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It can be hard to tell when theyre dehydrated, or just being wrinkly boys. I'd like to hear someone else opinion on it, but she does look dehydrated to my uneducated eye.
The temps are a tad on the high side, you want to stick to 72-75f as much as possible, although as long as its not getting over 80f it's probably not an issue. Are you using a thermostat to control the heater? With any heating device for reptiles, you absolutely *need to have them hooked up to thermostats like this to ensure your not overheating or burning your animals.
Also, just a word of advice, you really should ditch the red heat lamp.
Red (and to some extent the blue/purple) "nighttime" heat lamps are actually pretty harmful to reptiles. In a nutshell, they can still absolutely see the light as light, so it disturbs their day/night cycle. They need absolute darkness at night. Their eyes also wont react to red light properly, giving it the possibility of burning their eyes out.
You should switch it to a ceramic heat emitter, or deep heat projector. Both of which emit zero light, which is necessary for all reptiles at night.
I know The reptile carpet isn’t the best for them and I’m working to get a bio build going as soon as I can, hopefully in the next couple months! I don’t want him getting his toes hurt on the carpet 🥺
I’ve got a CHE going almost 24/7, it keeps the air temps around 75 at the lowest (it averages 55-60 degrees indoors in my current situation so it’s the best I can do to combat that cold!)
I have a heat mat to supplement the CHE that’s controlled via this heat mat controller too, set to turn on at 88 and turn off at 91 degrees.
I recently learned they need a solid back wall to feel more secure so that’s the foam rock wall added in the back as of today!
I appreciate any points and tips!
Sounds good, I would try switching to a coconut husk of some sort as it will hold the humidity way better (I prefer eco earth) and a thermostat regulates temperature (a thermometer measures it). So you plug your lamps/heat mats into the the thermostat and place the thermostat probe in your enclosure, and it will regulate the heat by turning the lights/mat/heat emitter, etc on and off to stay at a consistent temperature. Otherwise they could run too hot and injure your snake. Here is an affordable one many people use - [link]
Great! Yeah it looks smaller than it is haha. With the 55 make sure you have lots of plants and stuff to kind of make it not feel so open. As for bioactive I personally don’t but I know two people who have gotten kits/supplies from Josh’s Frogs.
Jumpstart thermostats work good on a budget, I really like this one from amazon [link]
Yeah! This is the one I have :) Good luck with your hedgie!
Just make sure no matter what option you go with, have it hooked up to a thermostat like this one so you won't risk overheating/burning your little guy
You said "temperature controlled" in the title, but then you mention checking the temperature every day... I get wanting to look, I remove the velcroed on heating mat on mine every day to peek at the progress too, but if you're actually worried that it's not working right, here's how I control mine:
I just put the suction cup w/ the temperature probe on the side of the jar and I can read the temperature from the hanging display. Not sure if something like that might help if you're uncertain of how it's maintaining itself.
I've used them for my snake in the past, tried using my seedling pad but it will get too hot so you need a thermostat. I plan to build a controller with an arduino and a smart plug but might just get one of those thermostats instead,, probably this one
The heat mat is preferred, since leopard geckos absorb heat for digestion thru their tummies only. For all my tanks i use the zoo med reptitherm heat pads. You will want one that takes up between 1/4 and 1/3 of the bottom of the tank. I hook all mine up to one of these...Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F [link] i suggest also buying the heat pad off amazon as well, you will pay AT LEAST double if you buy at a brick and mortar store. As for the liner i just go to walmart and buy my liner there in the kitchen section.
Yep! I have the carpet and all you need to do is tweak the temperature a bit so it’s as warm as it needs to be on top; I recommend also getting an infrared thermometer gun to easily check surface temperatures.
I’m referring to thermostats with probes, which I’ll link here: [link]
The probe will go under the carpet in the middle of the heat mat, and then use the heat gun or any meat thermometer or surface thermometer to check the heat on top of the carpet, and then tweak the temperature the thermostat is at to match around 90 F/30 C on the warm side (on top of the carpet).
