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Autel OBD2 Scanner Autolink AL319 Code Reader Read and Erase Codes Check State Emission Monitor Status Powerful Scan and Car Diagnostic Tool?
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32 reviews of this product found across Reddit:
A good note for the future, Amazon sells code readers which can diagnose & clear the light for around $40: Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6S255PSJ88MEYK66XJPW
if you read the fault codes, it should say which cylinder is misfiring. then, before buying anything, you can swap it to another cylinder and see if the fault code moves, then you know you got the right one. order a replacement. something like AL319 should be able to read the codes (= https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B007XE8C74 )
The one I have looks like it has been discontinued/not made anymore/not stocked through amazon anymore. This one appears to be the same with maybe a few added things and bigger
Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t0CIAb8VWPT5Z
I bought this yesterday - doesn't need Bluetooth, an app, subscription etc... Tells me I have a misfire, let's see. If the shop agreed on Wednesday. Dead easy to use though Autel Autolink AL319 OBD II/EOBD... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007XE8C74?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Mobile mechanics are good. My experience has been that places like Yelp or Google maps will have the best info. Reviews don't lie (most times).
Do you have a check engine light? If so, buy or borrow an OBD scanner. It will give you specific diagnostics. They loan these out at AutoZone.
Saying "it's the engine" is a huge red flag. Engines have many different components. Never let someone do work on your car unless they've given specifics, including a price estimate.
If you don't know about cars, tell them your uncle is going to be reviewing the quote before you authorize any work. They'll often tell you there is an inspection charge, it's always worth it. If you proceed with the repair after they've quoted, the inspection charge will be rolled into the cost.
Cheap obd scanner: Autel OBD2 Scanner Autolink AL319 Code Reader Read and Erase Codes Check State Emission Monitor Status Powerful Scan and Car Diagnostic Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_55ARKGD477FW0ASP06M5
Nowadays they absolutely are! Mini computers and all types of other modern machines! Example for people
A simple scan tool is like $35
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74/
Most parts stores like AutoZone will scan your vehicle for free.
As I mentioned, it could be a simple fix that is easy and obvious, or it could be a difficult and complicated fix.
Personally, I don't trust a lot of the chain shops as they tend to pad the bill, rush the diagnosis and do unnecessary work.
It's the inside. Four 10mm bolts hold it on. And disconnect the black sensor on top. Don't disconnect anything else. The gasket goes on with the little ear on the passenger side pointing up.
This is a perfect little scanner.
Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_QE82AXETPDAKF71NVT6A
I'd also consider getting an OBD-II scan tool. ~$35 and you'll be able to see (many of) the same error codes an independent mechanic's scan tool would see
Some out here like the $20 bluetooth scanner + smartphone option, but I say spend an extra $15 and get something... semi-pro. Autel makes some of the best units on the market and their entry-level model would work great for this kind of diag https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74
They absolutely should have the basic knowledge.
go to amazon or shop locally for a code reader for your car.
Here's a link for one that will read codes, tell you what they are and allow you to reset them to see if they come back. It's $36 https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=sr\_1\_7?crid=RNJWTDCSY0ET&dchild=1&keywords=code+readers+%26+scan+tools&qid=1626810470&sprefix=code+reader%2Caps%2C312&sr=8-7
Autel makes an entry-level scan tool (AL-319) that’s a lot more powerful for about the same money.
Not to say anything bad about Scotty Kilmer, but personally I think he’s a complete idiot and if he recommends something I would avoid it.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74/
So the light is still on? And you didn’t just bump the button?
If so, you likely have something wrong with your ABS or some other system of your car. A cheap OBD reader is something every car owner should have
There are a lot of codes, and they different from vehicle to vehicle. You can buy a reader pretty cheaply. They're called OBD 2 Scanners. Amazon has some, but you can find cheaper ones in many big-box stores.
They're definitely worth it.
Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_LEbREbCPEG6A5
$35 on Amazon, it'll help you get an idea of what could be going on before going to a shop. My current 2004 Vibe had a faulty oxygen sensor, my previous 04 Vibe was more serious with a slipping transmission.
thanks for your reply, after a little reading it seems like I can buy a 20ish$ OBD code scanner and plug it right into my car and it will show me the error code that's triggering the CEL and then I can have a good understanding of what's wrong. Does that sound correct?
Here's one I was looking at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=sxbs_ktp-hero_tr_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3534580262&pd_rd_wg=uKQxz&pf_rd_r=BBVVSJGBH52KF1WSEDXT&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B007XE8C74&pd_rd_w=dvjD...
Seems like it can also clear the CEL.
I'm new to the car game so trying to learn and do as much as I can on my own. Around here mechanics and dealerships are notorious for playing you especially when they sense you're a newbie. It seems like to me everything is pretty easy to do on your own, even with some youtube videos changing your own brake pads doesn't seem to difficult.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XE8C74/
If Maryland emissions is anything like NY, you can't have any CEL lights and you can't have any sensors coming up as not ready. My 2013 3.8 has no sensors on the secondary cats so I still pass the CAT check with the scanner. MD lets you pass with 1 sensor not ready and no CEL, not sure about NY. Little tool is worth investing in though if you're concerned.
