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DrTim’s Aquatics Ammonium Chloride Solution for Fishless Cycling: 2 oz., Treats 100 gal. – Fish Tank Cleaner for Saltwater, Freshwater & Reef Aquariums?
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Then it was likely just widely different water parameters. Anyways if you want to seed ammonia I recommend this 6$ thing off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MP4QG6/ . Yeah it's a smallish container compared to what you can buy in stores, but finding straight ammonia is pretty hard. (Alot of them have soap and crap in them). This stuff works pretty good for seeding it. Im currently cycling two 10g with it right now.
Also throwing fish in to seed ammonia is being impatient lol. You're risking fish for the benefit of not having to wait 3-6 weeks.
If you're ordering off amazon, I would just get Dr. Tim's ammonia because you'll know for sure that it's safe.
Plants will also absorb ammonia, so they will compete with the nitrifying bacteria for food. If you have a ton of plants, you'll want to keep a close watch on the ammonia concentration.
Get this on amazon and follow the instructions to get ammonia in the tank. In addition add any kind of bottled bacteria to jump start the cycle.
It’s possible! I’ve had similar stuff happen. But the only way to know for sure is to put actual ammonia in there and test it. Most people say 1ppm/day ammonia removal (with no nitrate spike) means it’s cycled.
Or test your tap water, and if you find it has ammonia (lots of public suppliers use chloramine to keep water clean, which shows up on our tests and is available to the bacteria as ammonia), do a big water change. Check it 24 hrs later; if 0ppm, it’s cycled
You can get ammonia on amazon or at a hardware or grocery store (with the cleaners). Make sure it’s only got ammonia in it.
Ok so what you're saying is to add pure ammonia in the water and check the levels everyday until ammonia and nitrite reach 0? Then the tank is cycled?
Well for now what I did was shake the filter media from the other tank, until the bottle of ammonium chloride comes in.
This is the bottle I got: Here
Also, since it's been around a week or so since I setup the tank should I add more API QuickStart or no?
No, don't get fish or shrimp. If you want to speed up the process, you can get a bottle of ammonia and it'll accomplish the same thing. Better even, since you won't have to constantly do water changes to keep the fish or shrimp alive.
A lot of information has always been given, but using ammonium chloride to cycle your tank goes a lot faster than using fish food. You need to wait for fish food to decompose which also pollutes the water.
You can use this method with plants but not with any livestock.
I used Dr. Tim’s ammonium chloride but there are other options.
https://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-Ammonium-Chloride-Solution/dp/B006MP4QG6
You can also use pure, non scented ammonia from the cleaning aisle at any store but this stuff is formulated specifically to be tank safe.
The bacteria from the starter cultures/bottles you add need ammonia as a food source. If they don’t get any, they die off and your cycling will fail.
The fastest way is to add pure ammonia to the tank and either get starter culture of bacteria (from another tank such as sponge or filter media) or try the bottled stuff.
I used Dr Tim’s Ammonium Chloride over regular ammonia from the cleaning aisle. I took some bio media from my other canister filter and used a bottle of starter culture and the tank cycled in a few weeks. You have to keep adding in a source of ammonia to feed the bacteria if you aren’t going to stock right away when the cycle is complete.
I haven't had any experience with nutrafin product so I can't say much, but I'm sure it'll work similar. Looks like nutrafin cycle is bottled bacteria.
Here's the Dr Tim's Ammonia, basically a food for bacteria.
I’ve been using Dr. Tim’s Aquatics Ammonium Chloride Aquarium Treatment for Fishless Cycling to add Ammonia, but the only bacteria I’ve added is in the Stress Zyme. Is there a specific kind of bacteria I should add? I haven’t added any more ammonia after the first time cause it’s never gotten below 2.
Oh no tropical fish are basically the same just with the addition of a heater. Different species of tetra may school together but it would be the exception not the rule. Plus a 10 gallon is really only big enough for 1 school of 8-10 fish, 2 would be pushing the limit and id advise to stock lightly for your first try.
Live plants can be a little tricky but like fish there are hardier species available (java fern, guppy grass etc). Floating plants are also great as they can take in atmospheric co2 so grow faster than submersed plants, assuming youre not planning to inject co2. This increases their ability to remove nitrates from the water and fish always look better with a background of plants imo.
I forgot to add in my first comment, when you cycle youll want to do a fishless cycle as that way you wont harm any fish in the process. For that youll need a liquid test kit to test the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels (a lot of people recommend the api master test kit) and some source of ammonia like this.
I think it's easier to add Dr. Tim's ammonia for a fishless cycle.
Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MP4QG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
On mine it gives instructions right on the bottle for how much to add. Much easier than fish food.
Thanks. I found this stuff on amazon which I think I might use but not sure how much I’ll actually need.
I think I’ll just play it safe and start my own. What is this seed you’re referring to? I can’t find it listed anywhere. Is it safe to add live plants during this or should I add them at end when I’m adding the fish? I thought of starting the tank with live plants right off the bat during the cycle process.
Yeah new tank, new tanks will have 0 ammonia nitrite and nitrate - all zero.
Add 2-3ppm of ammonia, I used this DrTim's Aquatics - Ammonium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Your pH is fine, as long as the pH stays stable and isnt off the charts itll be good
By the end of your cycling you’ll want to see 0ppm ammonia and nitrites and then more than 0ppm nitrate! People usually aim for 5-10ppm and dont go over 20ppm. Thats why weekly water changes in a cycled tank are good
Best advice I can give you for your entire fish career is to never ever listen to the word of fish store employees. He didn't have to get a college degree in fishkeeping to work there, so you can't assume that the advice he has is out of date, uninformed, or just plain wrong.
If you don't do fishless cycling nothing will "naturally happen" to your tank. The ammonia is food for beneficial bacteria so without the food source, there will be no bacteria. Then when you introduce fish you will get a huge ammonia spike. He's basically trying to get you to do a fish-in cycle which is what all fish store employees want people to do. It's easier to explain so more convenient for them but it can be deadly for your fish. I've never met a fish store employee who has encouraged people to do fishless cycling.
This is what I used when I cycled my tank. It's really easy and has the dosage right on the bottle. You can also get any kind of janitorial strength ammonia at any hardware store. As long as it doesn't have any additives and doesn't foam when you shake it you should be good. You can also add fish flakes or a dead shrimp and let it rot, but that technique is a lot trickier to be accurate so I always recommend using liquid ammonia.
What I used to cycle was Dr. Tims Ammonia Chloride with any kind of live bottled bacteria. The liquid ammonia is a lot simpler than guessing with fish food. You should also have a liquid test kit, API Master kit is the best one.
Stock level is how many critters you have in the tank. Always add critters slowly, so the bacteria has time to catch up to the load.
The Ammonium Chloride is pure ammonia, is very cheap, and can be had from Amazon or Dr. Tim's
Instead of Tetra Safe Start, you should just seed your new filter with the current filter in your old tank. Don't take the whole thing out but piece of it placed in your new filter/tank should do fine.
for ammonia, there's always Amazon..
I haven't tried that stuff though, but probably safer than buying something online and hoping it doesn't have bad stuff in it.
I don’t know if you still need help with this but I’m in Canada and I used Dr. Tims ammonia. It’s super easy to dose and it worked well for my 10 gallon but it took two months to cycle fully. Probably because I’m really obsessive and had to make sure it was perfect. Anyways I got it on amazon for very cheap.
Hardware store, home depot, or amazon.
Personally when setting up my smaller betta tanks, I just add some cycled media from my 20gal and add the fish immediately. However my tanks are all heavily planted so I know they'll help absorb any initial ammonia spike.
I would recommend being safer and making sure the tank has an adequate bacteria colony before adding fish if you aren't experienced.
You really need to get real ammonia. You're going to be cycling forever with fish food, and even when it is cycled you'll have to stock slow as hell since it won't create a strong enough bacteria colony like cycling with pure ammonia at 4ppm will. Have you looked at hardware stores? If you're still unable to find it Dr. Tim's ammonium chloride is always an option
Are you adverse to buying online? https://www.amazon.ca/DrTims-Aquatics-830-Ammonium-chloride/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1464224598&sr=8-7&keywords=ammonia
There probably are cheaper/better options online but just a quick option for you that I came across.
You can use ammonia like this to cycle your aquarium, I wish that I had had some when i was starting mine.
You're looking for ammonium chloride (also comes in unmixed, powdered form). You don't need very much of it to get the cycle started. Like leveldrummer mentioned though, it's easy enough to get the cycle going just by adding in a bit of liverock.
I've read that Walmart's Great Value brand ammonia has extra stuff in it that you don't want to use. Ace Hardware brand ammonia is supposed to be safe though. Or if you wanna be super sure, there's Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride.
Wait until you get a 5 gal tank because you need to cycle it first anyway. Getting a betta now and putting him/her into the 2.5 isn't gonna help anything but put stress on the betta and you'll be forced to do a fish in cycle which is stressful for you and the fish.
Get these materials and do a fishless cycle. Whatever filter media in the 2.5, transfer it over to the 5 gal so it speeds the cycle up.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
You can have 1 nerite snail in a 5 gal (they poop a lot) or some 3-4 shrimp (amano shrimp are bigger and less likely to be eaten).
Live plants are always great. Either that or soft silk. But go for live if you can. The more, the merrier. Substrate can be gravel or sand. Then you can add root tabs and liquid ferts for certain plants.
Welcome to bettas!
Bettas need 5 gal min, filtered, heated, cycled. Anything above 5 gal is always good! The bigger the tank, the more stable it is and the less maintenance each week.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Please fishless cycle before getting a betta. 5-10 gal is enough for 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Soft silk or live plants. No plastic as it tears fins and injure body/eyes. Driftwood are great, so are tank safe rocks for hardscape.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Yes. I scaped and rescaped a bunch of times while fishless cycling. This is the best time to do it since there's no fish in there.
Rec you get liquid ammonia to dose, much easier, more accurate, less messy.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Some easy plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Welcome to bettas! So glad you came here! This can turn into quite an addictive hobby, albeit very relaxing once everything is up and running :)
>I'm still deciding between 10 and 20 gallons
- The bigger the tank the better. The more volume of water, the more stable and more room for errors. Petco's having their dollar per gal sale right now.
>What substrate should I use?
- I use gravel and use Flourish tabs and liquid ferts for my plants. You don't need nutrient rich substrate if you can supplement ferts for them based on what plants you have. I replenish root tabs every 3-4 months for my crypts. I dose liquid fert 2x/week after water changes.
>select plants and wood and rocks from my local forest or beach?
Not beach because it's saltwater, plants from there need a certain salinity to survive.
We don't typically rec you get plants from outside because they can harbor all kinds of hitchhikers that can harm your tank and your future betta and other stock. They would have to be dipped in bleach mix but most likely it would kill them as it's a strong mixture. I'll list info below on plants, r/aquaswap is a great place to go. I got my floating plants for a great price for the amount!
>What kind of filter should I use? What is a low enough filter flow so the betta will not be fighting the current?
You can go with a hang on back or sponge. Hang on back like Aquaclear 20 or bigger has plenty of space for filter media in its compartment. You wanna shoot for 2x the tank size in filtration. You'll need to baffle hobs since they can be quite strong even with it dialed down. I have a hob that came with my TopFin starter kit, it's worked great so far, and they do sell them separately for a fair price. I'll list below how to baffle it.
Sponge filter materials available on Amazon: sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Set up diagram
>If I keep some tankmates with the betta, (tetras, shrimp, plecos) do they need any special treatment that the betta does not?
10 gal is good for 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates.
20 gal you can have rasboras and cories, or kuhli loaches. They eat different things, so you'll need a variety of food for them. You can do some more research in that department if you plan on having them.
Plecos, even smaller species, need 30 gal min as they produce a lot of waste.
>Do I need to scrub the glass and hardscape or just change water? What kind of water?
You can scrub the glass with a new toothbrush dedicated to the tank (never use soap on anything that touches the tank), or a magfloat or both. I use both. It helps get algae off the glass or other marks and detritus.
You can also scrub the hardscape if you want each week if they grow algae on there or leave it for your shrimp and snail to take care of. Clip plants when needed, when they're dead/dying and dispose.
Tap water dosed with a dechlorinator before it goes in the tank is good enough. Make sure to temp match it, use a thermometer and adjust the faucet as necessary.
>Do they need light?
Lighting is mainly for our pleasure and the plants. So yes if you're gonna have plants, a light is needed. But so is a timer. 6hrs/day max to get started so you don't run into an algae ridden tank.
Nicrew lights are good. Century Digital timer works well.
>Do I need a lid? Or will a net work aswell?
Yes a lid is needed, bettas are avid jumpers.
You can keep a small, soft net around. But you prob won't ever use it unless you really need to. Nets can damage fish slime coat.
>north east USA, near the border with Canada, so it gets quite cold here during the winter. Does that change anything?
- Yes you need a heater. Adjustables preferable as they're reliable and useful in times of illnesses. Bettas need 78-80F. Highly rec the Aqueon Submersible adjustable heater. 100w for 10 gal, 150w for 20 gal.
>(I will cycle the tank before getting fish, but I'm still not 100% confident on how to do so)
Here you go:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food: feed your betta high quality foods with variety:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants!
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Nothing will instant cycle a tank. Please fishless cycle, this takes 2-6 weeks.
Get the API Freshwater Master kit, strips are inaccurate.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
All foods can be found at chain stores and/or local fish stores:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
>10L tank to house the betta I have plus maybe a few more friends for my betta that can actually live with it.
10 gal long or 10 liters? If the latter, you need to get a min of 20 liters (5 gal). 10 liters would be too small.
At 5-10 gal, tankmates are snail/shrimp.
>filters(sponge or just on the top?)decor and live plants( feel free to send pictures)
I use a hang on back filter that came with my tank kit. It's worked well as it has lots of room for media. You can go with a tank kit that includes a filter. Or a standalone tank, but you need a lid, filter, and adjustable heater.
Sponge filters work fine and are gentle for bettas. You can also baffle a hang on back to make it gentle.
>Also what’s the best way to transition the betta into the new tank?
You need to fishless cycle the tank first which takes 2-6 weeks without any stock in the tank. You feed the tank with ammonia and go through the spikes in nitrites and nitrates.
Here's what I rec for getting your tank ready:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY and 5 gal bucket for water changes
As for plants, the more the merrier. Bettas enjoy plants to rest, explore, hide, etc.
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Yes filter needs to be on 24/7 with good media like Aquaclear sponges, Fluval foam, biomax media.
Heater should be on.
Get Dr. Tim's ammonia or pure ammonia from a hardware store (ammonium chloride as only ingredient). Fish food is messy and inaccurate.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Looking great!
If this is your first setup, you need to fishless cycle which takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
>have put my old decor, plants and an old filter cartridge in the new tank,
Your filter cartridge is the reason why. This holds lots of beneficial bacteria.
But you do need to get the API Freshwater Master Kit ($23 Petsmart online and they'll price match). Strips are inaccurate.
I would wait until you get the materials to check out if it's cycled or not. I would use liquid ammonia instead of fish food so it's accurate to dose to 2ppm, and not messy or stinky.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
What size tank?
What kind of filter?
Here's info and materials about fishless cycling:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
* Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
The more plants the better. Bettas love a heavily planted tank.
>Are there cheaper brands of substrate, for example, that you find work just as well as the most expensive, top rated ones?
You can get whatever's at the chain store by Topfin or Imagitarium. Go for natural colors, not crazy colors. Do beige or black works.
If you want, more expensive one is the CaribSea Peace River which is a fine gravel. I've used it and loved it. It's easy to clean, and planting is easy peasy. I'll list some plants below.
>What DIY tips do you have?
- How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
I also made a floating log out of craft mesh. It's easy, cheap and my betta loved it. You can YT the tutorials.
Please fishless cycle before getting a betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
All foods can be found at chain stores and/or local fish stores:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Make sure you fishless cycle first before getting a betta.
Filter holds your cycle so yes it stays on 24/7. Adjustable heater will keep the tank at optimal temp of 78-80F so yes on. It'll turn on only when it needs to.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
You can add bottled bac each day to the filter. Has worked for me in the past.
Yes you do need to cycle it beforehand. This is a good chance to plant the tank, and watch it grow in. Lmk if you want live plant recommendations.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Highly agree with Dr. Tim's. It's way easier, accurate way to do it.
Here are some tips:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Cycling actually takes 2-6 weeks before you get a fish. And bettas need 5 gal min. 1 gal isn't enough and would build up ammonia which burns him and poisons him.
I'm sorry for your loss.
But if you want another one, read up on fishless cycling, nitrogen cycle, etc to provide your next betta a wonderful life.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30. OR Right now, Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
>was bare, just water, filter, and me using seachem start up stuff. I added CaribSea flora max as my substrate today and used an API test kit.
- If you haven't added ammonia and never went through the nitrite and nitrate spikes, you're not cycled. You're not even started.
>My nitrates were 20ppm, nitrites 0ppm, ph 7, KH 80ppm, and gh 60ppm.
Please get the API Freshwater Master Kit to test with. Strips are inaccurate and also do not measure ammonia.
Start by testing your source water for all 4 params to get a baseline.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
I rec you use pure ammonia to dose. Fish food is messy, stinky and inaccurate to get to 2ppm. Fishless cycle guide
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Hi and welcome to bettas!
After the cycle, yes 1x/week water changes, possibly 2 depending on your stock and parameters. 5 gallon can have snail/shrimp as tankmates but for now focus on fishless cycling.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants-->Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 7am-10am, off, on 7pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food-->NorthFin Pellets, or Fluval Bug Bites for small fishor Betta Bites, New Life Spectrum. Fast 1 day a week. Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then you can supplement with frozen bloodworms and mysis and brine shrimp. Use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. Cut one cube out, then open, cut a small slice, soak in a small spoon (dedicated to the tank) of tank water and feed a few pieces, and toss the rest if any in the spoon. The rest of the cube goes back in the freezer for use for about 1-2 weeks, then break out a new cube. Ex: Feed pellets in the AM, then frozen at night a few times a week to give variety. Then pellets in the AM and PM for the rest of the week.
There are a few different ways. The big thing is getting a nice dose of ammonia in there. I struggled with cycling my tank at first too. I tried fish food. Nope. Guppies. Nope. Finally bought aquarium ammonia (Dr. Tim’s Aquatics Ammonium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) and that did the trick! Once I added that, things took off much better!
So dose the water with that and give it a few days. Watch your ammonia and nitrite levels because eventually ammonia will start to drop but nitrite will go up. This is a good thing! Then your nitrites will start to drop and your nitrates will go up. You’ll want to do a 25% water change at the point when your nitrates get high. Then add more ammonia.
Keep doing this process over a period of a few weeks. The goal is for the ammonia to be turned to nitrite and then to nitrate in 24 hours.
Do you have a good water test kit? Not strips but the little test tubes that you mix? This one is great. API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit, White, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TRNRFSZMJXSPK85G8VGK
Get liquid ammonia, like Dr. Tim's or pure ammonia. Fish food is an inaccurate, messy, stinky way to cycle a tank.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Spiderwood, Mopani, malaysian, manzanita. Any of those work. Do sand them all over and boil for 2 hrs before use. They will float unless they're heavy like mopani. So you can soak them in a bucket till they're waterlogged or wedge them down with some tank safe rocks (river stones are fine).
To check: scratch the surface and pour white vinegar on it, if the rock fizzes, do not use. If it doesn't, you can wash it in 1 part white vinegar and 4 parts hot water rinse. Rinse until it the smell dissipates.
Yes I recommend liquid ammonia. It is much faster and more accurate.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Soft silk or live plants. Plastic tears fins and injure body/eyes.
Do a water change to lower the ammonia to 2ppm. This is plenty for most betta tanks to cycle through. Too much can stall the cycle.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
All foods can be found at chain stores and/or local fish stores:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
>will this heater be strong enough?
