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Just so you know there are much cheaper alternatives to the Bluedriver. I personally use this one and it provides all the same stuff the Bluedriver provides for 1/5 the cost so you only have to work an hour and a half.
Not that you'd have the time to fix it yourself(or even be allowed to) but if you're curious you can get an ELM 327 ODB Bluetooth code reader for like $20.
This is the one I got. It's a true ELM 327 reader and not some Chinese reverse engineered hacked together crap. I keep it plugged into my ODB reader all the time.
The reason these are so cheap compared to a professional shop reader is because the reader is just an interface and knows how to talk to the computer. It just "translates" and passes stuff along to your phone/tablet which does the real heavy lifting. Torque Pro or Forscan(for Ford/Mazda) apps on your phone. You'd at least be able to see "oh shit, low oil pressure" or "shit water temps are through the roof, that's why it wont go above 95" so I'm about to be sitting on the side of the road for an hour. Or if it's just like some random dead O2 sensor or an occasional misfire on a cylinder or some vacuum leak that's making it run weird. You'd at least have some peace of mind.
I'm just a tinker too, but if he doesn't have a scan tool to reader error codes, look at the new Bluetooth sets. Plug in to the OBD2 port and download the app to you phone. Get all the codes and internet research in one, plus see engine manager info on some models.
They're not expense and are available on Amazon. This is similar the one I have. and there are a lot of options out there.
plug in an OBD2 scan tool and check for codes..
or turn the key to the run position.. if you have a digital odometer instead of a mechanical odometer. you can turn the key to the run position.. then quickly off, on, off on, off on.. 3 times in the run position within 4 seconds get chrysler digital speedometers to change to code displays..
if you don't have a digital odometer. count the flashing check engine light ..
if you have an android cell phone or tablet.. you can get this OBD2 dongle from BAFX in bluetooth.. if you use an Apple phone. then you need the slightly more expensive wifi version.. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS
you will need a phone app to work with that but there are dozens of free ones.. including torque light..
you can also get a code scanner from autozones. plug it in. turn the key on.. follow instructions on it.. return it to the parts counter.. they will access it and print out your codes.. with a warning.. they do sell autoparts there and the advice printed may sell you parts that may or may not be bad.. so it would be on to a proper diagnosis of that circuit/device.. just because you find a P0420.. does not always mean the cats need to be changed.. you could have any number of issues.. the neat thing about 1996 and newer models.. you can actually see live data stream from the computer thru the dongle or a decent scan tool live on the screen you can also graph some of the data streams..
what does all that mean.. start with codes.. post the codes ..its easier with OBD2 than it was with OBD1 on some brands..
but the first step.. verify the electrical connections using the voltage drop test i posted please.. don't skip that test..
An actual mechanic would probably have some super fancy diagnostic tool, but you can buy a personal OBDII that bluetooths to your phone really well for like $20 on Amazon
On Amazon they have bluetooth scanners for Android. Runs about 25 bucks. Best thing ever, plus you can possibly pill real time info depending on your car, an added plus to trouble shooting. This is the one I bought. There are some cheaper now though! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OfK5wbCAZE7MG
I got the BAFX reader from Amazon. It works pretty well, I also use torque pro app. I wish it was shorter though. When it's plugged in it's really easy to hit with my right foot.
The car will have a warning light if it's overheating, but if you want to monitor the temps, just buy an OBD2 scanner. I got one off Amazon, it's super handy to have around.
I purchased a BAFX one from Amazon that has worked reliably for me. $22 currently, though this one is Android only. Don't know if that's a problem for you.
You cannot make the screen permanent without an OBD II reader, but you can access the splash screen by going into the testing settings of Sync 3 (hold down track forward & eject), bypass the speaker test screen, then press Testing Settings, then change the theme to Ford-ST. When you power down your car it'll show, but upon startup it'll go back to the default Ford-timeless theme.
As far as I know the only way to make the change permanent is to change the hex value in Forscan. I was able to change it with this OBD II reader from Amazon. With that being said, the version of Sync 3 v2.2 going around the internet is not the official release so the one that is finally released to the public may have the ST logo enabled by default.
BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vqnSybHD6E0NW
Here is an Amazon link to one, they are about $20 for the unit and the app I use (the full version is worth it) is $4.99. It's a fully customizable app with tons of data readouts. You can learn a lot about your car this way without breaking the bank.
And this is why I fucking HATE amazon canada:
$22 USD, doesn't ship to Canada (op's link above). Change .com to .ca, you get this fucking monstrosity:
$77 CAD!!!! Yes, it's being sold by a different seller, because BAFX doesn't have an account (I guess?) on Amazon.ca, but JFC Amazon, way to bend over your canadian customers.
20 dollar Bluetooth/WiFi code reader off of amazon. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539905054&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Code+Readers+bluetooth&dpPl=1&dpID=416SaTHOpkL&ref=plSrch Edit: well $24~
For 3800 if the HV battery was truly replaced I'd totally go for it. Buy an obdII scanner from Amazon and download the torque pro app on your phone. Ask the seller if it's okay if you run an obdII scanner first before doing so. Check fault codes ect and also do a hybrid battery test with the Prius doctor app. If all looks well and it checks all the boxes I see no reason not to buy it. BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eHS6CbYT3TXX2
Buy a cheap bluetooth OBDII dongle, and download a free app to your smartphone.
I bought this one almost five years ago. No idea if it's a good one or if there are better ones out there these days:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/
And I use Torque Lite on my phone.
Don;t ignore an engine light, even if it goes away. You can stop by a locak auto parts store (auto zone, reilleys, etc) and they will scan for free in most states. It could be as simple as a loose gas cap or it could be a bigger problem, but if the light is coming on at all there is definitely something wrong. Maybe just a flukey sensor, but if the sensor is flukey then it's not really giving you truthful information about what it should be monitoring. You could also buy an ODB2 bluetiooth scanner tool on amazon for like $18, plug it in, connect to your phone and you can pull the codes yourself to see whats wrong.
Like /u/rahtx said, Autozone can help you pull the error code. You can buy this from Amazon and be able to do same thing https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481732985&sr=1-10&keywords=check+engine+code+reader
Edit - That's for Android devices, not sure what OS you use, but that's the device you need for something like that.
I agree here. I bought my Bluetooth dongle from Amazon and use the Torque app, which is available only for Android. I do use the paid version, however, and it works wonderfully.
Beware of some of the cheap-o Bluetooth adapters on eBay as some might not be able to work with the CANBUS protocol. Just make sure the eBay seller has a decent return policy if you do buy on there.
The app + Bluetooth adapter combination works great for me. It makes it easy to look up codes and save them. If you want more information for a code than just a quick one line description, the app takes you to a website that displays more information about it. It's pretty slick, cheap, and more handy than some of the regular OBDII scanners with the built-in screens.
The seller for this Amazon listing answered that question:
> Question: can i leave it plugged in
>Answer: Hi Christopher -
I am with BAFX Products Support.
In MOST vehicles you will be ok leaving the adapter plugged in as long as the vehicle is driven every few days. However we make the following recommendations:
>1) Do not leave the adapter plugged in if it will not be driven for 24-48 hours
>2) If your area is to be experiencing extreme cold unplug the adapter as the combination of cold and the adapter will drain it faster
>3) If your battery is more than a 1-2 years old you will want to be very careful about leaving it plugged in, older batteries do not hold the same juice as the newer ones
>4) If you have an electronics heavy vehicle such as BMWs tend to be we do not recommend leaving it plugged in as the vehicles electronics do not always fully power down either
>5) If you have any other device plugged into the vehicle while it is off via cigarette ports or whatever we then also recommend removing the adapter
>I hope that these tips and information are found helpful. If you have any further questions you may always reach out to us through the Amazon messaging system at any time! >Best regards, >BAFX Products Support see less >By BAFX Products SELLER on March 31, 2014
$20 on Amazon gets you your own bluetooth OBDII reader that works with the free Torque Lite app on a cell phone.
Outside of old cars (<1996) and some fancy european cars, it can read basically everything on the road.
OBDII port under your dash.
If the check engine light is on the vehicle will have stored trouble codes. They will read them for free at AutoZone or Advance auto. Or you can buy a cheap bluetooth one for your phone like this:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS
BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
We just got this one on Amazon for $22.41. I don't know if there are better ones, but I don't think that you necessarily have to spend a whole lot more to get a decent one, especially if Amazon is an option. I realize that it may not be for some people.
I have this and Torque on my phone. Takes fucking forever to receive the live data, takes forever to scan for and clear codes.
Would return if I could. In the future I'll have to find a better solution. Probably more expensive, but better.
This is the best route.
Also, I suggest buying Torque Pro. Only $5, supports development, and is ore feature rich. Also has a nicer look.
Make sure to not buy an overly cheap adapter if you want on the fly things like RPMs, mph, etc. I hear many of them are slow as hell. Go for a $30 one and you should be good, maybe [this one](www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1443414607&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=obd+ii+bluetooth&amp;refinements=p_76%3A1249128011), as it is highly rated on Amazon by Torque users.
I have a cheap Bluetooth one that I use with torque on Android. Got it for about $25.
BAFX Products - Bluetooth OBD2 scan tool - For check engine light & diagnostics - Android ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_A2tKvb72AJ0AM
I bought this one for my old A4 and bought Torque pro for $5. Great setup for checking / clearing most codes and provides realtime diagnostics such as boost, temp, and throttle, all for less than $30. That is an android only dongle I believe so be aware; others on amazon are cheaper but some reviews claim they come with malware on the software CD. I've used the BAFX OBD2 dongle for over half a year and love it.
I'm using this one from Amazon and it's great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JGBrvb04HCVQZ
To expand on your MPG requirements, your jeep's ECU can show torque realtime fuel consumption/MPG, and there are additional gauges that combine that data with GPS info to give a fairly accurate average MPG.
FWIW: This is the OBDII scanner I got from Amazon. $24 (free shipping w/ Prime) and it's done a great job for me so far.
I have used a Bluetooth OBD2 reader similar to this one for about 10 years now. It interfaces with my Android phone using the Torque Lite app, which is free and probably all you need for now. If you're on an iPhone, you'll need to look into what devices are iOS compatible.
Devices like this are not magic. The codes give you a place to start Googling, and it might be a decent entry to learning more about how your vehicle your vehicle works, and eventually working on it yourself if you're interested in doing so. But any codes you clear will just come back unless you fix the underlying problem: it's a diagnostic tool, not a repair tool.
If you don't know anything about cars, getting a card reader by itself won't be terribly helpful. I'd try to find a reputable local independent mechanic to look at the car for you. Ask questions, pay cheerfully, and build a relationship with the shop, and chances are they'll treat you right.
Any highly rated OBD2 scanner will work fine this is the exact one I bought like 5 years ago Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner Code Reader & ELM327 Automotive Diagnostic Tool - for Android Only https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_H8MXAY37Z9YXYTM9TMF1
I've used the OBDLink EX and LX models, no complaints about either.
This cheap bluetooth one was the first one I bought many years ago and it also works fine with no complaints or shortcoming that I found. I used it with the Torque app https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/
BAFX Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner Code Reader & diagnostic Tool – FOR ANDROID - Car Scanner for ALL Cars, Trucks & Autos 1996 or Newer in USA – Elm327 Compatible OBDII Scan Tool – Check Engine Light Reset , Emissions Test & Live Sensor Data https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_V8FMMTBJJY82DH9C1H76
Order a OBD2 Bluetooth dongle online.
With cars having so many computers sensors, actuators pumps vaccumes. You need to be able to have a machine that can simplify these issues for you.
They take the issue that's at hand it converts it into a code you can conveniently Google and right away you have the answer.
Here is a great cost effective option that I have as well!
