Anker cables are great, but their 10 foot charger cables are no where near $40-50. I want to know what product /u/DirkNowitzkisWife was referring to.
Anker PowerLine USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (10ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Galaxy S8, S8+, MacBook, Nintendo Switch, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10, Xiaomi 5 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIPYPY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
That's what I got, but just fair warning it's a very heavy cable. I'd say about twice the thickness of what you are probably accustomed to for charger wires. Overall though can't complain. It does it's job, and reasonably cheap IMO given its good construction
Although if you wanted USB C to C, I can't help you much, sorry. I would assume that most you find in Amazon be good quality, but for me personally, I will go for Anker every time if they have what I'm looking for, even if it's slightly more expensive.
It seems as though they do not have long c to c cables though, unless I am blind
Edit: Here's a comparison between a regular 3ft cable from Anker, and the one I linked earlier
My Oculus Link cable arrived this afternoon. I haven't connected it yet, but I thought I'd post some photos and information that compares it to the previously-recommended Anker Powerline USB C to USB 3.0 Cable (10ft).
The Link cable measures 201.5 inches (16.8 feet) from end to end and weighs 220g. That's ~~.92g~~ 1.09g per inch.
The Anker cable measures 121.5 inches (10.1 feet) from end to end and weighs 154g. That's ~~.79g~~ 1.27g per inch.
As you can see in one of the photos, the Link cable is slightly thinner than the Anker cable, and you can tell when you hold both in your hands.
While the Link cable is heavier (per inch), it feels the same as the Anker when you hold both cables. I had my wife do the same test, and she agrees. They might as well be identical.
The Link cable is definitely more flexible than the Anker cable. Whether it's the width that makes the difference or the material itself, it's easy to imagine the Link cable being a better HMD-connected experience.
The USB spec allows for a maximum cable length (~15ft in general, ~9ft for USB 3.0+) to guarantee performance, and (passive) extension cables can easily let you exceed that length. That’s why they only allow complete cables to carry the logo.
To extend USB beyond the standard length, you need an active repeater cable like this one.
This means that as long as you are using a type-c to type-c charger or a type-a to type-c charger that uses a cable that 100% sure has the 56k ohm resistor then most probably you are fine with any kind of dock.
Of course do not take this as a promise from my side and use these docks at your own risk, but as far as we know this is the actual issue behind the bricked Switches (and many bricked USB-C laptops).
Amazon points out if a cable has the necessary resistor, for example: https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527282413&sr=8-3&keywords=56k+ohm+resistor+usb+c
Don't use that
I'd say go with the OEM (Samsung ones) or Anker fast charge ones
USB C Charger, Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable (6ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, MacBook, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10 and More https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Z-wJBb4B3SRQ3
Btw I don't think Samsung fucked us
I'm glad we have type C it's Innovation it's the future
Usb c is better in every way except cost for now
Anker PowerLine 10' USB C to Standard USB Fast Charging cable
Anker PowerLine 10' Lightning to standard USB MFi certified cable
18 month warranty
Thank me later.
My buddy and I got this one to stream our college tourneys and it has pretty solid quality for what you're paying. I always used a dazzle before and this one was much better imo. Only bad thing is the installer for the drivers is not in english.
Here is a quality test I found and there's another one on the amazon reviews.
First of all, I love the ingenuity and thinking outside the box.
But you know you can string as many of these together as you'd like:
To extend your cable as long as you'd like it to be. I personally use 4 of these daisy-chained and some cheap pullies to cover a huge portion of my open 1200sqft basement without having a 30lb computer strapped to my back and all the potential hardware damage that will result from OP's setup.
I do not recommend Easycap's solely off the fact it is impossible to find a "real" one. Almost every one of them on amazon now are fake Easycap's. With them being fake half the time you could get one that does not work or that just does a horrible job and then randomly stops working.
While it may be a little bit more I highly recommend the GV-USB2 It is $40 which is about the pricerange for any legit capture card. Usually if they are under $40 you tend to get fake ones.
