Reddit's favorite alternatives to bayite BYT-7A014A DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM

It's a recirculating pump with a timer. It's so you don't have to wait for hot water nearly as long. It cycles periodically to keep the water in the hot water lines hot. Typically put in bathrooms far away from the water heater so you don't have to wait minutes for your shower to get hot.

https://www.diamondcertified.org/hot-water-recirculation-pump-benefits/

Looks like you have something very similar to this model: https://www.amazon.com/Laing-LHB08100092-AutoCirc-Recirculation-Timer/dp/B0046MDAK0

You need one of these. It will keep the water hot at a distant tap. It also cuts down on wasted energy heating water that eventually just get cold anyway. Insulating the hot water supply line to the bathroom will help too.

The MkII pump is actually just a "ripoff" as well, if you want to look at it this way. KegLand (AU) did not design or manufacture that pump.

The MkII, the pump in the Grainfather, and many similar looking pumps are all part of the Chinese-made MP-series magnetic drive pump, or knockoffs. There are many manufacturers in China making these. An American company can travel to China or work through an agent in the U.S., EU, AUS/NZ, etc. to contract for a private label pump based on one of this family of pumps. As a part of it, you can choose which pump from this series you want to use as the base model, customize it, get your own decal put on, and then use another agent to have them shipped to your warehouse.

In the case of OP /u/sktyrhrtout, it looks like they made the SS pump head standard equipment rather than an upgrade, and to have a different cord put on (a switched cord). This one's specs seem to indicate it uses less power to get the same flow rate and head, so it's possible the impeller design is a little different. But it's the same or close to the MP-15R pump. Compare this similar product, where the label clearly identifies it as a MP-15RM-110 model pump.

Considering that Amazon protects you from fraud (I think), it seems like a good deal for someone looking for this type of pump. I have a Riptide and a little solar pump, so I'm not in the market.

No that is a recirculation valve, not a mixing valve. It's there to you don't have to wait forever for hot water. They're typically placed on faucets in bathrooms far away from the water heater.

https://www.amazon.com/Laing-LHB08100092-AutoCirc-Recirculation-Timer/dp/B0046MDAK0

https://www.diamondcertified.org/hot-water-recirculation-pump-benefits/

Yep, and in the showers. I'm not sure what happened with the plumbing in this house, but we used to have to turn the shower on full hot, wait 4-5 minutes, then get the temperature right and get in. It took forever and was a huge waste of water. A hot water re-circulation pump and hooked up some automation. No more waiting for hot water anywhere.

^ this holy crap my efficiency went up a lot after just adding rice hulls.

If you got the one without a pump and would like to add a pump you can get this pump for 26$, and upgrade later to something a bit more tolerant of heat. It worked just fine for me for some time, and I've still got it in the drawer as a backup. You'll also see a lot of the reviews are from brewers.

Honestly I love the system the only thing that ever bugs me is it's 16lb max grain capacity with the basket, and it's tendency to scorch during the boil.

If you have access to the pipes behind the bath you could add the bypass valve and a recirculating pump. That's what I did to my bathroom and it's awesome. I put the pump on a smart outlet and tell google to turn on the hot water a few minutes before taking a bath or shower and it's been a hand changer. We no longer run the water for 2-3 minutes just to get hot water. It was super easy to install. I put the bypass valve under the bathroom sink because it was a lot less work then to add it to the bathtub pipes. The sink is only a few feet from the tub. If you have individual pipes running to the sink and run it won't work for you, but my sink and tub are connected to the same hot water pipe from the basement.

This is what I installed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_7MC2KNS6DA383YQMTYZK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Congrats! I too got one for my birthday and have put two all two all-grain batches through it in March. It’s super convenient but even with all the reading and YouTubing I did before using there was still a bit of a learning curve.

If you did not get the version with the built in pump, I would highly recommend getting pump recommended on amazon to help with recirculation during mash. I had a pretty difficult time the first time since I had decided not to use it. I noticed the built-in sensor kicking on the heating element on even though I was measuring a correct mash temp. On the second brew day I used the pump and the heating element did not kick on as much.

