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Anmbest Constant Current CC CV Buck Converter Module DC 6-40V to 1.2-36V 20A 300W Adjustable Step Down Voltage Regulator Power Supply Module with Short Circuit Protection Function?
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Anmbest Constant Current CC CV Buck Converter Module DC 6-40V to 1.2-36V 20A 300W Adjustable Step Down Voltage Regulator Power Supply Module with Short Circuit Protection Function https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R832BRX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QFCSJTZAQF8TNKXRQ2QQ
fb marketplace has lots of milwaukee m18 connectors with wires cominf off of then grab a multimeter and find out which dial on the dc-dc converter controls output voltage until its between 12-14 volts, and the dial that doesnt ibfluebce volts crank it up...should have reliable 12v off of a m18 battery
non digital one, 300 W constant current or adjustable voltage. I have shorted this converter and reverse polarity this one, and it does not burn out. I have bought other digital buck converters (2 of them), burned out two of them because they have no reverse polarity protection or short protection.
like this one on Amazon
Those buck converters the other guy posted are what you want then.
Solder the leads from the charger into the "input" side, use a volt-meter and the "voltage adjust button" to set the output side to something between 5-7v then connect the load/device to the output.
Actually, I think this converter would be better for a beginner (no soldering involved). Just be very very gentile with the screw terminals, reviews state they're not secured the best.
You mean like a regulating DC buck converter as such?
Because I also have different chem batteries at different capacities and can't hook them in series, only parallel. BUT, with a dc-dc regulator... how to complete a series setup? -If the regulator must connect its two leads to a single battery.
OR you mean the DC regulator leads go in the middle of the series? (neg to next battery, pos. to to previous battery. yeah?
You mean like a regulating DC buck converter as such?
Because I also have different chem batteries at different capacities and can't hook them in series, only parallel. BUT, with a dc-dc regulator... how to complete a series setup? -If the regulator must connect its two leads to a single battery.
OR you mean the DC regulator leads go in the middle of the series? (neg to next battery, pos. to to previous battery. yeah?
Thanks mate.
For the video I used direct connection to a 5V source from a voltage regulator:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R832BRX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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But for the actual design I am using a 4 channel relay that can controls the voltage to the mesh with PWM controlled from the RPi. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KTEN3TM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The code to run the thing is in python and is a mess right now. I had to come up with a way to detect inhale and exhale cycles so that the mesh is only on during inhalations. I did this with a barometric sensor inside the face mask.
As for the box mod version I think using a 100w box should be able to provide the power for a single mesh. As I said the only issue would be the threaded connection into the box. I do not know if there is good way of accessing the positive and negative connectors in a box (Aegis) without having to screw a RDA in to it.
I've seen people do it with something like this:
My robot is designed to run on a Lipo battery that can supply between 11 and 30 volts. Inside the robot is a 300 Watt DC/DC power supply with a screwdriver adjustable output voltage. Buy these on Amazon for $12. There is also a small one that supplies 5 volts for the computer (Raspberry Pi4) So eventually there is some battery inside. I have serval batteries that will fit that I bought already for use with quadcopter drones.
But for now I have an old PC power supply, an ATX type. I cut off all the wires and installed an XT60 plug, the same plug I use on all my batteries. Computer power supplies can supply 20+ amps at 12 volts. I put a 20A fuse on before the XT60 plug, and this plugs into a 30 foot extension cordthat has XT60 on each end. The extension cord plugs into where the battery will go.
Assuming all the servos will go into worst-case stall all at the same time is too conservative. It never happens BTW, the DC/DC supply has a screwdriver adjustable current limit and I set it to about 12 or 15 amps. and I rus the servos at 6.0 volts.
Assuming all the servos will go into worst case stall all at the same time is too conservative. It never happens
The bigger problem is burning up the servos. A software error or mechanical jam kills the servo. The cause os always the MOSFET inside the servo. They melt and burn the PCB but the motor is still good. I can re-porpose my dead servoes as gear motors.
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a MUCH better option would be serial bus servos. There are now some low-cost serial bus servos and I will be buying a few to learn how to use them. Dynamixel would work too but they are expensive and my robot needs 12 of them. These Chinese serial bus servos cost under $20 each.
This this is power suplly that is inside the robot. They work very well. It does not even get warm.
amazon.com/Anmbest-Converter-Adjustable-Regulator-Protection...
I put this in
Can handle 20amps. They make 30+amp ones as well.
Might wanna get something like this to control the motor voltage a bit.
Like this?
Anmbest Constant Current CC CV Buck Converter Module DC 6-40V to 1.2-36V 20A 300W Adjustable Step Down Voltage Regulator Power Supply Module with Short Circuit Protection Function https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R832BRX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NA1S6NQEVQT9Z75VYGFV
Diymore 2pcs 20A 300W CC CV Step Down Module Adjustable DC 6-40V to 1.2-36V Voltage Regulator Buck Converter Constant Current Power Supply Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y7YB14L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0MKAHG6S6AC3KA6KSTFZ
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