Maybe. I suggest grabbing a non contact thermometer like this one... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lxJeDbBAWC3ET
You'll quickly realize how hot your pan really is regardless of stove settings. With my stove, my pans just keep getting hotter and hotter, so I'm constantly lowering the setting to maintain an even temp. These thermometers really up your game and at $19, it's a pretty affordable way to do it.
An infrared thermometer is a godsend for knowing how hot a pan is. I learned that from Alton Brown and keep one of these little guys nearby. Prices range but my cheap one does everything I need
Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Infrared Thermometer Non-Contact Digital LaserTemperature Gun-58℉~1022℉ (-50℃~550℃), standard Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TuaHCbBJ8TVJ0
Should get better as the hot attic air in the summer won't travel through your upstairs ceiling. Do you own a temperature gun? They are $20 on Amazon and can show you how hot your ceilings are in the summer.
The air sealing is important, but I question the 11" of blown cellulose. Is that on top of already existing insulation like batts? For PA, you want R38 to R60, so take a look at the R value per inch for blown cellulose. Assuming 3.2 per inch, you're at R38. If you can do more, depending on roof pitch and height, that would be better.
You might also set your thermostat to keep the air circulating in the summer. Between setting the thermostat, air sealing, and adding blown cellulose to the attic, my son's room went from being up to 10 deg F warmer than downstairs to just a few degrees warmer.
It didn't help that it looked like the previous insulation installer just tossed 2" batts around. Don't forget to install insulation baffles so air travels through your soffits to your ridge vents. This helps too keep your attic cooler.
Might try getting one of these, if you're not using temp control...
Carb cap helps for "low-temp" dabbing as well, since DMT vapes @ ~ 320F
Here's a cheap IR thermometer that would probably do the job.
I'd check the air temp coming out of the vent in the hot room vs. the temp coming out in other parts of the house. It might be that the ducting in that part of the house doesn't have enough insulation and is losing a bunch of coldness on it's way to that room. Or it just might be the farthest from the air handler. In any case, cool air coming out shouldn't be any more than around 60-62 at the worst.
It's also worth checking the temperature differential in the air handler between the temp going in and the temp going out. It should be in the 20-30 degrees range at least, i.e. 85 degree air comes in, 55 degree air goes out. You can usually do this with a cheap probe thermometer and is a standard test done by any AC guy that checks out the system.
Home Depot, Lowes, and even Amazon have these handy infrared thermal temperature readers. They are relatively cheap and you can scan the mobo to see if you have any components getting too warm. I would check with that that to see what's going on and then go from there.
Edit: Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~1022℉ (-50℃~550℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OCRrzb8HTB27T
Get a cheap infrared thermometer off amazon. That way you can check the temp of your pan and make sure it is good to go. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1513359192&sr=8-4&keywords=infrared+thermometer This is the one I have. It's like 12 bucks.
Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~1022℉ (-50℃~550℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3P14AbZ9RCK9B This is the one I've used for over a year for my dab setup and it works flawlessly. $17 on Amazon, elegible for prime
That's super good and nice! You should put the thermometers/humidity sensors closer to the bottom where the gecko will be. The other thing you can do is buy an infrared thermometer so you'll know the temp in any part of the tank. I'm looking to get one myself when I can start working again. Here's the one I want. Enjoy your new friend. C: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G?tag=goherping-20
I fostered for a gecko rescue so they had some good tips about quick and cheap (but still safe!) setups.
If cost is an issue for the tank, a 20 gallon long tank is acceptable. The length is really important, mostly because you need to have a hot end and a cool end of the tank, and the standard 20 gal shape doesn’t allow for that. Also, leopard geckos don’t climb much, so it’s better to have more floor space vs. more vertical space.
For a heat source, a reptile heat lamp is fine, but the best is a ceramic heat emitter (CHE). It screws into a lamp-like fixture but it doesn’t emit light, only heat. It’s better than the lamp because you can leave it on all the time for consistent heat. The lamps that emit both light and heat have to be turned off at night.
Make sure you get some kind of thermometer so you can monitor the heat in the tank. There are some thermometers that sit inside the tank. You can also get an infrared thermometer/ “temperature gun” - this is the one I have. I prefer this because it lets you check the heat in different spots in the tank, not just get ambient temp readings.
Good luck! Thanks for looking out for this little guy and making sure he has a safe place to live.
For a substrate, paper towels are honestly a great starter substrate. They’re very safe since unlike sand, the gecko can’t accidentally ingest them. And they’re also super easy to clean - just take them out and replace them once a week, or sooner if you see that they’re dirty. The gecko will tend to poop in the same spot most of the time, so most days you can just check that spot and replace the towel there if needed. Do a more thorough cleaning every couple of weeks (take the gecko out of the tank for this).
I use a Temperature Gun - I don’t recommend using the laser due to how inaccurate that may be, but rather hover the infrared lens 1-2 inches away from the glass for the closest possible reading!
I recommend ditching those and getting two digital ones, one for either side. The kind with the probes.
Analog ones are often completely inaccurate and pose a hazard if they come detached.
Also surface temperatures need a specific decide to read, like a temperature gun. Those will only read air temp.
Like this
Not easy on these types of engines, but feeling the radiator input and output hoses can help tell if any coolant is running through. As another commenter said, the thermostat might be stuck closed.
Be careful, they can be hot though. A cheap infrared thermometer is great for something like this.
