Is it one of the brake disc screws? Ran into the same issue when changing a popped tube on a friend's Ghost; I actually stripped the hex head on it trying to remove it with my impact driver and even after cutting a slot into it with my dremel so I could use my flathead bit I still was damaging the head trying to get it out.
Contacted support and in my case they actually had some useful advice: heat. I should have known, the threads on all the brake disc screws have loctite blue applied to them. Usually loctite blue will break with a modest amount of force, but it was really well set and I couldn't apply enough without stripping the screw head. Applying heat causes the loctite to melt, as it's ultimately plastic, and then the screw comes off without too much fuss.
You want to apply high heat to the screw for a good 3-4 minutes, the brake disc is a big thermal mass given it's job is to convert kinetic energy into heat. You might be able to get away with a hair dryer, but a proper heat gun with a directed nozzle only costs like $30. After heating it start trying to torque it off, if it's not moving yet continue to apply heat for another minute, try again, repeat if needed.
I ended up using an automotive sprayer where I just poured it into a container and then sprayed it from there. The rattle cans are a little tricky to use sometimes depending on the angle, if you turn them upside down a lot of the time you will get a spatter or dripping marks.
I would also suggest getting a heat gun like the one linked below:
I basically would do one pass, hit it with the heat gun for about 30 seconds and then do another pass and heat it and repeat that until the entire rim was covered. I did about 5 sprays with heating it in between to dry it out and significantly cut my time down doing it.
Once you're done I would just recommend pulling the bags out that you inserted in the holes to cover the important hardware behind (ive heard a lot of stories of people forgetting and this shit getting wrapped around the components)
Thank you for your response. I was checking out some heat guns on Amazon, such as this one: (http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-HG1300-Dual-Temperature/dp/B004NDX7O6/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451924321&sr=1-9&keywords=heat+gun).
It says on the low setting, it reaches temps of 750 degrees. Am I to understand that this temperature is not going to destroy the ESC? I would obviously try to spread the heat evenly, and keep the nozzle back a bit, but 750 degrees seems awfully hot for the ESC.
Took me FOREVER, but finally have some time to properly continue the loop research.
First thing first, how is your PC doing? I hope it is doing great and it works as good as it looks. I think it turned out really great and it looks super rewarding.
Secondly, I am sorry to hear about your grandmother. My grandparents are almost there in that sense and it will suck when it happens. It does sound like you did well with the aftermath. Also, congrats on getting a house. My plan is to save enough by the end of next year. This build is not going to help in that, but I am telling myself that a couple of thousands won't set us back too much. Which is kinda true, but also at the same time not smart to do it now but I am too into it at this point and probably won't like waiting a year.
As a quick update about my current plan, I have decided to go with two loops and The Tower 900. Red/white/black theme, so need to start working on that.
For reference, I am aiming for something similar to this - https://pcpartpicker.com/b/xnGG3C. Less fans and hopefully more organized tubing, but in general I think it will look similar.
I mentioned earlier that I was interested in the tools you got, so if you don't mind I will list here what you pointed out and confirm with you if those are the products you used.
Now a couple of questions.
On a slightly different note, I used to play Runescape back in 2006/2007. Have you been around back then? If so, how did the game change since, besides graphics?