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of course of course, and you will most likely be taking measurements from real world often so you know how to size/create your model. i would highly recommend spending under $20 and get yourself a digital caliper like this from amazon [link]
and you can find $1 little tape measures in hardware stores like harbor freight, i have a handful of them laying around just in case there is something larger to measure, best of luck
A caliper is only $10. It's extremely useful and also doubles as a ruler. Everyone should have one. You're probably thinking of those Japanese ones that cost over $100...
Here is one of many clones of a very basic cheap caliper I have
I got these they worked great for me. Get digital for sure. Digital Caliper, Adoric 0-6" Calipers Measuring Tool - Electronic Micrometer Caliper with Large LCD Screen, Auto-Off Feature, Inch and Millimeter Conversion [link]
Get you some of these and the world is yours.
First place to try is the original manufacturer. If the part is still available they might even send it to you for free. Even if they don't, you might be able to get the correct dimensions and the material it's made from.
Second place is McMaster Carr. If you don't have a pair of calipers, get yourself these for cheap. They should have what you need unless the o rings you need are custom.
Third option is to make it yourself.
Fourth option is to hire a prototype company to make you one special order. This could be relatively cheap if you have a mechanical engineer friend. If not, this could be insanely expensive.
I don’t know if this is allowed, but I bought one of these guys a few months ago and it’s worked great for me. I’m sure there are smaller ones going around though.
Digital Caliper, Adoric 0-6" Calipers Measuring Tool - Electronic Micrometer Caliper with Large LCD Screen, Auto-Off Feature, Inch and Millimeter Conversion [link]
Hey there! I’ve put together that the max 700c size is just under 50 and the max 650b is just over 50. Neither of those leave much for mud clearance or tire flex though. Personally I’ve got Force AXS and the battery of the FD seems to further cut down on clearance. I haven’t been able to test anything though since my frame was damaged and is at the shop awaiting a replacement. I did order this, [link] , to get an accurate measurement hopefully before I buy tires.
I’m also considering going with a set of 700c gravel wheels since there are so many good gravel/xc tires in that size and I don’t gain a ton going to 650b.
Right on, I found these ones cheap online and they seem to measure to 0.01, what do you think?
Double check the shoulder to first cut distance with a dial/digital caliper. If you don't have one, get a $10 cheap Chinese one. They work fine, and they're the best tool for key problem diagnosis. That'll tell you if it's actually a spacing issue or what. Gotta have a caliper to work with locks. If you have to pull the key out a bit to get it to work, that frequently means the key is cut too deep and the pins only work if you get them to ride up the slope of the side of the cut.
One thing to remember with keys is that although you cut depths based on the bottom of the key, they key actually indexes in the plug by the side warding. There are some keys that while nominally the same blank for the same keyway, won't index the same in a key machine because one has a radiused bottom and the other has a flat bottom. If you're duplicating a flat bottomed key onto a radius bottomed blank, the radius bottom key sits higher in the jaw and the cuts end up slightly too deep.
Back when I worked at a county hospital, we used to exploit this by intentionally shaving .020" off the bottom of the common Yale GA keys that gave access to the elevator just to thwart casual duplication by shoe repair guys.
This has happened to me 38 hrs into a 40 hr print I got some weird layer shift. Highly recommend getting some digital calipers from amazon. They will come in super handy in your 3D printing endeavors:
Digital Caliper, Adoric 0-6" Calipers Measuring Tool - Electronic Micrometer Caliper ... [link]
Where does anything come from? Amazon obviously. It seems they don't have the $12 ones right now. Here are some $9 ones.
Just ordered these bad boys, should come in time for my trip down to London. We'll finally decide whether Chelsea are bigger than Arsenal.
For cut rounds, I find these to be super helpful. (That said, I have a bunch laying around in various shapes and forms anyways...but for $2.50 full price, it’s not a bad buy!) I can easily show my mr how big things are by pointing at a circle!
For any other shapes/sizes, I cannot rave enough about my $9 calipers that I use to check and measure everything!
Plenty of ways to measure it at home to give you an idea at least.
Most recommend a ruler and a mirror.
One thing I haven't seen suggested but worked well for me was one of these infront of a mirror lol I just happened to have one for my 3d printing.
First step is probably buy some calipers:
Then you can measure things accurately to create the 3d models, once you figure out what software works best for you.
I recommend these, had them for a while and they just work
your spool holder is on backwards. Put the spool on the backside of the vertical metal bit, so it's inline with the extruder. As it is right now the filament will catch on the vertical rail or the Z axis screw.
You are going to have a LOT of fun!
Buy a micrometer. You can get a basic one for $10 on Amazon. Go through the calibration guides- that includes measuring the diameter of the filament and calibrating the extruder drive. This will increase your print quality.
