What is Reddit's opinion of
Anker USB C Cable, PowerLine USB 3.0 to USB C Charger Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, Oculus Quest, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10 (Black)?
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77 reviews of this product found across Reddit:
Yeap, so far you are correct. I swapped the old Anker USB cable to a new one with better specs and so far so good. Less wiggle on the cable connected to the car port. Thank you for your suggestions! I'll check out AAWireless next time. For reference, here's the cable I got, https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not 100% sure what your situation is. You can use the cable that came with your phone or you can buy a new USB type C cable. I'd recommend getting a new one.
A cable doesn't come with this charger. I'm not really aware of many chargers (either car or AC) that do come with cables, but I wouldn't use them anyway (they're often garbage). If you need a recommendation, I've been using these pretty much exclusively for a little over a year: Amazon Link
Just get a usb a to usb C cable instead, and avoid the adapter all together. The anker powerline is a good option (get the 6ft version if you're interested, it's only $1 more): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=twister_B07BS292KR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I went through so many cables, many that were intermittent out of the box until I read that Android auto requires the higher transfer rate spec cables. I bought an Android auto recommended cable and it's been working for a couple of months now without a single drop. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01A6F3WHG
I had the exact issue you mentioned and replaced my cable with a high data transfer cable and never had a problem again
Anker USB C Cable, Powerline USB 3.0 to USB C Charger Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, Oculus Quest, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10 (Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_M0SA59PFQR304TC1ATP1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The most reliable cable I've found is this fancy Anker one with the 56k ohm resistor.
Anker USB C Cable, PowerLine USB 3.0 to USB C Charger Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, Oculus Quest, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10 (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_CZZZ6019KRSQWWK8ZJ9P?psc=1
It's pricey but given me no issues :)
Congrats! Welcome to the club! A beautiful ride indeed. Have the same model in Mauna Red.
You're gonna love Sport and Sport + mode. Even Comfort mode gives great power delivery.
You may run into issues using Android Auto or Apple Carplay though. Like others here have mentioned the connection repeatedly drops sometimes but with the right cable it should be fine. I've been using this oneAnker Cable and it works great.
Now i remember, i had to make sure it was USB 3.0
I got this one Anker USB C Cable, PowerLine USB 3.0 to USB C Charger Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, Oculus Quest, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10 (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ZWFZVX91MAK0PMMRGF85?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
In my experience, it's picky about cables. I'm not familiar with the one you posted but in theory, if it's USB3 it should work. I have also heard this one works, but I don't have any personal experience with either.
If I had to guess, the usb-c to usb-a cable you used was for power only. Not data, if you can get one with data support that’ll work. Anker USB C Cable, PowerLine USB 3.0 to USB C Charger Cable (3ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F367WFZSEHFY7VBTCRZC?psc=1
First 2 weeks with this.
It's honestly a lot better than I expected, I still have the original factory speakers and tweeters in my car, and this unit makes them sound brand new, and also makes it sound like I have a subwoofer in my car which I definitely don't.
I was worried about connection issues because so many people said the Android Auto connection was buggy, but paired with this USB A to USB C cable, it works flawlessly.
The in car phone and mic also work perfectly and everything is crystal clear.
Basically everything functions 100% as it should, and I really enjoy how simple and clean this unit is.
No big ugly chrome buttons, no super hype wow like settings that aren't really useful, and the entire user interface is minimalistic which I enjoy.
So far it's a 10/10
Had issues getting mine to connect at all. Changed the cable and bingo now connecting and able to configure it. Got it from Amazon
Do you have a USB-C port on the computer? If so, use that. It'll be a port on it the same shape as the cable that comes with your Oculus Quest 2.
If you don't, buy this, or a similar cable from Anker (select appropriate length): https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01A6F3WHG
Just use a USB-C to USB-A cable like this works with every USB-C device I've seen so far.