BAFX Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner Code Reader & diagnostic Tool – FOR ANDROID - Car Scanner for ALL Cars, Trucks & Autos 1996 or Newer in USA – Elm327 Compatible OBDII Scan Tool – Check Engine Light Reset , Emissions Test & Live Sensor Data https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9XWE9JJQJ4ZYQ48DYMHN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Cars are confusing. I know so much about them but every year I'm surprised by something else. Sometimes difficult sometimes embarrassingly easy. Good luck
You need one of these -Bafx Products - For Android Only... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Download torque pro app to an android phone and you can diagnose things much easier. If you already have an android phone it will cost you less than 30 bucks for everything.
Sounds like it most likely could be cam sensor or your high pressure oil is not building enough to stay running - could be due to stuck IPR, torn injector o ring, etc. if you download torque pro you can check HPOP pressure. If I were you I would buy a cam sensor regardless and swap it (ford or international only- aftermarket will cause engine to stall with windshield wipers on…) Amazon has them real reasonable, and if the cam sensor isn’t your problem then you have your old sensor for your glovebox spare.
It's been a while but I have this:
BAFX Products – ANDROID – OBD2 Scanner https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS
And Torque Pro running on my phone. It has a setting for uploading data to a webserver which iirc I setup using information from ABRP. It was a bit of effort to setup but it does work reliably.
It mostly gives ABRP up to date SOC information so it can give you range estimates in real time. There is a plotting feature to make sure you are "beating" the estimate. If you're not you basically need to drive slower.
I'd get a scanner anyway. Search for OBD2 scanner on Amazon. My friend suggested it and it has been a lifesaver - you know you're not getting duped by mechanics at least.
BAFX Products Android Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner & Fault Code Reader Diagnostic Scan Tool for Cars & Trucks – for All OBD2 Protocols on All Consumer Vehicles 1996 & Newer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_ACNDDNJ4QHY6G48TVAVQ
Here is a great one for $21. I've had it for about 3-4 years and it works great on every vehicle I've used. Including my 4runner but also a BMW, a Subaru, a Jeep. I also use a free app that I never paid for and still use to this day.
This is the scan tool I used. I had the blue one that everyone uses, and if died on 2nd use.
BAFX Products Android Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner & Fault Code Reader Diagnostic Scan Tool for Cars & Trucks – for All OBD2 Protocols on All Consumer Vehicles 1996 & Newer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_5R89WVH8JECJ8W182N10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I feel that everyone should have a blue tooth ODBC2scanner in their car. Even if it's brand new.
It's cheap and when you want it you really want it and it's too late. You are probably good to drive it on in, but plazmeier has good advice. User manual tells you about if one of the lights is flashing or not whether it's safe to drive or tow.
Buy this one, tried and true:
BAFX Products Android Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner & Fault Code Reader Diagnostic Scan Tool for Cars & Trucks – for All OBD2 Protocols on All Consumer Vehicles 1996 & Newer https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_XYEZWGX6P15ZBVMYYCS9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the OBD I use. It's Bluetooth
BAFX Products Android Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner & Fault Code Reader Diagnostic Scan Tool for Cars & Trucks – for All OBD2 Protocols on All Consumer Vehicles 1996 & Newer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_2M1Y8W3GSSXMTM74F2CX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Then get the Dr Prius app or the piston app and it will tell you the codes. Then just google the codes.
Bafx Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner & Code Reader - Engine Fault Code Reader Scanner - Compatible with all 1996 & newer vehicles for USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HT2NBV6C1Q8JDS51BX10
Only been driven 43K miles no work other than just changing oil?
I don't think it really matters, but DR.prius recommended a couple. So I bought one of those to use with their app. Since I was getting the info there, I assumed I could get the info on my own as well:
Bafx Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 / OBDII Diagnostic Car Scanner & Reader Tool for Android Devices - Read/Clear Your Check Engine Light & Much M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_J8e7Oq8Mmreb2
For just reading and resetting codes that aren't latched I have one called "bafx products" that has worked great for me. It is of course a fake ELM32 chip at this price. link
Try seeing if somebody you know has an OBD2 connector (like this one). It connects to a port in the car (make sure your car has one, I believe most do) and connects to a smartphone app. It gives you a detailed diagnostic view of what's going on in the car, beyond just what dash lights are on. There's many different things that could cause an engine light to come on (including just an error with the light itself) so don't worry yourself sick until you see that it is.
Bruh.
$13 bucks for this
Then get the Torque Pro app on Android. It may be 5 bucks, don't remember, worth it even if it's 10.
Does a lot more than just read and clear codes. I take one with me every time I look at a car I might buy. It shows shadow codes (ones that are pending but haven't popped the CEL on yet) and also shows the readiness monitor status, which if they are not all saying READY indicates someone recently reset the ECU or replaced the BATTERY. In either case the car hasn't been driven long enough for the monitors to be ready for an emissions test which is a warning sign.
Agree with scanning your vehicle before we can make any further determination. If you have an android phone, you can download forscan from the play store and purchase this obdII scanner from Amazon which I happen to use and highly recommend:
Bafx Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner & Code Reader - Engine Fault Code Reader Scanner - Compatible with all 1996 & newer vehicles for USA https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_H9095G8DATK3GM7RPZQ4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bafx Products - For Android Only - Wireless Bluetooth Obd2 Scanner Diagnostic Code Reader & Scan Tool - Scan, Reset & Clear Car Check Engine Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_S8TJJW2WCDRAA2HHNSD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Will read/erase codes. Depending on sensors can monitor basic things such as fuel level/mpg/coolant temp/tps/misfires/02 sensors etc. Will VARY by vehicle.
This is what I used.
Bafx Products - For Android Only - Wireless Bluetooth Obd2 Scanner Diagnostic Code Reader & Scan Tool - Scan, Reset & Clear Car Check Engine Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RPHVS1N8VJZ610R34VB4
I actually ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_B5NC0XM2J96QK9TBT8BE before I really understood how much better OBDeleven is for our cars. I think that the one I ordered can check timing advancement, but not sure if it does for Volkswagen. It was more so for checking the boost. It doesn't come in until Saturday though.
If you want to have some more evidence for yourself there are very easy to use code scanners that will pull the codes and give you real-time diagnostics abkut the car. I have the one below and it's excellent.. Hooks right up to your Bluetooth on your phone, and cheap at $20. Could be nice be able to provide them with the codes.
I'd recommend taking it to a shop for inspection.
Also, it's the only 90's Bronco with an OBDII. Buy an OBDII scanner and check it for codes.
CEL flashing is usually a worse indicator than steady-on. Get yourself an OBD2 reader. They’re cheap. Something like this. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_52B533R3C46C8E2KRVY0
Download an app to your phone to read the signal it broadcasts. It’ll tell you what’s wrong with the car.
Sorry, just seeing this. It should idle fine with MAF unplugged. I drove my 4.3 vortec around town for half a day with no MAF and only issue was hard shifts. It was still able to accelerate. If you unplug MAF, clear the codes, and they come back then you know MAF is not the issue. Note, you will get an MAF code when it is unplugged.
If you don't have the Torque app and a Bluetooth OBD reader you need to get one so you can read and clear the codes yourself otherwise you won't know if what you're doing is helping or not. I've been using this one to monitor engine performance daily for over two years and it's been great: https://amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS
The Torque app lets you read info off of the BAFX OBD adapter. Torque will also let you monitor engine operation eg open-loop vs closed-loop & emissions, along with reading and clearing codes.
Really? I have a cheaper Bluetooth OBDII reader. Not really sure what to look for though. I've plugged it in recently, and no codes or anything showed up, any idea how I could see this info on it?
This is the scanner I have.
Is your alternator charging your batteries? Also You need some diagnostic tools my friend. Fuel pressure test gauge from harbor freight. And then buy this
And download FORscan app (free) on a Bluetooth enabled laptop. You need to monitor your sensor feedback when the engine is running up until it shuts off. It will, at the very least, give you clues as to what’s wrong.
Thanks for the thorough response! I bought the maf at an autozone, and if I recall correctly... I think it's a bosch? I can check tomorrow. The oil trap is oem, and the spark plugs are nice NGKs. Air filter is a standard paper air filter.
Didn't research deep enough into the vida set up, but did decide against the cost given that this is my gf's car with high mileage... I'm using a pretty basic bluetooth enabled obd2 reader along with the torque pro app. I'm able to get a fp reading, but I don't know if it's truly correct. reads around 50psi most of the time if I recall. I can get more detailed numbers tomorrow as well.
Gonna put a gauge on the rail tomorrow and see what it says.
Again, really appreciate you taking the time here. Not terribly worried about damage beyond fouling some plugs, but would love to get that CEL resolved...
I second the BAFX tool. Had no issues with the tool would recommend the free Torque app for Android. You can see what all the sensors are reading in real time. Really useful when my dad swapped two identical connectors putting a Honda back together.
BAFX tool
If you really want/need one then I recommend getting this one: Bafx Products Wireless Bluetooth Obd2 Scanner Diagnostic Code Reader & Scan Tool for Android Devices Only - Scan, Reset & Clear Car Check Engine Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_cSlbGbSRQFMSV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The OBD2 connection is via a simple Bluetooth scanner Not this exact one but similar then it’s Bluetooth connected to the tablet. On the tablet I run an old apk for an app called torque. I don’t know if it’s on the Google store anymore but there’s similar apps. This app can read all the OBD2 info from the car.
There is a few different relays. 1. The relay is for turning the tablet on. When a 12v signal is received in the relay it sends a signal to turn on the tablet. Once the tablet is on the launcher opens and auto runs my apps. 2. The next relay is for the back up camera. I tapped into the reverse wire for the vehicle. So the relay is connected to the wire that feeds the reverse lights. Once power is received here it sends a signal to the tablet to have the camera take over the screen.
08 G35X. Super reliable engine as others with similar model and year have pointed out. Make sure to have as complete a history as can get (fluids have been changed, hoses, belts). Check for rust (especially if northern states car). Depending on how hard you drive it and how many miles you put on it (city/highway), it will def last the next couple of years (assuming commuter and ~10k per year). Echoing the full synthetic oil change and premium fuel as a must.
I would also invest in a bluetooth OBD reader. I purchased and use this to diagnose any check engine light. Only works with Android and the app Torque Lite works great with it.
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS
Just bought this one from amazon. I bought it just in case something comes up and for 20 bucks it's a nice thing to keep in hand. Lots of reviews, bluetooth, and a free app all back it, but make sure this is something you're looking for.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You won’t regret it!!! It’s pretty badass. I’m not familiar with the head unit set up- but I purchased the $20 obd2 reader from amazon and used the Torque Pro App. (Remember this works on any Android) here’s an example of the scanner BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Il3qCbFZB9GBA
I bought the dongle on Amazon (link). I used it with LeadSpy a few times before making my decision. The state of health when up quite a bit when the firmware was updated. I checked it a few times after that and it went up and down very slightly - not enough to matter. I did end up buying out the lease. I'm happy with the decision. I might have splurged on a Model 3 if it was $35K at the time. It would be nice to have a car I could use for road trips but the Leaf is great for commuting.
Hmmm...any ODB2 reader should connect to the ecu and read the code.
I bought this one in Amazon, but you need an Android. Works great and I can get live data in my 2011 Lancer ES
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref_=ast_bbp_dp
Unless you purchase an ODB2 reader or have a mechanic scan the car's computer with his reader, you'll never really know whether it's a minor or major issue. There are many ODB2 readers available on Amazon, I bought mine for $23 (Bafx Products):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Additionally, most auto parts store offer a free scan of your car's computer. Try this before taking it to a dealership's mechanic so that you at the very least understand the severity of the problem.
Regardless whether you check/perform some of the suggestions offered here, the Check Engine light will stay lit until the problem is resolved and the light is cleared using one of these ODB2 readers.
