What is Reddit's opinion of Anker USB C to HDMI Adapter (4K@60Hz), 310 USB-C Adapter (4K HDMI), Aluminum Portable USB C Adapter, for MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, Pixelbook, XPS, Galaxy, and More?

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I dont know much about the WD15, but if it has a thunderbolt 3 port, you can use a thunderbolt 3 to HDMI 2.0 adapter to get 60hz on the TV. Make sure to set the TV to a "PC" mode. Also can use the thunderbolt 3 on the 9550.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

I also have a 7,1 with a single W5700X and 3 monitors. Using the one hdmi provided and converted the other 2 hdmi’s with this. Works for me:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RNK314PVJ444HE3EZ87M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I don't suppose that you have a compatible phone? I'm thinking that using this adapter (the SIIG) and a power supply, with this adapter to your phone might give us a way to use the glasses with our phones without sucking the life out of our phone batteries. The supply to the SIIG could be a battery pack or a wall charger. Interesting possibilities if it works!

Anker is about the best as they come for aftermarket electronic accessory brands.

I have good experience using their similar USB-C (M) to HDMI (F) adapter for my P1 Gen 3 and [but more so] Samsung Galaxy S20 FE phone connected to my 9 years old makeshift monitor, a 46-inch Samsung HDTV.

• amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/

My desktop setup is a weird mix of old and new, partially because Windows doesn't support LDAC high-res audio codec, and I'm a sucker for wringing my moneys worth out of equipment until it no longer functions and can't be repaired.

I'm inclined to believe Windows 11 has a broken driver issue where it doesn't like outputting 16:10 resolution through USB-C / TB-to-DP (really old revision).

In that WARRKY cable listing, a reviewer, M. Graham, reported successful for his/her Macbook Pro and Dell U3011 monitor.

If you have buddy or classmate that rocks a similar generation laptop but is on Windows 10 or 8.1, test if the hubs and cable play nicely with their computer and your monitor.

I think I have the same exact monitor, and have had issues similar to what you describe. I was using a USB C docking thing to connect to HDMI and other things. It seemed to be resolved by getting a dedicated USB C to hdmi cord. This is the one i'm using now.

perhaps an adapter such as this one would help?

My laptop does charge via type C. So I could connect this to the port and plug the charger and HDMI cable on to this adapter? (the adapter says it does 4K @ 60Hz).

https://www.amazon.in/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=YCOQD3TZH1D&keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi&qid=1654151855&sprefix=usb+c+to%2Caps%2C246&sr=8-3

Can the USB-C end of a USB-C to HDMI adapter safely be plugged into a monitor without concern for the Switch?

I have one monitor, a Dell U2720Q (4K/60hz) that I want to use for three devices: a PC, a PS5, and a Switch OLED. The monitor has one DisplayPort (used for PC) and only one HDMI port (used for PS5). It does also have a USB-C port. If I were to get a USB-C to HDMI adapter such as this by Anker, could I plug the HDMI cord coming from the Switch dock into the adapter then plug the USB-C on the adapter into the monitor?

I know it’s unreliable to use unlicensed adapters plugged into the Switch’s USB-C port, but would this scenario work?

Anker USB C to HDMI Adapter (4K@60Hz), 310 USB-C Adapter (4K HDMI), Aluminum Portable USB C Adapter, for MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, Pixelbook, XPS, Galaxy, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_DV5YVBEM7HCQBJSMFEBM. Should work with most modern phones

OP, I’m driving a 34” Samsung ultrawide (3440x1440 @ 75 Hz) on my M1 MBA with this adapter: Anker USB C to HDMI Adapter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Adapters matter, this one specifically allowed me to drive above 1080p at above 60 Hz.

This should be an A+ comptia question. The G6 should support USB-C power/display. On G4 and lower models, the USB-C is for power only not display.

I use x2 Anker HDMI to USB-C adapters, with HDMI cables that plug into my microsoft surface Dock. I know you're using just a laptop, no dock. But I think you should be good to go.

Yup, the OWC has 3 Thunderbolt ports and you can plug in widely available USB-C to HDMI adapters like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/

If you decide to get a USB-C or Thunderbolt monitor, you can plug them in directly.

