What is reddit's opinion of Dog Crate 1636DDU| MidWest Life Stages 36" Double Door Folding Metal Dog Crate | Divider Panel, Floor Protecting Feet, Leak-Proof Dog Tray | 36L x 24W x 27H Inches, Intermediate Dog Breed?

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I find this hard to believe. What kind of crates were you using? I have a crate similar to this and there's no way my dog could ever get out of it as long as both the top and bottom latches are latched properly. It's just impossible for him to get out of without seriously hurting himself.

A few ideas..

• Get a crate! Even if you plan on letting her have free rain of the house, a crate is a great tool to make her comfortable. We bought this and have been thrilled. big enough that he has grown into it.
• Make sure to ease her into being alone. I work from home, so our little guy is very used to being around people. As such, he started to show some real dependency issues. We've been slowly crating him for longer and giving him more alone time. It's been really valuable.
• Ours is a strong chewer, and other owners I've talked to say the same thing. Invest in tough toys. We've been buying ours toys rated for 100+ pound dogs and they are the only thing he doesn't wreck immediately.
• Finally, they are stubborn, loving dogs. Everyone in the house that should be able to give commands needs to share in raising the pup.

Generally, you want to make sure there's at least a few inches of head space above your dog so they can stand comfortably. Look up the average height of your breed when it's fully grown, and use the upper estimate to figure out the height of the crate. My puppy is going to be about 22 inches tall when he's fully grown, so I went with a crate that's 27 inches high.

A lot of puppies will get confused in a crate that's too big and will start pooping at one end and sleeping/eating at the other, so the divider is definitely a good idea. I'd recommend this one :)

He will still need boosters, typically at 10/13/16 weeks. We have a 10wk old corgi right now (and this is what I did w/our 2.5yo corgi) and I still let him outside to potty and meet people. I just make sure it's in a controlled environment. No trips to the dog park yet, when we go to Petco/Smart he rides on puppy pads in a cart. Maybe arrange a playdate with a friend that has a dog that is up to date on shots?

Obedience is sit/stay/down and socialization is learning how to play with other dogs. I would try and find a class that is obedience for puppies, typically they will have some free time scheduled into them for socialization as well.

Definitely still crate train your pup! Ours are both crate trained! It makes potty training a lot easier and makes life for him (AND you!) so much easier. What if he needs to be boarded while you go out of town? The boarder will be crating him at night. What about when he goes to the vet to get neutered? Post OP they will keep him safe and secure in a crate for observation. Buy a crate like this that is big enough for him when he's full grown, but has a divider so that you can make it the right size for him as he grows. You only want it big enough that he can lay down and turn around in until he can easily go all night w/o pottying in it.

And congrats! Puppies are SO much work, but so so worth it. And corgis are just the best. You're in for a wonderful adventure.

1. Thanks for reminding me about prime day! I'm going to keep an eye on travel crates.
2. My male shiba's crate is 30x21x24, it's the midwest life stages metal crate. He's just over 30 pounds and he can stretch out to sleep in it and stand up. I wouldn't go much smaller for his size, but those dimensions will probably work, especially if your pup is at all smaller than mine.

This one from Amazon is great. The price is reasonable and it's foldable, in case you ever have to move or anything. I find that dogs like the wire crates more because they can see out.

You need to give him some Nylabones or some toys to chew on as well as make sure there are comfortable blankets or sleep on. This is a training issue and you should talk to your vet about it, not really a "strength of the crate" issue. If the dog is trying this desperately to get out, they are either fearful of the crate or they have serious boredom issues.

This is the type of crate I use: [link]

If a 30lbs dog can break through this, then nothing you build short of a steel cube will hold them.

Did you try a Midwest Life Stages crate? They're pretty sturdily built (the "Life Stages" line is the heavy duty one) and well priced on Amazon.

Might want to get a dog crate, and if you can keep her outside but in the crate during the day to not irritate asshole; preferably inside, but asshole may still go apeshit when the dog eats or drinks or whatever. Also tell asshole to drop the meth or speed or crack or whatever the fuck he's taking that's got him so wired.

Our sam is still a pup, but so far the slip collar from white pine has been working ok. Were practicing with the harness as it makes pulling (which sams do pretty forcefully sometimes) easy to correct. She doesn't mind it for a little while, but it does get her hot depending on the weather.

I personally use this wire crate - holds up so far pretty well and allows it to grow with the pup. I decided no on the plastic crate, as unless were traveling and she needs to feel "safer," the heat is always a problem with sams and the wire crates allow lots of air flow. Plus, ours likes to see what's going on around her at all times.

As a pup, grooming is pretty easy so far - not much shedding, though we comb/brush daily just to get her used to us fussing all over her coat/paws etc. We went with breeder recommendations for brushes (this vid) and got this slicker, this comb, and this pin brush. I'm sure there are alternatives as well for each of those - i know the resco is what kait recommends, but so far these 3 work great for us.