I did not. I refuse to pay $950 for a new radiator to fix an apparently useless sensor. What if it fails again?
Instead, I bought an OBD code checker so if/when the CEL comes on, I can verify what the code is.
When my CEL came on the second time, I checked it with the tool and it was the same radiator error code. I used the tool to clear the code and it hasn't come back on since.
I figured I didn't need the sensor for the radiator. If it overheats, at worst, I'll just urinate on it. I'd rather do that than flush $950 down the drain.
Code readers aren't that expensive. I'd keep one in the car and read the code when it shows up.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74/
A CEL can be caused by literally hundreds of things on a vehicle. From a loose gas cap to misfires to internal transmission faults. They all use that single light. Step one is to toss a code reader or a full scan tool on it and see what code(s) are stored. Many parts stores will do free scans (and immediately tell you what parts you should buy from them to fix the problem, even though they are likely wrong) Once you have those you can either post them here or visit a place like 2carpros and ask there to see what the problem likely is, and what to do about it.
If you intend to DIY things that you can investing in a simple code reader isn't a bad idea. If you want a lot more ability for things like oil change lights and brake work and much more, get a dongle like this and a copy of FORScan and you will have almost factory level abilities on your Ford.
It might be worthwhile for you to go and have a shop, whether it be autozone or advanced auto, hook up an obd2 scanner to your car anyways. There might be a code stored, and they should be able to clear whatever is there. Its free, so its worth trying.
And if you have spare cash laying around, you should pick one up for yourself and never have to borrow someones again. I keep one in each of my cars and I find it comes in handy.
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Worst comes to worst, as mentioned, disconnecting your battery for 10-15 minutes will reset the ECU and everything else.
This scanner has good reviews and isn't very expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74/
It sounds like you can't get the emissions portion of your inspection completed. (Please enter your locality; Stalking your profile, it looks like NYC but I can't be sure.)
Also stalking your profile, it appears that you're a programmer; lemmie lay the mechanics out for ya.
Have you recently replaced the battery, jump started from a completely dead battery, or erased a "Check Engine Light" causing code in the computer? Some errors and the drive cycle log may be stored in non-volatile memory.
The engine and emissions control system (And the transmission) are all controlled by a a computer called the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). There are also other modules that are networked to the PCM... Airbag Control Module, Body Control Module (Power locks, backup sensors, etc.)
If the engine is running and the Check Engine light is off, then the dash cam was probably a red herring, as the PCM is functional.
You access the network with a port under the dashboard called the OBD-2 port.
The PCM has a LOT of programming in it. Many items are in tables including the Fuel Map, Ignition Map, Shift Schedule, etc.
All tables need to be accessed almost completely for a COMPLETE drive cycle... IE if you only do highway cruising or only do low speed stop and go city driving, you may not access portions of the table.
The PCM has several Emissions Monitors that it's watching and waiting for clearance before it'll pass an emissions test.
The following is a suggested drive cycle that needs to be completed a few times and should clear all emissions monitors.
Pre-requisites: Check Engine Light off and no DTCs present (this is where clearing your codes comes in); fuel level between 15 and 85%; all accessories OFF; cold start (preferred 8 hour cold soak w/ engine between 68 and 86 deg F at start-up)
1) Start vehicle and idle 5 min.
2) Rev engine in neutral or park to 2300-2700 rpm for 15 seconds
3)Rev engine in neutral or park to 3800-4200 rpm for 15 seconds
4)Idle engine for 20 seconds with cooling fan stopped.
5)Accelerate to 52-55 mph, maintain speed (in high gear) for 1 1/2 minutes
6) Decelerate to 15 mph, and then drive for 13 minutes at speeds ranging from 15 to 35 mph
7) maintain steady 25 mph for 50 seconds.
I also highly suggest purchasing a code reader. They can be had for under $50 and can be used to check both the status of the Emissions Monitor Readiness as well as if there are any Check Engine Light causing codes stored in the computer:
Here's one I bought for about $30: https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=OBD2&qid=1646244642&sr=8-6
You can also get an OBD2 reader on Amazon to pull the error codes. I have this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ZMCJSQ9K0KPZ4G5TGHQ8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XE8C74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i have this, will it work?
Price History
- Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD II & CAN Scan Tool ^<em>PureLink</em>
ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.4/5 from 1576 valid reviews
CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
We don't Horse around here.
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Price History
- Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD II & CAN Scan Tool ^<em>PureLink</em>
ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.4/5 from 1576 valid reviews
CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
Don't Rook too long, these prices might not last.
^(Info) ^| [^(Developer)](/user/The_White_Light) ^| [^(Inquiries)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=PriceKnight+Inquiry) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^|
I found this one on Amazon and after doing some additional research, it's supposed to be very good for Honda's.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_3Jq1EbD6NT54F
Thanks, they have a reader for $35 and another for $65, as well as ones for a few hundred. I might give the little guy a shot. scanner
The auto parts store near me stopped doing free reads so I just got my own. I use this thing. You can't beat it for the price. Just google the codes.
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