What is Reddit's opinion of
Creality 3D Printer NTC Thermistor Temp Sensor 100K for Creality Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro/Ender 3 Neo/Voxelab Aquila (1m/39.4inch)?
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59 reviews of this product found across Reddit:
I had the same problem.
I ordered this Thermistor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714MR5BC)
and just cut the wires and soldered them rather than fishing the wire all the way back to the board. That being said, I think you could if you wanted to.
the allen wrenches that came with the printer will do the trick. easy fix, I find it harder to pull it through the sleeve that wiring it in.
this is what i usedEnder 3 thermistor.
unplug the machine from the wall and from the power supply before doing any work. just an fyi just in case you didnt know prior. good luck
the high pitch sound is signaling an issue with your thermistor cable. unfortunately its a very fragile glass sensor that is screwed into the side of your hot end. they can easily break. fortunately easy to replace and find.
https://www.amazon.ca/Creality-Printer-Thermistor-Sensor-CR-10S/dp/B0714MR5BC
Are you able to hook it up to a PC to read the temperature data via serial, as the error message describes? That will give a better indication of where the problem lies.
A failed thermistor connection at the hot end is very common, and this heater block looks like it's seen quite a bit of adjustment, possibly before it came to you. If this is the issue you might be able to get things going for some amount of time by wiggling wires and tightening or loosening the screw holding the thermistor in place, but ultimately you'd want to just replace the thermistor with something like this.
It's really best if you can confirm the source of the issue before throwing parts at it based on a guess from Reddit though.
There is not a great variety of thermistors used in 3d printers. The most common and the one used in the Aquila is a NTC (negative temperature coefficient) 100K ohm thermistor. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong) Lots of offerings on Amazon. Check these
This is the thermistor I’ve been using and switched.
This
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Thermistor-Sensor-Reprap-Comgrow/dp/B0714MR5BC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=25X5H7NZVWRX4&keywords=thermistor+3d+printer&qid=1650057523&sprefix=thermis%2Caps%2C69&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2ALB3RMN... Is the thermistor I’m using along with the print bed
Comgrow Creality 3D Printer NTC Thermistor Temp Sensor 100K for Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5 / CR-10 / CR-10S. Make sure that the leads are long enough (1 metre).
Creality 3D Printer NTC Thermistor Temp Sensor 100K for Creality Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5 / CR-10 / CR-10S (1m/39.4inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714MR5BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YMN9M6283HKH080ZE661
This is the set I was looking at. If y’all think they will be fine we will just go with it.
Well the best way to check the motherboard is to plug the wire into another one and see if that one works, which would mean buying another motherboard.
Or you could test the thermisters which is more likely the problem by trying new ones they are quite cheap
Replace the thermisters:
This is what your looking for
There's nothing that you can do. You need to order a new thermistor. Even better, order several. They are really rather fragile. You will need 100 kilo-Ohm, NTC 3950K, glass-bead thermistors.
Here's what I pulled from amazon:
>A: Yes, I identified mine as a 5 (#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5) and has been solid.
>If you're going to use these or anything like them, make extra sure you don't let the insulation get stripped back. It'll happen normally if you're messing with the thermistor a lot and you have it in a drilled hole with the head of a button-head screw holding it in.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Thermistor-Sensor-Reprap-Comgrow/dp/B0714MR5BC
Do u know about the meme song called A.M.E.N.O. by Era???? Well if not its over. Jokes apart, you hace to buy a new thermistor (nk100 is the type you are looking for) You can buy It for a cople bucks each, I share a link just for your to know https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714MR5BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_0xZRFb9M5H7NN
This sounds like the thermistor is not working for the hotend, for whatever reason.
Make sure its plugged in of course.
Here's a link to replace it if you feel inclined.
I can’t quite make it to see if you broke it or not. There should be a small bead of glass at the end of the wire, it’s pretty fragile so it may have broke. The good news is that they are super cheap to replace and it just take a couple is solder points to splice in or you can open the printer and replace the whole cable at once. This is the replacement part. Creality 3D Printer NTC Thermistor Temp Sensor 100K for Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5 / CR-10 / CR-10S https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0714MR5BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F0HwFbCGVM7NV
These should work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714MR5BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xHheFb3WR8409 You’ll just get the old one out and be careful not to screw it too tight, the little screw is just to hold the wire from moving and you can damage it if you got too hard.
NTC Thermistor Temp Sensor 100K
It said it would work with all the major versions, all I was aware of was the resistance, so I saw 100k and the same connection type.
