What is Reddit's opinion of DROK Voltage Regulator DC 8-60V to 10-120V 15A Boost Converter, Constant Voltage Current Step Up Module Adjustable Output 48V 24V 12V DC Power Supply with LED Display?

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Here's the boost converter/regulator that I'm using: Drok Numerical Control Regulator DC 8V-60V to 10V-120V 15A Boost Converter, Constant Step Up Module Adjustable Output 48V 24V 12V DC Power Supply with Led Display

This Amazon review mentions staying away from this type of boost converter that is built on a black pcb. The review also mentions a seller called Yeeco. If you browse through those comments, there may be other manufacturers/sellers that are mentioned. https://www.amazon.com/Numerical-Regulator-10V-120V-Converter-Adjustable/dp/B01GFVI6R6

>I am so done with these folks at drok. Every piece I've purchased from them has either not functioned as advertised or simply failed altogether soon after receipt. Take this 900w nc boost converter as they call it. Total crap. None of their boost converters work beyond the 5-6amp range, at which point they begin to behave erratically, outputting only mere fractions of an amp, indicator lights switching rapidly between cc and cv. Their products appear to be well made but as they say "matte black pcb does not a good circuit design make" or something along those lines. Buy the same products from Yeeco, they're identical, minus the green pcb, but they function correctly and last for ages.

And another Amazon review that sounds like what you are seeing:

>This 900w step up is a joke. Even when setting all the way to 15amp, it does NOT even come close to 900watts. It only puts out 0.2amp (8.4watts) at maximum setting. The current adjustment doesn't work. Even set it all the way to 0amp and still puts out 0.2amp. I bought this to boost my electric bike voltage from 36v to 48v and it did absolutely nothing to improve the power or speed. Then I use the 900w step up and set to 42v 5amp to charge my ebike battery (36v 15.6ah) and it took over 3 days to charge from 60% to 100!!! Never ever buying this crap again. I contacted Drok and he was polite and gave me a refund.

https://www.amazon.com/Numerical-Regulator-10V-120V-Converter-Adjustable/dp/B01GFVI6R6

I searched for the full name of that product with Google and found this comment on an Amazon listing:

>I am so done with these folks at drok. Every piece I've purchased from them has either not functioned as advertised or simply failed altogether soon after receipt. Take this 900w nc boost converter as they call it. Total crap. None of their boost converters work beyond the 5-6amp range, at which point they begin to behave erratically, outputting only mere fractions of an amp, indicator lights switching rapidly between cc and cv. Their products appear to be well made but as they say "matte black pcb does not a good circuit design make" or something along those lines. Buy the same products from Yeeco, they're identical, minus the green pcb, but they function correctly and last for ages.

>https://www.amazon.com/Numerical-Regulator-10V-120V-Converter-Adjustable/dp/B01GFVI6R6

I use a Drok boost converter, this one, to step up from my stationary batteries’ 42V to whatever higher voltage I like. It’s great, and works from 5-60V input so it’d work fine for you at 12. Take extra care to triple check the adapter you make for it.

Just an option if you understand battery settings and don't need any guard rails, a constant current / step up is a great candidate for an ebike charger (or any other pack with its own balancing and bms) if you want to save a bunch of money and trust yourself.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GFVI6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3.oxFbN9W3X5N

I have charged all my stuff with these for years and they allow presets. You'll still need a PSU as well.

I just measured the charge profile of the original charger. Then you buy this guy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFVI6R6, you attach it to a battery of your choice of sufficient capacity, and you program it to respect the same charge profile as the original charger. When you are at destination, you plug it in and charge the on-board battery.

The only problem with the ego and using it to charge is that when your internal battery is low <40% and the ego is fullly charged it draws a ~10Amp current. The board wasn’t designed to draw such current. This is why with the ego people plug in theirs around >50% internal battery and ride which decreases the amps.
(I use an ego) If you want to safely charge via ego to a dead internal battery I’d disgust using a voltage and amp regulator DROK Numerical Control Regulator DC 8-60V to 10-120V 15A Boost Converter, Constant Step Up Module Adjustable Output 48V 24V 12V DC Power Supply with LED Display https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01GFVI6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_00EWBbNKW4034

One of these fed by an old ham radio power supply, car battery or any other reliable source of 12v is very handy for anodizing.

Let's you adjust the voltage and current to match the size of the parts.

DROK Numerical Control Regulator DC 8-60V to 10-120V 15A Boost Converter, Constant Step Up Module Adjustable Output 48V 24V 12V DC Power Supply with LED Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GFVI6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ETtHyb0M3HVRC

I found the solution!

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFVI6R6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I found the solution!

Just use this from a 12v battery! Its basically an adjustable DC ebike charger lol

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFVI6R6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

UPDATE - replaces my previous answer.

>The normal dry battery is a BA-289/U which provides 4 different voltages, from one battery block. On receive the requirements are: 90v@3ma, 45v@12ma, 1.5v@550ma, 3v. On transmit the requirements are: 90v@30ma, 45v@8ma, 1.5v@850ma, 3v.

If it were my personal project, I'd power it from 12-13.8V, only because then I could power it flexibly (1) at home with standard power supply bricks, (2) in the field, with a small SLA battery and (3) in the car, with standard car voltage.

You need some tinkering, as you need to generate four voltages (90, 45, 3 and 1.5V) from one input voltage.

For the 90V output, I'd use a programmable regulated DC-DC boost converter like this Numerical-Regulator-10V-120V-Converter-Adjustable ($29 on amazon). I have it and have used it for multiple projects. It's an extremely flexible piece of equipment to have. You'd use it to raise 12 to 90V.

Then I'd get the 45V from the 90V via a voltage divider. It's very small current. You need a 1.8 kOhm resistor with at least 1.1W of power rating. 2W-1.8K-5%25-MO-MISC Maybe spend a little more and get also a heatsink.

Then, I'd get the 1.5V and the 3.0V from the 12V via two distinct buck converters like this one: DC-DC-Buck-Step-Down-Converter-Power-Supply-Module-1-5v-1-8v-3-3v-2A-Dual-Output. They are very cheap. Just buy two of them.

This gives you all four voltages.

You should be able to buy everything for $40. The enclosure for the entire project might end up more expensive than anything else...

The only current rating that is concerning is the one at 1.5 V. The converter I recommended you is rated for 2 A, twice as high as nominal per specs posted by u/oh5nxo below.

Search at Amazon for DC DC boost converter. They typically have adjustable output. This one is $30 and puts out 15 amps. How much does a soundbar take?

https://www.amazon.com/Numerical-Regulator-10V-120V-Converter-Adjustable/dp/B01GFVI6R6/