If you are using the amazon pump, I’d also recommend running it with the valve 50-75% open or to have the tube reach into the mash. I slightly modified my lid by drilling out the hole in the top to fit a 3/8” stainless barbed elbow. This was done to avoid kinking of the silicone tubing and to be able to keep the lid on during mash. The problem I ran into by doing this is the flow from the pump was too high and the splashing cause a foam to build up. The foam easily rose to the top with some bits of grain and husks, and could have easily spilled over the sides of the basket. I noticed this about 30 minutes into the mash and adjusted the valve to lower thr flow. I will likey test adding 6-12” of tubing on the other end of thr elbow so that the tube end is in the mash and not above to cause splashing.

My mashes have been full immersion using a bag and I’m temped to sparge with it to see if I can get more efficiency above 75%.

I'd recommend the Watt's kit. Watt is a good name brand.

Your sink and shower have water-saving flow limits (usually under 3gpm). It can take a long time for them to pass enough water to clear the the pipes of the room temperature water (that cooled standing in the pipes between uses) so you start getting hot water from the heater.

There are a three solutions.

The easiest thing is to turn on the tub hot and let it run until hot. That will bring the hot water from the tank, and your sink and shower will be warm within a few seconds.

You can install a shunt that lets cold water in the hot water pipe go into the cold line, and put a pump at the hotwater heater. The drawback is these make your cold water side run tepid (from the warm water you've dumped into the cold pipe) for a few minutes. When the tepid water flushes out your pipes and the cold arrives, your shower is going to go COLD until you readjust the temperature. (My wife hated ours so much I had to take it out.) (LINK)

You can install a separate return hot line and install a recirculating pump. This is what hotels with large industrial water heaters have. You continually circulate hot water through the main pipe so when someone turns on a faucet anywhere along the line they get hot water fast. These consume more energy, because the water in the pipes is continually cooling, so you have to reheat it. Also, running the pipe can be a major expense and hassle because the pipes are are in the walls.

I ran that for years. My process was to heat strike water in my kettle (also I only have one burner), go 10 degrees above dough in, pump to mash tun and mash in. I generally heated more water than needed because I would then top up to my full hot liquor tank volume in that same kettle, bring up to 180 or more and then transfer over.

The problem comes when you go to sparge and run off. You can certainly pump the wort into the kettle, but you'll be pulling hard on the grain bed (depending on the pump). Then batch sparging by using that pump to pump more water into the mash tun. A 3-way ball valve may work, hooked up to the inlet of the pump so that you have two options to switch where the flow is coming from. Probably want an 3-way on the outlet as well to direct to either the kettle or mash tun.

I ended up buying a small pump on Amazon meant for solar water heaters to pump my wort to kettle. Main pump is used to "fly sparge" as I do so. Works well! But I didn't do that for YEARS of doing something similar to what you're envisioning.

Several amazon sellers stock them for similar prices, here's one example. I've seen them cheaper without the AC adapter. Plenty of reviews on there.

To parallel a couple of the other commenters, I have the M&B (no built-in pump) for about a year and a half and a half now and love it. It's very no-frills, especially compared to the Anvil or Grainfather, but you're also paying a much smaller price, leaving more funds for hops and other fun tools. I haven't tried the Robobrew for a brew, but I've checked one out while not in use, and it strikes me as just about the same at the M&B in terms of build quality.

I got a couple of the ubiquitous bayite pumps from Amazon and an inline controller for each, which I much prefer to having a built-in pump that would be harder to swap out in case of mechanical failure.

I'm using this pump. It's pretty nice.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076TGWYDK

Self priming, built in pressure switch shutoff, functions closer to a centrifugal and not a true PD pump. Flow backs down as you throttle it. Which is fine for this application. Can generate a smaller warmer stream which might be nice for the waterfall.

My tap water and ice taste SO BAD...

I'm looking at this $80 pump thing they sell on Amazon to pump 5 gallon bottled water to the icemaker and disconnecting it from the house plumbing completely.

We already use bottled water (from a water station, .25/gal) for making coffee, tea, etc.

I'm limiting the ice in my soda's to like 2 or 3 cubes because it "contaminates" the taste of my beloved Dr. Pepper.

I swear to god when I brushed my teeth yesterday the tap water smelled like sewer.

Sun City, FWIW.

My favourite related scenario was when purchasing sent me some links to alternatives for a product I submitted a purchase request for because they found some cheaper options when they googled for it.

This: https://quantummicrowave.com/product/44-8-ghz-cryogenic-isolator-or-circulator/

vs.