Dabrite is like the heady digital thermometer, you can get any IR digital thermometer from harbor freight or amazon like... https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=digital%2Bthermometer&qid=1649861507&sr=8-8&th=1 I've even seem them as low as $8. I have used a few different enails (high end, low end, titanium, silicon carbide, quartz) and even own a d-nail but none of them really do it for me. They can be nice when you have a big sesh going but for everyday dabbing an enail is just too much. Plus it's harder to clean your banger each time, leading to it not lasting as long. That is just my opinion though; I use my quartz banger and torch everywhere, I even have a small travel rigs that I use where a lot of ppl would use a pen.
Probably several times a day until I feel secure in my stuff. Like for example I just got a new CHE that I don’t have on a thermostat yet, I’m constantly checking the ambient temps to make sure I’m not frying the enclosure. I got this one and love love love it. The dog and toddler loves chasing the laser too so it’s a bonus toy.
The Ooni IR thermometer seems overpriced and I’d guess it’s not much different than a bargain one off Amazon. I have this one and it works well $25
btw i highly recommend an infrared thermometer (Etekcity Infrared Thermometer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share).
keep in mind that you want to seed phase V crystals to promote heterogeneous crystallization. that’s what cocoa butter silk is. so you want to keep a sharp eye on your temperatures and not melt away your crystals. a nice thermometer like this that you can just point a laser light is key.
You said the dome you're using already has a dimmer. That should be fine until you can get/afford a dimming thermostat. Another essential tool to get would be a surface temperature reader so you can adjust the DHP to get the correct temperatures.
I'm pretty sure others have commented this too, but tomato sauces usually need a bit of brown sugar to balance the sour/acidity of the tomatoes. Not much, but just enough. Start with just a tsp - a little goes a long way.
I'd also suggest getting an infrared thermometer gun - that way you can check the temperature of your cooking surface as you cook. A quick google search will yield immediate results of the optimum cooking temps for most anything. If in the US, this is the one I have and it works great.
Hey, sorry I didn’t see the thermometers in the tank. You want to remove the red light all together. There is no need to heat the tank at night, as long as the temp doesn’t go below 65 and the light is harmful to their eyesight. I posted the link below for the temp gun on Amazon for the basking temp measurement. 😃
Limited-time deal: Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 1080 Non-Contact Digital Temperature Gun for Cooking, Reptiles, Pizza Oven (Not for Human), 58℉ to 1022℉ (-50℃ to 550℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_A1JHHN4NGEPE7T2D7EJC
I have the exact same issue -- got a half fridge for a birthday gift and the digital temp display is wildly off. Here's what I did: set it all the way cold. Then, check the bottles with a wireless laser thermometer (<$25). On mine, I set it to 48F and it keeps pretty consistent at 55F. You shouldn't need to buy a new unit if it isn't fluctuating wildly. Just err on the side of cold and you'll be fine.
I understand that point. Not having a good temp gun will cause issues. this Is the one I have. Works pretty damn well and I comes with a 9 volt battery. So that was nice. I have heard of masterpenes. I’ll have to read up more on them. You know how it is— you have to check all of it and see if the quality works for you.
My desktop vape has no numbers on the dial, will this infrared thermometer tell me it's temp accurately?
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What you really want is a temp gun like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_7TVPNXV8RQRM74C4R10Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You also really need a tube UVB lamp that overlaps the heat lamp in the basking area. Honestly I highly suggest you start doing a ton of research. Not trying to be a jerk but you're a little behind the curve. Should really have this kind of stuff figured out and ready to go by the time you have the bearded dragon.
This seems to be the most used infared temp gun (i've had mine for almost 2 years now and still works great)
I bought an IR thermometer to keep an eye on pan temp, it makes pancakes much better. Something like this, they go on sale for about $13 fairly often. I try to keep the pan between 350 and 400 degrees.
To know what temp you’re surface is actually at, get a cheap instant read pyrometer from amazon. I have this one and it works great. There’s a bit of cooking knowledge to gain to know what temp your surface should be at, and the pyrometer/thermometer will help you keep it there.
You should probably buy one of these. Amazon.com: Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Non-Contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~1022℉ (-50℃~550℃), Yellow and Black: Kitchen & Dining
this is so helpful, when people say the refrigerator isn't cold enough, or the freezer not cold, or the air conditioner not working. You can go over and read it for them. So far 100% of the time there's not a issue, no need to call anyone. Guest are just being impatient for there groceries to get cold, or for the air conditioner to cool down the house. It takes on average about 2 hours to cool down the house or heat up a house. This device, has made so many guest complaints a non-issue so many times for me. I highly recommend buying one to prove to the guest that so many things are working.
Adding to this - get a cheap infrared thermometer. No more guessing about bed temp, or hot end, for that matter. Read the instructions to make sure you are using the proper distance from surface when testing.
I measure my temps using a temp gun. Specifically one like this. To get a good reading, leave your heat tape as normal, but aim the heat gun inside the tub where it rests over the tape, underneath any substrate. The idea here is to measure the highest temperature spot your snake can actually reach. This would be the spot inside the tub directly over the heat source and under the substrate with a belly heat source like heat tape or a heat mat. A temperature gun can instantly read this surface temperature and give you an accurate reading of what your snake is actually feeling.
I would expect that your actual surface temps inside the tubs are several degrees lower than the tape itself due to the insulation of the plastic tub. It sounds like your temperature probe for your thermostat is between the heat tape and the bottom of the tub, which is a normal set-up. You will likely need to have your thermostat set for a higher temperature than you will actually read inside the tub, again, because of the insulation of the plastic bottom of the tub. As long your surface temperatures don't get too high INSIDE the tub over the hot spot, you should be fine. Just set your thermostat to whatever temperature gives you the desired hot spot temps inside your enclosure.
this is the one that i personally use and it works on the frozen thawed rats and mice that i feed to my snakes.
