This product was mentioned in
with an average of
Even without a ground, the exterior of your dishwasher should not have any significant voltage present.
If you're getting shocks, you have multiple issues occurring. A bad ground connection is just one of them. You may also have swapped live and neutral at some point. You may have shorted live to the chassis.
About the only advice I am comfortable giving you is to obtain a receptacle tester and check every outlet involved in the remodel. You will very likely find other issues, or the same issue creating problems in other outlets.
Above is the answer.
Also, do not consult this electrician again after:
> He also said that the the electricity has been "cleaned out" even before the house could use it so it's not possible that it's the grounding.
Former electrician here. Electrical grounding is very important for your safety. That is why the ground line to every outlet is highly regulated, and not optional. That being said, the grounding on any outlet in your home is connected to every other ground in your home. If there is some kind of ground fault, say for example a neutral-to-ground anywhere on that circuit, it can not only cause hum (sarcastic understatement /s)... it can cause a fire! Audio people tend to deal with "hum" and it leads to a phenomena called "audiophile" where bogus suppositions become regarded as audio truths, pretty much any unchallenged supposition eventually becomes a bias over time. That being said, it's not entirely untrue; Many audio cables are unbalanced circuits and generate their own noise. Induction, and RF interference are big contributors to this effect. Anyways, all I can say for your power outlets is to test them with a device mostly because I would not want you to damage your expensive equipment on faulty wiring. I would also highly recommend using a UPS between the wall and the equipment.
I’d add, while you can use a meter and they’re probably best for checking bare wire, these are invaluable for doing quick spot checks, seeing if the switch does indeed control the outlet across the room and well - doing the job they are meant to do.
I think there may be a miscommunication.
I'm suggesting to test the wall socket you are using, or try a different wall socket, for both console and TV. Here's a cheap ground tester that would work: [link] - costs about $8.
Running the PS5 on an ungroudned socket shouldn't hurt it, but it does increase the risk of shock (as you are experiencing) or electrical fires.
Edit: and there are other possible issues too, I'm just relating my own experience here for something to check.
Not so much scam avoidance as a safety heads up, but when you check out a place, you should bring along one of these to make sure the electrical outlets are properly wired:
I didn't do that at our current house, and lo and behold when we moved in we found that only a handful of the outlets in the house are actually grounded. The rest have the triple socket but are only set up with a two-wire system which doesn't ground. After noticing this and unsuccessfully asking the owners of the house we rent to have an electrician come out to ground the outlets, I found out that as long as the wiring in a dwelling is up to code at time of install, (e.g. if two wire electrical was code, so like, the 70s and before), the wiring is considered to code by the city, even though not having a proper ground is potentially dangerous given today's electronics.
[link] (that is a non-referral link, i'm not making money on it)
get a ground tester [link]
start testing outlets to see if its just one outlet or a entire circuit
in a short term you can attach a wire to one of the screws on the case and connect it to a good ground source such as copper plumbing
Also spring for an electrical outlet tester from Amazon and plug it into every outlet. Even if they're 3-prong it doesn't mean they're grounded (a problem that doesn't necessarily need fixing). A full-house rewire can be five figures.
Usually when I see problems like this its because of a ground issue with the house wiring. Even if you have a ground socket, the ground might not be grounded properly. You may have to contact an electrician or use a ground tester
There are outlet tester things you can use to check if your wiring is grounded. [link] they're cheap. Buy one. Read the instructions and test every outlet in your house. If it's an apartment, you should be able to get your landlord to pay for rewiring. Don't plug anything important, expensive or more than like 100-200 watts into an ungrounded outlet.
shocked as in electrically? The power (or your amp) is not grounded correctly. You could get something like this here to check the outlets before you play; you can make sure they are grounded with that.
I believe another option would be to get a power conditioner although I do not know much about it.
Some other appliance in the house is tying common to ground. Your common lead has too much amperage going through it, and some of the electricity is going back through the ground connector. It also seems the ground connector to the house is badly connected (probably just cheated and tied to the common in the fuse box), or floating (not connected at all). This will tell you if you don't like opening the walls. https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
^(I'm going to apologize in advance. I got typing and this turned into a bit of a novel rather than some quick advice. I feel this is all very relevant in the house hunting process, and the wife and I looked at around 100 houses over a 16 month period before settling in the place we're in now. I don't regret any of it, and feel we were very patient and kept our emotions out of the process.)