I have heard that people trying it had to plug into different USB ports to find one that worked. Make sure it is a usb c 3.0 or above. Most C cables out in the wild are not. Here is one that oculus recommends. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Lwh1DbGJ6AQNF
No one is talking about SLI. I'm DIRECTLY talking about multiple, different GPUs. My own computer has a Fury X and a 7770 in it. What happens when a display needs to roll over to the 7770? How do I control it if we use only ambiguous USB-C cables for video? Right now I just plug my monitors into the cards I want them to get powered by. A USB-C only future means this cannot work.
A USB 3.1 cable is still USB A. this is a USB A to C cable. IT doesn't matter what kind of backpedaling you do. The end result is you don't know what you're talking about.
Only absolute idiots have had issues with that. You are aware that the ports don't change. and it's a very small task to memorize which side to place the solid side on?
I'm not saying it has anything to do with the A connector. I'm saying you're an idiot to think only USB C cables can provide power. And nice job ignoring your statement about the Pis and Adrinos.
That's a newer cable that I don't yet see reviews for. Note: I haven't scoured some available resources, and probably won't tonight.
If you want to save a few bucks and don't care about the data transfer speeds, I present this. Approved by Nathan K.
ah, I see what you're asking for.
what about just buying a USB A -> USB C cable? the USB A side will plug into the battery, and USB C into your phone.
Ok, so the wall charger is Samsung's Quick Charge. That's a no go.
Adapter is good. Top review is from Benson. He's half of the dynamic testing duo, though it seems Nathan is the only one still doing it. Either way, good choice.
The cable is iffy. They say all the right things, but I don't see a Nekteck A to C on the certified list. It could be acceptable.
This is the A to C I got, which has been tested. You'll note the description for both cable reference the 56k resister - that's a key to being problem free.
You just need a cable like this. But your old power pack probably doesn't have sufficient capacity or output for the Switch. The 2.4A output of this pack is just enough to simultaneously charge and play the Switch.
USB Type C Cable, Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Galaxy S8, S8+, the new MacBook, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, LG V20 G5, HTC 10 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ufsEzbTNFZ6RQ
Oh hey thanks!
Any recommendations on the cables? This Usb-c doesn't really make much sense to me
Hm. I'm wondering if it could be the cable then. This is the one I am using. I do recall seeing some reviews on some USB-A to USB-C cables specifically stating that they worked poorly with the switch.
All I can tell you is that my anker cable does indeed quick charge my HTC 10, but that's a different phone. I don't see why it shouldn't work on the S8 though.
I think USB A to C is fine. I know that I have A to C cables that will quick charge my phone, but I've not put a meter on them to actually see what the draw is. As long as it is a quality cable it should be fine. Benson Leung has recommended this one from Anker. He's kind of the go to guy in the Android community for cable reviews.
Saw this as a lightning deal for 5 bucks: https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=gbps_tit_s-3_bb19_93cdab9a?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&pf_rd_p=41fd713f-6bfe-4299-a021-d2b94872bb19&pf_rd_s=slot-3&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_i=gb_main&pf_... Seems like a good cable to throw in your small case for usb charging? What do you guys think?
anker has some nice usb 3.0 USB-C cables that can charge as quickly as Snail charging can do: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01A6F3WHG
They also have a braided version that is super heavy duty, if you are rough on you cables.
I word of warning regarding Anker cables, the one I've linked below came highly recommended on this sub but the USB-C end of it doesn't stay plugged into my phone. It doesn't fit right and slips out constantly. I haven't had any similar issues with other USB-C cables.
Yes, its a USB-C to USB 3.0 anker cable that has velcro.
I purchased it from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Awesome, thanks for the 411!
Edit: any others from say Amazon or Best Buy? I'm not required to get one at Target. Perhaps this one?
THIS IS HOW I SOLVED IT:
I had the same problem with Galaxy S22 Ultra and 2017 Chevrolet Tahoe - It simply wouldn't start Android Auto, but I found the culprit(s) and solved it, see below.
