{"product":{"product_id":"B07DC3LH9C","title":"CAMWAY 5PCS 2in1 1-8s Lipo Battery Voltage Tester,RC Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm,Battery Monitor Checker Tester for 1-8s Lipo/Li-ion/LiMn/Li-Fe","price":"14.99","image_url":"https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51yTYDN675L._SL500_.jpg","url":"https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC3LH9C"},"comments":[{"body":"\"Low voltage\" according to the battery gauge is ~3.4V on the battery itself. That's still above the minimum \"safe\" voltage for a standard lipo cell.\r\n\r\nIn the RC world, you typically stop to recharge a lipo battery when it hits 3.3V/cell. There are [alarm attachments that plug into the balance port](https://www.amazon.com/CAMWAY-Battery-Voltage-Monitor-Checker/dp/B07DC3LH9C) on RC lipo batteries that are made specifically for this.\r\n\r\nThe built-in battery controller also isn't stupid, it's not gonna let the battery *actually* die. What you see when the battery \"dies\" (usually) is an automatic shutdown sequence triggered by the low voltage to *avoid* actually killing the battery.\r\n\r\nIt'll be fine.","subreddit_name":"Android","author":"land8844"},{"body":"None of my boats run lipo. I just don't need the power nor do I need the light weight nature of lipo. Usually the opposite, I need more weight to get the boats low enough in the water and that's why some of my boats run old lead acid batteries. Lipo batteries are great for lots of things, and I run them in my truck but I just don't need them in the boats. That said, all my stuff is scale, not race or speed oriented. \r\n\r\nOne option for avoiding the low voltage cutout is using a non-lipo speed controller and putting a beeping voltage monitor on the balancing leads of a lipo. They are pretty loud so as soon as you hear it you just bring the boat in and stop. \r\n\r\n[Here is one of those beeping voltage monitors.](https://smile.amazon.com/CAMWAY-Battery-Voltage-Monitor-Checker/dp/B07DC3LH9C/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=lipo+battery+monitor\u0026amp;qid=1628883912\u0026amp;sr=8-4) This was just the first one on amazon. You can find the same thing anywhere under gobs of different brands and they all look about the same. I've seen them at hobby stores and hobby expo booths too.","subreddit_name":"rcboats","author":"OutlyingPlasma"},{"body":"Something like this?\r\n\r\nCAMWAY 5PCS 2in1 1-8s Lipo Battery Voltage Tester,RC Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm,Battery Monitor Checker Tester for 1-8s Lipo/Li-ion/LiMn/Li-Fe https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07DC3LH9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_04EKBXDEJGBR4ZBY4P2B?_encoding=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1","subreddit_name":"rccars","author":"pharmerjoe"},{"body":"I use these for checking voltage:\r\n\r\nCAMWAY 5PCS 2in1 1-8s Lipo Battery Voltage Tester,RC Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm,Battery Monitor Checker Tester for 1-8s Lipo/Li-ion/LiMn/Li-Fe https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DC3LH9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_tbmRFb7HGSMNS\r\n\r\nThe uruav works great. The buttons are small, but it remembers the setting between uses. So I set mine to 3.8v and don’t mess with it. I can plug in a battery at night and it is done in the morning. Wish I had more of them, but I guess it’s not too bad to “have” to fly before bedtime! 🤪","subreddit_name":"TinyWhoop","author":"LilSherm99"},{"body":"CAMWAY 5PCS 2in1 1-8s Lipo... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC3LH9C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share","subreddit_name":"arrma","author":"Basic_Beyond8463"},{"body":"Have you tried connect it to a different port/slot on the para board?  Have you tried connecting it to a battery checker?  Something like [this](https://www.amazon.com/CAMWAY-Battery-Voltage-Monitor-Checker/dp/B07DC3LH9C/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=battery+checker+balance+port\u0026amp;qid=1624911966\u0026amp;s=hi\u0026amp;sr=1-8) that checks cell voltages.  