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Isn't that a ~$50 dollar bltouch? I almost bought one today. Its the red glowy thing.
I had one similar to yours and spent the weekend struggling. I returned it to Amazon and got the one on antlabs Amazon page.
Didn’t have any issues after that
ANTCLABS BLTouch : Auto Bed Leveling Sensor/To be a Premium 3D Printer (With 1M Extension Cable Set) [link]
I got this one. It came with extended cables that you swap out from the original since they're way too short. You can scan a qr code on it's board to check which version it is, how to wire it, and see if it's genuine.
For our older printers 10 times out of 10. ANTCLABS BLTouch : Auto Bed Leveling Sensor/To be a Premium 3D Printer (With 1M Extension Cable Set) [link] here is a link to the original according to all the 3dp
I believe the one you posted is the knock off version, it might work it might not. Will depend if you get a good one or not.
The real ones actually say bltouch on the side and are a little more expensive. link I think that’s the real one or you could go to the antclab main website to make sure you get an authentic one
Oh ok, also can you tell me if this one is a clone or not?
So I can't guarantee it - but (and I'm pretty sure but not 100% as I don't have both) that the 4.2.2 that I referenced and the 4.2.7 boards are the same. All I needed was the BL Touch, a mount, and the 5 colored cables. You don't need those 2 jumper boards and the 10 pin cable. this is the one I got - [link] - looks pretty similar.
Look at my other comments in this thread regarding a different extension cable setup. I had a lot of "interference" which made the BLTOUCH pretty useless.
So is Antclabs the real manufacturer?
Thanks for the tip on the pin 27 board.
I also see that Amazon offers a version of the BLTouch with a one-meter and two meter extension cable. What's that about? Is that something I should get too?
If you’re getting the official one from amazon it comes with a 1m extension
Thanks for the advice. I was considering this one earlier, but wasn't sure how it would do with that too left screw. I'll give this one a try.
> apparently depending on where you get it can affect which mounts can hold it properly
I didn't realize that. I figured they were all the same with different resellers. [[link]]. The comments say it's v3, but the back of the BLtouch says v2 smart
ANTCLABS BLTouch : Auto Bed... [link]
I just got the real one here: https://www.amazon.com/ANTCLABS-BLTouch-Leveling-Premium-Extension/dp/B076PQG1FF
It comes with the 1 meter extension cable, but I actually found that it was a little short if you use it in place of the short cable. So I actually used the short cable and the extension together, but then you have to cut off the end of the extension and recrimp the dupont connectors to be male. This makes it all a perfect length. Alternately you can buy it with the 2 meter extension, but you'll have a lot of extra length.
Also, I suggest people should also change the end that goes into the motherboard to their proper JST connectors, so they fit well and won't come loose.
>Are defective BLTouches common?
I Don't think so. I got two defective ones because I bought them from a sketchy listing. Seller offered to replace it if I paid postage and the 2nd one was also defective. So I asked for a full refund (minus shipping :/) and got it. I recommend buying from Amazon instead of eBay lol. This is the one I got that ended up working: https://www.amazon.com/ANTCLABS-BLTouch-Leveling-Premium-Extension/dp/B076PQG1FF One note that might be relevant to your situation is that the BLtouch v3.1 has a different (voltage?) requirement than the V2 and it's not always super clear which one you're buying. IIRC you can check which version you have by looking at the PCB on the side. Usually, you can specify which version you're using in Marlin or TH3D Firmware to account for this issue. In your case though, I think it actually is defective because with the V3.1 vs V2 the sensitivity was wrong and it kept ramming into the bed, no issue with the probe extending.
Wow that's awesome! Never heard of it before. Planning to get it for my Ender 3 V2.
So I just buy this [link] ?
Where do I connect it?
I have this one.
This is the correct version, works great.
The Neptune 2 specific videos I watched on YouTube use this version of bltouch and cable which isn't what I initially had so hopefully I won't run into the same problem again since it's been tested by others.
so you won't be able to use the brackets with that one because it's for the ender 3 but I got this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PQG1FFpsc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
and it works good but you will have to print a bracket [link]
Personally I bought this one, not sure if the same you have.
The cable it comes with is short if you put it through the sleeve, so what I did was crimp the extension it comes with to the smaller stock cable it has. I think they also sell a long normal cable for it but I never looked.
Then here is the guide I used to set it up, along with their software i use, I chose to do the 5x5 probe:
>After all this do this: [link]
>You also need to level (tram) the bed. Once you are done the machine will run really smooth.
What is the difference between these two things? Is this an adequate sensor? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
Thanks so much for your reply!
I bought this one with the 1M cable. They do sell a 2M option though. I planned on making my own though as I have all the wire/connectors to do so.
I did the same thing when I bought my printer a few weeks ago, the bltouch was like $50ish dollars, the mount was wrong, and the adapter board didn't work. I returned it and purchased this one as it lines up with the smith 3d guide and several YouTube videos. I'll let you know if this one actually functions as intended. I just printed my own bracket.
Edit: Heres the guide https://smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/
I forgot to ask how you leveled the bed. I used a pair of calipers, using the depth setting, and went to all 4 corners and made sure they were all the same distance from the desktop (which is very flat). I'm guessing they are all within .003-.005" of each other.
I noticed there is some kind of "leveling" add-on device called the BL Touch.
It seems that some people use this but I'm not sure exactly how it would work and if it would really help and is necessary if I can level it with the calipers.
Here is a video of it in use:
Depends on how much $$ you want to spend. Here are some of my "must-haves:"
(Note, you can find some of these priced lower if you search.)
