What is Reddit's opinion of BLACK+DECKER 12V MAX Cordless Drill/Driver (BDCDD12C)?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Im a construction pro. This is a good little home use, small project drill. You seriously can't beat it for the price.

BLACK+DECKER 12V MAX Cordless Drill/Driver (BDCDD12C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111N8L7I/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_M7D01143FVDYZAN2ZJF3

You can try to rent a drill from http://thethingery.com/ or the tool library.

Amazon sells a Black and Decker cordless drill for $66 https://www.amazon.ca/Perceuse-sans-BLACK-DECKER-BDCDD12C/dp/B0111N8L7I/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=black+and+decker+drill&qid=1595544621&sr=8-10

It depends what kind of building and its age you live in.. you might need anchors etc.

Honestly $200 for the visit is kind of fair these days.. travel, tools, parking etc aren't cheap these days.. it is not about the hammer but how to use it that is expensive.

I can recommend a few.

Cheap black and decker around 30 USD, good if you dont plan on abusing it much. These last about 6 months tops

Dewalt, a bit of an investment but trustworthy as frig, if you treat it right and dont throw it at a wall repeatedly, should last 10 years and all youll have to do is replace the battery when it wont hold a charge

Slightly cheaper Dewalt, still trusty as shet., Same as above, but slightly smaller chuck. This is ideal if u can afford it

Cheap but corded and powerful as frig, Porter cable, Cheap, can last up to 10 years if you will it to

Milwaukee with a compact drill that I personally love Great drill, we rent one of these out and it gets abused frequently and its still chuggin

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the rules for power drills:

for cheap and powerful go with a corded drill

always get one with a 3/8" chuck (the part that clamps the bit) or larger, 3/8 is most common and will almost always work for ya.

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as for brands:

expensive but reliable as frig: Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee (can be kinda cheap if ya know where to look)

reasonably priced and decent quality: Also Makita, again Milwaukee, Ryobi, porter cable, some black and deckers

Cheap, will get the job done but wouldnt trust my life with: most black and deckers, anything under $20, and most rechargeable ones with built in batteries.

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this is just my opinion, I have worked at a hardware store for 3 years and this is my experience with drills. feel free to message me!

This is what I’ve got. Perfect for assembling furniture:

BLACK+DECKER 12V MAX Cordless Drill/Driver (BDCDD12C)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111N8L7I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_50FC3DQCTXTCP2EMPWZR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Use a hand drill for the pins, not the dremel. A drill is easier to hold and execute on, and you can feather the speed with the trigger versus the rotary or switch adjustment of the dremel. The start of the hole should be drilled at speeds under the slowest Dremel speed, otherwise you likely will switch it on outside the jig, and attempt to insert it while at it's lowest speed (which is still too fast for touchdown to the polymer). Pick up a basic hand drill from Amazon or Harbor Freight (if they are still open).

For the rest of the build, if you've never used a dremel, then the answer is as low as you can go, assuming you don't want to mess up the build. The Marine Gun Builder videos are great and probably THE videos to watch on how-to's. Also I have a Black and Decker rotary tool. You don't need the branded "Dremel". You would only need that to insure parts compatibility, but you don't really need too many bits for the build.

Things to note coming from a wood worker...don't use a round tool, to make a flat surface. Dremel's are circular movements, so they are not the ideal tool for trimming the pieces off near the rails. Yes you can do it, but if you opt for this path, do not cut all the way to the final depth with the dremel. Leave enough to sand flat with sandpaper and a known flat tool, or with a file. Known flat tools can be a straight piece of finished plywood (not partical board), a thick metal ruler, a piece of corian, or a designated sanding tool from the store. If you use a file, make sure you have a steel or brass brush to clean out the teeth of the file from the polymer build up. I built one recently using the Fret cutter technique, along with sandpaper (120, 180, 220, 320, 400, 600) and it went over well and extremely fast. The dremel is best used for the guide rod channel, but even that, I used the fret cutters to cut an "X" into the removal portion and reduced the amount I needed to a triangular tooth shape. I recommend this cone shaped bit to sand out the channel, followed up by higher grit versions to smooth it out.

Lastly, the part that is anti-woodworker... the pin holes need to be 95% straight --not 100%-- and drilled independent of the opposite facing hole. The intention is to be able to insert the pin, but have it slightly struggle to come out thru the opposite hole, because it isn't the same angle as the first. This struggle is what holds the pin in. If it is 100% straight, and 100% the same size as the rod, gravity (and other bullet causing forces) will have it's way with it, and the pin will walk out. This is why they don't recommend a drill press to drill straight thru, but for whatever reason don't explain why they don't recommend it.