It's good to know that vaping freebase DMT is not as easy as dabbing or smoking THC. DMT has a very fine tolerance for heat. It will take some practice, and some patience. Do not worry, for some of us, it takes many attempts to get there. Just stick with it, and really focus on researching / perfecting your technique.
If the closest you came was with a banger, then stick with that. I would highly recommend getting a cheap infrared temperature gun so that you know exactly what temperatures you're working with. DMT vaporizes at ~ 160C or 320F. So making sure your banger is around 180C should yield better results. With the lower-temp dabbing, it's also good to have a carb-cap, so your inhale doesn't cool the banger off before you can vaporize your entire dose.
If you are not using an accurate mg scale to monitor your doses...you should. 35mg seems to be thresh-hold dose for most breakthroughs...which means you need to inhale 35mg of perfectly vaped, un-burnt freebase DMT.
While I don't have any scientific data supporting the actual temperatures in which decomposition of DMT occurs (as I am not a chemist), I have 100's of trips under my belt, where I have paid very close attention to the application of heat and the effects a measured dose has.
Incredibly harsh on lungs most likely points to burning. Un-burned freebase is usually pretty mild...and this comes from a non-smoker.
i mean i also have like the sub $20 temp gun off amazon(https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/) or HA i got it for like 15.99 but apparently amazon be doubling up now. just feel this will be a smaller footprint in my backpack.
I just grabbed the first one I found on Amazon. It might have been this one.
Unfortunately, Amazon now shows you pages and pages of contactless medical thermometers before you get to the ones you can use for cooking and general stuff. Wasn't like that when I went looking. :-)
I have something like the below . I would just say beware what shares that breaker to try and not overload it. I'm not an electrician or anything just overly paranoid. I haven't regularly charged yet to get a good idea of how much power I use. I have a short commute so 110v charges it fine and I live 2 miles from a supercharger. I'm still waiting for my registration so I can get the car in my Edison account to get 13¢ off peak rates and a 1000$ credit.
Yep yep! In the same vein I also have a digital heat gun, which I use more for my reptiles, but works just as well for checking heat in spot around your crabitat! Remember you want a gradient, not all the same so your pets can thermo regulate.
...also remember when bathing a bearded dragon not to leave it on the edge of the sink. They don't play well with water. ;)
Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Non-Contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~1022℉ (-50℃~550℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tnNeDbSXYC0KA
Keep in mind these are the cheaper models and not crazy accurate, but compare them to your thermometer in your tank and you get a decent idea of the temperature range they have available.
I start preheating at dead low. On my gas stove, it's at the point that if I turned it down any more the flame would go out. I preheat for around 5 minutes, until the pan is about 350F. Butter sizzles a bit as I put it in. I bought an infrared thermometer (incredibly cheap) and that was a game changer. I might turn the heat up just a smidge once the eggs go in, but you might actually be able to get away with turning it all the way off once the egg goes in, just using the residual heat of the pan. I don't do that, but some people do it that way.
Also note that butter is much more non-stick for eggs. Other oils work well for other things, but eggs like butter.
No. Use the heat mat attached to the thermostat. The infrared thermometer gun is used to measure the surface temperature of the floor. It doesn’t regulate the temperature, just measures it so you know how hot the floor actually is. It’s a point and shoot thermometer that uses a little laser to read the temperature.
You don’t have to get it. It’s just helpful if you want to more accurately measure the temperature of the floor.
I have this one.
It's point and shoot. They are inexpensive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=asc_df_B00DMI632G5507073/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00DMI632G&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167123274900&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=440536336992321356&hvpone=&hvpt.... 16.99 at Amazon.
You scan areas around the house for temperatures different than ambient air.
I just bought this on amazon. Friend recommended it to get the stone to the right temp.
Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~1022℉ (-50℃~550℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EeIcBbPPSDHX0
This is a good thing! Did you clean and lube the slide pins while you were there? If not go back and do that step. A cheap IR temp gun can give you a good idea of whether there is a problem (plus it's fun to play with)
$149?
Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~1022℉ (-50℃~550℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3P14AbZ9RCK9B
I just realized this doesn't have the probe, but why is that necessary?
I have this. Turn off the laser and aim with the big hole. You can easily find them at a depot store in your town too instead of waiting on shipping. Just ask for infrared thermometers.
My first pancake (the one on the bottom of the stack in the picture) was a little light in color and runny when I flipped it and the pan surface was about 350F when I did it. I pumped up the heat a bit to around 370F-375F and then I got that nice sizzle when I poured the batter on. The IR temperature probe gun is one of my most used kitchen gadgets and takes all the guesswork out of getting a properly hot pan for searing and such.
That's not really an accurate way of measuring. If you have no problems I would say maybe that works fine but using one of these will give you far more accurate results.
Good plans. And second the recommendations for a vet check.
If you haven't replaced your UVB light in the past 6 months, or if you're using a compact/coil type fluorescent rather than a tube fluorescent like Reptisun 10.0, I'd also look into changing that.
90 is a little low for the basking temperature; you might consider getting a temperature gun like this for $10-20 to get a more accurate reading on the surface of your basking spot. A lot of the commonly sold in-tank thermometers, especially if they aren't digital, give inaccurate readings.
Temp guns work really well. You want to monitor floor heat.
