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Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear?
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Assuming it is 3D like it appears, consider splitting it in half, and printing both top and bottom with the flat side on the bed. Next, glue the two parts together carefully (see below).
I think the result will work out perfect.
I use the PrusaSlicer which allows you to select a layer and than discard everything above or below to get the two parts.
To glue the two parts together, try;
I like this one, no melted plastic ever….
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PQ7KHEDATG2Q5E5QXMGX
Also this glue is very thick and doesn’t set instantly, so I think it’s easier to use that way and then you can also use the spray to make it harden instantly
It usually comes in a spray bottle, and is a chemical similar to acetone that makes CA glue (super glue) harden near-instantly. It's incredible. Without it you have to sometimes awkwardly hold the magnet or whatever in place for up to 15 minutes, not knowing if the glue is actually cured. With the accelerant you can put the magnet down, spray a bit, and watch it go from clear to translucent right away. I linked my favorite kind below.
The spray is generally non-hazardous toward plastic, but it's kind of a mess when you spritz it, so I try to get a little bit near the glue, which will solidify when the accelerant gets near.
if its rubber you could try contact cement. Not sure how well that would hold though. If you have problems getting superglue to stick get some activator. Bob Smith Industries being the bees knees of CA glue! That link is for the glue and activator.
I like this stuff…it’s much thicker then normal and it doesn’t set instantly so I think it’s a lot easier to work with, and then the spray makes it harden instantly which is also useful
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5S85H5KNJZT514VWNJB9
Agree with others just tie them to rocks or super glue. This glue is like magic: Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Totally safe to use in the tank. You don’t even have to wash off plant/rock before you put it in
Super glue and accelerator will make a faster bond than cement. Apply one drop of the glue, unscrew the cap of the accelerator, hold the pieces together with one hand, take the nozzle top off the accelerator and touch the end of the hose that goes down into the bottle to the glue bond. You’ll instantly bond and harden the glue when the drop of this chemical meets the superglue and as long as you weren’t messy it’s a clear bond without cloudiness.
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9H9Z65K66AAC12HE1KSP
RE assembling, the older minis are SO MUCH BETTER to put together (mostly) than the new sculpts, though the lack of clear instructions often leaves you wondering 'wait is this a rocket pack or a sensor pod' and the fact that they sometimes bundle you with extra bits and sometimes just bundle you with the wrong bits makes building them even more !FUN!
To get a better glue bond, you can find purpose made pewter modeling glue. If you use traditional glues try finding a quick dry glue accelerant. My friend has some I use sometimes on my IWM minis. It really works, though you still may want to give it 24hrs to cure. Also I would try not to breath it in. IDK whats in that stuff, but it smells like something you probably dont want inside you. Im not a Dr, or your mom, though, so you live your truth. Even with the accelerator I've noticed sometimes IWM pewter minis just fall apart. Its frustrating. I have been completely unable to assemble my vulture mk1 because if the legs go on right then the arms pop off, or if the arms feel like theyre on good I cant get the legs to hold in place. Its a nightmare.
I use this stuff to bond my large parts together, for example for cosplay parts. Strong and drys almost instantly with the accelerator spray. I used to fixed damaged or failed prints.
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear
I bought this pack probably 3 years ago and have since then have just been refilling the small pump/spray bottle from a bigger "refill" bottle that they sell. Zero complaints.
I like this one from bob smith…it’s much thicker then normal super glue and also dries much slower, so I think it’s easier to use since the glue stays where you put it and you have a few seconds to adjust position before the glue sets….and then you can use the included spray to make it set instantly once everything is all in position….
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YX2D70NGMX27W52EM5ZY
I assume this suggestion is to split the helmet into a "right" and "left", and print it on the side.
You might be able to avoid supports!
Joining the two sections is not hard. Consider using the following;
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-157H-Insta-Set/dp/B0166FFCHS/
The link below works for me. You put a little on the seam, position the part exactly as you want, and spritz the accelerant on to the seam. As far as I can tell, the joint is stronger than the material.
Awesome. I'm going to try this one off amazon. a bunch of reviewers said it was good for models
Absolutely. The only down side to the mini is volume size. In fact, the mini has some features that would be very cool on the larger MK3.
Once you learn how to bond PLA prints instantly, and stronger than if they were a single part, you don't worry as much over getting a bigger volume printer right away.
Tips for assembling and glueing?
I just bought my first Warhammer minis - the Indomitus box. I've painted a lot of 3D printed stuff, so I'm not really worried about the painting. I am worried about the assembly, though. I'm clumsy and I can't use superglue without attaching myself to something.
Do you have any tips for assembling all of these things?
I use an accelerator on my superglue to make it cure instantly. I usually use this Bob Smith stuff. Is that going to be ok to use on the GW models?
I have some nice snips, small files, and other similar equipment for my printed stuff so I think I have the other tools covered. Any other tips or links to relevant YouTube vids would be great. thanks.
