Amazon has them for $22. Match with one of these to attach it.
The actual product doesn't have that weird edge, it's just a flat sheet.
Ayeeee another HulkFit/BalanceFrom power rack owner! So couple of recommendations for you to help make the rack a bit better. First off get some black UHMW from Amazon or eBay. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070ZARHO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_CT8TwQzkaTpcR
Use a regular saw or jigsaw and cut it up and just super glue it onto the j-hooks. You definitely wanna do this cause the j hook metal will grind your barbell metal and that’s just bad. Second get a sharpie and just number the holes on the rack makes it much easier when you’re moving the j hooks around for bench press or squats etc and easier to place when you can see numbers. Third when I bought this from Walmart there was a promotion from the company itself for free j hooks if you write a review about the rack, do it since it a no brainer an extra pair of j hooks is super useful. Now onto the cons of the rack it’s not actually 3x3 it’s 2.4x2.4 so you’re stuck with only this companies accessories the only other company that comes close to fitting is the myforceusa stuff but it wouldn’t be an exact fit cause of the pegs being smaller. So if you look on Amazon under HulkFit you can find all their accessories and under Walmart it’s here: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Everyday-Essentials-1000-Pound-Capacity-Multi-Function-Adjustable-Power-Cage-with-J-Hooks-Dip-Bars-and-Other-Optional-Attachments/676393229
Good luck and get them gainz!
Yep. Mill it to size and bolt it on. I've run across anecdotal successes in using two-part epoxy, but personally wouldn't trust it to last forever. Especially under regular barbell shock. Screws seem to be the real way to go.
Buy a textured HDPE sheet off of Amazon. Works fine, highly durable and doesn't have an issue with any sensors I've used on it.
I wanted a hard pad, but many of the available ones seemed really small to me. I saw someone talking about it before and ordered a high density polyethylene sheet from amazon. (this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2QT1XO )
I haven't been using it for too long, but it seems to work alright. It was a cheap price and a large size. I needed to sand down the edges because they were sharp though.
As for tracking, make sure you have a mouse that will track alright with it. That said, it seems to track fine with a G900. It also seems to be rather alright for a Ventus R, but the Ventus R doesn't seem to like lifting off and coming down at an angle on it.
As for the friction and stuff, it is a bit more slick than the artisan hayate otsu mid that I have. Particularly better for initial friction.
Overall it is cheap, pretty big, and feels pretty decent. Just needs to have the edges sanded down so they don't cut you.
Do the effects have to be sculpted in 3D, or could you paint them onto something like this? Or could you layer / construct with a material like that for a more 3D look?
In videogames, most of the special effects for magic attacks (& so on) are just flat images. (But they're oriented towards the in-game camera so they always look right, which you can't really do in real life.)
Egg crate. https://www.amazon.com/Divider-EggCrate-Aquarium-Lighting-AZM/dp/B083NCDJ84/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=plastic+egg+crate&qid=1633612420&sr=8-15
You can actually find this stuff in most hardware stores like lowes and home depot. When I do a heavy rockscape I start by doing a layer of this over the entire bottom of the tank. Splendid weight distribution. If you intend any digging fish, do this layer, the rock directly on top of it, then fill in the substrate around it.
The grey track is the Adventure Force Crash Racers Figure 8 set that you can find at Walmart for $30/set. I have gotten 3 of those sets over time and I'm using two sets worth on this track.
The black track is of my own making, but don't worry it's super easy and I'm not even really crafty. It's made out of corrugated plastic sheets. If you think plastic yard sign, that's the stuff. You can find white ones at your local home improvement store for $5-8/sheet, but if your willing to wait you can order them on Amazon for $25 for 5 sheets. You can cut them with scissors or an exacto knife, but it's a little impractical so buying a cutting tool for another $25 is way worth it I'll link them both below for you.
Everything else like the start gate and 2-lane turns I had 3D-printed for me by Slanman Customs who you can find on his site or on Facebook. He specifically makes diecast racing products he's pretty good.
Hope that helps and happy racing!
Found this on an old forum site: "The SK26 is the "Slick" version of the GR1, with the same dimensions. The only things missing on the SK26 as opposed to the GR1 are, place for a patch, hydration port, and molle on the outside."
I'm not familiar with HDPE, but I assume they have plastic or Kydex perhaps. I ordered a sheet of Kydex from Amazon a while back, for a ruck that doesn't come with an insert. I measured it the best I could and used aviation shears to snip it to size. With a little sandpaper to smooth out the rough edges, came out pretty nice. As far as the measurements go for the insert of an SD26, I think you have to pretty much do the best you can with a ruler or measuring tape and kinda just eyeball it. Although I'm sure someone on here has cut a Kydex insert before for a GR1.