I tried to connect my Bike+ directly to tv using usb c to hdmi converter I use for my work laptop and was not able to get video working. Someone recommended I use an Anker usb c to hdmi converter and it works well.

The converter is Anker USB C to HDMI Adapter (4K@60Hz), 310 USB-C Adapter (4K HDMI) for sale on Amazon for $18.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_0K6ARYD888XKMHVN918H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Cool, it’s a USB-C. This adapter should do the trick, there are other options too.

Anker USB C to HDMI Adapter (4K@60Hz), 310 USB-C Adapter (4K HDMI), Aluminum Portable USB C Adapter, for MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, Pixelbook, XPS, Galaxy, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_W0KJTD88DBV6ARYPCZ7K

My Asus rog strix has a USBc port in the rear for display from gpu. HDMI will just do integrated I'm pretty sure. Get a usbc adapter if yours has the same.

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3RHWNAWNQP3CKF8F2VJ0

USB 3.0 to HDMI will almost certainly use displaylink and their drivers can be iffy at best on Linux especially if you have an Nvidia GPU. If you only have the onboard Intel GPU, that's your best shot with displaylink, I think I've read somewhere that they work decently together. Double check on that though, it's been a while since I've bothered with Displaylink.

I know you said a USBC dock would be too much but, there are options for just USBC to HDMI like this. Something like that might be more in your price range.

Yes that dock will work for your laptop, and will provide 2 additional HDMI ports capable of up to 1920x1080 @ 60fps. However keep this in mind, that dock uses DisplayLink, which uses its own built in virtual graphics card and not your RTX 3060. So they won't work well for gaming.

You will only be able to get true RTX graphics out of your built in screen and built in HDMI port. If you kept your current monitor plugged in directly to your laptop, and purchased an adapter like this, it would be a cheaper option to add an extra monitor (unless you're also wanting the other benefits of a dock), but even with one of these, your gaming performance would be best running only on the monitor plugged into the built in HDMI port and internal screen.

Been happy with my Anker adapter

Anker USB C to HDMI Adapter (4K@60Hz), PowerExpand+ Aluminum Portable USB C Adapter, for MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, Pixelbook, XPS, Galaxy, and More (Compatible with Thunderbolt 3 ports) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JDNKZE4SF8B67XNK6GPN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I don’t remember exactly what the reason is, but I think you have to get a specific type of converter. This is the one I bought, and it works fine with my SB3: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you. It looks like you have these ports:

1x USB-C 3.2 Gen 2 (support data transfer, Power Delivery and DisplayPort™ 1.2)

1x Thunderbolt 4 / USB4™ 40Gbps (support data transfer, Power Delivery 3.0 and DisplayPort 1.4)

1x Side docking connector (for mechanical docks like ThinkPad Ultra Docking Station)

HDMI1.4 should be enough for 2.5k monitor up to 75 Hz or so.

If you just need the HDMI port you might try:

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_R9Y1N0PXW3V27581GBCN

The Anker link you shared should also work! 🙂

You'll have to get a usb-c to hdmi adapter to connect the display to the docks hdmi port. One of these. I personally recommend this one because its anker brand, even their headphones and chargers are really nice. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FNDD99MZ3FMD8QV7BJZA

Anker makes one for about $15 that does 4k60. We use them at my work for dozens of computers and they work without issue.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=sr\_1\_1?dchild=1&keywords=type+c+to+hdmi+anker&qid=1627176994&sr=8-1

The anKer one looks perfect. Just what I needed. I have a few Anker products so trust their quality.

The one you sent isn't available but iv found this for just video https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_KQS3SJF81NM220DH7JCN

if you got USB C, then you're in good shape. This is a simple adapter for a second HDMI out, but Amazon also has other dongles that have additional USB ports or Ethernet jacks or whatever you're hankering for.

Can’t go wrong with Anker. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=anker+usb+c+to+hdmi&qid=1617480680&sr=8-3

Also if you want they have hub (PowerExpand 6-in-1) that adds a few things like standard USB and Ethernet.

That cable is from Apple so it's far more expensive than it needs to be. There are more affordable versions of that kind of cable on Amazon.

