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ANNIMOS 20KG Digital Servo High Torque Full Metal Gear Waterproof for RC Model DIY, DS3218MG,Control Angle 270° Red?
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Cheap. Effective. 25 tooth. Not exactly race material with stupid low latency or something but strong and reliable.
So now you should source a replacement servo. If its a 3 wire servo, I like the 20kg specials that Amazon/eBay seem to sell,for 20ish dollars. Metal geared and waterproof.. That will help this issue from surfacing again
Flysky FS- GT5 is what I use for reciver/transmitter. There are cheaper Flysky transmitters but I wanted to be able to run many RCs with one transmitter.
For servo I used this one it's one of the best cheap servos. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CNKQX4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hi guys, first time using a raspberry pi.
I am trying to get the correct jumper leads connected with the servo motor but the guides I have read on the internet are conflicting in saying which place is the correct spot to connect to.
This is the servo motor I bought-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CNKQX4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Could you tell me where to connect them? Thank you!
Yeah, that’ll happen without the servo saver. Let me know if you need a recommendation for a new one. Here’s a link to the servo that I’ve used a bunch. The only times I’m had one fail is without a saver on it 🤷🏻♂️😂
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HT6SJBMZTCFX5F2YPFP2
Okay. It's 25 tooth and it is plastic. So one is good the second is bad. Look up this amazon ones. You should be able to reuse your servo saver. The plastic gear is probably what is breaking.
It's not exactly 'performance' like super fast or anything but it's strong and pretty tough. I have them in 2 4WD vehicles. Zero complaints but I am not a racer or anything.
I bought my t02r about three years ago, It was also my first build kit and it is really simple to put together. Unlike the standard tt02 the tt02r does come with ball bearings so no need to purchase them in addition to the kit. You can fit any standard size servo like a traxxas 2075 or something like this : Annimos Digital servo . The fsgr3e willl fit, I ran this reciever for years with my GT3C until I switched to a GT5 radio.
Rebuilding truck after sitting for 10+ years. Will this servo work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_i_9K6GFbA4VRED1 Rebuilding diffs, rebuilding shocks. Buying new batteries. What kind for motor should I get? Something brushed. I so out of the loop.
The amazon special 20kg waterproof Servos. I am rough on both my trx4’s and I am running 20kg models and haven’t had any issues.
ANNIMOS 20KG Digital Servo High Torque Full Metal Gear Waterproof for RC Model DIY, DS3218MG,Control Angle 270° https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ACupFb7WMENME
Traxxas servos in general are shit, get these servos from Amazon, they are really strong and metal geared, all for $20 : https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=steering+servo&qid=1592867839&sr=8-3
Edit: forgot to say that I have used 2 of these in my cars, and they seem to work great.
$110 Subaru BRZ https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-subaru-brz-zd8-1-10-4wd-electric-touring-car-kit-tt02-tam58702-60a/p1391733
$8 paint https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-ps16-metallic-blue-lexan-spray-paint-100ml-tam86016/p125374
$16 servo https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4
$36 radio https://www.amazon.com/GT3B-2-4G-Flysky-FS-GT3B-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B00LP1LYAI
$25 battery and charger https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Energy-2800mAh-Ni-MH-230-1272/dp/B007Z85LH2
within the budget @ $195, although an additional $13 for a bearing upgrade would be good, but not essential.
there's also a fiat, mercedes, mazda, supra, honda nsx and a mustang in this price range.
They look like these, which are $17 apiece, so $306 in servos alone at retail!
This is what I use. I'm just going to assume your new to RC so I keep it pretty basic.
Servo. I use plenty of these. My only complaint the screw seems to fall out after a hard hit. I decided to try thread lock on my latest build that should help.
Battery. Any average round or square pack should fit. That kit comes with an ESC that has a Tamiya plug so you'll need that. These are a cheap option but there are plenty of brands out there.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293858885644
Transmitter. Personally I use a Flysky GT5 because I run a bunch of cars. The GT3 is cheaper iirc and Dumnborc has cheap options
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B2SVQ3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_2M9890D2MAD908BFEC7H
Paint. I use Tamiya TS spray paints you'll have to look them up your self but there are plenty of colors. I suggest 3 to 4 coats (start light) of your main color. The 3 to 4 of a backing color. I use silver for bright colors and black for dark colors. The backing color does effect your main color. Do not use the PS paints, they are for plastic kits.