Explanation: It seems that there may be more than one reason why Audroid Auto suddenly doesn't start of have other problems with Galaxy S22 family phones. After some testing, it seems that it could be (mostly) cable compatibility (they use different pins to wake up Android Auto) and/or software version support.
SO THIS IS HOW I SOLVED IT:
1. I updated Android Auto to the latest version using APK Mirror. You can find all releases, including beta versions, different hardware and even daily updates at:
https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/android-auto
In my case the latest beta release for ARM is at: https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/android-auto/android-auto-7-8-1223-release/android-auto-7-8-122303-release-daily-android-apk-download
(Notice that you may be asked toallow the phone to accept APK file installation from Chrome - allow it).
2. I replaced the cable and tried two other new cables ordered on Amazon, both worked:
Cable 1. ANKER POWERLINE 3.0
(on amazon.ca: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1)
Cable 2. AINOPE 3.1A This one is designed for in car use, with a right-angle connection.
(on Amazon.ca: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09G2BMWTG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
HOPE THAT HELPS EVERYONE!!
THIS IS HOW I SOLVED IT:
I had the same problem with Galaxy S22 Ultra and 2017 Chevrolet Tahoe - It simply wouldn't start Android Auto, but I found the culprit(s) and solved it, see below.
Explanation: It seems that there may be more than one reason why Audroid Auto suddenly doesn't start of have other problems with Galaxy S22 family phones. After some testing, it seems that it could be (mostly) cable compatibility (they use different pins to wake up Android Auto) and/or software version support.
SO THIS IS HOW I SOLVED IT:
1. I updated Android Auto to the latest version using APK Mirror. You can find all releases, including beta versions, different hardware and even daily updates at:
https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/android-auto
In my case the latest beta release for ARM is at: https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/android-auto/android-auto-7-8-1223-release/android-auto-7-8-122303-release-daily-android-apk-download
(Notice that you may be asked toallow the phone to accept APK file installation from Chrome - allow it).
2. I replaced the cable and tried two other new cables ordered on Amazon, both worked:
Cable 1. ANKER POWERLINE 3.0
(on amazon.ca: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1)
Cable 2. AINOPE 3.1A This one is designed for in car use, with a right-angle connection.
(on Amazon.ca: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09G2BMWTG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
HOPE THAT HELPS EVERYONE!!
THIS IS HOW I SOLVED IT:
I had the same problem with Galaxy S22 Ultra and 2017 Chevrolet Tahoe - It simply wouldn't start Android Auto, but I found the culprit(s) and solved it, see below.
Explanation: It seems that there may be more than one reason why Audroid Auto suddenly doesn't start of have other problems with Galaxy S22 family phones. After some testing, it seems that it could be (mostly) cable compatibility (they use different pins to wake up Android Auto) and/or software version support.
SO THIS IS HOW I SOLVED IT:
1. I updated Android Auto to the latest version using APK Mirror. You can find all releases, including beta versions, different hardware and even daily updates at:
https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/android-auto
In my case the latest beta release for ARM is at: https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/android-auto/android-auto-7-8-1223-release/android-auto-7-8-122303-release-daily-android-apk-download
(Notice that you may be asked toallow the phone to accept APK file installation from Chrome - allow it).
2. I replaced the cable and tried two other new cables ordered on Amazon, both worked:
Cable 1. ANKER POWERLINE 3.0
(on amazon.ca: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1)
Cable 2. AINOPE 3.1A This one is designed for in car use, with a right-angle connection.
(on Amazon.ca: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09G2BMWTG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
HOPE THAT HELPS EVERYONE!!
THIS IS HOW I SOLVED IT:
I had the same problem with Galaxy S22 Ultra and 2017 Chevrolet Tahoe - It simply wouldn't start Android Auto, but I found the culprit(s) and solved it, see below.