Here's the one I have :)
BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Breeding Incubation Greenhouse, 40-108°F, 8.3A 1000W ETL Listed [link]
They all would actually use the same thing to control the temperature called a thermostat like this
To use it, you wourd put the sensor probe as close to the heatsorce as you can, then plug the thermostat into the wall and choose the temperature you want it to maintain, and finally plug the heating device into the thermostat.
A heat mat on the bottom won't do much in a bioactive setup, the heat wouldn't penetrate the substrate. I know some people stick a heat pad on the side of the enclosure so they have a warm patch they can hang out on, but regardless a thermostat is really a necessity with any heat source - both to protect the animal from burns and yourself (unregulated heat sources can be fire hazards). With heat mats you can use a cheap on/off thermostat - ones like these will work ok and are only about 17 bucks (this is all assuming you're in the US of course).
There are off the shelf products you can find where you plug one end into the wall and the other into your hot plate and it does all that temperature control for you.
Here's one example (I'm not recommending this one, it's just the first one I found.): [link]
Staying fired up is not a problem. Some cresties do it more than others, but its really not of any significant health wise. If hes doing it more recently it could just mean he's freshly shed, or just the change in season.
I would recommend you get some sort of heating device for during the night. getting down to the 60s is really low, and is probably why he's not growing much. 72-75 is the optimal temperature, a night time drop is not needed. You will need something that doesn't produce any light, and to have a thermostat hooked up to ensure it doesn't overheat or burn him. A 40w ceramic heat emitter or deep heat projector are two good choices for something that emits heat but no light, and something like this is a good choice for an affordable thermostat
This one works very well too if you just need it for heating
^^^ oh and you’ll need a thermostat for the heat mat, I would suggest this one or something similar
Agree that a thermostat is necessary. Needed to regulate the warm side/heat mat. /u/lilcuzo I have this one and it works well ($19).
This should also do the same thing
For the thermostat, I would get this thermostat (or really anything that looks like that. There’s a lot that are the same thing, just with different brands stamped on the front).
Other suggestions I have are get rid of the red light and replace it with something else. I couldn’t tell you what, but you could probably get some pretty good answers if you made another thread asking about it. I see that you said you plan to get a 20 gallon, and I encourage you to get one as soon as possible. I would also recommend some more cover/climbing space, such as wood and plants :)
Hm, how cold does the room get? If it's only a little too cold then I'd recommend getting something like a 25w ceramic heat emitter to replace the heat lamp with. They're really useful because they don't emit any light so they can be kept on at night without disturbing their day night cycle, and are pretty cheap and last forever. If it's really cold then maybe a 45w ceramic heat emitter.
But whatever you end up getting, you should hook it up to a thermostat like this one so you don't have to worry about it overheating.
With this you just put the probe in the tank near the heated area, plug the thermostat into the wall, then plug the heater into the thermostat. You set a temperature (problem around 78-80f as that's the absolute hottest you wourd want it to get), then the thermostat turns the heater on and off to maintain that temperature. IIRC that specific one waits to get 3 degrees colder than the set temperature to turn back on so its keeps a pretty constant temperature.
Hopefully the link works x’D thermostat
This is the exact same one I have and am still using actively!
Hmm... and does she look normal in coloration? Or does she look off to you? Duller/darker/flabby?
This is the thermostat I use. Since you ordered a che, you no longer need the iridescent bulb.
This is the thermostat I use and it’s been working great! You just plug your UTH into it and it has a wired probe you put into your tank. Once your tank reaches the temperature you set, it automatically shuts it off. And turns it back on when the temperature drops below.
For some reason the link is not posting?
