Maybe Command hooks if it has those holes at the end
Indeed. Those little sticky, removable damage-free hooks are extra handy for hanging things like respirators.. also EHMRs, goggles, hats, keys, and all the other stuff you'll want to grab when heading out. I have way too many of them on the wall by my front door, lol.
These work perfectly. I have used them for years with zero damage, popcorn ceiling included.
Fine 2 of these
Personally I would take off the thing and use similar 3m velcro sticky things. Depending on the weight you need 2-4 of them. But no holes and they work well.
I use command strips
you just stick them around the lid and use plant ties. It allows you to lift the plant up for changing buckets/nutes. I've used scrog before but I found it a pain to work around.
It's nowhere near as good as a wireless setup, but it's a great option if you can't go wireless. It can be tricky to get it setup correctly so I would advise against using the adhesive hooks that come with then. Command strip hooks do the job just as well and are much easier to remove if you need to make adjustments. https://www.amazon.com/Command-Damage-Free-Small-without-Packaging/dp/B0751TRS6Y/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_3/132-3517570-4357667?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0751TRS6Y
You also need to use the turn signal app if you use the pulley system as your cable will get tangled.
I used mine as a "crown molding" trim around the room, https://imgur.com/qiUhxeT doesn't eat up the real estate on the ground level and looks pretty sweet. I used command hooks for years, your walls are smooth and should be just fine from weight (currently im using a small nail though as a permanent solution since its my house).
Command GP067-16NA Small Wire, 16-Hooks, 24-Strips, Organize Damage-Free, Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751TRS6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26VJE75J00QR3S6YP1S2
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
Command GP067-16NA, White, Easy to Open Packaging… | $14.98 | $14.98 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
Sure! These are the exact ones I used, then some fishing line (which is also how I hung the falling bomb).
Got them at Walmart but it looks like Amazon has them as well 👌
We use these. Command Small Wire Hooks, 16-Hooks, 24-Strips, Organize Damage-Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751TRS6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZZ628JPCHN3KXD8X6BTF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
•40 gal tank with mesh wire top - as long as it is the 40 gallon BREEDER tank it is good. There is a difference in the layout and breeder allows more room for reptiles to move around.
•10uvb t8 tube light that covers about 80% the length of the tank - these need to be changed roughly every 6 months and you can find them cheaper online than in pet stores. i ordered the hood online from lightyourreptiles and was able to mount it inside the tank using 3M hooks. the mesh top of the tank actually filters out the UVB so mounting it inside will be better.
~~•zoo med under tank heater (hoping to adhere it to the side of the tank so it doesnt burn my stand)~~ - bearded dragons cannot sense heat from below them. they do not need this or any type of heater rocks. because they can't feel the heat from below they can actually get burned.
•3D Desert Stone background from Thrive - not necessary for your bearded dragon, but if you like the way it looks there is no harm in it.
• Desert look tank carpet from Thrive - substrate options vary based on what you prefer. some are worse than others. (sand is bad). the carpet looks nice, but don't forget you need to take it out to clean when they poop on it, and eventually be replaced. After much trial and error I found that tile works best for me. I picked out a rough textured one form a hardware store, and some of them can cut the pieces for you. It makes it easy to take out individual pieces to clean if necessary.
•food/water dishes (medium rock looking ones from Thrive) - water is fine to have in the tank if you live in a low humidity area. and babies will a lot of times lay in the water dish (and poop in it too). but double check humidity levels, if they get too high you have to take the water dish out. you can spray them outside of the tank or give them baths to get them to drink. they also get a lot of moisture from the greens they eat.
•a medium sized hideaway - you may have to upgrade as they get bigger, but any kind of hide for them is good.
•a sterilized piece of large driftwood for the basking about 5in from top of tank - if using as a basking log make sure to follow the recommendations for the basking light on how far to have from the lamp.
•a large mesh hammock from zoo med - my boy loves his hammock, he is on it pretty much all day.
•digital thermometer with probe - yes
My questions about this:
•Will the uth burn my background or cause it not to heat the tank properly? UTH is useless to bearded dragons as they can't detect heat underneath them.