Grab yourself one of these. At a minimum you’ll be able to read the history of thrown codes and when they were cleared last. With some minor mechanical knowledge it has other benefits as well.
Yup, that's definitely the worn distributor gear. Having a scan tool that gives you cam retard in degrees will let you set timing. Sometimes you can adjust to compensate for the wear, but it usually needs a new dist. You get the code for cam correlation because the cam sensor is under the dist.
It's worth noting that a worn timing chain can also affect this timing. The stretch combined with the play in the worn gear makes the degrees worse. If you find the cam retard bounces around a little bit after the distributor replacement, that would be the next place to look.
To measure cam retard, I use a decent cheap bluetooth OBD2 reader with an app like dash command or torque pro. Gives you a lot more information at minimal cost.
Get yourself a cheap Bluetooth OBD II scanner like this and download Torque Pro on your phone to read your engine codes, that'll help point you in the right direction.
Better to have a starting point instead of throwing parts at an issue when you don't know the true cause, it'll save money and frustration in the long run.
I bought the Bafx Products one on Amazon, it's a bit on the pricer side at 22 Dollars but the reviews stood out to me and it was an Amazon choice product so it was kind of a no brainier purchase to me. It's been a great purchase and I've had no problems with it, would highly recommend.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_ids0Eb3E077PQ
Yes, lite is not actually lite though, it's fully interactive. The Windows version is free if you have a laptop.
I don't know if this link will work, but it's the BAFX Bluetooth dongle on Amazon
afx Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 / OBDII Diagnostic Car Scanner & Reader Tool for Android Devices - Read/Clear Your Check Engine Light & Much More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_iu.UEbRBG3PX8
I purchased an OBD sensor from Amazon and it works great for this. I have not used the function to replace fuel maps BUT I know it is on the TuneECU app as well as available maps (not all exhausts will have a map to load though so maybe look for one first).
I have used mine to check error codes, run tests on my radiator fan, and adjust throttle bottles on my 2013 Street Triple R so I know yours will work too. Just make sure you have an Android device as ours does not work with the Windows version.
Here is a link to the one I purchased along with the $10 TuneECU app on the Google Play store: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_byzzEbPJXSACF
Yes, you want the BFX one on Amazon for ~$24 IIRC on the price, but it's definitely that one. Use it myself, works like a charm. Gotta start the bike and use the killswitch to stop the motor, but leaving the electronics on, and then you can do the things. Reset the service interval reminder, flush the ABS, etc. For things the bike's running for like throttle body balancing, easy enough to do too.
Edit: This is it: https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS
Alright I'll rephrase myself, Most modern cars should not have plastic being sucked into the engine block. That is pretty much the only way plastic is going to get onto that sensor that was installed correctly since it's placed right at the exit of the header, or in the header if the engineers felt the need to use more than one upstream sensor (depends on engine). If that is the case than there most definitely is either a hole in the tubing after the filter (What I said previously), there's a hole in your exhaust (But since exhaust has positive pressure I find it unlikely that plastic would get into any holes) Or your intake filter is installed incorrectly/not installed.
Since you know a lot about cars I'll assume you have an obd2 sensor, but if not you can pick one up on amazon for around 10-20$
An OBD2 will be able to tell you if your mass airflow sensor is malfunctioning because it will be getting readings from that sensor, You should definitely check that before replacing the ECU.
Also on most Duramax engine (I only have experience with the Focus and the Fiesta ST but this is true with most vehicles) the upstream O2 sensor is both easy to get to and easy to test, you won't need to jack up your car, just pop the hood.
Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
When it arrives, dowload Torque Lite, plug in the scanner to your OBD2 port(usually somewhere under the steering wheel, you can look up where exactly it is in your car). Once you plug it in, turn the car on(just on battery is fine), pair the scanner to your phone, and start the app. Then, in the app, load the logged fault codes. Look 'em up and you'll know exactly what's up with your engine. Then go get that stuff fixed
Edit: also, until you do this, drive the car as little as possible, since you don't know what's wrong with the engine. Hope this helps!
You could also buy an ob2 just to have and use an App Torque is what I use and it will tell you what's wrong. Sometimes it the gas cap or it could be a sensor. Don't let all those lights freak you out.
Here is a link https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS
You don't have to get that one there is alot of options but its always nice to have one laying around.
It sounds like the car is putting itself into a limp mode or safety mode due to the computer thinking there is a problem. There may be an actual problem, or perhaps a sensor has failed and is falsely reporting an engine overheating issue or fuel flow issue. (I'm just speculating, there are many possible issues here).
Check the car parts stores and local mechanics in your area, there should be a few that will check the on-board computer for free to see if any issues are getting logged.
You can check it yourself if you get a scanner like this that pairs with a smartphone or tablet.
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS
Would this device work with Leafspy?
This is what I got and it works great with the car scanner pro app on my phone.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
about $25 total for both the the obd reader and the app. But it is the only one I have tried so there may be something better out there.
If I buy one like this, can I leave it plugged in all the time? I have one currently that I have to plug in and unplug every time I want to use it. Not that that's a huge issue - it's right in front of the gas pedal - but if I can find a small form-factor one I wouldn't mind leaving it connected at all times.
You can buy a cheap Bluetooth OBDII adapter (which is worth every penny as a diagnostic tool regardless - for about $20 you'll never have to wonder why your check engine light is on again) and use Torque or a similar app on your phone to check your emissions readiness. If your vehicle is a Ford/Lincoln/Mercury I can also very much recommend the ForScan Lite app.
I don't think you understood my question - Bank 1 and Bank 2 each have 2 sensors - B1S1 (Bank 1 Sensor 1 - Upstream), B1S2 (Downstream), B2S1 and B2S2.
You need to replace B1SX - What's the X? You should find that out, rather than replacing both (which are about $100 a piece).
If it's a code that's being thrown, you should buy a cheap OBD2 scanner and download Torque (Android) or CarDoctor (iPhone) or another OBD2 app on your phone to read the codes. If you have an iPhone, they usually only support WiFi enabled devices, while Android phones support Bluetooth. I got this (https://smile.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526942582&sr=8-4&keywords=ELM327) and it works great, but I have an android.
You can read out what the code is, and it will probably tell you which bank and sensor is throwing it as well (maybe not, but if he narrowed it down to that bank, its worth a shot).
you should get a cheap bluetooth ODBII sensor like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS
Then you can read the codes causing the check engine light yourself and you could post em here and maybe someone can help
I like the BAFX reader off Amazon.
Tells you sooooo much cool stuff and casts it right to your smartphone.
Torque Pro (OBD 2 & Car) from the Android play store. From what I've seen tho FORScan has a much wider range for Fords. Like apparently you can program your own key without a second key. Ford wants $300 for a new key and programming it since I only have one.
This is what I was thinking about getting.
Anything other than that, you mine as well save your money for a true scan tool.
Make sure it's a true BAFX product. There's tons of look-a-likes. It's not worth saving $5 bucks for it to crap out.
Third or fourth 12V battery, not the hybrid battery, right?
And I'd be looking for something like this? https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS I unfortunately have an old iPhone, so finding an app would be difficult for me, but finding a friend to help out wouldn't be impossible.
I bought this one back in May, and I haven't had any problems with it. I use it with the Torque Pro app, and it's able to pull all kinds of real-time data from the reader. It's not as fancy as some of the more expensive models so it might give you a generic code every now and then, but for the money it's not bad at all.
I don't know if there will be any adverse effects with the manic tune.
Get the codes read at a shop.
I highly recommend owning a OBDII adaptor ($20). Connect it to your phone and use an app like torque and you can read all your codes yourself.
Can't say much about ios compatibility, but I ended up getting this one - BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices - for my Android phone. Using it with the myGreenVolt works without any issues. There's a ton of similar products on amazon that look like the same thing but re-labelled as iphone compatible.
I started off buying a cheap $8 one that didn't work at all and had to return, so I would suggest looking at something in the $20 range like this one. The only downside is that my knees are constantly bumping into it when I drive, because of how much it sticks out under the steering wheel.
Is your service engine soon(SES light) light on? If you do that means your car threw a code. A code is how the car tells you there's something wrong. For example, if you have a vacuum leak, that's air getting inside the engine that the car doesn't know about because air is entering past the MAF sensor(MAF measures the amount of air so the car can adjust how much fuel to mix). This throws off your cars air to fuel mixture and causes there to be too much air. This is called running lean. If the sensors detect that there's too much air, it'll try to adjust the mixture as well has throwing a code that triggers the SES light.
As for reading codes, I use this Bluetooth code reader along with a free SES code reader app: BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_p6jUyb9EDFVDD
This is a general code reader that works on the vast majority of cars, but it won't give you BMW specific codes, for that you need a much more expensive reader.
I've been using a really cheap one for the last year. The only problems I've run into are the slower polling speeds (live gauges in Torque update slowly when there's lots of gauges or logging is enabled) and when it's really cold out (-40 degrees).
This is what I have for my general diagnostics (reading CEL codes, etc). Pairs to your phone (Android in my case, don't know if the one I linked works with Apple) and you can pull up all sorts of info on your vehicle.
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS Buy something similar to this, this is one of the more expensive models, others can be found all over much cheaper. If you have an android or Apple phone then you can connect your car to your phone to get readouts on all kinds of stuff that your car's computer is doing. It seriously is the single most useful diagnostic tool you can have, it might take some trial and error to figure out how to work it if you never have before, but it's pretty straightforward for the most part. It's really all about the app you get. As for a fire risk, it depends on what the problem actually is. If you see smoke, turn it off!
They're not all the same, a lot of them are missing part of the circuitry required for some communication protocols, the most obvious sign of this is they won't work with most Ford vehicles
BAFX are the cheapest I know of that have all the protocols supported and can handle the faster update rate in torque.
OBD2 scanners are cheap these days. I use the one I linked to with an app called Torque. Very handy.
http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS
And Torque Pro app for Android to allow you to diagnose yourself and clear the system to see if it comes back. That way at least you know if it's something you can fix yourself or you won't get scammed by a mechanic.
I suspect the app is the less of your worries - just find one that works on your OS. The hardware is the bigger concern. I bought this one a few months ago:
... and it's been A-OK in both my '04 Saab 9-3 and my '05 Subaru Outback, running the free version of Torque on a Note 3/Android. The whole reason I bought it in the first place is that I had a check engine light for no obvious reason on the Saab, and neither of the first two auto parts stores I took it to were able to even get a code from it when they gave me the 'free OBDII read' try - both got connection errors. (So I ended up paying a garage to do some diagnostics, and it turned out the actual error was a single cylinder misfire - no big deal, and not worth the $ it cost to find it out.) Point being, the BAFX never had a problem getting a read on the Saab where two different models of wired readers used by professional auto parts stores failed.
Here's one you can buy on Amazon that hooks to your Android via Bluetooth - Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/
On a related note, for anyone looking to do this with a car you can buy cheap bluetooth OBD2 modules on Amazon for about $25.
On Android most people use the app Torque.
I use the $5 paid version of torque, I don't remember what the limitations are for the free version of it but it's money well spent because you can view a lot of diag data, check engine codes etc.
There are a couple times where I connected it to peoples cars, texted them the CEL codes, and cleared the light for them when its something simple. It was money well spent.
How about a diagnostic reader? Something like this. Basically if your car has the engine (or another) light on you can plug that in and your phone will tell you what the problem is. You'll need an app like Torque for it to work.
A dashcam is another gift that is something anyone could benefit from, but not everyone would necessarily think to buy for themselves. Over on /r/dashcam they have some really good guides on what to get. Expect to spend about $100, though. It seems like this one is the best bang for your buck according to their guide.
I bought a Bluetooth OBDII scanner from Amazon for under $25 and downloaded the Torque Pro app for my Android phone and tablet.