This dongle from Anker is rated for 4K at 60Hz. God bless!

instead of trying to find a site you could forgo the PS4 and directly watch through other means.

like the simplest is connecting your laptop to your TV, in case you don't have an HDMI port on your laptop you could use a USB-C to HDMI adapter.

I did, the main one that I was using is this one, which seems to be an active converter. I had seen discussions online about people not using active converters and knew this could be a problem, and decided to check and make sure. I also opted to use the Mini Displayport on my monitor instead of the HDMI port because I wanted as few conversions as possible.

This suggestion is purely based on specs listed on Amazon. I don’t have experience with it but it seems to meet your requirements.

Anker USB C to HDMI Adapter (4K@60Hz), PowerExpand+ Aluminum Portable USB C Adapter, for MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, Pixelbook, XPS, Galaxy, and More (Compatible with Thunderbolt 3 Ports) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_dlC_UMdXFbRQ67QHW

You just need a usb-c display adapter, something like this:

Anker USB C to HDMI Adapter, Aluminum Portable USB C Adapter, Supports 4K 60Hz, for MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, Pixelbook, XPS, Galaxy, and More [Compatible with Thunderbolt 3 ports] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6G3KFbT9P2MQJ

You can also get them with USB-A ports, card readers, etc, if you’d like a mini docking station type setup.

You answered the question with "via the HDMI port." There's some known issues with the HDMI port and the panel. If you have a USBC input on your monitor try that, if not try this.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

Any USB C to HDMI cable that supports USBC Alt mode will work. Do not use a docking station/usbc hub thing as it will not be running off the direct pins (USBCALT) but does some janky connection sharing.

Thanks. I found this one which isn't too expensive, and I'll probably end up getting it because it will be nice to have anyway.

tl;dr WD15 won't work for 4K 60Hz at all, look at USB-C to HDMI2.0 adapter or ~50$ USB-C-only dock with HDMI2.0 + USB2, or you will have to buy a TB3 dock (Dell TB16, Dell WD19TB 180w are compatible with 130w charging on your laptop).

Dell WD15 is 2 lanes for video USB-C-only dock; it will provide 50% of DP1.2 bandwidth + USB3, it doesn't even advertise HDMI2.0 (manual states HDMI1.4 - see here). Therefore, not enough for 4K 60Hz at all (HDMI or miniDP doesn't matter), only something like 2560x1440 60Hz or 4K 30Hz. The explanation why USB-C docks make you choose between half DP bandwidth + USB3 vs. full DP bandwidth + USB2 here. Oddly enough, the newer WD19 (not WD19TB) is also 2 lanes for video and won't be enough for 4K 60Hz on DP1.2/HBR2 machines like 9550.

You can use active USB-C to HDMI2.0 adapter, or if you need a dock - ~50$ USB-C-only dock with HDMI2.0 + USB2.

Thunderbolt 3 docks can provide 4K 60Hz + USB3 via a single TB3 cable. Still, they cost significantly more (Dell WD19TB is the current TB3 dock from Dell, but it's newer than your laptop, and Dell doesn't include 9550 in the current recommended list anymore; unofficially it should work, there is also an older dock with somewhat more complaints - Dell TB16).

You could try an adapter usb-c to hdmi

Great, all you’ll need is a USB-C to HDMI adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

You can also get a hub for a bit more money that adds some handy USB-A ports and a card reader:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Reader-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ

I bought this and it’s worked great. The tv I used apple fitness + with doesn’t have airplay so this has saved me from having to buy an Apple TV.

The LG is a sound device because it has a headphone output. That will get audio from the HDMI input. So thats why it reports to the Mac that it is an audio source (at least according to the manual there is a 3.5mm output: https://www.lg.com/uk/support/product/lg-E2250V-PN).

Ok, you are most likely having a bandwidth problem.

It sounds like you are using the Belkin hub to go from the USB-C port on the Mac, to both the HDMI output and the USB-A output for your 7-port USB hub with all your audio devices.

That Belkin hub is a 5Gbps USB only Hub. That means it is only doing 5Gbps total shared over all the interfaces on it. So the HDM is not taking advantage of Thunderbolt 3 or USB-C DisplayPort Alt Mode. So the HDMI bandwidth is going to be 4+ Gbps just for video, plus just USB overhead, by the time you plug in all your audio stuff, there isn't enough bandwidth.

