Try the custom AI to help you find products that Reddit loves.
Here is the amazon link. You wire one side from the power supply and the other to the hotend/bed.
Use the plug from the mainboard to turn it on
Probably not as dramatic as the internet says (myself included), but the original board struggles to provide enough power to the heated bed. It can melt down and kill the heated bed part of the printer. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK takes the big power draw off the main board.
PM me if you want to fall down a rabbit hole of upgrades for your printer!
With the basic temperature control for the bed, it's basically go or no go. ie "get to the requested temperature, then turn off". Then as the thermistor detects it getting cooler, it switches it on again to get it back to temp. It results in large temperature swings.
With PWM/PID, it's basically cycling on and off very rapidly (like hundreds of times a second) at a rate sufficient to maintain the requested temperature all the time.
My understanding is the transistor on the AnyCubic board that switches the bed can't handle the high frequency PWM signal and goes up in smoke eventually... so the solution is to install a larger transistor (a type of transistor called a MOSFET) that can handle switching the current at the high frequency. https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK
It's an easy install, it just goes on the heavy wires between the power supply and the hotbed, and the small wires go to the hotbed port on the board. Then instead of the board switching the hotbed directly, it's switching the MOSFET.
There are ways to make it cheaper.
A MOSFET (basically a relay that switches the circuit for the heated bed) would be a huge upgrade.
You can flash the firmware of the board with proper security measures in place. Lookup Marlin firmware.
That would be your number one tasks and a huge safety upgrade.
There are lots of tutorials on how to do both.
This specific item would work right? I'm going to attribute the poor reviews and burnt circuits to user error. And I'll be directly wiring the power connections and avoid using the green connectors. Any kind of risk involving fire is too much of a risk.
Did anyone of you do the mosfet mod on the msp? I bought this mosfet I am wondering if it will work or will this specific cause more problems? Seeing that most people use a different mosfet for the msp.
I bought two of these
BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ReFBAbDEDNSJ1
I have not yet upgraded my PSU, the stock one seems ok.
You should also go to Home Depot and get some 16 gage wire to plug things up. I like buying red wire and then drawing black lines all over it if I use it for ground. Not good form, but it saves me from having to buy more wire that lies dormant.
Also a set of spade connectors would be good for making sure the connections are secure (don’t recall what size I used on mine though)
Wasn't this one was it? Picked up the select V2 on black friday and grabbed this one for the bed. Wasn't really sure how to judge the quality, but seemed to have decent enough reviews.
Yeah, I've been researching the most recommended upgrades and the mosfet is on that list. Is this all I would need for that? or are there additional screws/wires I would need as well?
It's a super easy mod to do. The parts are like $8 on Amazon and you print the mount. This is the first thing I did on my Maker Select.
You can get the MOSFET cheaper and with Prime shipping on Amazon than they listed.
BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n390ybKD29412
thank you for this post. i am not OP but just got a Maker Select, grabbed the board from amazon and the print from thingiverse and will upgrade my printer ASAP!
Amazon, here's one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just found out that the logic voltage of the board is 12-24V because it's made for 3D-printers not arduino's. What would you recommend? Using a transistor to power the MOSFET? Using a MOSFET to power the bigger MOSFET? mosfetception?
Get something like this, you need it anyways as a safety precaution.
BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_zlsUFbK1WK669
He just asked for details, on the chance he isn't interested here is what I sent him:
Here is all the info I could find. The company that first made it doesn't exist anymore, so here is an article with some of its specs:
Here are some pics of the frame and the parts I'm including:
Here are the amazon listings for the extruder, end stops, and mosfet (optional use depending on your electronics):
As far as I'm aware, the stepper motors should all still work, as should the heat bed. Before it bit the dust I use to print with the heat bed at 100c for ABS, so it was pretty solid. The power supply on the bottom should also be good. The biggest weakness when this printer released was its extruder that constantly jammed, and its faulty Z end stop that when it didn't trigger correctly sent the heat bed crashing into the extruder. So I ordered new end stops and an extruder that I never got to mounting, and haven't bothered looking for the electronics to run everything. I'd love for someone learning to build their own printer to have these parts, so I'm only looking for $100 for everything if you cover shipping.
Here are most of the parts (less consumables) that I used:
Yeah, maybe my post wasn't clear.
Printer board is an MKS Gen 1.4: https://reprap.org/wiki/File:MksGenV14-Pinout.png
Mosfet board is one of those cheap things from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK
This is a DIY printer that started life as an Anet A8, but now is a mix between an AM8 mod (bed and frame) and a Prusa MK3S clone (extruder), all running Klipper and Octoprint.
Currently this external Mosfet is controlled by D7 (the onboard Mosfet output for the second extruder) and powers the bed. The hotend is on D8 (because its Mosfet is a bit beefier), the extruder fan is on D9 and the print fan is on D10.
Filament sensor and BLTouch are on D10 and D6.