I use super glue - one on the runnier side that doesn't set too quickly. I am horrible at aligning things and need time to make adjustments. When I do get things lined up I use an accelerator spray to harden the glue instantly. Then I try and get my fingers off of whatever they are accidentally glued to. :) I am horrible with glue.
Hey hey!!! I know your struggles, so not many students at my university knew this, but it's a quick way to glue stuff. Buy any cynocralyte glue, good one though like insta cure. Then buy an accelerator preferably one that sets clear. You only need a little bit of glue then as a drop of accelerator. Usually I would have small dab a glue and a small plastic I could put a small amount on bass wood the place and add drop of accelerator. Here is link to some
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_28BGDb1PTXAZ0
I believe most hobby shops will carry it as it's used in model making
Try some of the good stuff and you'll never go back to the crap brands.
EX: BSI Maxi-Cure
I almost always use up the entire bottle before it dries. It survives for months and hundreds of openings. It dries much slower than normal super glue, which is why it comes with a bottle of activator (which is amazing). It's also thicker, so less dripping/running.
If you ever need to get rid of super glue, acetone (aka nail polish remover) works wonders.
I prefer super glue with an activator these days, I use this stuff. Sets in a couple of seconds and you can use it on places you won't be able to get UV light to cure the resin.
Here's the one I was introduced to. Naturally, it worked well, so I have no reason to shop around brands. I'm sure any other brand would work as well, but we are creatures of habit.
Note: it works with any superglue that is CYANOACRYLATE and you don't need that brand.
Way better, SUPER GLUE ACCELERATOR!!! It’s a game changer,
I use Bob Smith Industries CA glue for anything not plastic to plastic. I use Tamiya Extra Thin for plastic to plastic.
Using a wood burning tool to "weld" PLA parts is most likely a poor approach.
Consider using the following;
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_sGv4FbX0NZYMF
To save your friend a ton of trouble using "normal" glues, can I recommend;
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-157H-Insta-Set/dp/B0166FFCHS/
When using this stuff, remember ... less is more.
Try this. I swear you will never go back to any glue or epoxy :-).
I use Bob Smith;
Just use the two part stuff listed below. Less is more, make sure the alignment is perfect before spritz.
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-157H-Insta-Set/dp/B0166FFCHS/
It’s like this stuff…thick ca glue and an activator spray….
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5MWN98AA73MDQX73A1XD
No you want the maxi cure….it’s thick like maple syrup and sets in like 15-20 seconds… you can get it by itself or with a spray, the spray makes it harden instantly…
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0B2JY2NFYNV5Q2F5A6RA
Bob Smith Industries Maxi-Cure Extra Thick, 2 oz., Blue (BSI-113) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3JCCTY6EGX6SAR9BZDMB
It's just a liquid that makes CA glue dry on contact. I use this brand (the accelerator is the brown bottle): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_MT0E7VZSXPY1NAZ8DTQF
But I recommend using something like this for the accelerator instead of the spray. It's a lot more accurate and less wasteful: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07M5NL9LL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_TZRZNX0DYHNZ9KJBH2D4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Next, the glue part;
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-157H-Insta-Set/dp/B0166FFCHS/
Next, the glue part;
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-157H-Insta-Set/dp/B0166FFCHS/
Can concur. Had to glue one of the clips for my son's Megatron and thankfully with the glue that I use, it's held together strong as hell.
This stuff will weld the two pieces together such that the weld is stronger than the material :-).
Just remember, less is more.
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/
This is probably what glacier was referring to. Its thick so it will fill in the crack.
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D062XD8GVQHXNQ4J2DQS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set… | - | - | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
I think this is what you are looking for:
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1C1VHPMFJGZZG0T7E89A
This is the best glue to use - I keep CA glue and the insta-set spray to fix stuff all the time.
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-157H-Insta-Set/dp/B0166FFCHS
Until you get a replacement part, you might try;
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-157H-Insta-Set/dp/B0166FFCHS/
Align the crack and hold in place, run a bead of this stuff down the back side, and spray it with the accelerant.
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined),Clear https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_KQTA7P1Z8B2D1W9HHK48?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This...
Try this stuff; works wonders!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0166FFCHS/
Pro Tip; less is more :-).
It’s this
This stuff will WELD any part stronger than the original!
I would reply on the following type of adhesive. I find it makes a seal that is just as strong as the plastic.
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-157H-Insta-Set/dp/B0166FFCHS/
No matter how good the press fit is, the magnet eventually comes loose.
I solved it with a bit of Bob's;
You can make scribing jigs with styrene. Or, since you're using dymo tape, you could make the your scribe on one side. Then measure out that pattern and place down your dymo tape on the mirrored side. Measure again before scribing the mirrored to make sure it's just right. If you mess up just lay down some CA glue and accelerator (way faster than waiting for putty to dry). Sand it down flush and scribe again. May look messy after several attempts but as long as it's sanded flush you wont be able to tell after a pain job.