This: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196WL55G/ref=emc_b_5_i

It looks like a connection for a hot water circulation pump. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Instant-Recirculating-Install/dp/B000E78XHG

When the pump runs it send hot water down the cold line to get the hot to the tap faster. It's a work around that requires less pluming. Usually the under sink connection is made on the fixture that is located farthest from the water heater.

I have had one of these for a few years. Absolutely love it.

Watts Premier Instant Hot Water Recirculating Pump System with Built-In Timer 6" X 6" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_CVDYZE31XSKT9ANHGSZF

The easiest and cheapest solution is to get heat wrap cable for your piping. If your building is anything like mine was in Chicago, the outside spigot is fed through a pipe that can be found in the basement. Even better if you put pipe insulation over the heat wrap cable. Get an outside spigot cover, plug in the heat wrap cable in the morning for a few minutes and you should be good to go. I wouldn't worry about the pipes bursting honestly If they were going to burst, they'd do it regardless of if you're using the spigot or not.

The expensive and PITA option is to get a water tank like an IBC tote. Once filled you can find "stock tank heaters" or "tank deicers" which are typically used on farms to heat the water just above freezing level for animals. You will more than likely have to use a pump to feed your PW with this option however. Personally, I use and recommend the link below. It's an on-demand pump with an adjustable pressure switch. I've had mine for a year and half and it lives inside my truck and hasn't failed me yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001FAA5Y

Definitely go for it - I have a boiler with an indirect hot water tank (so the water is heated via a heat exchanger coil from the boiler) - that was a good upgrade because it’s similar to a tankless HWH as far as being able to keep up real time while at the same time keeping hot water in reserve. (My tank is a Burnham Alliance SL50.)

That being said - my house is old and it takes several/many minutes for hot water to arrive at my furthest bathroom. Even without automation, knowing that I can recirc to get hot water to the fixtures rather than just running all that water down the drain is better overall and when I leave it on - I know I’m probably incurring some energy costs but I haven’t noticed any change in my gas bill, but it is totally worth it for immediate hot water at the tap.

Not an endorsement but this is the one I have because it doesn’t require a separate recirculating line since I was retrofitting and couldn’t install a separate loop.

Laing LHB08100092 AutoCirc Recirculation Pump with Timer https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0046MDAK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1QWHF47KQAD9RGR1GGNB

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E78XHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Only have had it for a year, but we have had zero issues. Reduced hot water time from a few minutes to 15 seconds. Yes, the tap water at the bathroom sink is warm when you first go for cold water, but it cools down pretty quickly.

Install is very easy, took me 1/2 hour, needed two fittings which cost about $20.

I don't know any that detects temperature in the way that you had in mind. But this should do what you want: https://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Instant-Recirculating-Install/dp/B000E78XHG

Keep in mind, recirculators are a huge waste of energy if you're trying to maintain constant hot water at all times. Once water leaves the tank, it immediately cools. Half the length of your furthest faucet will need to be replaced with hot water. Assume you have a 50 gallon tank and it's 1 gallon of water that is replaced. That's 2% of the hot water tank that's "lost" because you wanted instant hot water. This in turn means your hot water tank will run more often than needed, thus decreasing the life of the tank.

The button option helps save water and can give you "instant hot water" if you plan ahead. Press the button before you start using the toilet. Press the button before you start getting undressed for a shower. If you need to wash your hands right away, then you'll have to suffer through some cold water.

I bought this pump, bayite BYT-7A015 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1W7524DKGYWH039HT8PY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1, and attached some heat resistant tubing. If it flows to fast I just turn off the pump. Pretty simple really.

If you want to do a strong whirlpool the Riptide is the ticket. For what it is worth, I quit using my Riptide for the Anvil when I bought my Anvil Foundry. I do like the built in throttling valve on the Riptide but the Anvil is fine for small batch brewing, is lighter, easier to clean, takes up less space, and makes for an easier brew day. Lately I have been playing with this pump with a speed pot wired in to the circuit. I am able to slow the pump down to eliminate the pinch valve valve. It works very well.
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1IU4JM7D6URE6&keywords=solar+recirculation+pump&qid=1637837640&qsid=136-8274620-6963616&sprefix=sumo+box+with+pump%2Caps%2C141&amp...

LPT: Install a recirculating pump at your water heater and then the sensor valve at the farthest sink from your water heater. Water will get up to temp much faster afterwards.