Here is some sample gameplay from my PS2 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ve-VOWIny8U
It is in a dark section of the game so you can see how darks handle. Do not judge me for my bad gameplay :)
Do you have Amazon Prime ? Primenow sells them. If you dont have Primenow, we can meet up downtown and you can buy me a coffee, and I'll order it for you.
Well in that case you might want to have a look at this cable on Amazon. The design is, as far as I can see, 100% identical to yours. You might want to have a lawyer look at that.
For what it's worth I have one of each and for me the Cablecreation one is currently proving more reliable than the Tether Tools one so if it's an imitation they haven't done a terrible job.
I had to change USB cables several times. I ended up using an amazon basics USB that works fine - the two others I had laying around did something similar to what you describe. While the ALO cable should be good, for some reason the Jotunheim seems picky about them. Here is the one that works for me, I don't know why it's any different than the other ones I tried but it is: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1511142281&sr=8-8&keywords=amazon+basics+usb
The black one is a barrel jack. It's used for power if not being powered from the USB port. The USB port works with any USB A to USB B cable, commonly found with printers or larger USB hard drives. A new one can be found here https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
Hey there! We recommend the official Oculus Link Cable for the optimal experience using Oculus Link, but it's not required. For a more affordable third-party cable, we have tested the Anker cable internally with good results. You can go here to find one on Amazon (US). Thanks!
From what I have heard and personally experienced, Anker cables are great and I've never had an issue with them.
Anker USB-A to USB-C
Anker USB-C to USB-C
(Canadian amazon links lol sry if you are American / any other country)
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor/dp/B01E9W8KYC I have this one, works great. Also isn't $80.
Yep, your kit has a USB-B port allowing you to track directly from the module to your laptop.
Right so what you need is a USB 2.0 A-male to B-male cable. It’s also known as the USB Printer cable.
This is a 6feet cable^. Should be more than enough.
There's an anker cable they recommend by name on their site. I got it on Amazon and it works great.
But honestly the small upgrade in visual fidelity isn't worth being tethered.
Anker USB C Cable, Powerline USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIPYPY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Oculus Link allows you to connect your Quest to your PC via any USB port. You don't need a USB-C or HDMI or DisplayPort or anything like that. Just buy a USB-C to USB 3.0 cable and that's literally all you need. Oculus itself recommends this third-party cable but just about any cable is an option. I've used a junk cable with a micro-USB to USB-C adapter and even that works.
Or just play through Virtual Desktop. You literally don't even need to be physically connected to your computer to play PCVR through your Quest. It sounds like you haven't done a lot of research if this information was unknown to you.
The flaws are it's on a cable and that can trip people up. That's not a metaphor: It can actually trip you. That's really about it.
If your wireless virtual desktop solution is set up in a perfect scenario, you'll have less latency than the Cable Route. But A) The Cable Route doesn't have much latency to begin with so outside of maybe some thing like Beat Saber it truly doesn't matter, and B) If you live in something like an apartment building or a dense neighbourhood, the perfect scenario just ain't happening.
You want the easiest route?
Grab your Quest 2. Grab this cable or something equivalent in the appropriate length, and install the Oculus program on your computer. Boot up the program, plug in the cable, and you're literally done.
Oculus Link does not require the Official Oculus Link cable - but Oculus Link does require a high-quality USB cable capable of supporting data and power.
For the best experience, we recommend USB 3.0 or greater. Internally, we've had success with the Anker cable, seen here (via Amazon.com).
I imagine Oculus will have recommendations on cables, they might even include longer cables with the standalone camera. A 10ft extension combined with the cameras cable should be way more than you need and that's only $6.50 on Amazon. A 2 pack of 6' cables (should be enough for most) is $10.
