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If you're talking about this light then I suspect your light is way too close, and it's yellowing because of light stress. You should probably back it away ASAP (maybe to 20"). It's early enough that those leaves probably aren't too damaged. Existing damage probably won't heal, but new growth should look better.
Also, what light schedule? Because if you're using 18/6 - 24/0 you're already giving the plant 1.5-2 times as much light intensity per day (DLI) as photos in flower would get, so keep that in mind when reading the manufacturer's guidelines for flowering distances.
Idk where you are buying from but I just found that light for $20 cheaper. With a $10 off coupon.
Now idk if that is my amazon business amount discount making it that cheap. But I personally think a 200w light would be better. It's not a must, but 100w per plant I feel is the minimum for best results.
I took a day or two deciding what light to get. I compared a bunch, looked at the ppfd, u/mol, recommended height and did research on full spectrum vs blurple.
You want the light you purchase to be exactly what you need for best results for a 32x32x64. Plus you need to think about, the extras you will have hanging above the light and the expected height of the strain you're growing. Get familiar with low stress training. That will save you a good bit of space.
Oh and just because a manufacturer says you can hang a light 12in above the plants on full power in flower. Does not mean you should. I actually noticed a bit better growth hanging just a bit above the recommended.
Eh I can tell from the growth the buds aren't going to be very dense.
As the plant grows and flowers, light requirements increase.
It's already struggling is all.
Not sure if the smells going to be that different tbh idk on that.
Limited-time deal: Bloom Plus LED Grow Light BP 1500W Dimmable Full Spectrum Sunlike Grow Lights with 578pcs Samsung Diodes(Includes IR) for Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XYLHRJ/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_dl_TQAA9A1JQAHRYRD95M26?psc=1
Best bang for the buck on a budget right now. I have the BP2500. It's awesome.
You would have to get off Amazon. You can get a solid setup for $300.
This is the light is use and have had success with. It is on sale too. Note that there are better options but this will still give you solid results.
Bloom Plus LED Grow Light BP1500 Dimmable Full Spectrum Plant Grow Lights High-Efficiency Growing Lights with 587pcs Samsung Diodes(Includes IR) Grow Lamps for Indoor Plants Greenhouse Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XYLHRJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6HTBV6S6TBZZD0EXZN5E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I ended up with 3 plants that were severely undersized and over larfed. I was extremely disappointed and impatient. I just kept throwing good money after bad. The minimum that I would try to start and finish with (buds require light, lots of light) is something like this BP1500 Dimmable Full Spectrum Plant Grow Lights High-Efficiency Growing Lights with 587pcs Samsung Diodes(Includes IR) Grow Lamps for Indoor Plants Greenhouse Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XYLHRJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YM456404VREX6AVMY5BF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Look at the PPFD and compare it to your future light.
Bloom Plus LED Grow Light BP1500 Dimmable Full Spectrum Plant Grow Lights High-Efficiency Growing Lights with 587pcs Samsung Diodes(Includes IR) Grow Lamps for Indoor Plants Greenhouse Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XYLHRJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R41ZW5SZD5DEQAV8GRTE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You should probably take the cuttings and put them somewhere else before they're too tangled up to remove and you have a bunch of plants competing for space.
Also, plants indoors, especially if they are getting little to no direct sunlight, will need much less water than outside. Only water once the top 2 inches of soil are bone dry in a pot like that. I have an indoor dragon fruit that's doing well, and I use a decently strong grow light for 11 hours a day because there is no direct sunlight where it is at.
With regards to disease, I don't know much, but if you look up "dragon fruit disease cooperative extension" or similar search terms you should find a bunch of PDFs with useful info. I prefer information from university cooperative extensions because it is usually well tested scientifically and in industry. Also, it may be a good idea to cut off diseased areas if they look pretty bad using bleach sanitized tools; make sure to sanitize them shorty before using them.
Good luck!
You may want to consider a grow light and some nutrients if all of your limes are falling off that early. Most of the flowers won't develop into full-sized fruits, but at least some of them should be bigger than your photo. This is what I bought for my Meyer lemon that's < 2 years old and it's been growing well indoors.
This could be a light problem. Citrus need a lot of light and they often react strongly to changes in the amount of light received. I use this grow light on a 9 hour per day timer and my Meyer lemon tree has been continuing to grow and bloom indoors.
It could also be a watering problem. What works best as opposed to a schedule is regularly checking the soil to see if it is dry. The time it takes for the soil to dry out is often a lot longer indoors for a variety of reasons. Watering once the top inch or two of soil is completely dry has worked well for me.
I also wouldn't worry about humidity too much; the place I know with the largest, healthiest citrus trees is in Tempe AZ, and it's dry as a bone.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B082XYLHRJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_V9ZSFbEH1AGZ1?psc=1 this one is a little more but I ran 2 of them and they are very nice lights!
Here's a picture of my indoor setup. The light I have is this one.
You're most likely going to have to invest in a relatively powerful light; the one I have is an LED that runs at about 150W and the growth isn't leggy. Some varieties I've seen have thin growth, but it looks like your plant is stretching itself thin looking for a light source. Generally, thin, light green growth accompanied by a frenzy of air roots means the plant is looking to climb due to low light.
If you zoom in on my picture you'll be able to see about halfway down the trellis that the plants get very thin. This was from when they were stuck in the garage for a couple weeks while I was getting the trellis ready. Even after setting things up indoors I could see a decent amount of variation in the thickness of the stems between plants that were 1.5-2.5 feet below the light.
For some more info:
I am growing the yellow, thorned variety of dragon fruit from Ecuador.
I only water once the top two-three inches of soil are dry, which in that size pot with low light at the soil level is VERY infrequently.
I use yellow sticky traps and I have a layer of vermiculite at the top of the soil to discourage fungus gnats. Sand would probably work better because it is heavier and will not mix/move around as much during waterings.
Right now there is still fertilizer left in the potting mix so I do not fertilize. This channel has lots of good info on general dragon fruit care, etc. so if you are looking for a fertilizing schedule and what to use start here.
I do nothing with regards to temperature and humidity apart from the keep the inside of my house warm. The temperature in that area varies from low 70s to at its absolute highest maybe 82 degrees F. My plant is next to a heating vent, which is not a good idea due to temperature fluctuations and extremely low humidity, but I haven't noticed any problems yet. Buying a thermometer/hygrometer is a good idea to check the temperature and humidity of your plant's location.
The reason my plants have gotten so close to the light is because I am lazy and have yet to cut off the tips to encourage branching. Definitely never have plants that close to a light running that hot and bright.
Hope this is helpful, good luck with your dragon fruit!