Each of the ports on your Mac is capable of 40Gbps but the Belkin hub you are using is bottlenecking all your peripherals to 5Gbps, and that is not enough.

So get rid of the Belkin hub and split your devices over 2 ports.

Get a Thunderbolt3 to HDMI adaptor for the LG display. That will go into one USB-C port by itself. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z (Make sure whatever you get is Thunderbolt 3 compatible so it uses the GPU of the Macbook and not putting more pressure on the CPU for no reason)

Then get a USB-C to USB-A adaptor for the 7-Port hub you have. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/NIMASO-Adapter-Adaptor-Compatible-Pixel-Gray/dp/B07TJ38SDW/ (I suppose you could keep using the Belkin but it is bulky and I would go with a simpler adaptor without an HDMI port included)

That way all of your stuff is split to different ports. The LG will be on its own port and have its own bandwidth. All your audio devices will be on their own port and should have more than enough bandwidth .

Much cheaper than $40.

would I need an adapter that is specifically designed for DisplayLink or would something like this work?

>Chromebook (Acer 314)

There are a few variations of the 314 so I'll link to one of them (you should check your variant's specs):

https://www.acer.com/us-en/chromebooks/acer-chromebook-314-c934-c934t/pdp/NX.K06AA.001

and if you look at the tech. specs section, it has a line: "USB Type-C Detail" which states:

USB Type-C port: USB 3.2 Gen 2 (up to 10 Gbps), USB 3.2 Gen 1 (up to 5 Gbps), DisplayPort over USB-C, USB charging 5/9/15/20 V; 3 A, DC-in port 20 V; 45 W

here, the important part is the "DisplayPort over USB-C" (which is another way of saying "DP Alt Mode") which means it might be possible if you use an appropriate USB-C to HDMI adapter or cable such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

Now I don't have the machine nor this adapter so I cannot guarantee that it will work but the description of the adapter's requirements matches the chromebook's specs so hypothetically, it should work.

HTH.

Anker HDMI to USB c have worked for me.

Or just buy an ONN dongle from Walmart and cast your chromebook since they are android TV/cast capable.

Just get a USB-C to HDMI adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

May be able to use this. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

The way the new macbooks handle thunderbolt->hdmi causes some weirdness with HDCP that allows video and no audio on crestron gear. I've seen it with DM as well as NVX components. Switching over to [this](https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z) specific adapter seemed to be the quick fix for us, although most folks here use PCs and older Macs so not sure it's a forever fix. LMK if you get to the bottom of it

If it is something like this, then no, there is no way for it to supply power to your Deck.

If instead, it is something like this, then you can connect your charger to it and it will passthrough the power and charge your deck from the charger.

Whatever dock you have/get, it will most likely require a usb c charger to be attached. There is no point getting a higher wattage charger, as the Steam Deck is what determines the voltage and current that the charger will supply. The Steam Deck will only ask for 15v at 3A at max as far as I am aware. Most higher wattage chargers do so at 20v.

I got the book 2 pro 360. I'm fine without the HDMI port. I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details and a USB C hub with HDMI as well everything else far as cables are braided.

USB C to USB micro

USB C to USB B and so on.

If companies "still" cant embrace USB C and wont evolve from the type A port....cables are now making it easier to transition. It would be nice if everything was double sided though.

One would think its more convenient to have the ports built in themselves, but i hate stuff sticking out...Being in music production and having tons of external gear you get tired of having wires hanging out and tripping over them ruining ports because they bent lol. I hate hubs but its more safer and more practical for me. The book 2 will fall right on the floor if you trip on a cable because the weight wont keep it down.

