What is Reddit's opinion of Decal Setting Solution-Micro Scale Micro Sol 102 + Micro Set 101 Package Decal?

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All good :D what reddit warhammer is for! If you get into transfers, I highly, highly recommend micoset and microsol. Transfers can be super annoying on curved surfaces, won't lay flat, these soften the material and give you a "painted on" look.

I used Micro Sol and Micro Set. Saw a video about them about a year ago. Makes the transfer adhere to the shape of where you place it. It's $13.50 on Amazon and lasts forever (so long as you don't spill it

Decal Setting Solution-Micro Scale Micro Sol 102 + Micro Set 101 Package Decal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXZ03W9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_qIh8FbWTH069N

Model looks great! The transfers are a bit tricky since the shoulder pads are rounded but I think it may be worth the effort. Check out micro sol and micro set if you're interested. Butt stock as black would add some depth to the chest area and maybe check out adding on hand grenades or the ammo/canteen bits too. My guard are the box art color scheme though so I'm not the most creative one out there!

Micro Sol and Micro Set

amazon or any decent hobby shop will have them.

Micro Sol enhances the adhesiveness of water-slide transfers.

Micro Set "melts" them so they conform to fit any surface to which they are applied.

and because I'm a kind soul

GW's Decals can be very forgiving if you're smart about them.

First thing you want to do is go to amazon and buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Decal-Setting-Solution-Micro-Scale-Package/dp/B01LXZ03W9/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1OSCWQXEIRPQC&dchild=1&keywords=microsol+and+microset&qid=1586816249&sprefix=microsol+%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-1

Second, is hope it shows up despite the corona apocalypse. (I've had good luck)

Third, put your decal on with plenty of water, slide it into position, and let it dry. Then use the microsol, which eats away the glossy weird part, let it dry, then the micro-set, which seems to help keep it from flaking. After that they practically look painted on.

I just started putting decals on my guys and I just found out about this junk: Micro Set and Micro Sol

https://www.amazon.com/Decal-Setting-Solution-Micro-Scale-Package/dp/B01LXZ03W9/ref=asc_df_B01LXZ03W9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312168126179&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16631264747707344755&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030266&hvtargid=pla-569817326775&psc=1

Makes stuff easy!

You should be proud of this. It's a great miniature, not just a great start, and if this is the first model you've done then just wait until what happens when you paint your 10th or 100th. Like any other skill this is all about practice, patience, and developing your own methods and techniques. What takes you 4-5 hours now will take an hour down the line.

Overall the model is very clean, which in my opinion is the first priority of any paint job. With the exception of some minor overages on the purity seal, finger holding the gun, the edges of the black rim, eyes, and the edges of the winged skull on the gun there's no overages. You've done a good job of blocking out the model; everything you do from here on is just taking that core approach and adding details.

In terms of criticisms, the first thing I would do is suggest that you just keep painting! Do a 5 man squad to this level and see how the fifth model compares to the first. Take notes on what you did and what worked, ways you think you can do better (what order to paint things, etc), stuff like that. A painting journal is an excellent way to not only keep track of your progress but also helps if you want to go back and do some more models in an older style that you might have forgotten.

Next, look at some techniques to add depth to your base. For example drybrushing the base and then adding a brown or black wash will create multiple levels and enhance the appearance. You could also experiment with painting different sections different colors and then using a common wash to bring it all together; for example paint the ground brown and the ruins gray and then wash it all with a dark tone. Bases are also a great place to experiment with techniques like that since they're so forgiving; you can even do the base separately and then glue the finished model on it. I'm a big fan of painting my models in pieces and then assembling the finished product.

Next, experiment with decals. Applying decals is a very easy to way to add a lot of detail to your miniature. I recommend purchasing Micro Sol and Micro Set for this purpose; look up how to use it on YouTube. Most kits come with a decal sheet, or if you DM me I'll send you some specific for Ultramarines to get started.

Third, look up on YouTube some techniques that interest you and just keep painting. Maybe you want to edge highlight your models and go for a GW-specific style; the Warhammer YouTube page is full of great options. You could maybe go for a Contrast-based look; Warhammer has some great tips as done Duncan Rhodes. Or maybe you want to do something else; whatever you want it's your army.

Good luck! I've been painting off and on for 25 years, and without a doubt the best way to get better is to just keep painting! And no matter what keep that model so that you can always see how far you've come.

I use Micro Sol and Micro set for all my decals. Works wonderfully too! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXZ03W9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_BAFKNJD6XQJM0C1AC380?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I use Micro Set and Micro Sol. You can get them from Amazon among other places.

You're doing well. That's really great work for an early model

Get some Micro Set and Micro Sol to help make your decals look better. My usual process is:

1. Put the decal you have cut out in water
2. Paint a layer of gloss varnish such as 'Ard Coat in the aea you want to apply decal
3. Once that is dry, apply a light coat of Microset down.
4. When the micro set is mostly dry, apply the decal to the model
5. Soak up any excess water around the decal and get it into proper position
6. Apply layer of Microset
7. Once the Microsoft is dry, apply a layer of Microsol to get the decal to adhere more closely to the model.
8. Apply coats of Microsol to the decal, letting it dry in between each coat until you're happy with the visual appearance. You can use a hair dryer to speed up this process if you want.
9. Apply a matte varnish over the area where you applied the decal to reduce shine and protect the decal - you may want to do that over the entire model with something like Testors dull coat

I know that's nine steps, but that's mostly because I was very detailed and didn't want to leave anything out. The process is actually very quick and if you're putting decals on a large group of models at same time you can follow the steps as an assembly line

The other thing I would recommend is potentially taking off the arrow decal in the back. It's totally optional, and your preferences definitely overrule anything I have to say, but if you want these bikes to have markings in line with codex fluff there are few guidelines to follow.

The single arrows that point up are for troops such as Intercessors, Tactical squads, Scouts and such. The crossed arrows that point in each direction represent fast attack squads like Bikers, Assault Squads, Inceptors, etc. The chevron is used for heavy support squads such as Devastators and Hellblasters. At the end of the day, this has no impact on the rules or legality of your army, it's just part of the fluff guidelines that you can follow if you choose to

Your decals need to be softened up a bit, I really suggest Micro-sol. It makes thing so much more pleasant to work with when you have a full squad or army and you have to do dozens of little tiny knees and trims.

I love them otherwise though, really great.