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ENGINEER SS-02- it's a 'high end' solder sucker. Jammed itself within one hour of using it. The tip is metal and hot solder got stuck in it and cooled. Could not melt it again to get it out. Was so upset because everyone said it's the last solder sucker you'll ever buy.
My advice? Buy a better solder sucker. I tried for a while with the cheap plastic sucker pump that came with my cheap-as-fuck soldering iron and I just thought I was bad at desoldering but in reality that plastic pump with the hard tip is a piece of junk. I got the Engineer SS-02 that so many people recommend and it's so much better it's nuts. I can actually desolder now.
On the other hand, if you're not in a rush you could also try to find someone with a desoldering station who could remove it for you way easier. Shipping it to someone else and then shipping it back would cost as much as the SS-02 though
The switch pins won't come off, but you need to be careful to not lift the soldering pad if you want to reuse the pcb. Still, that's hard to do with the solder sucker itself. I've desoldered numerous pcb's with this guy: [link]
Just take your time and don't force anything.
Did he over push the cable on the TV's end as well?
Anyway this type of console repair is easy for soldering beginners. You just need basic tools, desoldering braid, flux, a solder sucker and patience. If you want to make your life easier get an Engineer SS-02 solder sucker for a tad more money.
EDIT: So this happens regardless of what cable you test it with? Do you get the buzz with a different device?
Also available on Amazon.
It's a bit more, but hey guaranteed shipping timeframe so it's worth it to me. Thanks for the tip, I've been using wick and about to do a 104 key, let's hope this baby lasts through that.
i think it's still worth working for the most part. it's definitely an experience. i would also recommend this solder sucker with the silicone nozzle and not the cheaper one to get a cleaner suction. good luck either way lol
Adding to this; if the plan is to solder the MCU directly to the board, DO NOT skimp on the solder sucker. The cheap models will not free the board from the PCB if you mess up. You'd need something like this model, at least. Otherwise, I recommend using sockets. It lets you update the board without hassle.
(Also, great recommendation on the May Pad. It's a perfect start for the basics - even for playing around with QMK and different switch types.)
No problem, feel free to DM me with questions.
Highly recommend this solder sucker:
You can heat the pad while holding this sucker over it, leaving a much better suction/experience. Comes with silicone tubing tip replacement. I always preferred copper braided wicks for desoldering, however this sucker changed my mind.
To be honest the manual desolder pump that you can usually get is pretty bad in my experience. I wanted to get one of these but then just considered it a good investment to get a desolder station since it's much less effort and you only heat the pad and the switch for 3 seconds at most, then succ it off :)
Over time I've always used some sort of flux - either crystallised rosin or over the past few years flux, I think one of the latest additions in my kits was copper braid since I saw it how Louis Rossman uses it.
I think the only thing I'm missing is an ultrasonic cleaner because sometimes the PCBs I work on look a bit messy (but they always seem to work lol).
If you're planning to do a lot of desoldering, definitely invest in a good solder sucker. Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker is probably the best one you can get before buying a powered one, this one made desoldering 100+ keys a breeze as long as you keep the heat up and make sure to add a little bit of fresh solder. Don't get the imitation ones, they all eventually break due to the weaker syringe (had the Kotto one and the pump shat itself after 20 desolders).
Add a bit of new lead solder on the difficult ones and I found if I left the iron on while sucking, I had almost perfect results. And TBH I'm using a el-cheapo sucker. Heard great things about this one: ENGINEER SS-02 Solder Sucker Desoldering Pump [link]
If you can accept that you may end up needing to buy a new mouse then I say try your hand at soldering, Its a useful skill to have especially with computer mice, and If you have the right tools it can be a rewarding roller coaster of emotions.
My recommendation for beginners is invest in the engineer ss-02, it a nice simple tool that makes desoldering much easier and will last you a lifetime.
some helping hands to hold the pcb in place are also recommended, but you can also use a big ball of bluetack as well.
There's nothing really wrong with that one. I would say if you can adjust your temperature settings then you should be all good. The solder sucker on the other hand. I would recommend splurging if you can on this. [link]
Because the tip of the sucker is silicone and not plastic it allows for better suction when sucking up solder. It's a good little kit to get started though! Good luck with your repairing endeavors!