Try the Creality glass print bed. It works quite well for me. Just clean it with rubbing alcohol when it gets dirty.
My best upgrade so far- Raspberry Pi with OctoPrint. Right to the left of the display is a great place to mount it, especially with a right angle short USB cable to plug it into the printer. This type mount works well but I'm not a fan of that camera mount. With the Pi you can control the printer without using the click wheel, including things like preheat. And no shuffling MicroSD cards around!
Basically! This is what she asked me for [link]
This is the digital caliper I purchased off Amazon [link]
But she never had my actual engagement ring in person and she got the wedding band just perfect, imo.
Hey I’m sorry for the delay. I followed the video here to make the jig. It took a couple attempts to get measurement correct. If you plan on doing then a lot I would highly recommend a digital gauge. I got mine off Amazon’s for really cheap and I honestly think it’s why they came out okay. The tiniest difference in the distance between the “fingers” can ruin the alignment.
Video for the jig:
Good luck, message me if you have any questions. I learned a lot during the process
The pictures of the chip contact area of the thermal pads and of the GPU Core and heatsink will definitely help. It sounds a lot like you need a mix of thermal pads. But your results are a bit bizarre. How much did you push in the VRAM pads? Did you measure them with a digital micrometer (you can get a cheap one for $10 on Amazon, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Caliper-Adoric-Calipers-Measuring/dp/B07DFFYCXS/
Generally you shouldn't compress Gelid Extreme pads. They are already quite soft. It's best to let the screws compress them. The only compression you need are a very light press on each one to make sure they stick to the chips and don't fall off when you invert the PCB to mount it to the heatsink. And this should not be more than 0.1mm of manual pressing needed. Unless you went "ham" on them and compressed them by 50%, turning a 2mm pad into a 1mm pad, I'm not sure why your memory temps skyrocketed. But I can tell you there is VERY little leeway between "great contact" and "no contact at all".
This is my 1.5mm (VRAM) mount where I had both 1.5mm on VRAM and 1.5mm on VRM's. I re-did this to put 2mm on VRM's. But you can see that while there is great contact on the VRAM, it clearly did not compress by 33% at all (1.5mm to 1.0mm). Maybe it was like 0.2mm at most.
On the second picture, you can clearly see that there is a contact problem on the right side VRM thin strips. Low imprint pressure and heat 'melt' marks from high heat in a concentrated area (this was 2 months of use). Compare the first two pictures. That's why I switched to 2mm Gelid Extremes for VRM only (I took the picture right after the removal, before repadding). But I posted these pictures to show you the VRAM imprint, not VRM, and to show you just how little leeway you have to work with.
Here are the original Nvidia pads for a 3090. 1.5mm VRAM also, left VRM 1.8mm, right VRM 2.0mm. You can see clearly that the imprint is clear but the VRAM didnt compess as much as the VRM's did.
If no one knows, best thing to do is to buy a digital caliper from Amazon for cheap and just measure the pads yourself. Something like this works and won't break the bank.
In a worst case scenario (where you have no way to measure the originals, e.g missing or completely melted and warped pads), what you need to do is buy some cheap Amazon Aiyunni 0.5mm, 1.0mm and 1.5mm thermal pads (one sample of each, 100mm * 100mm) and then put a small drop of toothpaste on the very middle of the (cleaned off) GPU die and in the center (again a small amount) of each pad/VRM, screw down x-bracket + PCB+backplate and then immediately unscrew and test for complete full spread of the toothpaste (you can use really cheap thermal paste if you have crappy paste sitting around too, just don't waste the good stuff).
If the pads spread the paste well but the die doesn't, the pads are too thick. If the paste spreads perfect on the die but not on any particular section of pad, that pad section is too thin. Experiment until you get perfect contact on every padded section and GPU core all at once, then clean off, switch to good pads (Gelid Extreme) of the proper thickness, and good thermal paste. The AIYUNNI pads will get you at least being able to use the card until your Gelid Extreme pads arrive.
They're the same ones I ordered from Amazon.
Over exposure is one possibility. Another is that your screen resolution isn't quite set right in your slicer, which will distort minis a tiny bit. A third possibility is that even at the right exposure for the resin, some do still expand a bit, which can make the precise size of holes and pegs an issue with tight tolerances.
IIRC, the ld2h uses chitubox for the slicer, so we'll check screen resolution settings first. You can check your screen size, and usable size in there- they're not quite the same.