•Can I place the light directly on the wire mesh top without issues? - basking light is fine, UVB will be filtered out by mesh so mount that inside if you can.
•Will the light and heater keep my tank warm enough? My room is about 68-70°F. - temp probe will help you figure out how warm it is in there. if it looks to be too warm in the tank you have to raise the basking light further up. a lamp stand helps with that.
Food:
•small crickets w food for gutloading - if you are getting a baby they will eat a lot of crickets. make sure you are feeding them crickets no bigger than the pace between their eyes. you can purchase them in bulk online through various places that allow you to choose the sizes. They come out to be a lot cheaper that way. pick up a 10 gallon tank to keep them in with a top if you choose to go the bulk route, (otherwise a cricket keeper works if you will have less than 100 at a time). petco often has a $1 per gallon sale, or people sell/give away tanks on craiglist. and a bug vacuum is a lifesaver for escapees.
•vac pack of dubia roaches (couldnt find fresh in my area) - if you are comfortable with live roaches and they are allowed to be sold in your state you can order them online and start your own colony. this ends up being the most cost efficient way to feed your reptiles.
•Calcium powder - you will also need multivitamin powder. calcium powder (with D3) is to be used 2-3 times per week. switch off which days you use calcium and which you use multivitamins.
My questions:
•What brand is best for gutloading and what brand of calcium powder should I get? I just want to make sure I'm getting good quality for my buddy. - i never really saw a difference with most brands. I just grab what the pet store has on the shelf. Make sure you have calcium powder with D3.
Bringing my little buddy home:
•I'll be putting a piece of tshirt that I've worn in the tank to get him used to my scent and letting him get used to me/his new home at his own pace. - this is a good method for bonding. babies are very skittish. never try to pick them up by moving your hand behind them or coming from above. always try to stay in front and scoop them up from the front. bonding time when the lights go out is a good time too. you can take them out and let them lay on you while they are falling asleep. I love how they just shut down as soon as it gets dark.
•I plan on hopefully letting him have free roam of my room for at least 15 mins a day to start so he's comfortable in there outside of his tank (fully supervised) - again, babies are very skittish. and very fast. do not let them run free when they are tiny. It would be best to wait until they are much, much larger to do this so they don't get stuck somewhere. They like to get into spaces that they should not go, and like toddlers, if you don't want them to go someplace they will spend every waking moment trying to get there.
My questions:
•What else can I do so he's comfortable in his new home? - always try to approach from where they can see you so they do not mistake you for a predator. don't always try to hold them when you first get them. put your hand in the tank and leave it there, try hand feeding so they see that hand is not scary.
•Is that enough time to start? I just dont want to stress him/rush him to getting used to a bunch of new things at once. - beardies are creatures of habit and do not like a lot of change. when you first bring yours home they will be stressed and darker in color (babies just have darker bellies, but older ones will get dark when stressed). give them space, talk to them, introduce your hand and slowly work on picking them up. since they have different personalities i can't really tell you what they will be like. My first boy had no problem being held the day I brought him home and instantly found a spot on my neck to hang out. But my Noodles was nothing but attitude and puffed her beard at me most of the day for a long while.
​
One thing not on your list that I really recommend is a digital outlet timer. you don't have to worry about getting home too late to turn it off. also, if you find that the temperature falls too low at night (or you can't quite get it high enough during the day) you can get a ceramic heat emitter. this adds on extra heat for them without extra lights. and especially at night because the red lights are not good for them since they can see it with their third eye, so it messes with them sleeping.
Someone else mentioned about feeding them greens. Beautiful Dragons has a great chart on what you can and can't feed them.
Not that I know of. Epoxy is pretty strong and whatever you use to remove it will most likely take off the paint as well. You can always repaint it.
Alternative is to use command hooks. They have the pull down tab that can be easily removed later. But since this is outdoor, heat will be a problem and these will probably fall off on their own after some time. Just buy new one and replace them if that's the case
https://www.amazon.com/Command-Small-16-Hooks-Strips-GP067-16NA/dp/B0751TRS6Y/