It should be yes. Is it adjustable? I used the 100W Aqueon adjustable heater for my 10 gal. Petsmart price matches Chewy.com price.
>Second, will that filter be okay?
Filter is perfect. Had the same one.
- How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
>Should I get an air stone?
No need to. I just use floating plants like dwarf water lettuce and salvinia minima on top. Grows beautiful roots and makes the betta feel safer.
Please fishless cycle before getting a betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Not my idea but thanks! It comes from Gary Lange, the worlds renowned Rainbow breeder.
Don't worry about messing with the cycle in your 30! You should clean your sponges in the filters regularly, so just think of this as a good cleaning. No need to clean the bio media, and there are tons of bacteria living on the glass, substrate, plants, fish, etc!
Food is a so-so way of dosing the ammonia. I'd recommend Dr Tims Ammonia, its a very easy and precise way to dose the tank with ammonia. I think you can get it in 1 day with amazon prime. amazon prime has a free 30 day trial, and you can keep using it repeatedly with new emails... shhhh ;)
If you have spiked nitrites and 0 ammonia, you may want to consider doing a water change in there. Nitrite over 5ppm is known to stall the cycle, and the 0 ammonia means your newly formed ammonia-eating bacteria (nitrsomonas) have no food. Here is a good guide on cycling your tank, but you probably won't need to do anything if you seed the tank with dirty water from the 30!
Hi and welcome to bettas! Let's take 1 thing at a time. The first and most important is adequate sized tank, filtered, heated of 5 gal or more.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
And to fishless cycle it before getting any betta or livestock. This makes the environment healthy for the future betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Onto your other questions:
>Can I mix and match any of the plants that are betta safe?
Yes you can. Easy plants are fine to mix. I had about 6+ species in my tank but I'm addicted to plants so...haha I will include a long list below for you!
For lighting, I highly recommend Nicrew Sky LED (Amazon), with a timer ofc. Consistency is key.
>How would I efficiently clean the tank with live plants without having to uproot and replant? How often do I need to actually clean the tank vs water changes?
Gently gravel vac. Some plants can be moved around like anubias and java fern as their rhizomes cannot be buried. Others will root and you just gently go over the top of substrate around them. Any debris that sink, they can use it as fertilizer.
Water changes are 1x/week for 5 gal and up if cycled. 10-30% are plenty. Cleaning is water changes, you can do a deeper clean once a month at 50% and rinse decor, filter media in old tank water you take out. Never tap because it kills beneficial bacteria killing your cycle.
>Could I add other critters to make the cleaning more self sufficient?
Any critters you add will add waste. Everything poops. If you get a 10 gal or more you can add amano shrimp, they're great algae eaters and won't reproduce in freshwater. And they're super fun, so much personality. Once you see them smack each other for food, you'll be addicted haha.
Marksshrimptank YT has tons of tutorials on how to acclimate shrimp, and food, etc. I like Bacter AE for them (just a toothpick tip once or twice a week is plenty!), Shrimp King sticks sample pack lasts a longgg time, also 1-2x/week is plenty, break the stick up to tiny pieces, one stick should last a long time. Blanched veggies like cucumbers, spinach, kale, zucchini are good too. Only leave food in for a few hours then use a turkey baster and take it out so it doesn't rot.
>Tannins????
Yes! Absolutely. Great for bettas, really brings out their colors, cozy looking, has stress reducing and antibacterial/fungal benefits.
Indian Almond leaves work well. I also used organic noncaffeinated Rooibos tea if I want it dark quick. Tea bags are easy to pop in and let it run into the tank water.
>How would I test the water to make sure it’s safe for the plants and betta? What would I even be looking for? (I know pH and nitrate levels are a couple)
API Freshwater Master kit ($24 Chewy.com and Petsmart will price match. Petco has it also). You can also grab the API gh and kh test, same dropper bottle style. Good to have on hand.
Food:
All foods can be found at chain stores and/or local fish stores:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Anything else, feel free to ask!
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
5 gal min is correct. 10 gal min for plakats (short finned) and honestly anything bigger is perfect as it's so much easier to heat, filter, cycle and keep it stable.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Decor: smooth decor, no sharp edges, no small holes where the betta can get stuck. Driftwood like spiderwood, Mopani, malaysian, manzanita are great, boil 2 hrs and soak in a bucket to get waterlogged before use.
Tank safe rocks- rinse well under tap, scrub well. Scratch the surface and pour vinegar over it, if it fizzes no good. If it doesn't, you can use it after cleaning it and soaking it in a bucket for a week. Check the pH of that water to see if it swings pH.
Plants: yes perfectly ok to put into a cycling tank. I scaped and rescaped a few times while fishless cycling.
A fish bowl is never suitable for any sort of aqautif creature. Make sure you have a filter, and a heater isn’t mandatory but good if you have cold winters and falls, goldfish prefer cooler water temperatures anyways. I would say splurge on a 40 gallon or find one second hand (cheap). But some times that takes time to save up because aquariums can be a bit expensive. If they don’t survive, it’s going to be okay, but don’t give up on your dreams of owning an aquarium, everyone who starts an aquarium has killed a fish or a few fish before. I killed 12 before I wrapped my head around the basics and finally asked questions and bought the right supplies. But it’s worth it in the end, just research a lot. After you get the test kit (never buy test strips they get damaged over time by moisture and temp and light and will give you false readings), be prepared for the ammonia to spike, like up to 8 ppm (particles per million). Your job is going to be doing 50-75 percent water changes everyday and religiously testing the water multiple times a day. But never ever do a 100 percent change. If the fish die, you could technically use their bodies to cycle it Bc they’ll rot and produce ammonia (rlly sad so I wouldn’t recommend this), but if u wanna go with the faster route, purchase aquarium ammonia dr time, and cycle your tank with ammonia drops info on cycling. The petstore industry is the absolute worst, they sell you whatever they can because they want money. Here is more links for you fish in cycle, goldfish care sheet , do’s and don’ts . Those are articles I think would be a good read.
Fill the tank up to hit the outflow of the filter then baffle that filter.
- How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Then get another heater, 50W Aqueon adjustable heater works well (Petsmart price matches Chewy.com). Presets are unreliable.
Those silicone decor often leach into the water causing issues. You should switch them out for soft silk or live plants. Tons of easy live plants out there like Anubia and Java Fern which can be attached to the decor or left floating. No need to plant them.
If you don't have the fish yet, please fishless cycle. It takes 2-6 weeks to make the tank safe for stock.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
I say fishless cycle the 20 because it'll be less headache in the long run.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
As for the 5, just keep doing what you're doing. It might cycle before the 20 which means you can take the media and put it over to the 20 filter to help it along.
Use Stability and/or Tetra Safestart plus as your beneficial bacteria blend each day to dose into the filter. Helps it along.
The 20 will be fine with lots of live plants. If you want tankmates, it's def big enough for cories, rasboras, and/or kuhlis.
Here are some plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these. .
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Yes it takes 2-6 weeks. Mine took 2.5 so it just depends but it is the most humane thing to do. Also gives you time to scape, rescape, etc. And no big headaches in the future once it's cycled and ready for stock.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Edit: take the el nino fern out of the substrate. The rhizome (horizontal part where stems come out of) can't be buried or they'll rot. Attach to decor/driftwood. Same goes for Anubias and Bucephalandra
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
What's your temp?
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You need a heater. Is this a fishless cycle? Cold temps is gonna prolong the process.
If ammonia is too high, it will stall the cycle. Aim for 2ppm for 5 gal.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Put it in the water directly.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Grab Dr. Tim's ammonia or pure ammonia (ammonium chloride as only ingredient).
Do a partial wc to lower nitrites and redose ammonia to 2ppm.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
I rec you get liquid ammonia if you can. Much easier and more accurate.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You can put everything in except for fish ofc. This lets the live plants melt then regrow.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You need to feed it ammonia in order for it to get started and build beneficial bacteria. Leaving it won't do any good.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>w a 25w heater.
Grab the 50W Aqueon Submersible adjustable heater if you have it available where you are. 50W adjustable is great for a 5 gal. Presets can be unreliable.
>fish food to add some ammonia for starting the cycle.
Go get liquid ammonia, fish food is messy, stinky, and inaccurate to use.
>have an API test kit i’ll use next week to see where i’m at but does this seem like it will be a happy home for a betta?
Yes it looks like it. Make sure your ornament is not rough nor sharp. No small spaces a betta could get stuck in. They're very curious.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Cycling a 2.5 is gonna be difficult. It's small. It will need 2-3x/week water changes after it cycles. It also doesn't give the betta enough room to swim. After you add the filter, heater, substrate, decor, you're really left with 1 gal or less even of water. This is unstable.
If you could get a 10 gal soon, I would wait until then. Then you can give your betta a wonderful home straight off the bat instead of a small tank that will cause headaches. They're also more prone to nipping their own fins in smaller tanks as it's limited swimming space.
As for fishless cycling, rec you get Dr. Tim's ammonia or pure ammonia (ammonium chloride as only ingredient). It is easier, more accurate, less messy and stinky than fish food.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Remember to fishless cycle beforehand:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Alright good.
Here's info: read through the links it breaks it down for you and tips below as well:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Np!
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Fishless cycle first. This makes sure your tank is healthy for the future betta. This can take 2-6 weeks. See if you can get these materials or the equivalent:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Bettas love plants, so go for soft silk or live.
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
For Fluval, you can cap it with sand or not. Up to you. It can leach nutrients and spike parameters for a while if not capped iirc. I wouldn't do gravel because it doesn't hold plants very well imo.
IALs, you can get via Amazon.
Plants:
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
You'll need to fishless cycle ofc. Here are the materials I used and tips that helped me cycle mine:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Food:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Something I wish someone had told me before I set up my first tank was to try to create low/high elevations with the substrate to add depth to your scape. This article from Aquasabi is a great read!
I'd also recommend using an aquarium specific ammonia for cycling like this, it makes life so much easier. If you do go with that brand I linked be wary of their dosing instructions though, try adding some ammonia to the tank, leave it for 10-20 minutes, then test the water and add more as needed.
When you say you have live wood, do you mean that it's fresh? I'm not certain on this, but I think you generally want to add wood that has already dried out because fresh wood can have sap and organisms in it that you don't want in your tank. I could be wrong on that though.
The type of light you have will make a big difference in what plants you can grow, but I'd definitely recommend some floating plants like Amazon Frogbit or Salvinia Minima. Floaters soak up nitrates and shrimp love to graze on their roots.
You should grab liquid ammonia because fish food method is difficult to get to 2ppm of ammonia. It's also stinky and messy. I would do a thorough gravel vac to get it out then get:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
'Pure ammonia' is best. This is designed specifically for aquarium use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=twister\_B09WBVH5VT
Check your local fish store and/or chain stores near you.
No fish tankmates as a 10 gal is too small for those. Snail/shrimp is fine.
Here's how to fishless cycle before you get any livestock:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
There are no downsides to dosing ammonia, and in fact it is using fish food that has a downside.
For more info, see here: https://www.sosofishy.com/post/a-short-and-long-guide-to-aquarium-cycling.
You can get ammonia that is suitable for use for cycling quite easily from Amazon, for example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6/.
What's in your filter? What kind of filter media?
I would turn the heater up to 82-84F, bacteria grows faster in higher temps. If your heater isn't adjustable, switch to one as adjustable is much more convenient.
I would also get liquid ammonia to dose. Much more accurate and less mess/stink.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Test your tap water for all parameters for a baseline. Some tap has nitrates in it.
You need to feed the tank with ammonia. Dr. Tim's ammonia works well. It needs to be 2ppm.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Adding Prime doesn't do much to the levels. Prime is a dechlorinator and can help bind the parameters, keeping your fish safe esp during fish in cycling or a spike in the cycle. Otherwise, it doesn't lower parameters.
Nitrites at 5ppm is way too high and will stall the cycle. Do a 50% water change to get it down to 2ppm, then leave it. You can add bottled bacteria like Seachem Stability and/or Tetra Safestart plus to help speed it up.
After it's zeroed out, dose ammonia to 1-2ppm, then leave it for 24 hrs, the retest. If ammonia and nitrites are at 0 when 24 hrs are up, and there are presence of nitrates-you are cycled.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
I would cycle the tank first before putting another betta in there. This takes 2-6 weeks, and will make sure your tank is healthy and strong for a new betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
What size tank is it?
>planning on getting a couple of guppy’s just to kick start the tank
Do not use guppies or any other livestock to cycle the tank. This is unnecessary and cruel as they get ammonia poisoning, etc. Fishless cycle the way to go.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
All foods can be found at chain stores and/or local fish stores:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Feeding frozen: Cut 1 cube out. Take just a small sliver off. Soak that sliver in tank water in a spoon or container dedicated to the tank. Feed 3-4 pieces or so. Dispose the rest down the sink. Rinse everything off. While the sliver thaws, wrap the cube in a paper towel, write the date opened on it and slip it in the freezer right away. Use for 1-2 weeks then break out a new one.
Sorry to say but it's most likely that the tank is still not cycled. Cycled tank should not show any ammonia or nitrite as they will be constantly converted to nitrate (less harmful substance) by the mature bacteria culture.
At this point, I would not add anything to the tank. Let the tank culture itself with remaining ammonia. You can still check water parameter using API water test kit, and keep monitoring the level of ammonia. If ammonia is too low, it will stall the cycling process, so you can add little fish food to let it rot and release ammonia, or add pure ammonia drops like Dr. Tims ammonia (https://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-Ammonium-Chloride-Solution/dp/B006MP4QG6). Try keeping ammonia to less than 2.0ppm. Only change water if nitrate is off the chart high, you can do 50%-80% water change to knock down the nitrate (don't worry about bacteria, they are attached on substrate or a wall, not free floating)
No, they don’t. Here’s one on Amazon, bit more expensive at $6 US.
Rec Seachem Stability and/or Tetra Safestart plus as your beneficial bacteria.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
No. Do this:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Please fishless cycle before getting any fish. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Get soft silk or live plants. Plastic tears fins and injure body/eyes.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
>set to 80°F (too high?)
Nope. 80 is perfect. You'll want it higher for fishless cycling..
>aquarium salt
Do not add salt to the main tank. It's unnecessary and can kill your plants.
>least 24 hours before purchasing a fish (longer?).
Fishless cycling takes 2-6 weeks. A fish is 24 hrs is a no go.
>tested the water with a test strip just to have a comparison, but have read that a lot of fish owners on here advise against the strips, so I will be buying the test tube ones and testing before adding a betta.
You need the API Freshwater Master kit to test ($24 Petsmart online and they'll price match. Petco has it also) right now. You need it to fishless cycle correctly. Do not wait to get it.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Your tank looks great! Just fishless cycle thoroughly.
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Most stores say that so you get their products and fish in the same day. Don't listen to them. Fishless cycling is the way to go.
For a 5 gal you only have 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates. Other fish need 15-20 gal. If this is your first betta tank, focus on the betta first.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Soft silk or live plants work best:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
It'll be fine. You need an ammonia source though. If you use any type of food, put it into some nylons and tie it up. Then put it in the tank and watch till ammonia goes to 2ppm. This is a stinky way to do it, that's why we rec liquid ammonia. It's much more accurate.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
This is why I highly rec liquid ammonia as your source. It's not messy nor smelly and it's way more accurate.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Rec you vacuum what you can out, and start with liquid ammonia.
>good Beginner live plants?
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
>how long should plants and tank be set up and left to settle before fish?
Fishless cycling takes 2-6 weeks. You need to actively feed it ammonia, not just leave it.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>what fish are hardy and Betta community friendly?
10 gal is enough for 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates. Any other fish need 15-20 gal min as they come in shoals of 6 min.
>do community fish come first or Betta?
No community fish. If you get snail/shrimp, prob best to introduce them first so when the betta comes, hopefully won't be as aggressive.
>absolute essential gear for this type of tank/Recommendations
See above list for fishless cycling. Also food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Decor like driftwood (spiderwood, mopani, manzanita, etc), live plants, are great to have always. Meds like Paraguard, Prazipro, API Gen Cure, Kanaplex, API Erythromycin, Polyguard are good to have on hand as well.
>types of bottom soil and structures
You don't need soil for a beginner tank. This makes things a bit more difficult. Normal gravel or sand will do just fine growing plants. Terracotta pots work well for hiding spots, floating betta logs (I make them out of craft mesh, YT has tutorials).
You'll need ammonia to start the cycle. Plants won't do much except suck up some excess nutrients if you have enough of them that is.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
It'll take 2-6 weeks to cycle through.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Fishless cycling needs ammonia to get it going, and to cycle it through. Letting it sit will not do anything. You also need your own test kit. The API Freshwater Master kit to test ($24 Petsmart online and they'll price match. Petco has it also).
You need an ammonia source, rec liquid ammonia as it's much easier to dose accurately. Fishless cycling takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>Should I decorate the tank before or after?
Before. You can plan the scape out on a piece of cardboard the width of the tank. Scape how you want them put it in the tank and see if you need or want to adjust. It's easier to do this before any fish is in the tank, or any water.
>What’s the easiest way to do it? I’ve bought pure ammonia and have test strips on the way. Anything I can do to accelerate the process?
Strips can be inaccurate and do not test for ammonia. You need the API Freshwater Master kit to test ($24 Petsmart online and they'll price match. Petco has it also).
Using Stability and/or Tetra Safestart plus as your beneficial bacteria can help it along. It'll take 2-6 weeks regardless.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>Any underrated equipment you wish you had when starting out? (I’ve got the filter, heater, vacuum, and betta safe decorations ready to buy once the cycling process is close)
Make sure you have a thermometer. Either glass or digital that stays in the tank to measure accurate temp.
If your lid has a gap for the filter and heater, get some craft mesh and cut it out to match the gaps and tape it down. Bettas will jump through the smallest gaps. YT has tutorials. Also, the craft mesh can be made into a betta log, yt has tutorials too.
>Will I need to install tank lights as well? Or will fluorescent and natural lighting suffice?
If you want live plants, then yes. Def install a tank light and get a timer as well.
>Finally what is best to put at the bottom of the tank? I’ve seen beads over gravel as it’s safer for the bettas fins but haven’t looked enough into that yet. Amy beads in particular?
Just gravel or sand is fine. Beads are a waste of money and anything big makes it difficult to gravel vac anyway. It's about 2lbs/1 gal to get 1.5-2" depth.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
You need to cycle the tank. You need to feed it ammonia to get it going. Right now, your tank is still uncycled. Nitrates should be 5-10ppm for safe levels in a cycled tank, not 0.
Pygmies need at least a 10 gal, 15 preferable as they need shoals of 6. You could do 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates instead.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You need to cycle the tank. You need to feed it ammonia to get it going. Right now, your tank is still uncycled. Nitrates should be 5-10ppm for safe levels in a cycled tank, not 0.
Pygmies need at least a 10 gal, 15 preferable as they need shoals of 6. You could do 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates instead.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You need an ammonia source or else your cycle will not start nor cycle correctly.
The API Freshwater Master kit is $24 at Petsmart online and they'll price match. Petco has it also.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Hi and welcome to bettas!
>what kinds of plants work well with beta fish? i’ve had plants in with my fancies and they seem to destroy them after a week.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
>what kind of substrate is good for them? i know little rock’s get stuck in their mouth and they can choke so is sand okay?
Sand or normal gravel. I like CaribSea Peace River gravel, fine gravel. Or just sand from the pet store works fine. Topfin, Imagitarium. It's about 2lbs/gal to 1.5-2" depth.
>if i do do the planted tank, do i just cycle and wait for the perimeters to be good like normal or do i cycle and then plant and wait for it to re adjust itself?
Plant and scape it before you start cycling so you don't have to mess with it again. If you do, it's fine since there will be no fish in there.