Under. $30 and I haven't found anything that it lacks.
This one from Amazon worked for me. Best apps that I have found are FORScan (Very similar to software that ford themselves use) and torque pro with the custom PID's found here. Enjoy!
I just got this one off amazon. seems to work well for a $22 reader
I'd highly suggest getting this OBD2 tool, it's $20 and works with many apps on phones using bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS
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I use that with the Torque app on Android (I paid for the PRO version but they have a free version too). That should give you codes and also let's you set custom displays for all the sensors in your vehicle. You can see which cyls are misfiring in real time, how many misfires they've had since engine startup, what your air intake temp/pressure is, all the CEL codes, pretty much if it has a sensor in your vehicle it reads it.
For $20, plus the few bucks for the PRO verision for my android phone, this app has been a saving grace for me.
"BAFX Products"... Amazon link--->
I've been using this one- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS Had mine since 2012, from Amazon. No complaints here, it has worked well for me. But pretty much any one will do. They all use the same chip.
In my experience once the airbag light comes on there is only one solution. You may have to have it cleared at a dealership. There's a OBDII port somewhere in the lower area of the driver side foot well. This port is used for diagnostic scan tools. The system that VW uses is called VAGCOM, so a scan tool running this software can interface with the car via that port and clear the code. It's the only way. There's a possibility an auto parts store may have a tool with that software but I'm not sure.
If you want to do this yourself you can buy an OBDII scan tool, it's cheap. (I have this one).
You plug it into the car and pair it to the Bluetooth on your phone, then use an app on your phone to clear codes. The app I used is called Carista. Carista also has a package on Amazon that comes with their own OBDII reader and a month of their app for free. It may be easier to go this rout.
This may seem like alot but it's relatively simple. I also had a airbag light because I disconnected the stereo head unit (with the airbag warning light) while the car was running. Local shop wanted $150 to clear the code. Fuck that guy.
If you need help I can walk you through this process in PM. Go to the Carista website I linked and make sure their scanner is compatible with your car (it should be).
Bluetooth OBDII readers are pretty cheap. I have this one, android only
I bought this one to use with torque pro. Seems to work just fine. Not sure about using it with ABRP
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ZhUefj8uJtQGi
I've used this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And this one advertises being compatible with Torque Pro: https://smile.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=pd_sbs_7/134-8563812-9733466?pd_rd_w=lKAxI&pf_rd_p=a5925d26-9630-40f3-a011-d858608ac88b&pf_rd_r=Z261S9RW02HG50GEFQ80&pd_rd_r=389620c2-882a-4cdd-af6b-50e3d7e636fe&pd_rd_wg=GFjkS&pd_rd_i=B00PJPHEBO&psc=1
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I think most any of them would work. Doesn't have to be fancy. You probably want one that connects over bluetooth instead of WiFi, just to avoid possible complications with wireless AA when you get your adapter. (I'm waiting on mine too.) I don't know that there would be complications, I'm just reducing complexity.
Do you have a scanner? If you don't I recommend getting a basic bluetooth one to start. Like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_EDBZRWH3102W79NC2EC2
The misfires is most likely spark plugs or one of your coil packs. If you get spark plugs make sure to get these ones because they are the best for m54s. Because they are very particular engines and fancy spark plugs can cause misfires https://www.ngk.com/ngk-3199-bkr6equp-multi-ground-spark-plug
My 530 didn't have dsp and the pixels were badly decayed on the radio so I purchased an xtrons. When it comes to your radio behaving strange; a lot of e39 doors leak very badly. I had to reseal all my doors. And so water will get in the floorboard and can damage your wiring that goes to the trunk. Hopefully that's not the case but it's happened to people before.
As for fuel treatment I've heard from most people on forums to stay away from that. But honestly I haven't looked into it that much. Maybe there is a specific fuel treatment that's good for these engines that I'm not aware of. But also like spark plugs these engines are finiky and specific.
When it comes to engine treatment and advice in general, I like to watch nathan's bmw garage, or bmw doctor. Then when it comes to repairs I like watching ShoplifeTv's or Mike's garage. They both have detailed videos of swapping parts.
On the surface, this appears to be pretty good for the price. The mileage is high, but you would have to expect that in a 17-year-old vehicle. They've cleaned it up nicely, so on appearance, it seems fine.
Of course, I would recommend having a mechanic you trust take a look at it. One thing you should do (and this has saved my bacon on used vehicles I have examined) is to get an OBD-II reader with a compatible app for your mobile, so you can scan the truck's computer and see if everything is good. You can get them on Amazon for fairly cheap, and many will use a number of compatible apps. If you have an Android device, all the better as many work fine with Bluetooth. If there are any internal issues, you'll get a code warning you in advance.
I have an older version of this one:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS
And I use TorquePro for the app on my Android mobile. Please note that if you have an iPhone, you'll have to find something compatible, as this one doesn't work with IOS on iPhones.
Make sure you look closely under the hood, check the condition of the fluids and drive the darn thing. That should all be obvious.
There are a couple of really great Ford truck forums you might check out as well. Lots of people on both sites can offer a load of advice based on the age and model of that truck.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/
Provide the link you posted here if you go there, and as much detail as possible.
Good luck and I hope you find the right one.
Dr prius
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nexcell.app
Also need a Bluetooth reader, I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have used this one for several years on my 2001 4runner and Tacoma. Requires an android phone and (free) Torque Light app
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jQBMFbKHJWV5G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought one off amazon, it's 21.99 and only works with android but it works amazingly. BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N4J7yb8239RKN
Also had good luck with BAFX Products with Torque app. I have their 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices.
I got this one to use with Tune ECU.
I picked up this one from BAFX (BAFX3127). I went looking for one that had Bluetooth and a huge number of reviews since I had never bought one before.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS/
This is for android. You need wifi for iPhones.
Download a bunch of free obd2 apps. Each one works different..
So my personal preference for a cheap and cheerful, tuck it into your glovebox code reader is a BT ELM327 knockoff and an app called torque pro on my phone.
The BAFX is my go to ELM327 knockoff, I haven't had nearly the problems with it that I have had/seen others complain about with others:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS/
An ELM327 and torque pro (or other apps, if you prefer) will get you the performance of a couple hundred dollar scanner for 20-40 bucks.
That being said, I finally bit the bullet and bought myself a 2k USD Bosch ADS 525X, and they'll have to pry it out of my cold dead hands.
these are issues with the downstream oxygen sensors. on the back end of the catalytic converters..
the P0140 is bank 1 sensor 2... no activity
the P0160 is bank 2 sensor 2 circuit issues..
eyeball the wiring for damage..
replace the downstream oxygen sensors if you don't have a scan tool that will graph the oxygen sensor voltage..
it really helps posting year make model and engine.. to get you a proper diagnosis...
chewed or melted wiring issues..
dead cats...
you can if you have an infrared temp gun that reads above 1800F ..
you can with the car in the air... take the engine to 2500 RPMs and hold it there for 2 minutes.. not faster.. check your oil level first please.. measure the inlet temp of the cat.. measure the output temp of the cat.. if everything is working right. you should see 100F hotter coming out.. if the temp is the same in and out.. then the cat is dead.. if the cat is hotter that 100F coming out .. you may have a fuel control issue..
you can get a BAFX obd 2 dongle and several cell phone app to look at life data.. and graphed data
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS/r
this is a 60 buck scan tool that will show oxygen sensor graphs..https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL519-AutoLink-Enhanced-Reader/dp/B007XE5LTG/
Torque pro and BAFX Products - Wireless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS 22 bucks and you need apps for your phone.. download at least 3 free obd2 apps... not all apps are written the same..
that does do really great graphs... and is only 60 bucks..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Used this one, worked immediately.
There are a ton of 'em available on Amazon.
These are popular and well reviewed:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS
https://smile.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Reader-Diagnostics-Devices/dp/B078K54MT5
https://smile.amazon.com/Scanner-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Andriod-Windows/dp/B09JLJ4K8Y
Glad that you'd never do anything unethical, you should still get an OBD2 scanner - I like this one https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS
If you have an Apple device you'd need the apple variant.
I use this app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en_US&gl=US
Here's a funny video I found about clearing codes:
This is what I used previously from Amazon BAFX ELM327
If it were real. I would worry it's a scam at $3.44.
Here's the one I use with Torque:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS
Also, did you get your rough running issue fixed?
Check the "OBD2 to buy" section here:
I got this one after looking over the warnings/recommendations a few years ago:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS
This is the one I personally use but for a 2013 Volt.
Maybe your car has an odb (diagnostic) device hooked up to the computer. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_KD7KFGD4VHFDD1TPZ1ZR
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS
Paired with the Torque app ($5) it will give you the diagnostic code which you can Google to find out exactly what the issue is.
Plus the app has some great graphs while driving, I use this instead of my Cobb AccessPort unless I'm changing the ECU setting.
Don't sleep on Harbor Freight. For basic hand tools they're actually quite good for the price, and they have a lifetime warranty. One of my friends brought in a 5 year old HF ratchet that stopped ratchet-ing (after HEAVY use building project trucks, mind you) and they replaced it no questions asked.
You don't need as much as you think for basic wrenching work, the advanced kits will help but aren't really required.
Metric socket set, 3/8" drive, should have sizes at least from 5mm up to 20mm. Ideally shallow+deep. Harbor Freight
Same with wrenches. Harbor Freight
Personally I always like to have a ton of wobble extensions on hand. It's saved my butt a few times. HF again
And of course you need an OBD scan tool for any modern car. I use a Bluetooth module off Amazon paired to the Torque app on my phone. BAFX
Other incidentals you might need are some good screwdrivers, small prybars, a sharp box-cutter knife, vice grips, and various pliers (needle-nose mainly). A magnetic pickup tool for grabbing that bastard nut that fell down behind the radiator is also SUPER nice.
If you want to do stuff with brakes, you kinda want to have a torque wrench to set the lug nut (and other bolt) torque, but i've gotten away without one. If you wanna spend the cash on it and a 1/2" drive set of sockets, it's worth it for the peace of mind, but up to you. TEKTON click-type torque wrench
That's about it for doing oil changes, belts, valve cover seals, and brakes.
I've been using a Bafx adapter, it works with Dr. Prius and Torque. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_XDRVNBRWN9GVXBXEEP14
This is what I got for mine and I haven't had any problems with it. Just remember the truck has to be on and fully warmed up... like take it for a 10 minute drive then try to make the adjustment.
I bought this in 2015. No issues at all. I have left it plugged into gas cars before without issues but I hadn't left it in the I5 yet. Haven't seen a need to except to monitor charging or use it on a road trip. It is easy enough to unplug
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
wtf? that's seriously low. you've got problems. I'd change the spark plugs (even though they last forever). Get the NGKs, not the Densos. I'd, obviously, change the oil. Did you clean the MFS correctly? I'd buy a cheap OBD2 https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B005NLQAHS&th=1and download the Torque app ($2 ?). Run a realtime test or add a display that shows each cylinder; look for misfires.
Originally I used this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lately I've been using https://smile.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Diagnostics/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=psdc_15707381_t4_B07JFRFJG6, mostly because it has a 'sleep mode' so I don't have to worry about it being plugged in all the time.
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
Bafx Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner &… | $20.98 | $20.98 | 4.4/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
Any ~$20 Bluetooth reader is good for OBD2 ('96 and newer) certain brands can have more in depth options. A 70s Chevelle doesn't really have scanning options. The Bluetooth/torque scanners are more capable FWIW but if he's bad with technology get a wired scanner. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS https://www.amazon.com/LAUNCH-CR3001-Creader-Automotive-Diagnostic/dp/B07D1KH9SC
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This with an android + torque pro was worth it for me. Works on my 3rd gen 4runner. Used to monitor temps here and there
This one has worked great with my 2013, a friend's 2012, and a handful of Android phones.