KYDEX V Sheet - 0.118" Thick, Black, 12” x 24” Nominal https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004U6VBU8/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_B2KAAKFFVYYCZ63N0J1E
Here is a link to the plastic I used for both of mine. 1/16th of an inch thick is the perfect thickness.
My epax came with a nfep, I don't feel it was all that and a bag of chips.
I have been using these .15 from Amazon and they are still crystal clear after 2 months of 18-20 hours a day printing.
Here's what I ordered around 2015 for my PB Simple Metal.
Heat transfer is fine.
Being thin is a good thing, otherwise you'd run into issues with the induction sensor probe.
That said, my Z induction probe had already failed by then and I had already replaced it with one that can trigger from further, but you should really be fine with the stock one.
Just make sure to recalibrate your Z probe after installation (both physically as well as M212), because your bed will be a tad higher and the hotend will otherwise dig into the bed.
With PEI, I barely have to "squish" that first layer, unlike with other beds.
If you squish it down like you used to you might very well need a chisel and hammer to get your parts off. Not kidding here, I had to get a 1" chisel and a deadblow to get a large print out once or twice.
I just trimmed and glued mine down on it with 3M transfer tape.
FYI: The kapton, I hear, is great for ABS, but I'm personally not using that.
PS: Prusa, I think, is also making those removeable magnetic, spring steel, PEI coated bed surfaces which sounds absolutely magical, but my plain PEI sheet is still going strong after I installed it in 2015 so I haven't looked into them too much.
The removeable spring steel magic allows you to simply flex the surface to get your stuff off it.
It's an ideal printing surface, but I havent looked into retrofitting one on a printrbot.
DM me if you need a hand, gl.
I would 100% agree with that review. Any kind of knurl is going to eat this away quickly. You need a sheet of UHMW. You can cut to size and mount to your J cups.
1/2" (12mm) White Grid Divider EggCrate Louvre 23.5" x 11.5" for Aquarium Lighting Nominal Size AZM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083NCDJ84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5AFCRJEZ0FF0YVH26E1D
I used something similar to this
Dimples and such are normal, that should not need to be replaced. Unless they're really bad and about to rip or something extreme.
For replacements, I think you might be able to use:
cut in half. I haven't needed to replace my FEP yet on the Saturn, but the dimensions seem to work out. That would be 8 replacements with free shipping, so just $3.75 per sheet.
Yeah sure no problem! The actual material I used in my cover, was this foam filled plastic stuff from my local art store, but now I see what you mean when you said its hard to find online...
A potential substitute for that kind of foam would probably be something like this, as corrugated plastic seems alot easier to find, and is basically a cheaper alternative that does the same job!
Hope this helps
Oh yeah forgot about that so I included all the parts sans Home Depot stuff below. So I bought that UHMW from amazon and then used a jigsaw and cut out the square pieces you see in the photo then I just superglued all the pieces onto the j hook and clamped it down for a day. Worked relatively well, sometimes the smaller piece on the lip would pop off but I’d just super glue it back on. At least the barbell would no longer grind on the j hook and that was key.
For the knee anchor just get one 3/4” thick 48” L black pipe from HD and then get two 3/4” thick 6” L Black pipe, two 3/4” t joins, and then four 3/4” 90 degree joins and assemble per my photo. Make sure to use a wrench or something to screw the joins on super tight to prevent movement.
UHMW - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070ZARHO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_pGfKTMatr2HpE
Knee anchor foam padding - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LDEE0EO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You could do what I did and get some polycarbonate( durable clear plastic) from amazon. Just cut it to fit your tank. https://www.amazon.com/Polycarbonate-Plastic-Robotics-Industrial-Shatterproof/dp/B07MQTDF4R
I did a bad job but just buy this plastic thingy from amazon and cut it
Yes the plastic lining on higher end j hooks is called UHMW. UHMW is a polyethylene plastic that is tough and resistant so good for barbell metal. You can buy a 12 x 12 sheet of it on Amazon for about $20.
What I then did is measure out the j hook on my power rack and use a jigsaw to cut out 3 pieces of UHMW per j hook. 1 for the flat back, 1 for the bottom of the hook and 1 for the lip of the hook that curves up. Once I cut all the pieces I superglued each piece on and used clamps to hold in place till glue dried up. It doesn’t look super professional but it works for what I need it to do.
Amazon. I'm sure you can find it at Hobby Lobby or office stores. It's usually used to make signs. This is what I bought. TSM Coroplast Correx Poster Corrugated Plastics Sheets Sign Blank Board (24"x18"x4mm, 5-Pack/Blacks) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BPVP1KB/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6oLDEbZ20CTCG for $26. I originally bought it to make wide track.
