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For pulling from a turntable or record player, I recommend this USB device.
It has a phono pre-amp built in, and also a grounding screw which is required for a turntable.
I used audacity to record the audio, and the quality was extremely good.
Not really. You need one of these.
I'd suggest one of these USB preamps. This frees up your preamp and audio interface and gives you a great, low cost and hight quality way to to get your turntable into the digital domain. It also provides a built-in headphone amplifier.
Yes, you will need a mixer of some kind. A USB mixer will be your audio interface.
If your turntable doesn't have a preamp, you will need one. I have been using one of THESE for years and it's great. You can use either the analog outputs into your mixer or connect it directly to a USB port on your computer to bypass the mixer.
Would the Behringer UFO202: [link]
be an upgrade over the preamp on the ATLP120? I am hoping to use the UFO202 to connect by turntable and PC to my pair of JBL LSR305s. I think I would have to get a volume control to go between the RCA out and my speakers, correct? Thanks.
For the simplest option, this will let you bypass the receiver and record.
My favorite is the Behringer U-Phono UFO202. They are $30.
It has a built-in turntable amplifier input. It also has a regular level input and output, and it has a headphone output.
If you don't need a turntable input but want a optical output, get the Behringer U-Control UCA222. Same price.
I have use this since the original Pi 1 B days, and have not had the USB stuttering problem that everyone else complains about.
So regarding this, I have a technics MK5 and a technics headphone. Curious what you would recommend for a decently priced stereo cartridge (micro? elliptical?), and for recording chain I was going to record through an audio interface (Scarlet 2i2) into Ableton where I could compress it and play with the levels. Does that sound right or should I just go with an external phono converter direct into USB for computer like this and save myself the whole audio interface step especially if it doesn't add any quality? [link]
What are you wanting to achieve?
To get the audio out of the piano into a PC for recording will need a RCA to what ever input you have on your soundcard in the PC. If your not sure about your soundcard, maybe think about something like this: [link]
If you are wanting to use you piano as a controller for some music software, you are correct in using MIDI, however if your piano doesn't support MIDI, this wont be possible.
Hope that helps!
Ho visto che mi serve questo, ma se la rileva come scheda audio non mi conviene prenderla esterna per poi attaccarci il giradischi?
Of course. OP can go cheap and get a Behringer U-Phono. Won't record hi-res, but can do 16/44, which is plenty.
I like the Behringer UFO202 or UCA202.
Yes, the $10 USB sounds cards almost sound good enough, but this is only $30 and it sounds so much better.
I do some work at an FM broadcast station. The on-the-air studio uses a $300 DAC, but the production studio uses one of these. I have used one, connected to my laptop, to do live band broadcasts. They sound great, and they reliable.
The Pi 2 is as noisy as the Pi B. Some of the under $10 USB DACs are much better, but you can still hear the noise at loud volumes.
For about the same price, I would recommend the Behringer UFO202 USB DAC. It's Quiet. It sounds great. It's compatible with the Pi, and with windows. It has a 3 year warranty.
I do some side work for an FM radio station, and I have used the Behringer for live broadcasts. It sounds better than the station's expensive laptop audio in.
The Behringer UFO202 has a turntable input. The Behringer UCA202 has a optical output. Other than that, they are the same.
You can connect the ground wire to any casing screw. You will need a pre amp if your stereo does not have a phono input. You can connect to your computer using a usb audio interface. Something like this has both things you are looking for. I don't have any personal experience with this particular item. You can also find seperate phono pre amp and usb interfaces.
Edit: In the case where your receiver does not have a phono input and you are adding a pre amp, connect the turntable ground to the pre amp. There will be a connector screw.
Not sure what your Turntable is outputting but if it is a good one you likely need a phono-pre OR you need a different behringer.. the UFO202 has a phono-pre but you need your PC to be running to use it.. I think..
Even a simple pushbutton RCA switcher would work for so few inputs as long as you can control the volume on the amp.
My gut reaction is that it's an issue with your stereo and not with using the headphone jack itself, but it's difficult to say based on your comments. Have you tried plugging another source (ipod) into your stereo? Is the auto quality the same?
If you think it is the audio output out of the computer you can try a cheap external sound card like this.
If you're on a tight budget, the Behringer UFO-202 USB interface may work for what you need:
Turntable > USB phono stage preamp > aux or cd input on the stereo and USB to the computer.
Basic low cost Behringer-U-Phono-UFO202.
Better Technolink-TC-756USB or ART-USB-Phono-Plus-PS.
Or [link] may be more appropriate for a low budget and it's also a basic phono stage preamp.
Or a better [link].
Do you already have speakers?
The manual Crosley C6 <strong>BT</strong> $99 with Bluetooth adds adjustable tracking force and a removable cartridge over the automatic LP60X.