Also hornworms are treat food in case you didn't know. Couldn't tell from how you wrote it.
> I have an old crappy electric stove in my apartment, which doesn't stay very hot, even on high.
Sounds like we found your problem!
Have you thought about getting an infrared thermometer so you can see how hot the pan actually is? I have this one, Etekcity Lasergrip 1080, and it works really well.
You may want to max out your oven and preheat the cast iron pan in there while the protein is still in the water bath. Then crank the burner up to the max and move the pan to it and let it sit there for another few minutes before you put your meat on.
get an Infrared Thermometer they're cheap now
Did you get the same kind? Make sure you're pointing the right part of the thermometer at the banger (you're using a quartz banger?). It's not the laser pointer part, it's the opening below it. Usually from about 6 inches away, it'll read pretty consistently. Since it's so close, DON'T USE THE LASER POINTER! Or at least don't pay attention to where it's pointing. You want to aim the sensor opening at the banger, not the laser.
Also, it reads in real time, you don't have to hold and release!
Yes, it jumps up and down a little bit at the beginning, probably because it's reading the heat of the air rising around it. But you should be able to read a downward trend, especially after it cools down slightly.
Message me back if you don't figure it out, I'd be happy to post a video or something. I'm super-happy with mine, and would be glad to help you get your working. Good luck!
Meant to reply much sooner, so not sure if you've already found what you were hunting for, but if he keeps reptiles as pets, a heat gun would be a great gift. Something like this.
I've been keeping reptiles for a few decades, and a heat gun is an absolute essential item. You don't know how much you need it until you have one. Hope this helps.
You can use something like this to check temps more easily. It's not the most accurate thing ever, but it's pretty good and ideal for this situation:
The Melexis sensors are pretty quick. It's the same thing they use in IR temp guns. Probably not "instant" enough to catch a falling object reliably, so you'd likely still need an inspection platform.
I would imagine this whole apparatus to basically be a welded steel box (~5mm thick steel or so on a square tube pedestal bolted to the concrete), so it wouldn't really matter if it was on fire or not. It would be oxygen deprived once in the chamber and self-extinguish. That sort of construction would also aid in weather resistance as well as tamper resistance.
I had a thought regarding your reward - spherical objects are probably going to be easier to dispense since they will require no special orientation. You could model your dispenser and feed mechanisms off of a paintball gun hopper system.
What are your power requirements? That might inform how complex you can make it and how many moving parts there are. You could further greenify it by making it solar powered if you live in a suitable climate.
Word of warning, batteries are much more complicated than they seem (see: Samsung). Buy off-the-shelf battery management if you choose to go that route.
Sounds like you've already got the "hiding in the bushes" part down - you just need the tazer now!
With the pad on the way you should be fine anyways.
This ~20$ thermometer is top seller on Amazon and has great reviews it's not 100% accurate of course but certainly good enough to determine an issue with temperatures.
Just buy a good infrared thermometer off Amazon - This is the one I use - and know exactly what your temps are.
This way you know that x temp on your controller , is exactly what temp in realty at your cup. It's the only way to do it right.
Buy a temp gun. Here's one. You don't have to buy this one, just go up to your local home improvement stores and buy one. When you get home with it, pull the substrate to one side of the tank and measure the temp at the center of the heat pad. Adjust the thermostat until your temp gun measures the desired temperature. Then, just spread your substrate back over it.
Buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470622728&sr=8-1&keywords=temp+gun and may you never wonder again. Keep the battery under 100F, the ESC under 130F, and the motor under 150F, and everything is golden. If your motor is too hot, but your ESC is good, put on a smaller pinion gear. If your ESC is too hot, and your motor is good, then yes, you probably need to get a 2s battery for it.
Thanks a lot man.
I think I may just skip the reclaim idea for the FC-187 because it seems too much trouble for what it's worth (I'd only use it as my oil rig until I get a better setup anyways).
The brulee torch is the one I found last night and it's in my cart. I like the idea of the double torch but for about the same price, I'll go single flame with plenty of reviews).
As for temp gun, I was looking at the 1080 because it said the nubee was maxed at ~710f. With your review, I'll go with the nubee.
It's a no contact IR thermometer - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G?psc=1
It can be a little finicky when measuring straight water due to the reflectivity, but I always double check mash/sparge water with a probe. I'd love to upgrade to a thermapen, but that can be pricey.
This was pretty interesting so thanks for doing it. I also want to see something like Andrace said and be able to measure temperature across the tires. I was going to suggest a crude method of taking a infrared temperature gun, but the pyrometer would be a even more accurate way of doing it.
It would be interesting to see temps after each lap, how the pressure affects how quickly the tires warm up/stay at peak temp, current weather, track temperature, length of run, how staggering your pressures affects your temps/times. Just some thoughts for future data.
I just got an infrared thermometer (http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1453419103&sr=1-1) If I had had it on my first grow I wouldn't have cooked two of my plants.
The higher temperature will result in better browning.
They're pretty cheap if you are interested in getting one. They are really handy I find.
Here's what I want to know - why is there an identical one under a different brand name? Is it just a scenario where some Chinese factory makes it and whoever wants to market it can slap their name on it?
(code worked for me, btw)
Edit: the bad reviews mostly seem to be about how inaccurate it is. It's so tempting, because I've wanted one of these since I saw Alton Brown use one years ago, but I think I'll pass.
People will say things like 'screaming hot cast iron'. I disagree.
