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Ceedmon 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/5mm/7mm/9mm/13mm Diameter Cable, Black?
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I concur this is a possibility.
However you may not need to shield the cable. You might get away with simply re-routing the cable in the enclosure away from the stepper drivers. If you're running the cable out along the side of the board where the drivers are, move it so it's running along the other side of the board with the power connectors. Keep it as far away from the driver IC's as you can.
Failing that, putting a clip-on ferrite core such as one of these on the BLtouch wire may help too. At the board end would have most effect, but putting one at either end wouldn't hurt. If you have enough slack, you can even loop it around and run it through the core multiple times (the more the better technically). Could even help to put some on the stepper motor leads as well.
Yeah, any switch mode power supply will emit tons of RF interference unless properly shielded. This is because the square waves that come from PWM will have infinite odd harmonics, though the harmonics have less amplitude as they goes up in frequency. It's a common problem when using things like SDRs or RF measuring equipment because even your lights will have PWM and emit noise.
What you can try is a clamp on ferrite bead, like these. One or two should do the trick. That is, of course, assuming that it's actually the printer causing the issue. I'd put these beads on any cable with pwm signals, especially the power cables, until the issue goes away.
Former broadcast transmitter engineer here. Every AM station has a "blanket contour", an area close to the transmission tower where singals are strong enough to get into all kinds of electronic equipment. Stereos, surround sound systems, radios, PA systems (like your case) even telephones. Technically it is required by law for stations assist you in getting rid of the interference, but typically they will tell you something like "get a new system".
Someone else posted that you turn everything off then start with the power amplifier turning things back on. You should also try to find out i there is a particular source (microphones, CD player, etc.) where the signal is getting in. It may be caused by a ground loop or an unshielded cable. If this is a new problem it should be pretty easy to find what has changed since it started.
Often ferrite beads can be a cheap solution. Put one on each cable, even power lines, as close as possible where the signal/power enters each device.
Hope this helps!
My TV in my kitchen has PC speakers that are on all the time even when the TV is off, and occasionally if I just happen to position things a certain way (usually metal) they'll emit some weird interference type noise.
I'd suggest trying one of these clip-on ferrite cores on the center channel's cable. It could be that your system is emitting interference that's the source of the buzz you describe. This thing should help filter out that noise.
I'm kind of wondering if maybe the CPU could be having trouble keeping up with your SSD or vice-versa. It sort of implies to me that Steam for example starts loading, then maybe the CPU stalls out waiting for the data or for Steam to finish doing its thing, then resumes. A little hard to explain but it's rare to see a high-level application like that affect a low-level function like your mouse cursor movement. Often even if your system seems otherwise dead or stalled the mouse can still be responsive.
Do you use a wireless mouse? If so FWIW you could try to see if this same lag happens with a wired mouse, and if so, you could see about placing a torus around the cable going from your PC to the wireless mouse's transceiver in case some electrical noise is causing the wireless some interference.
I suggest getting a ferrite torus like one of these and place it on the cable going from your mouse's base to the back of your PC. These can help decrease any interference that might be creeping into the wireless signal and affecting transmission or reception.
Also if possible you might see whether you can configure the mouse to use a different channel, though all I have is a very old Logitech wireless non-gaming mouse so I dunno if a newer one like yours might let you try a different potentially less "noisy" channel.
I'll chime in. I'm a General-class Amateur Radio operator. As part of our FCC exam goes, the correct way of dealing with it is by applying a choke to filter out excess RF that your cables are picking up.
Your Modi could be picking up RF signals from its power cord (most likely) or USB cord. Your headphones could be picking it up after the amplified signal leaves the Modi (also common, but you would hear this with the same headphone/cable no matter what you have it plugged into).
The easiest/cheapest way to fix problems of this type is by applying some ferrite core chokes to the affected cables (disclosure: I just linked the first chokes I found on Amazon, and there are better and worse products on the market; what I use is very similar in price and appearance, and works well). To make the most of cheap chokes, I usually make a small loop of the cable closest to the plug, and clamp on the smallest choke that fits the doubled up part of the loop. A correctly formulated ferrite choke should filter out most RF noise in the UHF range (e.g., cell phones).
My Modi MB doesn't really pick up my phones or my radios, so I can't offer any specific advice, but 90% of the time I do end up with RF noise, it's the power cord that needs a choke. I've once knocked a cheap DAC offline with a 50W transmission 5ft away, and I had to put a choke on the USB cable to fix.