Yeap, so far you are correct. I swapped the old Anker USB cable to a new one with better specs and so far so good. Less wiggle on the cable connected to the car port. Thank you for your suggestions! I'll check out AAWireless next time. For reference, here's the cable I got, https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Dunno why you're getting downvoted bud, some people can be weirdly toxic here. Any USB 3.0 type C cable will do, even if it's USB A to USB C. Here's an Anker one for you to look at, you'll want the 10Ft one.
Just purchased this USB C to DisplayPort, Maxonar 8K 60Hz Type-C to DP Cable 6.6FT/2M(4K 60Hz 144Hz 120Hz 2K 240Hz) VESA Certified 32.4Gbps 1.4 HBR3 Alt Mode Video Adapter for M1 MacBook Pro Mac Mini, XPS 15 and More https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08B3XNZGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AE2EP6QGAGBCH1NWX1XV
You do have to be careful buying cables. Nintendo says that if you use a USB-C cable with a 56K OHM resistor that it would not harm the switch.
One on my wishlist on amazon is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9W8KYC/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&psc=1
Their own cable has the 56K resistor, so if you purchase a cable that specifically states the 56K, then you should be good!
I got this one Amazon.com: USB C to DisplayPort, Maxonar 8K 60Hz Type-C to DP Cable 6.6FT/2M(4K 60Hz 144Hz 120Hz 2K 240Hz) VESA Certified 32.4Gbps 1.4 HBR3 Alt Mode Video Adapter for M1 MacBook Pro Mac Mini, XPS 15 and More: Computers & Accessories
works fine, my aoc 1440p 27" has g-sync compatibility enabled (144hz)
I have the Oculus-suggested Anker Powerline cable (10ft) plus a CableCreation Active USB extension cable (16.4ft). Both cables are fairly thick compared to what you'd get with the official USB-C cable, but I get an extra 10ft and a lot of extra cash in my pocket. You could obviously just go for the Anker cable by itself if you didn't need all the extra length... either way, you can't go wrong for the price.
This works perfectly: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't even use mine anymore though because Virtual Desktop works so well (haven't tried Airlink yet)
NZXT Internal USB Hub 3 - AC-IUSBH-M3-4 Internal USB 2.0 Ports - 3M Dual Lock Tapes - Magnetic Body - Plug and Play https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08L8VJS3Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DPM2WKH4HXC5Q0AG6XEV
Hey there! While we do recommend the Oculus Link Cable for the optimal experience with Oculus Link, it is not required. Results can vary with third-party cables, but we have tested the Anker cable internally with good results. You can go here to find one on Amazon (US). Thanks!
I was able to solve my issue after extensive research. It appears there is a disagreement between this motherboard and the commander pro. One solution I found (and the only one I have found) is to purchase an internal USB hub. Plug the USB hub into the MoBo and then the Commander Pro into the hub. Worked fine after that. Here's the one I got for around $23:
Think that's the old model of the usb hub, the new one has a purple main connection and uses sata power connector.
The led on the hub should be lit up, and plug the x53 usb into the connector next to the white one.
If it was a the standard USB B to USB A cable, which most MIDI controllers have, it would have looked like this. Easy and cheap to replace. Your local WalMart or equivalent store should have them.
Np, here the link for the cable that I use, it works really well. Might want to get a bigger size though, I recommend 10 feet.
Anker USB C Cable, Powerline USB 3.0 to USB C Charger Cable (6ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, Oculus Quest, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Hqk.FbTRDACHT
I'm missing something.
If you have a very high refresh dp 1.4 monitor, your best bet would likely be to try a dp 1.4 USB cable, something like: https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Maxonar-Certified-32-4Gbps-Adapter/dp/B08B3XNZGS/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=usb+c+displayport+1.4&qid=1610385582&sr=8-3
I don't own the cable I linked, it's simply representative of what I would try if I wanted to drive very high frame rate to a high res monitor.
I'm using a Philips 499P9H (also Ultrawide; 5120x1440 resolution) with a M1 Mac mini.
My Mac mini M1 wouldn’t work via HDMI or USB-C (both connection worked fine on my work machine Windows Notebook with Intel Onboard Graphics - so the cables are capable to display this resolution).