I bought one of these & can confirm that it works flawlessly on both of my Xterras(Gen 1 & Gen 2) using an app called Torque. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/
Mine is Android only, but it looks like they have a similarly priced one that says it works on both. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078K54MT5/
Get yourself one of these: https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS
And then this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en_US&gl=US
Or whatever the Apple equivalent is. Then you can get an idea as to what the code is, and even just reset it yourself.
I normally review the codes, Google them, and then clear them if they seem out of band, see if they come back.
I had a similar issue on an older mini. I bought a bluetooth obd2 scanner (see link), and used the "Torque" app for android to see the codes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS
It told me specifically what was wrong (Cylinder 3 misfiring), and a quick test of the coil showed it was the problem.
I bought the Bafx adapter on amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
I can see some white residue around the reservoir cap, which is definitely a symptom of a restricted oil cooler. There's not a tremendous amount though, so assuming you haven't cleaned off the worst of it, there's a chance you might not be into head gasket failure. The first step should be to find the root cause. To understand how/why these failures occur:
The 6.0's EGR system grabs exhaust from the passenger side up-pipe into the turbine inlet on the turbo. That gas is routed through an EGR cooler before passing through the EGR valve and into the intake. The EGR cooler is a liquid to air heat exchanger that uses engine coolant to soak some of the heat from the EGR gases. Coolant from the water pump flows through the oil cooler (a liquid to liquid heat exchanger) first and then to the EGR cooler. The coolant passages through these two exchangers are VERY small, but very numerous to allow for maximum heat transfer.
Ford used (and still does, I think) "Gold Coolant" for these trucks, with actual gold suspended in solution to increase thermal capacity. Problem was that at high temperatures the gold would precipitate (solidify) out of the coolant, and would begin to get 'stuck' in those tiny little passages in the oil cooler, thus restricting the flow of coolant into the EGR cooler. Air pockets then begin to form in the EGR cooler, which then leads to flash-boiling of coolant in the EGR cooler, which leads to ruptures in the internal coolant lines in the EGR cooler, which leads to coolant in the intake which leads to bad things happening.
I do all of my own work on my truck, so the following is going to assume you would too (or at least most of it). Some suggestions for how to move forward:
If you can take the truck off the road for a while, do it and do it now. The more you drive it in this condition, the greater the chance you're going to do more damage to more things (and have to spend more money to recover). So, after doing the above troubleshooting, if I were in your shoes...
Most of this can/should all be done all at the same time:
Have fresh oil/oil filter on hand when you do this so you have fresh oil & filter when the job is done.
Some resources that I've found helpful:
Final thoughts:
Good luck!
I mean....yeah ok but - it's $20 for Android and $27 for iphones...
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS/
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Reader-Diagnostics-Devices/dp/B078K54MT5/
Like...why wouldn't you just buy it and have it forever -
page 70 http://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/motorcraft/OBDSM1505.pdf
read thru the rest so you understand how the computer is handling info..
i would not do a tune up yet.. as it seems to have other issues..
ford focus models have ground problems..
look around the engine compartment.. how many wires do you see that are bolted directly to the body or directly to the engine.. not just plugged into something on the engine.. if they are loose or dirty.. take them apart and wire brush them then reinstall..
why.. electrons travel from negative to positive.. no grounds.. not enough electrons..
be sure to read the chapter on electronic throttle control..
you may need a scan tool or dongle..
if you have an android phone.. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS
Deal link: Amazon
Torque app , or forscan , both cheap , and a bafx adapter goes a long way , I prefer forscan ....
Hey, friend. 3SX is extremely trustworthy, and they will pick up a phone call if you have questions about stuff. However, and I do highly recommend this..... The ECU is arguably one of the most important parts of the vehicle if not the most important part, it is the brain. Any future stuff you do on the car needs to be properly acknowledged by the ECU for it to work in harmony. Theoretically if all you ever have on your car is OEM equipment, then a stock ECU is totally fine. But the world for the 3000GT is getting harder and harder to practically stick with OEM equipment. That's the reason why I chose 3sx's other product, this guy: https://www.3sx.com/chrome-ecu-oem-replacement-3000gt-ecu-ecm-jester-flash-tune-ecu-and-tactrix-openport-for-3000gt-stealth
It is expensive, but it is extremely worth it, and it is plug and play. I have one in my own 92-3000 GT, and a simple Bluetooth OBD2 reader that I got off Amazon is plugged into it and cast all the information I need directly to my phone including all of the engine codes.
Bafx Products - For Android Only... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And then I connected it with this app as well:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.palmerperformance.DashCommand
If you have any questions at all, hit me up in a PM. I'm fast becoming quickly versed in everything about these cars, and I do find a lot of satisfaction in knowing that I'm helping keeping them alive.
I would be careful with 1 since that would likely be a replacement of the 12V battery and not the main traction battery. That is good to do, but I don't think that's what you are looking for.
With 2, I'm assuming since you mention Carvana that you are in the US. You can probably get something like this delivered pretty quick (overnight or two days) and run leaf spy to get an idea of what is up with the battery. You may want to take a measurement as is and screenshot it then charge to full, leave it plugged in then do another measurement. Other people in this sub may help with interpreting the details, but basically you just want to know what the state of health of the battery is. I think the cost of the ODB2 reader and shipping is well worth it to know what the actual state of the battery is before you commit, it's pretty much the most important piece of info in your decision and the display on the dash is not very accurate. The first bar it loses ~15%, the lower ones are worth 6.25% so with 11/12 bars there you are roughly somewhere between 78.75-85% battery health.
With 3, I don't know.
With 4, I used openOVMS which works great for the features I need it for. Nissan ConnectEV was disconitnued in my area due to changes in the cell network and it's not worth reinstating. If you are handy, openOVMS is pretty straightforward to install and covers the basic features I use. In the US, I have heard that the upgrade is free or at least just a labour fee for the install of the new telematics unit, but you would have to go through Nissan for that, so YMMV depending on your local dealer.
I have a 2015 I bought ~10 months ago that I am very happy with. It works perfectly for what I need it for. It had 12 bars when I bought it and dropped the one bar a few months later (which I expected from checking with LeafSpy before purchasing). I live in a climate with very cold winters and very hot summers and I live in the city. I'm happy with the car, but it wouldn't work in every use case, so be sure you have all the info and test the car out for your normal routes, factoring in that the range will drop in the winter and the battery will degrade over time before you make a final decision.
So good news, I was able to read quite a few standard PIDs including IAT. The list is limited, though. I'm not sure if it is app I used (Piston) or Hyundai using proprietary PIDs in place of some standard ones but I'll try a few more apps.
Anyway, I have a 2021 DCT and I bought this Bluetooth OBD2+ELM327 tool (amazon). I had no issues pairing it to my Pixel 3a. I used Piston to connect to the tool and it had no issues either. As mentioned, the available data is limited and there are a few things to note. The IAT sensor is apparently located inside the intake manifold. Also, throttle position measured between 12-13% and intake manifold pressure between 5-7 PSI at idle. The pressure may be inverted but who knows. I was in sport+ engine and transmission drive modes. I'll try the different drive modes when I test more apps this week.
Deal link: Amazon (additional 15% off coupon on app)
Category-wise subreddits for Amazon Deals:
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Deal link: Amazon (additional 15% off coupon on app)
Category-wise subreddits for Amazon Deals:
Category | Subreddit |
---|---|
Electronics | /r/Deals_Electronics |
Computers and Accessories | /r/Deals_Computers |
Video Games | /r/Deals_VideoGames |
Home Improvement | /r/Deals_HomeImprovement |
Clothing and Accessories | /r/Deals_Apparel |
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Discord Server: Instant deal notifications on our Discord Server!
Amazon Canada Deals: /r/OnlineDealsCanada
Disclaimer: The deal links are affiliated. We may earn a small share on qualifying purchases. It does not affect the deal price in any way.
Deal link: Amazon (additional 15% off coupon on app)
Category-wise subreddits for Amazon Deals:
Category | Subreddit |
---|---|
Electronics | /r/Deals_Electronics |
Computers and Accessories | /r/Deals_Computers |
Video Games | /r/Deals_VideoGames |
Home Improvement | /r/Deals_HomeImprovement |
Clothing and Accessories | /r/Deals_Apparel |
Grocery | /r/Deals_Grocery |
Discord Server: Instant deal notifications on our Discord Server!
Amazon Canada Deals: /r/OnlineDealsCanada
Disclaimer: The deal links are affiliated. We may earn a small share on qualifying purchases. It does not affect the deal price in any way.
Deal link: Amazon
Coupon code: SELECTIO
Category-wise subreddits for Amazon Deals:
Category | Subreddit |
---|---|
Electronics | /r/Deals_Electronics |
Computers and Accessories | /r/Deals_Computers |
Video Games | /r/Deals_VideoGames |
Home Improvement | /r/Deals_HomeImprovement |
Clothing and Accessories | /r/Deals_Apparel |
Grocery | /r/Deals_Grocery |
Discord Server: Instant deal notifications on our Discord Server!
Amazon Canada Deals: /r/OnlineDealsCanada
Disclaimer: The deal links are affiliated. We may earn a small share on qualifying purchases. It does not affect the deal price in any way.
Thanks! This is the one I bought years ago. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/
It is pretty reliable. Every time I get into my truck and start it, it connects within 10 seconds. Never had to re-initialize it or anything like that
I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/
Deal link: Amazon
Coupon code: XD85C7BV
Category-wise subreddits for Amazon Deals:
Category | Subreddit |
---|---|
Electronics | /r/Deals_Electronics |
Computers and Accessories | /r/Deals_Computers |
Video Games | /r/Deals_VideoGames |
Home Improvement | /r/Deals_HomeImprovement |
Clothing and Accessories | /r/Deals_Apparel |
Grocery | /r/Deals_Grocery |
Discord Server: Instant deal notifications on our Discord Server!
Amazon Canada Deals: /r/OnlineDealsCanada
Disclaimer: The deal links are affiliated. We may earn a small share on qualifying purchases. It does not affect the deal price in any way.
I use Torque Pro as the app and this bluetooth ODB connector:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this one a couple weeks ago: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And I use Car Scanner or Carista app with it because Torque sometimes couldn't pull up all the codes & the UI looked janky
So, the standard chip for OBD2 interface is the ELM327. There is one other (very expensive) chip in some of the much higher end units. If you pay a decent price (maybe $100+?) you are likely to get a real ELM327. For all these cheap scanners you are almost certainly getting a Chinese clone of the ELM327 made by ripping the firmware off a real one and adapting it. It could be an older version of firmware with fewer functions... it could be buggy... it could be fine. Some of the knockoffs have problems with sample rate, so if you're trying to watch readouts in real time you may be disappointed.
For some units, like the Bluetooth-based ones that hook to your phone, you can send them serial commands over bluetooth and watch the response, which allows you to send test commands and queries and check the responses. If it fails to do certain things you know for sure you have a fake. If it responds to all correctly (and quickly) you MIGHT have a real one. And if it's fake but it still does everything right, does it matter?
So bottom line... yeah the cheap piece of shit probably works :)
The only one I've personally tested is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS/
And my tests show it's real (or a perfect fake!)
This is what I have. I also use it on my cars with the Torque app rather than heading to an AutoZone to use their scanner.
