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Just a heads-up: Thermoworks products are top-of-the-line for consumer kitchen thermometers, but the only major benefit over cheaper products is the speed to report an accurate temp. But speed isn't an issue with cheaper IR thermometers because IR is an instant reading. Get yourself a $15 IR thermometer on Amazon; it's just as good as Thermoworks for IR.
That AC is broken. You should temp the air coming out of the vents, it should be in the '50's mid-range.
There could be a problem but the motors being very hot to the touch isn't always a bad thing as they can handle very high temps. Do you have an IR thermometer to get a general idea of how hot they are?
A side note to anyone who doesn't have an IR thermometer, I very much suggest one. They may not be extremely precise but they regularly come in handy. Amazon one for $15: [link]
It depends on what depth you’re going for. If you’re just looking for basically surface temp get one of these: [link]
Ps. I would say a quality meat thermometer is going to be more accurate than a random low cost thermometer meant for other purposes.
Have you measure the temperature of your hotend with some external measurement source? I picked up a cheap IR thermometer from Amazon while I was building my Mendel90, and it had been super useful in the "should I touch that yet" department.
It could be that your thermistor is improperly installed, causing your hotend to not be as hot as you think it is.
Here's my el-cheapo IR thermometer:
Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer -58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃～380℃), Yellow and Black [link]
Been using this around the lab for years.
> I don’t have a laser thermometer
I got mine cheaper a few years back, but this is your friend.
It takes a while for them to warm up, but remember 90 isnt very different from our own body heat, so it wont really feel hot or anything. Make sure its making good contact with the floor of your tank.
Get an infared temp gun, they are really cheap and make checking temps super easy and its very important to know your temperatures. About $15 on amazon. [link]
My advice is to invest in a good IR thermometer. ETEKCITY branded ones are affordable and they do the job really well. You can get one that reads up to 380℃ for $16 from Amazon.
I personally don't know the correct temperature for dabbing DMT as I only use full convection vaporisation, but having the IR thermometer will allow you to learn the best temperature and apply it consistently to get the same result every time.
Thanks for being so responsible and loving already!!! You will be a great geck parent.
As stated, your substrate will affect how the heat is transferred. I suggest getting an infrared temperature gun. It uses a laser to measure the surface temperature where your gecko will be laying, so you can fiddle with the thermostat to find the perfect heat setting. I got this one on amazon!
Usually when a gecko isn't eating, 90% of the time it's due to temps being off. They require certain temperatures to properly digest, when they don't get these temps, they can't digest just so instead they just stop eating. Otherwise food would just rot in their gut. Even being 5 degrees off can make a huge difference. You want a solid 90-91f on the warm side. You can get temp guns for $15 off on amazon if you're in the states. I love them, because it can instantly read a temp anywhere in the tank and they're accurate. I have the one and I use it for checking the temps of all my guys.
You could get a thermometer to put in the tank in that area, or you could get an infrared thermometer to measure to the temps in that area if you don't want to clutter up your tank: [link]
and no problem - happy to help
You can also get a digital thermometer gun thingy its a point and shoot. I think it's a must for any reptile keeper. My corn i had for 22 years never needed a heat source at night. Temps drop into the low 70s even high 60s at times in the corn snake natural environment. If you are worried about night time heat look into a heat mat to place under the tank. It also requires a thermostat to not harm your animal. Night lights are the same as normal lights to a snake. If you use one a snake just thinks its day time all the time. I would not use one personally.
Get a temperature gun they’re fairly cheap. Here’s a link
Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 774 (Not for Human) Temperature Gun Non-Contact Digital Laser Thermometer-58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃ ~ 380℃) Yellow & Black, Standard Size [link]
Amazon link to TEMP GUN but they saw us dabbers using it so it’s up to $23 but still. I’ve used it for years. Also, with the laser but I like the put the sensor just under that under my banger for the best temp gauge.
So red hot quartz is at 930degF to get a slight red glow, over 1k if it's bright red. It takes a while for the quartz to cool back down from those high temps to a point where you're not scorching the material instead of just vaporizing it. The 1min wait is the key there. You should buy a cheap IR laser thermometer (they're like $16 on Amazon) and not start dabbing until your banger bottom is nearer 500degF at the max. :)
The high temps explain the chazzing, the scorched material leaves that residue behind.
if you have an infrared thermometer (like this or home depot etc sells them) then you can go for a ~5 mile drive and take the temperature of the front rotors. you'll need to aim at the same radius on the rotor, but basically you're looking for the temperature to be even. If one side is way hotter, it's a sign that the pad is staying pressed against the rotor (which is why it's warping from overheating). There's a few possible causes for pads sticking, including the caliper piston sticking, the slide pins sticking, or the pads themselves binding in the bracket.
Advice may vary on this. Some people do keep a thermometer on both ends. I have one digital thermometer/hygrometer on the cool side. The temperature of the warm side is controlled by the thermostat that’s regulating my heat source. I use my heat gun to regularly check the temperature of various surfaces in the enclosure to ensure my thermostat is working correctly. (I also use the heat gun to check the surface temp of the snake, to check the surface temperature of the food I feed the snake, and to check things like bath water temperature.) This is the heat gun use: [link]
You want the surface temperature of the basking spot to be in the 105-110 range, not the air temperature. Get an Infrared Gun and use that to check the temperature of whatever he/she is laying on when they bask.