They already do, it's called a ShowerMi$er It's mainly for the RV crowd so you aren't wasting fresh water, it recirculates into your fresh tank but the same thing can be done at home. Or just get a water recirc valve put into your home so hot water is constantly circulating so you don't have to wait the minutes it takes for hot water to get from your tank to your shower.

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What about this product? https://www.amazon.com/SEAFLO-Industrial-Water-Pressure-Outlet/dp/B076TGWYDK/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Water+Booster+Pump&qid=1629953447&sr=8-5

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I definitely do not want to have to get an expansion pump!

Honestly I used This guy for quite a while at 26$ before I upgraded a ~50$ pump, and it's still in good shape. The one you linked is totally up to snuff for homebrewing uses.

If all you need is 300gph (which is about 5gpm), just get a sprayer pump. They have an integrated pressure switch that will activate the pump when the pressure drops, like when someone sprays water out of the hose. Here's an example https://www.amazon.com/SEAFLO-Industrial-Water-Pressure-Outlet/dp/B076TGWYDK/.

You can get ones that run off 12v or 120v, higher GPM or lower, whatever you need. Then just rig in a power cut off to the float switch that will cut power to the pump when the water drops below a certain level.

I used a seaflo pump. SEAFLO 33-Series Industrial Water Pressure Pump w/Power Plug for Wall Outlet - 115VAC, 3.3 GPM, 45 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076TGWYDK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QY1896431TVAPX9VV4BS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Also added a small inline filter: Remes Filter Attachment Garden Hose Pressure Washer Pump Inlet Water Metal Outdoor Gardening, Sediment Filter 3/4 40 mesh https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071489NG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WRY3D7ENQQQT8WAH4ZM5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

These little transfer pumps are workhorses,, are quiet and efficient. You can spend much less than what this one costs and they come in 12volt options as well. https://www.amazon.com/WAYNE-PC4-Multi-Purpose-Suction-Strainer/dp/B0002YQUBM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?adgrpid=55725766973&dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwytOEBhD5ARIsANnRjViy_aDCTZChyrm0R658kh2khJhnsPsYwAEJrbmmF5WRkZd2WEvfc5YaAlsAEALw_wcB&hvadid=2747480...

I actually bought a pump from Amazon that I have yet to try that takes a hose attachment. I am considering attaching it to the drain to suck the water out of the tub through its drain attachment and push it into my drain system. I can’t endorse the idea yet because I haven’t tried it, but it should speed up draining dramatically.

WAYNE PC4 1/2 HP Cast Iron Multi-Purpose Pump With Suction Strainer, Model:55832 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YQUBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_782ZDJJEN2H7YBRCCMHY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Can you take it back those goofy under sink stuff fails.

I would recommend dropping and outlet under the sink your trying to serve and get one of these Laing LHB08100092 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046MDAK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_NG6SRCR1VGD52CCG7WX9

As an alternative to those, I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_HP3N2XZPC4H3V3924WVB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It circulates the hot water through the system and is very effective at keeping the pipes from freezing. I added a temperature controlled relay that only turns on when the temp outside is low enough to warrant it. This was a great option for lines buried in walls I did not want to open up.

Most likely frozen pipes.

I have 170year old home. If you can rerun them, that would be best. If you can't look into getting a recirculating pump.

It's what I use. Put the "sensor" at the farthest point in your water system. It will keep hot water at the taps, and drop warm water back down the cold.

It's saved me from frozen pipes.

Plumb it in my brother, you won't regret it. If there is no water line close by you can get the flo jet (I think its called) it connects to any 5 gallon water bottle and creates line pressure. here is one i found on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Dispenser-Dispensing-Compatible-Dispensers-Refrigerators/dp/B07QZJXPX1/

a recirculation pump will solve this problem and is a very quick and easy installation. this is the one i have

it installs on top of your water heater, lines should just screw together, and it circulates water to keep hot water at the tap. It has an analog timer so you can set it to run only during times you need it, but I just plugged mine into a smart plug and used my home automation to control it

Oh. Cool. I think I can do that with mine. I have this one:

Watts Premier Instant Hot Water Recirculating Pump System with Built-In Timer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X8BA7VHRVJ794WVARREK

There are plenty of center-line pumps that have 1/2" NPT threads on both inlet and outlet, I would know - I'm using one.

