Never ever use acetone on plastics.
It looks like someone has already used too aggressive of a cleaner on.
Try a little Dawn on a microfiber towel followed by a plastic polish like Nexus.
Novus 7136 Plastic Polish Kit - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CBX5QEZ1D06VE8GEYSX5
Good luck-
it was too cold for CA so I used the NOVUS 7136 Plastic Polish Kit
Novus Plastic Polishing Kit. Follow the instructions. Alternatives are tooth paste (the whitening stuff, not the clear-ish stuff).
Choose a kit you’re excited about, because you’re likely to finish it. Tamiya will be a better quality kit and also a bit easier to assemble, removing that potential frustration. Any modern kit will generally have a lot of tiny parts, regardless of the scale.
New nav DVD (which is what the DVD is for, only for reading maps), all that does is update the maps themselves. There will be no change in the apps/interface/any of that. Carplay etc? Absolutely not, you're about 10 years too old for that with a 2008. They sell retrofit kits that essentially add an android auto head-unit on top of your existing one that you can press a button and swap over to. Depending on whether you have the CIC or CCC nav (post a picture of your nav screen), it may require a new screen as well. $500-1000
Headlights - https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG
Backup camera - besides checking settings like someone else mentioned, take a look at the camera lens. Could be cloudy/scratched just like the headlights. Upgrading the camera with your existing head unit is unlikely. If you did go the android auto route and add one of those boxes, they often are set up to allow additional aftermarket camera connections.
I have used this stuff hundreds of times to fix scratches and marks on consoles, plastics on arcade machines, and pinball plastic pieces (like the ball ramps and bumper plastics). I can’t recommend it enough. Follow the instructions and you’ll be amazed. Novus 7136 Plastic Polish Kit - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1FHHPFYTK0MSGC3XGG27?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I worked for a light aircraft manufacturer in my twenties, and this is what we used to remove scratches, hazing, or blemishes from the aircraft’s plastic windows. This is what you want.
I recommend getting the kit with levels 1, 2, and 3 included. You probably only need 1 and 2, but this stuff is incredible and great to have around. If you keep it in a cool, dry cupboard, it keeps. I’ve had a lot going on four years now and it’s holding up fine.
NOVUS 7136 Plastic Polish Kit - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG/
I actually have polished my gauge cluster with this kit and it produced amazing results. Mine wasn’t nearly as bad as yours but I’m guessing you could spend additional time/effort polishing with step 3 before proceeding down the line. https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=plastic+scratch+remover+kit&qid=1631739529&sr=8-4
I’ve tried this on some transparent plastic before pretty sure it would do the trick try on a small part first or another scratched glass if you can.
NOVUS 7136 Plastic Polish Kit - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_WW73CFF5SQ78K9213P1K
I am wanting to removing fine scratches from gear shifter and exterior door trim, can I use this product?
There was a review on this product someone used it to remove scratches from their shifter as well. would this be okay to use on the outer black door trim too?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2IS69AN9A0OWP&psc=1
This stuff. Follow the directions that come with it.
You probably won't be able to buff out smaller scratches entirely, but I'm sure you can minimize their appearance with a good plastic polish.
At the following product link on Amazon for Novus plastic polish, there's actually a customer who uploaded a picture of an SP he applied said product to: Novus
The scratches are not entirely gone and the SP is decidedly more shiny afterwards, but it definitely helped reduce the overall appearance of the scratches. Have a look and decide for yourself if the results are desirable.
Definitely stay away from more abrasive products, as the color of the SP is painted and you'll most likely just take off the paint and cause more scratches in the process.
indeed, it was suggested to use NOVUS Plastic Polishing Kit
If you are specifically speaking of plastic finish preservation/restoration, I would suggest NOVUS 3-step polish. Simichrome (note spelling) would be good for the hardware, used sparingly and lightly. Avoid 'waxes' (as the Turtle Wax product seems to include) as they can build up and also fill in imprints and the like. All polishing should be done to a minimum, with careful storage and an occasional polish with a dry, soft cloth the first lines of defense.
It really depends on how deep the scratches are.
Your best bet for minimal scuffs and scratches would be a plastic polishing compound. I use Novus pretty often when I do acrylic fabrication professionally, it is fine enough not to alter the optics if you use it properly.
If the scratches are deep enough to require sanding, I would advise against it since you risk removing too much material and altering the optics irreparably. If the scratches are too deep for polishing compound, you'll have to just live with it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You may want to move to the 8oz. I haven't used this yet, but someone from r/vive said yesterday they used it to repair scratches on a delicate lens (more important for functionality than your t top). I just bought this to try on my vive that has a scratched lens. If you'd want to wait a couple days I can update you on my success!