If you want something unpowered, I have this:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

This is what I use for a powered hub:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerExpand-Delivery-Ethernet-Chromebook/dp/B07PPGWQ15

And I use a 3d printed case to make it a dock:

https://youtu.be/I2h2HknlQHw

Thanks for your reply. It's this one (Model Number: A8312): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

Since this works fine in windows side of my dual-boot, I know the port does support displayport/video out of that usb-c port.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=sr_1_3?crid=5C3E8AC5EBWT&keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi+anker&qid=1655377130&s=computers&sprefix=usb+c+to+hdmi+anker%2Ccomputers%2C75&sr=1-3

USB-C to HDMI

USB-C to HDMI adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/

Or a usb-c multi port hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZVKTP53/

4k60 on an external display works without a problem using this USB-C to HDMI adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

Get a type C to HDMI. Such as this one from Anker, which makes decent quality stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9PR7NP9C3Q54Y4HB5PAR

how do you know if it has pass through charging? i got it to work, i had one of these lying around.... dunno if it's passthrough charging though https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Update 4/21/22: Got my 25' long HDMI cable and USB-C to HDMI adapter Amazon: Anker adapter . (I decided to go too long w/ the cable instead of being too short) I plugged in one end of the HDMI cable into my HDMI 3 port where the Chromecast used to be. Plugged the other end of the HDMI cable into the Anker adapter, and plugged that into my computer (Windows). It played exactly what was on the TV, cursor and all. The screen on the computer had to be on, or there was no picture. Next I used the same adapter in my iPad Pro. When I stream from that from MLB.TV app At first I didn't think it would work, but it's working. The iPad screen is black (which I want, actually) but showing me the game on TV. I didn't have to use the streaming icon on the app, and there isn't one when I do it from the computer. I think a Roku stick or Chromecast would work also, I think the Chromecast I have is old. Thanks everybody for helping me solve my problem, and now I can watch the games on TV!

If both your monitors are USBC monitors, then get a Thunderbolt 4 / USB4 Hub. I recommend the Caldigit Element Hub. This will give you 3 extra USBC Ports that carry video. Keep in mind that ONLY a TB4 / USB4 can manage this. If you find a normal USBC hub with multiple USBC Ports, it will not carry video to the extra USBC ports.

More likely, you just need a USBC or Thunderbolt Dock or Hub with 2 HDMI or 2 Displayport outputs that is compatible with a Mac. Remember MST does not work on Macs.

With the Caldigit Element Hub, you will need USBC to HDMI/Displayport Adapters. This part can be tough, as it's not always easy to find adapters that work correctly. I've had good luck with Anker. If one port doesn't work, move it to the next port (The hub gives you 3 more TB4/USB4/USBC Ports).

Like I said though, if your monitors aren't USBC, it may be easier to simply buy a Thunderbolt 4 Dock, or if you can find one for cheap, a Thunderbolt 3 Dock. I recommend the Caldigit USBC Pro Dock. It can be hard to find, but it's usually $200. It has Displayport outputs, which is preferable. Although Caldigit did make the USBC HDMI Dock, which is the same as the Pro Dock only with HDMI 2.0 ports, it has HUGE compatibility issues with certain monitors. Likely due to the Displayport to HDMI 2.0 conversion that happens inside the dock. This is why the older USBC Pro Dock with Displayport output is better. It can still do Dual 4K @ 60hz, so the the HDMI 2.0 is basically useless and only causes problems, and you choose your own Displayport to HDMI converter and can swap out if there is a compatibility issue, with the HDMI dock, you are stuck with whatever Caldigit used inside.

Thunderbolt 3 - Alpine Ridge - Older, only works with Thunderbolt ($130 - $200)

Thunderbolt 3 - Titan Ridge - Newer, works with Thunderbolt or USBC (USBC Gets lower resolution and bandwidth) (Cal Digit USBC Pro Dock) ($200+)

Thunderbolt 4/USB4 - Newest - Works with Thunderbolt or USBC and also is capable of adding 3 total Thunderbolt/USB4 Ports. ALL USB4 Hubs/Docks support Thunderbolt. (Caldigit Element Hub) ($200 - $479)

Anker USB C to HDMI Adapter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

At least 60hz. Pretty sure I got 120hz with it and an 8k HDMI cable. Haven’t plugged it in for a bit though.

https://www.amazon.ae/gp/product/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=ox\_sc\_saved\_image\_2?smid=A2CEYXUGZ2IKQW&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=sr_1_3?crid=HFIVFCA7XOJL&keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi+adapter&qid=1647297663&sprefix=usb+c+to+hd%2Caps%2C247&sr=8-3

Ya. I would bet it’s that cable.

