I am saying you should be using relays that have a 12 volt coil, so you aren’t using the regulator for the relay coil energy.
If you can’t find a 3 terminal switch mode regulator with the footprint you need that can handle the current you need, consider an off-board switch mode buck converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Converter-1-25-36v-Efficiency-Regulator/dp/B079N9BFZC
OK so without slapping random batteries in id's day find a 1000mah 20c 2s 7.4v lipo battery, next get a voltage regulator board
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N9BFZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1dkgFbSS72APA
Wire everything up and plug in the battery then Using a multi meter adjust the output voltage to 6.0v and then give her a test fire on the toy rc
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- Springs: Changed this out before I ever printed with the stock ones based on reviews. Just do it.
- BL Touch: Questionable if you need this. The bed is pretty small on the Ender 3 so it shouldn't have too much wave. Honestly, I check the bed level every ~5 prints with a piece of paper and its almost always dead on. Only have to level when I have had a print break loose and break my Bullseye cooler duct. I also think this adds to the print time since it takes a couple mins to do this every print. I'll leave others to comment to the value...
- Ribbon cable: Not sure what this goes to but I had purchased a pi camera that used a ribbon cable when I hooked up an Octopi. I found the ribbon cable to be a nightmare when it came to routing it on the printer. Not sure what this one is used for but make sure its not moving in multiple axes or it will just get in the way.
- Capricorn guide: I added this to one printer, stock on the other. No real difference noted...
- The screw in connector that boden tub plugs into: Get these... Definitely notice a difference with better aftermarket ones. I'd also change the retarction settings to 3.5mm on my pritner because I would see the tube "expand" at the connectors when it was trying oto retract back and forth 5mm while printing...
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Other items to add:
Highly recommend a raspberry Pi to run OctoPi. Single greatest thing about managing 3d printing. I get texts when my prints finish,
Buck Converter: Use this to power the Raspberry Pi from the Ender power supply
Webcam: Cheap webcam from eBay works great for monitoring your prints
Gluesticks: Get these. Neater than hairspray and virtually guarantees a good print for me.
Glass bed: Some people get a piece of glass at big box store, I bought the $20 ender glass off Amazon. Much better...
Printer Mods:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3176144 Most important print to add to the printer. Makes changing filament easy...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3612390
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3370355 makes adjusting z height really easy
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2960375 keep your cables clean!
Bullseye Cooling duct: Greatly minimized the amount of build support I need when printing PLA.
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Key advice: Do not turn your printer off without it cooling off first. I thought this didn't matter but this is the single biggest piece of advice I can give that not many others talk about alot. If you turn your printer off while the hotend is hot, the hotend cooling fan will turn off and all the heat in the hotend will slowly migrate up into the boden tube. Your filament will melt in the tube and create a total mess. Have had zero problems in the last three months once I realized this.
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Another tip: Weigh your spools on kitchen scale before you print. Write weight in grams. Makes it super easy to know if you will heave enough for a print later on if you know what you started with...
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I'm sure I'll think of some other things and will try to add later. Get started and have fun!
Don't use resistors, voltage can change under load. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N9BFZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_9jISFbN87R3YX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This it’s my list of components:
D-Planet [4-Pack] 5A DC-DC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N9BFZC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
2PCs USB-C Type-C PD Trigger... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LDJBN8P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
In theory, you can use any kind of accessories because USB pd's have enough power in volts and watts to match the OG power supply.
These should work: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Converter-1-25-36v-Efficiency-Regulator/dp/B079N9BFZC
It says they handle 5 amps which should be enough for your gloves (it would be best if you could figure out the actual current needed).
Power connectors like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pigtail-Female-Connectors-Security-Adapter/dp/B07C7VSRBG
Make sure to make things watertight somehow. The buck converter might need a heat sink. Make sure to carefully set the output voltage with the trimmer potentiometer. I would also put a 5A inline fuse on the power input.
These are the ones I use. Haven't had an issue yet. I chose them for the higher ratings than the ones most people use.
Here's a sneak peek of /r/Calyx using the top posts of the year!
#1: 5G device coming soon
#2: For those waiting on their orders, I just received this email from Calyx | 4 comments
#3: M2000 battery eliminator pictures | 16 comments
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Here's a sneak peek of /r/Calyx using the top posts of the year!
#1: 5G device coming soon
#2: For those waiting on their orders, I just received this email from Calyx | 4 comments
#3: M2000 battery eliminator pictures | 16 comments
^^I'm ^^a ^^bot, ^^beep ^^boop ^^| ^^Downvote ^^to ^^remove ^^| ^^Contact ^^| ^^Info ^^| ^^Opt-out ^^| ^^GitHub
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079N9BFZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 could something like this be used to do it?