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If I’m not using platinum-md over usb I have one of these...
Behringer UCA202 U-Control Ultra low-latency 2 In/2 Out USB/Audio Interface
Turns out it’s the ideal MD accessory 🥰
Yes, the front-panel headphone output will work, and it won't "fry" anything.
But it would be preferable to use the "TAPE OUT" on the back of your Rotel RA-810A. That is the designated "clean" line-level output from that amplifier.
However, your U-Phoria UM2 interface does not appear to have stereo line-level inputs. You may need an interface with stereo line-level inputs like Behringer UCA-202.
Thanks! I'll look into this - this looks like a great solution.
I actually have an old audio interface I haven't used that only has RCA inputs. It is a Behringer UCA202:
After looking at the comments in the reviews it looks like some people have run dynamic microphones through the RCAs using and XLR to RCA adapter cable. I just ordered one to see if it works for now until I can get an interface with a knob like that Presonus one. This one just has volume and monitor on/off.
Apart from the lack of controls, I'm not sure if the lack of any kind of preamp is going to mean that the microphone signal is weaker than it was using when it used USB. I don't think actual phantom power is necessary since this is a dynamic microphone.
From what it sounds, a solid interface would be a good investment and offer more long term flexibility. Hopefully this old one I have at least sort of works.
Ok, I'm wondering if the cord is the problem. Was just looking through the description and it says "This cable does not transfer data, it is only for viewing images." So I think that may be the problem. The link is something I've seen talked about on other posts. Does anyone know if that is for sure what I need? Don't wanna spend $100 for it if it won't work for me. Is there a more budget friendly option?
Several USB audio interfaces feature SPDIF (RCA) and/or Toslink (optical) outputs. For example: Behringer UCA-202 has optical (Toslink) output. The digital outputs are straight out of the computer, they do not go through any DAC.
What are your current headphones?
Consider saving up for a separate $100 headphone amp and $100 DAC for when you buy the Sennheiser HD 6XX or similar.
Use this until then, Behringer U-Control UCA202 $29, with your current headphones.
The laptop audio input should be stereo, not mono, search your laptops specs and audio input instructions. Mono may only be for a headset or earbud microphone.
Or use an ADC, Behringer U-Control UCA202 Ultra-Low Latency 2 In/2 Out USB Audio Interface with Digital Output [link]
The best and maybe the cheapest way to do this is with a USB interface like this. You can feed it into a stereo line input on the board, feed main or monitor outputs to it. Only one cable to the computer, small enough to mount on the back of the board.
Why do you need a soundcard? Do you not have 3.5mm out? Or use USB.
Did you already by a $400 Sonos Beam? If yes and you can't return it, get a Behringer U-Control UCA202 USB Audio Interface with Digital Optical Output $30. If not, get a better and less expensive pair of bookshelf speakers, powered or passive with a mini amp or receiver and a separate subwoofer for 2.1. Reply for recommendations. What is your budget? Under $400?
Verify that it’s not the headphones. If it isn’t, either use the other port (on the back) or grab a usb interface (like this: [link]).
I have 2 versions of these, I use them to run audio out of my laptop when I play edrums.
I can get down to 64 samples latency and for the price I won't cry if they get broken when I'm playing somewhere
I admittedly know very little about audio. I'm assuming the one you mentioned before, this, [link]
is both an amp and a dac? And if so, do I need to specifically buy audio cables of some sort?
I think you still need a guitar to computer interface. Just plugging in without one usually does not work. Something like this.
"twice" as good depends on your definition of twice, we all weigh different aspects of sound quality differently. Though I've found that a $500 system is the golden spot where you get the most bang for your buck! Weighing both comfort, flexibility as in what the amp is able to power, frequency response and resolve for the system as a whole. You can spend a little more or a little less depending on what you want, but after the $500 dollar mark I've found nothing really impresses quite as much as the jump from nothing or just a simple entry level Digital Audio Player to a system with a quality full size headphone [like the HD 6xx, or DT 880 or AKG K701/K7XX ect...] along with dedicated digital audio converter and headphone amp.
That said, if your coming from just the M40Xs [amazing headphones] depending on how much you value resolve and imaging, or the addition of small details that last for fractions of a second, then yea the HD 6XX and an amp maybe sound twice as good or resolve twice as many of those little fractional second details as the M40X does. Though I'd maybe look at getting even a basic dac like the Behringer UCA 202 in addition to the Magni 3, to REALLY get the most bang for your dollar.
Hi, i currently have a Marantz PM6005, connected to KEF Q300s with just the phono stage from a turntable. I am looking to connect my laptop to the receiver either with an external DAC or with the internal DAC.
Would the internal DAC in the receiver be better than connecting via RCA with something like this?
Are there any other recommended DACs/USB-Optical adaptors that could work well? (budget around 100-150)
Also, what would be a recommended way to connect my phone to the receiver via bluetooth?
Thanks in advance.
Best way of going from PC to AVR without using HDMI? I'm using a monitor with the AVR for a HDMI switch but PC will be on separate input on monitor.
Is the Behringer UCA202 the best cheap option? Would I be best using the optical output into the AVR or using the RCAs from the DAC?
I just use a $30 DAC that powers both my headphones and speakers so that I can use both or just one of them at a time. This prevents having to change the output in software because it is all over one usb input into the computer. Also improves sound quality. You can buy much higher quality DACS and many editors do, but on a budget this one works just fine.
How about from the Amazon.de page? Also, Amazon.nl doesn't have much of a selection, so if you could link some more popular sites up there, that would help a lot with recommendations.
You just need a RCA to 3.5mm adapter for mic in. Clean DAC, low powered amp stage - I'm not certain about how hard superlux is to drive. The behringer drove my IEMS well but had bass distortion on my planar and high impedance headphones.
Thank you for the feedback! The Behringer U-Control that I have is the silver colored one, like this one...[link]
My keyboard is connected to a Xenyx mixer, the mixer is connected to the macbook via the U-Control. I suppose I have to add the U-Control to my Cubase Input through Device Set up first? I don't have any MIDI connection, I believe this is purely digital connection, no MIDI connections.
Your idea about getting a usb to optical is excellent, I had never realized that was an option. A few questions:
1) USB DACs don't require drivers or anything right?
2) Hows this? [link]
It would work better than what you recommended
3) How do the Kanto Yumi and Edifier R1850DB compare?
A DAC is a fine solution and it's super cheap. Your problem could be fixed by Monday afternoon if you have PRIME!
The only other thing I woudl check is, turn the volume down to 75% on the computer, and turn the volume up on the rokits a bit. Maybe your sound out from the computer is dirty.
the emotiva a-100 only have rca inputs so you'll need either a 3,5 to rca cable to connect it directly to your pc or you can use an usb dac like the behringer UCA202 and use it's rca outputs to connect the emotiva amp
yeah you might want to look in to grabbing a cheap usb interface and use your cdjs then :) something like this would help
EDIT: i originally had the traktor audio 2 on here but that one might not let you go in from the mixer to record on the PC. i am not sure it's been a while since i used one...
Okay so I think I found something: [link] but how can I know how low it really is? When they say ultra low, that sounds pretty low to me..... Any educated guestimations of what kind of low delays are possible with this compared to what you get with a generic ASIO driver like ASIO4all or FL Studio asio?
Looking for something actually good to replace my current set of cheap-ish on-ears, and take my first step in to the world of decent audio. I'm currently torn between the HD 558 and the HD 598 Cs, which are at the moment at exactly the same price on Amazon. I've read around, and from what I've seen a pair of open 598s would beat the 558s - but I'm assuming the fact that these are the closed-back 598s would complicate that somewhat. Assuming that sound leak is no issue and that I'll (for now at least) be using this cheapo DAC thing to give a little step up from onboard sound, which would be the better purchase?