[link] got one of these, works like a dream. Silicon tip is heat resistant so you can place it on the iron, and deforms to make a perfect seal when sucking. Great build quality (mostly metal), replaceable tips. Worth every penny. Used it to desilder an entire ram bank in an old ibm, and replace a cartridge connector on a genesis.
if you have soldering tools, you have almost everything you need for desoldering. All you really need is a desolder pump. This one is quite good: [link]
Looks like a nice bit of kit! Using a cheap sucker vs a good sucker makes a ton of difference, I'll bet using that station was even easier! Did it ever clog or require cleaning?
Side note enjoy those speed silvers! I have some speed coppers and they don't get a lot of love here but I enjoy them, especially for the price.
It is a small disaster. You will need to remove the Pro Micro which is going to be difficult.
You will need a decent quality desoldering pump. Make sure you soldering iron is nice and hot, and suck the solder off. I find that when I have got the solder decently removed, and I can see a gap between the header pin and the hole, that if I then go and take some tweezers and wiggle the the pin until it moves, that frees the pin. I recently desoldered an Elite-C in about 20 mins using this technique and this pump.
You can cut through the header pins (including the plastic shroud) to physically remove the pro micro. You will then need to remove header individually. This can be easier because you only need to heat one pin and then tweezer it out. I also think you don't technically need to remove the pins from the PCB, you can just cut them flush.
I just received this one from Amazon today: Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker [link]
It’s an upgrade from an older less functional one I had. The new one has a silicone tip so it is heat resistant. The old one was too large and unwieldy and had a plastic tip.
Dude do yourself a favor and check this thing out: Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker [link]
Best one I’ve ever used, made in Japan, and will literally last my entire life. The build quality of this thing is flat out amazing.
I just got a Ksger T12 a few weeks ago myself. Why do you use such a high temperature?
Is there a reason why you use a wick? I find I have an easier time with a solder sucker. I use this one personally and it's great: [link]
They’re pretty awkward to use tbh. You’ll find wick way more effective in the long run. On a did note there is a solder sucker which exists with a silicone tip which makes a much better seal around the solder you’re sucking up and is far more effective.
solder sucker pump with innovative 'enveloping' silicone nozzle. Made in Japan. engineer SS-02 [link]
But yea I’d go the wick route + plenty of flux every time. Good luck with your new kit
you'll get more use out of this
Id recommend a better desoldering pump. If youre using one of those all plastic ones that usually come with a kit there are better options. I use this one and it works really well though it does seem a bit expensive for just a desolder pump. It also seems counter intuitive but use flux and add a little but of solder when you are desoldering.
Quick de-soldering question:
Using this fancy-feelin' Japanese solder sucker and every time I get a good suck, the the solder jams in the silicon tubing and I have to put my iron down and fish it out with a screwdriver. Is there some technique I can employ to get it out with one hand?
I cannot vouch for the SS-02 enough. It's the best manual solder sucker, and it's well worth every single bit of your currency that you spend it on. A lot of others on /r/mk can vouch for it as well, as it just plain works. I've yet to have had this clog up or fail me in the numerous boards that I have desoldered and soldered on.
ok, that is pretty awesome. yeah, i was gonna say that they are able to be swapped out, and learning to solder and desolder if you don't know how to can actually be a lot of fun. if you have the money for a decent iron and desoldering pump, i'd highly recommend trying it. look for pumps like this, if you do this brand, even better. there are so, so many resources for how to do these things just by searching on the subreddit and carefully going through the wiki, it's how i've learned a lot.
A better sucker. I used this one, and I think it's better than the Tenma desoldering iron. I position it with my strong hand.
I can send you the Tenma for cheap if you want to try use it. I haven't tried a couple of switches, and it didn't work for me. There are other very expensive desoldering irons people can recommend you too.
Nice. Yeah might just get the J-Spacers since finding o-rings is a hassle here in the UK. Out of curiosity, does the greens have a more pronounced bump or is it just heavier? I would assume the latter since the stem is similar to blues right?
Nothing too fancy -- a decent adjustable soldering iron and a high quality desoldering pump. (This part is important because the cheaper ones screwed me over the first time I desoldered). Here's what I'm talking about. For this next project I'm probably gonna invest in a stand since doing it while laying it flat kinda sucks for my neck after some time but I'll see how it goes.
I was researching solder suckers before ordering mine. I saw this one recommended a few times and got it myself. It works great and feels solidly engineered. It also came with replacement nozzles.
