What is Reddit's opinion of API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle?

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I have seen several people use this product to dechlorinate tap water

https://www.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=water+dechlorinator+for+fish+tank&qid=1612003344&sprefix=water+dech&sr=8-3

But also chlorine is a necessary micronutrient ur water might be fine once in awhile.

> mitigate the chlorine/chloramine

Reducing agents are cheap and easy. Some variant of "tap water conditioner" is sold everywhere that sells fish. They usually contain sodium bisulfite if you'd rather buy that directly. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) works pretty well too.

Turtles are pretty hardy, but obviously it always helps to have better water quality! This is what I use. I’m not too versed on this part and I’m trying to get better as well but from what I’ve read this stuff is supposed to be pretty great:

API TAP Water Conditioner, Instantly neutralizes Chlorine, chloramines and Other Chemicals to Make tap Water Safe for Fish, Highly Concentrated, Use When Adding or Changing Water and When Adding Fish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_5YHD4JW9PJY3989299DM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I asked someone in the professional growing industry here in Canada about this topic (water storage for de-chlorination purposes) and their opinion was don't do it. Just use some sort of de-chlorinator solution or tablet. You generally don't want water without chlorine in it just sitting around. You are inviting bacteria growth. My city still uses chlorine but many areas use chloramine which doesn't off gas easily. I walked into my local pet store and picked this up for 10 bucks:https://www.amazon.ca/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY

However if you insist on having water storage they gave some general tips...

Make sure everything is clean. CLEAN clean. Whatever you use to deep clean your equipment between grows should be fine. But make sure it's sterile.

Don't just add more water when it's low. Empty the bin and sterilize everything and then refill.

As far as I know the air pumps don't do much to keep it clean. They accelerate the off gassing process and can keep the water oxygenated (if you're growing in a medium that needs the extra oxygen).

Make sure it's stored out of sunlight and with a lid (you can keep it cracked open for the first 12-24 hours to let gasses escape).

Did I mention making sure everything is clean? Including equipment used to remove water?

That’s good to hear.

Well hopefully the vet will be able to tell me what’s going on in regards to his bump.

Sorry if I’m being dense - but why do you add ammonia if the aim is to get zero ammonia? Do you mean tap water conditioner in order to remove chlorine from the tap water? If so I’ve been using this

Oh yes, it is worth mentioning that with orchids (and plants in general) any changes you make will often take weeks or months to observe an outcome. One of my phals just seemed to go dormant when I brought it home and eventually I decided to move it to give it better light. It stayed in that new spot for nearly 2 months before it started producing new roots and leaves. I'm not an expert with orchids, but I can say that when it comes to plants in general the rate of deterioration after a mistake (e.g., too much sun, too much water, too little water, etc.) tends to be very fast (e.g., hours or days) but the rate of recovery after an initial period of deterioration is waaaaaaaay longer (e.g., months, sometimes years).

If I were you, I'd avoid handling the orchid as much as possible and just water it lightly with normal water (if your tap has chlorine or choramine, you can treat it with something like this) and just pour it over the roots and into the substrate. By watering lightly (~2-3 oz of water) a few times per week, the plant has plenty of opportunity to store water, but it also allows the roots and substrate to dry out quickly and the reason that brief periods of drier substrate are desirable is because the bacteria that cause root rot thrive in soggy, anaerobic conditions. These plants love humidity, but their roots need to be able to breathe. The other thing that all plants love is stability. So if at all possible, find a good place for the plant, set it there, and avoid touching it at all unless you need to handle it for some reason (e.g., to repot it). There's no need to dunk the roots or any of that. Just water it lightly-frequently and mist the plant itself (especially that root!) a couple times per day.

API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle, White (52C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_JRFSJEJDYQEY7ZE3WPV2

Just buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LO9KSY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 drops per gallon (1 drop per 2 liters), mix it well, and put it into your spray bottle(s).

A little bit of Googling resulted in finding this: https://www.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/?th=1

My tap water has chlorine, so I can't vouch for the effectiveness of this product. You could check the reviews.

I'm sorry to hear about your sick crab and hope you'll be able to care for him until you can get his crabitat sorted out. At the very least you should do these things:

1. Put more play sand and ecofiber into the tank, you should have extra of both if you bought it yourself. Otherwise playsand costs $5 for 25 lbs at the hardware store and you can buy some coconut fiber at the pet store but I'm not sure about cost. Your tank is small so you don't need a lot. He needs substrate that is 3-4x the height of the crab, the deeper the better. It should be in a ratio of 1:5 coconut fiber to play sand. When crabs are stressed they like to bury themselves in the sand and can stay under for weeks to months until they are better. When I took home new crabs they would do this.
2. Seal the tank to keep the heat and humidity in. Use plastic wrap or styrofoam for the lid if you have to. You want it to be around 80% humidity ideally and around 80F for temp.
3. Make SW and FW pools with small Tupperware containers from the dollar store. I just fill a gallon jug with tap water, let it sit out for a day to get rid of the chlorine, and then treat it with this. You can buy a small bottle at the pet store for about $6. His SW and FW pools need to be deep enough to submerge in because hermits regulate the pH inside their shells using freshwater and saltwater.

Visit the Hermit Crab Association (HCA) they are the most trusted source for information on caring for hermits and even have care sheets for specific breeds. Best of luck and hope he makes it!

Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY

I use this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_48B0BTGNMKH1SYZHJZ6V

I like the idea of having some sort animal in the hospital tank. I always thought that while a hospital tank is really important, it's kind of a shame to have to keep it in good order when (hopefully) the majority of the time there will be nothing in it. So having shrimp or something like that will be great!

I did my water change today which has helped clean up the water. It's still cloudy but less so. I'm hoping over the next week or two with water changes every two days it will really clear it up. I also added a good amount of fish flakes once I was done.

Thanks for your support! I'm the type who likes to know everything well before I start on something but unfortunately experience is always the best teacher no matter how prepared I am.

As for the water conditioner: I left it in the bucket for about 15-20 minutes for each 5 gallon bucket full I did (I think I needed about 6 or 7 to refill the tank). I'm using this as my conditioner which says to do 1 ml for every 20 gallons. Of course my bucket is only 1/4 of that and since the measuring cup only goes down to 1, I use 1 each time. It just seems like I'm kind of wasting it considering I'm treating much less water than the dosage calls for but I'm thinking that while it's not totally efficient use of the conditioner, it's better than under treating. I'm wondering, for people who use (if I'm remembering correctly what it's called) those python systems that hook up to a sink and deliver tap water directly into a tank, how does that work? Isn't that just pushing all the chlorine and such directly into the tank? Even if you add conditioner at the same time, it's still not going to work fast enough to stop killing the bacteria you need plus the fish taking it in to their systems. I've thought about using a system like this in the future (a long while from now, I want to get all my basics down first) but it just seems like it's asking for trouble unless I'm missing something.

You can find it on Amazon here . I use only a few drops per gallon, this bottle will last a long time. My plants seem so much happier. 🌿😊

My water supply has chloramine in it so I use an aquareum water conditioner and it seems to work...

only need 2 drops per gallon so it lasts a long time too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LO9KSY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

I got this bottle for $6 a few months ago