I remember my college days when my 2G phone would "thu-thump, thu-thump, thu-thump, bzzzzzzzzz" my subwoofer every hour or so, and man that was annoying lol. So try one of those, and hopefully you'll have some relief.
As an aside, if you can hear your cell's RF noise, your phone is likely working in high power mode (due to low signal, etc.). If you can turn on WiFi Calling (or upgrade your phone to one that can), you would likely never face this problem again.
Speaker and other wire can attract RF and your stylus maybe sensitive enough to tune it. You might be able to use some ferrite cores to shield cables from drawing in more frequency. They are cheap on Amazon. I put one on all my power cables where the power cables go into the device as well as on the positive side of my speaker wire where it goes into the speaker. Most noticeable difference on my setup was on noise in my TV display going to non-existent. I am not selling snake oil like it makes a sonic difference on your speaker output, but I do use speakers cable as my FM antenna in my garage and it works so I know speaker wire can pull in RF.
It’ll sound crazy if you’ve never heard of it, but this could be the result of EMI. I have the same problem, usually happens when I slide around in my office chair. (I guess static electricity builds up??)
I got some of these: Ceedmon 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/5mm/7mm/9mm/13mm Diameter Cable, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWCSNW9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4J03ZSW412BG7QX2JKTQ
It’s helped significantly, but I haven’t been able to eliminate the problem completely.
You must live near a strong AM tower.
You'll want to use good shielded cables and preferably balanced cabling when you can. You can also pick up ferrite chokes like these
I got these, put small ones on either end of the cable that goes into the DD base and I double looped the center through one of the large clips. Worked like a charm.
What type of clipons did you get? I just jumped on Amazon because I need these as well for these I found this review:
>A complete shot in the dark to remove interference on a USB cable to my laptop. Since the seller doesn't list the mix type you cannot be sure if it will fix the interfering frequency. I missed my return window... They got me and I have a product that does nothing for interference below 30MHz.
Thanks are clip on ferrite chokes like these has good as cables with them.
Ceedmon 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/5mm/7mm/9mm/13mm Diameter Cable, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWCSNW9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HY0B0FGHQ4M56AEVDD7F
You might try putting some of these ferrite chokes on the cables to your keyboard and any other device where interference is an issue. They solve a lot of problems.
I had similar issues. If you put ferrite beads on each peripheral going to the PC, with several wraps through the bead (if possible), it will probably go away. You'll need to do each wire going into the PC -- USB cables, ethernet, AC power, whatever else you have there. Once you make it go away, you could start removing the beads until you find the spots where it's really needed. You may need the beads on each end of each wire going to anything near the radio.
There's a cheap ferrite kit on amazon.com that has worked well for me in this regard. You can order that kit, snap them on each wire, and it'll probably be gone.
I know a lot of people here are saying it's your antenna. Let's be clear here though, if your SWR is low, then most of the power is being delivered to the antenna. Computers, and especially some peripherals (such as USB mice and flat-screen monitors) are notoriously sensitive to RFI. Even an HT transmitting near them with a few watts can set them into chaos. Before you dive into grounding and antenna things, just try the beads. It won't hurt and it will also have the added benefit of reducing emissions from the PC into the radio, which can be an issue on HF.
They seem like magic, but I've had good luck with ferrite cores at reducing ground loop hum like this. Amazon sells a multi-size pack for like $9, worth a shot.
The first thing I would check is to unplug the wire from the computer to the subwoofer at the subwoofer end and see if it goes away. If it does, then some clamp on ferrite beads like these should solve it. If it is still there, then you could try ferrite beads on the power supply line.
I had the same problem. Add these to your power and hdmi cable and it has helped me a to. Cedmon 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable, Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CWCSNW9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_JxeQFb020NQAZ
Oh, do you hear it though the speakers? It's probably electrical interference getting picked up by the speaker wires and amplified. You could try installing some ferrites on the speaker wires to stop them from picking up interference. https://www.amazon.com/Cedmon-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B07CWCSNW9
Another solution could be moving your pc farther from your speakers, or switching to an external usb sound card.
Hi Guys, Just a suggestion before giving up and sending it back, have you considered adding some clip-on Ferrite cores onto the cable to see if it suppresses the RFI/EMI noise? I noticed the my Huion Kamvas Pro 16 cable doesn't have any ferrite cores on the ends of the cable but I personally haven't noticed any interference of ghosting and am not sure if the Pro20 cable is also missing them. I did notice online that the Wacom tablets all have them on each end of their cables so perhaps they would help? Amazon sells them in kits for various size cables, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWCSNW9/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1S74XD9IDUGLD&psc=1 I really think adding one on each end of your cables along with any other monitor cables you use that might be missing them will help to get a pristine interference free image. I hope this helps, Good Luck!