Are tips readily available? As on my desoldering station, the tips die pretty quick - I imagine that will happen with this too. I stopped using electric ones and stations - This is the best desoldering tool [link] bar none, I've bought pretty much all of them. Edsyn, hakko station, hakko clones etc. etc. etc.
Yeah I picked up the Engineer pump a few months back...used it a couple times and it was more trouble than it was worth. Having to clean individual through holes one at a time when you have 18 to clean took more time and trouble than wiping with some braid and flux.
It's a handy tool for the right scenario though and it looks sexy af.
I bought this for soldering, works like a charm. The added heat resistent silicon tip means I can press it against the solder iron and really get a good suction on it.
Here, this will help. It's unbelievable how much better the process is with a quality pump, and it's still a fraction of the price of a desolder gun.
Try this one, it’s got a flexible silicone tube that doesn’t melt
Yes, this is the right place! Here's a few things to help you.
You want this sucker. The cheaper ones are a pain in the ass. There is one replacement tube that it comes with, and here's a link for more.
Here's a link to a video guide. It takes a little bit of practice, but it's not terribly difficult.
Have a fan going or get a solder fume extractor!
Amazon has kits you can buy to practice, but it's not THAT difficult.
The only tip I have is use your solder sucker in your strong hand and the iron in your other. I have much better hand control with my right, so I can more accurately place the solder sucker to take it out in one or two tries. Oh, and easy on the caffeine! You don't want shaky hands while doing this.
Yeah no problem. This is by far one of the best desoldering pumps I've ever used. [link]
Buy this. Yeah it's a little pricey for a solder sucker but the thing is amazing. [link]
I‘ll be in Berlin in two weeks and can bring my soldering iron and desoldering Station to fix this with you.
If you want to do it yourself you only need a good soldering station with temperature regulation from Weller or Hakko. A simple high quality solder sucker (I use this one) should be enough for a single switch and it’s not really hard to do it. Just search on YouTube there are plenty of great soldering and desoldering tutorials.
If you plan to desolder more in the future you should definitely consider getting a desoldering station. The one I got from Amazon is not so expensive and if you need to desolder a whole board it saves a lot of time and hassle.
For those wondering, I am using this solder sucker:
You have two options aside from a de-soldering iron:
Definitely! Desoldering sucks without the right tools, me and another user talked a bit about it here. Main thing is get a good solder sucker, and good solder. It'll still be kind of a pain in the butt but you can get into a rhythm, making sure your sucker doesn't get clogged. Put on a podcast/album and be patient!
I still use the cheap weller soldering station I bought to use on that board, but did get a pack of tips to switch in. A finer tip and good thin solder make it really easy once you get to putting switches in. But make sure they're straight, especially if not 5-pin.
You could probably find a used or new, cheap PCB on /r/mechmarket to practice. I just built my own, new 60%. It was harder than I thought but also not terribly difficult. Learning how to desolder (because I'm an idiot and messed up a lot of things) was a more difficult process. Again, not terribly difficult. You could always buy a soldering practice kit on Amazon.
I would suggest you buy a good solder sucker to make your life easier. I recommend this one. I also tried this thing per suggestions on /r/mk but found it disappointing. It doesn't suck out all the solder cleanly when I tried it.
I don't know about the quality or differences between the new and old QFRs or LED process. Some LEDs are separate and are independent of the switches, so you don't have to worry about that. Some are in the PCB themselves, so you don't have to worry about that again. Then there are cherry MX RGB switches which I know absolutely nothing about.
I can’t say for sure, but I would clean it up to be safe. Get your self a good Solder Sucker like this one: [link]
Get one of these:
for cheap you could learn to solder and replace the switches.
Though as u/Wietse10 the g305 is certainly a good option.
Materials for if you want to solder -
Cheaper soldering Iron kit
Yeah I've used this one. Forgot to mention it
I have this pump and enjoy it - [link]
Only slight disappointment is that I have to clean the tip every couple of switches because it can get clogged. However I have desolder a whole 65% with it. This is a good video on it and how to keep it working great - [link]
>I recommend you buy an Engineer SS-02 solder sucker.
I was about to suggest an Edsyn Soldapult (https://www.edsyn.com/product/DS017.html) instead of what looks like a cheap no name solder sucker, but the Engineer SS-02 (https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4) looks like a pretty good alternative.
Having millmaxed myself, and having made a few mistakes in the process, there are several ways of putting a socket into a "dirty hole".
