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Put a 120v relay inside the outlet box. Either leave the outlet, or remove it, cut the plug off, and hardwire the light directly to the relay inside the box.
I use the ones Insteon makes, because I run an Insteon network, but there are z-wave/zigbee ones out there.
Not vouching for this model or brand, but something like this:
Or use a Shelly1, which is wifi/mqtt.
I bought these these since they were cheaper than the Fibaros and they work ok. The devices are all smart relays if OP wants to search for other brands. Shelly v1s or v1s work well if you want to stick to wifi
In addition, they also make little z-wave units that can wire in behind an existing light switch in case you have an odd switch like a dual switch in a sing gang box or something.
ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Relay, Hidden Smart Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights and Ceiling Fans, 120-277VAC, 10A, Neutral Wire Required, ZWN-RSM1-PLUS, Black [link]
Currently controlling Honeywell thermostat with Alexa. Single zone
The purpose of my question is to cool the bedroom(s) at night and let the rest of the house be warmer. I just don't want to drop the cash required for a 4 zone system.
If I wired on or off electrical dampers with something like:
Enerwave Z-Wave Plus ZWN-RSM1 Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights & Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black [link]
Couldn't I simply close off all areas I don't need cooled. I would imagine someone smarter than me could set up a web interface or IFTTT that could reference wifi temp sensors to command av on off based on which dampers were on or off.
I imagine this would work, but not sure what would interface with it. [link]
Yes, if I'm understanding you correctly, that will work fine. My first thought would be to install a zwave micro relay. [link]
Pull the existing switch out of the wall and pull the load line off and tie it to the hot so that your fixtures are all permanently powered. Then wire the Aux of the relay to the open side of the switch. The load of the relay would be unused. You would then setup a virtual switch in smartthings that would follow the state of the relay. The virtual switch would control all of the lights.
End result, you would have indivdual (or grouped any way you want) control of your lights via smartthing. And the ability to turn them all on/off with the wall switch.
I'm a big fan of these [link]
They are small relays that go into your outlet box. You utilize your existing wall switch. The relay is wired so that it monitors the voltage coming from the wall switch. When it changes, it changes the state of the light while adding smart control.
There are some caveats however. The first is that in a single way configuration, the up/down state of the switch is lost. "Up" doesn't always mean "on" and vice versa. This can be confusing to some people. If the switch is up and you use a smart routine to turn the light off, the switch remains up. It may be counter intuitive to then have to flip the switch down to turn it back on. But this is typical with a 3 or more way circuit. Which leads to the second caveat.... It works the same way in a 3 or more way circuit. So you MUST identify which switch in the circuit is the "last" in the circuit before the load that goes to the light.... this is where the relay must be. Also, there must also be a neutral and an always hot in that location. Most newer homes are wired this way... but not all.
I'm keeping all of my existing dumb switches and installing these behind them.
They work in multi-way configurations so i don't have to buy a switch for each one in the circuit, just one per circuit
I have a Wink Hub as my smart controller, then am getting some of these to convert my light switches: [link]
There are also 2 switch versions that would control 2 lights, but basically they act like a 2nd switch for the light but it's hidden in the wall box so both the hub or switch can control the light.
I would suggest using this micro switch [link]
It goes in your switch box and you use your existing light switches to control it. Only need one for the circuit. You'll want to consult the product manual for wiring it up in a 3 way configuration, and depending on your electrical knowledge, may need to hire an electrician. Basically, it needs to go on the "last" switch in the circuit, so you'll need to trace power through the circuit to determine which one it is.
Like this? [link]
Related products on Amazon actually showed me exactly what I remember seeing before also, here's the link!
Stick one of these in the canopy
I think you could do something like this thing, an in wall zwave switch, though I’m not sure of a current brand/model off hand given this one is discontinued.
Z-Wave In-Wall Fixture Module
Think this is what you need:
Look for wifi version of something like this [link] . It roads the on off status of the switch. Not this one requires a zwave hub and a neutral, but there must be wifi versions.
I just really want a gaming chair that has air ventilation like in cars....or water cooled. It's always my back and my ass that gets hot. As far as the ceiling fan control, I would think you could use some sort of zwave fan controller and zwave hub. Maybe one of these:
I think this would work for you.
Is the box deep enough to put in a z-wave relay instead? You can get some pretty compact ones. An example: [link] You would still maintain the physical switch control if needed and add in your z-wave functionality.
>The important question to ask is what kind of 3-phase (they aren’t all alike), and what voltage is our lighting? (A possible answer not compatible with your switch is 277v).
Yeah I mean if he has 3 phase with a neutral they are most likely 277vac. Seems like the z-wave relay/contactor method is the best bet at like ~$40. Can be installed in the ceiling at the fixture or in the switch box - See Here . You can get straight up switches for 277vac but they are price $65 - See Here
You could try this, it's a zwave relay that you can install on dumb switches.
Your worst case scenario is to put 2 remote zwave switches up in the ceiling fan. This will require bypassing the remote module in the fan, and wiring the lights driectly to one of these zwave switches. Secondly, You would remove the wall switch as it won't help this setup (wire it straight through and put a cover on the box.) And finally, you would still have to use the original remote to control fan speed. Maybe put a zwave scene controller panel over the unused wall switch box.
If you open the wall switch box and you find that 14-3 wire was run between the switch and fan, then your options just got alot better. You could expand the box to be 2 gangs, Put in a zwave switch for the lights, zwave fan controller, and send the power down that the black wire, and the other the red. You'll still have to bypass the fan's remote control module, but now for the fan and the lights as the zwave in wall fan controller will handle the speed.
Yup. There are several of these available from Aeon Labs, Monoprice and Enerwave. Enerwave even makes a dual-relay.