Assuming the mixer doesn't have a USB soundcard and USB out, pick up a Behringer UCA202 for $30 on Amazon. Has RCA in, RCA, headphone, and optical out. I use it for livestreaming audio from my mixer's booth out and can also be used to record in Audacity or whatever recording software you want.
This is like the one I use. Good sturdy build quality overall and probably won't need anything more expensive for at home non-professional applications. I probably spent around 25$. You will need adapters for the the audio Jaxs though.
Ok, this is easy. You have a remote to choose which input to play music from.
Plug your turntable (phono preamp output) into the RCA input.
Plug a 3.5mm aux cable from your computer into the 3.5mm input if you want to have your computer do the digital-analog conversion. If you want your speakers to do that, you need something that will allow you to go from USB to TOSLINK optical, like this ([link])
I actually came to this thread thinking I'd be recommending REAPER with the ASIO4All drivers as that's what I've used on Windows for years now. To see this is what you're using already is confusing. What interface are you using? How do you have the ASIO buffer set?
I have a U-Connect that my monitors are plugged into and I had a Scarlett Solo as an input which worked fine. The Solo just got upgraded to a Scarlett 6i6 though and I will be switching to Scarlett's drivers as, with the 6i6, you have to.
No magic needed, just a USB hub (powered) and an audio interface that is class compliant / doesn't need drivers. I have used this cheap device during my live set to send audio out to the mixer via USB.
A dac is only necessary if you feel you are having problems. And an amp is only necessary for higher impedance cans. I agree, focus on headphones.
BUT, the behringer UCA202 is a great, cheap start and can do many many things for only $30. A low risk investment to see if you even need a dac. Peace of mind is nice. And having an external volume control close by is practically worth the price alone. I have used it to rip vinyl, and use the optical out to connect to my receiver. It's amazing how much it can do considering the price. It is very light however, so make sure to get some sticky tac or velcro to keep it somewhere.
I am looking for an answer to the same question, but your question has given me an answer of sorts, but it involves a bit of lateral thinking.
1) The Zoom iQ7 needs to be powered for it to work, so I ran it into an iPhone and then turned on Garageband.
2) On a Garageband 'Audio Recorder' track, set the mic to L/R or Stereo as required, set 'Monitor' to 'On' and that will turn on the headphone socket on the iQ7 (it wont send a signal unless you do the above)
3) I then connected a mini jack to the headphone socket of the iQ7, then the stereo female phono L/R jacks to my little Behringer UCA202. These are excellent little signal convertors, and it has a USB2 out.
4) Connect the USB2 to the MacBook and you have the signal direct from the iQ7 into the Mac.
I did order a Female lightning to Male USB cable from Ebay, but the MacBook didn't like it.
So there you go. It's not elegant, and if you find a better solution please let me know. The iQ7 is great for acoustic guitars which is why I would like to cut out the iPhone to iCloud to Garageband to Logic path that I am currently taking. In my opinion, recording direct from the iQ7 to my iPhone are fine, but it would be great if I could just 'plug it in' to the Mac:)
Link to UCA202
What I'm confused about is if the receiver has a built-in dac or not, and if that works when its being fed through RCA. RCA sends analog signal doesn't it? So wouldn't it be digital(computer) out analog(RCA) then digital again (receiver) and playing through my speakers(in analog), is that how this works? I can't find any $10 minidisc players, but I there is a behringer DAC for $30
I use one of these. Ultra-Low Latency 2 In/2 Out USB/Audio Interface with Digital Output [link]
No idea what I bought or how good it is ahaha compare to my motherboard it might be an upgrade?
I use this $30 Behringer UCA202 to run stereo speakers. Works perfect, plug in play on OS X and Windows. Just plug USB into your Hackintosh and plug your 3.5mm jack into the headphones port on the device. You can also do RCA input and output with drivers and stuff but I haven't played with that, it does all I need it to.
If you're just using stereo I would get a cheap USB DAC like this instead of dealing with returning the motherboard.
You can do this a couple of ways. I used to get like a YouTube clip and convert it to an mp3 through any YouTube to mp3 converter websites. From there, just import the audio file to you DAW of choice and chop it up there. Recently, I've been finding a lot of video samples from Netflix or some other streaming site, so I use an audio interface like similar to this one here, record that to Audacity, and chop it there.
i use this, it might be more than what you're looking for but does the job and outputs more clean sound than your onboard.
Definitely sounds like a crappy sound card issue. Here's a cheap DAC that works really well for its price and has a headphone output.
My guess is that it will eliminate your problem.
You probably don't have a separate sound card. NVIDIA high def audio is from the graphics card over HDMI. If you were plugged into an audio port and not using HDMI, it was the motherboard's onboard sound (probably some kind of realtek codec). The cheapest fix would be a USB DAC like this: [link]
Just a heads up, you can make a hyperlink on Reddit by placeing the text you want to be the line in brackets like so, [here] and the link right after it surrounded by parenthesis like this (linkgoeshere), so you get [here](webaddress) and it shows up like this here
It seems that you just want to sample certain sounds. You can do this the old fashioned way, wiring the iPad to the Mac through an audio interface. Best and cheapest option would be buying two Behringer UCA 202 class compliant interfaces (around 30$ each), plug one into the iPad through the camera connection kit, and the other one into the USB of your Mac, and wire both interfaces up with cinch cables. On the software side an app like Audacity is enough to capture the sounds.
2 x [link]
You can get away with 1 interface if you use the headphone out of your iPad and wire it to the interface on the Mac side with a 3,5mm jack to cinch cable. But quality could suffer a bit.
Check what kind of outputs your record player has, you might need something like this and some RCA cables which is what I have to use [link]
But definitely start recording into your computer if you're getting into this, gives you way more control and you can monitor the recording in real time and not have to check it all later.
Well, the X1 has a line out feature, and a quality dac. So these considerations might be unnecessary. An adapter would probably be pointless; the original DAC isn't bypassed. You want as few conversions as possible. Ideally there is only one conversion.
USB is also digital. I use a Behringer UCA202 from my pc to my receiver using an optical cable. One of the few DAC's that have optical output. You could also consider hdmi or connecting to your motherboard, but I like to avoid that personally.
The X1 line out feature is solid. BTW, line out is basically the signal output at full power. AKA volume near 100%. If I were to guess, most phones or ipods won't be able to match the output of the X1 line out, considering it was designed for use with higher impedance headphones and whatnot.
SO, a direct digital connection to the receiver is ideal, but the X1 is a pretty damn close second.
I would get a UCA-202 which has RCA and optical output. The really nice part about using the USB->Optical is that you eliminate the possibility of ground loops between the amp and PC. The DAC in the UCA-202 may also be better than the one in the Onkyo so it may be worth trying both.
If you have a MacBook then it probably has optical out built into the headphone jack.
As far as I know the only solution is to separate the DAC from the rest of your laptop. This avoids "noise" from the hard drive and other components.
This might work. I say might because it is usb powered and usb ports can have noisy power and you will end up hearing that through your headphones. I, however, have found that there is usually one usb on a given computer that gets clean power.
There are more expensive options out there that aren't usb powered, but I don't know how much you want to spend.
Internal but not on-motherboard souncards are generally more isolated and have shielding on, so it'll probably be less likely to have a problem.
Personally I have a Behringer UCA202 that plugs into my amp and it's served me perfectly well (it had electronic noise if I moved my mouse via the on-board soundcard).
I've no idea how good they are for plugging headphones straight into, a lot of reviewers for products like that are super snobby Audiophiles so it's hard to know. I know it serves me perfectly well, and it's completely plug-n-play on Windows, no shitty driver problems that I've had with Creative in the past with their internal sound-cards.
The UCA-202 is a great budget DAC but MacBook actually has a pretty good analog output.
Are you OK using the software volume control in OSX? The JBLs dont really have a physical volume knob. There are options like the $50 Schiit Sys but they are a little expensive for what they are.