I had to order an USB-C to Displayport Cable, and with this, no problems at all.
I’m now using this cable: https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Maxonar-Certified-32-4Gbps-Adapter/dp/B08B3XNZGS
I had the same confusion when building mine. As stated, the LED connector on the pump cable is just to connect other RGB devices to the pump to power them, but you can just leave it unplugged otherwise. The pump head will receive addressable RGB power with the other cables connected.
As for needing other USB headers, I bought an NZXT Internal USB Hub which splits one USB 2 header into 3. I bought this one, but they also sell a newer version found here which is probably easier to find. One uses molex for power and the other uses SATA, and doesn't have the extra USB-A ports, which I don't think are needed inside a case.
The joys of building ITX!
Yeah, I have used an active extension and a usb 3 cable before to get that same length you want. It was fine. The tradeoff was that I was testing it out in my room in about a 6x7' area so I had a zillion feet of cable on the ground. I use Virtual Desktop for my PCVR streaming so while I can't say for sure there would never be an issue with that setup, it seemed fine in the time I was trying it out and I got the same speed in the cable test that I did with just the USB 3 cable, think it was 2.3gbps.
This is the active extension cable I have:
No idea about options that are 3 meters since my cables are the reverse lengths that you are looking at, with my USB 3.0 cable being the 3 meter one. My cable is the Anker Powerline one that Oculus has given the seal of approval to.
I personally use VD 95% of the time, but every once in a while you may come across games that just don't have compatibility with VD and now with the v23 Link update the image quality can beat out VD if you have a beefy graphics card. For seated or standing games with no roomscale I think the wire tradeoff isn't the end of the world, like with Moss or Hellblade. But I also don't think the $90 official cable is worth that price if it isn't your primary source, I just use the $12 Anker cable for my purposes and it works fine.
You need a USB A-B cable to connect to the MK3S, like https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
of a decent length.
The display is useless if you are not near the printer/pi, use you mobile or (desk|lap)top.
The camera has narrow FoV. If you want to see the whole bed get a wide angle version. And 50cm cable might be just enough depending on how you want to position.
If you have a 5GHz WiFi router in the same room (or a network inside your house using switchs and routers) and you have your computer connected to it by gigabit ethernet, you can use Virtual Desktop. Be aware that there will be some latency, especially if your room/router has a lot of interference.
If that is not an option for you, you will have to use an active cable/extension like this one (it's unpowered so you may get some issues with the battery).
Literally any USB-C <-> USB-A 3.0 Cable will work. You might even have one around your house already that will do the trick.
Here is the one I use It's $20 and works fine for my Quest 2, but Facebook says on their own website it should work for the Quest 1 as well.
I believe they are all the same capture card but just come with different (and unnecessary) accessories or software. Usually people just get it off Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y
No. You need an RCA Cable and a USB cable that has a USB2 cable that has a Type B end. (like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK). You need the square ending usb 2. Anyways I use amazon basics usb cables on mine and they're great.
Not 100% sure what your situation is. You can use the cable that came with your phone or you can buy a new USB type C cable. I'd recommend getting a new one.
A cable doesn't come with this charger. I'm not really aware of many chargers (either car or AC) that do come with cables, but I wouldn't use them anyway (they're often garbage). If you need a recommendation, I've been using these pretty much exclusively for a little over a year: Amazon Link
I had a similar problem. Furthermore in my case it would take me up to 2 hours to get serato to connect to my controller. I got an Amazon basic cable and it works wonderfully. Here is a link to the one I got.
No idea about Amazon.
You may need some USB extensions, depending on how you plan to run stuff, these are known to work:
The V20 supports the Qualcomm Quick Charge 3.0 standard, so any charger that meets that will charge your phone as fast as possible.
I am not sure how Amazon UK selection compares with Amazon US, but a quick search for "Quick Charge 3.0 charger" brings up several good options. The Aukey and Anker brands are reliable and priced fairly.
