What is Reddit's opinion of DROK DCDC Buck Converter, DC 5-40V to 1.2-36V Power Supply Step Down Voltage Regulator 36V 30V 24V 12V 5V 3.3V 8A 100W Adjustable Volt Reducer Module?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

If you are able to make a really nice battery end of the PA, then you can easily and cheaply buy what's known as "Buck Converter" on Amazon or similar. What you would need is a wall power brick that can deliver 2 watts of power or so (the MF PA is rated at 2 watts) and will change your wall AC voltage (at 120V or 220V depending on where you live) to 12V DC. From there you will connect the 12V DC to your buck converter and adjust the converter to output 1.2V or a little more (for hotter temp). The buck converter has to be able to handle 2 watts of power, but those are readily available on Amazon for around $6. Wall brick is another $6 - $10 unless you have one collecting dust somewhere. That's pretty much it. High power buck converter is the magic component and that is exactly what's in the MF PA. here is a link to one on amazon (hope it's okay to post a link. I am not benefiting in any way from it). https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltage-Regulator-Converter-1-2-36V/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=pd_sbs_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00C4QVTNU&pd_rd_r=YH7A9XJTZCYR8TMBH7QE&pd_rd_w=1kwf3&pd_rd_wg=ADaPx&psc=1&refRID=YH7A9XJTZCYR8TMBH7QE

It also took me some time to understand the motor would act as a switch, but apart from that few things I'd ask:

Are the 6V batteries capable of supplying sufficient current?

Measure or look up the coil resistance of the relays. Even a small resistance over the coil can result in a significant voltsge drop at 5A.

Inductive circuit elements (coils, motors) will introduce voltage spikes when relay contacts are switched off suddenly. At 5A the effects could be pretty significant and may result in short device lifetimes.

Altogether, I'd say Instead of batteries and relays you would be better to use a DC-DC converter to step the 12V down to 6V. It's not bulky like a transformer and wouldn't risk reducing current on the motor like relay coils (which would negatively impact motor torque).

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/DROK-Voltage-Regulator-Converter-1-2-36V/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?adgrpid=65148194310&gclid=CjwKCAjwq5-WBhB7EiwAl-HEkjXopmeQLsj0tVTg2B4BNvRL-zGxUgKuz0dP4pNID14yPtkK63IJQBoCsoYQAvD_BwE&hvadid=603058160843&hvde...

Well if you're running the load as 12v you might be able to just get away with using a beefy enough buck driver to just vary the voltage going to the leds. Assuming they can still get suitable max power from the output end of a buck driver module being fed ~12v, you'd be able to just use an onboard potentiometer or add one yourself to just dial down the voltage. Something that can handle 5A or so might not be very cheap though. You'd also probably not have a very desirable ramping and have a small area of the pot you'd actually be using. Not exactly any easier or cheaper to try to build one yourself either.

Here's a random one from Amazon that seems like it would work for you. What I do with those is just measure what the on board trimmer pot value is then just replace it with a larger one I can throw on with extended leads and have a legit knob to turn without needing a precision flathead lol.

Get a couple of these: DROK DC Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator Buck Converter 8A/100W 12A Max DC 5-40V to 1.2-36V Step Down Volt Convert Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B54Ryb49TBWSY

And set them to convert 12v to the voltage and amps you need. Easy.

I went way oversized for sure. More because I used an 8A buck converter that I found on Amazon. I'm quite confident smaller ones will work, but this is what I used: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C4QVTNU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

quick edit, i meant 3kwh of lipo, not 33kwh lol. i wish i had 33kwh.

​

i want to stress that you will need to watch the voltage of the lipo, each cell should not drop below say 3.3v, but some say 3.6v. once the first cell reaches that voltage you should stop drawing power from it.

here is a link that can do what you want:

the first one has become more expensive it appears, last year i could get almost 3 of them for this price. this cheap unit seems to be stable at about 12amps, i think they claim it can do 20 or 30 amps, but dont tell you it needs a fan to run at those higher amps and it will smoke if you run it above 12amps for hours at a time.

​

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4QVTNU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

below is better one: i have destroyed a few of these too, but its been my fault each time.

a better unit that has a much easier interface but cost more:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LPVWX74/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

i want to stress you will need to manually watch the lipo voltage and disconnect it once it gets to a low voltage. once you get good with this stuff, you can find a way to automate the disconnect with low voltage disconnect relays, but i think you should take it one step at a time until you start to see how this all works.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4QVTNU?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_XTF3H018BTZ102DJXE0W I’ve used this.

That's a very common plug. You can easily DIY something like this with a laptop charger and a buck converter off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4QVTNU/