Wellp, I ended up figuring out the answer myself:
Buy this $30 audio interface to feed the 1/4" outputs into and then into the computer: [link]
Import a video and the audio track produced by step 1 above. Use audio cues to sync them up, delete the video's audio track so only the audio interface one remains
go to your mb mfr and dl the Windows 10 audio drivers for the board. ??
OS X and Windows actually fight over the audio config so that's largely why I just run audio through USB on OS X.
I actually got that for $23 from Amazon in September, it's ace.
Behringer uca202. Also what I use to my receiver. I record vinyl with it as well. It's a swiss army knife for anyone into audio. But I'd just get a soundcard with optical out if you want to save clutter.
Thanks. I was wondering about this Behringer USB/Audio Interface, but I don't think that uses the TRS connectors you mention. So are you saying I should be using the balanced outputs on my mixer? By the look of it they are 2 x 1/4" jacks; I wouldn't really know as I have never used them for anything. That would actually be kind of handy as the 2 x RCA phono 'record' outputs are currently in use by my BPM counter.
Something like this Beringer unit has usb to optical out if that's what you need. The are cheaper alternatives out there as well. If those Astros ever break on you though, I recommend the hyper x cloud as a replacement. Great little headset for the price.
Not sure if this belongs here, I was just reading the side bar to get a good idea.
So I'm in the market for a few things. I've heard a lot about DAC's for my computer being pretty important, and since I listen to a lot of music at home, I thought I'd ask for your thoughts on a few things:
First, is the Behringer UCA202 worth buying? I've heard it recommended before, and I can definitely get behind the price point.
Also, do I need anything else when upgrading my system using one of these? Please forgive my naivety!
If you want to eliminate any possibility of electrical noise you should get a standalone dac. This one is good for starters:[link]
Or if you're not worried about interference get a 3.5 to xlr or trs cable to hook it up
Oh, and just to be sure-- when you say "sx also goes to interface", you mean the RCA cables, right? I was planning on purchasing this and hooking up some RCA cables from the SX to this audio interface: [link]
Edit: One more thing, if you do use RCA cables, do you hook them up to Master Out 2 (assuming you're using MO 1 for the XLR speakers)? Thanks
I have used what I linked. I never used the soundblaster. I tried to find some specs for the output impedance, but I couldn't find it. Soundblaster has been a reliable company for a long time, I would assume they are at least OK.
There is no question that a USB DAC headphone amp, like your linked soundblaster, will remove all hum and reduce distortion. I just can't say I have tried it and soundblaster is not in the top tier of audiophile quality equipment. The behringer uca 202 is more highly rated and costs half with a line input to record from.
Assuming your receivers DAC is adequate, which I hope it is, the $30 behringer uca202 has optical output from usb. Pure digital goodness to the receiver. [link]
Also has many other neat features that most dacs won't.
Get a USB DAC and skip that shitty Realtek all together.
Here's the cheapest one I know:
The RCA outputs and headphone should output at the same time regardless if either speaker is on or not. You might get some leveling issues if both are on simultaneously.
I was looking at the Behringer UCA202 - [link]
I'll be honest though - I don't have any experience with raw circuits, which is kinda my main reason for coming here first. I have access to a soldering station, and as long as it isn't insanely difficult, I don't have any problem getting my hands dirty (though I do wish I could just buy something that I can quickly pop in and have it working!).
These things seem pretty expensive. I found this:
Would something like this be good? Again, I am not doing anything crazy and i dont need extreme good quality sound. Would something like this work out good for me? And how would i plug my guitar into this?
I would say it's a better option, yes; even though the ProMedia set has a little more bass extension, it's particularly poor coming from a cheap sub. Otherwise, the MB42X completely creams that set.
I would also say don't get an internal sound card. First, their benefits are a bit dubious from being inside of a PC that's producing a ton of RF noise, thus raising your noise floor and slightly muddying the sound, generally speaking; and second, you can almost always get better better sound from external, purpose-built hardware. Bear with me, this may seem a bit complicated than it needs to be.
For the best sound, you're going to want an external DAC (digital-to-analog converter) fed through either USB or an optical connection; and for headphone connectivity, a headphone amp.
Depending on how much you want to spend, you have a ton of options. My go-to for a cheap DAC that will remove basically all RF noise from the PC is the Behringer UCA202. This thing has a cheap headphone amp built-in, and you can use the RCA output to feed the Muse amp for your speakers. Cheap, and it has everything you need.
Another option is the [Fiio E10K](www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1428860902&amp;sr=1-2), which also has a DAC, but a much higher-quality headphone amp. This will give you about the same quality sound through your speakers, but substantially better sound through your headphones in many cases.
EDIT: Aside from these few components, you don't need anything to get good sound out of your PC. The DAC, headphone amp, and amp should be good enough even for most critical listening unless you decide to go into the big leagues.
> USB to stereo adapter for $8 on Amazon
I highly suggest considering getting a different device. In particular, on a Mac, these use a chip set that are known to cylon or create distortion after a period of time.
I would suggest a Behringer UCA222 or UCA202 ($29).
These use line level inputs and outputs and don't use 1/8" connectors which I've always found to be noisy. You can take the RCA connectors and convert to 1/4" TS ends and plug right in.
The Scarlett's are great (I'm integrating a 18i20 right now) but they can be very confusing. There is nothing wrong with them but if it's your first mixer/audio interface it can be a lot to wrap your head around. Having the hardware knobs and sliders just makes things simpler.
Whenever I use a USB mic on my PC, it buzzes so I'm forced to use 3.5mm and haven't heard any complaints. I use a Behringer Xenyx 302 mixer.
If you want to use USB with your mixer instead, you can get one of these: [link]
I've seen this issue a number of times and it's typically the result of a crappy sound card. I would suggest trying a dedicated internal or external sound card for the machine to see if that helps. It certainly won't hurt. For an external solution I've seen these recommended a number of times but I haven't personally used them. Otherwise just about any pcie sound card should be an improvement over what comes onboard.
I tried putting a few resistor values in line, and none of them work. I'm beginning to think that the problem is the device not initiating a connection over the data lines.
I've decided to buy this USB DAC when I get some money, and hook it up to a hub to be done with the stereo's USB stuff. That'll also let me tie in my phone's bluetooth receiver and make a switch so I can keep the stereo on aux (hidden in dash).
Thanks for the help anyways!
When you say USB soundcard, which one specifically? You could try using the Behringer DAC I've used this in the past and it's an excellent cheaper option.
A budget friendly USB audio interface is the Behringer U-Control UCA202. Certainly not the most high-end interface, but it will give you an acceptable clean signal to record from:
On your receiver: turntable into phono, Behringer UCA202 into TAPE REC (Tape Out). I could only find one pic of your receiver and it was blurry, but there is a tape monitor or similar button on your receiver which you will need to engage to get the sound to send to the Behringer UCA202. From there USB into the computer. In your OS select the Behringer as the input source. Start Audacity and capture the recording.
I too have this problem. The Krakens don't do this on my desktop (only on my laptop). I do think going for a DAC should help out... Like this one.
I'm cheap and super amateur, so I just run to a mixer and then go out with this thing:
It all depends on your budget and what you want to do. If you're a pro, you use protools and buy the $$$$$ system with all the good stuff.
Do you really need to have everything on separate tracks in your DAW to mix? I'm not making records, so I don't see the point. If I ever became popular and people liked my stuff, then I'd upgrade to the nice Mac setup, ProTools, super high quality preamps, etc. Until then, I just go cheap and work on making cool songs.
I just have hardware effects/compressor/EQ, so I don't need all the separate tracks. But I'm unusual like that.
I can't really afford that right now, would this instead? Its quit a bit cheaper.
If your PC has a bad output, you can get a DAC.
Get a powered USB HUB if you got static coming from your PC, or an optical DAC such as the fiio d03k.
Spending more is a waste of money.