I reccomend ball bearings for any kit that doesn't have them stock. I use Fast Eddy
https://www.fasteddybearings.com/tamiya-neo-fighter-dt-03-sealed-bearing-kit/q
I use a Venom Pro Duo charger but that's overkill if you don't have lipos or other many other batteries. Here's a cheap charger that should work well
Here's the type of plug you'll need for a Tamiya style connector
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071W7YNTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_71VS25SAMM72BK1JQ6H8
You'll also need some glue for the tires. I just use super glue. Finally you'll need some JIS drivers. Regular Phillips will work but I find they strip screws easy with those, you'll cause headaches down the line. Here's a nice tool set.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYOONMJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_M61VZ1GV3SKXHWGJQVZQ
Have fun! These are all pretty basic tools but should easily get you started. I have an upgraded DT03 and love it. It was also my first Tamiya kit. I had so much fun build 6 more and counting so far.
I hope you solve your problem and share with us when you do. I personally run this servo in my TRX4 and have been less than gentle with no problems so far.
traxxas 2072 for plastic replacement gears.
traxxas 2072x metal replacement gears
savox 0231 equivalent servo
~~savox 1210~~ ~~upgrade servo~~
Pick one of the 4 options.
as a starting point,
servo $15 - https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4
esc $22 - https://www.amazon.com/Hobbywing-HWI30120201-Quicrun-1060-Brushed/dp/B01LZHBJ85
radio (tx & rx) $36 - https://www.amazon.com/GT3B-2-4G-Flysky-FS-GT3B-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B00LP1LYAI
battery & charger $40 - https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Capacity-Standard-Connector-Universal/dp/B07QFCHPGD
extras
bearings $16 - https://www.amazon.com/Winter-Evening-Replacement-Tamiya-Bearing/dp/B092C72MCS
shocks - I think you might have the rally car, so that would depend.
tool kit $22 - https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-America-Tool-8pcs-TAM74085/dp/B01LYOONMJ
usually the kit comes with an esc, so check that first
amazon is fine but if you're starting out a hobby shop can be better.
battery and charger would be the first place to put more money, then the radio.
and don't forget the polycarbonate paint (PS) and some super glue for the tyres.
The $15 amazon servos are decent: https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4/
Cheap lipo: https://www.amazon.com/POVWAY-Battery-5200mAh-Dean-Style-Vehicles/dp/B08RYNX6D6/
A servo saver is basically just a shock absorber that protects the gears in the servo when the tires hit something.
Typically a servo compatible with this car would have a 25 tooth (25T) mount. For some reason Arrma went with a 26T or something, so the stock servo saver wont fit on the replacement servo mount.
Check these out when your servo dies to get some ideas.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR340151
https://www.amazon.ca/Digital-Torque-Waterproof-Models-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4
Hi guys, first time using a raspberry pi.
I am trying to get the correct jumper leads connected with the servo motor but the guides I have read on the internet are conflicting in saying which place is the correct spot to connect to. Currently they are in 4,6, and 11.
This is the servo motor I bought-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CNKQX4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Could you tell me where to connect them? Thank you!
https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4
I've used several of these. They are not the highest quality money can buy but they are really good for the price of dirt cheap
Hi. Are you using servos which require a constant pulse train? Like this sort of thing;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076CNKQX4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are the only type that I know about.
I had a similar problem to you using a 16 channel servo controller based on a PCA9685 chip. Does your controller use this? The problem was that the pulse width output to the servo sometimes extends for no reason. This had nothing to do with the Power Supply as it happens even when the servo is not connected. In my application the twitch is always clockwise and then back again to the correct position. Hook up a 'scope and see if you see the same as me.
Just looking at another comment, it would seem that you are not using a separate servo controller... So the above is maybe no use. My advise stands; hook up a 'scope and see if you see the pulse train changing when the twitch happens.... It's not a servo fault... It's a pulse generator fault.
I can send you a video showing the pulse train twitching if you like.
I never solved this problem and went on to use a stepper motor.
A steering servo? something basic like this should be fine for casual driving.
This is the servo I used on my vorteks. It had an issue sitting in properly and I stacked some washer on top of each other to get it to sit right. Idk if the vorteks has the same issue.