Just buy or get him to buy a set of ferrite chokes/beads. Clamp them to your speaker lines and problem solved. Ferrite Choke
If it is the issue, your best bet would most likely be to get a longer Ethernet cord to move the pi further away from the router. That way the noise from the pi isn’t as close to the radios as it probably is now. If you wanna get crazy. You can build a faraday cage around it while having the pi wired into the router.
A cleaner look instead of a cage would be some ferrite cores that wrap around the cable could help, maybe. But I don’t actually know if that would help the emission or not.
That's a bit of a rough Pic but if I had to venture a guess... It's not one of the long strips that covers the lights so probably not.... However it does look like EMI shielding foil so it's possible... Lines are often caused by signal distortion in the circuit if the monitor is the cause.
Tldr: it could be but imy bet is on power caps,. I gave a full explanation in case you want to understand what it all is, buy copper or farady tape to fix that EMI shield.
Assuming you checked the cable and video card correctly I would guess that it's one of three types of component that is causing your issue, I will give some thoughts a little further down. If I'm wrong and you haven't really made sure that your cable and video card are both good separate from this monitor, stop and check them first... If you have a Ferrite bead it's probably a good idea to add one to your cable if it doesn't have one and check again.
I'm gonna go deep to answer this for you, because you have already braved tearing down a monitor to work on a fix and I respect that so you should have as much info as I can give you about it... I'll include some links to a tool or two also, if you really want to go for a fix though, do yourself a huge favor, go look up how to properly and safely discharge a capacitor and read the warnings and methods.
Disclaimer: Going past that casing is a risk and it can hurt or kill you depending on the voltage and you need to not only be aware that of that but you need to understand how to prevent it. You follow any of this into action, it's on you, and I'm a hobbyist not an engineer so my advice and insight here is just what I'd share with a freind and probably not perfect. I will avoid the math bit...
So basically the signals (coming in from the monitor cable) which are eventually directed to the pixels are controlled by an incoming digital information flow that is to components dependent on a very stable power condition.
The power signal and digital signal decoding hardware gets really shitty about any interference with its power and about any noise or EMI (electromagnetic interference). The problem here is that monitors require a filtering system for their power supply boards to produce the needed stable power. Stable power supplies which by their nature also produce a low level EMI that can screw up the digital information signal.
That tape you have there covers one or the other internal region of the monitor to shield either output of, or interferance from, EMI. So yeah it could be the issue, and lines are often caused by signal noise if not from the source ... But they are also caused by (and more often in my experience) power signal distortion. That is, the power frequency of the supply (or its flatness if it is a DC region of the circuit) is not correct for the digital signal. You can buy either Cooper foil or Faraday Tape cheap on Amazon to replace or patch the existing shield. Mass production electronics use the cheap shit, copper shielding tape is much better for this purpose and since your in there I would consider the 8 bucks to be sure. Just stick it right on top of what you have there, and patch the holes in your current shield with it, it's conductive so don't short anything out with it.
There are three componemts to the power circuit that can fuck up your signal... Make sure you are aware of the safe discharge of the capacitors bit. First: the most often failed part in all of modern electronics: the capacitors. Almost always (but not quite 100%) a capacitor is the problem. The issue is that in this case they aren't "blown" so they need tested or replaced all together. testing and calculating the capacitors is a topic outside the scope of this post (that has to do with a series of calculus equations and the reletive measurmemts of the parts) so I would get the microfarads from the side of all of the capacitors and order a capacitor kit for 20 bucks. If you don't know how, YouTube how to solder. Use Flux.
Replaced caps and replaced sheilding will almost certainly fix it if it's the monitor.
If it doesn't, and your still with fighting this out with the monitor to get it working its a bit of a steep climb.. But replacing the coils with proper values after performing power supply filtering eqasions to determine coil values and resistors based on ohms could rebuild it... At that point though I would buy a new one, caps are easy, shielding is easy, don't. Fucking. Shock. Yourself. For. Gods. Sake! The power caps present a danger to you.
It is entirely possible. Indeed, likely. AM and SSB bleeds into analog circuits pretty easily.