All of these things will make your printing easier, more reliable, and more successful.
Best of luck!
This was the Bltouch I got:
Not sure what you mean by 1.4...
> Does the stepper driver that quite down the printer slow it down and increase print time?
Not directly, but Stealthchop (the feature of the TMC family of drivers that enable silent operation) has a lower max torque than Spreadcycle, which may limit your max acceleration and jerk/junction deviation. You will most likely achieve the same print times or faster.
> Do they offer any kind of temperature feed back for the steppers?
No, but after searching how to set motor currents you should not have an issue. With UART controlled stepper drivers on the SKR mini e3, you control currents through firmware. The stock firmware should be compatable for stock ender 3.
> Like if I end up getting an skr board or something would the pi be a waste
No. Get both.
> is there anything I need to be aware of that would save me money
Don't bother with stepper dampers or TL smoothers, they are obsolete. If you get a bltouch, you do not need the creality kit with the pin27 adapter and ICSP like this. You can save a few bucks and get the sensor and cable alone like this
For stock ender 3 you will also need a pin27 adapter and a device to act as an ICP to install bootloader. Usually an Arduino.
This kit includes those
However, if you are considering a mainboard upgrade it may be smarter to do that as well. Skr mini e3 for instance won't require a pin27 adapter or Arduino/icp.
This kit is the skr mini e3 1.2 with bltouch. I think this is the best option
I would say bltouch + stock mainboard is a more complicated upgrade vs skr mini e3 alone. And skr mini e3 + bltouch is simpler than stock + bltouch.
Skr mini e3 github
I bought the SKR mini from Biqu [link]
And the BLTouch, with extension cable, is: [link]
I printed this mount: [link]
All my notes on the process are at: [link]
Total cost this way is $76. I'm a solid spool of filament run through it after the upgrade, maybe 1.5 spools, and it's worked great.
If you want the original, make sure it's made or sold by Antlabs.
> I just went through the links you kindly included and I'm sorry to say I'm getting old! I'm not as tech savvy as I though obviously 😂
Hah! Just means you're much more experienced in other areas--and probably much more useful ones at that!
But I do admit: Editing and compiling firmware can be quite the task if you've never done it before.
> Do you have reccos for any videos as well?
The guides I linked should have video walkthroughs in there, but let me link them directly here:
*You only really need to watch this video up until ~11min for wiring and firmware. Skip to 34:30 for the Bltouch tuning.
> On Amazon I see the bltouch comes with a couple of boards
Here's the Antclabs Bltouch Amazon page. Get AT LEAST the 1M extension cable set. (2m is for those with much larger build volumes)
And here's the SKR Mini e3 v2.0 Amazon page that also comes with Bltouch. I just don't know how long the extension cables are.
However, these boards are ready to go with everything you need, and even comes pre-flashed with their compiled firmware. They most likely did not enable Bltouch though. That's where you'd go with the Bltouch guides I linked.
I recommend getting the SKR mini board set up FIRST. Run a test print (or two) to make sure everything works properly. And once you're satisfied, move on to the Bltouch installation.
> do you have a [Bltouch mount] recommendation?
This is the mount I use, and recommended in the Chris Riley Bltouch video. It's quite a simple print, and attaches onto the x-carriage using the stock screws.
When printing functional parts like this, PRINT A SPARE. Nothing like a part breaking and you have to revert EVERYTHING back to stock just to re-print the broken part. 🙃
Editing and compiling Marlin firmware is quite technical. For some people it's a set up once and forget it. Some just download other people's custom firmware and hope it works/doesn't break their printer. And others just edit and compile as newer versions of Marlin come out. Pick your poison =P
There is an alternative to Marlin firmware (Klipper), and may arguably be easier to set up and produce better prints. It will require you to have a Raspberry Pi (3+ or greater), and has an entirely different set up process.
Let me know if this interests you and/or you can't figure out Marlin. I've swapped over to Klipper just last month and have been enjoying it so far.
Is this the BLtouch? Dude sick I just saw it's on amazon that you just posted.
I tried on Amazon, using this item, and it said the code was for a promotion that had not begun, yet.
That kit includes the genuine BLTouch, which is good. I got mine for $38 on Amazon, printed my own mouting bracket, and spliced into a wire to wire it in.
If budget is a concern, and you're up for a little more DIY, you could go that route. Or buy just a cheap Pin 27 board, and print the mount for the probe.
I started with a Trianglelab 3D Touch. It was OK for a few days, then began failing, so I changed to the genuine version, which has worked better for me.
I bought a BLTouch a few weeks ago a love the dam little thing. I got this one on Amazon that came with extension cables from 1-2 meters: [link]
The connection for the cable ends are "Dupont" like others have said before. You can but them for cheap on Amazon, if you don't like those type strip the wire and I say use Pitch JST-SM connectors.
I was going to get the ezabl kit but after watching a lot of videos are reading things people said BLTocuh is best for glass best because the ezabl can get bad reader from glass.
Edit: Oh and while installing the BLTouch a lot of guides say strip pin 29 wire from the LCD cable so the BLTouch can use it, but you dont want to do that buy this: [link]
I'm sorry, I ordered the one that specifically came with the extensions.
For wiring/ports, this is what I have: Yellow/Brown/Red wires. White and Black Wires. Back of the board.
I tried the online serial checker for BLTouch, but the website doesn't do anything after I hit submit. However, it does say SMART BLTouch on the probe and it was from ANTClabs reseller on Amazon. Any other way I could use to confirm it's legit?
This is the BLTouch I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not OP, but it looks like an ANTCLABS BLTouch.