As for cables, Anker Powerline and Powerline+ cables are reviewed well, and have served me well.
A few other things:
As others have mentioned, the Odyssey's tracking relies on the room having enough light for the cameras to see.
While the Vive works great in total darkness, you have to remember to turn on the lights at night to make the Odyssey work.
And one other thing I should mention is that the cable is a bit short on the Odyssey, I had to buy some extension cables from Amazon to be comfortable I wouldn't accidentally yank out or break the connectors.
I went with these:
Also perfect: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1541133504&sr=8-13&keywords=amazon+basics+usb+cable
Awesome, thanks for the 411!
Edit: any others from say Amazon or Best Buy? I'm not required to get one at Target. Perhaps this one?
This cable is the one that I have seen everybody else state works
I haven't used this one but it was reported working with Oculus Link so I assume it would work with the Rift S.
This is a good one, it is even the one that Oculus recommends
It's $18 for a 10 foot cable
People have used this to extend the above cable even further than 10 feet, need an active extender, which is what this extender cable has on it, to prevent any kind of loss.
The oculus link cable is 15 feet, uses fiber optics, is much lighter than other brands of USB cables, it made from higher quality materials to maximize it's throughput.
The official Oculus link cable is great but its also super overpriced. I have been using this Anker cable for months...
But you will also need one of these...
Never used this myself, but heard good things about it.
It doesn't do RF, but the original NES had the yellow and white composite video jacks built in.
If you can only use RF, an old VCR can convert RF to composite video.
I use this one daily, and no cable will break anything.
Oculus recommended cable on Amazon for same price.
Oculus links for North America | Canada | UK | Japan | Australia | Germany
Was the cable rated at 5Gbps or better? If not you will likely want to buy one off of Amazon that specifically list the specs. There are many variations on USB and just because it has a C connector does not mean it is the right spec. Below is the one Oculus recommends if you do not go with their branded cable.
Just get a usb a to usb C cable instead, and avoid the adapter all together. The anker powerline is a good option (get the 6ft version if you're interested, it's only $1 more): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=twister_B07BS292KR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Do you know if Corsair has one because I don't know if NZXT is going to interfere with any iCUE software.
If not, is this what you got: https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Internal-USB-Hub-AC-IUSBH-M3-4/dp/B08L8VJS3Z
This cable should do it. It is DP1.4 to USB-C with a support of Thunderbolt 4...the most important piece is the HBR3 which is the speed you need...
get one of these you need to plug it in the side slot https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A and then into the usb in front of the ps2
I'll solve your problem. Order and install this NZXT powered USB hub from Amazon, connect it to your PSU and plug your cappellix LCD usb headers into it. https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Internal-USB-Hub-AC-IUSBH-M3-4/dp/B08L8VJS3Z/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=VTUKNRO9TCUM&keywords=nzxt+internal+usb+hub+gen+3&qid=1662316018&s=electronics&sprefix=nzxt+us%2Celectronics%2C56&sr=1-3
Due to the length, youll more than likley require an active USB extension cable. (Normally anything over 5 meters would require this)
Something like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=active+usb+extension+cable&qid=1661522989&sprefix=active+usb+%2Caps%2C62&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGl...
They have 2 seperate controllers. One for the fans and one for the strimers. Once you plug everything in, download L-connect 3 and they will sync together. If you don't have enough USB 2.0, NZXT Hub 3 gives you 5 additional ones. You can buy it from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Internal-USB-Hub-AC-IUSBH-M3-4/dp/B08L8VJS3Z/ref=sr\_1\_2?keywords=nzxt+usb+2.0+hub&qid=1661492731&sr=8-2
While I haven't used my Quest 2 for Warthunder, I can answer some of these. Keyboard and mouse, yes. Difficult to set up, no not really and it would be worth it if you like the idea of being able to actually look around instead of holding C every time. Graphics are going to be lacking, mainly because of the fresnel lenses that are used in the headset creating "God Rings" and partially blurring the pixels. Connecting to the PC is uh... Not fun. You'll need a link cable that can run from $20-$80, and then an app on Steam called "Virtual Desktop," and that makes it not matter if you use the Steam client or Gaijin's because it streams your entire desktop to the headset. Here's the cable I got, it's nice because the velcro strip it comes with is just the right size to hold the cable to the headstrap so it doesn't come unplugged. If you encounter sound issues, unplug the headset and plug it back in, then reconnect to Virtual Desktop. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Forget what anyone else says, you need to get a USB-C to DisplayPort adapter (I got this one from Amazon), and plug it into the left side USB-C port (the one next to the power plug).