Well go on amazon and just search “century heat mat thermostat”
your heat mat should be sticky, stick the probe to the sticky part and place the mat onto the warm side of the tank
you should also have a thermostat, ill link mine below. you just adjust that temperature to 89/90°f and plug the mat into the thermostat.
im unsure about the extension/ outlet question but mines on an extension but not a cord? not sure its name but just the things that give extra outlets but has no cord. and its been working fine for my girl for the past few months
I wouldn't even bother with the uth. Its unnecessary and poses as a bigger risk of burns and fires. A che on one side with a thermostat will be more than enough. If the cool side is a bit too cold, move the lamp over closer towards it until the cool side is in a good range. This way you only need one thermostat, one heat source. For day night cycle if you don't have ambient lighting in the room, a standard led strip or light works great. For the thermostat that one you linked works but honestly I recommend this one since you don't need the cooling features of the other. The lamp you linked also works wonderfully but you might need a higher wattage bulb. Ceramics tend to run a bit on the cooler side. I use a 75w for my ksbs and stack up for a hotter hot spot up top.
For hides and stuff I recommend cork bark. Lots of it and stacking it. They love to climb but they do need a rough large surface to prevent falling since they're a bit bad at climbing.
You put heating mats on the under side of the enclosure so your snake won’t come into direct contact with it. It’s important to also have a thermometer so the pad doesn’t get too hot.
Here’s the link for the one I use. I keep it set at 88-90 degrees.
BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Breeding Incubation Greenhouse, 40-108°F, 8.3A 1000W ETL Listed [link]
Could you please send me a link or give more specific search terms? I want to make sure I'm buying the right thing here:
Something like this should work just fine. Put the temperature probe in the tank above the heat mat/ in the warm hide, plug the heat mat into the thermostat and the thermostat into the wall. Then set your preferred temperature (I keep my leopard gecko at 90/91 Fahrenheit) and you’re good to go! heat mat thermostat
Get a new heating mat and a thermostat for it to regulate the temperature. I recommend this thermostat: www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ctnpFb7A1JKAH - The red light can still be seen as a daytime light and geckos need a day/night cycle
Just watch your temps. My cool side stays at about 80 with the ceramic heater set to 90 on the warm side. Keep a thermostat on both sides so you can watch your ranges.
Edit: Here's the thermostat. I bought two, no issues so far: [link]
I use this one If you use a different one, try to find one specifically for reptiles or small animals.
There is but you won't be happy with it
You can get one of those seed germination thermostats. I have one as a spare for a quarantine tub but I don't care for how they fluctuate heat
Here is an example from Amazon
Get a thermometer controller (like this one) from Amazon. You can choose what temperature range to set it at and will shut off the heat mat once it reaches that upper end of the range you choose then kick it on once it drops down.
Don’t use a screen lid, you’ll lose all your humidity.
Well you could also buy an outlet adapter
I know, these things add up but I'm unable to find anything on amazon with a European outlet. If you look on amazon, look up "zoo-med heating pad" and "heating pad thermostat" and it should ship with the proper plugs
Look into thermostats for seed germination! That is what mine is intended for, but it wasn't marketed exclusovely toward reptiles. They all do the same thing, make sure there's a probe and you're all good. Maybe check specialty garden shops and things around that nature?
Here is the Amazon link to the one my Leo has had for a few months: [link]
Yeah, it’s a necessity. I use ones from Amazon, but be aware that these really only work for UTHs (not other types of heating) and need to be double checked regularly with a temperature gun.
This is the thermostat I have: [link]
I saw it recommended on a thread here, so hopefully it’s okay! If need be I’ll go up to something fancier, but most people seem to use something along those lines?
Is the thermostat for a under the tank heater? I have uth for my snakes. I ordered thermostats off of amazon, they work great. You just plug the heater into the thermostat, set what you want the temp to be, and then put the probe above the heater. Temp might be a couple of degrees above or below what you set it to be. I currently have 4 of them and couldn’t be happier.
