What is Reddit's opinion of Befenybay Upgrade 2020 Profile X-axis Synchronous Belt Stretch Straighten Tensioner for Creality Ender-3/Ender3 Pro/Ender3 V2/CR-10/ CR-10 V2/ CR-10 V3/CR-20 Pro (2020-1, Black)?

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I'd try bending before anything else. The angle being wrong will likely lead to belt wear and possibly to print issues. Or, you could replace both sides with this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087YWMHM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_pYP3FbDARRHM6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This happened to me too. I ordered these which solved the issue:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087YWMHM2?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2\_dt\_b\_product\_details

 

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If you're looking to splurge a little bit this is what I did: Hiwin linear rails (1x mgn121h×450, 2x mgn91hx450, to use with the adapters below) https://m.robotdigg.com/product/671/HIWIN-Origin-Miniature-Guideway-Narrow-Linear-Rail#

Printermods linear rail adapters (I had to shave a bit off the y axis brackets with a grinder as they're made for mgn91c but I couldn't find a supplier for those) https://printermods.com/collections/3d-printer-linear-rail-kits/products/y-axis-linear-rail-adapters-ender-3-ender-5-cr-10 https://printermods.com/collections/3d-printer-linear-rail-kits/products/ender-5-x-axis-linear-adapter-kit-for-mdd-v1-2

I also picked up new gates belts https://printermods.com/collections/3d-printer-gt2-belts/products/gates-2gt-gt2-belt-for-ender-3-ender-5-and-cr-10

As well as some belt tensioners (2020-1) Befenybay Upgrade 2020 Profile X-axis Synchronous Belt Stretch Straighten Tensioner for Creality Ender-3/Ender3 Pro/Ender3 V2/CR-10/ CR-10 V2/ CR-10 V3/CR-20 Pro (2020-1, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087YWMHM2/

The upgrade was pretty easy, but make sure that everything is square because its VERY easy to put something on slanted. If you have a pair of calipers it makes it easier to ensure the rails are straight across the extrusion and that the x gantry is square to the frame. You can also find mgn9 and mgn12 2020 extrusion alignment tools to print on thingiverse, I'm pretty sure I saw an x gantry alignment tool as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087YWMHM2

Yeah, my retraction sits at 0.8mm

For ABS, I print that on my Prusa in its enclosure. I don't think i'm going to enclose the E5P, although it doesnt look terribly hard with its frame, because I really don't think i'd print anything in ABS that wouldn't fit on the Prsua.

As far as other mods. IMO get the Golf Coast or MS all-metal hotend next. It'll make life so much easier not having to worry about the PTFE deforming or clogs forming between em. It also makes it a much smoother flow so you get cleaner prints.

I would also replace the Y tensioners with these if you want to increase printing speeds. the stock rollers tend to make the belts skip at higher speeds, tightening them to where it doesn't happen causes layer shifts as they are just overtightened. these rollers are geared so that doesn't happen.

My E5P came with a bent Y tensioner of the right side from shipping. Other people posted having a similar problem, no amount of bending fixed it, but these are great for keeping the belts from rubbing or skipping.

As far as the board, I tried the SKR Turbo, Mini, and E3 Turbo.

I wouldn't recommend the SKR Turbo, although it is more powerful, there really isn't a need for the extra horsepower. Furthermore, you need to make new SD card & USB port holes in the enclosure to access the ports.

If you are fine with shared Z, get the mini. all of them provides at least a 5x performance boost versus the stock 8 bit board and thats all you will ever need.

I am currently using the E3 Turbo, which is still overkill for the processing power. I had to grab plyers and bend one of the screen standoffs a bit to get the board to fit. But it allows me to have independent Z steppers (a must for me now!), and use the stock USB and sd slots. If you are fine with cutting off, or bending, that stand-off. get the E3 Turbo. The SKR pro is just more effort and modification which can look ugly and might not be perfectly lined up.

If you do get the E3 Turbo, I initially had an issue with stepper motors overheating on longer prints. It's a hardware issue with it which needs to be addressed in a revision but the issue was not covering the +5v pin on the USB cable, and the printer adding the power from the USB port to the stepper currents. Easy fix, but don't forget or you might damage your steppers and your prints will be garbage.

As far as Klipper... Stick to Marlin. I tried Klipper and was underwhelmed. I looked over the source and there are a few places where I don't agree with the implementation. Their implementation of G2/G3 arc support is a good example of what I am talking about.