You also need this in order to use this servo: https://www.hobbyworks.com/index.cfm?action=products&sku=446946&gclid=CjwKCAjwmK6IBhBqEiwAocMc8g8nCXCfS_aP00-01hAWurrppJaAJN5TW0nghWruH5AtFs5PpSjwDxoCzm0QAvD_BwE
Get another servo. Cheap 20kg digital on amazon.
Also hoping this controller will work. I was still running the original three channel Tmaxx controller with crystals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_i_9K6GFbA4VRED1
ANNIMOS 20KG Digital Servo High Torque Full Metal Gear Waterproof for RC Model DIY, DS3218MG,Control Angle 270° https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9QCsFbJZNJR8M
This one was recommended to me and I just purchased it, but have not installed it yet to provide you feedback.
Yeah you can get the Dumbo x6 tx/rx and a new servo for like 50 bucks from amazon. Easy swap and makes you feel much more in control of the car.
Servo (some people like the 25kg, the 20kg is fine) https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=20kg+servo&qid=1595972249&sr=8-5
Dumbo x6 (there is a version of this with a gyro in the rx for a few bucks more) https://www.amazon.com/Alician-DumboRC-Transmitter-Receiver-Gyroscope/dp/B086X87RC3/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=dumbo+x6&qid=1595972276&sr=8-2
I would get plenty of extra servos. They have a tendency to break on you right before competition. Check amazon for possible cheaper options in Australia.
These and similar variations (20kg, 25kg, 35kg) have been pretty good for us:
https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CNKQX4/
This is what I'm using.
Also, it's not like it goes limp when it sticks. It holds there very well. I have held it up and tried pushing it back when it does this and it will not budge. The problem even happens holding it in the air when there is little resistance on the servo to make a power issue.
Great work!
I do agree, that the 'multi arm' approach is the way to go (EDIT: triple arm minimum, as I just did some testing and with only two arms there is really no way to effectively stabilize 'anything' that you are holding as the item tends to easily rotate out of control), unless you have access to a 3d printer and effectively free filament, etc.
The geared linear approach was done as a 'cheapest' first attempt to duplicate TempestVR's and tomotomox's work in linking a robot directly to VAM. After having done that, and then done the tcp/ip connection, I moved directly now to the multiple servo/axis approach. It is funny how much less printing will be required, lol.
Also, in ref to the geared linear approach, I was working on modifying the gear for the 20kg amazon servo I had bought DS3218MG ( https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4) as seen here ( https://imgur.com/a/OMaqHPL ), and per the dimensions in the images for the servo, the arm has a stated furthest hole of 23.5mm, turns out I had to do a few prints of test gears as the hole was actually at 24.5mm! Not to mention, where the central 'hub' is, it is different from the MG995R, so, that then now threw off the 'gearing' being properly mated and so then there is play between the rack and pinion, lol! With a multiple servo/axis setup, that wouldn't be an issue at all! The only alignment issues are effectively those due to the proper synchronized control of the 2+ servos.
I looked into using the ram mount too, and like it, but I think I'm going to go with this https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Articulating-STAND-V001/dp/B00B21TLQU/ , it is meant for holding up 22 pound monitors, so I think it shouldn't oscillate too much while the robot is in motion. In addition it can be mounted to a desk, to the side of a bed, and has a nice long articulating arm and 75 and 100mm VESA mounts which will be easy to 3d print something to attach to. A non-clamped version that you could 'sit around' is here https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Computer-Free-Standing-Adjustable-STAND-V001H/dp/B01FE2BCR8/
So at this point, I'm currently printing the housing for the new multi axis robot for testing, it will be a 3-4 servo setup in the end, might have a few variants. Going to be using an adafruit servo hat https://www.amazon.com/2327-Raspberry-Servo-Development-Board/dp/B00SI1SPHS/ and a raspberry pi and the tcp/ip VAM connection.
Lastly, once I get the multiple axis setup, I will then move to the code/algorithms such that there can be a seemless transition from the VAM 'movements' to the new robot(s) based on it's features. The idea is to make all this as seemless and easy as possible for anyone to do themselves.
And all thanks to TempestVR for all his contributions, without him I wouldn't have done any of this!
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