Century Digital Heat Mat... [link]
So I use a ceramic bulb (because I didn't wan't light to mess with the day/night cycle). and I have this automatic thermostat controller which I have set to keep it around 74 in her enclosure. This set up seems to be working well.
Because night time is probably when it's getting cold in your house you'll need a ceramic bulb or another heat bulb meant for nighttime. So the UVB bulb probably isn't worth messing with.
After the first time that it happened I raised it by putting those Jenga wood blocks at the corners. The thermostat is [link] . Also the first one I think burned my wood a bit because my little brother accidentally sat on it and bent it a little so I guess it started unsticking because of that, so I got the second one which never came off and worked well. I just stick the UTH by just sticking them on like normal. After the first one that broke I made sure to try to stick these new ones on really good, but this one still peeled off. The probe is half way in the substrate.
Immediately: CHE for heat ($10), thermostat to control heat ($20), digital thermometer/hydrometer ($10).
Soon: larger water dish, more hides, fresh substrate.
Use a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) for heat. Found cheaper on amazon than at a pet store. Doesn't emit light, probably the best source of heat and provides a better ambient temp than a UTH can. UTH's seem to only work well if the room your snake in is already at like 75 degrees.
All heat sources should be tied to a thermostat -- this regulates the heat so you don't fry/overheat your snake. Try this for $18.
Get a digital thermometer + hydrometer; digital are more accurate and you want to stay away from anything with an adhesive (most analogs have this). Try this for $10.
Get a water dish big enough for that snake to soak in. Search the kitchen section of a store -- possibly cheaper than a $20 dog bowl.
Cardboard hides are fine; they do the job. Give snake another on the other end of the cage. Toss them if they become soiled or mold. Poptart boxes do the trick at my house.
If you want to replace that substrate, aspen works fine. If you don't have the cash for that, paper towels also work.
pet stores are actually known to NOT (or rarely) carry thermostats, which is one of the reasons why a lot of people don't know you need them.
you can buy them on amazon, pay for fast shipping (this one is widely used)
same for the gun, any cheap one is fine (i use this one)
if you can only get one, definitely get the thermostat as it's one of the most important things
so at petsmart just pick up hides and the aspen bedding. ideally both hides should be the same. get a hide that looks pretty small! you would be surprised at how small my hides are compared to how big my snake is. they can really squeeze in there and feel secure. if the hide is too big, it won't make them feel safe.
i would recommend joining this forum, there are a ton of people there who have been keeping snakes 10+ years who can better answer your questions.
You can get a thermostat like this to use with your heat lamp so that it stays just the right temperature all the time!
Heat mats should always be used with a digital thermostat, with the probe right next to the mat (both under the enclosure). That way you will never get a runaway overheat situation.
Some people get a pretty small wattage mat so it just never gets very hot. But it's safer and better for the snake if all heat sources are (each) regulated by their own thermostat.
Here is my favorite:
Under 20 bucks and easy to set up.
Sure brotha, you have the dome and a heat mat already so heat mat control [link]
Tent is called a propagation tent used for cuttings [link]
Similar to this one but mines different brand and a bit taller ill probably add racks once i get the hang of things.
This control i use for all 3 cannabis tents and am using in my mush tent but i will only have the humidifier hooked up but i think itll be important also noting the temperature atleast for when i need to introduce more oxygen.
Humidifier sits outside and blown in through the tents ac port [link] when i need more oxygen ill probably just have a small desk fan on a 3-5 min timer twice a day
I will have a small water proof led light at 12on/12off during fruiting but i have yet to decide on which one. Since i might be adding racks later 🤔 ill be deciding by growing a few batches with light and no light to see the differences. No light means i can do 8 of those seed trays BUT thats my mind running before i have yet to crawl.
If you have any tips or observation on the growing/set up, feel free
I use this one [link]
It's cheap and I haven't had a single issue in over six months of constant use.
