What is Reddit's opinion of Bits Limited SCG-3MVR Smart Strip Advanced Power Strip, 7-Outlets, Surge Protector, 15A, 4ft. Cable, Pack of 1?

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I hate auto-on/off with subwoofers. Nothing is more jarring then going through a quiet section in a movie, but then something big happens, but the subwoofer misses the beginning of it when it comes back on.

Some subwoofer have a 12v trigger cable option, but many don't.

I solved a similar issue by getting a smart power strip (not smart as in app controlled, but smart in that it can sense when the master piece of equipment is on, and turns on/off the rest).

Here is an example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P1QJXQ/

Your amp (or whatever other device you chose) gets plugged into the control outlet. When the power strip sees power flowing to that outlet (because you switched that device on), it powers up the slave outlets, so your board comes on.

Here’s an example:

Bits Limited SCG-3MVR Smart Strip Advanced Power Strip, 7-Outlets, Surge Protector, 15A, 4ft. Cable, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B7RQ2RF8JAQ0ANWZBCZV

It saved me from constantly having to plug and unplug my board’s power supply whenever I wanted to play.

You could plug your ALU and BitPixel into something like this:

Bits Limited SCG-3MVR Smart Strip Advanced Power Strip, 7-Outlets, Surge Protector, 15A, 4ft. Cable, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A4WHEWYD3HTC4MAS09RY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/SCG-3MVR-Smart-Strip-7-Outlets-Protector/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=s_1/147-9402934-8049524?pd_rd_w=Wp28y&pf_rd_p=0668dc47-8683-4428-b997-7d0770e6d4f8&pf_rd_r=1G6RDG0QBMEC1NETZGWH&pd_rd_r=578131e5-50e2-4590-881e-8e00182cd...

When she turns on one device, everything else that’s plugged into the strip will power up, too, assuming that they are left turned on. I use it to turn on two power amps, phono preamp, bluesound streamer, room perfect dsp, etc as soon as I turn on the preamp. Works perfectly.

Hey, closing the loop. Thanks for the guidance here. I ended up getting an Audiosource AMP100vs amplifier and 2 Jamo 801 bookshelf speakers and hooking em up with an aux cable. Sound is great.

Not getting the sound drop outs during quiet scenes, which is good: the auto-off takes about 5 mins of no input to trigger so that's good. Problem is: it takes 8 seconds for the amp to warm up after going into auto-off. So if we're just paused or muted for a while, unpausing or un-muting means we miss audio for 8 seconds. Not a huge deal but annoying.

Solution: have an 'auto-switching' power strip coming tomorrow, so basically your recommended solution but a bit more integrated. When tv pulls power, strip energizes the amp outlet; when tv stops pulling power, strip de-energizes the amp outlet. Hoping that will mean the amp turns on and off with the TV.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_lyMUFbSJBK9W7

Thanks for your advice, really helpful!

What you want is a smart power strip. Shut it down properly and power everything down with the single press of a button.

My brother and his family were struggling with their new 1 tb cap with Comcast. He discovered the rest of the family wasn't always backing out of apps like Vue/Pandora/Netflix before shutting off the tv because they were expecting the hdmi cec to put the fire tvs to sleep. Either the FireTV or tv hdmi cec wasn't working correctly but he would turn on a tv later and find apps that had been running for hours while everyone was sleeping or at work/school. He added a smart power strip to every tv which shuts off power to FireTV when the tv gets turned off. It does take the FireTVs a little extra time to power up vs. waking up from sleep but it has solved his particular cap issue. I think this is the brand strip he bought: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-SCG-3M-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482162910&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+power+strip

You need a smart power strip.

Then you plug your harmony hub into a red outlet or leave it plugged into a separate source, plug your TV into the Blue outlet, and plug all your switched loads into the green outlets.

Program a watch tv activity to TURN THE TV ON FIRST WITH A DELAY OF 5 SECONDS!, Very important!

Then allow it to turn on the rest of your equipment. It works very well.

Keep in mind, old av receivers require a standby current to keep their settings once their super capacitor or internal battery goes dead. This is rarely a user replaceable item, so once it dies, it dies, and the receiver forgets about settings every time power is pulled.

Take a look at smart power strips like this one. Without cracking one open, I bet there is a hall effect sensor on the master outlet that controls a bank of relays on the switched outlets. Just connect anything like a receiver or TV to the master and the speakers to the switched.

I used to have a cab set up that way. Then I got this. http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-4941-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ

It made it much easier, since getting to the regular power strip/outlet/computer power button was a pain. Now I just need to turn on the switch for the cabinet, and go. :)

I mounted my motherboard and components to a 1/4" piece of MDF which was then mounted on the bottom of my cab. I attached the motherboard to the 1/4" piece of MDF with nylon spacers and pan head sheet metal screws. This allowed for air to get underneath the motherboard. I didn't bother with fiber washers or anything.

Depending on how much space you have in your cab, you might need less fans than you think.