2012, won't easily communicate with a pixel using the Panlong or other small blue ELM327. Only the BAFX works with leaf spy and my Pixel.
good OBD bluetooth scanner for cheap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_M9XQSJ9QM1RP9SBRETNK
Then all you need is the torque app or drprius app and you should be set
I've got this one. You'll also need an app. I use Torque Pro
Can't recommend these enough, we got this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_n3MZFbFMP2DXY (only works with Android)
Also, give him $5 Google play gift card to buy the app he'll use (Torque Pro)(make sure he actually buys the Pro version)
The $20-30 Bluetooth OBD scanners have a tendency to shit the bed on a semi regular basis. General rule for auto tools is if you've used the shitty knock off version until it breaks, then it's time to pony up for the better/name brand version. Your best bet is to pick one off of here: https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/best-obd2-scanners-of-2020/
With that said, I've had this one for ~4 years now and haven't had any issues connecting to my Subarus or Kia, and it is much cheaper than the other options. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=ELM327&qid=1607055772&sr=8-11
Good luck!
I use this one combined with an app like Torque which will allow you to read and clear codes and even check whether your emissions are ready and passing before heading to the test station.
I'm using this one from Amazon with nice results. I only have the free "Torque Lite" but I am very impressed with it.
Links for the lazy:
Get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/
There's an app on the Play Store that works with it:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque
There are others, but this one has worked for me since I got this thing in 2013. The app has real-time indicators that show what the car is doing. You can do scans and pull/reset codes.
You can do a search for the codes right from the app to get specifics of issues. This is a handy thing to keep in the car and I have friends borrowing it all the time.
/u/BigGuy01590 mentioned the OBD interface on his Kenwood head unit. I had the same thing on my in my last truck, and my previous Pioneer had that feature. Shows dial indicators, tire pressure (where available), etc.
I use this one I bought off Amazon:
​
Some of the cheaper ones are not compatible with all of the OBD2 protocols, which is probably why the one you got doesn't work with your XTerra, but this one complains to be compatible with all OBD2 vehicles 1996 and newer. I have used it with a 2000 Cavalier, 2002 Mustang, 2005 XTerra, 2007 Camry, 2012 Tacoma, and 2015 Versa successfully so that is most likely true.
This is absolutely diagnoseable. What code(s) are triggering the CEL? Your mechanic should be able to tell you that -- you should ask for details of what lead them to replace the parts they did. I'd recommend talking to them, but if you just never want to speak to them again, many car parts stores will run your codes for free. Heck, you can even buy a Bluetooth OBD-II reader on Amazon these days, and check your codes on your phone.
It's of course certainly possible if you got the car back and the CEL was still on that they just didn't clear the codes after replacing the parts.. you could try clearing the codes and then running the vehicle through a compete drive cycle (look it up on Google for your car, likely involves multiple start/stop sessions as well as different multiple speeds for certain amounts of time). If you're super lucky, maybe the CEL stays off after the drive cycle is complete. Of course, the flip side of that coin is they cleared the codes and gave you the car back before the drive cycle was complete -- and this is likely true if the CEL came back on shortly (within a few days, depending on your driving habits) after you got the car back from them.
So (and I'm making assumptions you've got some sort of exhaust / O2 sensor codes here) -- in terms of what else might be wrong with your car: you could still have an exhaust leak between your pre-cat and post-cat O2 sensors. One of your O2 sensors could be bad, or not installed correctly (I've seen both, even with brand new sensors). It's also possible your problem isn't actually on the exhaust side, but the intake side. I had a few pin hole cracks on an intake manifold of a 2007 Benz E-class.. this intake leak was causing O2 sensor errors. After much banging my head against the wall and spending too much throwing parts at it... A simple smoke test found the pin hole leaks, and might be a good next step for you to consider.
Good luck, OP!
I got this one (in the US) and it works well with my Android phone & tablet. I just plug it in every few months to keep an eye on things.
https://www.amazon.com.au/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with Torque Pro works great on Android.
Not for 20$ they won't...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_9L2FFbXQ0CPH1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share odbII with the torque app in google play
I’ve gotten one of these after searching up online that having one of these will help you diagnose the problem. However, I am unsure if this can communicate with the transmission control module.
After some further research, it seems like these can do what the dealership can do. Should I return the first and buy this?
Bafx Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 / OBDII Diagnostic Car Scanner & Reader Tool for Android Devices - Read/Clear Your Check Engine Light & Much More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cPrqFbZ7WC8TE
I have this reader https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F7clFb5VRDAS1 without a switch. It works on forscan, but only get this one If your computer has bluetooth
No problem. Good luck my dude.
I believe this OBD2 scanner might be good, not sure, never used it, pretty cheap, TONS of reviews. I've got a $60 one I keep in my car along with jumper cables and a tire pump I picked up at harbor freight. Highly recommend you get that stuff or an equivalent. It all fits on top of my spare under the trunk floor. You might have less space in a Jetta though. Just helps not getting stranded or relying on someone to save you.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4LfhFbRSENXFS
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ovz.carscanner
Is what I use. I don't keep it plugged in because it disconnected my home wifi if I have my car on but it worked for what I needed.
I would purchase this ASAP for diagnostics. Amazon Prime will get it to you sameday or latest next day
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS
I use this.
100% agreed!
I bought the BAFX (Android or Windows mobile device only), Amazon link here, alongside the Torque Pro app. Can't go wrong, and gets me all that I need for diagnostic :)
Very good info, buddy!
I just purchased one on Amazon last night and it should be here tomorrow. Is there a specific monitor I should get or is any genereic one acceptable?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one that I purchased.
BAFX Products BAFX3127 for Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pVrgDbGN0AGSC
$20 and you can find out for yourself. Just need an android device.
I'm looking at this one. Seems cheap and well reviewed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_H0ReDbMNG7597
Yep, it will tell you everything the car is able to. I use this reader https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You can see it sticking out in the bottom left corner of the torque photos.
My bad, the BAFX is a good, simple, inexpensive OBD dongle and it looks like I spoke prematurely about it dying, lol (key on is important, Doh!)...
​
I'm still wondering if the increased speeds of the OBDLink MX+ may be worth it though as well as the increased data pids for my Toyota.
I've had good luck with this one and Torque free.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_C27UCbTN54J61
A bit off-topic, but did you know that for about $20, you can get a unit that will plug into your car's diagnostic port and will send a ton of information, including what the car's error codes mean, to a free app on your phone via Bluetooth?
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en_US
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS
Thanks for all the info man.
Would this Bluetooth dongle work?
BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.iopCb3H50VPD
You can get a diagnotic tool and plug it into the odb 2 port to get data directly from the computers. At least this way you will know that your tempurature is ok.
​
I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS
I have the Torque Pro app on my phone ($6 I think) and you can read codes that way.
BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B-Z2BbV6XJF6X
Plug it in and download the app and boom it gives you the codes. Super useful.
As I type this, the BAFX dongle sells on Amazon for $22.41 for the Bluetooth version, and $26.99 for the WiFi version.
There’s no way to achieve these retail prices while paying the $15/unit list price on the ELM327 chip from ELM, even with Chinese manufacturing. While it’s possible they’re receiving some unpublished discount from ELM, it’s also impossible to ignore that the majority of all ELM327 Bluetooth scanners currently offered on Amazon utilize an identical industrial design to the BAFX product.
Edit: what I strongly suspect is going on is that BAFX is using the same Chinese contract manufacturer everyone else is using, but they may be specifying the full fitment of ancillary filtering capacitors and inductors for better performance. They may also be having a newer version of the firmware programmed into the chip. The circuit board pics of competing scanners they have in their Amazon listing are clearly boards that go into different enclosures.
That said there’s a cottage industry selling scanners that are clearly coming off the same production line, differing outwardly only in the label stuck on the plastic casing. It makes me doubt there’s anything particularly special about the BAFX product to justify its higher price. Feel free to spend the extra $$ for the warm and fuzzy of the 4.5 ⭐️ Amazon rating from 10k plus reviews. It’s only about a $4-5 premium over other, most likely identical scanners.
Ultimately, BAFX’s dongle is a great product at the low end. The dongle, plus an app like Torque Pro, and a cheap prepaid Android burner phone will set you back about $50, and it has much more functionality than any dedicated scanner in that price range.
I use this little guy, gives me live readings and scans codes. It literally only works with an Android phone though.
I was talking about this
I think bluetooth adapters are a bit more than the $5 the person above said. I got mine for $20 and it works great with the high speed mode in torque. I'm sure you can find a china special for $5-10. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this reader in 2013. It lists "Canada - All Vehicles 1998 & Newer" as compatible. It also says "For Android & Windows ONLY!"
On my phone I use the paid version of the Torque app. Try the linked (free) version first.
Works great for my 2010 Fusion here in the US.
Edit: Looks like they have an iOS reader now as well. No idea what app to use though.
I bought this one with 9000+ reviews from amazon a year ago to go with the Torque app and have been very happy with both. under $30 for the combo
If you have an Android phone or tablet, I would go back to Amazon and buy this Bluetooth OBD2 adapter, then download the Torque app from the Google Play store. That is what I use myself for a quick check engine light scan. That is all it does is check engine codes. It definitely can scan the engine control module, but depending on the car, the transmission control module may be inaccessible and you'll get the generic P0700. That is the engine computer telling you "Don't asked me, ask the transmission. He just told me to turn on the light."
If you have an iPhone or iPad, things get a little more expensive and difficult. I don't use Apple products, so I can't really recommend a good app, but I can tell you that Bluetooth adapters do not work with iPhone. You'll need a WiFi adapter. Those cost the same amount a Bluetooth adapters.
If you want to pay for it, the Bluedriver adapter and app are the most fully featured. They can read other modules than just the ECM and TCM, like the ABS, BCM, SRS, and other systems. Bluedriver works with both Android and iPhone too. Bluedriver is about $100, and is probably the best bang for your buck. I've never used it, but it gets great reviews, even after it has been on sale for a couple of years. Here is the Amazon link
I have used this on my 07 SE 2.3L and my 17 SE 2.5L that gave me all sorts of useful info using ODB Car Doctor Free.
For those who do not know, about 95+% of the bluetooth OBDII dongles on the market are based on the ELM327 chip or a clone of it:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ELM327#Pirate_clones
ELM sells the chip to a manufacturer for not very cheap who then turns it into a finished product like:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/
The clones generally work fine almost all of the time, but the updated genuine ELM chip covers more edge cases. You can tell the clones from the real ones pretty easily (the price and construction are a dead giveaway). So if you decide to get a clone, there's no need to waste money - ebay is much better than amazon for this purpose: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=elm+327&_sacat=0&_sop=15&LH_PrefLoc=3&LH_BIN=1
Thanks! It's an android tablet connected to a cheap Bluetooth odb2 reader running Torque.
For anyone looking for a cheap all-purpose scanner:
I've been using this one for a while, paired to my phone with the free Torque Lite app. Even if you get the $5 Pro version, you're in for <$30 and can run diagnostics on damn near any common car.
Or buy this and the torque app, and do it yourself in less than 5 minutes. Combined cost ~$30.
I bought this and then this app. Total was $25 for an OBD II scanner that resets some codes as well can display cool and useful realtime gauges to Android devices about all kinds of your car's performance readings.
I see there are other cheaper ones now, but I've used these 2 and know they work great together.
I think you were trying to create a pretty-looking link: Example
How-to: [Example](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ "BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices")
Ross tech makes a great cable with software (Windows) included, but they go from $$$ to $$$$$. You can buy a cheap OBDII bluetooth interface like this one (works pretty well) and an app like Torque pro or Carista (expensive monthly subscription required for anything beyond actually OBD2 protocol codes), but it's not as full featured as Ross Tech's.
You can also look on something like AudiZine for someone near you, or take it to any Audi specialty shop.
What are you trying to do with it?
I purchased this one as it's the most popular one on amazon.
Works well, I recommend an app named "Torque"
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N9MAzb9VKFXV9
I think almost any of them will be compatibile, but this is the one I purchased.
Another one that I can verify, since it's the one I am using, works on a 2014 Leaf is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MzT7ybFM34YAR
I haven't tried yet as the OBD2 Tool arrives sometime today.