You can pick up on a lot of issues on a house and rule them out to reduce the need to bring an inspector in if there are obvious errors, but having the contingency gives you an out if something else is found before closing. If the inspector comes in and finds a major issue, this contingency allows you to renegotiate the price, or completely back out with no loss other than the inspectors fee (which will have been well worth it)
Pay attention to the floors as you walk through the house; do they all feel level and even, or can you feel the floor swimming/rolling. Walk in the basement and look at the foundation and framing joists; do you see anything out of the ordinary, cracks, or oddly sistered joists? Most other issues can be fixed relatively simply. Foundation or structural issues could be a massive and costly expense.
Look through the house for signs of water damage; these will appear as discolored rings in drywall and structural members, efflorescence on pipes and walls, and staining on concrete. If anything is found, ask the realtor/seller about them, and ask what was done to mitigate the leaks.
Take a look at the wires exiting the main panel box if exposed, or ask if they wouldn't mind opening up the panel box. Look at the outlets in the house; are they 3-prong outlets? Are GFCI's installed in areas where they would be required (kitchen, bathroom, garage, basement, outside) or are the breakers associated with these circuits GFCI? If you want to pick up a cheap electrical tester you can verify the outlets are wired and grounded properly as well.
Look at the shape of the windows; do they show signs of fogging, or can you see broken seals on the windows? Do they appear they are in rough shape that will need to be repaired/replaced in the near future.
Boiler - Ask seller when the last time it was serviced or replaced. Boilers/heaters have limited life spans, and depending on the age you may need to budget for replacement sooner rather than later.
Roof - When was it last replaced, and how many layers of shingle are on the roof. Roofs typically only allow for 3 layers of shingles, so if they are approaching that limit it could mean a complete removal and replacement when the time comes.
Flooring - What type of flooring is in the house, and if it's carpeting what's underneath it? We found original hardwood flooring under the wall to wall carpet in our house, and were able to refinish it.
IMO none of these items I mentioned are deal breakers per se, but these are all items that need to be considered and budgeted for accordingly on top of mortgage and closing costs. The only thing I don't fuck with personally are structural issues . If I saw anything wrong with the structure of the house, I wouldn't even let my wife entertain that house no matter what the rest of it looked like.
These are items you cannot live without in a house. For us, these were things such as storage, access to gas on the street, and a good neighborhood/school district. Remember that you can always improve a home, but you cannot change it's location (at least it doesn't make financial sense to do so.)
These are items you would like to have in a house, but can live without if you have a house that meets all your must haves. Examples of these for us were 2-car garage, 2nd floor master bedroom,
Items that are dealbreakers for you. Examples for us were houses on main roads (we want to have kids, and main roads are dangerous/loud) and structural issues.
Obviously this is an area where you really need to sit down and figure out what is important to you and whoever you are buying the house with.
One last piece of closing advice is to try and think of this as a financial decision, and keep your emotions out of it. I've seen friends absolutely fall in love with a house, only to discover some pretty significant issues during the home inspection that they should have balked at. Because they let their emotions cloud their judgement, they wound up settling on a house that they otherwise likely would have walked on as a result. It's ok to walk into a house and picture yourself living there, but always be ready to walk away if anything doesn't smell right.
GFCI reset tester...
Plug it into the outlet, push the button, outlet will shut off until reset at where ever the GFCI is located.
If the outlet or breaker was setup wrong it might jack up the grounding for the pc. Might want to get your hands on a outlet tester that shows the various configurations. I suspect computers are more sensitive to the way circuits are setup than say a refrigerator. This might require a electrician.
The other thing that comes to mind is that some component of the pc is drawing too much current and the power supply can't handle it. I'd think it would have protections, but it's possible a cheap component inside it could fail if drawing too much power.
Last thing, make sure you are on a good power strip or ups to save you from surges going forward.
These are very useful.
Something like that. Have you checked turning off your cell phone?
Buy yourself one of these and check the outlet is properly wired too:
You might not have a proper ground at your outlet. Use a simple ground tester to check:
I don't know why you're being downvoted. This sub is full of idiots who read a Reader's Digest Guide to Home Wiring and believe they're electrical engineers.