>are betas okay with mystery snails or would they try to attack them too? what other fish or animals are they okay with? i’m just looking at getting the beta at the moment and i think 20L is okay for just the one but if i decide to put it in a bigger tank i would like to know.
Mysteries grow big so we rec 10+ gal for 1. For a 5 gal, go for 1 betta and maybe 1 nerite snail. Snails poop a lot regardless of size.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Lmk if you have any questions or concerns, feel free to reach out!
This is what I rec to use for fishless cycling. It is accurate and makes sure the tank cycles completely through.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Fishless cycle takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Fishless cycling takes 2-6 weeks. You need to feed it ammonia, go through the process. Bacteria can help it along.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter. Check out local Craigslist and FB Mktplace for deals.
You'll need to make sure you have a good heater. The kits come with presets which aren't reliable.
Please fishless cycle before getting the fish.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Soft silk or live plants are best:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Dr. Tim’s Aquatics Ammonium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
5 gal min. The bigger the better.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter. Check out local Craigslist and FB Mktplace for deals.
Fishless cycle before getting a betta:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Meds/ other: Seachem Stressguard, Paraguard, Kanaplex, Polyguard. API Gen Cure or Prazipro.
You don't need to change the filter, just add filter media. Do this:
- Take the carbon cartridge out and cut the wool like material off of the plastic holder then stuff that back into the filter. The carbon pieces can go in the trash. Then add more media in the filter like Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, biomax bio rings. Carbon is used for removing meds, pollutants, odors and then replaced which crashes your cycle if there's no backup media. Rinse it in old tank water with each water change, never tap.
As for your cycle, it's just starting. You still have ammonia and no spikes of nitrite nor nitrates.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
That's not enough to get the cycle going nor cycle it through correctly. Use liquid ammonia.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
I rec getting rid of that plastic plant with the suction cup on the right side. A betta hammock or a diy craft mesh log works well, even plant aquarium cups work.
You need a heater rn so that bacteria can grow and thrive. Without one, you're looking at a long, tedious cycle.
Fishless or fish in?
If the former, you're close to being done. Towards the end, nitrites and nitrates spike.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You need to cycle the tank before getting any fish or other stock. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Our caresheet has tons of info.
Remember to fishless cycle before getting a betta. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Bettas like heavily planted tanks, avoid plastic plants as they tear fins and injure body/eyes.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
If you still have the goldfish tanks, take some of the media and add it over to the new tank. This will help kickstart the cycle.
It takes 2-6 weeks to fishless cycle.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
As for enrichment, bettas like heavily planted tanks. Driftwood works (sand down all rough spots), boil for 1-2 hrs and soak till waterlogged before introducing to the tank. You can also make your own betta log by using craft mesh (for sewing), YT has tutorials. My betta loved to hang out in his. Spending time with them daily as well.
Spare yourself the trouble and get liquid ammonia. Fish food is an inaccurate and messy way to dose ammonia.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>Do I cycle with just the filter & heater, and then add the gravel or sand and silk plants and decorations later? Or should I put all that stuff in too and then cycle?
Put it all in so you can scape, rescape, etc how you like it. Go for soft silk or live plants. Plastic tears fins and injure body/eyes.
Here's fishless cycling info and some tips:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>Should I get a 10 or 20 gallon tank for them?
Any other fish will need 20 gal with a betta, esp tetras. Gives them more room to swim, and they should be in shoals of 6 min.
Since you don't have any fish yet, get the tank, filter, heater, plants, driftwood, etc and fishless cycle. This is a good time to scape, rescape, and make the tank how you want it. It will take 2-6 weeks to fishless cycle.
After, I would add the embers first so when the betta comes in, he/she won't be as aggressive.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
You need to get liquid ammonia. Fish food is a mess and inaccurate way to get ammonia to the right level. I would aim for 2-3ppm for an 18 gal tank. Dr. Tim's ammonia works or pure ammonia (only ingredient is ammonium chloride) at the hardware store.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
That's not enough to get the cycle going most of the time. Fish food is an inaccurate way to get ammonia to 2ppm. Rec you get liquid ammonia (Dr. Tim's ammonia) and start the cycle.
You do not need to add salt ever. Freshwater tanks do not need salt, and do not dose it into the main tank. It builds up without manual removal, and can harm bettas once you get the fish in there. There's no need.
Get the API Freshwater Master kit to test with. And start the fishless cycle and cycle it through this time.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Here are some plants you can look at:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food for the betta:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
>Would they give me a used filter sponge to help with cycling if I asked?
They might if you ask. Some won't. You still need to fishless cycle it before getting any stock. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>Since bettas like peaceful waters and are curious I’ve heard you should attatch a sponge to the intake. Does that mean literally a regular kitchen sponge? Is there something special I need to buy?
You need to use a filter sponge, so no kitchen sponges. These are Aquaclear sponges or Fluval Foam.
>To go with the betta I was thinking ghost shrimp. Some sources say I should house 4-6 ghost shrimp others say 20. Is that possible?
I would do 3-4 shrimp for that tank size. But maybe amanos or cherries instead of ghost. They can be aggressive.
>Water test kit for ammonia and ph
The API Freshwater Master kit ($24 Petsmart online and they'll price match. Petco has it also) is the best to get.
>Lid with led lights
I would get a glass lid and separate aquarium lights with a timer. I love the Nicrew Sky LED. Century Timer is on Amazon too.
>plan to feed him twice a day with 3 pellets in the morning and ~1.8 grams of frozen food at night (defrosted in tank water in shot glass first.)
Feed these:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
1.8 grams is too much. At most feed the same amount of frozen pieces as pellets.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Do you have the betta yet?
>Like what order should I out everything in? Like gravel, water first then turn on filter? Then decorations and fish last?
Always rinse the gravel till it runs clear. Put ~1-1.5lbs/gal to get to 1.5-2" depth.
Decor goes in then fill it up. Put the filter in and heater in. Heaters have a minimum water line where they should be submerged to.
I would get a 50W Aqueon adjustable. Adjustables work better than presets. A 25W will not adequately heat a 7 gal.
>Also anyone have some tank/ filter recommendations? Looking for about 7 gallons. Also any water conditioning tips? Should I buy spring water and just condition it?
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter. Check out local Craigslist and FB Mktplace for deals.
Use tap with a conditioner like Prime (very concentrated and works well).
If you don't have the betta yet, you need to fishless cycle. This takes 2-6 weeks. In this time, you can scape, rescape, etc.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Recommend you replace plastic plants with soft silk or live. Plastic tears fins and injure body/eyes. There are tons of easy live plants out there.
You need to fishless cycle the tank. This takes 2-6 weeks before getting a betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Once your tank is cycled, you don't wanna do daily water changes. For a 5 gal, 1x/week is plenty.
Please do fishless cycle before getting a betta. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Hope that helps!
You don't. They're there to help agitate the surface which provides a bit more o2 but your filter agitating the surface should be plenty. Some people have it for looks or to help break up the film on the surface (esp true for betta tanks as their slow flow filter can cause an oily film on top).
You'll need some substrate if you don't have it already. Gravel or sand works. 1.5-2" depth is plenty, about 1-2lbs/gal. Go for natural colors, nothing crazy as it can chip and leach into the water.
Then some decor: driftwood is my fav, spiderwood, mopani, manzanita, etc. Boil for 1-2 hrs then soak till waterlogged. Sand down smooth all over also. With any decor, plug all holes as bettas can get stuck.
Plants: a well planted tank is betta paradise.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Here's fishless cycling info:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Get a glass lid. This will help cut down the evaporation.
You need liquid ammonia to start the cycle and feed the bacteria. Bottled bac won't do much unless you're feeding the bacteria. Get Dr. Tim's liquid ammonia.
Get the API Freshwater Master kit ($24 Petsmart online and they'll price match. Petco has it also). Strips are inaccurate and do not test for ammonia.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Get the 50W Aqueon adjustable heater. These have been reliable for me over the years. Get a thermometer (glass that suctions inside the tank or a digital with a probe that stays inside the tank).
You can use tap if you test it with the API Freshwater Master kit ($24 Petsmart online and they'll price match. Petco has it also) and everything turns out well. Just dechlorinate it with Seachem Prime before refilling the tank each time.
Boil the wood for 1-2 hrs then soak in a bucket of water until it waterlogs. Or weigh it down with some rocks if you're impatient.
Now onto fishless cycling: this takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Best of Iuck! Lmk if you have any questions/concerns, feel free to reach out!
I would take their advice with a grain of salt.
Get the test kit and test your tap first. Then continue the fishless cycle.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>Can a baby betta be raised with other baby Bettas?
If you want a sorority with just females, you need to get a sibling batch from a breeder. But sororities need 40 gal min, heavily planted, 5 girls min. They're difficult to keep and maintain.
Go for 1 betta.
>Are there other fish/ freshwater creatures that can be in the tank with the betta?
It depends on the tank size. Anything under 15-20 gal, stick to snail/shrimp.
>What size/ how many gallons should the tank/ bowl be?
5 gal min.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter. Check out local Craigslist and FB Mktplace for deals.
>What are some toys/ essential things to have in the tank to keep the Betta occupied/ happy?
Lots of plants, either soft silk or live. Plastic tears fins and injure body/eyes.
Please fishless cycle before getting the betta. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Rinse the substrate till it runs clean and clear. 1.5-2" depth is plenty. Put in your decor after you've rinsed them as well. Fill it up with dechlorinated water, put the heater and filter in. Get some media from your 2.5 from inside the filter and stuff it into the new filter. This will get the cycle started at least.
If you're not gonna put him in yet, then you can fishless cycle.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Head on over to r/bettafish!
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter. Check local Craigslist and FB Mktplace for deals.
You should fishless cycle it before getting a betta. This takes 2-6 weeks. Perfect time to learn about the nitrogen cycle, tank keeping in general. And to scape.
Never use plastic plants. They tear fins and injure body/eyes. Live plants are great. I'll list them below.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Get this if you can.
https://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-Ammonium-Chloride-Solution/dp/B006MP4QG6
With seachem stability you’ll be cycled in 3-5 days.
We need parameters in numbers.
What are you using as ammonia source?
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
It 100% depends on what’s in that solution. I personally wouldn’t risk it, and would use something specifically made for cycling
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PEFAQJSBPKZWVYZEFGK0
Welcome to bettas! Glad you're here!
We recommend 5 gal min, anything bigger is even better!
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
You'll need to fishless cycle it. This takes 2-6 weeks. Great time to scape your tank, rescape, and so on.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Go for soft silk or live plants. Tons of easy ones out there. Avoid plastic as it tears fins and can injure body/eyes.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food: good food with variety is key:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Things to have on hand also:
Seachem Stressguard, Kanaplex, Erythromycin, Prazipro, Furan 2. Just meds that you don't wanna be scrambling for if an emergency crops up.
Lmk if you have any questions/concerns, feel free to reach out!
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Welcome to bettas! All of those look good.
You'll need to fishless cycle, it will take 2-6 weeks. I'll link it below.
I would also get soft silk plants (they're cloth) or live. Avoid any plastic plants as they tear fins and injure body/eyes.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You got good pellets, I would also get other foods as supplements:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Welcome to bettas!
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
I'm so sorry for your loss.
Def make sure your tank is cycled before getting another betta. Also, do weekly maintainance and never skip a week without it.
Some info for you:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Please fishless cycle before getting the betta. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Decor: driftwood (spiderwood, mopani, manzanita, etc). Boil for 2 hrs and soak in a bucket with water to get waterlogged before use. Avoid plastic plants. Get soft silk or live. Tons of easy live plants out there.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
You need to do a 50% wc to keep nitrites at 2-3ppm, and nitrates below 80ppm or else it will stall the cycle.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Welcome to bettas!
>I plan on putting a small pleco with a betta in a 10 gallon tank, is this alright?
Plecos need 20 gal min for the smallest species. And much bigger for a lot of other species. 10 gal is enough for 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates. Focus on 1 betta first, then think about tankmates later. We have a tankmate wiki as well.
>plan on putting a filter and heater in the tank, is there anything else I should consider?
Lots of plants, some hiding spots (with big enough holes so the betta doesn't get stuck).
>plan on using aquarium gravel and some decorative rocks. Should I put aquarium plants with them aswell, or use decorative, fake plants?
Absolutely. Soft silk or live. I love live plants and there are tons of easy ones. Avoid plastic, they tear fins and injure body/eyes. I'll list easy plants below.
>How should I care for them?
I'll include the caresheet below. Spend time with them, sit with them, have them follow your finger, feed them well, love them, talk to them (baby voice is a must haha), and just enjoy being with them. They are incredible, personable fish!
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Some meds to have on hand: Seachem Stressguard (very mild antiseptic), Paraguard, Kanaplex, Prazipro, Erythromycin are good to start with.
First of all, I'm so sorry for your loss.
I'll go down the list of things that could be improved on from here on out for best chances of keeping bettas.
>I dechlorinated the water and put some bacteria start up in it and cycled it for a week.
Doing this doesn't cycle the tank. Fishless cycling takes 2-6 weeks, sometimes more. You need to actively feed the bacteria with pure ammonia (Dr. Tim's ammonia or pure ammonia). Dosing bottled bac without doing that doesn't do anything.
>did some research and some test strips. The ph around 7 and all of the other chemicals were fine.
You need the API Freshwater Master kit to test with ($24 Petsmart online and they'll price match. Petco has it also). Strips can be inaccurate and do not test for ammonia. This is crucial. Any ammonia is toxic to fish, and so are nitrites which are present in uncycled tanks.
>fed him a pea
In the future, avoid peas. Bettas are insectivores and do not digest plant matter well. If the betta is bloated, try fasting for a few days then feed frozen brine shrimp or daphnia.
I recommend you cycle the tank thoroughly before getting the next betta. And try seeking out local fish stores and support the ones that treat their fish right. Chain store fish are often sickly.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
How much ammonia does it get up to?
If you've been using fish food, you're likely not getting up to the proper ammonia levels. Get liquid ammonia, Dr. Tim's ammonia or pure ammonia (ammonium chloride as the only ingredient).
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
7.5 gal can hold 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates.
Cycling info:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dr. Tim’s Aquatics Ammonium Chloride Aquarium T… | - | - | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dr. Tim’s Aquatics Ammonium Chloride Aquarium T… | - | - | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
>I’m going to have a dwarf pleco in it. I forget the exact species but the kind I got only grows to be 2.5/3 inches long and their recommended tank size is 10 gallons. Is this something that isn’t kosher or does it sound fine?
I looked up dwarf pleco and got the snowball pleco which requires a 40 gal min tank.
Clown plecos are also a smaller type and need 20 gal min. Plecos in general do not belong in a 10 gal. Anything below a 20 gal is too small even if they are smaller species. It can stunt their growth and they are extremely messy fish, they produce a lot of waste.
10 gal is enough for 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates.
>there are water conditioners and etc labeled specifically for bettas. Are those necessary, or is it a money grab?
Money grab really. All you need is Seachem Prime. And Seachem Stability or Tetra SafeStart Plus as your beneficial bacteria blend..
>but I wondered what everyone has had success with and what their bettas have liked?
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Don't feed any veggies as they will cause bloat and other issues.
>Should I stick to the cycling bacteria from a bottle?
You can if you want. Just start the tank brand new and fishless cycle it.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>is the 10 gal tank okay for a Betta and 2 ADF's?).
No. 10 gal is enough for 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates.
Adfs do better in their own tank of 10 gal min, a pair. They're basically blind and can chomp the betta accidentally looking for food. They are not good tankmates.
>Are there any other fish/bottom feeders/snails/etc that could live in a 10 gal tank with the Betta and ADF's (or just one or the other if the consensus is they need more space/cannot live together).
Just shrimp/snail. But you need to focus on cycling the tank first. This takes 2-6 weeks.
>How long should a new tank sit with conditioner and bacteria starter before adding ADF's/Betta's/etc?
2-6 weeks of active cycling, not just letting it sit there.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>50watt be ok? still looking for a good one, ideally one that will fit in rear compartment
50W is perfect. The 50W Aqueon adjustable heater works well.
>Fluval stratum
This does leach nutrients for some time. Either cap it with sand or just do sand by itself. Use root tabs for rooted plants. You don't need nutrient rich substrate to have a planted tank.
>API stress guard plus,
Seachem Stressguard is great to have on hand for mild fin rot, and other issues.
>honestly what are peoples opinions on the kick-start bacteria?
Worked for me. Recommend Seachem Stability and/or Tetra Safestart plus.
>have done the cycle and ammonia and nitrites are 0 would a single nerite snail be enough to keep the cycle going until I find a betta?
Absolutely. They poop a lot. I rec a 10 gal for 1 nerite ime.
>preventing algae outbreaks? Seen a few videos and seems like it may be inevitable? Will only keep lights on 6-8hours a day?
It is inevitable but it can be manageable with weekly water changes. And adjusting lights/ferts as needed. I love the magfloat for glass cleaning. So easy, without sticking your entire arm in the tank each time
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Looking good. Leave it be.
Here are some tips:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dr. Tim’s Aquatics Ammonium Chloride Aquarium T… | - | - | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
Dr Tims ammonia is a good way to kickstart the ammonia in your tank.
>3Gallon
You should upgrade to a 5 gal min. This is the min we recommend for 1 betta. 3 gal will require 2-3x/week water changes after it cycles.
Smaller tanks cause stress, fin nipping (yes they will nip their own fins from not having enough room to turn around). They are very active fish and will use all the space you give them.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
>fishless cycle and spending time learning more about fish care as I go and I will be purchasing fish in about 1 week.
1 week isn't enough to fishless cycle a tank. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>3g tank size, assuming I put a Betta in there, what would be the best tank mates for my setup? Petsmart lady told me that neon tetras would be good but I'm also thinking of maybe getting a tank-cleaning buddy like shrimp/cory catfish or some of the other recommended standards
There are no tankmates that can go into a 3 gal. Neons need 6 in a shoal and 20 gal min. Cories, the same. Pet stores will give out misinformation to get you out the door with fish and products. They don't care, so don't listen to them.
Tankmates for a 5-10 gal are snail/shrimp. But focus on a single betta first in an appropriate sized tank, then you can think about tankmates.
Lmk if you have any other questions/concerns, feel free to reach out.
Do a 50% water change. Keep ammonia, and nitrites around 2ppm. Anything higher can stall it, esp in smaller tanks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
5 gal min is what we recommend.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Check your local Craigslist, FB Marketplace for deals.
Fishless cycling take 2-6 weeks before getting the fish. Here's the how-to, materials and prices.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Yes you need to feed it ammonia to get the cycle going.
Test your tap for all parameters for a baseline first.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
No, no bottled bac will instantly cycle a tank. Go through fishless cycling so the tank is healthy and ready for your future betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Try local fish stores, if they treat their bettas well, then support them.
Get a 5 gal min tank, filtered, heated, and cycled.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Do you have the betta yet? If not, you need to hold off and get the tank cycled. This takes 2-6 weeks and makes it strong and healthy for future fish.
I would change out those pebbles as they're big and difficult to gravel vac in when you need to. Normal gravel (beige or black) or sand works. 1.5-2" depth is plenty. Chain stores sell it for $6/5lbs. You'll need 2 bags.
Also, switch to silk plants or live. Plenty of easy live plants out there like Anubias and Java Fern which can be attached to decor.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Lmk if you have any other questions/concerns, we're here to help!
Please cycle the tank before you get the betta. 5 gal min.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Check out local Craigslist and FB Marketplace as well for deals, r/aquaswap.
Fishless cycle takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Please fishless cycle beforehand, this takes 2-6 weeks before getting any betta or other livestock.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
>5in1 test strip
Grab the API Freshwater Master kit to test with ($24 Petsmart online and they'll price match. Petco has it also). These are much more accurate than the strips.
API also has the liquid kit for kh and gh, you can grab that as well. It's $8 on Amazon.