Slow money is better than no money! :)
Sorry for the delayed response. Here's some of my recommendations:
Jumpstart/Century Pulse Thermostat - $17 - Super reliable and cheap!
Slightly cheaper 'Repti Zoo' Pulse Thermostat - $16 I've had this one previously, the brand was different but it's the same model. I'd only choose this over the jumpstart if you are forced to - due to stocking issues etc.
- I can't seem to find many of the ones that we have in the UK on the Amazon US site, but Id' 100% recommend the jumpstart.
Also, you're gonna need two of them. I've heard of people using this product here ($36) to control two at once. Might be worth looking in to :-)
You need a thermostat. Something like this [link]
Many people will argue that you should only get the super expensive very reliable ones, but I have one similar to that and haven't had a problem with it. You plug your mat into the thermostat and put the thermostat probe near the heat mat. My probe is on the inside of the tank right on top of where the heat mat is. Then you set the thermostat to your desired temp. The thermostat will regulate the heat.
(Also, just in case, the heat mat goes on the outside of the tank)
Alternatively you could get a dimmable heat lamp [link]
Then put a 50w-75w heat basking bulb in that. Or you could put something like a 100w CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) in it. Use the dimmer switch to turn it down however much you need. Use it with a hygrometer and an infrared temperature gun like this [link]
I can't speak for that particular model, but I use these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM They're cheap and reliable. The Jumpstart ones are good too but cost a smidge more. It's normal for the thermostat to turn on and off. The turning on and off is how it maintains the temperature. Heat mats don't have much of an effect on the ambient temperatures. If you need to get the ambient temp up, you'll need to either raise the temp of the actual room or put some heating lamps in.
This one is great: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM I have like 6 of them lol
This one is also good but a bit more expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-Germination-MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_4?crid=BMVN6UBALRFM&dchild=1&keywords=jumpstart+thermostat&qid=1624363426&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=jumpstart+therm%2Clawngarden%2C178&sr=1-4
There are professional options such as VE, Freedom Breeder and Herpstat but those will run 100-250+.
Humidity ranges are pretty flexible as long as it doesn't get super low (e.g. <20%) or super high (>50%) If it's low, you can give her a humidity hide. If it's on the higher side, you may need to get a dehumidifier and try to lower the ambient humidity a bit.
Paper moist (not dripping wet). Keep sealed in ziplock in cabinet or top of fridge.
The heat mat is good. But you will kill everything if you don't have it with a temp sensor/probe.
Best Investment I've made aside from Quantum LEDs, and Ph/PPM Pens: This model is designed for heating (aquarium heater/aeroponic/cloning/heat mat/lights). I maintain 75 F and stick the probe into whatever medium I'm using (Rockwool, Soil, Sponge). The sensor will click off at 75 F and turn back on around 73 F. I use large tupperwear for a DIY dome over whatever I'm germinating on the heat mat.
Alternatively, this model maintains temp by cooling. You want to hook up to Fans/Exhaust/AC to this model.
This one for humidifier/dehumidifier
I would recommend switching to a direct heat source like a ceramic heat lamp with a temperature reader (see below suggestion). Tower heaters are best not left unattended for long periods of time since they're a fire hazard (heat lamps are too, but run less risk). Tower heaters in my experience tend to also malfunction or stop working after a few years depending on brand since they want you to have to buy a new one.
Recommended temperature control to plug a ceramic heat lamp into: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=TEMPERATURE+CONTROL+HEDGEHOG+CAGE&qid=1620257134&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNDBDMUROWVhHNVg3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDA2Mzc5RTRaMkNMSVFORjNIJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4ODY2MTQxMTQ4V0M5T1dCSVE5JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat... [link] this is the thermostat i use its always worked very well, yes i spray my humid hide once a day with a spray bottle
Hot side should be high 80's. Cold side works fine at low to mid 70's.