This port connects directly to the RTX 3060 GPU, giving you the best graphics performance. You should get a few extra FPS compared to connecting to an HDMI cable or even on the laptop's screen.
the official one is gud but it may be a bit expensive for what it is, so you could try one like this amazon tho i dont know how gud it is cuz i got the official one
Hello there, thats a good question!
It is possible to use Link with a third party USB-C cable, but cables can vary in terms of speed and performance. So, if you choose to use a third party cable, make sure it has a transfer speed of at least 5 Gbps.
Another important factor of the cable is the length. To not get too limited in movement, we recommend a cable of at least 10ft.
We have tested the Anker cable internally with good results. Here you can find the cable in question
Have fun exploring VR ☺️
If you still have issues you may want to try an internal USB hub. I have ML120 elite fans with the Corsair LCD screen, and ended up with issues because too much amp usage.
Bought this: NZXT Internal USB Hub 3 -... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08L8VJS3Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
No more issues.
This one. https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Concentrador-USB-interno-AC-IUSBH-M3-4/dp/B08L8VJS3Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=323ALHGF3Q10Y&keywords=nzxt+usb&qid=1658588509&sprefix=nzxt+usb%2Caps%2C263&sr=8-3
It’s more a hub than a splitter. It gives you extra usb connectors
The OWC docks might, they can do 2 [email protected] or an [email protected] so I think that might be enough bandwidth, and then like a USB C to DisplayPort wire.
Internal USB 2.0 HUB
Fan Splitter, you technically can use a totally separate hub/controller but it may be more expensive. Keep in mind that simple splitters like this do not have individual fan control. The fans would be controlled as a group.
For fans a standard Y splitter is what you want, just don't pick the bottom of the barrel price ones and you're good to go.
For usb: https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Internal-USB-Hub-AC-IUSBH-M3-4/dp/B08L8VJS3Z
I use the older version of this hub - https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Internal-USB-Hub-AC-IUSBH-M3-4/dp/B08L8VJS3Z/ which has been fine.
I went through so many cables, many that were intermittent out of the box until I read that Android auto requires the higher transfer rate spec cables. I bought an Android auto recommended cable and it's been working for a couple of months now without a single drop. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01A6F3WHG
If your motherboard only has 1 usb 2.0 header nzxt makes a usb header hub I'll link below. 1 usb2.0 header can also typically be split between 2 devices with a y cable which I believe came with one of my corsair products either the aio or the comander core.
I just found a solution! I plugged all my corsair stuff into the NZXT internal USB hub 3 and it all started working correctly. It was something wrong with the mobo compatibility.
It’s usually an internal USB issue. I bought this and never looked back.
NZXT internal usb hub
I'm using a generic powered USB 3.0 hub from Amazon with a wheel, pedals, keyboard and headphones connected to my PC with this 16ft active extension and have no issues with any hardware.
I have the LG 38WN95C-W
MacBook Pro M1 (Work) and M1 Pro (Personal) connected via TB3 cable. Mac Mini (Intel 2018) via DisplayPort.
Here’s the product purchased:
Also have their TB4 cable. No issues. Much better than what LG provided.
NZXT usb hub. NZXT Internal USB Hub 3 - AC-IUSBH-M3-4 Internal USB 2.0 Ports - 3M Dual Lock Tapes - Magnetic Body - Plug and Play https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08L8VJS3Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_2BEC3SJHHAADM4WQ804N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
(This is the Canadian Amazon link, but you can find it I am sure.)
