Not particularly elegant but I find good utility in things like this.
Cablelera Power Cord Extension and Splitter, NEMA 5-15P to NEMA 5-15R x 2, 16 AWG, 13A, 125V (ZWACPQAG-14) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRODUR4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_R8ZTRCEQF5N784DECZ42
No
That will work but a momentary switch identical to your first link that initiates a shutdown procedure will work much better than just cutting the power.
https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4 will power the monitor and pi power supply.
Is there a particular reason you want to charge the phone through the pack? I would just use a simple splitter like this.
I think you want something like a splitter, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4/ref=sr_1_14?crid=24JLQKRKR5SWE&keywords=duplex+plug+adapter&qid=1671399011&sprefix=duplex+plug+adapte%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-14
This is one option
https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4
With some electrical tape to secure the plugs.
Zip tie together three bricks. Get splitter like this
https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4/
*The car has to be fully on
Unlock the cabin V2L door with the key that comes with the fob, slide the door open to expose the outlet
*The device has to have 3 prongs, if your device doesnt have a ground prong you'll need to put something in between like a power strip or a splitter like this ...
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I have a LED light on my outlet (GT line) and anything without the 3rd prong will give it a red led and not supply power. Once you insert a 3 prong plug it will go green.
Cablelera Power Cord Extension and Splitter, NEMA 5-15P to NEMA 5-15R x 2, 16 AWG, 13A, 125V (ZWACPQAG-14) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRODUR4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_QRTPRD1PMPWYAA7HEV2Y
Would that work?
I use one of these Y cables, or a power strip that just sits on top of the mount
Search Keyword: Power Squid
https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4
You might need to use your own other extension cords.
I used this for my courtesy outlet. May work for ya.
https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4
>4 comments
YUPP that's exactly that I did - and these, too, for all of those large plugs, you can get pigtails with multiple plugs:
https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4?ref_=ast_sto_dp
You really should not be using any heat sources that are not connected to a thermostat.
Unless your enclosure is located in a room with very, very good climate control (air conditioning, heating, and we're talking laboratory-grade), or you live in an equatorial country, as the seasons and weather change you are looking at 20 degrees of heat variation. As the weather changes, the temperatures inside the enclosure might reach unsafe levels; without a thermostat, as the room temperature changes, the enclosure temperature changes with it.
Instead, make sure each heating element is connected to a thermostat. Make sure each element is powerful enough (has enough wattage), and use the thermostat to fine-tune the temperature. When done this way, you can set the temperature and basically never need to worry about it. Even a particularly hot or cold day, the enclosure will still be at safe temperatures.
For your size enclosure I recommend at least 100W for the basking bulb. The wattage on your infrared bulb is fine.
For the thermostat, I strongly recommend the Herpstat line of thermostats. Using the Herpstat 2, plug your basking lamp/UV into line 1 (you'll need a power cable splitter), and your night lamp into line 2. Or, use a Herpstat 3 and plug all elements into their own line. All Herpstat thermostats can be programmed with a day/night cycle and can power up to 500W per line.
I don't understand the power tower, why not add a simple power cord splitter when you need the extra socket, and a modern USB charging station with enough oomph.