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BLACK+DECKER Angle Grinder Tool, 4-1/2-Inch, 6 Amp (BDEG400)?
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Normally I'd recommend getting a decent angle grinder, but if it's only 5 pavers, go cheap. If you have a Harbor Freight near you that's a great choice. Otherwise Amazon has a B&D for $30.
Use a small angle grinder with a metal cut-off wheel. Make sure to wear eye protection.
Sure thing! I upgraded to a heavy duty DeWalt but, you can find really inexpensive ones to start with: https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDEG400-Grinder-2-Inch/dp/B00RZV20CS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=angle+grinder&qid=1556909001&s=gateway&sr=8-3
It depends on what you are planning on doing with it. I just do some home project welding and I bought a Wen 7 Amp 4 1/2" angle grinder that was only about $30 when I got it. I also later bought a Black + Decker 6 Amp 4 1/2" angle grinder that is also about $30. I got 2 because it was faster for me to use one with a cut off wheel to cut a part, then weld it, then switch to the second one with a grinding wheel or flap disc to clean up the weld. So I am not using either one for long periods of time. And I have had both of them for a few years and they work great for me.
However if you want something with a longer duty cycle so you can cut a bunch of pieces or grind all the welds at once, then id go with a higher end tool.
A larger wheel size is good if you need to cut bigger items, or just do a lot of cuts, but it also makes cleaning up welds more difficult, especially if they are in a corner. So I like the 4 1/2" size that is more manageable.
I did also just get a 20v battery powered Bauer brushless angle grinder a few weeks ago, but so far I have only used it for cutting and shaping some aluminum 3/16" sheets. But it did cut those like butter.
I thought to reply to this message as 10 people up voted.
For context: My house was built around 1860 by English settlers with of rock and mortar. The walls are +/- 60cm thick(+/- 23.62 inches).
Knob/tube wiring was replaced years 20 ago with surface mounted switches/wall sockets. Network conduit was used and it looks rough. Add to that LAN cables plus security monitors.
The wall mounted wiring disappears into the ceiling or into the floorboards.
My objective was to 'put the cables in the wall'.
I'm not going to focus on the electricians work, this post is long enough as it is.
I can expand in a later post.
Before you start, get a decent set of gloves (preferably not leather), tape the room off(use plastic sheeting) and get ear protectors and safety glasses.
You are going to create more dust than you can imagine.
Additionally - clean with a broom and dustpan first, then vacuum. I've lost 2 Hoovers to this.
Lastly, my roof is 3meters high(9 feet) so I used a ladder and an extension lead as well.
My process after talking to various professionals and doing a lot of research:
- Use a metal sensor to ensure that you won't be cutting through any existing cable or water pipes. I use this model:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/254729025030
- Cut 2 parallel vertical grooves down the wall where you would like to install your switch/socket using (preferably) a small angle grinder(115mm disc size). Remember to use a masonry disc.
https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Grinder-6-5-Amp-BDEG400/dp/B00RZV20CS
- Use a wide flathead chisel and hammer to get the 'middle bit' of concrete out the wall. Similar to this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-HS1910-Scaling-Chisel-3-Inch/dp/B0009H5NKQ
It helps to put a box at the bottom of the groove to catch all the chunks and dust that fall out. Also helps not to step on bits that will scratch wooden floors or mess up your carpet.
Grab the grinder again, same blade/disc, and smooth the groove out, waving the disc gently from side to side, working from top to bottom. Get in as deep as possible, the conduit needs to be as deep as possible and we will still be plastering over it.
I assume you have already purchased your light switch/wall socket. You will also need a galvanised outlet box, similar to this one:
https://www.amazon.com/58361-1-Utility-Outlet-Construction-Galvanized/dp/B000HEKQRQ/
Fit your outlet box/es against the wall, draw a line around it with chalk/pencil. Use the grinder to cut on the lines. Due to the grinder disc diameter you wil end up cutting past the corners. This is ok. We will fix this later on.
The easiest way to remove the block of concrete is to cut the block smaller with your grinder and then use your hammer and chisel for chunkier parts.
In my case I had to use an impact drill plus a smart Makita oscillating multi tool... this takes the longest from my perspective.
Don't be scared to cut the hole deeper than needed, we can always add more concrete. Add the end of the day your galvanised outlet box needs to be flush to just a little deeper in the hole you've cut.
NB: The outlet box has cut aways where you will fit your conduit and connectors and eventually your wiring. After cutting your outlet box hole and deciding which cut away hole to use, grab your chisel, drill, multi tool or grinder and make your groove deeper by the outlet box cut away in the wall. This will ensure that there is little to no tension on your conduit - should you use stiff pvc like I did.
- Now you need to fit conduit. The ones we use are made from pvc and are rigid.
The States have these sexy ones:
https://www.amazon.com/Sealproof-Flexible-Non-metallic-Liquid-Tight-Electrical/dp/B0756MHW7K/
- Fit your conduit between your outlet box/es and up to your ceiling. You might have to run it all the way to your distribution box, in my case I can only access it up to the celling.
Feel free to use:
- Inspection Tees:
https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-conduit-fittings/9172040/
- Inspection elbows:
- Saddles- for fitting next to wooden beams in your ceilings:
https://www.voltexelectrical.com.au/p-399-stainless-steel-full-saddle-20mm-100-pack.aspx
- At this stage I had to connect all the wiring, sockets and switches. You don't have to if it's not required. It will make life easier if you don't have to.
I use 2 parts cement and 3 parts river sand. Less water is better - too much and you have to start adding sand and cement and you can mess things up. Once your consistency is good start with your outlet boxes. Remember, they need to be flush or just a little to deep in the cavity. If you over fill, remove the outlet box, scrape away and try again.
Be careful with your conduit. Don add concrete behind the conduit, focus on the side and in front. If there is tension on the conduit, feel free to use a telescope pole, broom, plank or anything else to keep the conduit in place and add your concrete around this area. It works better if you start from the bottom.
- Use a trowel to smooth it as best you can, don't worry on the bits on the side of the wall, don't worry if it's not extra smooth, as long as it's semi flush we're ok. AS the concrete dries you can spits it with water every now and again - I wait for 2 days but it normally takes a week to cure.
Trowel:
https://www.amazon.com/Goldblatt-3-Piece-Finishing-Premium-Plastering/dp/B08HCN6D73
- Now we have to 'sand' our concrete, a multi tool with a carbide bit can work but I prefer a rubbing brick:
https://www.amazon.com/14-293-Setters-Black-Silicone-Carbide/dp/B00BC2HIBE/
- Once you are happy that your concrete is even/flush with the existing plaster(or even just a little indented due to the drying of the concrete) you can use Polyfilla to even/plaster the concrete out:
A putty knife will work just fine for application.
Afterwards you can paint(check if you need a primer).
I'll add a link with some photos at a later stage.
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