I have this hub and highly recommend it:
As for the fans, yes they are individually addressable. If you were having issues, the unihub controller might need a firmware update. You can find it on the Lian li sl120 page
It’s a USB Type B connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NXNETSBSKWFQ75SRFF3W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I had the exact issue you mentioned and replaced my cable with a high data transfer cable and never had a problem again
Anker USB C Cable, Powerline USB 3.0 to USB C Charger Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, Oculus Quest, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10 (Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_M0SA59PFQR304TC1ATP1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Idk if you can trust, but that's simply too much for a cable. I use a standard usb-c 3.0 cable from amazon with no issues.
I use this. It comes from Japan but doesn't really require much if any Japanese language knowledge to set up from what I recall at least. I don't know if there are really any better capture cards available for older consoles at this point since most of them are HDMI I believe.
I think it has an optical cable internally with conversion electronics at each end. You won't necessarily get faster data rates, but the latency is a lot lower. I have this cable and get a 3gb connection and only 2gb on the official one.
Anker USB C Cable, Powerline USB... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MZIPYPY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you're uncertain, this is the one I use. Not had any issues
Anker USB C Cable, Powerline USB 3.0 to USB C Charger Cable (10ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, Oculus Quest, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10 and More https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MZIPYPY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_gl_i_RSP3EW7ZRYPCWK033ZEF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Nope, unfortunately! That uses an external USB header like the one you find on the outside of your computer. That's for plugging in stuff like peripherals, USB drives, etc.
If you're looking for a USB hub that uses internal USB headers though, there are a few. One in particular is this one from NZXT: https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Internal-USB-Hub-AC-IUSBH-M3-4/dp/B08L8VJS3Z
The difference is that the NZXT one uses internal USB headers which plug directly into your motherboard, and anything that plugs into a USB header on your motherboard can be plugged into this hub too. This includes stuff like AIOs, fan controllers, and anything else that has a USB 2.0 interface.
Don't buy the overpriced link cable you can get an equal or greater quality one on amazon for 1/3 the price. I use this. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Also not the best timing to buy a Quest 2 considering a new headset is reportedly coming out in a few months.
You need a cable capable of USB 3.0 or higher speeds. Quest 2 can use USB 2 at reduced quality, but I believe the Quest 1 still requires a high speed cable.
The charging cable included is only rated at USB 2.0, as are most USB-C charging cables.
The cheapest solutions are to either buy an Anker cable, or to purchase and use Virtual Desktop.
FYI: AirLink requires a 5GHz Wifi Network and is an experimental feature — You must enable it in both Quest settings and the Oculus desktop app settings, and it'll disable itself on the desktop every 24 hours or so (last I checked).
This one I believe. I thought he just meant what kind of cable I was using, that’s my fault.
I use the Anker cable that oculus actually recommended before they brought out their own and it's great.
I have this exact setup. This is the end product.
I'd recommend getting the USB header splitter from NZXT
Your mobo likely only has 2 usb 2.0 headers, plug the commander core that comes with your cooler (if you've bought corsair) into its own header, and then plug all other usb devices into the NZXT splitter.
Just get the NZXT usb hub that adds 3 more usb headers.
NZXT Internal USB Hub 3 - AC-IUSBH-M3-4 Internal USB 2.0 Ports - 3M Dual Lock Tapes - Magnetic Body - Plug and Play https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L8VJS3Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DS6HAGRP8ZWXCH2NNHBM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If this generation of pedals has that connector then it also has a USB B connector. The round connector is used for connection to the FANATEC wheel base. The square connector with corners cut off is for connecting to USB. One OR the other can be connected. The generic Fanatec drivers support this old pedal set. I am not sure about generic windows drivers.
I am still using a set like this. Great pedals if they work.
Amazon Basics USB 2.0 Printer Cable