What is Reddit's opinion of
EPAX nFEP Film Sheet 200 x 140mm Thickness 0.125mm for E6/X1 and Other 5.5/6 inch UV Resin 3D Printers, Pack of 3 Films?
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12 reviews of this product found across Reddit:
I'm using water-washable resin, so it's just water and maybe a tiny bit of soap. I'm not sure with "regular" resin. The people on Amazon who have bought it and used it though, have mentioned that IPA can destroy it's non-stick properties.
https://www.amazon.com/EPAX-Thickness-Printer-Wanhao-Photon/dp/B07N7TVWZJ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N7TVWZJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Lemme know if that link works for you.
I didn't think about the Non-US issue. If it does show up for you, I was able to get mine in a couple of days.
The US covid response may be terrible, but I can still get materials for my pointless hobby quickly! Please commence with your USA chanting.
I use these Epax ones and have really liked them https://amazon.com/dp/B07N7TVWZJ/
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/EPAX-Thickness-Printer-Wanhao-Photon/dp/B07N7TVWZJ
I use nFEP sheets. They work better than regular fep sheets. Plus they come in pack of 3.
https://www.amazon.com/EPAX-Thickness-Printer-Wanhao-Photon/dp/B07N7TVWZJ
This is another awesome purchase if you're switching vats.
Following the advice of 3DprintingPro I did buy some nFEP films which are supposedly better than standard FEP film. No idea if that's all the case but I have had 0 problems with these:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07N7TVWZJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The nFEP on Amazon is teflon, so that's a guess.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N7TVWZJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It's probably sold out, the one I bought is now sold out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N7TVWZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_bhGbGb56Q25EQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought mine in the size for the Elegoo Mars, but that was back in September.
>But these isoteric oldworld train cars and company's have been been dead for over 100 years
Usually it's the 3D artist that made the model who licenses it. Most of the stuff shared on thingiverse etc is under a non-commercial or at least Attribution license. This obviously doesn't matter if you're the artist, or have a license/permission.
>What would i need 100 smackers for?
This: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N7TVWZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qjGNFbTMBTH3N
And this resin: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089582G5L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lkGNFbC6YNE9J?psc=1
>Its like thick slimy syrup! I dislike it being so viscous
That's going to definitely contribute to fails. The reason I suggest the Siraya Tech Simple is because it's the least viscus resin I've ever used by a long shot.
To try and salvage your current resin, try soaking the metal build plate in hot water right before you start a print. Most resins will get less viscus as the temperature raises up to about 35°C (95°F) and some are so viscus they can't be printed below 25°C or so.
I also assume you've shaken your resin bottle and stirred the vat (if left idle for more than 24 hours)?
>Oh yes from the beginning i tested the rooks. They print. Haven't made more rooks since the first though. Waste of resin.
Very true, but, if you are having lots of troubles, it can help to revalidate if they print or not.
>Even got my most complicated model to work sever times last week. So it comes and goes...
If it's not sticking to the build plate at all (rather than other types of fails) and short of suction cups or massive fails, it shouldn't pull off the plate.
My take:
With everything you've said, I'd bet your issue is bad resin, bad/loose FEP or both.
Some tips:
Ignore the superstition about lubricating the FEP. Make sure there is Zero moisture or oils or liquid between the FEP and LCD. Make sure the build plate is cleaned with Alcohol or glass cleaner (nothing oily like fingerprints or soap). The tape trick is real, but it doesn't help with fails as much as everyone says, however, it will save your LCD. If you feel like your FEP is sticky with static electricity, then rub it and your LCD with an anti-static dryer sheet. Make sure your FEP is very evenly tight, it will stretch out over time. Don't use a sponge when replacing the FEP, it's too inconsistent, and you only need a little slack when you put in the new FEP (I use a few Q-tip/cotton swabs as spacers). When tightening the FEP, go super slow, alternate bolts, keep the tension even across the whole FEP (if you've changed a tire, kind of like that), don't crank them down all the way (just enough to be very taunt).
I've been reading a lot about non FEP in a lot of groups I'm in and people have said it's great. Here's a link on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N7TVWZJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1E7ZJ14B398M&psc=1&fbclid=IwAR0XSTqkuLn47jRHB4fWbOPkwqQcCF8J5aEDLl1qfD1yQvJID2O1aPQ7o5w
I ordered some but haven't needed to replace yet, once I do I'm going to check it out. Apparently you don't need a bottle cap and the install is much easier than FEP.
Oh god that sounds like a nightmare. I just ordered "non-FEP" sheets from amazon here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N7TVWZJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Supposedly resin is less likely to stick to the FEP which of course decreases failure rate. Eager to test it out!