Explanation: It seems that there may be more than one reason why Audroid Auto suddenly doesn't start of have other problems with Galaxy S22 family phones. After some testing, it seems that it could be (mostly) cable compatibility (they use different pins to wake up Android Auto) and/or software version support.
SO THIS IS HOW I SOLVED IT:
1. I updated Android Auto to the latest version using APK Mirror. You can find all releases, including beta versions, different hardware and even daily updates at:
https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/android-auto
In my case the latest beta release for ARM is at: https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/android-auto/android-auto-7-8-1223-release/android-auto-7-8-122303-release-daily-android-apk-download
(Notice that you may be asked toallow the phone to accept APK file installation from Chrome - allow it).
2. I replaced the cable and tried two other new cables ordered on Amazon, both worked:
Cable 1. ANKER POWERLINE 3.0
(on amazon.ca: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1)
Cable 2. AINOPE 3.1A This one is designed for in car use, with a right-angle connection.
(on Amazon.ca: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09G2BMWTG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
HOPE THAT HELPS EVERYONE!!
THIS IS HOW I SOLVED IT:
I had the same problem with Galaxy S22 Ultra and 2017 Chevrolet Tahoe - It simply wouldn't start Android Auto, but I found the culprit(s) and solved it, see below.
Explanation: It seems that there may be more than one reason why Audroid Auto suddenly doesn't start of have other problems with Galaxy S22 family phones. After some testing, it seems that it could be (mostly) cable compatibility (they use different pins to wake up Android Auto) and/or software version support.
SO THIS IS HOW I SOLVED IT:
1. I updated Android Auto to the latest version using APK Mirror. You can find all releases, including beta versions, different hardware and even daily updates at:
https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/android-auto
In my case the latest beta release for ARM is at: https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/android-auto/android-auto-7-8-1223-release/android-auto-7-8-122303-release-daily-android-apk-download
(Notice that you may be asked toallow the phone to accept APK file installation from Chrome - allow it).
2. I replaced the cable and tried two other new cables ordered on Amazon, both worked:
Cable 1. ANKER POWERLINE 3.0
(on amazon.ca: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1)
Cable 2. AINOPE 3.1A This one is designed for in car use, with a right-angle connection.
(on Amazon.ca: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09G2BMWTG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o09\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
HOPE THAT HELPS EVERYONE!!
Nah i meant a usb-c to usb-a cable
Anker USB C Cable, PowerLine USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This one works beautifully so far. Gonna see how it holds up after a month
Make sure it's USB 3.0. i got this one and it has worked well.
Make sure.you get a cable that does USB 3.0. this is the one that's worked well for me
Make sure it's USB 3.0
This is the one i got. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ZWFZVX91MAK0PMMRGF85?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used this cable:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor-Devices-Black/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=Anker%2BPowerLine%2BUSB-C%2Bto%2BUSB%2B3.1&qid=1633252394&s=electronics&sr=1-10&th=1
In conjunction with this adapter to change the usb A to C:
https://www.vonmaehlen.com/en/allroundo
It's a little hit or miss sometimes but it works a good 80% of the time.
Option 1: Buy a different case that has front panel USB-C. Examples include the Corsair 4000D Airflow and the beQuiet! Pure Base 500DX
Option 2: Buy a USB-A to USB-C cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG/
Option 3: This really isn't an ideal option, but if you absolutely love the 400A, and don't want anything else. You can buy one of the these and cut/mod the case to install it somewhere: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0755DDD9B
I've been using this one since October and it's perfect if you're looking for USB A to USB C
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_MDF4MSCQY0TS8YF3JAGH
Have you tried the Anker cable?
Works flawlessly with my s20 ultra and wives 3xl
I know you don't think it could possibly be the cord, but I have a strong suspicion you should just try a new USB cord from Amazon. Get something high quality and super short. Mine constantly disconnected like the way you described and swapping out the cord for this one fixed that issue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG. I have a whole host of other issues with Android Auto, but I think those could be my 2017 Bolt Infotainment unit acting up.
