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I bought one of the $20 bluetooth ones from Amazon, it works fine with most of the scanner apps I have tried. Amazon is good about returns and forcing 3rd party sellers to take returns. The cheap OBDII scanners are all resold Alibaba/Aliexpress items, so if you wanted to wait for shipping from China you could get one for a fraction of the cost from Aliexpress.
edit: After reading your post again I think I misunderstood. It sounds like you need a multi thousand dollar shop tool and a multimeter (cheap). It would be wise to do as much research as you can and then call shops until you can set up an appointment for a free scan with the tool. Make sure they are willing to do it and print out the results for you regardless of if you choose to use their services to fix any problems they find. A good shop should be fine with that.
Also this is a horrible sub to find good mechanical advice, consider /r/MechanicAdvice/
I bought this one because the real power is in the app, and the app is only 10 bucks. It works well. Takes a little setup but it sounds like you're up to the task. It's really simple but lots of great info about the auto you're checking! You can keep it connected while you drive and check on the performance live.
Smart move! Let us know what’s going on.
Edit: still a good idea to pick up an obd scanning tool. They are cheap and cheerful. Example: Car WIFI OBD 2 OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Foseal Scanner Adapter Check Engine Light Diagnostic Tool for iOS & Android [link]
I use this a lot for my vehicles and friends.
Car WIFI OBD 2 OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Foseal Scanner Adapter Check Engine Diagnostic Tool for iOS & Android [link]
It's wifi based so connects to any cell phone and I have several apps I use on iPhone. Let's me see check engine codes and fuel usage, and other helpful information.
I can screenshot the codes and send them to friends so they can get them fixed.
Might work for what you need.
Distributor cap? A 1998 Mustang GT should have a 4.6L Mod motor with distributorless ignition and coilpacks. Bad misfire under load is usually ignition related. Double check everything - sometimes those plug wires don't want to seat snuggly with those long boots. Try to keep the wires from draping on bare metal and touching each other too much too.
Do you have a OBDII scanner? A cheap wifi/bluetooth scanner and a halfway decent OBDII app on your phone will give you access to the Mode $06 data which will show you misfire counts on each cylinder even if it's not throwing a code yet. I use this little guy and OBD Fusion on my phone - if you've got an android phone/tablet you can use a Bluetooth adapter instead which frees up your wifi to google stuff while you're connected.
BTW, the Ford computers are pretty conservative about throwing misfire codes or even flashing the CEL during an active misfire - I've had a really obvious and unmistakable misfire not blink the CEL or set a code in my Mustang (it was a bad wire) while my GMC Sierra will flash and set codes for misfires you can't even feel.
i bought this one a few years ago when they first came out, and it's been fine. my assumption is others will be similar but read reviews. the cheaper ones may only have the ability the pull codes but not capture real-time data which is what you want. specifically you want O2 sensor.
If you buy a OBDII adapter that can connect to your phone you can change vehicle settings and that is one of them.
This one works for my iphone, but there are plenty others on amazon.
No problem, and let me know how it goes for you. Maybe there's something else you can try. I bought one of these OBD2 scanners off of Amazon to check engine codes - links with your smartphone. It's inexpensive and has come in handy several times.
I couldn't get leaf spy connected to the OBD2 reader I got when checking out a leaf in the area. The guy who owned the car didn't know anything about it or leaf spy, but let me try. He got nervous when I couldn't get it working, so we stopped.
I connected to it via WIFI. I didn't have to put a passcode like I've read. Am I doing something wrong?
What's the difference between leaf spy and a report from the dealer (which the seller was more comfortable with)?
I would buy this [link]
You can get your codes, clear them, etc. Get the Torque app on Android or Dash Commander on IOS.
Mine is a wifi one. The connection process is kind of weird... You have to set the IP to static and then give it a generic IP address and gateway, etc. Strange, but simple and it works perfectly. Here's the one I bought and I have an iPhone 6.
You're right. I confused it with this one as I was on mobile. Same shell and was sitting around BS'ing with friends. Sorry about that.
For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in
and make it:
Plz send any recommendations via PM
Looks like this one will Car WIFI OBD 2 OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Foseal Scanner Adapter Check Engine Light Diagnostic Tool for iOS & Android [link]
I got an OBD tool similar to this:
And the Carista app:
Paid for the pro for a few days, pro let’s you adjust the cars computer settings.
Also let me turn on “hold unlock on fob to roll down windows” feature.
This is the one I used: [link]
I've got one of these and have used it for every vehicle I've owned for the past few years without issue.
The specific iOS app I use with it is OBD Fusion.
Torque. You'll also need an OBDII Scan Tool.
I spent $20 on an adapter and use the free app.
obd II bluetooth reader
Here you go. Less than 20 bucks
It's super easy to change an O2 sensor, but make sure the sensor is actually bad. Often times people will change the sensor because it's giving a bad reading, but in reality the sensor is just fine and it's reporting a faulty condition elsewhere. I'd suggest getting your own code reader and investigate.
paired with this app:
Are you just talking about an ODBII scanner? Get the DashCommand app and a compatible hardware device, like this:
Sometimes you'll need something specific to a brand, like this one, to read airbag and brake codes:
Like this one?
I just ordered this to check the codes.
In general, used cars are sold as-is, so it's up to you to discover any issues. Georgia doesn't have any kind of lemon law for used cars, so your recourse is limited to proving fraud by the dealer. I really doubt the dealer would actually disconnect the bulb, since tearing into the dash to do that would be far more difficult than just clearing the codes or even fixing whatever is causing the problem. That was almost certainly done by the previous owner.
By the way, an OBD2 reader that connects to your phone through Bluetooth costs under $20 and will show any codes and whether they have been recently cleared. I always bring one whenever I buy a used car.
That said, it's important to figure out what the codes are. If you live in an area without emissions inspections, many of them do not actually impact the driveability of the car in any significant way and can be ignored. Most of them can be fixed for under $100 in parts.