Basically, we used the below ABS sheets from Amazon:
ABS Plastic Sheet 3-pack 12" X 24" X 0.0625" (1/16") with Resource Kit for VEX Robotics Teams by Robosource link
First, we cut the plastic sheet to the width of the control panel using the table saw. Then, we measured the thickness of the panel that we wanted to cover-up, and cut the sheet to the length of the panel plus the length of that overlap (plus a few millimeters to allow for the bend). Then using a bender that is usually used for metal, we used a heat gun and carefully heated the plastic at the bend point just enough to bend the material in a 90 degree angle. After getting it just right, we applied spray adhesive to both the panel board and the back side of the plastic. Then using two other pieces of scrap wood, clamped it all together for 24 hours to make sure we had a solid adhesion.
After that part was done, it was just a matter of putting it under a drill press with the hole templates (I used this one: bamboo arcade ). And do keep in mind to TAKE IT SLOW with the drill press because it can catch and totally destroy the plastic. I had a few close calls.
I chose to mount my sticks from the bottom, since I was using 3/4" MDF which is more than thick enough to accommodate beefy screws underneath. This gives a nice clean surface on the top of the control panel.
Anyway, I hope that helps!
Okay, I'm going to screw this up but the link is below. I bought mine several years ago and used red (which looks super cool in the ruck).
ABS Plastic Sheet 3-pack 12" X 24" X 0.0625" (1/16") with Resource Kit for VEX Robotics Teams https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PESTJS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_OXQ1CbZ4JCDE5
If you search around a bit you can find multi thickness packs, especially if you go off Amazon and are willing to wait a few weeks for delivery.
If you use multiple sheets they are thin enough to easily bend making them very easy to get in and out of the ruck. One sheet isn't very stiff. But multiple sheets are quite stiff and comparable to kydex.
If you like I can dig around in the workshop and find my stash and snap a few pics.
I went from a Artisan Hayate Otsu Mid to this one. I had no problems changing to it at all - I immediately knew I liked it. I did however have to sand the edges of the sheet because they were too sharp for my wrists to drag along.
As for the texture, it is quite a bit like one of those plastic cutting boards.
Also, like some hardpads, some older sensor mouses may not track quite as well on it, but I haven't really had all too much of a problem with that myself.
If you shrink your 360 by like 1.5" then you could get a 24" wide one and wouldn't have to cut anything, assuming you don't have the desk space or something
I bought this sheet of plain Kydex and cut it myself. Just lay the existing frame sheet down and trace it. Cut just inside of the lines for an easier fit. I used a vertical band saw to cut it.
This article gave some great instructions.
I replaced the existing sheet with the Kydex in the frame sheet pocket.
Another option is using a PEI sheet (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf ). I personally use a mirror and PEI. Nice flat surface with great hold. If you don't have an IKEA near you, Home Depot has a 12 pack of mirrors for $20.
I bought the same thing for my v1:
12"x12" 0.03" PEI
(6) 12x12" 3M Adhesive Transfer Tape:
At the time there were no practical cheaper/smaller options (although the extra 3M adhesive does come in handy).
... I scored/snapped the sheet into 4 pieces, and I'm still on the first PEI sheet after like 300 hours. It still looks flawless. I only use sharp scraper blades or no tools to remove parts. If you're printing something crazy in a cold room, you can add hairspray, but for the most part, PEI has perfect adhesion on it's own.
I definitely recommend the thicker PEI (0.03"+), as it makes the MPSM bed much more rigid. I don't have to bend the aluminum bed "flat again" anymore. I dont worry about bending the bed when ripping parts off the bed, even with super high adhesion.
Clean it with alcohol, not sandpaper.
> was all scratched up due to me not being careful with getting prints off.
You probably bent your bed, it's super easy to bend back into shape by hand, just don't destroy it. On my MPSMv1 sometimes just pulling off a print can bend it upwards, and lifting a print with a blade can bend it downwards.
Put that glass back on, but a smaller sheet of glass would let you adjust the set screws. I adjust them during the first layer skirt.
My favorite MPSM bed cover is 0.03" Thick PEI (score/snap into 4 pieces) secured with 3M transfer tape
There are cheaper all-in-one PEI sticker sheets these days, but this is what I used when the MPSMv1 came out long ago, and I'm still on my first PEI square out of 4... I really wouldn't buy anything under 0.03" thick.
It needs zero cleaning and preparation, just the occasional squirt of hairspray. Parts snap off easily. Can print at lower bed temps than glass. Showing no signs of wear at all.
I use 200x200mm glass on my larger Delta printer. It's awesome, but I always keep that thing 60-80 C for printing exotic filaments. It requires more hairspray applications (every 2-4 prints) than PEI (every 20 prints), and it just looks dirtier in general.