If you're using a pump you're going to want to move to quick disconnects for your liquid lines anyway, but I agree it's easier to pick one that has 1/2" openings on both ends, particularly because the QDs come cheaper when buying in pairs.

You could insulate it but my recommendation would be to get a hot water recirculating pump. They’re about $200 but it keeps hot water at every tap in your house.

Watts Premier Instant Hot Water Recirculating Pump System with Built-In Timer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_bevZFbG45ZKN3

Actually 1/2” pipe is an advantage, it holds 1/2 the water volume per foot than 3/4 and a 1/4 of the water volume per foot than 1”. Source Flow rate doesn’t change appreciably, however with larger pipes there is much more cold water that must be displaced before hot water arrives.

Less costly than the full hot water loops systems are the single pipe recirculating systems. They work using a valve that uses the cold pipe as a return. They have there pros and cons tho, I installed the system because our kitchen sink was a full 2 minutes to hot water. Works great but wastes energy. Also the special thermostatic valve is crappy, worked great for 6 months but developed hard water deposits that cause it not to close which has the side effect of making the cold water side hot. Solved that with some home automation magic to turn the pump off instead. So we waste less water and waste less time waiting, but waste more energy heating water that cools in the pipe.

Since we’re going old school... Any ideas on quiet pumps? I got the guy in the link below but it whines at like 50 dB.

bayite BYT-7A006 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump Low Noise 3M Discharge Head 2.1GPM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196WL55G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_ZJwUFbBGCXQGR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QZJXPX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the one in the Amazon link below. HomeBrew Finds found a deal on fittings from Pro Flow Dynamics, and that's where I bought the ball valves and other fittings.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

What's the pump people use for recirculating the mash on the Brewer's Edge system? This one is the one Amazon is recommending with the Brewer's Edge, and it seems like a good deal.

I just bought a hot water recirculation pumpfor about 175.00 on Amazon. Got it and installed it yesterday. It's an intermediate level install but if you read the directions and have proper tools, you can install it just fine. Anyway, I also have the pump connected to a smart outlet which I can turn on with my phone whenever I want hot water at the tap without running the water. Let it run for about 5 minutes before you use, or set it on a schedule. It's so worth it!

Not stiring. You do not want to upset the grainbed. The pump pulls liquid from the bottom and moves it to the top gently to continuously move hot water over the grain. One thing these companies do not tell you is that the bottom will be hotter than the top, despite their best intentions.

The thermometer and the heating element are on the bottom and so the further up you get the more heat loss you have. By recirculating you are providing for a uniform temperature within the mash. An external pump that will connect to the ball-valve will also work as it will make it easy and efficient for you to not only circulate but also to sparge when draining.

Many people recommend this cheap hot water pump on Amazon. I myself bought it for recirculation as the price was lower. While I am 30-40 brews in and it does recirculate a constant 160 degree's with ease, it has crapped out on me once due to it getting two hot. I have found a good way to prevent that is to freeze one or two one liter coke bottles full of water and just sandwich the pump between them. No issues since that and it saved me a few hundred as well.

Also, just as a consideration and my own two cents, I would give my left pinky toe if the Mash and Boil had a 220v conversion. Some do, I do not believe the robobrew can be converted.

I got one of these recently and it's worked out for me so far. I have yet to attempt an IPA with it since I got it though, so YMMV with a ton of hop particulate in the wort. I am attempting a SMaSH with 5oz of hops in the kettle this weekend though, so I can definitely report back.

That said, the pump was definitely adequate to push wort through the counterflow and back into my whirlpool arm, though it is the same 19L/min flow rate you say you're having trouble with. Upgrading to a Chugger or Riptide pump might be something worth thinking about?

That is the complicated swanky way to do it, but I'm not that fancy. ;)

The recirculation pump I got has a hot water valve to stick under a sink. This way the cold supply line becomes your return line. The valve is open until the water gets hot, then it closes so you don't end up with hot water in the cold line. It's not perfect - you'll get a bit of warmish water in the cold line especially at the sink you have the valve on, but that's never been a problem for us.