Here are my 2 cents. 3 feet $8.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 connected to 16.4 feet $20.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can you order through Amazon? Anker makes great cables -
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01A6F3WHG/
It supports data transfer. For similar products, look for data synch support in the descriptions.
The USB-A to USB-C adapters won't let the full 3A power supply to keep the Quest charged while using Link. As well as the USB-A port only puts out 900mA to begin with.
The recommended Anker cable works, and a powered USB cable will make up the power delivery.
https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01A6F3WHG
https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B00DMFB5OK
How about the LG 34UC80-B and get this cable
I have tried a few different cables. I use this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hXvzCb5YN80AS
I have the Pioneer AVH-2330NEX and AVH-4200NEX. Was getting the black screen, that it cannot connect via USB, and change out to this cable, and haven't had any problems since, were you seeing the same thing? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG
Here’s the one I use. Only issue so far has been I sometimes need to reinstall the driver.
I actually had an opposite issue. I have '18 Kia Sportage and with Android Oreo 8.1 I couldn't get it to work with Android Auto. As soon as I flashed Android P Beta, everything started working.
Make sure you use recommended USB-A to USB-C cables, like the Anker or Amazon Basics. I use Anker one most of the time, but Amazon Basics cable works just as well.
That cable makes me question things as it has the square shaped ended.
Instead of spending $5.49 got with this $6.99 cable from Anker which is a most reputable brand with known good cables.
USB Type C Cable, Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable (3ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Spec wise it is safe for the Switch, but slow. You'll need to get a USB-A to USB-C cable. I doubt it'll work for your laptop, the output is too low.
For both a Switch and laptop you really need a USB-C power bank. RAVPower 20100 is great value and much better recharge speed, though still slow for a laptop. RAVPower 26800 PD will charge the Switch as fast as its included AC adapter and will handle the laptop better, though still not as good as the laptop's power adapter.
This would rate as Good Enough for the Nintendo Switch. Capacity will recharge a Switch at least 4 times. Fair price for rating, good price for capacity. Don't forget to buy a USB-A to USB-C cable.
Stick in a cable like this and hope for the best?
Did I fuck up getting this power supply? It was in that euro article and they said they got another six hours, but I got it and realized it's regular usb only. SO I have to get a cable that is old usb to usb c.
I know this won't charge the fastest but will it still work okay?
Power supply here
USB C Cable here
Use anker there cables never break and they have a 6 month warranty. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488818937&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+usb+c+cable
Yes version 3 is for charging. I'm using the Anker PowerLine
29W is the Type-C MacBook. Doing one quick Google would tell you the wattage of Type C connectors is rated at 100W.
Anker is a trustworthy branch with a 7 dollar primed Type-C to Type-A adapter
And a decently priced Aukey dongle for $31.99 primed, with fairly positive reviews, the lack of HDMI 2.0 doesn't make a difference since the Switch doesn't output in 4k60.
And this isn't even to say that people wouldn't already have these cables if they already own one of these newer devices. There's no point in being content with Nintendo butchering a standard.
Benson Leung approved Type-C cables for the Germans of you https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=twister_B01EN64QBA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm looking for a yes or no answer...am I safe charging the Switch with this combo?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-20100-Capacity-Technology/dp/B00X5RV14Y
I've got one of each of these cables -
A to C 3.0 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
C to C 3.1 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E4NPPGW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Anker ones seem safe and good quality. I ordered this one (6ft) for my OP3 and use it daily: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook-Black/dp/B01A6F3WHG.
I'm not sure but I bought this
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Is this safe?
Could you let me know if the anker one you purchased works with the fast charge? I purchased this one and it did not support the quick charge.
>More so if I'm out and need a charge. 5w is better then nothing. All I need is a small USB a to USB c cable then.
Anker it is.
TBH, get a decent portable charger, they cost $10-12 for decent ones by Anker and will charge your phone for so much faster in your pocket.
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