Your pH is fine so don't try to mess with gh or kh as long as it's stable.
>Tank size: 3.5g
Could you get a 5 gal tank? This is the min we recommend, it's a lot easier to filter, heat, cycle and keep it stable. Plus easier and less maintenance than 3.5 (this needs 2-3x/week wcs).
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
When will you be getting a betta? You'll need to fishless cycle which takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
5 gal min, filtered, heated
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater). Petsmart app has Treat Trail game to win coupons for use! Walmart has the AquaCulture 10 gal kit. Sometimes Petco has sales on standalone tanks. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Fishless cycle before getting a betta. This takes 2-6weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants: you don't need a soil substrate as long as you supplement them with nutrients they need. Most plants will grow in sand or gravel just fine.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Test your source water for all parameters for a baseline.
Get liquid ammonia and go through the fishless cycle. Don't listen to the store telling you to add livestock, that's cruel and inhumane.
Use Stability and/or Tetra Safestart plus as your beneficial bacteria instead of API. Get Prime as your water conditioner. PH fluctuates as the cycle moves on, so it's normal. But get the API gh and kh test kit (liquid kit), from Amazon to test those out. Low kh can cause huge swings in pH.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Regular tap with conditioner like Prime before refilling the tank.
Fishless cycle before getting a betta. This takes 2-6 weeks. 5 gal min, filtered, heated.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
All foods can be found at chain stores and/or local fish stores:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Yes you can put plants in as you put the tank together.
Yes both needs to be on and running.
Please fishless cycle before getting a betta.
5 gal min
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
What kind of ammonia do you have? Dr. Tim's?
You always dechlorinate the water before refilling the tank so Prime goes into the water first. Then, you can add ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm. Last, you can add your bottled bac directly in the filter each day.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Make sure to fishless cycle before getting a betta:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
A kit is very good to have on hand always. Mini cycles happen all the time, being ready for it and having the right materials makes life a lot easier!
10 gal only needs 2ppm of ammonia, 3 max. Anything over stalls cycles.
You do not need to add it daily because the beneficial bacteria needs time to start consuming and converting.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You need to condition the water before refilling the tank or pouring it anywhere in the tank including the filter. Chlorine kills beneficial bacteria.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Yes you need to run the filter. This is where most of your beneficial bacteria will reside. They need surface area via filter sponges like aquaclear, biomax media, filter floss to colonize on. They need o2 24/7 and water running through.
You also need to turn the heater on, as bacteria grows faster in higher temps.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
It's not enough. You have to account for substrate, filter, heater which are crucial, plants, decor. All this takes away water volume ending up with 1-1.5 gal of water if you're going for the tank size mentioned. This means more water changes per week. Smaller tanks aren't as stable (this is stress on your betta).
We recommend 5 gal tank min, it's not big at all. It fits on any kitchen corner, or a small desk that can hold its weight. Remember that water weighs 8lbs/gallon plus the extras.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Please fishless cycle before getting a betta. Giving your betta an appropriate sized home, filter, heater, etc will give the betta the best chances and to thrive instead of just survive. They are very active fish and will use all the room we give them.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
I'm so sorry for your loss.
We rec 5 gal minimum as it's easier to heat, filter, cycle and keep it stable. These 3 things are extremely important in keeping a tank, and keeping a healthy fish.
Since you can start over now, please go get the appropriate tank. And fishless cycle it. This takes 2-6 weeks, which makes the tank healthy for the future fish
Maintenance for a 5 gal after the cycle is 1-2x/week. Always temp match the water, and dechlorinate before it goes into the tank.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food: feed high quality foods with variety:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Go for soft silk or live plants. No plastic as they tear fins. They love lots of plants to rest, explore, hide in. It makes any tank look incredible. Check out r/plantedtank, r/aquariums for ideas, and ofc here too!
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Dr. Tim's ammonia or pure ammonia (ammonium chloride as only ingredient). 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Do you have the fish yet?
If not, you need to fishless cycle.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Bettas like a jungle of a tank, makes them feel safe, have places to explore, hide, rest. Soft silk or live. No plastic, they tear fins.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
I'm so sorry for your loss.
What's the temp?
I recommend you fishless cycle it through before getting any more bettas. This way the cycle is strong and the tank is healthy for another betta. And look into local fish stores, support them if they treat bettas good. Chain store bettas are always more sickly.
Get rid of the plastic plants, they tear fins.
Is your water always that low or?
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Fishless cycling takes 2-6 weeks. Please do not get a fish tonight nor rush into it. It will become a big headache, and stressful for you and the betta.
Take the time to do it right.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Rec the 50W Aqueon adjustable heater (Petsmart price matches Chewy.com).
- How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
If you don't have the betta yet, please fishless cycle. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
You can if you want. It's just to be safe. I use Prime as it's super concentrated.
You need to fishless cycle which takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Welcome to bettas!
Here ya go:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
>The stuff on the stabilizer say to use it once a day for 7 days so prevent “new fish tank syndrome” and that it’s safe for a fish to be in there. Is this true based on your experience?
It doesn't instant cycle any tank. It can help when fishless cycling or fish in. The only instant cycle is cycled media in your filter. But that even takes time to establish.
Fishless cycle is the way to go. It is more humane, and makes sure your tank is healthy for the future betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
>Anyone have any suggestions they like for tank, lights, filter, heater, substrate, plants, etc?
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Go for a 10. Bigger is better.
Lights: I use the Nicrew Sky LED for my 10 gal. You can find other Nicrews on Amazon.
Filter: Topfin Silentstream 10 from my 5.5 gal kit. Easy to baffle, easy to clean.
Heater: 100W Aqueon adjustable heater (Petsmart price matches Chewy.com). I used the 50W with my 5.5 gal. If you live in a cold region, get the 100W. It'll work less to keep the tank stable.
Substrate: I use CaribSea Peace River. It's fine gravel, holds plants down well. I use Flourish tabs and liquid ferts.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Please fishless cycle before getting a betta:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
10 gal is perfect for a betta and some snail/shrimp.
Please fishless cycle the tank beforehand, this takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Decor: soft silk or live plants. Plastic tears fins and injure body/eyes. Try to go for a natural color of substrate or black. Other colorful painted substrate will chip and leach into the water column, causing fish to get sick. Avoid silicone decor from the store as well, those leach too.
Here are some live plant suggestions:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
That's not gonna cycle it just by adding bottled bac. You need a source of ammonia to feed the bacteria.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You def need to get your own test kit. Going through a cycle without it is a headache.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Get your own kit. It's crucial to have on hand always.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
I would do some water changes before you get another betta. Ghost feed the tank and see if it's cycled before adding any stock.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Liquid ammonia would be a lot easier to fishless cycle with than fish food (messy, stinky, less accurate). Dr. Tim's ammonia or pure ammonia from a hardware store (only ingredient should be ammonium chloride). 8-12 drops per 5 gal.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Fishless always when you get the chance. This is more humane, kind, and gets the tank ready for the betta. Fish in cycle is when you're forced to (ex when a betta landed in my lap in a vase).
Fishless cycling takes 2-6 weeks. Mine took 2.5. It just depends.
5 gal minimum.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Bettas love plants, soft silk or live. Plastic tears fins and injure body/eyes. Lmk if you need plant suggestions.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Food:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants: these will all vary in price depending on where you buy them.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
It's because of the nutrient rich substrate you're using. It takes time to level out. You can do some water changes and put a new ziploc baggie down to refill the tank so it doesn't disturb the substrate every time.
You won't need root tabs for a while then as it looks soil based. Nor liquid ferts as it will leach to the water column. Wipe what you can off of the glass around the top rim.
You need to get a test kit or else waiting isn't gonna do any good. Plus you need to feed it ammonia to get the cycle going.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Get a bottle of Dr. Tim's ammonia which is easy to dose to get to 2ppm ammonia (8-12 drops per 5 gal). You need it anyway to make sure it's cycled at the end and to not let the bacteria starve out.
Or pure ammonia from a hardware store (ammonium chloride as only ingredient).
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Np.
Fishless cycling a tank will take 2-6 weeks. Since you added fluval stratum (correct me if I'm wrong), it might take longer as it leaches nutrients into the water column for some time. But if you fishless cycle, you do need to feed the tank ammonia to get it going right.
- Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Here's what I rec to use for cycling (fishless and fish in):
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Let's leave him in the current tank and wait till you get that test kit. And do daily to every other day water changes.
You need to feed it ammonia for the cycle to begin and cycle through correctly.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
The HOB can be baffled easily. It allows more room in the tank for plants/scaping. And easy to maintain.
- How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Sponge filter will need more materials than that air pump.
- Sponge filter materials available on Amazon: sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Set up diagram
As for cycling:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
How much fish food are you adding? It's hard to get to 2ppm with fish food dosing method. Highly rec liquid ammonia.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
20 gal min before cohabiting with any other fish. Tetras can be nippy so they need to be in shoals and an adequate sized tank.
Please fishless cycle beforehand. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Soft silk or live plants. No plastic. Sand all decor down smooth.
Food:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Tankmates:
5 gal minimum, filtered, heated, cycled. Bowls aren't good. They can't fit a filter nor heater well and that small will never cycle nor be stable. It also messes with their vision. Fish swim back and forth more than up and down.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Please fishless cycle before getting a betta. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Decor: soft silk or live plants. Plastic tears fins and injure body/eyes
Food:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Your tank looks to be about 2-2.5 weeks old based on your posts on this sub. And you added a betta a few days after running it which isn't enough time to fishless cycle. Then the pleco added even more issues, like the ammonia spike. The spike would have happened anyway as the tank wasn't cycled. Fish excrete ammonia 24/7, and in an uncycled tank, this causes burns/poisoning, fin rot and is fatal.
Please fishless cycle it before getting a betta. This is a lot easier in a 5 gal and up. A 5.5 gal is 16" length x 8 tall and 8 wide. It's not that big. I had one that fit on a corner of my kitchen counter. Now it occupies a 10 gal, and that's not even big.
Grab the materials and fishless cycle completely. This saves the headache and stress of doing a fish in if you get a betta immediately again.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
5 gal min is what we rec. The bigger the better as it's easier to maintain, more room for the betta, and more room to scape, more stable as well.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Please fishless cycle before getting a betta. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food: high quality pellets with variety
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Decor should be smooth, no plastic plants, big openings for them to go in and out easily. Live plants are best, but soft silk works too.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Do live plants so they have the chance to melt then bounce back. They'll help with the cycle, but it won't affect it that much.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Please fishless cycle before you get a betta:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants: soft silk or live. Tons of easy live plants out there.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
I agree with the others saying that 5 gal is the min, it's what we recommend. And now that I have a 10 gal, it's a lot easier to maintain.
3 gal with everything in it is more like 1.5 gal of water. It requires more wcs per week than a 5 gal and up. Less swimming space causes stress, fin nipping, and other issues.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Please fishless cycle before getting a betta:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Please fishless cycle before getting a betta:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
How much iron exactly? Plants do use iron as nutrient, and esp some red plants iirc. Definitely heavily plant the tank as bettas enjoy that.
If it's too much, get some bottled water or an RO system installed and see if that helps. If you do have an RO system, you'll need to remineralize the water before use with Seachem Replenish or Equilibrium (do more research on this).
Here's info on fishless cycling:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Ok good. I rec liquid ammonia if you can get it. Much more accurate than fish food.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
5 gal tank, filtered, heated.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. Sometimes Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
You need to fishless cycle before getting one. This takes 2-6 weeks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants/decor: soft silk or live. Smooth decor, big openings so they can swim in and out easily.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Have you been adding ammonia to cycle the tank? If not, your tank may not be completely cycled.
Test your tap for all 4 params for a baseline.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Why not use liquid ammonia? Fish food is stinky, messy, and inaccurate way to cycle a tank.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Get yourself liquid ammonia. Fish food is messy, stinky, inaccurate.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
The tips are what I did and my tank cycled in 2.5-3 weeks.
She's prob talking about bottled bacteria which can aid in the process of cycling. But you cannot and should not put fish in within the first day. Fishless cycling takes 2-6 weeks. It's cycled when it's cycled.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Your ammonia and nitrites are fine rn at the current level. Leave them be.
You need to fishless cycle before getting a betta. Everything bogus has said also. No fish tankmates in a 10 gal. Plecos poop a lot and need much bigger tanks.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Substrate: normal gravel or sand at the store is fine.
Def real plants. Lots of easy plants out there. I'll list some below.
Please fishless cycle before getting a betta. It takes 2-6 weeks sometimes longer.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
You need the media submerged in old tank water or your beneficial will dry out and die. You may have a die off anyway as they need running water and oxygen through them to thrive. Just pop it in a ziploc baggie with tank water and put it in box or padded box to keep the temp stable for it while you drive.
Here's fishless cycling info:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Welcome to bettas!
Yes you need a filter esp a beginner to make things a world easier.
My personal fav are hang on backs since they take up less room in a 5 gal tank. I use the Topfin Silentstream 10 for my 10 gal. It works perfect with lots of room for media.
OR you can get a sponge filter:
- Sponge filter materials available on Amazon: sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Set up diagram
Please fishless cycle before you get a betta:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants/decor: soft silk or live. Plastic tears fins. Lmk if you need any suggestions on plants!
Food: high quality foods with variety:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
I'm so sorry for your loss.
I rec you get a 5 gal min tank. It's the min we rec here. It's easier to heat, filter, cycle and keep it stable. If you're in the US:
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40. OR Petco's having their dollar per gal sale right now, starting with the 10 gal for $10: grab a lid, filter, and adjustable heater.
For the 3 gal, just clean it out with 1 part vinegar and 4 parts hot water rinse. Then keep it as a plant quarantine tank or return it and get an appropriate sized tank.
Then you need to fishless cycle before getting any other betta in the future. This takes 2-6 weeks which will build beneficial bacteria (nitrogen cycle) to healthy levels to take on the bioload of a betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Bettas like planted tanks, soft silk or live. Plastic tears fins and injures body/eyes.
Lmk if you have any other questions, we're here to help!
Can you get pure ammonia from a grocery store or hardware store? It's used for cleaning. The only ingredient should be ammonium chloride. Dr. Tim's ammonia works too.
Fish food is messy, inaccurate way of dosing ammonia. You could put it into a stocking and stick it in there to reduce the mess and make it easy to take out.
Do not add shrimp nor any livestock. Shrimp are sensitive to parameters.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You need to feed it ammonia to get it going. Without it, your bacteria won't ever show up to get it started.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
I got you:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Spend some time to read through it and get the necessary materials when you have everything set up.
You'll want to cycle the tank through first. Do you have a filter? Heater? If not, you will need to get them.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
If you're in the US:
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice Kit-$30-40
5 gal min is what we rec here. It's easier to heat, filter, cycle and keep it stable. Bettas are very active fish and will swim every inch we give them.
Filter: the kits should have a filter. I like hang on backs, they offer a lot of room for filter media and easy to maintain. Also takes up less room inside the tank so there's more room to scape. It's easy to baffle too. I'll list it below.
Lid: Def need one. Bettas are avid jumpers. Glass lid if you want another light for the tank. Stores should have them.
Heater: 50W Aqueon Submersible adjustable heater for a 5 gal, 100W for 10 and so on.
Substrate: gravel or sand. Whichever you want. I like coarse sand/fine gravel as waste lands on top and is easy to siphon out during water changes. 1.5-2" depth is plenty.
Fishless cycle it before you get any stock. This makes the tank safe and healthy for fish. Read up on it and take notes.
After the cycle, 1x/week water changes is good at 10-30%. Always dechlorinate the water before it goes in the tank. Tap water kills beneficial bacteria.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food: feed high quality foods with variety
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants: soft silk or live. Plastic tears fins. Here are some plant suggestions:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Here's what you need:
5 gal minimum aquarium, the bigger the better as it's easier to heat, filter, cycle and keep it stable.
Adjustable heater: 50W Aqueon Submersible adjustable heater, or any adjustable one available in your country, try to get a reliable one.
Filter: Hang on backs are good, they take up less room inside the tank so you can scape. How to baffle it is below.
Lights: Nicrews are good and budget friendly. Get a timer to set it for 6hrs/day max to start. Add plants so they can melt back then grow during the fishless cycle.
Glass lid works if you have a light for plants. Lids are essential as bettas are avid jumpers.
Substrate: gravel or sand. 1.5-2" depth is good enough.
You'll need to fishless cycle, this takes 2-6 weeks before you get any stock in the tank.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You should use liquid ammonia as fish food is inaccurate, stinky, messy. After the cycle 10-30% 1x/week water change is good. As long as the tank is 5 gal and up.
Fishless cycling is a bit more involved than the list you have in a separate comment. Below are links, materials, and tips.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You'll need to fishless cycle the tank which takes 2-6 weeks before you get a betta. Here's info:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Filter media: biomax, fluval foam works as well.
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You need to cycle the tank first before getting the betta. This takes 2-6 weeks. Rec you dechlorinate the water anyway even if it's filtered. Dechlorinate it before it hits the tank each time.
>Should I fill it with more water or will that mess with the filter?
You wanna make sure the outflow meets the water line so it's not pushing down hard. You might have to baffle it once the betta is in there so it doesn't push him/her around.
>And any led light recommendations?
Nicrews are good, budget friendly available on Amazon. You def need a lid. A glass lid with plastic on the back to cut out for the filter and heater works.
You need to get the 100W Aqueon Submersible adjustable heater. Presets are unreliable and useless in times of illnesses or rn for cycling purposes.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
It wasn't your fault, I'm sure.
Before you get another betta, make sure to fully fishless cycle. I'll leave info below.
And plant suggestions as well.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
You can get Dr. Tim's ammonia on Amazon.
You'll need to fishless cycle beforehand. This takes 2-6 weeks. 12 gal is perfect!
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Food:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
You need the API Freshwater Master Kit to test with ($23 Petsmart online and they'll price match). Use liquid ammonia (Dr. Tim's or pure ammonia which has ammonium chloride as only ingredient). Fish food is messy, stinky and inaccurate. You need to dose ammonia to 2ppm.
What tank size?
Temp?
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
You need to add ammonia to get the cycle going.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
You could get the API gh and kh test as well. Good to have on hand. Kh buffers ph and keeps it from swinging. I'll list some info below.
And yes you should! I always rec it.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
No not possible. This is how you get into the fish in cycling situation which is stressful on both the fish and you. They're businesses first, don't listen to them. Keep fishless cycling.
I rec you get liquid ammonia to cycle with, it's more accurate, less messy and stinky than fish food.
What tank size do you have?
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Horizontal swimming space as they swim back and forth rather than up and down.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Or get a standalone tank, lid, adjustable heater, and filter separately.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Live plants or soft silk.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
High quality foods with variety:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Hi there, thx for pinging me.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Acclimating is just floating the betta in the tank for 30 mins, add some new water then scoop out some of the old at the same time. Then let the betta swim out.
Fishless cycling takes 2-6 weeks. Here's what you need:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees. For 10 gal, go for the 100W
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
This can take 2-6 weeks. Mine took 3 weeks. Here are some plant suggestions!
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
- Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
It makes the tank safe and healthy for your betta.
Please read through this:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
You cannot pick up a betta this soon. Fishless cycle makes the tank safe for the betta. This takes 2-6 weeks.
What size tank is this? Do you have a filter? Yes get an adjustable heater, it shuts off once it gets to temp.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
You need to fishless cycle the tank before you get a betta. This takes 2-6 weeks.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30.
Or standalone 10 gal, with a lid ($13-15), substrate ($6/5lbs and you need about 1.5-2" for rooted plants), lighting ($15-40, Nicrews are budget friendly).
Other stuff needed:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Betta prices vary depending on type.
>Petsmart the guy who worked in the fish department told me to use Bettafix (in case the fish is sick). He never said anything about cycling.
They don't give much info or correct info. Def return it if you haven't opened it.