Haven't doe it for my 5 plus yet, but n my 3 pro I used this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714MR5BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_APDFJW7JMWRMXXMQC2Q2
You were bang in the money! Thank you so much!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0714MR5BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_NbNYFbFK24ZHW
After about 5 prints, my Mega Zero's thermistor went bad (I think mine was defective out of the factory, and the repeated movement wore it out). Replacing the thermistor is cheap so that might be worth trying and will likely fix the problem.
I purchased a new pack on amazon that was intended for the ender 3 (on which the Mega Zero seems to be based) and they fit fine, and the printer is working perfectly now (no temp errors).
When I purchased the thermistor I ended up getting one that had a long wire that connected all the way back to the mainboard, but the zero came pre-installed with a connector close to the print head and a male-to-male extension from the connector to the mainboard, so take off the wire ties near the print head and pull back the wire cover and see if you can find one that connects properly to that, if not I'll link the parts I purchased below.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714MR5BC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I agree with the Captain on this one.
The only other obvious thing to look for is, your silicone sock might not be installed over the hot end/nozzle.
So... if it is your thermistor, I would just replace it, they are pretty cheapo, and it is not worth risking a fire from Thermal Runaway.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714MR5BC
When I go to install a new thermistor, I pull the old one out, making note of the plug in the mainboard, so I do not mix it up with the same type of thermistor for the bed...
I take the hot end off the printer, so I can hold it.
I make sure the thermistor screw is about halfway in.
I put the Tiny, delicate glass bead as far into the hole for the bead as possible.
I fold the wires up under the thermistor screw and cross them under the screw head.
I hold the wires with my non-dominant thumb, and tighten the screw just enough to secure the wires - without crimping the wires - The wires in the thermal sleeve are also, very delicate. You want that screw to hold them, not damage them.
Install the Hot-end back on the printer. Taking care to not fold the loose wires against the screw that holds them in place. Once you have the Hot-end back on, reroute your wires to the Mainboard.
Plug the Thermistor into the correct port you took note of at the beginning of this procedure.
Run a PID tune for your hot end. (Also, when you go to test your Printer, make sure the thermal sock is covering your Hot-end. This stabilizes the temperature of the Hot-end during the PID test.)
Well that is a BIG problem, because thermal runaway means your thermistor has bit the dust and is no longer sensing temperature correctly.
And your lucky your printer detected it and stopped printing, otherwise this could've gotten out of hand quickly.
REPLACE YOUR THERMISTOR ASAP!
The first review is exactly your situation, so hope this helps!
-ND
I personally use these. They work great, but because it's only a 1M cable, it could be a little short at max height without an extension.
bring it inside. you leaving it in the cold like that is bad for the machine.
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https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Thermistor-Sensor-Reprap-Comgrow/dp/B0714MR5BC
Here's what I bought when that happened to me.
it should work fine. it's basically the same as the stock hot end. if you just want to replace the terminator though, these will work just fine https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Thermistor-Sensor-Reprap-Comgrow/dp/B0714MR5BC/
Right. So if you're putting it here..
I mean, you're putting something there.
If that's what you're talking about here, then a standard NTC thermistor is actually designed for that purpose and your printer mcu is also designed to accept one.
Looks like thermistors
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Thermistor-Sensor-Reprap-Comgrow/dp/B0714MR5BC
Check and replace the thermistor like these then should Fix it. There very fragile so don't over tighten the screw
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0714MR5BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WHXDM63F60TKZSW99BDB
So this is what I previously ordered (which looks like the exact same thing) but the connection doesn't fit. The leads are plenty long (only need about 6") but the PCB connection is wrong (too big).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714MR5BC/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Creality 3D Printer NTC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714MR5BC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
We’ll just replaced it with a brand new thermistor.. Seems to be fluctuating even more now. Printing at 220 and it’s anywhere between 218-222. Any trick to the install? I inserted it as far as it would go and gently tightened the screw. I didn’t over crack, just barely snug.
Also saw this one, which screws directly into the threaded screw hole to hold down the thermistor. I wonder if it’s more accurate?
I’ve only had this CR-10 S5 since Oct and have not accomplished much. Always some issue, my CR-6SE is so easy! Lol. I’ll get to that full size astromech droid if it kills me…lol.
If you do replace it, follow this guide
I bought these ones
Sounds like a problem with the thermistor, which is the heat sensor in the hotend.
Basically the way the printer heats the hotend is:
- Send current to the heating element in the hotend
- The thermistor checks if the temperature of the hotend is at target temperature
- If no, keep heating, go to 1
- If yes, maintain heat
- If hotend temp exceeds target temp for too long, trigger thermal runaway protection and shutdown
Make sure the thermistor wires are connected and not shorted. You may need to replace the thermistor, as they are known to fail sometimes. Fortunately, they are cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Thermistor-Sensor-Reprap-Comgrow/dp/B0714MR5BC/
Creality 3D Printer NTC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714MR5BC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this is the link! It comes with multiple!