You can buy a Bluetooth OBDII reader for about $21 from Amazon here and it works with the Torque Pro app for $5 on your phone.
Do motorcycles use OBDII ports?
It wouldn't use the Pi but it's cheap and simple solution.
usually those don't work, I bought one just like it thinking hey its cheap, but I ended up buying this one and it has worked flawlessly
Best tip for people buying a used car.
Buy one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS
Put the Torque app on any Android device with bluetooth - iOS devices not supported, because Apple.
Plug the reader into the vehicle's diagnostic port (usually just under the steering wheel), start the Torque app, start the vehicle, then run the Torque test and read faults from the vehicles computer. Take it for a test drive with the app running and the test continuously refreshing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyUe1i9UVyU
Will cost you 100AED for the dongle and the app, and from there you can easily run the same test they're going to charge you for at the garage, instantly, on every vehicle you go look at.
Also, as a vehicle owner, the tool is invaluable to have, if and when you have car troubles in the future. Even if you aren't mechanically inclined, you will still know what your vehicles fault is before you even take it to a mechanic.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS
Here ya go.
You can find the ELM327 on ebay for little as 3 Dollars. However, cheaper readers run into issues with J1850 & CAN protocols which can get annoying. I personally use a BAFX Products 34T5 and a cable with switchable power so im not stuck draining battery or needing to remove the reader. The Pixel XL should have no issues in the slightest with torque or DashCommand.
Shameless self promotion.... I recently made a video on both the BAFX reader install (if you wanna call it that lol) and a comparison video between Torque and DashCommand.
He's saying some people can be dishonest when they sell vehicles.
Just because there are the only two codes posted in the ad doesn't mean those are the only codes the trucks computer is posting. Without an ODB-II reader you can't verify that, you have to take the sellers word for it. If you own/buy/rent one you can verify for yourself.
It's cheap insurance to bring one with you and verify. You can buy one that hooks up to your phone for about 20$ from amazon and use an application like Torque on your phone to read the information directly to your phone. You can also buy one that doesn't hook up to your phone for about the same price.
Some automotive stores will even let you rent one with a deposit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And using torque from android, can hook it up to my laptop or whatever if that will help. I recently replaced the track bar and motor mounts
If you have a smart phone, you can order one of these and then install a free app on your phone that'll show you your codes. This will work with any car that has an OBDII socket:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The app is:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree&hl=en
This will let you clear the check engine light and codes... but of course, if the problem causing the codes isn't fixed, they'll make the light come back on again.
The thing is amazing - you can see nearly all the data your car computer sees... engine coolant temp, oil pressure, rpm, accelerator/throttle info, ... just lots. Everything in my '10 Corolla except tire pressure.
The BafX ones are the good ones that work well, a lot of the cheaper bluetooth ones won't work with Ford and some other cars, and/or update very slowly.
There are a ton of bluetooth obd2 adapters... but many are partially defective. This one works.
You can get OBD for bt: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS
Fuelly, GasCubby for the Iphone market. You can also use a OBD2 reader like the Automatic Link(99 dollars, http://www.automatic.com), it syncs to an app and the cloud, and you can mark trips for work. I think there's a torque app for android that you can use with a cheap ODB2 reader like http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS, if you don't want to pay a lot, I think they start at around 20 bucks.
This:
That, a magnet and sock, a VIN checking website subscription, a friend and a flashlight are the best tools to check on a used car.
Flashlight to inspect crevices.
Friend to start the car from cold while you inspect the color of the exhaust. Then, shift in and out of first and reverse to see if the engine is stable. Then, the friend depresses the clutch, and you listen for chatter. Then a few WoT and you look and listen.
Magnet goes in the sock and you touch it to suspect areas. If it falls, there was rust repair (or it's a plastic panel. Haha).
The reader will scan for any fault codes that currently exist. It will not look for old codes, but it'll tell you if its a O2 sensor or misfire.
A VIN checking website subscription like AutoCheck or CarFax to check if there have ever been accidents or if there's a healthy service record. For that matter, demand all the service records. If they don't have them, don't believe anything they say, and imagine that the vehicle has never had service.
I say all of this as a guy who got fucked each time he bought a used car. My GTI had a hidden accident I could have found with a magnet. My wife's Passat was a lemon (legally. It failed six times under the previous owner), but it wasn't revealed at the time of purchase, and we didn't check the VIN. And more. Three more. Which accounts for five of the five used vehicles I've bought.
I got this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS Not the cheapest but it was able to read the codes on a Honda, Mazda, and BMW. I got scared away by the cheaper ones that had 20 different sellers and some bad reviews (plenty of good ones too but the extra $10 seemed worth it to avoid any hassle)
BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/
I use this one. With Torque for Android I can set it up to log any of these parameters from the ECU.
Does your RSX have a CAN bus? At least some of the ELM 327 bluetooth adapters don't work with CAN bus vehicles. I have 2 of the adapters, and while both work on the original ECU in my 2002 WRX, neither work on the '04 JDM WRX ECU or my 2007 Forester. The Forester has the same symptoms you described. It just cycles endlessly through protocols and never works. I ended up getting this adapter, which does work:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS
Beware: It claims only to work with Android devices, and that's all I've ever tried it with, so for all I know that's true.
Another thing could be that you shorted your air/fuel sensor on the exhaust pipe behind the first catalytic converter. It happened to me after I removed my running boards but hadn't installed mud flaps, since the sensor sits just where the front right wheel throws up debris and mud.
What you really need is an OBD2 reader so you can get those error codes, that will put you on the right track. I like this one from amazon for $20 if you have an android phone
Just an extra tip since you got good advice. I don't regret buying this http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS (Or any other well reviewed one, all the same if they work) and this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en one bit. Nice to know it's in the glove box.
Edit: if this is any good, an on off switch would be handy http://www.amazon.com/Hikeren-Bluetooth-Automotive-Diagnostics-Scanner/dp/B014MTAYK0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0T8ESYGK8N9Q52YMRQAS&dpID=41aFcjck%2BML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_
GPS tracking:
This is a bit of a shameless plug, but I've been working on some code for this very issue. I have a bluetooth ODBII adapter, which connects to the torque app on my android phone, logging my trips AND engine stats. The author of torque provides a server to do web uploads of your tracks to view online, but a guy named econpy wrote an open source implementation of a torque website which I've been working on (he hasn't worked on it in a year).
It's not live, but it'll upload your tracks as they complete and you get signal, so maybe a few hours delay.
My demo server: http://hda.surfrock66.com/torquetest/session.php
My github repo for the code: https://github.com/surfrock66/torque
The ODBII adapter I use: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1441896600&sr=8-1&keywords=ODBII+bluetooth
ODBII extension cable in case the ODBII port is in an inconvenient place: http://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Obd-ii-Extension-Diagnostic-Extender/dp/B007PAHHWM/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_y
I am ACTIVELY developing, but am a little stuck right now because of a regression implemented in the torque app. My goal is to add support for multiple profiles uploading to one server, better PID management from the web console, and eventually custom email notifications for PIDs hitting certain thresholds.
I got this one http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS and use it with the Torque app. It's very cool.
In addition to codes, which you can reset, you can get a lot of other data as well. I haven't done it in a long time and I don't understand what some of it is in the first place.
Is there a particular piece of data you want to be able to read? I can check to see if it is reported or not with this app-adaptor combo.
I used to be terrified of rollercoasters. I thought they were death traps and I was not about that. Well one day at a school trip one of my friends essentially tricked me into a ride, and it was a blast I loved it so much. Now I ride them at every opportunity I have
I am a car enthusiast so getting different info about my cars parameters is necessary. this little tool will allow my phone to act as a gauge pod and I can view those things! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=IRY9VRLMONGB&coliid=I3HLE2VSPW7ZJB
Things like this are very popular.. Cheaper on Ebay, free software available.
Thanks again. I am looking at this scanner for my android phone. It can use a number of different apps, but I will need to do a little more digging to see if it's possible to get a graph mode on any of them.
Well, this is what I've been using for a few years without any issues
Plug it into the OBD2 connector. Open your phone's Bluetooth menu and search for the adapter, connect and PIN is 1234. You can use the app called Torque
This is for Android, unsure if you have Android or iPhone. If you have a iPhone it's a bit different OBD2 connector device you need to get IIRC.
Grabs a ton of DATA. Whatever sensors you have, it can record them all. Short/Long Fuel Trim DATA, O2, Fuel Consumption, Speed, RPM, GPS logging, misfires, Fuel Injector Pulses, If you have a turbo then boot, Throttle Position, MAP, intake temp, coolant temp etc
For the future (assuming you have a bluetooth-enabled smartphone) you should get one of these ODBII dongles. Due to the scary unknowns of the electrical/computer system of the Prius if I get a red triangle I will immediately pull over and cease operation until I know why I am getting it. So far owning my car for 10 months/45k miles I have only had this happen once. Didn't realize that the gas gauge had been blinking for so long, ran out of gas. Checked the code and realized what it was, and decided to have someone bring me gas rather than risking trying to get to the gas station on electric only. Used the obd tool to clear the codes and kept on with my day.
If you have an android phone get a cheap bluetooth reader off amazon then download the Torque app. You'll be able to read your code and have hours of fun with the app. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 is the one I bought and it's connected to everything I've tried it on so far.
No warning lights at all.. nothing :(
I am an Android user.
This one? http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS
I will take it to the other ford dealership in town and have them look at it.
Thanks for the info! So you used an OBD2 to bluetooth adapter right? Such as these?
If you have an Android phone, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
and Torque are what I use on my 2014 S4. It works well.
had it for about 2 years, still works, bought it for like 10-15, I see no reason for the automatic as it is the samething as any other odb scanner.
This is what I use, but YMMV: BAFX Products - Bluetooth OBD2 scan tool - For check engine light & diagnostics - Android ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_69MDvb08AX39H
this is the bluetooth one but it seems to have gone out on me so I'm sticking with the regular connection. I posted why in the comment below.
http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS
Plug that in to your OBD2 sensor and I use a app called torque to interface with. There are a whole bunch of sweet things you can monitor about your car with it. Another bonus is you can get engine failure if your car had the check engine light.
I'm not to sure about the CEL, I'm not to sure what sensors a driveline would have. I bought o e of these the other week for when they do pop up instead of going somewhere and them trying to sell me stuff, works like a charm: BAFX Products - Bluetooth OBD2 scan tool - For check engine light & diagnostics - Android ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_BA5rvb0YZ5988
absolutely - IMO this is by far the best and probably one of (if not the) cheapest options out there.
This is the adapter I got since (at least when I got mine) it had more universal compatibility than some others on the market - particularly with later ford vehicles and I planned on using it for my '05 Mustang so this was a requirement.
So far I've used it on numerous makes/models and never had any trouble. Biggest problem I had was remembering that I had to sync with my bluetooth adapter via the options menu before the app would detect it after I got a new phone and reinstalled torque.
If you have an android phone get a Blutooth OBD 2 reader: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427744214&sr=8-2&keywords=obd+scanner and then download: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree&hl=en to view codes, it will even tell you what the code means, you do not have to get the paid one.
If you don't have an Android just get a handheld scanner.
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> If you have an android phone get a Blutooth OBD 2 reader:
> and then download:
> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree&amp;hl=en
> to view codes, it will even tell you what the code means, you do not have to get the paid one.
>
> If you don't have an Android just get a handheld scanner.
>
^(I am a bot. Contact) ^pentium4borg ^(with any feedback.)
Buy an OBD2 Bluetooth code reader and download the App. Find and research trouble codes for you check engine light. You can often fix issues yourself or ensure you're not overcharged or lied to. Google and youtube is your friend.
http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS
In MPG? Not sure honestly, my gas gauge is inconsistent and I haven't driven it long distance in a few weeks. Though if you believe the gauge, 45 miles (40 highway) cost about a quarter tank, about 8.5 gallons. So that'd be roughly 5MPG but like I said, I don't know how much I trust it given how I only had a quarter tank to start with.