Let me recommend one of these. Then buy a bunch of high quality unsalted butter and make ghee (just cook the butter very low, crockpot even, until all the layers are seperated. Scrape the fat off the top, then pour the middle layer into a container, do not let the stuff at the bottom get in. You will lose a tiny amount of ghee but it's just butter so don't worry about it.). Ghee won't smoke till like 485. anything between 400 and 450 is plenty hot enough for a good sear.
Cast iron doesn't heat evenly. It retains heat exceptionally well. So what I do is preheat the pan for about 5 minutes on a 4/10 on my stove (flat glass stovetop). By then, at least half the pan's about 400. I throw in the fat, wait for the fat to get up between 400-450 (takes seconds), then drop the seasoned steak on a part maintaining that heat large enough to cover the steak. I do 3 minutes a side at that temp.
Sear's great. I can leave up the smoke alarm. I don't even need to open windows. I don't even put the overhead fan for the stove on...cause there's next to no smoke.
Here's a steak I made last night (half eaten).
I've yet to try, but I will next week; putting a cast iron weight on the steak while it vacuum seals. This, in my head, should keep the steak perfectly flat instead of getting 'scrunched' a little by the vacuum sealing. The only part on my steaks that haven't seared well were where the steak got 'scrunched' and wasn't flat and even. I think that will solve that.
EDIT: Quick note since people like this comment...Someone made a comment that changed my life a bit with sous vide. They said to just cook the meat sous vide, ice bath, then fridge. You can then keep it in the fridge for like 2 weeks (I've never let it go that long, usually within a week) but it ends up being like 75% meal prep'd. Searing takes all of 10 minutes with the pan preheat. Pop steaks out in no time flat.
Applicable point about searing is that from cold is key (3 minutes per side from hot will 100% overcook it).
Please post a picture of your setup, it will really help the experts here to help you. As arcticrobot has said, measure the temps. If you have Amazon, you can order the things you need which will arrive pronto. Get this one, it's cheap and does its job perfectly. You'll need a 9 volt battery for it. You need this to measure basking surface temperature https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=sr_1_3?crid=23399FTWA7AGR&keywords=ir+temp+gun&qid=1553652329&s=gateway&sprefix=IR+temp+%2Caps%2C272&sr=8-3
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This can measure your ambient temp and humidity at 4 different locations within the enclosure https://www.amazon.com/Ambient-Weather-WS-10-8-Channel-Thermo-Hygrometer/dp/B00FX8ZGOO/ref=sr_1_35?crid=1COSYAOR96AH2&keywords=thermometer+hygrometer&qid=1553652539&s=gateway&sprefix=thermometer+hyg%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-35
Sorry, misinterpreted your comment as indicating you didn't have a way to test resistance. Guess it is my bad. Good luck.
One other thing... those infra red thermometers are amazingly cheap. When you turn on the oven the bottom should be getting hot as well as something from the top. The IR thermometer will let you check where the heat is.
An example, I get nothing from the link. search for ir thermometer gun. Picked this one at random.
Looks like the price went up to 25 :( this is the exact one though. Have had it for a year and haven’t had to change that 9 volt that comes with it.
I’ve never heard of that one, but it’s definitely possible you got a faulty one! I hope the bn-link one works well for you (:
Also, if you feel like splurging a bit, a temp gun is an awesome extra safety net to double check your temps. We use this one for all of our little buddies. Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 1080 Non-Contact Digital Temperature Gun for Cooking, Reptiles, Pizza Oven (Not for Human), 58℉ to 1022℉ (-50℃ to 550℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5W8A9GKE0005JHR90KPN
I also found a link to the bn-link thermostat we use! BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Breeding Incubation Greenhouse, 40-108°F, 8.3A 1000W ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_57BEGTPKAW8KVA8XA6CS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Etekcity Lasergrip 1080... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I just got mine off amazon and works fine https://smile.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/
I am also, let's call it, frugal. Got mine on amazon, does the job.
second this, highly recommend you get a temp gun.
easy, convenient & accurate !!
i got this one from amazon.
The probe thermometer you're using measures air, not surface temperatures and it's far too high. Here's a guide to temperature gradients that might help. You also need a surface thermometer to properly measure and adjust the basking area temperature. Overhead heat sources should also be regulated with a digital thermostat if you don't already have one.
Looks great! Especially for a first pizza!
If you don't have an IR gun that goes to very high temperatures, you should get one, so you can have a good idea of how hot the deck really is.
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMI632G/
At much over 700F, it helps to use a flour that doesn't have added malt or enzymes. That can be a real italian 00, sometimes (but not always) domestically produced 00, or just flour that doesn't say "malt" or "enzymes" in the ingredients.
Malted barley contains enzymes that convert starches to sugars and mills add malt flour or enzymes to most consumer-oriented flours to enhance browning at the relatively low temperatures of indoor consumer ovens. But at high temperatures, it just means the dough will burn to a bitter black.
I've gone through almost all of my central milling organic 00, and it's good flour. My nephew was going to bring me another bag on thanksgiving but couldn't due to circumstances, so i picked up a bag of Target's "Good & Gather" store brand organic all purpose flour, which doesn't have malt or enzymes in it, and I'll use that for my high temperature pizzas for the time being.
according to my research, Arrowhead, Martha White, and White Lilly also sell unmalted / no enzymes flour that you can find at regular stores.
(fwiw, I'm generally of the opinion that 'organic' is a grift, but the central milling stuff is cheaper than Caputo)
As long as the ambient temperatures are above 65F in the evenings, he should be good. A surface thermometer is recommended to make sure you're keeping the correct heat gradient throughout the enclosure, especially the basking area temperatures which are needed for proper digestion.