I used this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Works like a charm. I actually like it more than the original. It has a more matte feel to it that I like a lot. I have the prusa mk2
You could try an HDPE surface such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2QT1XO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
If you wipe it off with Lemon Pledge in addition, the glide should be even faster. Not my video, but you can see how well it glides here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dI1O1-CpeBs
The only problem is that these surfaces may cause 3310 sensors to malfunction, so I'd suggest against buying one if you have a mouse that sports one of these.
The sheets they come with are a different type of plastic and just more flexible by nature, so the thickness isn't a good comparison.
Maybe ask these guys if they can get you a bigger piece? I think that's even thicker than what I got on Amazon (.118"). Seems expensive though. http://www.casstrom.se/en/knife-making/kydex-black-33-mm-0125-15x30-cm.html
If you haven't read, getting that Kydex sheet in to a GR2 is going to be really tough.
I got this PEI with this adhesive.
I've always ordered this off Amazon. $14.20 each when in stock for Prime shipping.
KYDEX V Sheet - 0.118" Thick, Black, 12” x 24” Nominal
The .093 might be easier to work with, if/when it's ever in stock.
PEI master race!
(from a previous comment of mine)
>This was the one I got, and I also got these adhesive pads to hold it to the bed. Right now the PEI is just clipped on since I wasn't sure how well it would work, but I'm planning to throw the adhesive sheet on and make it a little more permanent this weekend.
I ended up using the adhesive sheet because the middle bubbled up a little. I printed two halves of a prop that wouldn't go together smoothly because they were both concave instead of flat. I had to use one full adhesive sheet and then cut strips to fill out the rest of the bed, but that pack had 5 so it's no problem.
Not sold as a mosuepad, but is the same material. Its larger, and cheaper than any hardpad you can buy.
the thread that discusses it.
I recently stopped using blue tape and switched to PEI sheets on glass. I'll never go back. I think this would be a good thing for you to try, the PEI sheet releases pretty easily once cool.
PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j.9Dxb7FAEG3J
TapeCase 12" squares (pack of 6), Converted from 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S.9DxbBW56J7Z
Do note I am using a rostock, but psi will work on all regardless, it's also acetone resistant, so you could clean really easily
Here's what I've used for three of my packs. Has to be cut/trimmed to size, of course.
I use the existing frame sheet as a template and then cut it about 1/8" smaller on all sides.
"KYDEX V Sheet - 0.118" Thick, Black, 12" x 24" Nominal"
a other guy recommended me this
if that doesn't work then i will try yours :)
I use a sheet of 0.03" PEI stock on a glass bed with 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape.
Works well with PLA, ABS and PETG, and is easier to maintain then BuildTak, less messy then Hairspray or glue.
PEI 12x12 $16.70/sheet
adhesive sheets 6-pack $17.58 ($2.93/sheet)
lulzbot is ripping you off for that PEI.
What about taking something like this lexan sheet, cutting a small piece and super-gluing it to the back of the magazine?
A 1/2"x1/2" square may be enough to shim it and keep it from rocking.
$20 fix with shipping. I admit it sucks that the mfg didn't do it but I would try this if you really like the gun otherwise.
To add onto what /u/breda076 said, if you wanted to reinforce it then getting something like a piece of polycarbonate and gluing it (or you could fiberglass it into the wing if you want to get fancy) onto the bottom of the spoiler should suffice.
I've used their ABS, PLA and PETG with success on the i3.
If you don't mind a recommendation - PEI board - buy one, don't have to worry about abs slurry, painters tape, etc. Will make your first experience a TON better. Here are a couple URLs to what I've used successfully on the i3.
adhesive tape -
The only reliable source I've found at the moment is Amazon. That said; I'm in Australia so options are limited :-)
I know that Amazon sells it (here), but not sure about UK shipping. It is also known by the trade name "ultem" and shouldn't be too hard to find.
I got these links from another post somewhere and bought them. They seem to be doing the job. I heat the bed up to 60-70C. A glue stick is needed when the surface area to height ratio is small. Otherwise, nothing needed. So far I've only printed PLA.
One issue I have is the build surface being a little bowed when I put it down (One side has some extra height to it). It's not too bad, but I'm trying to flatten it out.
Picked up a 12 x 12 inch piece from Amazon
I've had trouble finding any places that can supply it pre-cut in small quantities (even under 100 sheets).
Nah. This one - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
Glued on with this -
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
PEI. Get PEI. A thousand times over.
And 3m sheet adhesive -
I used this guide for auto-bed leveling:
and this PEI sheet from Amazon.
For the PEI sheet, most people like to use 3M adhesive to secure it to a piece of glass. I opted to use paperclips to hold it down, and it's worked great so far. These two mods are an absolute must do in my opinion.
Get a sheet of PEI and never look back. Sorry. Was a lot vague.
PEI sheet, + 3M glue sheet = never mess with your bed again.