I want to advise you of something: The microphone you are using, like all electronic devices, falls under Part 15 of the FCC rules. You may have seen this warning on electronic devices:
>This device complies with part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) This device may not cause harmful interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.
What you are experiencing is "interference that may cause undesired operation".
I encourage you to contact the operator. The ham radio community expects operators to make an effort toward resolving these problems, and he may be able to provide technical assistance, or coordinate usage to avoid the problems you are experiencing. That being said, you need to understand that when there is interference between a licensed radio station and an non-licensed, Part 15 device like your microphone, the legal responsibility for resolving that interference falls on the owner of the Part 15 device: You.
As others have said, it is very likely that a a couple ferrite chokes around the microphone wire will remove all/most of the unwanted noise. You've probably seen such chokes on various cables. They are the large, round bumps a few inches from the end of the cable. You'll want to install yours as close to the microphone, and as close to the end of the USB cable as possible.
If ferrite chokes don't work, an alternative microphone might work better. A wireless mic is unlikely to pick up this kind of interference.
But again, contact the operator. Make note of the exact time that you're picking up the interference, and be ready to help diagnose the issue. It might only be occurring on one band, and he might be willing to coordinate with you about using that particular band.
Reached out to fitcamx support and they told me to get this. I was thinking of a same approach so this makes sense. Am trying it as soon as I receive it!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWCSNW9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I had a kind of similar problem with my shifter, but it may not be the same issue you're experiencing.
In my case, it was related to my cockpit. If I had the shifter mounted on the aluminum cockpit, I couldn't run the calibration successfully, and the shifter would randomly mis-read gears. For me, the most common was usually intermittently reading neutral when I was in 4th. This obviously causes major issues in-game.
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I found that if I disconnected my shifter from the metal cockpit chassis, I could successfully run the calibration, and the shifter appeared to behave normally. It became erratic again the second I attached it to my metal cockpit.
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I wound up ordering some clip-on ferrite cores from amazon. Clipped 2 to each end of the cable that connects the shifter to the wheel base, and that completely solved my issue.
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Here are the ones I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWCSNW9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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https://www.amazon.com/Cedmon-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B07CWCSNW9
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Be careful how deep you cut, also be sure the unit is unplugged, of course.
If you end up needing to replace the ferrite core they make clip on's. https://www.amazon.com/Cedmon-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B07CWCSNW9
I highly recommend keeping ferrite cores in tact with high power WiFi equipment powered by switching power supplies.
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ceedmon 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI E… | - | - | 4.1/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
UPDATE .. The counterpoise helped a bit. Then I grounded the chassis of the radio as Dave Casler suggested and that helped even more. The CMC should arrive later this week, which will probably eliminate it completely, but I also ordered a ferrite ring kit from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWCSNW9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This link is from amazon, but has plenty of pictures you can use:
https://www.amazon.com/Cedmon-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B07CWCSNW9
Well, its definitely where/how its plugged in. Is it in both speakers? You could try something cheap like a ferrite core RFI/EMI noise suppressor (https://www.amazon.com/Cedmon-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B07CWCSNW9/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=powerline+noise+filter&qid=1608135268&sr=8-4) or an actual power conditioner (https://www.amazon.com/Furman-SS6B-Power-Conditioner/dp/B0002D017M)
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Edit: Sorry, didnt see you were in Europe. This power conditioner is really highly rated and cheap.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tacima-6-Way-Mains-Conditioner-black/dp/B00UB0G4DQ
Get a usb cable with built in ferrite cores or some clamp on style ones to see if that helps. It won’t address radiated (through the air) emi much but it can help with conducted (through a wire).
What really worries me though is that the power supply from the computer should already do some significant filtering and regulation. If might be worth putting something like this USB Power Meter on that port and see if you can see what happens when that light switch is used.
Finally, something like a line conditioning UPS could be in order. Example here
it looks like you have some RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) going on.get some ferrite cores like these
https://www.amazon.com/Cedmon-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B07CWCSNW9/
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put one on the cable going into the router, and wrap the power cord to the router around another - This will help suppress any stray electromagnetic interference getting into the router, and probably solve the issue
Whatchu mean? A transformer at the end?
Oh, looks just like a Ferrite Ring, so what? Can get a pack of 20 for ten bucks.
And there's also this and this and this that probably do a better job anyway. I'd trust a high quality jensen transformer over some ferrite ring anyday.
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I mean all bashing aside, they do look like super nice cables. Tho I'm hesitant to trust a brand that just started over Mogami or Canare or Gepco or Analysis Plus or any of the big names.
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