I'd like to use D7 to power an enclosure fan, but to do this I need to control the external Mosfet from a different pin, ideally D4 or D5 (which are marked as "servo" pins on the pinout diagram). I've tried various other pins and combinations with +5V and GND and various resistors in between, but I can't get the Mosfet to switch.
BIQU Heat Bed Power Module... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V-ExCbW5S74QS
Yeah the a8 is kinda the lower end of printers. You can fix a lot of the problems with it by adding one of these for your hotend
Biqu on Amazon
Do you have a specific board that you would recommend? This was one I saw linked on thingiverse earlier:
$10 Mosfet with 2 day shipping: https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK
There are a lot more reviews for it on the US Amazon. They are all just the same MOSFET Board from China, bulk purchased on AliExpress and resold.
I got the one on Amazon, this one BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_XgMDlp1mX2HEn
Just ran into this while doing a search. I got a v2.1 for Xmas as well.
Have fought many battles, won't go into it here, you'd be reading for hours, LOL!
But I did install the MOSFET upgrade, as well as installing a 300W power supply. One's a safety issue, the other is so I can safely run a higher temp hotend with elevated bed temps. The 200W unit they used is marginal at best (trust me, I'm an Electronics Tech for 47 years...).
Here's the MOSFET board I used:
BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer (About $11)
and the Power Supply: eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project ($18 - $20, varies)
I also got some cork sheets to put under the hot bed at Michael's called ArtWall Cork Tiles 12:x 12" - used the App and got 40% off cost less then $5! I used some 3M adhesive (468MP) strips stolen from a sheet I got when I bought a Gizmodorks PEI sheet I put on a glass plate stolen from an old Canon scanner that was toast. :-) Recycling ...LOL! Nice thing was it's DEAD flat, and FREE!
Well that's all for now. Any Questions will be answered next time I drop by Reddit (which is pretty infrequently, sorry!).
Why do that when Amazon Prime has it?
This is the one I use on my Monoprice i3.
I'll start with the non-printable mods:
Replaced the PSU with a 750w ATX PSU I had lying around.
If you do this, you will more than likely need to add a power resistor to the 5v rail. I also removed all the original wires and connectors from the PSU and resoldered just what I needed with better rated wire.
Glass bed on top of the aluminum. I just went to Lowes and got them to cut a few pieces of single pane glass.
Mosfet circuit for the heated bed:
Upgraded Y Carriage:
Geared Pulley to replace the smooth one:
Upgraded Heated Bed, this bed heats up slow and I also lost a little bit of build volume. I plan on getting something better here very soon. Once it's up to temp it works well though.
Inductive Sensor for auto level:
Copper Tape Because the inductive sensor can't see glass I put this on the bottom side.
To get the sensor working, you'll have to change the firmware unless you only want to use it as a limit switch. The only option that i'm aware of is Skynet which is based on Marlin and works fairly well. You can find that on their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/skynet3ddevelopment/
Blue LED Extruder Fan (because the original broke). I don't remember where I got this from. I'd like to find an RGB one! ha
I added a bunch of WS2812 LEDs controlled by an Arduino at the moment, I am using OctoPi so eventually i'll have that control them but at this point they're set to UV colors because it looks cool.
Y Carriage Risers:
The Y carriage sits too low and will smack into the Y axis motor so I made these risers to solve that:
Y Belt Clamp: You'll need one for the new carriage, but I cannot find the one that I used.
Auto level bracket: Though I only have PLA and it kept warping so I made a metal version of it:
Anti-Z Wobble I modified this but no longer have the file, I also printed a cylinder to wedge into the hole above the lead screws.
Bearings I used:
Belt Tentioners I can't remember which ones I finally used.
I think this is everything. If I remember something else i'll post it.
I bought the Maker Select V2 a few weeks ago, so I'll give you a dump of what I've bought so far:
MOSFET - You'll also need some 14 gauge wire, spade connectors, and something (like velcro) to mount it inside the case.
PEI Sheet - After going through tape/hairspray/glue this is what you'll end up wishing you started with. I bought some standard window glass from a big box store and had them cut it to size. I used the thermal pads at first, but I prefer just clipping it on. This way I can have 4 different glass beds to swap among.
Raspberry Pi 3 - OctoPrint is so much nicer than transferring the sd card back and forth.
Fan - DiiCooler or CiiCooler or a few others you can print out that are compatible with this fan (I think, I haven't finished printing them yet).
Y carriage plate - Not sure what the difference between this and yours is - I haven't installed mine yet).
Also ordered a couple rolls of Inand PLA from MicroCenter online.
This is it - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sounds good. Any recommendations for specific mosfets?
This one is the first one that pops up.
I believe it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493406781&sr=8-1
DO NOT use jumpers from the 5A to the 11A connector (if that is what /u/KevMag meant). Run a seperate set of 14 gauge wires from the power supply to the ramps board.
But as a note, you will burn up that 5A/11A connector with a few hours of use. The ramps board isn't designed to handle the load for some reason. Buy an external mosfet board like this, https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488431161&sr=8-3&keywords=mosfet
and wire it like this, http://imgur.com/hGU5Ni6