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Thanks for the info! I figured that was the case, just didn’t want to go through removing the radio if I could avoid it.
I’ll probably go ahead an add a USB extension cable to prevent these headaches in the future. Would one of these extensions cause any problems?
That's correct, the USB dongle does NOT fit in the Vive headset, even without the cable cover panel thingy. The dongles are too wide and fat.
If putting it in the headset was an absolute must, you could always get something like this .
I also haven't tried pushing the limits on range. It could be that these work pretty well through a wall or two if your machine is far away.
C2G USB Extension Cable - USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension Cable, Black (6 Inches) - 52119 [link]
Glad you got it resolved. ;)
Also, for future reference- from the sound of it, your damage is apart of a very common thing to happen with XIM Apex, and dongles in general. Having a skinny, thin metal/plastic piece hanging off a console is generally a bad idea, and poor engineering if I say so myself.
To remedy this and prevent further potential damage a USB extension cable is PERFECT for this. I took the liberty of hunting one down, but they are fairly cheap and easy to find on Amazon.
The first step is to gut a GameCube. This is a relatively simple process except that Nintendo uses proprietary screws. As long as they're not screwed in too tight you can build your own (temporary) screwdriver using a plastic pen and a lighter. Use the lighter to melt the plastic then jam it into the screw slot. It should cool into the shape of the screw. It might take a few rounds of melting to get every screw.
Once the cube is open it's pretty straight forward. You basically can throw out everything except the face plate. Keep working on dismantling until you have the shell separated from everything else.
Note: I don't have any pictures for the next few steps.
Now you need to make room for your components. The first step is to remove the edges/bumps on the inside of the purple shell. I borrowed a dremel to do this part. There are only two pegs that are important to keep untouched, and they can identified as being useful in the next step.
Next I started making a mount for the USB ports. I bought some plastic plates at a model / craft store and some glue made for plastics. After stacking several pieces on top of each other (totaling 3/4-1 inch in size?) I drilled holes into the plates matching the GameCube ports. Then cut two holes matching the two pegs mentioned previously. This will help keep your mount from moving. You optionally can paint visible side black to better match the GameCube's look.
The next step is to cut out a rectangle on the back of the GameCube and put your own plastic sheet in there. It needs to be strong enough to support a HDMI and CAT5 (optional) mounts. Use some screws (with washers) to attach your plate to the back of the GameCube.
Securing the USB mount is annoying. Basically you need to glue (I used hot glue) the plastic mount you made to the GameCube shell. Once that dries you place your USB extenders into your mount so it lines up with the GameCube slots.
Now the second most annoying part: cable management. You have to place the Raspberry Pi in the shell such that it can accept: 4 USB cables (GameCube ports), HDMI (rear plate), CAT5 (rear plate), and an outgoing power cable. Cable ties are your friend here, and the HDMI is your enemy. Once everything is tucked in tight you shouldn't have any more surprises.
The GameCube comes with a few compartments on its undercarriage which can be used to hold the micro-USB power cord. You can pop open the lid of the GameCube and throw your USB wall charger inside.
That wall of text is how to set up the physical GameCube. The Raspberry Pi is another (and thankfully simpler) matter. The RetroPie project takes care of all of the hard work. You may have to install some drivers for 360 controllers, but I can't remember.
All in all the whole setup works great. If you have any more questions please let me know!