You still need to fishless cycle it before you get a betta. Do not get a betta tomorrow. This is stress on the fish if you get it before you cycle the tank through. Cycling makes it safe and healthy for your betta. Saves a lot of headaches.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
>mostly wanted the air stone since the pump is quieter but if I need the sponge too I can manage.
You don't need either if you have a hang on back. If you want an airstone go for it, install a bleed valve so it's adjustable.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30. OR Right now, Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Please fishless cycle the tank before you get a betta:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Highly rec you get a 5 gal min tank. It's easier to heat, filter, cycle and keep it stable. It would need 1x/week water changes after it cycles vs 2.5 needs 2-3x/week wcs. Also 5 gal provides ample swimming room.
I would then move over the substrate and media into the new filter. Then fishless cycle.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter. .
That's why you need to fishless cycle. Since you're starting brand new. You wanna make sure the tank is healthy before you introduce your stock:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Have you added ammonia? If not, then your tank hasn't started.
Test your tap for all parameters for a baseline.
Tank size?
Is it filtered and heated?
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Sure, still good for a betta. Below are the fishless cycling info.
Depending on where you're from, these materials may vary:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Don't use fish food. It's stinky, messy, and not accurate. Get Dr. Tim's ammonia or pure ammonia (ammonium chloride as only ingredient).
What tank size?
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You need to get liquid ammonia. It's much more accurate and less messy and stinky than fish food.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You need an adjustable heater. 100W Aqueon Submersible adjustable heater works well. Petsmart price matches Chewy.com.
You don't need co2 for a planted tank. Low tech plants with root tabs and liquid ferts do well.
Don't use fish food. You need liquid ammonia. It's more accurate, less messy and stinky.
Also get a better filter. Under gravel filters aren't good. Get a hang on back or sponge filter.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Ok that's fine.
Continue fishless cycling then. Some tips for you:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Ammonia is way too high. It should only be at 2ppm for your 5.5 gal. You need to do wcs to get it down. 6ppm will stall your cycle.
Tannins will continue to leach out of the woods for months on end depending on what kind of wood it is. You can slip in some polishing pads to help absorb it out.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
You need to feed it ammonia if this is a fishless cycle. Or else you'll be sitting and doing nothing.
Test your source water for all 3 params for a baseline.
As for your Anubias and Java Fern, their rhizome (horizontal part where stems come out) cannot be buried or they'll rot which is likely what happened to your Anubias with the biofilm (not bacterial infection). Attach them to decor/driftwood. Or just bury the roots but not the rhizome.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Yes you do. Chlorine kills beneficial bacteria. Always use conditioner before the water hits the tank.
And I rec switching to liquid ammonia rather than fish food, it's more accurate and less messy than fish food.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
20 liter (5 gal min), the bigger the better. Yes get an adjustable heater so it keeps it stable in the tank at all times at 78-80F (25-26C). Filtered and cycled.
Fishless cycle is a must:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Food: feed high quality foods with variety:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Bettas love plants. Heavily planted tank is great. Soft silk or live. Plastic tears fins.
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
I just upgraded my boy a 10 gal from a 5.5, and he loves it. Much easier maintenance and more room for him to swim ofc :)
>About the fishless cycle: I saw in a few guides it takes a few weeks. In that time do I not change the water at all? I added a few moss balls from pet smart to the water and its a little cloudy already. I only started Saturday but added the moss balls Sunday.
You do when levels are too high which can stall cycles.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>I got an adjustable heater i saw recmended here, but not sure about the filter the tank came with. Wondering if that's the reason my water is cloudy?
Cloudy is due to a bacterial bloom, this is normal and will fluctuate with the cycle then go away altogether.
- How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
>Also for when I eventually figure these steps out, question about tank cleaning. I see a lot of people say to do water changes of 20-30% weekly, but what about a full tank cleaning? Any recommendations for guides to that?
5 gal needs 1-2x/week water changes, 10-20% after it cycles. You never need to do a full cleaning nor 100% wcs if you keep up on wcs each week.
The most I do is 50% once a month or once every 2 months where I go through the tank to rearrange something or get rid of plants, I just take out decor and give it a rinse in old tank water if needed then gravel vac it well.
>should I just get it now to be on the safe side?
Yes it's more accurate in measuring what you need during the cycle and after.
>I don’t have pure ammonia no, is that something I need? Literally haven’t seen that anywhere I’ve read that’s all! Also if you could let me know what to do with it that would be great
Yes you do, this is to feed the bacteria to get the cycle going. I'll list it below with some tips.
>the bacteria starter I used was API quick start
Rec Stability and/or Tetra Safestart Plus. I always have a bottle of Stability on hand. Worked for me time and time again, plus for emergencies it's a must have. Prime as your water conditioner.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>Did I make a mistake there?
How many gal is it rated for?
>5 Panda Corys, 5 Kuhli loaches, 5 mystery snails and 5 Otos.
This could work, but I rec maybe 1 shoal of bottom feeders (either cories or kuhlis). Since you already have 2 sets of tetras. And these bottom feeders need 6 in a shoal minimum.
You could just do 2 sets of tetras, and 1 set of bottom feeders and maybe the otos.
>want to have a planted tank so I will throw in some beginner plants like Amz swords and Java ferns with some other variety. I really like the look of mats but from what I understand, I need CO2?
Low tech plants like those do not need any CO2. I'll list some more below.
Also the substrate, if it's those little clay balls, they won't hold plants down that well. Either get gravel or sand and use root tabs (Flourish tabs) or get some other substrate like Fluval Stratum or soil and sand cap it.
>Would you recommend anything to make this more successful? Is that too much of a cleaning crew? Im currently on first day of cycling my tank so I plan to be patient and wait but I was thinking of putting some cheap Danios to help with the cycle so I can have my kids get used to feeding fish and learning about PH, Nitrites, and Nitrates.
See above on stocking.
Do not use fish to cycle. It's inhumane. Your kids should learn about fishless cycling which is establishing it before you add fish. This is the best chances of a strong and healthy tank.
You'll need to add fish slowly also. 1 set at a time in the span of a few weeks to months so your cycle doesn't crash when it's new.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Plants:
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30. OR Right now, Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
I have the 5.5 gal and it works great. I changed out the lid for a glass lid so I could have better lighting for the plants. I got the lid via Thatpetplace.com for $20 shipped or so. Has plastic in the back to cut out for the filter and heater. I then got some craft mesh from Joann's and cut it to close all the gaps near the outflow and the heater cord hole. Supe easy and cheap.
Make sure to fishless cycle before you get the betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
You're doing a fish in cycling now because you added snails. Are you able to take them back and do fishless cycling instead? It is more humane and make sure the tank is healthy before adding any stock.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
5 gal needs 1-2x/week water changes after it's cycled. You need to fishless cycle it before you get another betta. You need your own test kit also.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Bettas like plants, either soft silk or live. Plastic tears fins, so avoid.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30. OR Right now, Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Baffling the filter is easy if you go with a hang on back. I have the topfin kit, it works great! More info below.
OR
- Sponge filter materials available on Amazon: sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Set up diagram
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
I have gravel and use root tabs and liquid ferts. Super easy. There's pics on my profile.
Food:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
>I'm considering buying a 10 or 20 gallon since Petco is having their $1 a gallon, which is better? Planning on getting a betta and a 2-4 other fish
If you're planning on other fish go for the 20 gal. We rec that as a min when it comes to community tanks as other fish need to be in shoals of 6-10ish minimum.
10 gal is enough for 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates.
Petsmart has the TopFin Starter kit for $25-30 for a 5.5 gal and price goes up from there. It comes with a filter and thermometer but their bigger kits come with a heater. I suggest you get an adjustable heater though if it comes with a preset.
>If it's cheaper to buy the tank and stuff separate, is this everything I need: Lid, Filtration system, Heater, Thermometer, Light, Rocks?
Lid will cost you around $15-25.
Filter: hobs like aquaclear 30 or so costs $30-40, Topfin Silentstream 10 starts at $13 or so, you wanna go for 2x the tank size in filtration. OR sponge filter works too: Sponge filter materials available on Amazon: sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Set up diagram
Heater: for 10 gal, 100W Aqueon Submersible adjustable, or 20 gal 150W same brand.
Thermometer: a few bucks, glass or LCD works. Avoid the sticker ones.
Light: Nicrew on Amazon are budget friendly.
Rocks: substrate is about $6/5lbs so you want 1.5-2" for most plants. So for 10 gal, prob need about 15-17lbs of substrate and so on for a 20 gal. Gravel or sand works. If you want nutrient rich substrate like soil, sand cap it so it doesn't leach into the water column.
Any other decor like driftwood can range from $10-30+, scaping rocks like dragonstone, etc as well.
Also please fishless cycle the tank beforehand:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Plants:
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
You need to fishless cycle before you get a betta. This takes 2-6 weeks or longer depending. Hold off on the betta until your tank is completely cycled.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
They love plants so soft silk or live. Lots of easy live plants out there:
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
- NorthFin Bites
- Fluval Bug Bites or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Yes much better tank! Below are info and instructions on how to fishless cycle. Our wiki has a fishless cycling link also.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
>letting it filter for 14 days
- Fishless cycling takes 2-6 weeks. I'll list info below. You'll need to do more than just letting it filter.
>guy also told me to buy this plant stuff that goes on the bottom of the tank that keeps the plants healthy (it’s in a bag around $25
- You don't need nutrient rich substrate for most beginner plants. You can use gravel or sand and supplement it with root tabs. If you use nutrient rich, like soil, you need to cap it with sand or it will leach nutrients into the water column and spike parameters for a while. I'll list easy plants below. I have crypts, java fern, anubias, bucephalandra, floating dwarf water lettuce and salvinia minima. Super easy, low tech plants.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Are you adding ammonia to feed the bacteria?
We rec a 5 gal min here as it's easier to heat, cycle, filter and keep it stable. More room to scape and plant too. 3 gal will need 2-3x/week water changes vs a 5 and up 1x/week after it cycles.
Which brings me to the plastic plants, you'll need to replace it with soft silk or live. Plastic tears fins. There's lots of easy live plants out there.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30. OR Right now, Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Below are materials and info regarding fishless cycling:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
We rec a 5 gal min. There's sales rn on tanks: the bigger the better ofc.
Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30. OR Right now, Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Heater: 50W Aqueon Submersible adjustable one works well for a 5. Jump to a 100W for 10, and 150W for 20 gal.
Filter: if you get a tank kit, it will come with a hang on back or internal. You can use that and baffle the hob with a sponge easily as bettas like gentle waters. OR a sponge filter:
Sponge filter materials available on Amazon: sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Set up diagram
Lights: Nicrews are budget friendly, on Amazon. Get a timer and set it for 6hrs/day max to start off if you want live plants.
Fishless cycle beforehand:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Welcome to bettas!
>Do I need to add fish food or a bacteria thing to jump start the bacteria in the filter, or will the moss balls help with that?
You need to add ammonia. I rec liquid ammonia because it's easier to measure to 2ppm, vs fish food which is inaccurate and messy and stinky.
Please fishless cycle before you get your betta. This makes sure your tank is healthy and ready to go.
>I have a 10 gal Aqueon tank (petco). I am concerned about the filter being too strong? I read about putting a sponge on the filter but how do I get it to stay there? Do I use fishline or what?
If it's a hang on back filter: super easy to baffle.
- How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter:(sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter).
>would like to potentially get my future betta some tank mates. Is there anything that’s ideal or off limits for a 10 gallon?
Snail/shrimp for 10 gal. 1 nerite snail and some amanos would work. Amano shrimp are bigger and less likely to be eaten:
>Will a betta be OK if I’m gone for a long weekend? I’m a college student who occasionally goes home, I have a roommate who would be able to feed him, but I don’t want him to be lonely.
Bettas don't get lonely. They can get stressed, etc but they're solitary fish.
Long weekend as in how many days? You can portion the food out into a pill container, just 3-4 pellets per day and tell your roommate to just feed that. And hide the rest of the food so no overfeeding worries.
>am at a loss for decoration. I plan on getting a few live plants but what else would a betta like?
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Food:
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
Welcome to bettas! Glad you're going with the 5.5 gal!
You'll need an ammonia source to feed the bacteria and get the cycle going. Below are rec materials, and tips that helped me cycle mine:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Plants:
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
I have dwarf water lettuce that propagated like crazy and have beautiful roots that my betta likes to hang out in. They also suck up excess nutrients, provide shade for your low light plants, etc.
A 10 would be perfect. We rec a 5 min here, but with a 10 you can look into getting a plakat (short finned) that can zoom around easily in a 10 gal.
We rec fishless cycling it first, takes 2-6 weeks. In the meantime, you can scape, plant, and watch it grow. Below are materials, and instructions/info:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY and 5 gal bucket for water changes
If your filter is a hang on back:
- How to optimize your filter (after your cycle, rinse the media in old tank water during water changes each week to get any gunk off and put back in the filter. Never rinse under tap). This is what I did to my filter:(sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter).
Plant recs:
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
Welcome to bettas!
For fishless cycle, you need to feed the tank ammonia so the bacteria can start consuming it and get it going. Below are materials I highly rec as well as tips that helped me cycle my tank:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
You can start adding more plants, either more silk or jump into live. There are lots of easy live plants out there, lmk if you want suggestions! They're great for bettas, provide resting spots, sleeping spots, hideouts, and won't tear fins like plastic will. They also help absorb excess nutrients and filter the water a bit as well as oxygenate it.
For food, you should feed your betta:
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
Hi and welcome to bettas!
You can learn a lot from this sub, and venture out into other sites. We have an extensive wiki.
We recommend a 5 gal min because it's easier to heat (78-80F), filter, and cycle and then keep it stable. Anything below that requires more maintenance, and is less stable. Your betta also appreciates all the room he/she can get. They're very active fish, and the more room they get the more personality will come out, as well as good health.
>know the males have to be alone, but can they have any other smaller fish friends in there or will they be eaten?
The tank has to be 20 gal before you add any fish tankmates. Below that, snail/shrimp works as tankmates. Just depends on your betta's personality.
You'll need to cycle the tank before adding a fish. At this time, you can plant the tank, scape, rescape, and watch them grow. Fishless cycling makes sure the tank is a healthy environment for your new friend when they arrive.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Plants:
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
Hi and welcome to bettas! Glad you're here! We have an extensive wiki that should help you get started.
We rec a 5 gal min here, but the bigger the better. For 5-15 gal, snail/shrimp make good tankmates. For 20 and above you can add other fish like cories, rasboras, etc. Here's a helpful list:
You'll need to fishless cycle the tank before adding any stock. This makes sure it is healthy for your betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Food:
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
Bettas love plants, the more the merrier. Soft silk or live are best. Plastic can tear fins. Same goes for decor, make sure to sand all smooth and check for any small crevices. They are curious and can get stuck trying to squeeze into small spaces.
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
I would get the 50W Aqueon Submersible adjustable heater. 25W isn't enough for a 5 gal. I have the above heater and it works well.
As for plants, any substrate works, gravel, sand, or nutrient rich. I have black gravel, use root tabs for my swords and crypts and liquid fert and plants are great. Nutrient rich substrate does degrade over time and can leach nutrients which can spike parameters. You can cap it with sand to make it easier. Some like Flourite doesn't need to be capped. But it needs rinsing beforehand, extremely well.
You also need to cycle the tank before you get your betta:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Plants:
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Hi there and welcome!
Here's my must have lists, and tips for when I cycled my tank. It can be overwhelming but hopefully my list condenses it down for you.
Feel free to reach out anytime!
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime for water conditioner.
Seachem Stability for beneficial bacteria blend to dose into the filter OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 Petsmart online, and they'll price match).
Aqueon adjustable heater (50W for 5 gal, 100W for 10)
Gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY and new 5 gal bucket for wcs.
How to optimize your filter (after your cycle, rinse the media in old tank water during water changes each week to get any gunk off and put back in the filter. Never rinse under tap). This is what I did to my filter:(sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter).
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Plants:
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Hi and welcome to bettas! Glad to have you here :)
We rec a 5 gal min. Horizontal tanks over vertical for more swimming space and easy access to the top for o2. There are many tanks out there, that either come with a filter and thermometer and heater or just the tank itself or one of the above with the tank.
I have the TopFin Starter Kit. It comes with a hang on back filter, and thermometer and lid ofc. The filter has a lot of room for media (where beneficial bacteria lives, the cycle) which I love. It's easily customizable. There's the Fluval Spec V which a lot of people like, on the higher end of the budget. Many rimless tanks out there too that are absolutely gorgeous.
You can go for a sponge filter which is slow flow for bettas and most recommended. But you can baffle the hob easily.
You need to cycle the tank also completely before you get any fish or stock. This makes sure your tank is healthy.
If you go with a bigger tank, 20 gal and above you can have other fish tankmates with the betta. Tankmate info. Below that, stick to snail/shrimp. I have 3 amanos with my betta, they're bigger and less likely to be eaten. It just depends on the individual personality of your betta.
Here are info regarding fishless cycling and some of my fav must have products:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime for water conditioner.
Seachem Stability for beneficial bacteria blend to dose into the filter OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 Petsmart online, and they'll price match).
Aqueon adjustable heater
Gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY and new 5 gal bucket for water changes
Bettas love plants! The more the merrier. They feel safer, more comfortable in their tanks. And it gives them places to explore, rest, etc.
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food: feed high quality foods with variety:
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
Feel free to ask questions!
It takes a while.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30. Multiple times a yr, Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime for water conditioner.
Seachem Stability for beneficial bacteria blend to dose into the filter OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 Petsmart online, and they'll price match).
Aqueon adjustable heater
Gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Here's the guide I follow, and some tips. It took me 3 weeks about:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime for water conditioner.
Seachem Stability for beneficial bacteria blend to dose into the filter OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 Petsmart online, and they'll price match).
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
5 gal min.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30. Multiple times a yr, Petco has their dollar per gal sale starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Substrate: gravel or sand. It's easy to begin this way. I have gravel and grow crypts and swords just fine. I use Flourish tabs, and liquid ferts.
You need to fishless cycle it, takes 2-6 weeks:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter (after your cycle, rinse the media in old tank water during water changes each week to get any gunk off and put back in the filter. Never rinse under tap). This is what I did to my filter:(sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter).
No other fish in a 5 gal. 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates.
Food:
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
Tank maintenance: gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY. After it cycles, 1-2x/week water changes of 10-20% is plenty.
Plants:
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
>(Hopefully in the future once I get a hang of taking care of a betta, I will move up to a 5 gallon).
Actually the bigger the tank the easier the maintenance, stable cycle, etc. It is so much better for a beginner to get a 5 gal min.
3.5 gal needs 2-3x/week water changes after the cycle vs a 5 gal and up, 1x/week. So much easier to heat, filter, cycle and keep it stable. Smaller tanks are fragile and anything can knock a cycle off its course.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30. Multiple times a yr, Petco their dollar per gal sale right now starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
>This brings me to the question of what would be the best substrate for a beginner?
I use gravel. Some people use sand or nutrient rich substrate. In small tanks, I would avoid nutrient rich because it continues to leach it into the water spiking parameters. You could cap it with sand but it's so much easier in a 5 gal and above.
With sand or gravel, 1.5-2" is plenty. With gravel you can vac deeper than sand. With sand you just wave the gravel vac over the top to dislodge debris and then siphon it out. I use Flourish tabs for my crypts and root tabs, and liquid fert 1x/week.
You'll need to fishless cycle first:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Hi and welcome to bettas! Glad you are here :)
20 gal is perfect for a betta and opens up your options for tankmates other than snail/shrimp. Tankmate info
Do you have a filter?
What brand is your tank? If normal Aqueon 20 gal, chain stores sell the lids with plastic on the back to cut out for your filter and heater. Or you can go to a home improvement store or glass store with your measurements of the tank and have it cut to size. Or YT has vids on sliding glass lids as well. So lots of options.