Honestly, if advise to get a simple high quality sound card for $30 ( here's the one I have Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface [link]). That's prettyyyy much your only solution, cause serato is kinda funky about audio connections.
You'll need this. [link] And a set of stereo RCA cables. Just go to Control Panel and set this as your default audio device. Then, use your old Android phone as a remote.
Internal sound cards can receive interference from the rest of the PC and the power supply which is what your issues sounds like.. Best bet is to move your soundcard out of the picture and get a USB dac like this $30 Behringer UCA202 It will be better than your soundcard with proper RCA outs for the speakers.
The headphones output has an option for active monitors. You can line out from the DAC to an amp at the same time and have it going to both the monitors and your external amp. It's also a pretty decent sounding DAC for the price.
What do you think of these Behringer UCA202s
Seems like it would work, and is way cheaper than these usb di boxes... or am i missing something? Laptops USB > UCA202 > RCA mixer input?
Don't run $180 speakers on a $20 amp. You will be doing them and yourself a disservice. External USB DAC and that first $90 dayton amp.
If your speakers take a digital in you can probably set them to different outputs. If you feel like spending some money you can buy something like this Behringer UCA202 which can be used for your speakers OR headphones and you will just pick it in each program as you desire.
although i must say i had the same issue even with this interface then I talked to some fellow djs/producers and just started going in through the 2 mic inputs on my focusrite interface using a rca to dual quarter inch cable now my mixes are crystal clear
Length of cable, improper shielding are the cause. You may be able to put some sort of FM trap on the end of the line.
If you are willing you could buy a USB soundcard or DAC and put it mere inches from the amplifier/speakers and connect it with very short analog cables. First you might want to check to make sure the speakers themselves aren't picking up the broadcast internally.
Thanks for all the advice. I ended up getting a Behringer UCA202 ([link]) for the link to the PC/Mac.
I will see what kinds of software are out there. Audacity actually comes bundled with the guitar hookup, so we will see how that works. Ideally I'd love to get some jam tracks to play along with.
You can do cheaper than that. Get a Behringer UCA202, which is an extra audio interface for your computer.
Then get RCA splitter/stacker cables.
Finally, download Audacity and the LAME plugin to export to MP3.
Plug the stackers into the back of the controller and into the inputs of the audio interface. Connect your speakers into the back of the stackers.
Set up Audacity to have the audio interface as its input, hit record and start mixing.
I've done this to success myself, when I was using a Mixtrack Pro 3 and Serato DJ Lite.
Benefit of the audio interface is that it's useful should you ever want to start producing music and they're more recommended than on-board soundcards
when all else fails
Connect your preamp output to this puppy...
I have a P45 and used an audio interface (this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title) with the appropriate cables to hook up to my macbook and recorded with Quicktime. It worked quite well. Pretty sure you need an audio interface to get actual audio recording (as opposed to MIDI). I don't totally understand all the technical details of why TBH but it works. :)
I use this one and it works great with my Mac and Sony MD recorders.
What is the reason you want to use the Mic Input on the destination computer? Are you aware that the Mic Input is monaural, and not stereo as the rest of the computer supports?Is your destination computer a portable computer with only a Mic Input?
The two issues with audio-to-audio connections are:
If your destination is a portable computer with only Mic Input, then a solution may be to use a USB audio gadget of some kind to provide stereo input. For example: Behringer UCA-202 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI
If your destination computer is a desktop or "tower" with a complete set of audio input and output connectors, then it is appropriate to connect the audio output from the source computer (lime green connector) to the line-in connector on the destinatoin computer (light green connector) using a 3.5mm TRS to TRS cable.
Something like this, maybe?
I am using Wear Audio Recorder, and it does record from the mic, both from my USB-C Pixel Buds, and the Google USB-C adapter w/ Sony STH40D (had to raise the gain to "X7" with the latter). This was on a Pixel 2 XL on Android 10. It's weird that most other apps don't though, that seems like a basic function of an audio recorder.
Are you sure you got the correct cable? In order to do that properly you need more than just one cable, usually some kind of mixer, cause while splitting 1 channel into 2 outputs (L/R) is trivial, joining 2 into 1 is not and shouldn't be done without a proper mixer adapter cause you could damage the output. You can just choose one of the output channels and route it to the mic input pins in the TRRS, but that would require a special cable that you might have to build yourself, not sure if you can just find it in a store. Another thing is that you may have impedance issues which may affect the level of the sound, or even make the phone not detect its presence, which may or may not be what you're experiencing.
Although I haven't tried it myself, if you have good return policies in your country, you can try an inexpensive USB interface (and connect it to your phone with the included A-to-C adapter) and it should work even better, and would be the proper way to do it.
Edit: Just tried with a USB interface, and it does just work, can even record in stereo if you want.
I was unclear about one thing...
"There are a few issues. First, you will not hear your own voices in these setups. You could wire an additional connection from the H6's headphone jack to the headphones with an additional splitter, combining the audio from the remote side to the local audio. Using more robust connectors like 1/4" connections might also be a better suggestion. This would reduce static and unexpected disconnections."
If I were to use your #1 setup, but wanted to have the local host/guests hear themselves as well as hear the remote guest, what would I need?
My understanding is:
- Behringer UCA202
- Behringer HA400 headphone amp
- What cables/splitters/connectors would you recommend to hook up the behringer devices as well as reduce static/disconnections/etc.?
They might. As promised, I found a promising link--in the case you do need some kind of dongle. I haven't used this one, but it does appear to support stereo input. Most of the smaller audio-input dongles only have mic inputs, not proper line-in's, and the input is mono-only. Obviously, that'd weaken the Switch's audio experience. This one clearly has left/right audio input, and claims to have virtually no latency:
It's $30 instead of $7, but it's got a lot favorable reviews and definitely does stereo input. That said, I was only looking on amazon. There might be something better on a more narrowly focused website.
Hello, I am trying to figure out how the best way to take an audio signal from a PC and a PS4 and merge them while still being able to use a microphone on the PC. I just want everything to feed through my DAC and follow through to my amps and such.
I do have a Behringer UCA202, which can work with what I want to do, but the only way I could think of using it makes it not go through my DAC or amps and picks up a lot of noise in the process.
The simplest solution in my mind would to just somehow mix 2 optical signals into 1 output but i'm almost positive it's not that simple lol. Any help would be appreciated.
Disable onboard sound, USB DAC. If you're poor, UCA 202. If you're rich, there are too many options to list.
>The Scarlett 2i2 or Solo yeh they are probably the best bet if I want to spend a bit but would this be adequate?
If you are using Traktor (I'm guessing here) then you can buy a Native Instruments Audio 2 and configure Traktor to use 2 soundcards. Since the K2 is a 4-channel soundcard as well as a midi controller you will then have 4 stereo outputs you can route through the Xone 42. (You could also buy 2 Behringer USB interfaces and use the K2 to spend a little less money and have the ability to record back into Traktor. I've never tried 3 using 3 soundcards, but I assume it's possible via the method above)
Alternately you can look for a used Audio 8 or 10 which eliminates the need to aggregate soundcards.
I have a MacBook Air with only one audio jack and have never been able to make it work as an input. I use a cheap usb audio interface like this:
I've decided not go get a capture card as it was really just to solve an audio out issue. I'll get a simple USB-dac instead https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI
I would look for USB to toslink and just get the $4 adapter that converts to USB-C. You might be looking for a while if you want native USB-C. (and it doesn't matter for this purpose)
That will all work w/o drivers on the newer macs.
Since you're on a budget, I would get this:
only $30. But the more expensive options like the 2i2 is definitely recommended if you can stretch it.
Yeah as stated I would love to use them with either Bluetooth or wifi (Chromecast audio) and I've read that it is not optimal for sound quality if you plug the speakers directly into your computer.