Amazon thermistor it’s the white wire.
Its this one which I think is the same. I soldered this on and Im not sure if that will change the outcome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714MR5BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_2M9Z36K9FTHZDAKKJ2PD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Replacement 100K Thermistors on Amazon (looks like a 4-pack). And another one. (5-pack).
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Thermistor-Sensor-Reprap-Comgrow/dp/B0714MR5BC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3MMJFNPZP1JHL&dchild=1&keywords=thermistor+3d+printer&qid=1623885626&sprefix=thermistor%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-3 Would one of these guys work? I could prolly find a video on YT to figure out how to replace it right?
So the thermistor was broken. I replaced it with one from
LINK: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714MR5BC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and I'm still getting the same error. would the hater cartridge be a problem as well or do I specifically a thermistor from the link you provided?
That sounds accurate. Most of these are 100k NTC thermistors. Check this out for the full table. It should be close enough: https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/41176608/100k-thermistor-output-table-100k-thermistor-output-table-bapi
If it's really a quick spike then I bet the insulation is pinched and its intermittently shorting against the heatblock. They're really easy to damage while swapping hotends; that insulation right at the end is very fragile. It'll read normally most of the time but will spike any time it moves a certain way. You might be able to replicate that by poking the wires by hand (while cold) and watching for any spikes. Those thermistors are so cheap I'd just buy a new one and replace it as the next troubleshooting step. Here's a 5 pack with the Creality plug on them for $14: https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Thermistor-Sensor-Reprap-Comgrow/dp/B0714MR5BC/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=3d+printer+thermistor&qid=1615497717&sr=8-5
It's called a thermistor. Here is one that should fit, though they all are 1m long. When you replace it, make sure you also do a PID autotune.
Hi! Kind of. I ordered some replacement thermistor wires, and I went to install them, I learned that the hot end has a small hole that the little bead is supposed to be tucked into. I hadn't realized that originally, and know that the bead Wasn't tucked away when it was failing.
While it's possible that the only issue was it needing to be repositioned, I'm inclined to believe that it would have just read a lower temperature if that was the case. I'm pretty sure that the bead was damaged and the wires weren't able to get a proper circuit.
These are the replacements I ordered, and since installing, my printer's working fine again. - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0714MR5BC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hopefully you only need a new thermistor. Check by unplugging the thermistor from the motherboard; if it then reads ridiculously high, it's just the thermistor at fault, but (though unlikely) you may have damaged the motherboard. You can find thermistors on Amazon, ebay and the other usual sites, or from 3D printer specialists. You want a 100K NTC glass bead thermistor, eg this one or this one and it will save some hassle if you buy it prewired with a plug.
This is the thermister I just installed on mine. It works again https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714MR5BC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hard to tell by the pic, but the thermistor is the small, very thin silicone wires that lead to a glass bulb at the end of it. This is very fragile and is easily damaged. The screw is there more to just stop the glass bulb from falling out of the heater block and should NOT be hard tight on the wires - they are that fragile. Good news is, they are cheap to replace so its good to have extras on hand. Just make sure you do a PID autotune when you replace it to make sure its tuned well. (It's easy to do).
So first thing I would try is a PIDTEMP
You will need to manually send the gcode command
M303 C 20 S 200
Then Save with a
M500
But it does sound like your Thermistorhas gone bad. They are generally an easy replacement. The following is a link to an easy swap with the correct connectors and cable lengths. You can find them cheaper if you look around and/or install the cable and connector yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Thermistor-Sensor-Reprap-Comgrow/dp/B0714MR5BC/
If youre extruding too cold because of a faulty sensor, thats a whole other can of worms you need to get taken care of. If your material isnt being extruded at the proper temperature, it wont flow like it should and wont bond to itself or the build platform like it should. The heat of the bed should affect how the nozzle extrudes at all.
Its hard to get a precise value of how close that nozzle is from a photo. That said, if that offset is what produced the first layer in the second print of your album, then youre either way too close OR extruding too cold/not enough
Tl;Dr - If you know that your hotend thermistor isnt reading properly, get that replaced first. If youre unsure of which style, just use the official: https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Thermistor-Sensor-Reprap-Comgrow/dp/B0714MR5BC/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=creality+thermistor&qid=1595404806&sr=8-3&x=0&y=0
If you have the Micro-Swiss hotend, then you should be able to use any heater and termistor that is designed for the stock hotend. Here is what I've bought from Amazon in the past. Thermistor and Heater. Its always good to have spares on hand.
(I upgraded to E3D V6 and use different setup now)