Light: Nicrews work well. Check them out on Amazon. They're budget friendly. Grab a timer, I rec the Century Digital timer. 6-7hrs/day max is a good starting point for live plants. There are many easy live plants out there.
If you're starting fresh with new media:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable. For a 20 gal, 100-150W would work.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
You need the API Freshwater Master Kit to test parameters with. We don't know what parameters are until you test for them. It's $23 Petsmart online and they'll price match. Amazon has it too.
You'll want to start over after. Empty the tank and rinse it out because dropsy is a symptom of what could be one or a culmination of illnesses. You'll want to sterilize the tank and filter. Then fishless cycle it through to be on the safe side. I recommend 1 part vinegar and 4 parts hot water rinse and scrub (use a tank safe sponge or toothbrush or brush dedicated to the tank, no soap), then rinse well until the smell dissipates and let air dry.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime for water conditioner.
Seachem Stability for beneficial bacteria blend to dose into the filter OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 Petsmart online, and they'll price match).
Materials needed:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
I would get an adjustable heater. A 50W Aqueon Submersible adjustable one works well, for a 5 gal. Presets are unreliable.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime for water conditioner.
Seachem Stability for beneficial bacteria blend to dose into the filter OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 Petsmart online, and they'll price match).
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Hi and welcome to bettas!
What tank size will it be?
Do you have a heater, and filter?
I recommend using liquid ammonia and not food because food is messy, stinky and an inaccurate way of measuring ammonia.
Materials:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
PM me if you have any more questions!
Also, bettas love plants. Soft silk or live like: Anubias, Java Fern, Swords, Crypts, etc are easy to keep and grow. The more the merrier.
Test your tap for all 4 parameters to get a baseline.
Food isn't very good to use as ammonia source since it's hard to gauge how much is needed to get to 2ppm for that tank size. I would switch to pure ammonia (water and ammonium chloride as only ingredients) or Dr. Tim's ammonia works too. Much cleaner than fish food.
>She said for me to give it a few more days (we are retesting Friday) and it should be good to go then or soon after.
- Do you have some established filter sponges inside the media? Or other cycled media inside the filter? If not, and you're starting brand new, it's gonna take 2-6 weeks to fully cycle.
Here are materials and fishless cycle info:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime for water conditioner.
Seachem Stability for beneficial bacteria blend to dose into the filter OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 Petsmart online, and they'll price match).
How to optimize your filter (after your cycle, rinse the media in old tank water during water changes each week to get any gunk off and put back in the filter. Never rinse under tap). This is what I did to my filter:(sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter).
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
>How to cycle? I know I need the API test kit but do I do water changes or add in certain products?
- You mentioned your bf has tanks, get some of his filter media and put it into your filter then feed the tank with ammonia. This would speed things up a lot.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes. How to gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY
>Also how do I keep the cycle going once I have a betta in there?
- By not replacing the filter media and doing drastic water changes.
>Will changing the filter cartridge mess anything up or how do I go about this?
Yes never change the media. You wanna use sponges, biomax, etc and not carbon because it needs to be changed out which throws away the cycle each time.
How to optimize your filter (after your cycle, rinse the media in old tank water during water changes each week to get any gunk off and put back in the filter. Never rinse under tap). This is what I did to my filter:(sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter).
>How do I make a sponge filter or do I buy one?
Buying one would the easiest. Amazon and other aquarium sites have a whole bunch. For a 10 gal, go for a double sponge filter. Always good to have extra cycled media.
Sponge filter materials available on Amazon: sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Set up diagram
>Best tank (10 gal because I’d like a halfmoon plakat), filter and heater?
You can go for a standalone tank, Petco has dollar per gal sale a few times a year. Grab a lid, adjustable heater, and filter. 100W Aqueon Submersible adjustable heater for a 10 gal works well.
Or get a kit: Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30.
>What types of plants? Should I get a specific lightbar for plants to grow better? Can I start growing plants before the tank is cycled or do I wait until the tank is cycled? And what is the best substrate?
Nicrew lights are good and budget friendly. Plug it into a timer, 6-7hrs/day max to avoid algae and is plenty for low tech plants.
This is the time to scape, add plants, etc as the tank cycles. I did that before, during, and after. It lets you balance lighting, nutrients, etc and watch the plants grow.
Plants can grow in any substrate as long as provided nutrients via root tabs and liquid ferts.
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
>add a bit of food and leave it for a month then i should get my water tested and if it's safe i am safe to add a betta?
It's more involved than that. You need to add an ammonia source and pure, liquid ammonia is recommended as it's easier to monitor and also less messy and stinky.
You need a testing kit on hand always.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable. For a 10 gal, the 100W works well.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Food for your betta:
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
Plants: bettas prefer planted tanks, either soft silk or live so no fins are ripped. The more plants the better. Fishless cycling is the time to get these in and get them started and growing while the cycle rides out:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Here are basic info to get started. The tank does need to cycled beforehand. I'm not familiar with turtle set ups:
Materials:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
>I intend to have living plants is that a good idea? Like when it comes to cleaning the gravel/ soil how should I do it to avoid damaging the plant or sucking out All the soil I’ve never had any real plants in my aquarium Also will I need to fertilize them? Should I use liquid fertilizer? Would the fertilizer hurt the fish?
Live plants are great! No worries about fin snagging and they help oxygenate the tank and filter it a bit also. 55 gal, you can scape that thing like crazy! I'll list some plants below.
Here's how to gravel vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY efficiently. If you're using just gravel, you can stick the vac in it. If sand, you'll wave it over the top to dislodge debris then vacuum it out. If soil, you'll probably want to cap it with sand so nutrients aren't constantly leaching into the water column which can spikes parameters. Plants can grow in anything as long as provided nutrients.
Rooted plants like swords and other stem plants need root tabs, I recommend Flourish tabs, they last 4-5 months each. Liquid ferts work well for water column plants like Anubias, Java Fern, Elodea, etc. I use ThriveS which is invert safe and does not spike parameters. It shouldn't hurt your stock unless you overdose ferts which can cause high nitrates.
Also for a 55 gal, your options of tankmates open up:
>I intend to only buy a single male betta but if I want him to breed will the female betta in the stores be mature or will I have to wait? Also will males breed with the glow in the dark ones? I’ve just recently found out about them. Are they healthy? Or are they like the pug version of fish with a lot of health problems
Please do not breed them. Store bought bettas are basically genetic disasters, they're very inbred. Breeding should be left up to the experienced, and even they have issues with it. You need a lot of resources, time, and a lot of separate tanks. We have info on the wiki if you would like to take a read.
1 male will be perfect. You can go for plakat which will enjoy and be able to zoom around all that space with shorter fins. They're normally a bit healthier than long finned bettas.
As promised:
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Highly recommend Dr. Tim's ammonia to get the cycle going and finished accurately. It could take a few weeks to months. You can add bottled bacteria to help speed it up.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
- Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
- Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
- API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
- Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable. During the cycle, you can crank the temp to 80-82F as bacteria grows well in higher temps.
- Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Hi and welcome to bettas!
We recommend a 5 gal min here as it's easier to heat, filter, cycle and keep it stable. The bigger the tank, the more water dilution, the more room for error.
There are sales on tanks rn:
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30. OR Right now, Petco's having their dollar per gal sale right now starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
You'll need to fishless cycle it and that takes 2-6 weeks which makes the tank healthy for your future betta.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Food:
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
10 gal is good for 1 betta and snail/shrimp as tankmates, no other fish until a 20 gal, as most need groups and in a 10 gal would be overstocked.
Fishless cycle is more than letting a tank sit. You have to feed it ammonia and go through the spikes. It will take 2-6 weeks, unless you have another cycled tank you can take some media from and put that into the new filter. Otherwise, it'll take a few weeks.
Here's info and what you need:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter (after your cycle, rinse the media in old tank water during water changes each week to get any gunk off and put back in the filter. Never rinse under tap). This is what I did to my filter:(sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter).
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Also, the more plants the better:
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food:
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
Hi there and welcome to bettas!
First thing: the tank, we recommend a 5 gal min here as it's easier to heat, filter, cycle and keep it stable. The bigger the tank, the more water dilution, the more room for error, the less maintenance weekly after it cycles. 5-10+ gal is great for beginners.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30. OR Right now, Petco's having their dollar per gal sale right now starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
A must is fishless cycling which can take 2-6 weeks. In this time, you're feeding the tank ammonia (toxic to fish) to build beneficial bacteria to convert that and nitrites (less toxic) into nitrates (least toxic at levels of 5-10ppm) so that it's healthy for your future betta. Below are materials needed:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter (after your cycle, rinse the media in old tank water during water changes each week to get any gunk off and put back in the filter. Never rinse under tap). This is what I did to my filter:(sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter).
Food: make sure to feed your betta high quality foods with variety. They can be prone to bloat so feeding high quality foods will help avoid that:
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
Bettas love plants! They do come from densely planted waters. Avoid plastic plants as they tear fins. Go for soft silk or live is even better.
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Took me 3 weeks to fishless cycle and an additional 2 days to make sure ammonia and nitrite were being completely converted in 24 hrs.
Here's what you need:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Hi and welcome to bettas!
I have the same tank kit. It's a good deal for a beginner.
You'll need to fishless cycle the tank beforehand so it's healthy for your future betta. This will take 2-6 weeks. In this time, you can watch the plants, scape, etc take off. Plants will grow in any substrate as long as supplemented nutrients via root tabs and liquid ferts. I have black gravel and grow low tech plants just fine.
As for wood, I love spiderwood. You can find it via the chain stores or your local fish store. I bought a bag from Aquarium Co-Op, and also found it in the chain stores and lfs as well. Boil it for an hr or two to sterilize it. Then soak in a bucket until it gets waterlogged or it will float in the tank.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter (after your cycle, rinse the media in old tank water during water changes each week to get any gunk off and put back in the filter. Never rinse under tap). This is what I did to my filter:(sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter).
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food: feed your betta high quality pellets with supplements of frozen foods
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
Hi there and welcome to bettas!
You'll have plenty of time to fishless cycle then. And we have a wiki for moving also if you wanna check that out and give it a read.
Here are info on the nitrogen cycle, fishless cycling, and materials needed. I'll also leave some tank options on sale rn; bettas prefer horizontal tanks over vertical, it provides more swimming footprint and easier access to the top for o2 as they're labyrinth organ fish.
- Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice 10 gal kit $30. OR Right now, Petco's having their dollar per gal sale right now starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Food:
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fish or Betta Bites
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, bloodworms. You can use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. You can also fast 1x/week
Best to avoid plastic plants as they can tear fins. Go for soft silk or even better, live plants.
-> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
You'll need to add a source of ammonia but we don't recommend fish food as it's messy, stinky and inaccurate to get to 2ppm of ammonia.
What size tank is that? Here is the tankmate wiki:
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Hi there!
Here are info, materials, and some tips.
If you're going for a 5-10 gal, snail/shrimp are the tankmate options. I recommend amano as they're bigger and less likely to be eaten, they're also great algae eaters. Nerite snail, as their eggs won't hatch in freshwater. Tankmate info
For food, you'll want to feed high quality foods with variety. Flakes are often poor quality, containing a lot of fillers which causes bloat.
Take time to sit down, read, take notes of what you need. This hobby is a learning experience, and we're here to answer your questions as best as we can and help you through the process! So, please do not hesitate to ask questions.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for 24 hrs. Best on the mkt.
Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend, dose into the filter, shake well beforehand. OR Tetra SafeStart Plus
API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable heater; presets can be unreliable.
Gravel vac and 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
- Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
*Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Food->
- NorthFin Pellets
- Fluval Bug Bites for small fishor Betta Bites
Then, supplement with frozen bloodworms, tubifex, mysis and brine shrimp. Use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. How to feed frozen: Cut one cube out, then open, cut a small slice, soak in a small spoon (dedicated to the tank) of tank water and feed a few pieces, and toss the rest if any in the spoon. The rest of the cube goes back in the freezer for use for about 1-2 weeks, then break out a new cube. Ex: Feed pellets in the AM, then frozen at night a few times a week to give variety. Then pellets in the AM and PM for the rest of the week. Fast 1 day a week. Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM).
Plants: -> There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Hi and welcome to bettas! Glad you're here.
u/squishyegglord has given great advice, here are some other links and tips for fishless cycling. Please go through with this, as it makes the tank healthy for your betta.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Food->NorthFin Pellets, or Fluval Bug Bites for small fishor Betta Bites, New Life Spectrum. Fast 1 day a week. Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then you can supplement with frozen bloodworms, tubifex, mysis and brine shrimp. Use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. Cut one cube out, then open, cut a small slice, soak in a small spoon (dedicated to the tank) of tank water and feed a few pieces, and toss the rest if any in the spoon. The rest of the cube goes back in the freezer for use for about 1-2 weeks, then break out a new cube. Ex: Feed pellets in the AM, then frozen at night a few times a week to give variety. Then pellets in the AM and PM for the rest of the week.
Plants->avoid plastic as they tear fins->There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-9pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point
>would it need anything extra to go with it??
->Adjustable heater, 100-150W Aqueon Submersible adjustable heater.
Filter: -->You can go with a hang on back like AquaClear which will hold lots of media. Put a prefilter sponge on the intake so your betta doesn't get his fins ripped. And a sponge on it to easily baffle the outflow. Same for the internal.
-->Internal like Aqueon Quietflows (super gentle outflow). Always go for 2x the size of the tank, never such thing as too much filtration. Tie a filter sponge around the grates so your betta's fins don't get damaged.
These two, keep the carbon cartridge in the cabinet or toss it and use AquaClear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss. It will outlast many tanks, and makes a great home for beneficial bacteria. Also just rinse in tank water you take out weekly and put it back in, never rinse under tap. Those carbon cartridges are meant to remove meds after medicating or pollutants but not meant to be used all the time as it needs replacing which throws away your cycle each time.
-->Or sponge filter: Materials: (https://imgur.com/a/8gTjHsc) available on Amazon: sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Diagram: https://m.imgur.com/gallery/6GUliCb
->Lid because bettas jump, make sure to close all crevices (you can use a craft mesh from JoAnn's to tape down around the small crevices).
You'll need to fishless cycle:
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Plants->There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-9pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point
What will you be stocking it with?
How many gal is it?
You need to feed the tank with ammonia in order to get the cycle going. Leaving it as it will never cycle through properly.
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp appropriately before introducing your stock.
->It depends. Some of them will chip paint and make your betta sick, we've seen it here so I tend to recommend to avoid those. Any decor you get needs to be sanded down smooth.
->What size tank are you thinking of getting? At 15 gal you can start adding 6 pygmy cories. At 20, some rasboras and other cory types, at 30 and above, clown pleco can be added: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/tankmates
->You'll need to fishless cycle it first before you get a betta.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
-> I have gravel and use root tabs and liquid ferts and grow plants just fine. There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-9pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Hi and welcome to bettas! Glad you're here. You'll need to fishless cycle before you get a betta so your future friend can come home to a healthy tank. I'm glad you're starting with a 10 gal, the bigger the tank the easier the maintenance and the more stable parameters will be.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Don't worry about killing live plants, there are so many easy ones out there that you'll be just fine. I've killed Anubias before I knew better. As you go on, you'll learn and we're always here to help.
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-9pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food->NorthFin Pellets, or Fluval Bug Bites for small fishor Betta Bites, New Life Spectrum. Fast 1 day a week. Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then you can supplement with frozen bloodworms, tubifex, mysis and brine shrimp. Use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. Cut one cube out, then open, cut a small slice, soak in a small spoon (dedicated to the tank) of tank water and feed a few pieces, and toss the rest if any in the spoon. The rest of the cube goes back in the freezer for use for about 1-2 weeks, then break out a new cube. Ex: Feed pellets in the AM, then frozen at night a few times a week to give variety. Then pellets in the AM and PM for the rest of the week.
*Other: You can also have Seachem Stressguard on hand (antiseptic, helps reduce stress and heals fins/slime coat). Indian Almond Leaves (Amazon) can be made into an extract to dose some in the tank with each water change (put 1 leaf in a clean or new jar, pour hot water in, cap it, then leave in fridge overnight to steep and cool). It has antibacterial/fungal benefits, reduces stress, mimics their natural environment. *Meds: Seachem has a wide variety of meds when needed, always good to have on hand so you're not scrambling on a Sunday night. The trio: Kanaplex, Metroplex, and Focus (Amazon). Paraguard, Furan 2. Other meds you can search and read on Seachem's website and as needed. Please avoid Bettafix and other "fix" medications as they contain tea tree oil and can damage bettas' labyrinth organ.
Yes you can. For most standard 5 gal and up tanks, you can find a glass top easily.
Bettas come from tropical climate so they need temps of 78-80F consistently.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants->Avoid plastic as they tear fins. Go for soft silk or live. There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-9pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Hi and welcome!
You'll need to fishless cycle the tank, takes 2-6 weeks before you get a betta. This creates a healthy home for your betta. In the meantime, plant, scape, and watch it grow!
10 gal is great to start off! This provides ample swimming room, easier to heat, filter, cycle, and keep it stable.
Tanks: Petsmart has the TopFin 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40. Great Choice is another one for $30, not sure if it comes with a heater or not.
OR Pet Supplies Plus has their dollar per gal sale going on right now. Grab a lid, adjustable heater, and filter.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Filters: -->You can go with a hang on back like AquaClear which will hold lots of media. Put a prefilter sponge on the intake so your betta doesn't get his fins ripped. And a sponge on it to easily baffle the outflow. Same for the internal.
-->Internal like Aqueon Quietflows (super gentle outflow). Always go for 2x the size of the tank, never such thing as too much filtration. Tie a filter sponge around the grates so your betta's fins don't get damaged.
These two, keep the carbon cartridge in the cabinet or toss it and use AquaClear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss. It will outlast many tanks, and makes a great home for beneficial bacteria. Also just rinse in tank water you take out weekly and put it back in, never rinse under tap. Those carbon cartridges are meant to remove meds after medicating or pollutants but not meant to be used all the time as it needs replacing which throws away your cycle each time.
-->Or sponge filter: Materials: (https://imgur.com/a/8gTjHsc) available on Amazon: sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Diagram: https://m.imgur.com/gallery/6GUliCb
If you want some hardscape, driftwood or rocks are nice. Boil driftwood for 1 hr and then soak in a bucket of water till waterlogged or it will float in the tank. If rocks, pour vinegar on top, if it fizzes then no good. If not, give it a good scrub with 1 part vinegar and 4 parts water and rinse very well. Make sure for any hardscape, cut/sand/file down all rough parts so your betta's fins won't get ripped on them. Also, make sure there are 2" gaps between so they don't get stuck going in and out.
There are many live plants out there: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 8am-11am, off, on 6pm-9pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Hi and welcome to bettas! Glad you came here!
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
6 gal is perfect, you can add plants to it as bettas love plants to hide, rest, explore in. He won't be lonely. The bettas we see in stores were bred for aggression and are solitary fish. Some will do fine with snail/shrimp as tankmates, and some won't.
You need to cycle the tank beforehand though, so it's a healthy home for your future friend. You can take this time to plant, scape, etc. Fishless cycling takes 2-6 weeks.
Indian Almond leaves are added because they leach tannins which have antibacterial/antifungal benefits, mimics their natural environment, and can help reduce pH by just a tad (don't go chasing the perfect pH though, bettas can adapt as it's consistent and stable).
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
It says it traps nitrites and nitrates.
I would get other media and toss that out. Filter media info: https://imgur.com/a/7m64K6n (after your cycle, rinse the media in old tank water during water changes each week to get any gunk off and put back in the filter. Never rinse under tap). This is what I did to my filter:(sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter).
I would also stop dosing fish food, that's a messy and often inaccurate way to get ammonia to the proper level to start the cycle. Do a water change and siphon it out well. Refill with new water and add the new media to the filter.