You should definitely get a checker of some kind if you don't have one.  [These](https://www.amazon.com/ISDT-Battery-Meter%EF%BC%8CLCD-Capacity-Balancer/dp/B07797N9BG/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=battery+checker+balance+port\u0026amp;qid=1624911966\u0026amp;s=hi\u0026amp;sr=1-4) are nice, but a bit pricey...  \r\n\r\nI had a battery last night whose lead for cell 1 came loose from the plug.  You may want to check that the leads are seated well.  The wires have crimped ends that are held in by plastic tabs, much like what you see [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9xeg_3eREc).  Be very careful not to create a short to any other pins when checking them, though.","subreddit_name":"drones","author":"cokert"},{"body":"https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC3LH9C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_IZqrFbF61E4DT\r\n\r\nLeave it attached to the batteries while driving, it will start beeping when it gets low.  I put velcro on this one to keep it from flopping around. https://i.imgur.com/4e4nufe.jpg \r\n\r\nRemember, the current flow through the system will be the same at each part. If you are pulling 30 amps at the speed control, 2 batteries in series will both be flowing 30 amps.  For batteries in series, you can think of it as 1 battery.","subreddit_name":"rccars","author":"clayrev"},{"body":"I know this post is a month old at this point, but thought I would suggest that you get a voltage monitor for the plane instead of relying on a timer. They are small, plug into the balance connector on your LIPO, and beep incredibly loudly when your battery gets  low enough that you should consider landing. They are easily audible while flying and only cost a few dollars. Not sure what country you are in, but I bought these from US Amazon:\r\n\r\n[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DC3LH9C/](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DC3LH9C/)","subreddit_name":"RCPlanes","author":"UberWeasel"},{"body":"Okay, here goes. \r\n\r\n1. I've not even seen as high as 5000mah, like I said the highest ones I used to have were 3000. \r\n2. Yeah, don't use too much amps to charge them, they will heat up too much and greatly lower the service life of the batteries. I'd say 2-3 amps at the max. But just keep an eye on them while charging, they shouldn't get over 120 F or so while charging. General rule of thumb is no more than 1 Amp per 1000 mah of the battery, but heat is the limiter. \r\n3. Most boards should split the load equally, yes. \r\n4. I am really not sure. I'd consult the manual. I've got a Turnigy charger and it has a Nimh mode. \r\n5. Lipos are about the same price, maybe a smidge cheaper. I get my 5200 mah 8.4v packs for 29 USD at the local Hobbytown. 2S lipos run anywhere from 20 to 40 each. I've always used cheap ones and have had great luck with the Turnigy, Gen's Ace, SMC and Rage RC brands. For your amp, I'd get [something like this](https://www.amainhobbies.com/gens-ace-bashing-2s-35c-lipo-battery-pack-w-xt60-connector-7.4v-5200mah-ga-b1133/p1001152). That lasted about 30-40 minutes in mine, depending on driving style. More after I went brushless. \r\n6. My 2S Lipos generally charge to full in around 25-40 minutes, depending on how drained they were. The Lipo's you would use in an AMP is a 2S lipo. It means 2 LIPO Cells in Series. Voltage is at 8.4v once fully charged, down to 6.8v when run down. You never want your batteries to go below 3.2V per cell. \r\n7. [Alarm is here] (https://www.amazon.com/CAMWAY-Battery-Voltage-Monitor-Checker/dp/B07DC3LH9C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=lipo+alarm\u0026amp;qid=1566857311\u0026amp;s=gateway\u0026amp;sr=8-3)\r\n8. Yeah you can have a fire, just plug it in backwards and charge it, puncture it with something large and sharp, or overcharge it at a ridiculous amp load . If you are smart with them, the risk is minimal. I charge mine in an old ammo can, and then store them in a Lipo bag, but I've never had a single problem. Just read a guide on Lipo safety before you get started and you'll be fine.","subreddit_name":"rccars","author":"qhollis405"}]}