As far as speakers go, you are better off buying cheap car speakers and wiring them to an amp. This allows you more flexibility with mounting. If you do want to use the 2.1 speaker system you have, you can use a smart power strip to power everything on, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-4941-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ/

And yes ipac2 is good for 2 player setup. You can just wire up an arcade button to turn on/off your computer.

You can also get an advanced outlet strip with a control outlet which turns the other outlets on/off if the device in the control is on or off

I think what he means is turn the sub off when the receiver is off. You're just wasting power anyway leaving it in auto mode. A better solution might be a 12v trigger cable if your AVR/sub supports that.

The option I use is a smart switch strip:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ/

or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058DHO1W/

Plug your TV or AVR into the master outlet, and the sub into one to the auto switch outlets. Voltage changes turn it on/off automatically with whatever's in the master outlet.

Rather than add hundreds of lines of code to an app for a feature less than 2% of people would use here is a practical solution to your needs:

https://www.amazon.com/SCG-3MVR-Smart-Strip-7-Outlets-Protector/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=sr_1_11?crid=194VKANTJK7IJ&keywords=power+strip+auto+shut+off&qid=1646159812&sprefix=power+strip+auto+power+off%2Caps%2C84&sr=8-11

Plug your TV into the blue port and when you switch it off it turns the green ports off. Yes, when you turn the TV back on, your device will have to boot up but TM can be set to open on boot.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P1QJXQ/

That's the one I got most recently, though it's gone up in price a bit...

https://www.amazon.com/SCG-3MVR-Smart-Strip-7-Outlets-Protector/dp/B000P1QJXQ/

That's the one I have, though it has gone up a bit in price since I purchased it...

I'm going with this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_3RYH839QSCMYE4C208T0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Plug your PC into the Blue receptacle, and wire it's power switch to a spot on the cabinet. When the PC turns off or on, it energizes or de-energizes the green receptacles. Things like your 5v and 12v power supplys, subwoofer and monitor will automatically turn off and one of you they're plugged into green outlets. You can cut the cord end off of the powerstrip to connect to one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BZH224R/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_AW5YJMSSDE6FV355VYTK?psc=1

Mounting it into the rear of your cabinet will allow you to use an external power cord to plug into the wall.

You can do as already suggested or do what I did and use a power strip with advanced features if you want to call it that. I turn on my soundbar and my Roku and TV turn on or I turn off my soundbar and my Roku and TV turn off. If you don't have the Roku I'd assume you could just connect the lights to this power strip. I usually just turn them on/off via voice since I don't want them on EVERY TIME the TV is on. They look great at night and okay during the day so I mainly use them at night.

Seeing the product and what it offers will make all I said above make more sense.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ

 

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Thanks so much for that solved update. There's no way I would have made that correlations to take those steps. Never thought to connect my tv to smart things, let alone thinking that it could connect with the govee product line. My only other idea was using one of those powerstrips that power on other devices when one draws power. But that likely wouldn't of worked since the immersion light seems to lose it's settings when unplugged.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P1QJXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Commercial option

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P1QJXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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This is what I use at my house

 

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I bought the cheapest smart power strip I could find. It works perfectly

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_7J1E3SCEGBPB24SJQXH8?\_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It looks like SmartThings doesn't support Bravia TVs.

Home Assistant supports Bravia TVs and it used to support TP-Link Kasa but unfortunately TP-Link removed the ability for HASS to control the Kasa products recently: TP-Link Remove Local API

So I don't see a "sophisticated" way of doing complex automation between the Bravia and TP-Link Kasa smart-plugs.

However, a simpler approach might work by using a master/slave power-strip such as: https://www.amazon.com/SCG-3MVR-Smart-Strip-7-Outlets-Protector/dp/B000P1QJXQ with this strip, you plug the TV into the "control" outlet and then plug in your downstream devices into the controlled outlets and those will automatically turn on/off based on the power draw from the "control" outlet, so that when the TV is on, the controlled outlets will be on and vice-versa.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

No problems at all...

Everyone is overthinking this.... this is what you’re describing!!

Bits Limited SCG-3MVR Smart Strip Advanced Power Strip, 7-Outlets, Surge Protector, 15A, 4ft. Cable, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_L3rLBbJKAERMH

I have the same situation. This worked for us . https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P1QJXQ/

We had to get one of these. Works great

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P1QJXQ/

Some ideas:

• ~$30 - Sorbothane bumpers
• $30 - Smart Power Strip to "turn off" plugs when the master device powers off.
• $35 - Chromecast Audio and an optical cable.
• $50 - Speaker stands.
• $75 - MiniDSP UMIK-1 measurement microphone (and REW).
• $7 - LightDims to dim bright LEDs.
• $105 - MiniDSP room correction

I don't use a raspberry pi, but this is the strip I use for my PC based MAME machine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_ZY6.yb0ZCJ85T

Get an autoswitch smart strip.

I use one of these:

Smart Strip SCG-3M Energy Saving Surge Protector with Autoswitching Technology, 7-Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kZ7oybSPNDPE9