And grab these->
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Hi there,
Treat the water before it goes into the tank. I've used Stability successfully but never used TSS but that works too! Some people dump the entire bottle in and some do it daily. Whatever works for you. I dosed Stability daily for 7 days then let the nitrites ride out and dosed some more when it got to the end.
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Hi and welcome!
Bettas love a planted tank, lots of plants for them to hide, rest, explore in.
Quick synopsis of caresheet:
->Minimum tank size is 5 gallons (about 20 liters) for a regular sized betta, and 10 gallons (about 40 liters) for a king/giant betta
->Bettas need a cycled tank- this requires a filter
->Bettas need an adjustable heater and a thermometer to ensure water temperature stays between 78-80°F or about 26-27°C
->Bettas need silk or live plants and hidey holes with no sharp edges.
->Bettas are avid jumpers, it is best to have a lid
You'll need to fishless cycle, which takes 2-6 weeks so the tank is healthy for your betta.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants->Avoid plastic plants. Either silk (soft cloth material) or live. Live plants are easy as there are many beginner plants! I'll list them below: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 7am-10am, off, on 7pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Hi and welcome!
That one works well. Go for the 10 gal, provides more room, easier to heat, filter, keep it stable.
I like the TopFin Kit, their 10 gal comes with a filter and heater for $40 at Petsmart. I have the 5.5 gal tank, and I like it a lot. I just put filter media inside the filter other than the cartridges (more below on that), and changed the lid to a glass lid, and bought a light for the plants.
Starter tanks are just that, to start out with. So if you plan on having plants in the future, maybe a single tank and then the additional materials would be better option.
I think Pet Supplies Plus has dollar per gal sale going on right now. Check them out if they're local.
You'll also need to fishless cycle the tank:
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Hi and welcome to bettas!
Please fishless cycle before you get a betta. It can take 2-6 weeks. You'll need to cycle the tank beforehand so your betta can come home to a strong and healthy tank. In that time, you can play around with scaping and planting and watch those plants take off! It's really an enjoyable experience (albeit patience is virtue..), and it will pay off in the long run. Please take the time to learn about the nitrogen cycle. It's easy once you get the hang of it and pretty neat how everything works. Your tank will be its own ecosystem :)
You can cycle it quicker by getting cycled media from your local fish store. Some will give it to you and some will sell it to you. But you'll still need to run the tank without fish for a few weeks to make sure the cycle is in fact stable (you'll feed it ammonia and see if it goes from 2ppm to 0 in 24 hours).
Filters: -->You can go with a hang on back like AquaClear which will hold lots of media. Put a prefilter sponge on the intake so your betta doesn't get his fins ripped. And a sponge on it to easily baffle the outflow. Same for the internal.
-->Internal like Aqueon Quietflows (super gentle outflow). Always go for 2x the size of the tank, never such thing as too much filtration. Tie a filter sponge around the grates so your betta's fins don't get damaged.
These two, keep the carbon cartridge in the cabinet or toss it and use AquaClear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss. It will outlast many tanks, and makes a great home for beneficial bacteria. Also just rinse in tank water you take out weekly and put it back in, never rinse under tap. Those carbon cartridges are meant to remove meds after medicating or pollutants but not meant to be used all the time as it needs replacing which throws away your cycle each time.
-->Or sponge filter: Materials: (https://imgur.com/a/8gTjHsc) available on Amazon: sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Diagram: https://m.imgur.com/gallery/6GUliCb
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
->Avoid plastic plants as they tear fins. Either silk (soft cloth material) or live. Live plants are easy as there are many beginner plants! I'll list them below: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 7am-10am, off, on 7pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food->NorthFin Pellets, or Fluval Bug Bites for small fishor Betta Bites, New Life Spectrum. Fast 1 day a week. Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then you can supplement with frozen bloodworms and mysis and brine shrimp. Use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. Cut one cube out, then open, cut a small slice, soak in a small spoon (dedicated to the tank) of tank water and feed a few pieces, and toss the rest if any in the spoon. The rest of the cube goes back in the freezer for use for about 1-2 weeks, then break out a new cube. Ex: Feed pellets in the AM, then frozen at night a few times a week to give variety. Then pellets in the AM and PM for the rest of the week.
->*Other: You can also have Seachem Stressguard on hand (antiseptic, helps reduce stress and heals fins/slime coat). Indian Almond Leaves (Amazon) can be made into an extract to dose some in the tank with each water change (put 1 leaf in a clean or new jar, pour hot water in, cap it, then leave in fridge overnight to steep and cool). It has antibacterial/fungal benefits, reduces stress, mimics their natural environment. *Meds: Seachem has a wide variety of meds when needed, always good to have on hand so you're not scrambling on a Sunday night. The trio: Kanaplex, Metroplex, and Focus (Amazon). Paraguard, Furan 2. Other meds you can search and read on Seachem's website and as needed. Please avoid Bettafix and other "fix" medications as they contain tea tree oil and can damage bettas' labyrinth organ.
>I’m getting a tank tomorrow what size should it be?
40 gal for sorority, heavily planted, and 5 girls min. 20 gal is far too small.
You'll also need to cycle the tank first which takes 2-6 weeks, without fish in it. This is the safest way to make sure the tank is ready and healthy for fish.
We don't recommend sororities here as it's about spacing out aggression, and the girls are stressed 24/7, making them prone to illnesses. You need 5 separate tanks in case fights, nips, illnesses happen which it always does. Betta splendens were and are bred for aggression for many, many years.
If you attempt a sorority, you'll want the min tank size we recommend here so they have better chances.
You can speed up fishless cycling by getting cycled media from your lfs or someone you know. But you have to feed the tank ammonia for a few weeks to make sure it's 100% ready to go. And this time, you can plant, scape, etc.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 3ppm (for 40 gal and above). Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 3-4ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Acclimating: put everything together, substrate, heater, filter, decor, plants, fill the tank up, etc. Make sure it's up to temp (78-80F). Then scoop the betta into a container or baggie and float in the new tank for 30 mins to 1 hr. Then scoop new water from the tank into the baggie for another 30 mins. Then if the baggie water is dirty, scoop some out and continue to add new tank water. Then tilt the baggie and let the betta swim out. This is the best way to avoid shock and stress.
Hi there and welcome!
You'll need to feed the tank with ammonia to get the cycle going. Pure ammonia is easier to measure out. Whenever you put the IALs in, you still need to dose Prime into the new water before it goes into the tank. Chlorine will kill beneficial bacteria and also harm your fish in the future.
->Filter media info: https://imgur.com/a/7m64K6n (after your cycle, rinse the media in old tank water during water changes each week to get any gunk off and put back in the filter. Never rinse under tap). This is what I did to my filter: (sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter).
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Hi there,
>also would like to know how to modify the filter the tank comes with so it is safe for a betta.
I have the same tank and here's what I did with my filter->
Filter media info: https://imgur.com/a/7m64K6n (after your cycle, rinse the media in old tank water during water changes each week to get any gunk off and put back in the filter. Never rinse under tap). This is what I did to my filter:(empty cartridge, sponges behind cut to fit, bio bag to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter).
>This will be a new tank so I’m not sure if it’ll be safe to clean the new decorations with tap water or not. Do I just rinse the decorations off? Do I use soap? If so, what kind of soap? Does it really matter considering my tank still has to cycle before I gets fish?
No soap. Just rinse the tank out with hot water before setting it up. Rinse your decor the same way. What the care sheet means is after your cycle, you wanna rinse decor and such in old tank water you took out during water changes to preserve the beneficial bacteria. When you're starting new, rinse them under tap. Same goes for plants.
>I know that SeaChem prime is the gold standard around here, but are there other products that can be substituted for it?
I don't think so. I highly recommend Prime. It's very concentrated and great for emergencies. I'll list other materials below.
>Do I NEED the pellets to “feed” the live plants? Is the light on this lid even fit for artificial plants or do I need to think about getting a different lid before all of that?
Depends on what plants you get. If planted into the substrate like swords or crypts yes you need root tabs. I'll list those below.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Plants-> Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 7am-10am, off, on 7pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food->NorthFin Pellets, or Fluval Bug Bites for small fishor Betta Bites, New Life Spectrum. Fast 1 day a week. Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then you can supplement with frozen bloodworms and mysis and brine shrimp. Use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. Cut one cube out, then open, cut a small slice, soak in a small spoon (dedicated to the tank) of tank water and feed a few pieces, and toss the rest if any in the spoon. The rest of the cube goes back in the freezer for use for about 1-2 weeks, then break out a new cube. Ex: Feed pellets in the AM, then frozen at night a few times a week to give variety. Then pellets in the AM and PM for the rest of the week.
*Other: You can also have Seachem Stressguard on hand (antiseptic, helps reduce stress and heals fins/slime coat). Indian Almond Leaves (Amazon) can be made into an extract to dose some in the tank with each water change (put 1 leaf in a clean or new jar, pour hot water in, cap it, then leave in fridge overnight to steep and cool). It has antibacterial/fungal benefits, reduces stress, mimics their natural environment. *Meds: Seachem has a wide variety of meds when needed, always good to have on hand so you're not scrambling on a Sunday night. The trio: Kanaplex, Metroplex, and Focus (Amazon). Paraguard, Furan 2. Other meds you can search and read on Seachem's website and as needed. Please avoid Bettafix and other "fix" medications as they contain tea tree oil and can damage bettas' labyrinth organ.
Ofc!
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable. For a 10 gal, go for the 100W.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
I agree wholeheartedly with pure ammonia. Fish food is messy and can be stinky too, and difficult to measure 2ppm of ammonia. What are you planning on stocking it with?
I've used Dr. Tim's ammonia (8-12 drops per 5 gal) with success. I used Seachem Stability to dose into the filter as well with success so I always recommend it, and always have it on hand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F as bacteria grows well in higher temps.
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable. 100W is good for a 10 gal
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp appropriately before you introduce your stock.
I'm so sorry for your loss. The others have provided you with reasons why and I agree.
If you could get a 5 gal or bigger that would make everything a lot easier on the betta and on you, maintenance wise. 3.5 may need 2-3x/week water changes vs the 5 and above 1x/week water changes after the cycle. It's also easier to heat, filter, and cycle and keep that all stable. The more water the more room for error. And also room for your betta to swim, explore, and just zoom around freely. More room to scape and plant as well!
You'll need to fishless cycle as well so that your betta comes home to a healthy home.
Tanks: Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Wow that's high nitrates. You might want to reach out to your local city water because the EPA allows for 10ppm max. I got around 5, 10 in my tap.
Then I would recommend you fishless cycle to completion: -->Fishless cycle guide
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Quick synopsis of caresheet:
->Minimum tank size is 5 gallons (about 20 liters) for a regular sized betta, and 10 gallons (about 40 liters) for a king/giant betta
->Bettas need a cycled tank- this requires a filter
->Bettas need an adjustable heater and a thermometer to ensure water temperature stays between 78-80°F or about 26-27°C
->Bettas need silk or live plants and hidey holes with no sharp edges.
->Bettas are avid jumpers, it is best to have a lid
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food-->NorthFin Pellets, or Fluval Bug Bites for small fishor Betta Bites, New Life Spectrum. Fast 1 day a week. Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then you can supplement with frozen bloodworms and mysis and brine shrimp. Use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. Cut one cube out, then open, cut a small slice, soak in a small spoon (dedicated to the tank) of tank water and feed a few pieces, and toss the rest if any in the spoon. The rest of the cube goes back in the freezer for use for about 1-2 weeks, then break out a new cube. Ex: Feed pellets in the AM, then frozen at night a few times a week to give variety. Then pellets in the AM and PM for the rest of the week.
I recommend switching to Seachem Prime as your water conditioner. It's very concentrated and works well in emergencies.
API Quickstart I thought was just a bottled bacteria. For which I recommend Seachem Stability. I've had success with it multiple times and always recommend it. But you do need an ammonia source.
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend to dose into the filter. Double dose is fine.
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
>tap water treatment, bacteria growth kit, heater, a 3 gallon filter
What brands? I recommend Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, it's very concentrated. Best on the mkt. And Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend to dose into the filter to help the cycle along.
3 gal filter, I would grab something bigger, the bigger the filter the more room for media and it's always good to go for 2x the tank size in filtration.
Filters: -->You can go with a hang on back like AquaClear which will hold lots of media. Put a prefilter sponge on the intake so your betta doesn't get his fins ripped. And a sponge on it to easily baffle the outflow. Same for the internal.
-->Internal like Aqueon Quietflows (super gentle outflow). Always go for 2x the size of the tank, never such thing as too much filtration. Tie a filter sponge around the grates so your betta's fins don't get damaged.
These two, keep the carbon cartridge in the cabinet or toss it and use AquaClear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss. It will outlast many tanks, and makes a great home for beneficial bacteria. Also just rinse in tank water you take out weekly and put it back in, never rinse under tap. Those carbon cartridges are meant to remove meds after medicating or pollutants but not meant to be used all the time as it needs replacing which throws away your cycle each time.
-->Or sponge filter: Materials: (https://imgur.com/a/8gTjHsc) available on Amazon: sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Diagram: https://m.imgur.com/gallery/6GUliCb
>aquatic plants, rocks, and other structures
If the tank is bare, you'll want to add plants. Either silk (soft cloth material) or live. Live plants are easy as there are many beginner plants! I'll list them below: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
If you want some hardscape, driftwood or rocks are nice. Boil it for 1 hr and then soak in a bucket of water till waterlogged or it will float in the tank. If rocks, pour vinegar on top, if it fizzes then no good. If not, give it a good scrub with 1 part vinegar and 4 parts water and rinse very well. Make sure for any hardscape, cut/sand/file down all rough parts so your betta's fins won't get ripped on them. Also, make sure there are 2" gaps between so they don't get stuck going in and out.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 7am-10am, off, on 7pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
>Would items like a ph tester, oxygen pump, and aquarium salt be necessary?
The API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 Petsmart online and Petsmart will price) is a must have. It tests Ph, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Oxygen pump...airstone? Not necessary but if you want you can, it helps with surface agitation to break up biofilm if your filter is baffled which bettas need as they like more gentle flow.
Salt isn't necessary either. It's hard on freshwater fish and should never be dosed into the main tank. If it is to be used, it's in a separate container for a set amount of time then transferred back without the salt. But avoid it for now.
You'll need to fishless cycle-->
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
Since you have your filter now, just wait until you fishless cycle to get another betta. This makes sure that your future betta will come to a healthy home. A tank is an ecosystem in itself. There are beneficial bacteria that needs to develop and grow to convert toxic ammonia (fish waste, debris, etc) to less toxic nitrIte, then to least toxic nitrAte which is best kept at below 20ppm. You'll find these figures by using the API Freshwater Master Kit.
Get some gravel for the substrate as it's easy to gravel vac during water changes. And grab the other materials below needed for fishless cycling.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
How soon are you getting a betta? Because you'll need to fishless cycle the tank beforehand to provide your betta a healthy home.
>What size tank is ideal?
5 gal min we recommend here. The bigger the better as more water dilution allows more room for error. Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40
>Can they have tank mates?
Yes but it depends on tank size and temperament of your betta. Tank size wise, no other fish in under a 15 gal and we recommend a 20 so all have ample swimming room.
For 5-10, snail/shrimp work best. Amano shrimp are bigger and less likely to be eaten. Cherries work as well but are smaller. Ghosts can be aggressive and go after bettas. Nerite snail eggs won't hatch in freshwater. Same goes for amano larvae, so what you get is what you got.
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/tankmates
>And is there a certain tank bottom material they like better
Any substrate you want, whether nutrient rich (degrades over time and sometimes has to be capped or it will be a muddy mess, can leach nutrients leading to spikes in parameters). Or sand or gravel works just as well. Plants will grow in anything as long as supplemented nutrients like liquid ferts and root tabs. More below on that.
Now to the most important thing: fishless cycling. This takes 2-6 weeks.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta
>What kind of live plants?
Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 7am-10am, off, on 7pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Hi and welcome to bettas!
You'll need to fishless cycle the tank before getting a betta. This takes 2-6 weeks which creates a healthy home for your future friend. I do recommend a substrate as it also holds beneficial bacteria, and looks better than a bare bottom tank imo. It can help mimic their natural environment, and it's there when you wanna hop into rooted plants which there are many easy ones!
If you wanna just go for silk, paging u/Dd7990 for options.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Plants-->Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 7am-10am, off, on 7pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
Food-->NorthFin Pellets or Fluval Bug Bites (for small fish or Betta Bites), New Life Spectrum. Fast 1 day a week. Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then you can supplement with frozen bloodworms and mysis and brine shrimp. Use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. Cut one cube out, then open, cut a small slice, soak in a small spoon (dedicated to the tank) of tank water and feed a few pieces, and toss the rest if any in the spoon. The rest of the cube goes back in the freezer for use for about 1-2 weeks, then break out a new cube. Ex: Feed pellets in the AM, then frozen at night a few times a week to give variety. Then pellets in the AM and PM for the rest of the week.
Hi and welcome to bettas! You'll need to fishless cycle the tank as well so your betta comes home to a healthy tank! Take this time to scape, plant, etc.
Filters: -->You can go with a hang on back like AquaClear which will hold lots of media. Put a prefilter sponge on the intake so your betta doesn't get his fins ripped. And a sponge on it to easily baffle the outflow. Same for the internal.
-->Internal like Aqueon Quietflows (super gentle outflow). Always go for 2x the size of the tank, never such thing as too much filtration. Tie a filter sponge around the grates so your betta's fins don't get damaged.
These two, keep the carbon cartridge in the cabinet or toss it and use AquaClear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss. It will outlast many tanks, and makes a great home for beneficial bacteria. Also just rinse in tank water you take out weekly and put it back in, never rinse under tap. Those carbon cartridges are meant to remove meds after medicating or pollutants but not meant to be used all the time as it needs replacing which throws away your cycle each time.
-->Or sponge filter which is the most gentle for bettas: Materials: (https://imgur.com/a/8gTjHsc) available on Amazon: sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Diagram: https://m.imgur.com/gallery/6GUliCb
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->Seachem Prime as your water conditioner
-->Seachem Stability as your beneficial bacteria blend
-->API Freshwater Master Kit ($22 online, stores will price match). Not the strips, those are inaccurate.
-->Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees, I use the 50W Aqueon Adjustable Heater as presets are unreliable.
-->Gravel vac
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food-->NorthFin Pellets or Fluval Bug Bites (for small fish or Betta Bites), New Life Spectrum. Fast 1 day a week. Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then you can supplement with frozen bloodworms and mysis and brine shrimp. Use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. Cut one cube out, then open, cut a small slice, soak in a small spoon (dedicated to the tank) of tank water and feed a few pieces, and toss the rest if any in the spoon. The rest of the cube goes back in the freezer for use for about 1-2 weeks, then break out a new cube. Ex: Feed pellets in the AM, then frozen at night a few times a week to give variety. Then pellets in the AM and PM for the rest of the week.
Plants-->If the tank is bare, you'll want to add plants. Either silk (soft cloth material) or live. Live plants are easy as there are many beginner plants! I'll list them below: Chain stores have plants in tubes that are pest free, rinse well and put in the tank. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are also pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
If you want some hardscape, driftwood or rocks are nice. Boil it for 1 hr and then soak in a bucket of water till waterlogged or it will float in the tank. If rocks, pour vinegar on top, if it fizzes then no good. If not, give it a good scrub with 1 part vinegar and 4 parts water and rinse very well. Make sure for any hardscape, cut/sand/file down all rough parts so your betta's fins won't get ripped on them. Also, make sure there are 2" gaps between so they don't get stuck going in and out.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce also can be attached to decor or driftwood.