All heat sources need to be on a thermostat or you will constantly fight it to keep it from getting too hot or not hot enough. Here is my favorite:
A 50 gallon enclosure is fine for even a young noodle, provide there is lots of clutter and plants (fake is just fine) and at least 2 hides. Little snakes like little hides.
If there is no thermostat, the heat lamp will want to get too hot if the house is warm, and too cold if the house is cold. A thermostat is safer and far easier for the keeper. It makes it a "set it and forget it" deal. This is my favorite since it's easy, inexpensive and very effective:
Something like this [link]
BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat... [link]
You could also use a separate controller. I do this in a 150gal tanks with three heaters so they all come on and off at the same time plus I have backup. The controller is set to 78 and each heater is set to about 80 as a backup. I understand that this is an additional cost, but it is also a great piece of mind.
First of all, put the tank on the floor rather than perching it on the microwave.
Whatever heat source you has MUST be regulated, period. There's no ifs ands or buts about it. I'm not sure where you heard the term 'desert ball python', but that's not actually a thing. You also need to monitor your humidity as BPs take most of their fluid intake via their environment rather than via drinking.
A thermostat is under 20 bucks:
That will turn your heat source off/on to keep a consistent temp - and as folks have already said, you want the heat source at one end, not in the middle - ball pythons require a heating gradient so that they can regulate their temp as they need.
Thermometer/hydrometer can be had for very cheap as well:
I'm not trying to be a dick here, but if you got the snake as a 'gift' and are not in a position to get the things that the snake needs, you'd be better off rehoming him/her. Substrate needs to be purchased and changed regularly. Feeding. If you're using heat lamps, those bulbs add up (and the fixtures tend to break too).
Further to not trying to be a dick...you took him to the vet but can't afford a thermostat for 20 bucks? My friend, this post screams 'RED FLAG' left and right. Please do the right thing by your animal.
And feel free with the questions. That's what we're here for.
85'ish (F) on the warm end of the enclosure. Middle 70's on the cool end. All heating devices should be on their own thermostat. Here is my favorite:
At least two hides (one on each end). They prefer a hide that is not too big. The enclosure has to be very very secure. They are super duper escape artists. The two common escape methods are to push the screen top loose on a corner (so the top needs some kind of latch, or lock, or clip, or a hefty book on each corner), and wiggle out through the little hole(s) for the cords.
They appreciate plenty of plants and vines and sticks to explore. They don't particularly like open spaces.
A frozen/thawed mouse every 10 days should be about the right feeding schedule unless he is thin. It is very helpful to weigh your snake monthly to make sure they are healthy and thriving.
85 F (29-30C)
Upper limit low 90's F (33-34C)
Ceramic heating element?
Whatever it is, it should be regulated by a digital thermostat. Without a thermostat, any heating device can cause a dangerous overheat situation. Here's my favorite:
Feel free with the questions. We're all here to help the snakes out.
A 60 watt works pretty good. 100 watts in not crazy.
It should be on a digital thermostat with the probe securely mounted right in the hot spot.
Here's my favorite:
Absolutely do not trust the suction cup to keep it mounted where it belongs. Zip tie it to a branch or glue it with hot melt to something solid. No tape inside the enclosure.
Feel free with the questions, that's what we're here for.
this is what I went with.
That should help you regulate the temperature better.
On top of the cage, you use it exactly as if it was a heat lamp it just produces no light. Considering your temperatures I'd go for a 25, maybe 50w. But you have to make sure you have it hooked up to a thermostat like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_5?crid=20NW6DLVFTNRQ&dchild=1&keywords=reptile+thermostat&qid=1613978157&sprefix=reptile+thermo%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-5)
Buy this temp regulator. You basically set it right on the pad and then set the temp for 90F.
As noted, no handling and no feeding for two full weeks. Start small, just as you suggested.
A thermostat is 100 times better than a rheostat. The rheostat is dumb and can't account for changes in room temperature. Here's my favorite:
Link to thermostat!!