One of these - I use this all the time: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/
So, set the oven for like 300. Let it prewarm for 30 mins. Use this all over the inside of the oven (literally point and "shoot" to get the temperature). If it's supposed to be 300, expect temps between 250 and 350ish. But if it's, say, 450 or 200 then it should be serviced.
You'll most likely have a list of items to take care of, instead of making 20 requests, make one request with 20 numbered items.
This is a basic UVB tube you can find in most pet stores. You can find the casing for it at most petsmarts and petcos as well. Then you’ll need a white basking light like this and a ceramic heat emitter for nighttime IF it gets cold in your house, like this. You need a temperature gun that takes accurate temps like this, the pet stores temperature readers all suck.
You need a surface thermometer for that (an essential tool for reptile care). Your basking area may be too hot during the day. 83-84 is within the recommended range for air temperatures on the hot side.
Ideally, you want a digital thermometer on each end of the habitat to measure air temperature and a surface thermometer to gauge the surface temperature in the basking area, then adjust your thermostat accordingly to get the correct gradient.
This guy :) https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G (or, an older version of it)
Ideally, you want your heat sources to be regulated with a dimming thermostat to help maintain the proper heat gradient. A surface reader will also help monitor temperatures if you don't already have one. If you haven't seen these already, here is a direct link to a compendium of guides that includes a shopping list of essential items and other husbandry information that might give you more ideas for additions or upgrades.
get a laser thermometer like this instead of just relying on touch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMI632G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are the ones that get posted the most:
We have the same one, it works well.
I use a temp gun so reliable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dl_GSFMAZ507AP0Q0C6GQG4
Etekcity temp gun, 20$ on Amazon. Served me well for years
So no idea what kind of range you have, or what kind of pan you have. Do not preheat teflon as it'll off gas and that is bad. Stainless, carbon or cast iron all need a warm up but not a blistering melt down before adding ingredients. So food will stick to a pan for a bit sometimes if you rush the preheat, but will release if you are patient.
Get one of these for the long haul:
https://smile.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G
Learn about smoke point:
https://www.verywellfit.com/smoke-points-of-cooking-oils-4781972
Stainless howto:
https://misen.com/blogs/news/how-to-cook-with-stainless-steel
Temp w/o a thermometer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glGQ8lbG5VU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CB-SCA1reqE
This one even talks about and shows shimmer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qk_OUARlLM
Take one bit of your food item and drag it in the allegedly hot pan, if it sticks, wait, if it slides around, go for it.
Don't crowd the pan
use the temp knob, as chef John says "that's just you cooking"
move the pan off the heat for an electric stove as it doesn't adjust as quickly as gas. Also some of the glass tops have thermostats that pulse, which can make getting things to temp more difficult.
use a quality clad pan -
https://prudentreviews.com/all-clad-d3-vs-d5/
https://prudentreviews.com/3-ply-vs-5-ply-stainless-steel-cookware/ doesn't have to be all-clad, but their pans are great.
Keep practicing and good luck. Remember cooking is a skill that develops not a talent. Learn your tools and techniques and you will get better with practice.
You “might” be able to get a reading from the side but you could also point at heatsink just above it for a close reading.
Here is the thermometer I use. Currently $16 with coupon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/
I've bought several of these mats on Amazon for emergency use when it gets cold. They're great because they have a reostat (the adjustable knob on the cord) built in. It's a great backup for a thermostat because it constantly lowers the voltage going to the mat instead of turning it off and on like most thermostats. HOWEVER A REOSTAT IS NOT A REPLACEMENT FOR A THERMOSTAT.
To get accurate temps at the surface of the tank you should invest in a cheap temperature gun (instant read thermometer gun), and adjust your reostat to give you the surface temp of the hottest place your snake can reach. In a tank this is the glass directly above the heat mat under any substrate or hides. Once you have it set plug it into a thermostat and repeat the process until you are getting the surface temps.
You setup should have the mat directly against the glass at the bottom of the OUTSIDE of the tank with the thermostat probe between the mat and the glass.
You can find some cheap supplies on Amazon to get you started. I use this thermometer and this thermostat. Neither are super expensive and do the job.
This one is good! This thermometer is also a good option if you are on a tight budget.
The 75w halogen will probably be more than enough-you'll probably have to dim it quite a bit, at least in my experience. I use a 38w in my bearded dragon's enclosure at about 12" from the bulb (produces about 105F surface temp).
You can either buy this if your a baller or you could buy the the one I have
22 dollars is a small price to pay for peace of mind and to feel like you are in a sci fi movie: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G
>big horn pizza oven
$80!?!?! what brand/model is $80!??!
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G
I got one of these to help with gauging stone temp. Really helped with avoiding under and over cooking.
Thanks, I'll have to try that. Really love the look.
Btw any chance you have one of these lying around? I am curious about the temps you're using on the iron.
Oh wow, I totally didn't zoom in on your picture! I see the dial now. Digital thermometers and hygrometers are usually much more accurate and reliable. It's helpful to get a temperature gun, too- that lets you take instant readings of the surface temperature of anything you point it at. Good for double-checking that the surfaces in your tank are as warm as they should be, and also serving to confirm that your thermometers are working correctly!