I've starting using Novus, which seems to be fairly popular with other coin collectors. It comes in a pack of 3, with one bottle for fingerprints and dirt, one for light scratches, and one for heavy scratches. Very happy with it so far.
I put it back in the box because I don't like dust covers. I put round piece of plexiglass on the platter when I'm not using my turntable.
If you need to restore yours, you can try the Novus kit.
https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG
Otherwise, a trip to your auto parts store to find a headlamp restoration kit might work.
It won't be perfect like it was when it was brand new, but you can try Novus for that.
I bought one from these guys, works well and looks nice.
To get rid of the already existing scratches and add a protective layer of wax try this stuff, I've had good results with it. Other plastic polish kits are out there but I can't vouch for any personally.
Side note: grab a polish kit to clean up the scratches on the dustcover, makes a huge difference.
I am going to sand it and get the lens polished up to a shine. :) Here's my parts list to get the job done.
https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XDRKEGC/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R3S88JY/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LU2XJU/
A video that got me convinced it will work. Not the best video, but shows the process well to reinforce it will work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HInC0fXsjc
NOOOOO! The magis eraser is too abrasive your whole display will look foggy.
Plastic polish is the answer.
NOVUS 7136 Plastic Polish Kit - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_YEK0T561MNRTY6GXWS0T
Side note: Pick up some plastic polish like the Novus kit, it'll clear up the cloudiness on that TT dustcover nicely.
https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/
I've used this on glass and acrylic tanks
NOVUS 7136 Plastic Polish Kit - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_FGZDYE8C043FDZ8WZGQ8
For the lid.
Nice find. I love Beo tables.
Try this
NOVUS 7136 Plastic Polish Kit - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FPA6YD4EZ1YYJQCB2Y7N
I like these polishes for CDs and DVDs: https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
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Item B002UD0GIG | - | - | 0.0/5.0 |
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Have you tried a Novus plastic polish kit? I’ve heard that they work pretty well.
Yea try goo gone, and if that doesn't work do a Google search for remov paint without damag plastic.
Otherwise your only chance is Novus.
I read on the CGC Forums about people using plastic restorer (like for car headlights) to fix scratches. I have this on order:
https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/
> I also learned how to lacquer the pens, I use a spray lacquer and what I like to call my spray box, I use this so the spay doesn’t go everywhere. Before I did this I sanded them starting with 120 grit paper and going up to 1000 grit using the sand paper, after that I used some sponge backed pads which started at 1500 grit and went up to 12000 grit. I am never sure how long I should be sanding them though.
See if you can get the Novus plastic polish https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG is the US amazon link. With what you describe on sanding process, you can then move to the Novus and have very good looking pens without a lacquer layer. I also think you get better overall results.
For your question. Sand each grit until you can't see scratches from the previous grit. If you move on and see a bigger scratch than the previous, back up a level and go until it is removed. Off of the lathe you would switch directions each time, on the lathe you just have to keep an eye on it. Once you get things on a solid base, progressive grits go quickly.
> To get rid of tool marks in the blank go over the piece multiple times not adjusting the positioning of the tool, the nature of the lathe is that it spins and when you move the tool you will get trenches in the material, when you go over it multiple times you end up lathing away the ridges.
If you are getting ridges, either your tool isn't set up properly, or your feed speed is wrong. You should see tool marks, but not ridges. If you have a pic of the blank in the lathe as you work it, that would be helpful.
> And lastly, I need to find something I can put up the pen barrel so that I can sand or lathe down the whole length, so far my search has been fruitless.
Make it. If you have a standard internal thread, make what you need to thread the pen blank on to work on it.
That's a lot of info to your questions. But finally I want to say good job. You really are getting the hang of this, and it is showing.
Excellent work! I've heard people have success with this too for varying levels of scratches
https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/
Then you can put lens protectors on to stop it happening again
Buy this, and get a foam pad that can attach to a cordless drill. It's amazing stuff. It also includes UV protection in the final step. I've had experience with this many times for people in my club
https://smile.amazon.com/NOVUS-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG
NOVUS 7136 Plastic Polish Kit - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_x8ELybCGS2NRK
Blue bottle #1 is a very mild abrasive that will take the coating off without damaging the screen underneath
i use this with good results
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
none that i know that work well but this removed some fine scratches I had no problem
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Scratch your monitor. My chosen method was to drop a case side panel.
Buy Novus plastic polish 3 step kit. I bought mine on ebay but it's available on amazon too.
3.-5. Do steps 1-3 of the Novus plastic polish kit. I repeated ad infinitim because I saw no visible results other than removing the anti glare coating. When I finally turned the monitor on I was astonished to see how not-noticeable the still-deep scratch is.
Take a look at Novus plastic polish, too. I've had great success with this stuff.