When looking into whether the lsr305's would make sense, I was looking at how much it would cost total. Seems like I could get it to work with:
Very simple DAC
That's USD 37 extra (Assuming I can find something similar in Europe). And then the speakers on top of that. I've found the speakers for EUR 105 each, which is USD 128 each, on this website.
Seems like quite a bit of work and extra cost to get the JBL's over the Edifier's. Wondering if this is worth it.
I don't think I am saying the right things to you. I re-read the original post and I think I understand better.
You have a cassette deck and computer you want to listen to on headphones and speakers, right?
You got a little bit of money, which I assume is about $200 bucks because you can afford the dt770 and have $50 left over.
If you don't have speakers, you can't buy anything except a used stereo from craigslist that might be able to do what you want. $50 isn't enough to buy a headphone amp/dac and speakers and a speaker amplifier. You will have to save up more money.
A headphone amp is designed to take an analog signal and amplify it to headphone level. Some have inputs, some have line level outputs that can be routed to a speaker amplifier, but in general, headphone amps are designed for one purpose. Taking a signal and amplifying it to headphone levels. It cannot power a set of speakers.
The Behringer UCA 202 has an analog in that allows you to hear it on the computer, but it's not a speaker amp. You will be able to listen to your tapes, or record your tapes with Audacity or some other program. You will not be able to take the output of the Behringer UCA 202 and directly power a set of speakers. You can take the output and lead them to POWERED speakers, or a stereo amp, but not directly to a set of speakers.
Did I clear anything up or did I just confuse you more?
I would buy a Fiio e10k before I bought a compromise receiver this is why
If you have a desktop, it has an analog in. If you are on a laptop, I woudl buy a Behringer UCA 202 It has an analog in and it has an analog out, and it has a headphone amp. Some people question teh quality of the headphone amp, but lots of people haven't had a problem.
I use this which is connected to my desktop via usb [link]
Would you recommend I upgrade the to the fiio? I have an hd598
Honestly if you've never owned a dac and your looking for a good deal, the Behring UCA 202 is a great place to start for $30! [link]
This one is less than half the price: [link]
A Behringer UCA202 should do the trick.
I have one of these.. It's cheap, and you can put it next to your keyboard or somewhere else on your desk. As simple as plugging in your headphones or the 3.5mm for your speakers.
Alternatively you can buy ones that have switches instead and use that.
lot of good advice here already but i'll try and toss out some personal experience:
get OBS. it can be intimating to use if you have no experience but there's a youtube video for basically any problem you could encounter so don't be afraid to google around for your specific issue if/when you run into one.
if you're using a 4/5 channel dj mixer, get a usb audio interface (something cheap like this will work just fine). this isn't absolutely necessary and you can actually get around audio issues with OBS without one (as long as your mixer has a USB connection) with some hardware routing but you'll lose out on an entire channel. this explains that perfectly and was the only video out there that actually helped me achieve this without the need of a secondary interface.
if you're not using an external mixer/are using Serato or Traktor, using a secondary computer or even your phone would be a much better way to stream, as running stream software like OBS with another cpu intensive program like Traktor will result in choppiness with the stream. i have a late-2012 macbook pro and hit this issue myself, so if you've got a PC or alternative decent laptop you can use for dedicated streaming that would be ideal, another option is using your phone in conjunction with something like Facebook Live, without the need of OBS, but you'll sacrifice audio quality dramatically using a TRRRS line-in instead of USB.
if you have shitty internet, you basically might as well not even bother trying to stream because it will usually not be a good experience. this is the camp i'm in for the time being, anything less than a 3MB upload rate is pretty much worthless, though you can sacrifice video quality for audio superiority within OBS and sometimes it can work out into a comfortable stream. this is something that will take some trial and error to figure out, as well as figuring out how much to delay your audio to sync up with your video, which will always be at least a little bit off by default until you adjust it within the audio mixer of OBS.
Thanks! I was reading a bit more and it seems like a good idea to get a soundcard like this:
and any decent cassette deck from the thrift shop
Personally, I use one of these on my minipc. Behringer uca202… $30. Great for the price.
For your Astros, you could use a $30 Behringer interface for an optical out.
The USB requirement removes a lot of headphones from consideration. There are a lot of 1/8 inch headphones that will fit your needs.
Have you considered buying a UCA 202 DAC and then plugging traditional headphones into it?
There are a ton of options then.
ATH option 1
ATH Option 2
If you insist on USB, I would punt and choose a Turtle Beach of some sort. The tiny little USB DAC could compromise audio quality.
Have some random stuff for sale.
Assuming your motherboard doesn't have an optical out, I would buy something like this, along with a TOSLINK optical cable, to connect to a 5.1 receiver.
I use a Behringer UCA202 (£24 with Amazon Prime) USB sound interface. It's pretty small, doesn't need external power either and sounds great.
A DAC/AMP is a very good purchase. Ever since I bought this budget DAC, the sound quality of my headphones went way up.
So a USB mixer won't show up in my playback devices with track 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8? My mbox currently shows up like this under the recording devices. Wondering if this can be accomplished with a single mixer for outputs.
Could totally pick up 2x USB audio cards like this Behringer U-Control and have my main PC audio go to #1 and skype go to #2 and have those both go to channels 3/4 and 5/6 on the mixer for separate audio controls.
This is a solid choice:
Thought. I found this small interface with an optical toslink out. Could I send 8 tracks via toslink out of this thing into my motu 2408??
Not really. Just get a USB DAC and you'll be fine.
Is this what you have?
I recommend the behringer uca202 (the uca222 is the same in red) if you only want to use it for simple monitoring/recording/listen with headphones. the sound quality you get good and you don't get anything better for this price.
you can use this cable for stereo input [link]
yeah it's this guy
stereo out for headphones, optical out for going to an amp/speakers
So I got a pair of LSR305s a year a go to plug into my computer and use for listening to music while I work and for some gaming. When I'm at my desktop, they sound fine. However, when I get into something more intensive like a video game or exporting a video, I get some really annoying noise.
My motherboard audio doesn't work well, so if I need some sort of external interface it would have to be USB, anything analog from the computer wouldn't work. Right now I have them hooked up to this.
This is from the tweeter
And this is from the woofer
So anyways this is pretty annoying and I'd like to make it stop. I'm not much of an audio expert so I'd love it if you guys could give me some help.
I'm guessing I need a better DAC to fix this? I'd like to spend around $100 if I need some hardware to fix this. Thanks!
Get an external soundcard to test it if you want. I use this one, [link]
It doesn't have the best input and output slots though but it is simple and sounds great.
When I go into my device manager I see the "realtek high definition audio" but I don't see anything that I could activate or anything other than the Update / Disable / Uninstall / Scan for hardware change / Properties. ( cf [link] )
My mobo is a Gigabyte GA-P35C-DS3R rev2, it is quite old but seems to be working just fine so far.
But do you think it could work if I bought a coaxial cable? Or do I need to buy something like that [link] or if you know a cheaper alternative it would be nice !
Are you firm at $60? I would wait just a few weeks when you can afford something just a bit more.
My minimum requirement for Good sound would be: This Behringer DAC - $30 + This Lepy Amp - $33 + These Micca Speakers - $58 for a total around $120. And everything will be upgradable as you want, if you wanted to add a Schiit Stack with a good pair of headphones later. My headphone recommendation for under $50 is the Sennheiser HD 518's when they occassionally go on sale for less than $50, I paid $46 for mine new.
I have never not noticed the difference between the on-board audio jack of a computer and my Behringer UCS202. I don't own a better DAC than that presently, but I highly recommend it as a starting point.
Personally I am contemplating purchasing a miniDSP 2x4 HD as an upgrade but with the mic for room correction that's 10X the cost of the 202.
And the 202 it less than most bar tabs I've ever paid, so it shouldn't weight too heavily on your mind if your motherboard performs about as well.
You're sure the laptop doesn't have embedded optical out on the headphone port? most don't, but some do.