Adding coconut fibers does help to hold in humidity, and can add some volume and texture to a mix. Shredded coconut fibers (the kind you can buy loose or compressed in a brick) aren't great on their own since they dry out very easily and become super dusty when they do, which can irritate your snake's respiratory system. Blended with soil, it shouldn't become dusty unless you tragically neglect the humidity and everything becomes bone-dry. You can also buy pre-mixed soil from places like Josh's Frogs or TheBioDude, but you'll pay more for the convenience, and it's super easy to mix it yourself. Humidity should be at least 70% on average. Small dips and spikes for a few hours at a time are fine, but you don't want to let it get lower than that. Too little humidity and your snake will have trouble shedding and risk getting dehydrated. You also don't want to keep it extremely humid or damp (like 90% or above, constantly)- less common issue, but that's a concern for things like respiratory infections and scale rot. Snakes are hardier than you think, if it takes a few adjustments before your conditions are perfect, it's unlikely that they'll suffer any serious long-term damage. The most important thing is to keep researching and learning, and to fix any issues before they become a problem.
There's a really excellent care guide written for this sub that does a great job of laying out everything you need to know!
It depends on which dispensaries your shopping at but Sunnyside and GrowHealthy seem to have the most reliable website for live up-to-date menus. Of course there's the occasional person who cancelled their order but hasn't been put back on the shelf so an employee may know about the cancellation prior to inventory update.
As far as using concentrates you can go for a recycler which is specifically for concentrates or go for a smaller rig. When looking for rigs you don't want big huge bongs (still can be used but not very efficiently.) Defusion & percolation is personal preference but what I've been told is the smaller the mouth piece the more flavor your able to get. With concentrates you're working with vapor so it's a lot less dense than smoke but can still pack up punch so be careful. My best advise Is to just dive right in. Don't overthink it. HERES WHAT YOULL NEED:
A decent rig ( recycler would be amazing but required)
A GOOD torch.(Don't go cheap on this like a creme brulee torch or tiny torch lighter. Get a good brand like Newport or Big Shot.)
A temp gauge ( here's a cheap Infrared Thermometer which is fine to begin w but I've found better luck with a Dabrite , Terpometer, and Temp Tech.
A Quartz banger (Preferably American glass) [Evan Shore "titty banger"](https://www.710pipes.com/product/evan-shore-titty-banger/ is a great starting banger but it's pricey. If you're looking for cheaper options (Chinese glass) try GeeWestGlassGeeWestGlass & Banger Supply Co.Banger Supply Co..
A CARB CAB! Doesn't matter what style. I prefer long nose bubble caps. My favorites are by SpaceMan The Goon.
If you're okay w solvent concentrates you have plenty of options in this program like TRULIEVE (🤢) but If you're looking for a cleaner solventless option I suggest sticking to Sunnyside (best solventless variety in FL) GrowHealthy (MPX is the best bang for your buck) and Muv. It can seem like a lot at first but it's just a matter of getting used to the learning curve. You'll hear about slurpers,terp pearls, inserts, no inserts, low temp vs cold start, so on and so on but I think starting off w a decent rig, good torch, quality flat top banger, carb cap, torch and temp gauge you'll be able to navigate from there. Good luck! Hope this helped!!!
Sorry for the long link, but I got one of these and it makes monitoring temps super easy. I use it most every fire to make sure I get the pipe up to 500f to start and have also used it for a bunch of other stuff around the house. It's really good for finding cold spots and thus drafts as well.
He uses it for checking pans on the stove, car engine temp, bathwater...we've used it for so many things!
As much as I'd like to just give you a list of things to buy, unfortunately a lot of stuff really has to be set up specifically for your tank and takes some trial and error :) I hope this is helpful and please feel free to ask more questions - I tried to provide some example links but again you may not want exactly what's in all of them.
Any white grow light should do!
The stickied UVB guide would be a really good thing to read to understand the principles behind why we advise providing UVB and what factors have to be taken into account when choosing a bulb. I tried to write it in an accessible way so hopefully things make sense, but if anything is confusing please ask about it! That's why I asked about whether you were getting an albino and what the distance between the lamp and the frog would be - those factors affect what an appropriate UVB bulb choice would be. Unfortunately, I haven't tested the outputs of any Thrive bulbs nor have I seen readings posted by anyone else, so I can't really recommend it based on the lack of information. I'm 100% happy to walk you through choosing an appropriate lamp - I just need more information first haha!
For daytime heat, I really would just go to a Lowe's or Home Depot or something and grab a few different wattages and shapes of incandescent light bulbs to test in a lamp dome for proper temperatures, and then return what doesn't work. I use these. It does take a bit of experimentation, but I would start with as low wattages as you can find. You'll want a temperature gun for measuring surface temps (something like this), and then a digital thermo/hygrometer for the cool end. As long as it's digital and not a dial even a cheap one is likely fine. I like this one because it has probes that you can move around.
For nighttime heat when it's too cold, a ceramic heat emitter like this (but again you may need to play with the wattages - 150W is likely way too much) or a deep heat projector like this would be good! Neither of these produce light. They would also technically be fine to use during the day if you wanted to skip a heat lamp, but neither are as beneficial.
You will also want a dimming thermostat if you decide to go the heat lamp or deep heat projector route, which can be pretty expensive unfortunately. If you just decide to use a ceramic heat emitter (which I wouldn't necessarily recommend as the only form of heat, but it is possible), you can use a cheaper on-off thermostat instead. Here's an example of a dimming thermostat that can control one heat element (and there are other versions that do multiples), and here's an example of an on-off one.