Link to hygrometer!!
Also I really liked this guys video on setting up an enclosure, I followed it and it’s how I set up mine. But if you don’t struggle with humidity, I wouldn’t do the hvac tape he mentions. Everything else I agree with completely and have worked for me since
BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Breeding Incubation Greenhouse, 40-108°F, 8.3A 1000W $18.99
AmazonBasics 500-Watt Ceramic Small Space Personal Mini Heater $21.49
This combination works great to keep a small bathroom at a constant temperature.
However, I am very cautious about this being a potential ignition source. The heater's on the floor away from everything. I am very careful to always seal any containers of alcohol and have the ventilation fan going for the brief periods they are in use. I keep multiple separate fire extinguishers within four steps.
this one is what I use... it’s decent it only sets a maximum heat but I just set it for 79F because I’m more worried about being too hot, it never drops below 73f.
I appreciate the tips! Got the BD-Link Digital Thermometer and used this Etekcity Infared Thermometer to verify the temp being put out by the heat mat. I was asking u/pokeplants if he used a digital thermo for his heat mat since he’s also using plastic totes. Without the thermo regulator they advertise a range of 98-118 degrees! Way too hot for a corn.
At first heated blanket, it worked, but it didn't get hot enough without me building an inoculation chamber. I was too worried about not doing the temp right, so I broke down and got over my broke boi tek and got a heater and temp controller.
this temp controller was the cheapest available and it works just fine.
I think it’s just an on/off, however several of the reviews were from happy ball python owners so I’m going to give it a shot!
Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108Â°F [link] I got this one on Amazon, and it’s worked wonderfully for me so far!
Try one of these, right at 80 is decent, but a thermostat will prevent it getting any lower. I notice that my crabs are more active in the mid 80 range.
Get one of these for each bulb. You can set the max temperature and they'll automatically turn off if/when they get too hot.
Is this what you mean? People say they use it for bulbs and not just mats
thermostat you just plug in the heater to the thermostat and put the probe in the water
The exact website and product I ordered is here. They’re out of the 50w right now unfortunately but the 80w works better for 40gal+ tanks. And please remember, you absolutely shouldn’t use a DHP without a dimming thermostat (I bought this one off of Amazon) because without a dimming thermostat you can burn your gecko.
It’s super important you get one ASAP. They’re not too expensive on amazon. I also noticed you don’t have a heat mat, which can be a little more beneficial in certain aspects than lamps. I’ll link a couple below so you know what to look for!
This is the thermostat I use, $20 on amazon
Just check amazon, plenty of options, I just picked this one myself and it seems to work within about 2 degrees.
You can find thermostats on Amazon marketed for use with heat mats to germinate seedlings, so I see no reason why it wouldn't work for your uses.
Heat mat (several sizes)
I use a thermostat with heat mat. I found this thermostat on Amazon, it's just under $20. [link]
I've had it for a year and it's still going strong!
I ordered a 5x5 heat mat from ebay.
You can order a temperature controller for about $18 on amazon to turn it to the desired temp.
We use this one for the heat pad, you set it at the temp you want and it turns the heating pad on and off depending on if it gets too cool or too hot.
And then we use this one just to monitor visually the temp and humidity of the environment. So far we’ve had no issues and they’re both fairly inexpensive.
Good luck with everything!
I've used the ones you're posting about..they're cheap and rebranded often.
Example of the one I tried:
I haven't had great success or accuracy with them, especially with my hedgehogs(air temp). But just looking on Amazon you can see that there's 3-4 or more brands that use the same exact thermostat.
I switched to using inkbirds for all my animals except for my corn snake and they work better. They're more expensive, though. I use this zoomed for my corn: [link]
Stay away from the cheap store brand ones and especially the exoterra ones. The exoterra ones have analog temperature dials and the probes are huge and not accurate.
Ohhh the thermostat. [link]