If you don't need precise dosing (or can DIY something), you can use an inexpensive solar hot water recirculation pump like this one: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0

So many pumps..... Looking for a good option that won't break the bank, for recirculating and transfer. Has anyone used this pump? - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073P19L8P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5cYDFb848JA80 I think I'm in analysis paralysis

Can you find this brand locally? https://www.amazon.com/SEAFLO-Industrial-Water-Pressure-Outlet/dp/B076TGWYDK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=seaflo+120v+water+pump&qid=1597121187&sprefix=seaflo+12

The ones you picked look a little different. I think my pick is what you need. I've used them in several similar applications.

Try amazon smile to donate to charity automatically at no cost to you!
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I do this and it works pretty well. Very easy to add more ice/ice packs as needed during chilling. Cheap aquarium/fountain pumps can be had on Amazon for ~$10-$15US, or for a few dollars more, a solar hot water pump. I just 'upgraded' to one of these and it has enough head pressure to move cold water from the bottom of the sink, up over the top of my electric kettle, and through the immersion chiller, all while the kettle is still on the kitchen counter.

You need some sort of pump, such as this recirculating pump.

You might be able to get away with something like a pond pump, depending on how high up the roof is compared to the supply tank. But you'd need some sort of external timing mechanism so you're not pumping cold water into the tank a night and in the morning. Possibly something Pi-based so you can tie it to a couple of thermometers?

I was looking into one of these but am not convinced of it's effectiveness. I am also worried about the cost involved with continuously reheating the circulating water.

Also, not exactly related, but if you do decide to upgrade your rig to recirculating, it's not that expensive for a no-name chinese pump: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hot+water+pump&qid=1574359338&sr=8-5

I personally would recirculate hot wort through any cold-side or hot-to-cold side hardware if possible.

Also in re chillers, I put my chiller in to the boil with 15 minutes remaining, and pause the boil clock until it returns to boiling temperatures. Needs time to heat sanitize that as well.

Do you find it easy to brew 5 gallon batches in the brewers edge? I was actually looking at getting the brewers edge without the pump and getting a cheaper hot water pump and some tubing and using that to recirculate - something like this

If you or anyone else on the thread has tried this and could say speak about how well that would work I’d love some feedback.

Two things that I currently use with my Mash & Boil system:

Immersion Chiller - I purchased this and love it. They also have a copper version, if you'd prefer.

Recirculation pump - This + some silicone tubing of the proper size/length, and you can give yourself a nice efficiency bump, especially if you do full volume mashes. Might want to look into getting a ball valve to put on the output of the pump, too, so that it doesn't run itself dry.

bayite BYT-7A015 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fphaCbPTYYWHJ

Not the best but it works fine. Isn't self priming though.

With the exception of that crack, it's great. I also got this pump and a hose for moving wort. The control panel is on the ground so that's kind of annoying, but it works fine for me. I'd agree with what other people say about it; it takes a while to come to temperature, when holding a temperature it swings a bit, and you have to watch the screws on the Mash tube or else it might fall over. I might get it replaced, but I might just fix it. The ring was sturdy enough, and it wasn't bending or anything.

I've been using both for FG calculation. I don't fear an infection per se, but it's kind of annoying when my 5% beer turns into a 6-7% beer. I can't taste any off flavors though, and the beer I've made has been well received. Might try the bleach trick anyway just to make sure.

Yeah, thinking on that I was wondering if that would be totally feasible. I mean, I know I CAN fill 5 gallon bottles, but is its longevity for StarSan worth it?

What I was thinking of doing was getting a pump like these for one and pumping into my spray bottle that I keep around for StarSan. Would the "distilled" water from the 5 gallon stay "pure" enough over time? I wonder.

I have a couple of cheap, 5gal collapsible with spigots for use around camp... they are very difficult to carry with more than 4gal in them. They work OK for me, but I wouldn't recommend them, especially if you're going to be using it inside a trailer. We leave them tipped over with the spigot down and haven't had a problem with leaks, but we're outside and don't need to worry about it leaking all over.

My friend brings a 5gal round "office water cooler" jug, and has a manual pump that sits on top (not that one but something like it). There are also battery operated pumps which I haven't tried but might be nice. Though if you can't tip over the bottle, you may want to have a spare manual pump as a backup.

I've seen many grocery stores with pre-filled bottles or refill stations. If I had room in my sedan I'd probably do this over filling my collapsible containers at the campsite.

I used this one for the better part of a year and it did it's job. It's not very strong, but it will give you a decent little whirl if you have a good return valve.

I saw some people arguing this one might not be food safe but then I saw other people say it was. I never experienced anything negative in that regard.