I was going to order this to have a look, would you recommend it, or a different one?
Sort of glad to hear that my goof probably isn't what caused it, and if it's just that emissions thing I won't bother for now since it got inspected in November last year, still plenty of time. But as soon as I'm done typing this I'll hit up AutoZone and see if they'll read my code. Where would I go about finding out what the code means?
Edit: P0137, O2 Sensor. I don't need an inspection sticker until September, so I'm no longer worried. I'll fix it when I get the chance. Thanks for the help!
Don't know about best, because I only have one.
BAFX Products - Bluetooth OBD2. $24 shipped from Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS
I don't use it for realtime stats, mostly to precheck before getting a smog check.
I dabbled a little bit with the realtime stats, and seems to be working as intended.
Works for what I need it for.
You should ask what the advantages of that one vs this one are. Mine is a third of the price and posits with my phone, laptop, and tablet running a few different programs.
Bought 3 before I got one to work on my 02 Grand Prix. GM doesn't work with them all. Of course NONE of the products info tell you this.
Bought the BAFX which worked.
http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS
yes exactly $130 for 60 months. I'm really hoping the dealership will work with me on this. this is the OBD2 reader i just bought. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Always check the Kelley Blue Book value.
You may also want to look online for common issues that the vehicle has.
Make sure the check engine light isn't on, and that they haven't disconnected the battery recently (since this is a quick way to clear any trouble codes detected by the car. You should do that with a scan tool, but you can also look for other less definitive clues (like the radio presets being reset).
A scan tool is definitely worth investing in. I personally purchased this bluetooth one, and have some apps on my Android phone to connect to it. If you have an Apple phone, you will have to look elsewhere, or carry a bluetooth capable laptop to check on the sensors.
If you do notice any issues, it's sometimes worth asking the seller if they will be willing to fix it, or if they will be willing to lower the asking price to compensate. If it's something like the battery not charging, the alternator may be bad, but that's something relatively cheap. If the transmission is fucked, you'll be looking at a serious repair bill in the thousands. At that point, however, the seller will probably be interested in finding a sucker elsewhere.
Finally, find out why the seller is selling their car, and how long they've been trying to sell it. If it's been on the market for weeks, that's usually a bad sign - decent cheap college kid cars get snapped up quick.
> Bluetooth OBDII scanne
http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS
Since I haven't seen anybody address your data logging question, I highly suggest the Torque app available on android paired with a $25 OBDII reader from amazon. Plus then you don't have to pay $50-$250 on a scanner tool. I've got mine setup to start logging as soon as it connects to my car every time i start it up.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque
http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/
Right, I'm saying that I can do all of this already with the cheap hardware on the market (example).
You do get what you pay for, but it does work. The Android app Torque is what made these interfaces even more popular.
There are better interfaces on the market, which can be used with devices such as the Arduino (example)
There are also OBDII readers on Amazon with bluetooth capabilities. I purchased this one and use a free program called "Torque" to read all the engine codes. Saves a lot of time and hassle and costs <$25 for the capability.
I was looking at this one. Is there a better one out there? Also, is there a good app that you guys recommend?
I bet there are a few different ones running around that look almost identical because I have this one in my 86 right now and it works perfectly. I use Torque on android.
Might I recommend this?
Have a smartphone?
Get one of these http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS
And the "torque" app (different apps and readers for different phone types, choose accordingly) Total cost should be like, $30 and it can be used for years.
It will read the fault and tell you what it is, you can clear the fault and see if it returns (if you dont understand it)
A co-worker got a fault for low idle at startup, he changed the air filter, I cleared the code, and it never came back.
Try one of these if your car will take it. It has saved me money. I can just take the code to the mechanic and they can give me a repair plan. Then I can shop for the parts and make the repair.
This is the code reader if in the future you're interested or working on another car. The app was free and I seriously love it. Code readers that a garage use are expensive because you're paying for a powerful handheld computer, but most of us already have powerful handheld computers!
Forget the $200 stuff, $20 for this and a smart phone or tablet is all you need:
http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS
You can get a cheap bluetooth one like this and interface it with something like the Torque app on Android. It's worked pretty well with my Honda Accord so far.
I would replace them, it's easy, you can do it in your driveway, you can get the socket you need at an autoparts store for $5. Then you KNOW you're not having a legit issue. My CEL comes on from time to time complaining about o2 slow response or heater issues I use torque on my android and this blue tooth odb2 reader and reset the CEL, if it comes back, then I look into it. I make sure none of the wires on the sensor are broken or have their insulation rubbed off, make sure they haven't come loose and that they are in fact, plugged in :)
Also, when you do replace, use NTK not bosch! The bosch are known to go out early and the NTKs are same as OEM
I'm gonna suggest this as well. I got a tablet mount that attaches to the seat rail, I have a Motorola Xoom. Have all my customized gauges and it looks awesome. Tablet mount required some modification to get it to fully seat in seat rail.
http://imgur.com/Q84oESA http://imgur.com/POb2xKY http://imgur.com/0aGX7aV
BAFX Products - Bluetooth OBD2 scan tool - For check engine light & diagnostics - Android ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Y2rDub1GZ1XAC
Arkon Seat Rail Floor Car Truck Mount with 18 inch Gooseneck for iPad Air iPad 2 Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 Galaxy Tab Pro 12.2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00585CLSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_A3rDub100X8JA
Response as a whole, for the 'non-believers' the cooling, heating and engine is all linked. If you're engine just started up and you're pulling heat away from it before it can build up enough heat to reach optimal temperature...it'll take longer to heat. You don't want to over heat your engine either, which yes the cooling system is in place to aid with that but it will only go so far. For example if you're driving around slow, not much wind is hitting it or you're sitting idle for extended periods of time, turn your heat up, open the windows if needed. This way more heat can be removed from the engine since there is no significant airflow from the front end of the car.
http://allaboutautomotive.com/blog/how-does-the-heater-in-my-vehicle-work/
That's one source which explains how the systems are 'linked' or related. I've come across many in the past that can confirm, the reason being why I've had to look at this up is, my thermostat recently got stuck open a little, I haven't had time to change it as it's too cold to work in the garage (Chicago). My car warms up fine, significantly faster when I don't turn the heat (blower) on as once I turn it on, high enough, before the engine is at optimal temperature I can actually see the coolant temperature drop (the temp gauge on your instrument panel is actually measuring this) So when the thermostat is stuck (in my case, not fully stuck open but partially) the higher the speeds (more airflow) the lower my cooling temperature drops. I can be at optimal (center) temperature on the local roads, get on the expressway and the coolant temperature will actually drop to the quarter mark if I'm on the expressway long enough, if I turn the heater off while on the expressway it will be higher than the quarter mark. Until I change my thermostat it'll just continue to over cool the engine a little.
Side tip, for anyone diagnosing issues on their car and need a obdii reader, I find the one from amazon, when I bought it was $24, connects to my android device via Bluetooth (sorry, this one is not ios compatible, last I checked) and gives me fault codes if there is a check engine light on and live readings of my car's readings directly from the ECU; coolant temp, rpms, o2 voltages, a/f ratios, etc.
Oh the app is called 'torque.'
While I'm at it, here's the obdii reader from amazon - BAFX Products - Bluetooth OBD2 scan tool - For check engine light & diagnostics - Android ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_l4PHub1SSAQQZ
Get this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
Works perfectly with Torque and even supports faster polling. No battery drain issues and really no issues getting in the way of driving either.
To add to the others... if you don't already have a scan tool and have an Android phone or tablet pick up a Bluetooth OBDII adapter from Amazon and download Torque Pro.
The boost readout didn't work for me at all. On an Audi. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o04_s02_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I purchased this one which is pretty much the same thing and it works great with the torque app and my 07 Focus.
You should pick up this Blutooth obd2 adapter and the Torque app if you have an android phone, not sure if iOS has something similar
I have a generic ELM327 bluetooth reader like this BAFX one that I use with an app called torque on my android tablet. I paid $25 for the reader and $5 for the app (there is a free version that can pull codes, the paid version does so much more). It's been amazingly useful but it's not K+CAN so any extended bmw specific stuff (like extended engine check codes) doesn't show up and you can't do coding with it.
On newer-ish BMWs you can pull the code using the BC stalk in control check, but only if the code has already been thrown, where the ODB reader will catch "pending codes."
I got a P0015 code, however if I had a K+CAN cable I probably could have pulled the (what I call) sub-code saying if it was a stuck or non-responding solenoid.
You could always find an OBDII scanner for relatively cheap online and then charge people in the area that you live for scans (craigslist) once you have solved your own problem.
And you are correct. Many problems with vehicles can be a multitude of things. Simple things like noises, when it happens (raining, cold engine, warm engine, etc, etc) can make all the difference.
Edit: Here's a really cool one if your phone is compatible with it
I just bought a truck myself so I'll just share what I did...
I bought a Bluetooth OBDII scanner from Amazon for under $25 and downloaded Torque Pro app for my Android phone. By far one of the best purchases I've ever made. I was able to use the data to negotiate a much better deal on my truck after detecting a few codes (2 cylinder 10 misfires and a high temp warning). After purchase I cleared the codes and they haven't returned once.
It was able to monitor the truck in real time on the test drive instead of relying on the factory gauges or potential dummy lights.
I saved $2400 ($3500-5000 under book) on the asking price. Now keep in mind I bought private party. Most dealers will have cleared any codes on the engine and repaired any issues.
Thanks for the advice!
I didn't know about the Torque app until yesterday. What do you use for your bluetooth adapter? I was considering this one. There's another one that costs about $90 but the reviews for it aren't any better than for this cheaper one. It's basically a serial<->bluetooth converter so shouldn't be too complicated (or expensive). A generic serial<->bluetooth component costs less than $20, so I think that $90 one is probably a rip off.
That led me to do some google searching. Looks like I could buy this $23 bluetooth adapter and keep track of a lot of information in realtime on my phone with this $5 app. Awesome.
either really expensive and you can read almost anything, or cheaper and you can read most things. not much in between. for under $30 you can do the Torq App and an OBDII bluetooth module and see if this does what you need.
Here's a US Amazon Prime link.
There are cheaper options like this one but they aren't as reliable. This genuinely helped me find an issue with my SUV that my mechanic missed the first time.
Edited for clarity. I actually agree with OP.
If every car had a different language, they wouldn't share so many sensors among them. Each VEHICLE manufacturer has it's own standards, those standards are dictated more by their SUPPLIERS (like BORG WARNER) than themselves.
Pieces.. mapped... You are quoting someone who obviously doesn't know more than 100 technical details about automotive technology.... I mean COME ON. These vehicles have to operate similarly. IT IS THE LAW. OBD2 is a FEDERAL EMISSIONS STANDARD.
The cost is high... http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401680372&sr=8-1&keywords=OBD2
The cost for what? Silver solder? a Rasberry PI? An ARDUINO WITH GSM? http://www.amazon.com/SIMCOM-SIM900-Quad-band-Development-Arduino/dp/B00A8DDYB6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1401680514&sr=1-1&keywords=gsm+arduino
Why can you not wrap your head around this?
I went with this one from Amazon to use with Torque Pro. Works great for diagnostics, and I've also used it on long trips where it will show you a map of elevation, speed, etc. during the trip.
Make sure you get a genuine adapter. I have one from a company called BAFX products. The first one I ordered from newegg turned out to be a counterfeit and it would not work. It didn't mess up my car or anything, it just didn't work. I had to buy another one from Amazon which was a genuine product and it works flawlessly.
EDIT: ok who's the wise guy downvoting me?