Anyway, If you don't mind using the built in DAC you can get a cheap usb dac with optical out and use it.
something like that
Or get the old hifimediy 9023 for cheaper, for the current price of the uca202, the 9023 can also do optical out and support 96khz/24bit vs the 44/16 on the uca202, and the dac shouldn't be bad either.
it could , but for these headset i would recommend to buy a cheap DAC like this one for better sound quality
unfortunately, Apple has yet to get on the whole PC ecosystem bandwagon like Microsoft did from the earliest days.
me, I got this:
and the sound problem is Solved.
thanks, that looks like it would work too. I ended up with a USB mixer like this that did it for me as well
Behringer UCA202 for a good cheap DAC. The next step up is a DAC/Amp like the Fiio E10k or SMSL M3 which outperform most internal soundcards so you could carry those over to your next build. I use an E10k with Sennheiser 558s and highly recommend it if you have decent headphones.
I'm curious how the Micca Origen + compares to the emotiva little ego and the much cheaper [link] .
If you get shitty ground noise when recording from your computer, pick one of these up to fix it (note they're RCA-in):
Audio Technica A900x could be another option.
But yeah, Beyer DT770/880/990 are pretty much the poster children for V-shaped sound. You could look into the differences between the Beyer models, because there's about a dozen variations.
Behringer UCA202 is a $20 DAC. It's actually a DAC+solid state amp combo, but you can bypass the amp, it can output unamped toslink and 2xRCA.
FiiO D3 (aka "Taishan-D03K") is another cheap ($20) standalone DAC, but it takes coax or toslink as input, not USB (which is only for power), so check if your PC has compatible digital outputs.
For a pure USB DAC (No Amp) it is incredibly hard to beat the Behringer UCA202 on a budget.
$29 and it will blow away the competition within the $100 range out of the water.
Incredibly in depth reviews and analysis found here:
Purchase USA: [link]
Purchase Canada: [link]
I suggest starting with a Behringer UCA-202 and then adding a Dayton DTA-120 or Dayton DTA3116HP.
Your audio codec is probably dying. You could get a cheap USB DAC like this: [link]. I just saw your edit, that's pretty weird. It might be time to reinstall Windows.
It roughly means it doesn't have a true audio output but pretends to.
Try fixing the video out first. If the analog audio quality is good then use it.
If it isn't get a cheap USB sound card with this list but I think most cheap ones will work anyway. It will suffice. Some people also use this more expensive one if I remember correctly but I don't think you'll notice a difference as long as you don't use a high quality sound setup.
I don't think you'll be able to have video via composite and audio via HDMI at the same time.
You could always go with something cheap like the Behringer UCA202 with a line output to start off with: [link]
Would this cheap amp be used just to tide you over until you get something better? You mentioned a hifi setup, I thought you already have an amp or receiver planned, that's why I didn't hesitate to recommend a HD6xx. :/
Anyway, the Behringer UCA202 is £23 and will do a decent temporary job. It's a DAC/amp combo, and will act basically like an USB external soundcard. (Please note that the UCA202 is a bit of an odd duck, it was meant for studio work so it has a rather huge 50 Ohm output impedance; it happens to work with the HD6xx because of their 300 Ohm impedance, but it won't work well with lower impedance headphones.)
If you're looking for something more serious (as you probably should), the Schiit Magni 2 is £95. (You could also order it directly from schiit.com, but it comes down to £80 after UK VAT, and you still need to add shipping, so I don't imagine there's gonna be huge savings that way.)
You can actually get both of them, incrementally, if you're strapped for cash. Start with the UCA202 until you get the money for Magni; then later the Magni will take over the amp duties and let the UCA202 be a simple DAC (it has an unamplified RCA output for bypass, for exactly this purpose).
Consider a USB sound card.
Most of the basic USB audio cards are driverless.
Try this one for a higher end DAC [link]
Or this one for basic [link]
No, it is not good. It is a sound card by itself, but a poor quality one.
For inexpensive, decent quality USB audio, I'd go with something closer to this: [link]
I just used my old Behringer UCA202 ([link]), which is hidden behind my desk, for the SMSL.
I used that one for my first entry level audio interface. It did me well.
Some people on here will tell you the HD598 improves with better gear. I don't think it does, but whatever makes you enjoy it more I guess.
A few people aren't paying any attention to what you actually linked to. The SA-160 has a headphone out. It's not super powerful (130mW into 32ohm vs. 1.5W into 32ohm from a Magni 2Uber) but the HD598s don't really need a whole lot of power.
So basically you need RCA audio cables to connect the amp to your source. If your computer doesn't have RCA line out then you'll want an external DAC for that. Examples include the ever popular Behringer UCA202 for a cheap $30 "Amazon prime to my door ASAP" solution, or $100-150 for a Schiit Modi 2 for a "really fucking good measurements for consumer gear" solution.
Once you hook the amp to your source, just plug your headphones into the headphone jack on the amp.
IMPORTANT: The advice you got that was "just use a 3.5mm to RCA splitter and plug that into your headphone output on your PC" was bad. You're double amplifying the signal, once in the computer and once in the SMSL amp.
If you need more advice, just post to /r/headphones .
Honestly, at some point you should get some unpowered speakers to hook up to this thing. That's where the bang for your buck will happen with this amp, as a specialized headphone amp would be better for just headphones. It's kind of a sunken cost fallacy, but it is what it is. This subreddit tends to recommend Micca MB42X with a similar model from SMSL to amplify, so just look at it as: you may have bought the wrong type of amp for just headphones, but at least now you're halfway to a functioning setup that will power both headphones and unpowered speakers.
You could get something as cheap the Beringer for $30, and pair it with a powered USB hub to isolate it electrically from your motherboard.
What for? There's this Behringer DAC but it only outputs audio.
A USB one such as this?
the "Devil's Canyon" versions of the Haswells allegedly have better thermal design, though the i5-4460 is probably good enough, but spending $40 for the ability to upclock to 4GHz if & when I feel like seemed like a wise investment.
Stay with the socket 1150 generation, 1151 is too new still.
Getting an H vs. Z motherboards are fine (if you don't want to OC). tonymac has a thing for Gigabyte over other mfg choices, and maybe that preference is justified.
Gigabyte BIOS does seem pretty compatible, and I didn't run into the USB issues people were seeing with 10.11. I don't have any fancy SSDT stuff, just some config.plist settings and the EFI drivers.
is a link to the Clover files I have for my Gigabyte Z97-UD3H-BK w/ i5-4690K w/ no GPU.
>After initial setup do you face any issue in hackintosh?
Very smooth sailing since June when I installed 10.10 and the 10.11 beta. Gone MUCH better than I was even hoping.
I installed Windows 10 again recently and that took out Clover on my O X boot disk (I forgot to detach the OS X SSD first), but I was able to boot from my Clover USB OS X installer and reinstall Clover onto the EFI partition of my main OS X boot drive with no issues.
10.11's security addition is something of a pain but I guess Clover has that sorted out for new installs too.
Note I have a BCM94360CD-based PCIe 802.11 wifi / bt4 combo card I got for $65 from Hong Kong via eBay. This has been working great OOB. I also spent ~$20 on a Behringer USB sound dongle to not have to futz with the onboard audio driver install hassle.
You've got to pick your battles . . .
Cheapest I can recommend is the Behringer UCA202.
You can get reasonable noise levels without going balanced. I would start with something cheap like the UCA-202 and see if that solves the problem.
Something like this which was recommended in another thread?
There's also this Beringer which seems to be quite popular for budget DACs.
is it this one by any chance? [link]
The Behringer UCA202 is a good cheap option and has plenty of outputs.
You can connect a ODAC to the iPhone which would be a pretty good option. Take a look at [link] for instructions. For a cheaper option, you can get the Apple CCK and the Behringer UCA-202 DAC for less than $60 total.
