I use this pair of filters while printing. They sit behind the vat, just on either side of the lift column. The battery in each lasts ~24hrs and I just charge them with a micro USB charger when I'm done printing. The odor is nonexistent while printing. I use standard Anycubic Grey mixed with Siraya Tenacious (80:20).
Welcome to the club! If you've dabbled in FDM printing before, resin printing is MUCH more forgiving. I've been doing this for a few years and have sifted through way too much noise before coming into my own nice groove, so here's what I'll tell you for the best beginner's luck:
- When it comes to settings, don't bother over tuning to the nearest 0.1 seconds for exposure, just give it an extra 20% from default and you'll be just fine. 95% of the time, when people post pictures of "overexposed" prints, they're actually just exposing the next layer while the resin is still being squished out from the plate/FEP when the plate comes back down. Give your printer a few seconds of resting time (a setting in your slicer), and you will have pretty much guaranteed fantastic prints. I've literally doubled the standard exposure time, and I still get prints that are accurate to within 50 microns, because I let my resin come to rest before exposing. Yes, my prints take longer, but I have yet to have a failure.
- I've used about a dozen resins, and Siryatech Build is by far my favorite. It's impressively strong, dimensionally accurate, and stable through curing. It is quite thin compared to most resins so it works better in temps below 80 degrees. Viscosity is important because of my point above. Most importantly, though, it is one of the few resins that is easily machinable and tappable after curing, so I can make insanely strong directly screwed joints with this. Super glue also bonds really, really well to this stuff.
- The printer you have will work great with one of those mini carbon filters. I print in my home office next to my bedroom and I my fiancée doesn't even smell the resin while printing (well, at least when I print with Build resin). Just run the filter while you're printing and it'll be fine, no need to vent outside.
- For cleaning, this is again highly resin-dependent. Here, I'm gonna push Build again, and when you run an extra-long exposure time to *really* cure that resin (I use 4 second exposures with 50 micron layers), prints come out really clean and require minimal post-cure care. I use a spray bottle of 91% IPA (rubbing alcohol) and a fine toothbrush. I don't even bother running it through a post-curing station. Again, this is highly resin dependent, and Build is interestingly good in this respect. Nothing cleans as nicely as Build does.
-Obligatory use gloves all the time for handling resin statement. Not only is it toxic, it also just feels nasty, though if you get it on your person for a few seconds before cleaning it off you'll probably be fine.
- Don't clean your FEP with paper towels, as paper fibers will scratch it. Use cheap microfiber cloths or cotton towels. If you tend to stick with just one resin, don't even empty the vat unless you're not going to print for at least several weeks. Just give it a good stir with your plastic spatula and you're good to go.
You may also want to look into building 2 of these, before you go cutting holes in your red hood. I'm pretty impressed with the design and I'm going to be making 2 of them for myself.
https://4dfiltration.com/resources/mini-p-guide.html
Alternatively, if you don't wan to build them, you can buy the official ones from Elegoo, but getting replacement filters is difficult. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095BTW744/