Edit: Looking at the picture further, you could scribe one side then at that angle in the middle, run a piece of dymo tape horizontally. That way you know on the mirrored side that the angle has to be right there. If you were to run that piece of tape right now you'd see that the right side angles slightly higher. Don't be afraid of slapping down several pieces of tape at once. They can even be overlapping whether they are there as a stop guide or the exact pattern you are scribing. Hope that helps.
bob smith ca with activator. Will bond harder then the pla layers.
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-157H-Insta-Set/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=bob+smith+ca&qid=1560439088&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
I agree I wasn’t to impressed with that orange that was shipped with the machine the quality of the material was just bad and never printed well. Oddly enough that seems to be the popular color when I do token gifts for the different holidays like Easter and such. I should order a wider range of colors as I always get asked if you have x color and I don’t.
As for storage I just went into Walmart and bought a simple food vacuum sealer and will just do a run when I have multiple spools open. I never thought of a ziplock bag I would assume if you could get it airtight it should work but even short term I would think it would work. Those storage bins I agree takes up way to much room so I never thought of them.
Now air quality has always been a question many ask and as far as PLA the general consensus is that it’s safe and should be non toxic. Now ABS that is a different thing that is toxic and depending on the brand just smells awful so that is something you need to vent the room. Some people will install air filters on their enclosures when they print that stuff. As far as all the other materials types I am not sure. I got a spool of carbon fiber and PETG but have yet to print with it. The wood pla I did print with had a little smell to it but I think was more from the sawdust than anything else. This glow in the dark dark material I’m trying out this week seems fine as well as far as I can tell. Guess it all depends on what chemical they use to make this stuff.
Let’s see for materials I got right now I have a roll of glow in the dark, carbon fiber, wood pla, pc-max white , black petg, and for pla I got black (multiple), white (multiple), red, blue, silver, gold, transparent neon yellow, and then a couple spools of abs I got free that will most likely never be used. Well I got that orange to but I basically don’t talk about it as I just hate the quality it prints at so it’s most likely just going to be be tossed at some point.
As far as what I print it’s basically what ever I find that I think would be fun to print with. Sort of similar with my color choices. I try and do something fun for the holidays as token gifts and they generally are a hit. Once I get enough time to learn fusion360 I do plan to create my own models just never feels like I got the time to.
So figured I list some things I bought/printed to use with my printer.
Thingiverse.com/thing:647425 - this is a set of stackable storage bins. I scaled them up going almost the full build plate on the length and width and just upped the height a little. I found these useful for multiple part prints as I can throw the pieces in them and keep them all in one place.
Flesh cutters - this it just handy if you need to trim a brim off a print
Hobby knife - this is a similar purpose as the flesh cutters just for when I need to trim something off a model
Needle nose pliers - just overall handy to have on hand
Dremel - this isn’t used much but I found it handy a couple times if I need to sand/cut a large piece off a print.
Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Glue. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf - this is just awesome to have when you want to glue parts together. It sets in seconds and it’s a strong bond.
91% isopropyl alcohol - this is handy for wiping off your bed before a print or just when ever you are having surface problems. I was using cotton swabs like you would use to remove makeup but lately I been using microfiber cloths and they work just as good.
Stainless steel ruler - I picked up a 12” one that has mm on it and just handy to have
Blue painters tape - this has come in handy for the times when prints don’t want to stick and for when I paint the prints
Adjustable wrench - this is great when you need to change nozzles on the printer as you can use it to hold the heat sink
Socket set - this is also for changing the nozzle just easier to prevent yourself from being burned just don’t over tighten the nozzle
Digital caliper - if you are going to make your own models this is just a must.
Small file - I bought a set of small files so I can sand off burs or other defects on overhangs and bridges. This is the set I bought but just what I thought would work. - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRCZKIX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Head lamp and small flashlight - I don’t use these very often but I sometimes use the flashlight for seeing the first layer better and the head lamp is just handy when working on the printer so you have that extra light but not having to hold a flashlight.
Can of compressed air - just handy for removing dust or other material from the fans
As for painting I bought a airbrush and such I don’t paint very often but maybe more in the future so I just have some basic stuff you buy with that. Sand paper in different grits, small paint brushes, paints, primer and so forth.
Oh and never use acetone on your print bed it just dissolves the bed surface they use with there printer and destroys it.
For oil I just been using a drop every now and then of some all purpose machine oil that I bought for the sowing machine and it’s worked fine. Little goes a long ways just cover your build plate before applying to keep any from dripping down. As for grease I don’t know I never used any and not sure what to suggest.
But that’s basically what I got around my printer outside of the set of tools that came with the printer. It’s all stuff that at one point in time I found useful. Well that and a small trash can for all the scrap material from prints. At some point I want to design my own desktop organizer I know people got designs for them but I just want something personal.
I do a lot of 3d printing and this is the only glue I will ever use. Perfect with plastic
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Do yourself a favor and check into different brands of glue: Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e4nIDb7KDMA0T
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