I would try to find it somewhere besides a pet store, simply because they tend to markup prices big time.
Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃ ~ 380℃), Yellow and Black [link]
That’s the one I use, got it off amazon, less than $20.
Do you have any way to measure the temperatures in his tank?
It’s okay for them to be a little colder at night, which I still feel like could cause this. But it’s always good to know what kind of conditions our pets are living in.
If you don’t already have one, you can get an laser thermometer gun on Amazon for under $20. [link]
During the day you want their basking spot to be 100-110 Fahrenheit, their warm side around 90 degrees, and the cool side to be around low 80s/high 70s. (If I’m off, someone please correct me!!!)
At night time, you just want to make sure the temperatures aren’t dropping below the low 70s. If they are, you probably need a Ceramic Heat Emitter for night. CHEs just emit heat, no light, so can keep your little guy warm without disturbing his sleep.
I found this to be quite incorrect. Are use a $12 Amazon one that is black and yellow, going from the bottom and not utilizing the laser part but utilizing the sensor in the center half an inch away from the bottom… Somewhere in the range of 6 to 700° is perfect. But that’s just me.
Sure! If you're in a place where amazon is something you can use, I like this one.
Every banger will have a different heat retention. If you truly want to not waste anything go get an IR gun:
Or do a Cold Start
clean your banger well
drop concentrate in clean banger
heat side walls 2x around (about 8 seconds)
cap your banger
heat the bottom until the concentrate begins melting and SLIGHTLY bubbles
reheat if necessary
if you're playing with times, until you get it right you will waste a little wax, it just is what it is. Imo lower temps give more cloud production that higher temps. I go for 550-600F personally, depending on the strain.
As far as inhaling wax down the stem you could either get a deeper banger or not inhale so hard 🤘
[link] I made edibles with a normal cooking one but I ordered this one for my carts
How hot does it get in your garage when this happens? Measure the temp if you can.
Are you fully unwrapping the charging cable? If you leave some of it coiled up it can overheat.
The red triangle basically means a charging fault was detected. I believe the upper outlet LED illuminates when the temperature is too hot but charging will continue for a while after that. If the temperature continues to rise then the triangle LED illuminates and charging is terminated.
Have you tried a fan blowing on the outlet (the thermistor is in the plug) to see if that will help dissipate the heat?
Is the outlet itself very hot? Try watching for when the warning LEDs turn on and then gingerly touch the outlet with your hand. If you wait until later it would likely be cool since the charging was terminated.
Even better would be if you have one of those infrared thermometers (link is for reference, not endorsing this particular one). That way you could see more quantitatively what temperature the plug and outlet are getting to.
Edit: Also, you're not using any kind of extension cord are you?
That's why I recommend an infrared thermometer to make sure you're at the right temperature. With a little practice you won't need it so much, but it's handy.
That's why I recommend an infrared thermometer. It was a game changer for me and cast iron.
It's not the only way to gauge temperature, but it's the most straightforward. You can look at how your fat is behaving (how much it sizzles when it goes in, how it shimmers as you come to temperature, etc.) or you can use the water drop method, or you can feel how hot the handle or the edges of the pan get. But the thermometer is the simplest.
My solution was an infrared thermometer. Yout target for most cooking is between 300F and 400F. Searing is maybe 550F, and I use avocado oil for searing since it has a high smoke point.
Pre-heat on a lower heat, starting at low low and ramping up. I sear at a bit above medium -- with a long enough pre-heat I can easily get to 550F at those heats.
Aluminum has taught us all to use high heat. Aluminum conducts heat very well, but doesn't hold that heat all that well. That means that you get even heat, but the heat quickly migrates away from the cooking surface, meaning that you need to crank up the heat to maintain the proper temperature.
Iron is the opposite. It's a poor conductor but holds its heat like a miser. That means that you need to heat it up slowly or you'll get hot spots -- you need to give the heat time to spread out. Also, if you use high heat, the surface temperature may shoot right past your target temperature. Since it holds heat so well, it will keep heating as you pre-heat, and that makes it great for searing. Its temperature won't drop (as much as aluminum) when you add the food to the hot pan.
Getting an infrared thermometer can be super helpful for making sure you've got your roaster sufficiently hot before adding the beans and understanding how far along the roasting process is at various time intervals. Helped me a ton with this approach as I was first learning what temperatures to use on the stove top.
In the case of the heat rock it's worth it because they are really that bad. They seem like a good idea, but for your new guys safety it should be taken out. As for your original question if you really wanna know what's going on with your temps I would buy a temp gun. Amazon sells a ton of them but this is the one I just bought and it works great, just never point it at your leo. It's possible that he feels secure in the corner and doesn't really like the hide you picked but the temp gun can tell you if it's either too cold or too hot with more specificity then thermometers with probes.