You're very welcome! I meant what I said; don't be afraid to keep in touch and ask any questions you have. Here to help, especially first-time GSD owners! :)

Your thinking is right on point. The first GSD we had was trained to not enter the kitchen; our first floor was all carpet in the connecting rooms and he would make sure his paws did not touch the kitchen tile. Boundary training, physical or otherwise, is definitely something a GSD is capable of, especially if you start young, and is great for teaching respect. When she's familiar with and acing her basic commands (sit, stay, come, leave it), you can start boundary training; until then, it's best to fence off the area with something like a baby-gate or just make sure she doesn't enter the living room. The less familiar she is with the room before training begins, the quicker she'll learn.

Here's some resources to get you started. YouTube videos demonstrating different training exercises and tips will be extremely helpful in the months to come! Additionally, as others have mentioned, crate training is a lifesaver and will go hand-in-hand with boundary training. Teaching her that she has her own private space she can go to (her crate) will help enforce the thought that you also have your own private space that stays separate from her (the living room). One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet: upgrading crates as your dog gets bigger can be costly. A crate with dividers (you can scroll down the page here to see an example; the largest size option actually features a GSD) means you can purchase a one-time investment that "grows" with your pup. This is definitely a tip many friends wished they had realized sooner, especially those who own large breeds. I'm not sure how large your girl is now, but it's something to think about and save money over!

Huh, can't say that I've ever had experience with a dog that went nuts in the crate while the owner is in the same room.

>medium size crate

When you say medium size, do you mean 30" or 36"? Generally, a crate should be just big enough for the puppy to stand inside with all 4 legs and lay down in without extra space. If your puppy lays down flat on its side with their legs out and they have more than 2-3 inches of space on more than 1 side, then the crate is probably too big. The crate should be the correct size so that the puppy feels secure and so that the puppy doesn't soil the sides of the crate he doesn't use.

I think the problem is either the puppy doesn't feel secure because the crate is too large, or the puppy does not like the smell of the previous dog; or a combination of both. Another possibility is that your puppy has simply decided that the crate isn't fun anymore for whatever reason, and you need to reinforce the idea that the crate is a positive, happy place.

Try buying a crate with a divider, so your puppy can have the appropriate space for its size and you won't have to keep changing crates as your dog grows.

This is the crate I use. It's big, so you can partition it off it you want, I let my pup have the entire thing to walk around in though.

Mine didn't like going in the first couple of weeks. The key to teaching them to go in is by getting them to go in first, then giving a treat. Don't lead her in by tossing a treat in, make her work for it. Whenever my pup put her paw in, i'd give her praise and a treat. Then I would give her a gentle nudge while saying the "house" command, once she went completely in, I gave her praise and several treats. Just repeat that over and over until she goes in with the house command without you have to assist her. Always give praise and a treat when done correctly. It took me 20 minutes to teach Nami how to do it, it's pretty simple once they get it down and realize they'll be rewarded.

Here's a video of Nami doing a chain of commands with "house" thrown in

we're getting this crate, which comes with an adjustable divider:

[link]

Hi! How exciting, I hope everything goes smoothly with getting your new puppy :)

1) I would recommend a White Pine collar, I use it with both my Sams and almost every Samoyed breeder I know uses them as well because they aren't expensive, come in lots of colors and are made from a material that doesn't break the Samoyed coat which is an issue with a lot of other types of collars.

2) I have quite a few leads I've acquired over the years but I think to start with I would get just a regular 4 or 6' lead for short walks and a retractable lead for longer walks where you want your dog to be able to wander a little further from you.

3) Yes, definitely get an adult size crate with a divider, no need to waste money to a small crate that your puppy will grow out of in just a few months. Will your puppy be a male or a female? Females are generally smaller, for our girl we use this crate, it's 36"L x 24"W x 27"H and it's nice and spacious without being too big for her. For our boy we use the next size up one because he is larger.

4) I think it would be fine to wait until after all the vaccines to start the puppy kindergarten. Until then if you have anywhere you can walk around with your pup which is pet friendly (like a town center with side walks or even pet stores) that would work just fine too, you can carry her if you are worried. I live near quite a few ski villages so we just walked around the village with both our dogs when they were puppies and let people pet them and stuff.

5) I would talk to your vet about it, they will be able to give better advice. Personally I let both my puppies walk with me on the leash before they had all their shots because they still have antibodies to diseases that we vaccinate against from their mother so they are not completely defenseless, I just wouldn't push my luck and let my puppy play with an unfamiliar dog before all the shots are done for example.

6) It is definitely safer for the puppy to be in a crate, same for any dog in a vehicle really, if God forbid any sort of accident happens the dogs are a lot safer in their crates than being loose in the car.

Oh my. This is an interesting situation. Well, I'll answer you the best I can.

Crate training: Done with a crate/kennel. Generally, it should be big enough for the dog to turn around in, but not so big that they could pee/poop in one corner and then go sleep in another corner. I put a towel/blanket over my dog's crate so that it's more den like. Here are Cesar's tips on crate training.

I've never heard anything about the aspects of where you feed your dog. Here is an article from Cesar, and a video regarding feeding.