I’ve bought a lot of these adapters and then just and Amazon basics HDMI Cable

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

I don't really have any specific recommendations since I've never used one. A quick search gave me a lot of USB-C options and a lot less for regular old USB ports.

I would try https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z + https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099ZZ1YYV

 

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https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=sr_1_3?crid=21VAV4BP1KKTW&keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi+adapter&qid=1640755111&sprefix=usb+c+to+hdmi+adapt%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-3

You need some form of usb-c to hdmi adapter. Can also be usb-c to dvi, usb-c to vga, etc... or if its a very new monitor maybe even usb-c directly.

​

https://www.amazon.com.au/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Supports-Pixelbook/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=asc_df_B07THJGZ9Z/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341792422718&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13159031975466734496&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1000498&hvtargid=pla-828161338939&psc=1

​

Another option which I've just bought for my new M1 Mac is a hub. That way you get hdmi, ethernet and some extra usb 3.0 ports.

Here is an example:

https://www.amazon.com.au/Belkin-INC004btSGY-USB-C-Multiport-Dock/dp/B08PY4KLLT/ref=asc_df_B08PY4KLLT/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463538990523&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9639254053668119547&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1000498&hvtargid=pla-1157912748410&psc=1

Is you phone Android with a USB C port?

If so you could use a USB C HDMI adapter or hub. These will allow you to connect your phone directly to a TV HDMI port.

A hub is the best setup because you can charge your phone while playing media, also you would have the ability to play media from USB drives.

 

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https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

and then use HDMI cable...

I just added the monitor I am using to the thread. Dell S2415H connected via Anker USBC to HDMI adapter. and a Samsung C24F390 connected via HDMI with just a generic HDMI cable. Here is the link to the adapter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

You might be overthinking this. Just buy the monitor you want, and if you need to use a simple adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-DisplayPort-PowerExpand-Aluminum-Portable/dp/B08QV2FSKT

Could get a HDMI to USB-C adapter, assuming you already have a HDMI cable:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QH4F37NV3RCE5AHZ78G3

Samsung dex works with your phone, if you get a usb-c to hdmi adapter.. I like anker, but there's plenty of similar adapters from other brands.. you can plug it into the TV (hdmi) and your phone essentially becomes a desktop. You could use just your phone to operate it but it's limited and super annoying as your phone becomes a trackpad. If you have a Bluetooth mouse / keyboard it's reeeally awesome. Samsung dex has two modes though, the desktop and screen mirroring. If you just want to watch some Netflix or hulu from you phone on a TV, plug in the same way but tap the dex button again to screen mirror (these apps don't want to work properly in dex mode).

I don't bring a laptop, my use is primarily for Nintendo Switch and my Samsung s20 ultra. I have a flat hdmi I always bring, had a 1.5ft but found it too short. I have the 3.3ft now and it's a good length. I also bring an hdmi coupler just in case the place I'm staying has a weird TV setup and the 3ft one isn't long enough. It's come in handy a few times already, think wall mounted tvs. I just temporarily borrow another hdmi from the cable box or DVD player and extend mine. Depending on where I'm going I sometimes bring a flat ethernet cord (have a coupler for that too) since the switch isn't the best on wifi.

Max Resolution (HDMI) - 4096 x 2160@60Hz

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/211013/intel-iris-xe-max-graphics-96-eu/specifications.html

Anker USB C to HDMI Adapter (4K@60Hz), PowerExpand+ Aluminum Portable USB C Adapter, for MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, Pixelbook, XPS, Galaxy, and More (Compatible with Thunderbolt 3 ports) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_X2E5BP7GH4BHH4XVTB74

The new MBP requires like 87W charging or even more -- although I am aware the lowest models ship with a lower charger but that's just Apple nickel and diming you, for a $20 surcharge you get a 87W charger which is needed for fast charging.

The problem really is charging at such wattages. All the relatively cheap solutions , the Belkin Core, the JEYI Thunderdock Mini, the Wavlink wl-utd21 / wl-utd23 will only charge at 60W.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/313687827241 plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z to convert the downstream TB3 port to HDMI would be my choice.