Title: Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 1080 Non-Contact Digital Temperature Gun for Cooking, Reptiles, Pizza Oven (Not for Human), 58℉ to 1022℉ (-50℃ to 550℃), Yellow and Black
Category: Home & Kitchen
Image: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41xy-3KdjDL.<u>SL500</u>.jpg
Features: NOT FOR HUMAN: The thermometer can't measure the internal temperature of an object; Temperature readings from this devices are inanimate objects, the measured temperature for humans or animals will not be correct; Class 2 laser, optical power 0.5-0.9Mw
Price: $22.99 (24% OFF)
<strong>Click here to check the deal</strong>
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I get one of those temp reading lazer pointer gun things:
If you can I’d get a temp gun to check surface temps because a thermometer on the side of tank won’t tell you how hot the basking spot itself is. Then if you get a dimmer switch you can change the intensity if it’s too hot. If it’s too cold without even being dimmed you would need a stronger bulb. Also what’s his UVB light situation like?
Edit:
Link to temp gun: Limited-time deal: Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 1080 (Not for Human) Temperature Gun Non-Contact Digital Lasergrip -58℉~1022℉ (-50℃~550℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_DY8VY4PPNWFQC7809QVZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Link to Dimmer: Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer for Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, TT-300H-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9QNCV4XK540BXWJ9X8X0
I prefer the gun style IR thermometer- you don’t have to lean down, instant readings from shallow or deep end.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_VGVZFbN8W89ZW
For a little extra get a dual laser version (beams converge to show direction and range)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K5QVBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_dlC_LQVZFbRBDBEST
I don't know how big your closet is but I'll assume it's standard size and has a door, that space heater is too much wattage for a small space. You need approx 10 watts per square foot to heat a room or closet. If it's 3 foot x 3 foot = 9 sq ft, 90 to 100 Watts to heat it.
CFL or regular filament light bulbs put out quite a bit of heat. The base of a CFL bulb will get up to around 200F, same for surface of filament bulb. Use whatever you already have, except LED lights, they consume so little power there's little heat generated.
You can control the amount of heating by using more than one bulb, or selecting by wattage consumed by a single bulb, or using high wattage dimmable bulbs with a tabletop dimmer.
You may be able to control the heat so the closet never exceeds 80 F through the day and then you don't need a temperature controller.
One of the best tools I ever got was a hand held non contact infrared thermometer. I use it for all kinds of things. In your closet you can get temp info on any surface or object in seconds, it's a great tool for this project.
Mines similar to this
$25 IR Gun ambient temp reader
$120-200 Terpometer surface temp reader
https://www.theterpometer.com/shop
There are other IR readers out there between $100-250 but I haven't had a problem with my little $20 IR gun and I've been using it for months. More importantly than anything it gives you a point of reference you can work off of. 🤘
You can get infrared thermometers for less than $20 on Amazon.
why would anyone pay $120 less 30% when you can get this for $25 on amazon lol...
no offense man but sounds like a bad biz model.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G
amazon has you covered for $30
>trying to get consistent
Get this . A must have for cooking anything with cast iron.
Wow, that sucks. Sorry to hear. Mind telling me what you use to check temps? I have a thermometer like this, but it doesn't seem to work well.
The temperatures the tower faced were fine, as long as it wasn't locked into a car in a parking lot in the sun. The tower getting hit could definitely cause the problems you have, I remove my gpu whenever I move my system to keep it safe. The only thing holding the card into your case is two screws and a small clip, so the card may flex if it is the tower is bumped.
>It actually is and always has been mounted with the fans pointed toward the ground
I have an issue with my HD 6970 where the card won't boot if the orientation is weird, it's unlikely your problem. My card is a special snowflake.
You should try reflowing the solder with a heat gun (I don't recommend the oven method because it's harder to keep track of the heat and everything is heated). You will want to purchase a laser thermometer to monitor temps, they're like ($10-20 on amazon)[https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G] and super useful for cooking.
IMPORTANT: THE SOLDER CONNECTING THE SILICON TO THE SUBSTRATE MELTS AT ABOUT 130C AND THE SOLDER CONNECTING THE SUBSTRATE TO THE PCB MELTS AT ABOUT 200C. I'll add an edit with an imgur link labeling the silicon chip, the substrate, and the pcb. You will want to heat the silicon chip to 130C first as it is the least invasive way to fix the problem. If artifacts continue, you will want to reflow the substrate to the pcb.
Edit: Here's the link: https://imgur.com/a/1MCDMpB
$12.59 on Amazon! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WUUiAbGQDHWMJ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l995zb9RP8PYP
This is what I use, I also put the pan on a stone, the stone keeps the temp pretty well regulated.
no doubt. half the annoyance of knowing how to program is figuring out what to program (for personal projects).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMI632G/ i think it was 9.99 when i got it. price fluctuates
Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~1022℉ (-50℃~550℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Jwp3zbQJWQ0V4
It was the bestseller on Amazon.
Now I'm gonna break out my infrared thermometer
I have this one and can attest to its awesomeness. Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Non-contact Digital Laser IR Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun, Yellow/Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_h-7AxbYEMQJKJ
Aida64 or MSI Afterburner (or maybe both) and this.
I can't recommend one of these infrared thermometers enough. They will tell you when the pan is hot enough so you get perfect results every time!
Get an infrared thermometer (I have this one) and use it to check the temperature of the stone before you slide the pizza on.
Warm in Oven.
Transfer to an electric skillet to maintain warmth and do your dipping.
Use an IR Thermometer to get your exact temperature.
The temperature accuracy is SUPER important. The IR thermometer has really improved my wife and mom's chocolate results.