It appears her life has many stressing components and adding on top of that a drastic and quick change probably isn't helping. I think every dog is different and I don't know how long it will take for her to feel comfortable. Generally, a change like that should be as gradual as possible, but your circumstances might not facilitate that. I would walk your dog as much as possible to try to establish a good bond. Make sure you are in control and you are showing good qualities of a strong, calm, pack leader. Here are Cesar's walking tips, and here is a video.

You will hear mixed answers in regard to the dog sleeping in the bed. I do not let my dog sleep in the bed for a few reasons:

1.) Dirt/dander/pet hair in my sleeping area 2.) It can be unsanitary, you don't know what's on your dog's paws, or how "clean" they are 3.) I believe in being a pack leader and showing that I sleep near, but in my own personal space 4.) I crate train and I have my dog sleep in their "den" at night. Eventually, once my puppy is house-trained, I won't need to keep the door to the crate shut. My older dogs slept in their dens on their own accord, with the doors open.

The biggest thing with crate training is recognizing that you are creating your dog's "den". It is not a place to put the dog to punish it, this is a positive place that is their own, a safe place. I say "kennel up!" and give my dog a treat once he goes into his kennel, I give him toys in there, make it a positive experience. Funny story: I stepped on a piece of glass the other day (still haven't figured out where it came from!) and I let out a loud yell/scream and a few choice expletives. After tending to my foot, I couldn't find my puppy anywhere. Ended up finding him in his kennel/den. Definitely his "safe place"! :)

Good luck! The key to training and housebreaking is consistency. Whatever you choose to do stick with it!!!

I may not have any experience with Shiba's per se, but I do have one of their close cousins, an American Akita. Training wasn't difficult, but because of the willfullness of the breed, I'm going to tell you that patience and confidence aren't the only things you'll need. Being calm, and firm is the rest of that combination. Show this Shiba exactly 0 excitement, no matter what. Try not to let any excitement slip into your vocal patterns either. They'll respond better to a normal tone of voice. Also, don't be afraid to vocalize disappointment. It'll help in the long run.

Now, about the cost of raising a Shiba, effectively. First thing you'll need is a crate. The crate itself should only be big enough for your fully grown dog to stand up and turn around in. That said, this crate should do you nicely.

The next thing you'll need is a vet. If you have a Banfield (PetSmart vet) anywhere near you, use them. Put this dog on their wellness program. It will save you, quite literally, thousands of dollars in vaccinations, checkups, and general questions about their general health.

Now, people are saying it'll cost thousands of dollars to raise a dog. It doesn't, if done right. Feeding a Shiba 'cheap food' isn't going to do your wallet any favors, so, to that end, I'm going to recommend you start them off on Orijen in 5 lb bags. To some, this will not make any sense, since there's far cheaper options out there. I'll explain. That 5 lb bag of Orijen costs $26, and she'll go through one bag in about 2 weeks. Let's say your dog will be around 30 lbs. This means she'll get around 2¼ cups of Orijen a day. For another 'high end' food, Blue Buffalo, the same dog can get up to 4¾ cups a day. For Purina Puppy Chow, the very same dog can get up to 4½ cups a day. While you might think that by buying a less expensive option (or Blue Buffalo) you're saving money. The exact opposite is true. Because you're feeding your dog less Orijen, you aren't buying it as often, saving you money. To put this into perspective, my 120 lb American Akita gets 2¾ cups of Orijen a day. There's also treats to be had, but they don't figure into his diet. If he was put on Blue Buffalo, he'd have to get upwards of 6 cups of food a day.

Training: You're going to want to put that dog into training classes. At PetSmart, these classes run $119 per "semester". This is most likely going to be the most expensive thing you do, outside of vet care and feeding. But it's a necessary thing, and you'll have a well adjusted dog. You won't need any one-on-one training, if you proof what they teach you in the classes, and you can add stuff later on. As long as the training is calm, firm, and with confidence, the Shiba will flourish.

As far as how to walk this dog. Don't bother with harnesses, head collars, or anything like that. It's only going to tell them that pulling is fine. A properly sized, properly fitted, properly placed Martingale collar, and a 4' leash is all you'll need. Do not use a retractable leash. These things are death sentences to dogs. I've seen it for myself, and I don't care to elaborate, it's just too brutal.

Naturally, there's toys to consider. Kong makes the best toys on the planet for your dog. Remember that. I still have a green squeaky ring that my dog has had since the day we brought him home. It has holes big enough for me to stick my thumb into. It still squeaks. Also, anything unstuffed will do. Mainly because they'll destroy any stuffed toy you give them, and while it's amusing to watch, the cleanup is a pain.

You say you're up for the challenge. It's a long road, and you'll eventually understand the same thing I do. Training never ends. There's always one more thing, one more 'stay', one more recall, one more 'sit' to be proofed. But it isn't hard. Shiba's (and Spitz breeds in general) are incredibly intelligent, and very responsive to those who are willing and able to take charge of any situation.

How to deal with shedding: constant brushing outside, lots of vaccumming.

What size crate: literally the biggest you can find, and even that likely won't be big enough once they are fully grown. If you're going to get a puppy I recommend the "life stages" crate as it has a moveable internal wall so you can gradually expand up to the full crate size as the puppy (more quickly than you think can be possible) grows into it: [link]