I’ve been keeping this fish in this tank:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LKC4NLB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_B1GMGWK9BSBTZMQEY6HY?psc=1
I’ve had him since August 2021. He swims around a lot, chills in his plants a lot, and makes bubble nests.
He doesn’t seem to eat very much? I give him options, but I’m not sure I’ve ever really seen him swallow anything.
I’m also not sure I’m doing the light in the tank correctly. I just turn it on in the morning and off at when I go to bed.
Any recommendations?
To answer the following question, ill answer them regarding the upgrade tank he is being moved to from the one he is in temporarily.
Size: 5 gallon
Heater/Filter: Both. 50W Heater, Smart clean S size pad filter (Aqueon)
Temperature: 77-80F
Tank Parameters: 15 x 10.67 x 15.44 inches , source : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LKC4NLB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
How long have I had tank and fish: Tank-2 days, Fish, almost a week.
Water changes: I will do weekly 20%
Tankmates: No but I want to add some, tips appreciated!
Feed/how often?: Pellets/ flakes- 2-3 times a day
Decoration and plants: 3 smaller plants and a floating hide log
Get these, or go to the pet store. Shrimps are the answer! $100 is all you need.
I mean this in the kindest, most gentle way possible, but it's not cool to be keeping fish like this.
Can a betta survive? For a while, yes. Will they thrive? No. Will they live their full lifespan? No.
It's okay to go without plants, fancy expensive substrates, or really most more expensive versions of things. Your betta does need a cycled, filtered tank, though.
You're going to have to do a fish-in cycle (unless you want to get a new tank) so here's how you'll do that:
A betta needs (at the very, very least) a 3-gallon tank. A 5-gallon is better, and a ten-gallon is better than that. Basically, the bigger the tank, the easier it will be for you to get and manage good water parameters and a good cycle. If you want to add other fish to this tank you'll need an even bigger one. With a betta and other fish I wouldn't start any smaller than a 20-gallon.
You need an appropriately sized filter. That means one that's meant for a tank your size or bigger. You can use a sponge filter, an in-tank filter (which is what I used with my betta) which is basically an encased sponge filter with other filter media, or you can use a hang-on-back filter. As long as the flow isn't too strong, any of these are good options.
Unless your water temp is consistently in the 70sF or above you're going to need a heater. What strength of heater you need depends on the ambient temperature in your home, the size of the tank, and the temperature you want the tank. You'll have to research this.
Ideally you'll have some kind of substrate in your tank. Sand, gravel, pebbles, or glass beads are all fine, but gravel and pebbles are both easier to clean and better for your cycle than sand or glass beads.
You're going to need a water testing kit to watch and manage your cycle. Most of us here use the API Master Test Kit, available on Amazon or at any fish store, and it works great for us.
Here's how you actually cycle the tank. With a fish-in cycle you'll be relying on your fish to produce ammonia and your filter to grow bacteria that turn ammonia into nitrites and nitrites into nitrates. Why does this matter? Ammonia is toxic to fish (it comes from their food, their gills, and their poop), and so are nitrites, but nitrates are only toxic in very large amounts. A filtered and cycled aquarium is cleaner and less stressful for your fish. First, You'll see when you test the water (every day or few days) that ammonia is building up. Now your tank needs to grow bacteria that digest ammonia into nitrites. You can let this happen on its own, or you can use a bacteria additive (such as Seachem Stability, which I use) to speed this up. As you test you'll see your ammonia go down and your nitrites rise during this phase. Next, your tank needs to grow bacteria that digest nitrites into nitrates. Again, you can let this happen naturally or you can use that bacteria additive. Then you'll see with your test kit that your ammonia and nitrites go down until there are none of either, and you have some nitrates. That's when your tank is cycled. At this point, you'll do your first small water change and continue to do small water changes monthly, just enough to bring down those nitrates. You can rinse your filter media with the water you changed out, but don't change it for the first few months, until these nitrifying bacteria grow on more of the surfaces and the substrate.
On the flip side, if you do a fishless cycle in a new tank, you'll need to provide the ammonia yourself. That's the only difference. You can do that very easily by feeding a dose of fish food to the tank every day.
Let me give you a basic price estimate for the tank I described. I'll use Amazon and PetSmart because those are the sites I use most, personally. You can get the least expensive option in every category and you'll ultimately spend less than $100 while significantly improving your bettas quality of life and lifespan.
Item | Price | Link |
---|---|---|
Tank - 5 gallon kit | $35 | Top Fin Kit |
- | $40 | Top Fin Dazzle |
- | $58 | Aqueon MiniBow https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-MiniBow-SmartClean-Technology-Gallon/dp/B08LKC4NLB/ref=sr_1_5?)keywords=5+gallon+aquarium+kit&qid=1637623878&qsid=133-1389572-1892343&sr=8-5&sres=B00KIRR8BY%2CB00O8SZTKQ%2CB00324X5L2%2CB08LKC4NLB%2CB00...) |
Test Kit - API Master | $25 | Amazon |
- | $25 | Petsmart |
Substrate (About 1 pound per 2-3 Gallons) | $2.59/5 pounds | Petsmart Glofish Gravel |
Filter - in tank | $10 | Top Fin BettaFlo 5 Gallon |
- | $13 | Top Fin Internal 10 Gallon |
- | $15.40 | Tararium Internal 5-15 Gallon |
Heater | $14.39 | 25W |
- | $20.00 | 50W |