That's not a bad idea, as epoxy is very moldable.
Make sure you get epoxy sculpt (a type of putty, usually comes in two parts that have to be mixed together in order to "activate"), and not regular epoxy (an adhesive found at hardware stores). If you go to a store and ask for epoxy, they'll give you the glue, and they may not even know that the clay/putty exists.
I got my epoxy from Amazon. The product is called Apoxie Sculpt. Note that you should keep your hands and tools wet while you work, so it doesn't stick everywhere. It's pretty messy, too, so cover your work table properly (I use a nonstick craft mat) to keep it clean.
Description:
"Perfect For Your Next Project - Apoxie Sculpt combines the features and benefits of sculpting clay with the adhesive power of epoxy! Perfect for your next cosplay, craft project, or home décor!"
I bought this.
I usually try to avoid sculpting unless I absolutely have to, but the handful of times I’ve done it I’ve used this Apoxie sculpt I got off Amazon.
Once the materials from the 2 jars included in this purchase-product are mixed thoroghly, it takes 2-3 hours to dry, giving you plenty of time to fill in the crack and make it smooth. Maybe get a 1 inch putty knife. You can sand and paint it, if necessary. There are dozens of cheaper white epoxies on the market, some are liquid and glue like, and some that also require hand mixing yet harden in minutes.
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Not sure if you want something entirely empty like OP's base, but I just finished a set of 12 Bones skeletons (there's probably a joke there). Anyway, I used some plain 1" round bases and Apoxie Sculpt to blend the hunk of plastic down smooth with the base. Some of them are propped up on rocks I sculpted if their existing base was too wide for the new base. They all came out looking pretty nice and it didn't take too much effort. I can grab some photos later if you like.
I'm also very new to this so do take this advice with a grain of salt, there are probably better solutions out there, but this worked for me.
I've had very good results with this stuff. Has a much longer sculpt time. Water soluble. Dries hard but with a stoney, chalky texture that makes it great for carving details if you need. Because it's water soluble, you can work it into the seams, then wipe off the excess with a cloth and get a perfect fill which doesn't need sanding.
Also, remember that you can always try stuff on scrap pieces. No need to guess how it will come out.
Damn that sucks, is it a handle or does air actually have to travel thru it?
If it's just a handle I bet something like this would work http://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-White/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=pd_sim_201_12?ie=UTF8&dpID=41gn20MrtUL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1EXNH8K3Z8F6KFXHQF54
I just scraped lines in it with an exacto knife, wasn't really hard.
I mostly use Apoxie Sculpt for all my customs.
For paints, any acrylics would work. You could buy some fancier model paints like Vallejo, but I use random cheap stuff from hobby shops just as much as the nice stuff. Just make sure it's thinned nicely and you should be fine.
I'd recommend watching some youtube videos on figure customizing/painting. It's literally all I used to teach myself and you can go through my submitted posts and see my custom figures.
For filling, Apoxie Sculpt is pretty much top shelf as far as epoxy putties go. Nice long working time (45m-1h), cures hard, and sands insanely smooth. Like other putties, it shouldn't be counted on as primary adhesion -- for that, use something like Devcon or some other methyl methacrylate/solvent adhesive, often called 'plastic weld' or similar if not Devcon by name.
Personally, I would just replace the clasp. But if you are dead set on fixing it, you can try Apoxy sculpt. It can built up that part that is missing. It gives you about 3 hours to work with it and is similar in texture to clay. When it dries, it will bond to just about anything and is super strong.
This is what you seem to be talking about. You wont find it in stores.
I don't do customs so i don't know how it works on those, but I've used this stuff before and it's really great. Just read the instructions.
Epoxy putty should be used as body filler, not glue. Use it sparingly. If you need really some to fill a small gap or something, get Apoxie sculpt off Amazon. Apoxie sculpt is cheaper and easier to manipulate than other kinds of epoxy putty. If you use any, you have to sand it a lot so it looks nice. To solidly bond two pieces of plastic you use two part epoxy glue. Best is “epoxy” with methacrylate. You’ll know if an “epoxy” uses methacrylate since the tubes won’t be clear and it’ll specify that it uses methacrylate on the back. A lot of people like Devcon Plastic Welder, but I use Permatex Plastic Welder since I can just get it from the automotive section in Home Depot. Really any general two part epoxy should work fine though.