The actual size of the screen I've found is:
x: 82.62mm y: 130.56mm z: 160mm
So make sure those are correctly set as the machine 'size' values so prints are scaled correctly. The actual build area is slightly smaller, at 82x130x160mm (they blackout the side of the mono panel, so you lose a few pixels to avoid accidental exposure of resin on the edges of the vat). So you can either avoid putting things within 0.6mm of the edge of the build plate in chitubox when you're laying out minis (easiest), or adjust the chitubox 'build area offset' which makes the build area slightly smaller without affecting printed dimensions. The exact measurements depend on where the blackout on the sides is exactly in relation to the screen, so is probably best to leave alone unless someone has good defaults for the ld2h (couldn't find any with a 5 minute google search)
For getting exposure just right at your layer size for your resin, follow this tutorial.
At that point, if it's still not right, the simplest fix is just to trim the pegs down with a craft knife and/or sand paper.
Assuming none of those fixes your problem though, you can do size calibration, but you will need precision calipers, e.g. something like this.
You print a calibration cube (such as this one for resin). You then measure the external size with the calipers - it should be 20mm exactly in the X and Y direction at the top of the cube (make sure the cube match the same sides that chitubox uses; X is the short side)
Assuming it isn't, you can then use the tolerance compensation in chitubox (under advanced) to either shrink or grow your models in the external sides. (a more detailed explaination here)
Say your cube is actually 20.2mm in size when printed, so then you'd set a tolerance compensation of -0.1mm for 'b', the outside size - you halve the difference as it shrinks by that amount all around - and chitubox will know to shrink the model slightly before printing to counter the resin expansion. The net effect should then be the next cube print is very close to 20mm. That should also then mean your models are more accurately scaled for precise fit of things like pegs.
You can also do the same thing for holes with the 'a' compensation, but those are harder to measure with the calipers, and chitubox determination of what is a hole is still a bit iffy in my experience, so it's easier to just deal with the outside size.
Equally, you can also do the same with the bottom tolerance compensation, to shrink down the higher exposure bottom 5 layers. We throw away the supports & raft used for minis so it doesn't matter if those first layers are a bit expanded. If you print bases directly on the base plate though, it can be worth getting those settings dialled in too, to reduce the 'elephants foot'. The calibration cube x/y bottom sections should be 22mm long exactly. If you use the calipers, you can see how much extra the resin swells on those bottom 5 layers, and shrink it down with a negative value in the bottom compensation 'b' field.
Not OP but A digital caliper is the easiest way. Fusion 360 is the app I like to use to model and there are a lot of videos on how to use it. My local library has a 3D printer for public use and charges by the gram.
Do you have a crystal press? You can pop out the current one and measure its thickness and diameter with a digital caliper (https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Caliper-Adoric-Calipers-Measuring/dp/B07DFFYCXS/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=digital+caliper&qid=1611185631&sr=8-4) As long as you don't touch it with your bare fingers you should be okay to just pop it back in and order a sapphire with the same dimensions to replace it.
Yeah, considering the accuracy of calipers is a huge deal there are probably other factors involved.
This is a good read from Mitutoyo about accuracy standards: https://www.mitutoyo.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/15003A.pdf
This is a cheap Amazon caliper that is only within +/- 0.2mm.
Spend your money on good testing equipment people! You will never regret it if you take care of it properly.
Deal link: Amazon
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The manufacturer will usually say somewhere which strings are on it if you bought it new. Otherwise some calipers will do the job.
Haha good one, and nah it’s only $10 on amazon here’s a link [link]
As a 3D owner, you need this: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Caliper-Adoric-Calipers-Measuring/dp/B07DFFYCXS
For a 3D printer, there is a good chance that they are either 3mm or 4mm.
Just buy a standard digital caliper. The end that sticks out is to measure depths and you have a regular caliper for whatever else.
This is the one I have: [link]
I must have gotten the cheapest of the cheap. Lol
Get yourself one of these, I'm guessing the USA, so $9.98: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Caliper-Adoric-Calipers-Measuring/dp/B07DFFYCXS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1F8RPLPA66DZD&keywords=digital+caliper&qid=1564904211&s=gateway&sprefix=digital+ca%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-4
Buy a set of calipers.
If you know the screw size of the screws you plan to use, you can use a screw size chart (like this: http://www.accuratescrew.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Table1.jpg)
Don't forget to convert the inches to millimeters ;)
I just used my digital calipers to measure the size of the screws I was going to use and then added a bit of clearance. If you're going to make functional prints, you'll probably at least want some form of caliper measuring device. ... it doesn't have to be super expensive and insanely accurate.. this would do just fine IMO: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Caliper-Adoric-Calipers-Measuring/dp/B07DFFYCXS/ref=sr_1_18?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1543583874&sr=1-18&keywords=caliper
Another option which is another "functional print" is to design a plate with ascending hole sizes so you can test fit screws whenever you are trying to decide what size hole to make (kinda nice to have a physical representation of the holes your printer makes) Don't forget to mark it though :)