Fortuitously, a DAC ain't exactly a big cash hit. Two good options would be Behringer's UCA202 and the trusty ol' HifimeDIY Sabre, if you don't need it to power headphones as well.
Of course, if you do want that capacity, it's not that much more for a FiiO E10k ^or ^Monoprice ^Desktop ^Headphone ^Amplifier ^^or ^^Micca ^^Origen ^^^or...
What about this?
if you've got $30
I've got this one:
I would recommend setting up a Mix Minus system to get your Skype/phone sound into the mixer without sending the caller's voice back out to them. This video and this video were very helpful when I was trying to understand how a mix-minus worked. You can find many other tutorials by searching "skype mix minus" in Google.
If I understand it correctly, the main issue is that you need sound to go back into the computer to record the audio going out of the mixer, but don't have enough in/out ports on the computer.. I can tell you about my current setup, which allows me to hold and record a skype guest's audio, and record audio from my mixer into audacity or another program, all with a '13 Macbook Pro, which has only one headphone/speaker audio port. I also record into an external digital recorder, which I would recommend if you are doing that much on a laptop, to avoid losing recordings from software crashes.
Anyway, I have a Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface connected to my computer, in addition to the audio in/out. Skype audio comes in and out from the headphone port and is connected to a splitter to separate the computer's input/output channels. Connect the splitter's output to a line in on the mixer. Turn down the aux send on this channel, and then send the aux channel (which now outputs every mic but the Skype out) to the input of the splitter. Now, connect the main out to the RCA input of the Behringer UCA202. Now your skype audio moves in and out through the headphone/speaker port, and the mixer's audio is channeled through the Behringer UCA202.
You can add an external digital recorder by moving the main out into the digital recorder's input and sending the mixer's tape out to the Behringer UCA202.
I hope this helps! Feel free to reply/pm with any questions you have.
EDIT: You will likely need a usb sound card to plug your mix/minus into the Macbook, rather than the Macbook's in/out. I ran into some errors while trying to use specific programs with this setup without the sound card.
I went ultra-cheap just to get them functional.
Works well enough.
I have an old dennon receiver doing something similar, and just use a cheap Behringer dac
You could buy something as simple as this link and use the RCA outputs on that with an RCA to XLR cable into the JBL LSR305s, I'm pretty sure.
I use a DAC, and then RCA to my amplifier.
EDIT: Behringer UCA202 is the one I use. Just a cheap one and you can find nicer ones depending on your price range. I've heard good things about Cambridge Audio Azur DacMagic
RAC was a typo. Meant RCA. My bad.
The DAC I have: [link]
> Crossfire, why not SLI
because nVidia requires 8x PCIe3 and ATI doesn't
(also, adding another PCIe 3 slot requires Z97 and a PCIe switch)
but yeah, the perfect board would have 2 PCIe 3.0 16/8X and 2 PCIe 2.0 1X in 6 slot spaces.
>z97s krait is the Audio! (and to some degree the networking)
? ALC892 seems pretty easy to get a driver working, and for $10 you can get a USB soundcard. Heck, I'm planning on plugging in a 24" Apple monitor with speakers and those should just work.
I've read good things about this, too:
And 8111G networking is also pretty well-supported by the community:
and I just learned last night that you can get a $40 card that works with just a bit of plist injection in Clover.
If you want something with a microphone port and multiple outputs, I would look into either the Behringer UCA202 or Focusrite Scarlett Solo. Not sure if either of these have integrated switching, so I would suggest a closer look. I'm also not very aware of any higher priced models, so if anyone else wants to chime in with more, or to expand upon these - I welcome it.
I know NwAvGuy has praised the Behringer very well for what it does, and here's the links to his reviews: #1, #2.
Otherwise, if you want a normal AMP/DAC set for headphone listening, I'd look at either the Schiit Magni/Modi stack or the O2/ODAC stack (I think the Schiit stack has a bigger volume knob). You can find reviews of them in the sidebar under Guide to DACs and amps.
However, I'm not really aware of many AMP/DAC sets in this area that support multiple outputs aside from those used in professional audio. Even then, I'm really only familiar with are the ones above. I know it's not much, but I hope I was able to point you in some direction at least.
I think Jakomako just answered my question. It was if I had a USB audio out device attached to my motherboard like this, would the audio route out into the USB audio device?
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I'm liking it pretty well for how cheap they are.
An MK10 for something very cheap. It has no volume control however.
If you want something better, a cheap DAC/amp is probably what you are looking for. For something cheap, a Behringer UCA202 or Syba DAC would be OK. These are pretty much bottom line as far as DAC's and amp's go, but it will allow you to do what you want. Something along the lines of a Fiio E10K would be a step up.
What headphones do you have? And what is your budget (if you are looking for good DAC's and amps)?
You kinda have to source a bit of stuff yourself and do some modding.
Rough parts list I used:
Extra things you may want:
Software wise I run Timur's USB Rom: [link]
I also have a blutooth module for my ODB-II port, and my Valentine 1 so I can get all of my car and radar information on the tablet if I like.
Couple of pictures: [link] [link] [link] [link] [link]
okay awesome, so is there much difference in sound quality depending on how its connected to the pc? someone on the forum recommended using one of these and buying a couple of these to wire it all up, is this any better then using the cable you linked previously? i'll check out /r/headphones instead, thanks dude.
I would look at getting a better DAC, the DAC on a motherboard is usually one of the cheaper parts.The Behringer UCA202 is better than most motherboad DACs, and even sound cards. The Schiit Modi is really popular over at /r/headphones, and I also know that FiiO makes some quality DACs. Also, the aux cables don't really matter at this price point.
In a word: Yes. Better volume, better sound, better connection, low price.
I picked up this one: [link]
Hey Zeo, could you go over my first set-up and see if everything would work together? Here's what I got so far:
Behringer UAC202 DAC
Sherwood RX-4109 105 Watt Stereo Receiver - Any opinion on this? It seems really good for the price but seems like a gamble from what I read.
Pioneer BS22 - I've heard the BS22s are very power hungry which is why I decided the above receiver would be a good match for it.
From my understanding it would go something like this:
Laptop <--DAC <--RCA--> Sherwood Receiver --> BS22
Is that correct? And would I benefit significantly from purchasing a subwoofer?
Well seems as if the Rokits are going to fall through so right now my plan is to purchase:
Behringer DAC - In Box: unit & usb cord
>(it appears the 202 and 222 are the same, with different software bundled. as the 222 is cheaper on amazon, I will probably be purchasing it. The 222 comes with some sort of paid software where as the 202 is just audacity. The 222 is also newer)
Lepai 2020A+ - In Box: unit & (shitty) power adapter
Polk Audio PSW10- In box: unit
I am going to need to purchase RCA & Speaker wire, correct? If so, can you recommend any from Amazon? Thanks for all your help so far. Also, the Behringer apparently only processes 16 bit audio, rahter than 24. Is it worth it to find a 24 bit DAC?
EDIT: Totally confused the 'new comment' and 'reply' boxes. Oops
EDIT 2: Researched and found what comes with each, listed beside product in bold.
Yes that setup will work, but both items are of questionable quality. This is a better amp [link] and I know these are going to be better speakers. [link]
If your going to use this from a PC I also recommend getting a cheap USB DAC like the Behringer UCA202 .. Why this DAC?
My GoTo $250 COMPUTER SETUP to aid in becoming an audiophile. (Now with more sub!)
$30 Behringer UCA202 Better than your soundcard with proper RCA outs.
$90 DTA-100a A good 50wpc T-amp for powering the speakers. + has a headphone amp
$40 Dayton B652 .. Why these speakers? These are really clean speakers and can easily get loud enough for anyone but lack deep bass. So you will still need one of these...
$90 Dayton Sub-100
Diagram How You wire this 2.1
This full setup which I recommend in /r/audiophile usually runs around $250
$30 Behringer UCA202 Better than your/most soundcards with proper RCA outs.