Step one in all cases is to remove as much solder as you can. I would get a solder sucker and use it to remove that solder. Here's what I use: [link]. I once desoldered an entire Roccat keyboard with one of these, and I can recommend it without any hesitation.
Method one: Using the thinnest and pointiest soldering tip you have, use a pair of tweezers to put the millmax socket onto the soldering iron. Then, try to place the socket into the hole using the iron. The iron should heat up the socket, and this heat will eventually conduct to the solder in the hole, which will melt and allow you to push it in.
Method 2: Put a millmax socket onto the tip of something like ifixit's angled tweezers. Then, try to poke it into the hole. If it won't go in, apply the soldering iron to the other side of the board, to heat up the remaining solder in the hole until it goes in.
Keep in mind that I came up with these tips after working with 0305 millmaxes, not the 7305 millmaxes.
It is a little expensive though imo.
But it's the best I have ever used too.
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4 are you talking about this pump?
I recommend you just purchase this Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker [link]
Takes some time but works pretty well and is cheap
I have had to empty it once because some solder was caught in the spring but it is super easy to clean and the tip is a lot better because it is silicone and can be changed. and this is the one I have just in case you are looking at another one.
Engineer SS-02 :: (mfgr) (amazon)
Engineer SS-16 tip for SS-02 :: (amazon)
1.5mm to 3.5mm wide :: [link]
3.5mm wide :: [link]
5.3mm wide :: Chemtronics 80-6-5 :: (mfg) - [link]
If the Hakko is too much for you then this one is decent.
Anything else is crap.
I've had this one for years now, I bought some tubing I replace its tip with every few months and it works great.
This is the one you want - https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=solder+sucker&qid=1606832154&sr=8-5
I used this one from amazon:
this thing is awesome. https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4
the cheap ones work fine, too, but the tips get mangled, and they fall apart sooner or later
if there's a blob of solder on the leg, it's going to warp the socket, so you do want them pretty clean. you don't have to go nuts, though.
also, i disagree that de-soldering a switch is likely to cause harm. usually the biggest risk when desoldering is exposing a sensitive component to too much heat. this switch is likely very far from a sensitive component, and the worst case will probably be a brown spot on the pcb (or simply not being successful at getting the switch off of there). all you need is a soldering iron, one of those $4 plastic solder suckers, and some solder flux. if it's something you might do often, spring for the really nice solder sucker https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4
Takes 5 minutes. https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ this thing has paid for itself a million times over. I have a Hakko FR-301 for the big stuff but this thing is the business.
Are you in the retro group? And yes it is set for one side only which is weird, you'd figure it would just combine both. I ended up bridging L & R at the header and adding two RCA inputs still. Do you have the part number for the built-in speaker so I can order one?
If you want to try desoldering, I highly recommend using this solder sucker: [link]
The soft silicone tips make all the difference.
Save yourself a lot of trouble and get this: [link]
Does your solder sucker have a little silicone tip like this? It makes a better seal between the pad and the sucker, which is nice. It's comparatively expensive, but the Engineer SS02 works very well and could potentially help with this.
You do not need to replace all of the capacitors, only the electrolytic ones. (They look like this: [link]) There may be some SMD capacitors as well, though they aren't too common. If you want to be more specific, you'd use an ESR meter to test each capacitor to find which ones are out of spec. If you intend to not use an ESR meter, test the unit every five capacitors or so. That way if something goes wrong you don't have too much to test.
A powered solder pump is optimal for removal, though you can get away with a decent hand pump. [link]
The service manual suggests you'll have three boards to work on, yes. Be patient and gentle with the component removal; ripping up pads won't do you any good.
No way to say about the Pro Micro unless tested
This is the solder I like MG Chemicals 63/37 No Clean Leaded Solder, 0.032" Diameter, 1/2 lbs Spool
These are the sockets uxcell 20 x 24 Pin DIP IC Sockets Adapters Solder Type Socket
yeah the one i have isn't so good. So i'm thinking of getting this guy
I used this as the solder sucker and this is my soldering station. It works wonders
Engineer SS-02 is the only solder sucker unless you're buying an actual pump rework station.
Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker, got it off Amazon for $26.50 shipped.
Just bought this one. :(
Desoldering is miserable. If you want to make it slightly less awful though, you should invest in a good solder sucker.
Quality solder suckers and wick make a big difference. I couldn't de-solder well until I got the good stuff, then it became easy.