I'm using this product along with a set of sculpting tools I got from Amazon
Apoxie Sculpt 1 Lb. White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_O-qSvbF4HEAY2
You could try polymer clay or a product called Apoxy Sculpt that I found on amazon. I've used this with great success. Apoxy Sculpt
Sounds good! I got mine on Amazon. Apoxie Sculpt 1 Lb. White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sm7-AbS384KVZ
I actually sculpted it myself but it was surprisingly easy to do. Use this
So the hole seems to be a missing horn. Plugging the hole or rebuilding the horn could be done with a product such as this
Is this the one? Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 1 Pound, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_FBFWNFT8RD02VKNT6GT3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
One idea I had for this is to use epoxie sculpt. It's a two part solid that you combine into a clay you can sculpt. It becomes hard as a rock after about a 30 minute working time or something like that. Using water can help smooth the surface.
I was thinking about trying this on a pick just to see if it would hold up to use since it'd be a really fast, easy way to get a completely comfortable grip molded to your hand and how YOU hold a pick.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013UDWXI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
what? im looking at this
Apoxie Sculpt 1 Lb. White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ELPYitNbibRMJ
Apoxie Sculpt 1 Lb. White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6KnEdOHgdEvSU
Never cared for the ZS Crossbow, but minimized and painted it looks pretty cool.
An alternative to epoxy putty is Apoxie Sculpt. Pwntatoz has a good video on it.
No problem at all!
That top section is just spare insulated electrical wire I had floating about, with those grey blobs formed out of Apoxie Sculpt. If you're not familiar with it, it's two-part epoxy clay that will harden to a rock a short time after you combine the two parts, so you can mold it to whatever shape you like and set it fairly quickly. I just slapped it around the wire and hoped for the best, but another option that might look neater is if you find rubber tubing just large enough to slide over the wire in those sections.
For the anchoring, I'm going to MacGuyver this, mostly because I'm having a brain fart and can't think of a search term for what I actually want, so let's start from the bottom of the construction. Get your bucket lid that you'll be using for the base. Epoxy (or screw, if you're feeling adventurous) a light bulb socket to the center -- this will provide that wide, stable base that I failed at when I was building mine. Scoop out a hollow in your styrofoam round large enough to make it sit around that socket, and cut a hole over the socket part. Glue the styrofoam to the bucket lid once you're sure everything lines up properly. We'll be adding the dowel next, but we need to see how long that dowel needs to be.
Take your mannequin head, and flip it upside down. You should see the hole in the bottom of the neck for conventional use. That will not be nearly deep enough. I speak from experience. If you're using a plastic one, you might need to drill to get past the stoppage at the end, if you're using styrofoam a long knife or screwdriver and some patience should work. Get all the way up into the head if you can, but at the very least get a few more inches to work with. Now take your dowel, and push it in as far as it will go. Mark that point on it, that's one end of the depth. Do the same into the socket under the foam. Measure to those marks and add them together, that is the total length of your dowel, cut it to that size.
The most important part here is getting a solid connection from the dowel into the socket. Epoxy should be strong enough, but whatever you use, make sure that the dowel is not moving, it will only end in tears. Once that's solid, cut a hole in the bottom of your (already colored) bucket and slide it down the dowel, attach to the foam round with epoxy. Volia. You have a solid anchor that's long enough to actually hold the head up. That should be able to handle bobbling around, if rotation becomes an issue and you don't expect to take the head back out, you can glue the head to the bottom of the bucket, but if removal might be needed, velcro should do the trick.
I hope that was clear enough!
Edit: Oh I'm a dumbass, you were probably asking about the part behind the wire at the top. That's actually part of the bucket I used and just painted to match, I went digging and found my old order for it. Not sure if that one in particular is still available, but as long as you have that little lip area where the lid connects, you should be fine.
Sweet. Keep us up to date on the ammo counter! Get this, stuff works great =)
Try Apoxie Sculpt, you can get a lot more of this than a tube at the hardware store, and this is designed to be sculpted instead of just welding two objects together with it. http://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-White/dp/B0013UDWXI
Here's the one that was recommended to me, Apoxie.
There are many types of modeling clays and putties, such as Milliput and Green Stuff, that work great for this. I have no real experience sculpting but I bought Apoxie Sculpt and had no trouble learning to use it.
I have no artistic background and am now learning how to sculpt, and I've been able to make a Bob-omb with no issue (though I still need to give him eyes). I'm with the right tools and enough practice and patience, it would be possible to sculpt hair out of this.
A note: You want to try to mix 50/50 of the two compounds and mix them thoroughly before use. Then let it rest for a few minutes, and you have a good 30-45 minutes to do major sculpting with it. After it rests for about an hour or two, it'll hold its basic shape and you can sculpt details (imprinting textures, for example) into it. Let it harden for 24 hours, and you'll have a good, solid piece to paint as you please.