I have the 2020 iPad Pro 11” A12Z. I just tested it out using an HDMI already connected to the TV connected to an HDMI to USB C adapter. I’m no expert, but I didn’t notice lag. It felt responsive.

This is the adapter I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

And this is the Bluetooth controller I used: https://www.amazon.com/8Bitdo-Sn30-Pro-Bluetooth-Gamepad-mac/dp/B07T8JKVNT/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=8bitdo+pro%2B&qid=1631390780&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_CK08MM16H3K6D6JQ59P2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I need?

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=sr\_1\_3?dchild=1&keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi&qid=1627921411&sr=8-3

These are the few I was trying to choose between:

Option 1

Option 2

Option 3

Also, I imagine my Mac plugged in to the wall at the same time as using this. That’s okay, right? Lol. I’m sorry.

I'll be using this connected to my TV (4K Oled) and my 1080p 60Hz monitors. Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Usb+C+to+Hdmi&qid=1625168483&s=electronics&sr=1-3

None of my devices have a displayport, only an HDMI.

I have a USB Hub instead of a USB C hub because I already owned one

​

Thanks!

Both of those support simultaneous display output from their HDMI + USB-C ports, although the 144Hz refresh rate might not be reachable (would need to double check). I'd recommend a regular HDMI (preferably HDMI 2.0) cable to the HDMI port, and a HDMI USB-C adapter for the second monitor, such as this one or if you want some added ports, this one.

This is what I use for my ThinkPad T480s - my 1440p 120Hz monitor only works at 1080p120 so it depends on the laptop and cables (typically, higher HDMI version = higher bandwidth = more data transfer rate = higher resolution or refresh rate)

Try the display with another device. Assuming that works, pick up a simple USB-C to HDMI adapter and try that.

Fancier options - https://dancharblog.wordpress.com/2021/02/05/usb4-tb4-docks/, can be combined with USB-C to HDMI2.0 adapters or cables if needed. (e.g., https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z)

USB-C-only docks exist (not Thunderbolt) and can support 4K 60Hz via HDMI2.0 - look at the first table in https://dancharblog.wordpress.com/2021/01/03/4k60-monitor-plus-usb-devices-from-single-usb-c-laptop-port/. As the other poster noted, it's a more limited tech, but somewhat cheaper at least for "portable" docks with power pass-through (e.g., Anker 8-in-1 with single HDMI out is ~$60, while CalDigit Element is more like ~150$; I would recheck reviews on specific products vs. M1) Older USB-C-only docks won't handle more than 4K 30Hz, though, so watch out.

Here is the high end cable solution that worked

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/

$10.99, has worked flawlessly with my second monitor (Mac Mini, so only one HDMI port) for several months.

I've gotten it to work with my Rift *sometimes*, but I can't figure out a set of steps that reliably works. You definitely need to go into the Windows Graphics settings and assign all the Oculus exe's to "performance" mode -- there are four or five of them. I followed the steps in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6x-RQ7ZBsQ. And you need to have iGPU mode turned Off in Armoury Crate.

I'm using this Anker usb-c to hdmi 4k/60hz adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z. I've tried other adapters, including Anker's 7-in-1 Hub, and they're unusable -- when I get a signal through them, it's intermittent -- the headset display just flickers on-and-off. You also need a usb-C to usb-A adapter, since the Rift setup requires 3 usb-a ports.

Once the base stations and the headset are plugged in, half the time Windows gives me warnings that some USB peripheral isn't working. The other half the time Oculus says that the headset needs to be plugged into a USB 3 port. The fix for this seems to be going into device manager and uninstalling both the USB Root Hubs (or Host controllers -- not sure if it makes a difference), then restarting so they get recognized and the drivers installed again. That works for a little while, but eventually Windows will start warning about the usb peripherals again. I can't figure out a permanent fix.

Sometimes the HMD display is dark (which you're seeing) and sometimes the Oculus software says that the headset's HDMI cable isn't connected. Either might occur independently, or both together. The suggested solution is to go into Device Manager->Display Adapters and Disable the AMD Radeon graphics adapter. When I do this, the laptop display blinks off for a moment, and after it comes back, the brightness fluctuates continually. I haven't found a fix for this anywhere, other than to re-enable the AMD iGPU again in Device Manager. But before you do that, start up the Oculus software again -- and, with luck, the Rift's screen will be on and you can use your headset.