I never used mine for a chiller as I just used it for whirlpool. I can't imagine the difference wouldn't be much though.

I haven't had a problem getting 70ish efficiency with my mash and boil on just whatever crush the LHBS does. I've just figured that's around where my efficiency is because I tend to hit the numbers on recipes I plug into brewer's friend pretty closely, but they also have a calculator on their site.

One thing, be careful when sparging because the little legs that hold the grain basket up are just tiny bolts. First time I used it I had 13 pounds of waterlogged grain fall back into the hot wort and make quite a hot sticky mess. You can probably replace these bolts with longer ones and I've been meaning to try that

Also watch out for stuff burning onto the bottom. You might want to get a pump like this and filter/vorlauf your wort before boiling, or occasionally stir the boil, because I have had stuff burn on pretty thick which one time set off the ER4 code which shuts down the M&B unless you can hit a tiny button on the very bottom -- not recommended when full of hot wort

Anyone use one of these? Wondering if it is okay to use for only water or water and sanitizer/oxiclean? I wouldn't pump wort through it, just the sparge water and cleaning solutions.

Thanks!

Would you recommend something like this instead?

I use this little $25 pump: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_weJuAbQVCQAJS

I like just setting it and leaving it to whirlpool on its own for 30min while I can get started on clean up.

thanks for the reply, I actually looked into the "little brown pumps" and found this guy that seems pretty perfect.

the reason I ask is because I'm looking at upgrading to an electric brewing system and the mash & boil seemed like a nice cheap alternative to robobrew or grainfather, so with the screens included in it then hopefully debris won't be much of a problem.

my only concern was if I'd be able to replicate the pump for cheaper than the difference in cost between M&B and robobrew.

Yes, I've added hot water to the keg before to help it dissolve. It helps, but still requires a fair bit of stirring.

I figured that I'd just add some pressure to the keg and bleed the pump outlet side in order to prime it.

I actually have one of these diaphragm pumps sitting around in the garage; I might try that.

$80 for the pump on amazon, Foxx sells them for way more than they're worth. but you can get submersible ones for even cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001FAA5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=RMQ6B8R1O540&coliid=I3O2VQVIO4BUHA

Thanks. How does the tank figure out how much cold water to mix in there to get the correct temperature? The temperature setting is all the way at the bottom of the tank.

For the pump, would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built-/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475431166&sr=8-1&keywords=recirculating+hot+water+pump

I brew 5 gallon batches in a 10.5 gallon kettle, and I brew outdoors on a 65,000 BTU burner. I use this false bottom so I can direct fire during the mash. I modulate the amount of heat manually, the amount I need to re-heat the mash depends on weather and how often I pull the lid off.

I also use this pump to recirculate during the mash, it really helps keep the temps even throughout and it gives me a nice boost in efficiency.

I'm going to advise against this completely because it's not going to work, unless I'm completely misunderstanding what you wrote.

The water needs to be constantly circulating or it's going to get cold. If it only circulates for x time after someone opens a tap, they're still going to have to wait for the new hot water to get to the faucet.. and then the extra circulation will continue after they shut off the water.. which is just wasting energy since nobody is actually using the water.

It will be: open tap - wait for cold water to get hot - shut off tap after getting hot water - hot water fills the domestic hot lines, and then cools off because nobody is using it anymore.. and that seems to defeat the purpose completely?

You either need a small pump that is constantly circulating the water or, probably the best bet, is buying a small insta-hot for whatever location you want hot water. If you want it everywhere.. then try: something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built-In/dp/B000E78XHG

I have no experience designing systems for residential, but I make a living designing plumbing for industrial/commercial/superconductor/hospitals, etc.. so I don't know jack about who makes decent quality systems for the home.

Maybe some kind of hot water circulation system, so you always have hot water when you turn the faucet on. Most of them seem a lot more complicated than that though. http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built-In/dp/B000E78XHG

We take one of those 5 gallon water hugs from the grocery store, but carry it empty. Fill it at camp, then we use a pump to make hand washing, and bottle filling super easy. I'll never camp without it.

I bought this one several years ago. (Was only $99 then) It's still going strong. Routinely empty my barrels on the downspouts into the 3 that I have in my garden ~50' away and 4 feet up on a platform. It will push about 40 gals. of water in ~5-10 min.