Floaters: grows nice roots for rest/hide spots, and use up excess nutrients: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green (dose a few drops after a water change, adjust as needed) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Jungle Val grows tall grass like stalks, and lays over the surface. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Get a few moss balls! They're a lot of fun to have in the tank. I got mine from the cups at the pet store. I take it home, rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for quarantine 1-2 weeks. The cold temp greens them up well. Then, you'll take it out each week once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out, then roll it into a ball again, then put back in the tank. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For beginner plants, most are low light so too much light will cause algae. You should get a timer. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. I have mine on from 7am-10am, off, on 7pm-10pm, then off for the night. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
>The one I am looking at is 3.5 gallons. Should I go for a more natural look or does it not matter to the betta?
5 gal min is what we recommend here. It's easier to heat, filter, cycle and keep it stable. If you can fit a 4 gal on a counter, you can fit a 5 since it's not that much bigger. The bigger the better because the more dilution the more room for error. Easier maintenance too.
Check out these tanks-->Petsmart has the TopFin 5.5 gal tank (comes w/thermometer and hang on back filter) sometimes $24 sale normally $30 OR the 10 gal kit (comes w/thermometer, filter, and heater) for $40.
Right now, Petco's having their dollar per gal sale right now starting with the 10 gal for $10. Grab a lid, adj heater and filter.
>Which pet stores should I avoid when looking for a betta, if any?
Your choice. Chain stores keep them in cups which is bad. Visit your local fish stores and see what they have to offer. If they treat their bettas well, support them!
>What is a normal amount to spend on a betta, including their tank and everything in it?
Tank, substrate, decor, plants, food, water treatment, equipment can differ based on what you get. Maybe around $80-10 maybe lower at times when starting out. I know we change a lot of things and continue to add to the tank which costs more money down the road. It's not a cheap hobby that's for sure.
>More of an opinion question, should I go for a fry (baby), one with fin rot(to help it of course) or an adult one that is completely healthy?
I recommend a responsive betta. Sure you can try and heal a sick betta but if you're a beginner try to find a healthy one. You don't want to deal with medication and the heartbreak if something goes wrong. But it's your decision at the end of the day. I think the betta chooses you just as much as you choose them.
Both the bettas I've had are rescues. One was in a vase for 6 months, one was in a bowl for months. So who knows, maybe you could rescue one too :)
>Also are males or females better, or are they about the same
Females or males, whichever you want. Some females are more aggressive than males. I've only had male bettas, and I love the plakat tail type. Short and zoomy, never issues of snagging or tail biting like other long fins.
Here are some more info, and with prices also so you can see what the cost will be. Substrate either sand or gravel works, $6/5lbs. You'll want 2 bags for 7.5lbs for 2" substrate for rooted plants.
-->Care sheet
-->Materials
-->Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
-->5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
-->Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
-->Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
-->Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
-->Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
-->Write down your parameters to keep track.
-->Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food-->NorthFin Pellets or Fluval Bug Bites (for small fish or Betta Bites), New Life Spectrum. Fast 1 day a week. Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM, 3-4 in the PM). Then you can supplement with frozen bloodworms and mysis and brine shrimp. Use Omega One or Hikari brand for frozen foods. Cut one cube out, then open, cut a small slice, soak in a small spoon (dedicated to the tank) of tank water and feed a few pieces, and toss the rest if any in the spoon. The rest of the cube goes back in the freezer for use for about 1-2 weeks, then break out a new cube. Ex: Feed pellets in the AM, then frozen at night a few times a week to give variety. Then pellets in the AM and PM for the rest of the week.
*Other: You can also have Seachem Stressguard on hand (antiseptic, helps reduce stress and heals fins/slime coat). Indian Almond Leaves (Amazon) can be made into an extract to dose some in the tank with each water change (put 1 leaf in a clean or new jar, pour hot water in, cap it, then leave in fridge overnight to steep and cool). It has antibacterial/fungal benefits, reduces stress, mimics their natural environment. *Meds: Seachem has a wide variety of meds when needed, always good to have on hand so you're not scrambling on a Sunday night. The trio: Kanaplex, Metroplex, and Focus (Amazon). Paraguard, Furan 2. Other meds you can search and read on Seachem's website and as needed. Please avoid Bettafix and other "fix" medications as they contain tea tree oil and can damage bettas' labyrinth organ.
​
UK Amazon Dr Tims. Can be found on ebay as well
Amazon would be Dr Tims or the equivalent, here.
I have an Ace Hardware in the area (USA), so I get their Janitorial Ammonia Hydroxide.
Just noticed you're in the UK. Get this.
https://www.amazon.ca/DrTims-Aquatics-830-Ammonium-chloride/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1IUYHD4JS9OSE&keywords=ammonium+chloride&qid=1552073686&s=gateway&sprefix=ammonia%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-2 shows it for $20CAD still is the price worth the ease of use? depends. If you go with the dry ammonium chloride it breaks down to 1stp/4.5g per 100Gallons/~378 litters which will raise your level to 4 ppm. Use math to break it down to your needs and be sure not to go over 5ppm which will stall your cycle.
I was able to cycle my tank in a week using Seachem Stability and this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-Ammonium-chloride-bottle/dp/B006MP4QG6
Wall of text coming..
There is a link in the sidebar that is super helpful on cycling. I just started my first tank 3 months ago so around 4 months ago I was in the same exact spot as you. I used pure liquid ammonia to manage my cycle. This keeps the tank from getting really nasty using a food only method. It's also probably easier to control. Here's the steps:
Day 1: Fill up your tank with water and dose with a water conditioner (this removes chlorine and stabilizes your water). I use seachem Prime for this.
Day 2: Add in your ammonia using the directions on the back of the bottle.
Day 3: Using API water test kit check that you are seeing a spike in ammonia. Lets pretend your Ammonia is around 1ppm when you test with the kit. Go ahead and dose with your ammonia again with the necessary amount to get it back to 2ppm. Your first couple days ammonia probably won't go down so you might not have to dose at all.
Day 4: Continue to check and dose ammonia. You want to dose your ammonia back to 2ppm-3ppm 1 time each day. I made the mistake and took some days off because I didn't realize it was important to feed the bacteria each day.
Day 5: Check and dose ammonia Day 6: Check and dose ammonia Day 7: Check and dose ammonia
Day 8: Now you can start checking for Nitrite. Also, check and dose ammonia. Day 9-14: Check for Nitrite and also check and dose ammonia. Day 15-21: Check for Nitrite and also check and dose ammonia. You are just trying to watch for when NitrIte starts dropping. You don't need to check this everyday but it just clues you in on how close you are to finishing the cycle.
After 3 weeks continue the exact same steps but you can start checking for NitrAte as well.
Around week 5 or 6 you will notice that after you dose ammonia you will see 0 ammonia reading on your test kit and also 0 NitrIte on your kit after waiting 12-24 hours. This means your tank is cycled and the beneficial bacteria can handle fish waste, food waste, etc. Lastly, you will need to check your NitrAtes again. They are most likely off the charts. Do 50-70% water changes until your reading is under 20ppm and then you can add your fish.
This sounds like a lot of trouble but it really isn't. It takes about 5-10 minutes of your time each day and this is the safest/correct way to start an aquarium. There are other products that allow you to start one very fast but from my reading on here they seem to be thought of as kinda a lazy approach that doesn't guarantee stress free fish. Also, I'd recommend that you think about how long you might be away from home on vacations, etc. I bought a larger tank (29g) as a first tank so it will hopefully stay more stable when I need to be away from home for a while, etc. More water volume = more stability. I already want a larger tank but I'm easily hooked on hobbies.
Edit. Here is the link to the ammonia I used: Dr Tim's Ammonia
DRTim's Aquatics Ammonium Chloride Solution. I found it on amazon
This white bottle I see for sale: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=asc_df_B006MP4QG651221/
I'm not sure exactly what you're asking. Are you talking about a fishless cycle or a fish-in cycle?
Fishless cycles are generally recommended - they are safer for a beginner, because you don't have to worry about the health of any livestock.
To do a fishless cycle, you need to have a source of ammonia. Ammonia will feed the cycle you are trying to establish.
There are myriad ways you can get ammonia. An old (not necessarily recommended) method is to let some fish food rot in the tank. As it decomposes, it produces ammonia. This is pretty inexact and potentially smelly.
A better method is to put pure ammonia into the tank, in measured doses every day. You can use any source of ammonia, but it has to be JUST ammonia. A lot of ammonia you buy in a supermarket or whatever will have additional additives and surfactants in it. You can get pure ammonia from hardware stores, janitorial supplies etc.
The easiest option if you don't want to measure stuff and do math and verify labels is to buy some ammonia specifically for aquarium cycling: http://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-Ammonium-chloride-bottle/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460512207&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=ammonia+for+aquairum
Once you get the ammonia, you dose it as recommended, and you wait. While you wait, you periodically testing your water. Once you have zero ammonia, zero nitrites, and lots of nitrates, your cycle is done. I.e., you add ammonia, and it gets quickly converted to nitrites and then nitrates - your cycle is done!
If you do nothing more, you'll have a cycle after a few weeks and then you can add your fish.
If you want to speed up the process, you can try a bacteria product that adds beneficial bacteria to the tank. Some people recommend Tetra Safestart. I personally have not had success with that.
I have use Seachem Stability to jump-start a cycle. It seems to shorten the usual 4-6 week cycle down to 7-10 days. It's not magic, but it has worked for me: http://www.amazon.com/Stability-100-3-4-fl-oz/dp/B0002APIJ6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1460512346&sr=8-3&keywords=seachem+stability
All of that is before you add a fish. Fish-in cycling is a whole nother ball of wax, and it's trickier: you have to avoid poisoning or damaging your fish with ammonia or nitrite spikes before your cycle completes. That's why it's not recommended.
Once a cycle is established, you have the most important thing for your betta: clean water, and a bacteria colony to help keep it clean.
As far as other things go: bettas are from heavily planted riparian zones in a tropical climate. Whatever you can do to replicate that will make a Betta happy.
Ideally that means a lot of plants (real or fake) and perhaps one or two places to hide. If you want a cheap and easy hide, a coffee mug on it's side works fine, or a terra cotta pot.
Bettas can get bored, so the more stuff they have to explore or stimulate themselves the better.
Watch out for anything that could tear a fin. Bettas usually have super long flowing fins. This is not from nature - it's from selective breeding. Animals with that kind of finnage wouldn't live well in nature!
So you have to be careful not to put in anything sharp that snags them. The most common way to determine this is the 'pantyhose' test: run a piece of pantyhose over a prospective piece of decor, and if it tears, the decor is no good.
Whenever I get driftwood, I carefully sand it so there are no sharp places to snag fins. I also run sandpaper over the flashing (the sharp places from the mold) that come on plastic decor items.
Plastic plants are not usually recommended. Some work, but you have to carefully screen them.
Other things bettas tend to like: floating plants, or tall plants that poke up to or over the water line. They like the shade that tall plants make, and some like to lounge on leaves near the surface.
Some people use fake floating logs or betta "hammocks". Some bettas like them, some don't. http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Laboratories-AZMBL20-Hammock/dp/B0027IZ6KW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460513222&sr=8-1&keywords=betta+hammock
Bettas also like floating plants.
Bettas are not extremely picky fish: they'll live in all kinds of setups. But if your goal is 'make them happy', a tank with lots of plants and some hides is your best bet.
I hope that helps.
PS: One more thing - test strips are not recommended. They tend to be very inaccurate. I was shocked at how crappy they were once I compared their results to a real test kit. If possible, I'd return them and get the API master test kit - it's basically the standard test kit for fishkeeping.
Get a 5 gallon set up with a filter and light built in and get a betta or an ADF(after a fishless cycle[There are pre-diluted ammonia products out there that make this easy], this is /r/Aquariums of course...)
You could go with the Marineland Contour/Portrait(The one in the link is absurdly expensive, I paid about 60 USD for mine.), Tetra Crescent, or one of several different options but they generally work pretty well for a single, small space set up. You might save some money buying a 5 gallon tank, filter, and light from the store though you lose out on the convenience of these being fairly "ready to go" out of the box. I have the Marineland Portrait myself and absolutely love it for one of my bettas.
Aside from the tank/filter(which you should definitely cycle)/light you will need a heater of some description. Unless you are dealing with a cold water animal(You probably won't be at 5 gallons. Unless you want to get 20 gallons for an Axolotl or 30+ for a Goldfish). You will need to keep the water somewhere around 78 degrees Fahrenheit(This is a very general temperature for tropical fish). I recommend the Aqueon Pro Heater. It's expensive but very sturdy and reliable.
Next you get to think about the fun stuff– Decorations! If you do go with a betta, try to stay away from sharp objects. This rules out plastic plants in particular as they can mangle the poor fella's fins. Silk plants(Or live! Low light live plants are great! They won't hurt your fish and will help suck out some of the bad stuff from fish poop! Think Anubias, Pennywort, Anacharis, and Java Fern[ I'll leave you to find links on your own ;D]), carefully chosen decorations, driftwood, and aquarium safe rocks are all good choices for your new friend. You may also want to pick out a substrate. This can vary from clown puke(rainbow gravel) to more natural sand(This stuff is beautiful with a betta) or pea stone. For a simple set up you won't need to worry about nutrient rich Aquasoil or Eco-Complete.
Maintaining an aquarium takes a bit of work, but won't cost you more than 30 minutes per week if you keep up on it. The biggest time-sinks are water changes and scrubbing. I like to do both around the same time. e.g. Scrubbing the glass then sucking up all that extra stuff when I change the water shortly after. Results my vary and it can come to pass that you must clean your tank more or less than someone else but I find a general safe rule of thumb is 20%/week. I usually only do about 10% every two weeks but I have a heavily planted tank that I monitor very closely and overfilter. The excess flow through filter media allows for more nitrifying bacteria to colonize and the abundance of flora means that nitrate stays close to 0. When I change the water it's just to get any excess chemical compounds out/remove detritus. Depending on how your aquarium is set up you may not have the ability to be so lackadaisical as I am with water changes while maintaining pristine water quality. That being stated, bettas in particular are very hardy fish and can withstand pretty nasty water for a short period of time(Not that I would consciously condone such abhorrent treatment of a creature). If you slack a little it won't hurt, but hard work pays off(bettas have been reported to live over five years in captivity. That's pretty amazing for such a small creature)! Algae (aka The reason you scrub the glass) loves light. I would HIGHLY suggest an outlet timer for your lights. Keeping the lights on for no more than eight hours per day along with a break in the photoperiod (Classic example is 4/2/4 Lights on four hours, off two, on four) will help tremendously in the fight against every aquarium's menace. I run the lights on my 5 gallon portrait for a 3/2/3 cycle and see almost no algae forming. Fish are generally okay with at least 6 hours of "direct" light per day; plants require a bit more (Fish have circadian rhythms like we do! If you want to leave the lights on at night, make sure the tank is somewhat dark during the day).
This is all of the general knowledge I can think of off the top of my (albeit drunken) head. Best of luck with your new aquarium!
Pure, bottled ammonia. This is what's used often.
Quick Start is just bacteria in a bottle, the bacteria will need ammonia in the water to survive. If you don’t add fish you can create ammonia by adding fish food to the water, or more reliably you can add pure ammonia via Dr. Tim’s Ammonia or if you live in the US then Ace Hardware sells pure ammonia.
Welcome to bettas!
You need to fishless cycle the tank beforehand. For a 10 gal, I recommend a hang on back filter which takes up less room so you can plant and scape. I used the Topfin 10 Silentstream and it worked great. So do Aquaclears. I’ll give you an example of how to baffle the filter and make it betta safe and also shrimp safe at the same time.
Fishless cycling takes 2-6 weeks and it makes the tank healthy for livestock.
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredient is ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Gravel vac tutorial and a 5 gal bucket for water changes
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose bottled bacteria into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be biomedia (see above list) to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after, but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively, do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Food:
All foods can be found at chain stores and/or local fish stores:
Feed 1 at a time so there's no rotting food that sinks and spikes ammonia (3-4 in the AM/PM, adjust as needed). Then, supplement with frozen brine, mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms: Hikari and/or Omega One. You can also fast 1x/week. If using freeze dried, soak before feeding.
Plants:
There are many easy live plants out there: Chain stores have them, r/aquaswap, etc. Online stores like Buceplant.com have tissue cultures which are pest free. If you get plants from a tank (or not tissue culture), then Google how to dip them and quarantine separately to avoid hitchhikers and parasites introduced into the main tank.
Rhizome plants: Anubias or Java Fern (beginner plants, easy, low tech/light, attach to driftwood or decor or let float, don't bury the rhizome or else they'll rot). Java Moss, Flame Moss, Buce, etc.
- Floaters: Frogbit, Red Root Floaters, Salvinia Minima, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Elodea. Liquid ferts like Easy Green or Thrive by NiclocG (start off with small doses then adjust) works well for these.
Planted: Water Wisteria, Crypts, Dwarf Sag, S. Repens, Amazon sword, Rosette sword, Rotala, Bacopa, Jungle Val, Limnophilia, etc. Root tabs like Flourish Tabs works well for these.
Moss balls: Rinse it out, roll it onto a ball, and put new conditioned water into the cup, then put it back in and into the fridge for qt 1-2 weeks. The cold temps greens them up well. Once they're in the tank, rinse in tank water you siphon out each week or so, then roll it into a ball again. That way they get light and stay green on all sides.
For low tech plants, too much light will cause algae. Timer highly recommended. I use the Century Digital Timer, it lets you program 5+ time sets. 6-7hrs is a good starting point.
For substrate, I recommend gravel or sand, 1.5-2” max. It’s much easier to start with this than soil, but if you want to, you can do soil capped with sand to reduce the mess and the leaching of nutrients.
You need to use liquid ammonia. This is a much easier, accurate, not stinky way to get ammonia up to 2ppm.
What tank size is it?
Dr. Tim's ammonia 8-12 drops per 5 gal to get to 2ppm ammonia). Much easier than guessing with fish food method. Or pure ammonia from a store (make sure the only ingredients are water and ammonium chloride, nothing else).
Aqueon Adjustable heater: set to 78-80 degrees.
Gravel vac tutorial and 5 gal bucket for water changes
How to optimize your filter. This is what I did to my filter: sponge to baffle/adjust the flow, and a prefilter sponge-protects bettas' fins from getting sucked in and shredded, more space for BB to colonize, and keeps gunk from clogging up the filter.
Tips:
Dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then dose Stability into the filter for 7 days, 2 capfuls is just fine. Shake well beforehand.
Make sure the temp is 80-82F, bacteria grows well in higher temps. And also make sure there's plenty of aeration (filter, airstone, sponge filter, etc) which helps the bb colonize as well. Your filter media should be Aquaclear sponges, Fluval Foam, bio rings, and/or filter floss to provide surface area.
Nitrites should show up in 7 days then nitrates could take 2-3 weeks after but it can happen all at once. If nitrites or nitrates are 4ppm+ or 80ppm+ respectively do some pwcs to lower them to 1-2ppm and 20-40ppm as high levels will stall cycles. At this point, you can redose ammonia after the water change, but if you find yourself at the same levels of nitrite and nitrate again, just do a PwC and stop dosing ammonia and let the nitrite convert fully to nitrates. The bacteria will not starve. This averts from going in circles of high nitrite and nitrate which can last for weeks if you keep redosing. Let it do its thing.
Watch your pH as the cycle goes along it will swing pH up and down. At 6.5 ph and lower, it can stall the cycle. I recommend getting the API GH and KH test (Amazon $8), dropper bottle style like the API Freshwater Master Kit to test your kH which will determine if pH will stay stable or not. A kH of 5 or more will keep pH stable. Below that it can swing pH, and there are some solutions for it.
Write down your parameters to keep track.
Redose ammonia to 1-2ppm once nitrites zero out. Then remeasure in 24 hours and if your parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and some level of nitrates you're cycled! Do a PwC and lower the temp to 78-80F before introducing your betta.
Popular alternatives to DrTim’s Aquatics Ammonium C...
Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 500 ml