Or Crosly C6 $123 in red without Bluetooth.
If you want automatic: AT-LP60X*<em>USB</em>* $129 then add Bluetooth Transmitter $29 if you really need it.
Guides: Turntable, Phono Preamp, Amp or Receiver, Speakers • Audio Guides, Speaker Wire, Accessories and Vinyl Care • r/BudgetAudiophile
Also Amazon reviews recommended I use this for recording vinyl.
Are the Cassette and Turntable separate device, and I mean separate from the amp? If they are you might have a better chance with Behringer USB Interfaces. Behringer makes one that is specifically for turntables.
Let me see if I can find it -
It has a switch so you could use LINE for the Cassette and PHONO for the Turntable.
The Scarlette 2i2 would only work if you have standard Line Level inputs to the device, either Unbalanced (RCA) or Balanced (XLR).
If the Cassette and Turntable are built into the unit, then you are somewhat screwed, but there are some devices that can drop Speaker Level down to Line Level.
Let's see if I can find some of those -
So final update: My ultimate goal was to stream line-in audio from my LP to the sonos. I had originally thought the easiest way to do that was to figure out how to broadcast to IP... I was wrong - it was definitely through AirPlay. But what was missing in that equation -and the part that I was stuck with for a while- was that audio input to the Mac isn't directly re-routed to the out, so you need another tool. This tutorial led me to a super simple app called LineIn from RogueAmeoba - (although it looks like they have replaced that with a tool called Soundsource.)
So in the end this is the final setup. My record player to the Behringer U-Phono to my Macbook Pro. The Macbook is running SonoAir (linked above) and LineIn. Flawless sound. So for $30 (cost of the U-Phono) it works. I have to leave my MacBook in USB plug-in range of my record player, but for now, that's way better than paying for a new Connect. I played one of my favorite old Getz/Gilberto LPs tonight and it made me happy.
Thanks to everyone who gave advice, it was much appreciated and it led me down the right path. I will be enjoying all my old LPs in any room of the house I want to now. (for the 20 minutes until I have to go get up and turn the record over....)
I believe you're looking for something like the Behringer UFO202. It's USB and has a phono input.
Super cheap and versatile. This is not for audiphiles!
Use a separate USB audio device with a line-input. Something like this should do it - the sales pitch is "copy your vinyl to PC" but the input side has a line/phono level switch so it should be fine.
I use something similar but higher end and more expensive from Roland/Edirol as the main sound card for my desktop PC because I fliplost my everfucking mindshit with trying to match gaming-ish PC headsets to regular computer soundcards MANY years ago, and then I gave up on USB headsets after having them crap out on me at the USB-interface-part once too many.
(That Edirol box has an input gain dial from line-to-mic-level so it can cope really well with more-or-less-sensitive headset mics. It can be run in needs-a-special-driver mode for 24bit 96kHz super-serious stuff, or flip a literal switch on the side and it runs as USB Audio Class-Compliant and just works.)
All you need is a Behringer UFO202
I very much second Icecast. But you are going to need something to feed Icecast. Take a look at DarkIce or maybe even MPD.
The Pi doesn't have a Audio In, just an Audio Out. You can use a $5 USB sound-card for the input, but turntables normally need a preamp. If your turntable doesn't have a preamp built-in, I would highly recommend the $30 USB Behringer UFO202. It is a very high quality USB DAC and ADC. I use it so much, I have two of them.
To anyone interested but confused like I was, it's actually the UFO202
Nope, they still make them.
BEHRINGER UFO202, Silver with phono input. $30.
BEHRINGER UCA202, Silver with optical output. $30.
BEHRINGER UCA222, Red with optical output. $30.
Same software for all thee of them
Well, getting a MacBook just for music isn't the end of the world. I just picked up a MacBook Pro recently but am dissatisfied with the audio output. It's surprisingly bad during quiet parts and sounds all 1-bit noisy. Anyways...
Get a decent external digital to analog converter like this: [link]
I recommend this one since it's cheap and non-over sampling for CD audio. You can also find small USB ones. I personally use the $50 Lexicon Alpha. Everyone will tell you that you need hi-res audio, and I will get down votes for saying this since I'm not supposed to, but you will be perfectly fine with CD audio. Engineers in the late seventies found out that all you need is 16-bit 44100 Hz to satisfy human ears. Although, more recently, research indicates that 20 bit 56 kHz is the more accurate potential extreme of human hearing: [link]
I find the only practical source for decent-quality audio production is CDs from the 80s and early 90s. You can find plenty of downloads from the PirateBay, and unfortunately, the record industry no longer offers good quality music to purchase, so I BitTorrent frequently. (I'm not anti-capitalist or consumerist or anything, the record companies just leave me no choice. I'm not paying $50 for a used CD from the 80s.)