At that point you should be able to re-enable the iGPU and your HMD should keep working. Maybe. Sometimes the HMD won't start working until after you re-enable the iGPU. And sometimes you need to switch the AMD adaptor off and on in Device Manager a few times before the Rift starts working. And sometimes you need to do a restart in there, too.

Like, I said, I can't find any rhyme or reason to it. When it works, it works great. But it seems very temperamental and unreliable. It's a bummer because in all other respects, as you probably know, this is an awesome computer. But, like you, I need a machine for VR dev, and it's got to reliably work without a lot of fiddling. So I think mine is going back tomorrow.

If anyone out there has figured out a reliable solution to this, please share it!

Here is the high priced hub that ended up working well..

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Adapters USB-C->HDMI can be passive or active in terms of conversion to HDMI as well. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z is active.

Thunderbolt 3 is multi-function port. Since it supports USB-C with DisplayPort alt mode a simply adapter will do the job: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/

They’re only basic HD monitors which is good enough for what I do, so use this cheap usb c to hdmi

I bought the Anker USB C to HDMI dongle and used a normal HDMI cable. That seems to have resolved the issue

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

You do not want a display port to HDMI adapter. What you need is a USB-C to HDMI adapter. Something like this should work: Anker USBC-HDMI

But you can buy a separate 4K/60Hz HDMI out by Anker for £17.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=sr_1_27?dchild=1&keywords=anker+usb+c+hdmi+out&qid=1608424918&sr=8-27

In theory, yes. But 120Hz requires the newest firmware on G9 allegedly, and there is at least one case with a different Dell laptop where it didn't work in the end anyway (for unknown reason) - https://www.reddit.com/r/UsbCHardware/comments/k35eqw/usbc_docking_station_for_samsung_odyssey_g9_at/. PBP appears to be temperamental... So your mileage may vary.

For your laptop - USB-C to HDMI2.0 active adapter is required (like https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z), though. If you buy a passive adapter by mistake or use the laptop's HDMI port - HDMI1.4 will not be enough.

This may get tricky, MB 12" doesn't officially support more than 4K 30Hz. In theory, Intel iGPU can do 4K 60Hz and should have worked via most USB-C DisplayPort 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapters (usually marked with 4K 60Hz, like example for Amazon US). But I found some reports that it requires software hacks to work with MB 12" and not every adapter worked for an unknown reason, unfortunately. I don't have MB 12" to test... An official adapter should support 4K 30Hz, but the recent support page for AV adapter doesn't mention MacBook 12" (so also proceed with caution unless someone can test it).

Anker USB C to HDMI Adapter, Aluminum Portable USB C Adapter, Supports 4K 60Hz

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know this is a little old, but can you explain your setup? I think I have all the same as you, a USB-C to HDMI on the left side (PD port), the USB 3 on the right side, and the 2 cameras connected to a USB-C hub with 3.0 ports.

I set all of SteamVR and Oculus to use the NVIDIA processor, but I still don't get any video on the headset. Are there specific processes that should only be on the dGPU and others on the iGPU?

I'm trying to use either of these adapters:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X8ZLYLR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Side note: I can play VR fine when I use my fiance's Apple USB-C 3 port hub for his Macbook. It has HDMI, USB-C with power, and USB 3.0... I can play perfectly fine with that, but all other USB-C to HDMI adapters I've used have this problem.

Deal link: Amazon

Coupon code: AKC2HDMI

^^Note: ^^The ^^deal ^^may ^^have ^^expired ^^by ^^the ^^time ^^you ^^see ^^this ^^post.

You need a Thunderbolt 3 to HDMI adapter. The official Apple one can be found here. But other cheaper options can be found on Amazon and other places. Example.

Deal link: Amazon

Coupon code: AKC2HDMI

Look up pretty much any on Amazon that work with a MacBook pro. This was the exact solution I used, but I got a hub instead of just the adaptor for more ports, including a charging port.

Link to one I used, but don't own:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_rKnSEbDX55ZF4

Link to the one I own (currently way more expensive than I paid, I'd personally look at another adapter.) :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J62G3JG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share