I use this, Cardas Soldering Wire Quad Eutectic Silver Solder with rosin flux 1/4 lbs (113g) roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015X68HXW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_QC37N7ZCN7WZSNH9VVFZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I do a bit of audio stuff too and its overkill for rc but i bought that roll in 2018 and still have a ton left, its great stuff and worth every penny.
Is silver solder like this (https://www.amazon.com/Cardas-Soldering-Eutectic-Silver-Solder/dp/B015X68HXW) okay for re-soldering the female connectors onto the end of tonearm wires?
3 of the 4 female cartridge connectors broke off the wires when I was changing my cartridge recently. I resoldered them all, but there wasn't very much solder left on two of them (the left channel connectors).
I was getting very quiet sound from the left side, so I bought myself some fresh solder. The stuff I linked to above.
I tried resoldering the connectors today. First up, the solder ran into the connector itself, meaning they no longer fit on the cartridge pins. So I spent 30+ minutes with the soldering iron and various pins and screwdrivers trying to clean the solder out from inside the connector. I never managed to clean it out, but I at least reduced it to the point that they could now fit on the pins.
So I got them fitting on the pins, put on a record, and now there's no sound from the left side whatsoever?
That stuff is pretty good, but I especially like the silver-bearing solder, like this. https://www.amazon.com/Cardas-Soldering-Eutectic-Silver-Solder/dp/B015X68HXW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469639712&sr=8-2&keywords=silver+bearing+solder
I'd go for leaded solder with no silver rather than a silver-bearing lead-free mix, though. Lead-free solder is harder to use, especially with no flux/rosin. No wonder you were having problems.
I recently got a second pair of headphones for the office and fumbling with cables on my desk when I wanted to switch between the two got old very quickly. My solution was to extend my amp's output to a more convenient location. I chose to use my amp's balanced output because a) I have it, b) XLR is reliable and easy to work with, and c) pro-quality parts are readily available. Here are the parts I used if you want to try building something similar:
Total cost: $81.79, including the solder and 6 ft interconnect. Only $25.89 if you already have those.
It was really easy to assemble: just strip back the ends of four conductors and solder them into the solder cups of the XLR jacks, pin 1 to pin 1 and so on, and solder the cable shields to the XLR ground lugs. Check your work with a multimeter, then shove it into the Neutrik housing. I mounted the housing to my desk with 3M VHB tape and it is super secure. I made a second one for home where I screwed it into my desk instead of using VHB tape and it is even more solid.