$90 DTA-100a A good 50wpc T-amp for powering the speakers.
How You wire this 2.1
If it is over your budget just skip out on the subwoofer for now. You can always add it later if you like.
Laptop and THIS.. RCA inputs.
You could put something like this in the sub I suppose. [link] At $15 and 15wpc it should suit your needs.
They also sell a 2.1 backplate amp for a sub. [link]
Buy this Dac Behringer UCA202 .. Why this DAC?
Plug the speakers into it with its RCA outs. Use your sound card onboard to do the headphones. You should be able to set most programs to use one or the other. IE Foobar on the USB Audio Codec (Speakers) and media player classic or ventrilo to use the onboard AC97. Whatever you set the default will be in all programs until you tell it otherwise.
My god is that overpriced. Forget Bose. For 200+ dollars you can get MUCH better than that setup.
This is my standard 2.0 PC setup over at /r/audiophile.
$96 DTA-100a A good 50wpc T-amp for powering the speakers.
$40 Dayton B652 .. Why these speakers?
Usually I suggest a subwoofer as well but you can get away without one.
Agreed and throw this in for good measure. Behringer UCA202 .. Why this DAC?
5½" high speakers are a tough find with any quality in mind. What sort of width do you have available? There is a chance you can get decent speakers and lay them down on their sides if you have some space.
These Emotiva XRM 4 monitors are a good example of a speaker that is EXACTLY 5½" wide. They are also on sale currently.
Since a HTPC is all you have you can get a setup like this.
$32 Behringer UCA202 Better than just about any soundcard with proper RCA outs.
If you want the amp to auto power on and off you can look at some sort of Smart power strip.
> that's 4 input, 1 output, while i need 1 input, 4 output
It won't care which direction it is going. That will do both ways. You only need to amplify signal if you're splitting it to multiple sources which this isn't.
Could also grab some USB Dac's with full sized RCA outs. Behringer UCA202 .. Why this DAC?
You could even hook up multiple of those and send any source to any item. I have one and it sounds fantastic.
Depending on how small, how thin and your level of handy-ness. The guts from this 15wpc 8AA powered T-amp are sold here for $15. Just wire that up to 12V battery (or 8AA's or buy the complete amp) and just grab a pair of full range drivers for the box. You can than just use a 3.5mm to 3.5mm to the soundcard or if USB is completely necessary you can wire this up internally with an RCA to 3.5mm adapter wire.
I guarantee it will sound better than any USB powered speakers. And certainly louder.
How are you listening to DolbyTrueHD without an external decoder? Are you just decoding onboard and muxing to stereo?
My recommendation will from now on always start with a Behringer uca202 USB Dac(Best $27 You will spend this week!) Crazy detailed review of one here I just got one and the sound was so different from the onboard I was using I thought it was broken.. It wasn't that is just how bad old on-board audio sounds. xgp15a you may want to look at this guys review of the Nuforce Icon, he rips it pretty hard.
So with a $500 budget and aiming at stereo I like to recommend spending the big money on the amp you intend to use because a GOOD 2 channel amp will be with you for a while where speakers tend to change hands a bit more. I say invest $300 in one of these Emotiva UPA-2's and the remaining $170 you can look at either used towers, building your own or even getting a cheap pair of the B652's which rate VERY highly and using the rest of the budget for a small sub or stretch the budget just a bit and grab one of these Bic America F12 Subs.. They also rate very highly.
Still not going to help with decoding the blu-ray movies fully but with this hardware you probably won't be left wanting until you can afford to do a proper surround setup.
Try hooking something else up for a day. Old ipod or portable CD player.. whatever. If the noise goes away its the PC.. If it doesn't it is bad power noise.
If its the PC try fiddling with the options and if that doesn't help.. Here is the best cheap little dac you can buy Behringer UCA202 .. Why this DAC?
An amp will be needed. You can spend from as little as $90 DTA-100a or $199 60wpc Emotiva all the way up to $299 125wpc Emotiva as my highest power recommendation.
You should also get a DAC. Either the FiiO that 1369ic recommended or even this cheap Behringer UCA202 .. Why this DAC? will greatly improve the sound you get from your PC.
Also try to keep in mind MP3's are shit and Strait CD's, FLAC or other lossless formats are more important an upgrade than the speakers or amp or dac combined.
What my standard recommendation is first grab this cheap Behringer usb DAC as it is far superior to all On-Board Soundcards.
Next for amp I recommend either a used dedicated stereo amp if you can find a good one OR this $99 T-Amp
Bookshelves although you will still be lacking in low end will be superior quality mid's and highs. The standard cheap recommendation are a set of $30 Dayton B652's
That leaves only ~$70 for a subwoofer if you think you need one. Even a little 8" will support those B652's to a more suitable level.
I'd go with a usb DAC (Digital to analog Conveter) instead of the sound card your probably using this is a good starter. Behringer UCA202 .. Why this DAC?
At hundreds for a budget you may want to consider a real amplifier like this 160wpc Emotiva and decent speakers. I won't dare recommend any in the hundreds as I do not have the experience needed. May want to go ask the r/audiophile folks.
Get a Behringer UCA202. USB sound card, ~$30 on amazon.
Review and measurements here: [link]
meaningless audiophool speak.
beyond power requirements and impedance consideration there's no such thing as synergy, you just need transparency - and that costs 30$.
I have a couple questions about my connection from my pc to my amp.
My connection is from pc through usb to Behringer audio interface to the optical in on my Marantz integrated amp.
> PC --usb--> Behringer UCA202 --S/PDIF optical--> Marantz PM6005
I want the DAC in the amp to do the conversion. Is my digital audio to analog conversion only happening on the Marantz, or is there some conversion happening at the Behringer too?
The audio interface list the S/PDIF output as for "direct digital conversion", can someone explain what this means? Does it mean analog input could be converted to 1's and 0's and output through this port?
I would say that that your AD700X are wasted on onboard sound (If not for gaming then for music.)
I would go with something like this: [link] or at the minimum one of these : [link]
I was told that the M50 is the best can for the money. and that a dac and headphone amp will make better sounds.
I got a Beringer DAC because that is supposed to be the best:
Right? Like i said i am a noob sorry
Hey, here's a thing!
Just measure it. It's not as stable as a good dedicated powersupply.
It's just on average would you expect power running through and across many electrical traces in a motherboard to be as clean as a dedicated external powersupply? Also, the analog output of the DAC on a sound card is inside the computer and that is quite susceptible to electromagnetic interference because the traces on the circuit board carrying the analog output signal are not shielded (nor are other power lines running to nearby devices). It's better to send a digital signal capable of error correction out of the PC to an external DAC.
Clean power is extremely important to feed into an analog audio chip like an opamp. Any distortion in the power will end up in the audio signal otherwise.
3 times the price? What's the average price of a sound card with a dedicated headphone amp on it? You can get plenty of external DAC/Amp combos for $100-200.
One of the best cheap ones that is reasonably cheap would be a Schiit Modi and Magni combo for $99 each.
Or use the $99 Magni with a $30 DAC:
The amp is more important than the DAC generally.
I'm positive that Behringer+Magni combo for $130 would beat out any PCIe sound card.
Plus it can be used on a laptop or a future PC where you might not have a free PCIe slot.
I disagree, I'm running a £100 Card that I originally got for Recording but the huge difference is the direct RCA out, not having to use a 3.5MM->RCA is an absolute godsend for sound quality, alongside that it's just a much nicer DAC, it's a remarkably richer sound than my onboard, I don't think I could go back now. I'm a bit of an audiophile I suppose, I've got it running through some pretty nice speakers so that'd make the difference more than anything.
If you ARE looking for a DAC to improve your sound quality I'd honestly go for a Behringer UCA202, best thing you can get to improve your sound quality, assuming you already have half decent speakers, for $30.
This is what you need. You will get static if not from USB