Nothing beats a standard torch and banger set up. If you're having trouble getting your banger to the right temp look into getting a infrared thermometer. Torch your banger and wait for it to hit like ~625 - 650f
I use this guy: [link]
I got one of these for checking temp on mine...helps a lot..
im assuming the cage is directly on the floor? i would recommend getting a laser thermometer (theyre actually pretty cheap on amazon) so you can see how cold the floor of the cage really is. If you can, buy or build something that will raise the cage off the floor, which will allow the warmer room air to circulate under the cage. If you can bump up the room temperature too, that would be best. Once a hedgie has attempted to hibernate, they are more likely to again in the future. 74 is only one degree higher than the minimum recommended temperature of 73 so a higher temp (75-78) would definitely be safer.
It looks wayyyyy too hot based on that picture. Get a temperature sensor gun thing and measure the actual temperature at the nozzle - I wonder if the temperature control is broken and it's actually heating up as much as possible. I guess you could also try doing like 150° or something else that should barely melt the plastic and see if that changes it.
Of course, take good care of husbandry, once you do you’ll feel more at peace lol. Take it from me, I was in a panic because my thermostat was coming late and it was getting too hot below the substrate. Feels good now to have a thermostat handling things for me.
Here’s the links to what I have, good luck:
Usually on the back of the bulb/lamp boxes there will be a little graphic of distance vs heat, so for the basking bulb, find a structure that they can climb onto that is at the height, usually in the 100 to 110 region. For the UVB, i would make sure that a good portion of the tank gets good lighting, especially the basking spot as thats where they spend alot of their lazy boi hours. I used a cheap laser thermometer to check my temps for the first week or so and he seems to be doing ok. Good luck!
Thermometer: Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃ ~ 380℃), Yellow and Black [link]
I didn't have an IR thermometer, but I ordered this one earlier today.
I let the dough warm up almost 4 hours at room temp in some plastic containers w/ lids. I thought that combined w/ the dough recipe made a huge difference because this was way easier to stretch compared to what I was making before. It felt like I could stretch to the 16" w/o tearing, but that seemed too large for the peel I'm using w/o it falling off the edges; idk. The peel is 14x16" and metal. Should I go 18x18" if I'm trying to make a 16" pie? If I'm guessing, I'd say this was closer to 14". The mozzarella was Galbani, and the Pecorino and Parmiagiano came from Trader Joe's.
Hmmm... depending on what part of the US you're in could probably tell you if you need to be concerned about any sort of snake you might see.
Yeah, corn cobs take literal ages to break down. I've had a couple in my worm bin for like 4+ months now, and they've barely put a dent in it.
When you were describing the size of the pile, I was thinking the same thing. That's a beast of a pile; once you've got it down into workable piles it'll be a lot easier/faster to process. I think you're gonna want that 40-50%-50% ratio of old compost to grass clippings to get the pile cooking again. I'm just thinking that 3x3x3 of compost probably weighs close to 500-700lbs depending on moisture levels. You're gonna need a lot of nitrogen to get that cooking let alone your massive pile lol.
Do you have an infrared thermometer by chance? That'd give you a good idea if your chimney gets hot enough on the outside to heat the compost up. Also useful for checking the compost pile's temperature itself.
they are so cheap now and they work great. Technology!
*This is a non affiliated , non shill link. just for an idea of wat to pay - $15
With warmers you'll probably be fine (i.e. no cold tire crashes), but considering the temperature and your pace, the SC2's probably won't give you any benefit over Q3s.
You could get one of those little laser temperature readers and test your tire temp right off the track. If you can't break 100 F, put the Q3's back on.
I see that the heat gun caused the explosion. Is it not safe to use any tempurature readinh gun? I have a digital one I've been that has a laser pointer at the end of it.
Do you think mine could give off a spark??
Obviously only blasting outdoors here with a closed column so I'm as safe as I can be atm but I'm wondering if the temp gun I'm using puts myself in danger. Anyone know if it's safe to use this temp gun or any for that matter??
Etekcity Infrared Thermometer Digital Temperature Gun Non-contact Food Laser Thermometer for Kitchen Cooking BBQ and Bath Water, -58℉~716℉ (-50℃～380℃), Yellow and Black [link]
If not what would be the best/safest way to check the temp of the vac chamber and the pyrex dish water bath?
Really freaks me out seeing this :(
Yep! It can't hurt anything. Once you are low enough that you are getting under extrusion or extruder jamming you should stop. :)
I would also check you thermister and make sure it is making good contact with the heater block. I invested in an infrared thermometer* to double check my hot-end temp. They are even cheaper on AliExpress and Ebay.
If you don't want to rent the FLIR, yes, just buy one of these. It'll get the job done. Honestly though, so will your bare hand. If it's making that big of difference, it'll be obvious.
Oh and the temp gun I use. Always handy to have one of those.
Oh and three hides is ideal. Two is too few. You should have a hot and moist one (to aid shedding, just some damp paper towels/moss/whatever) on the warm side then one on the cold side. :)
Hmm I thought these were $200+! This one on Amazon is $18 and has 4.5 stars. Thanks for the tip.
Oh i guess i paid $18. It works great, even if i had paid $60 i'd be satisfied.
You got good attitude, my friend. Yes, surface temperature of the basking area. You need an infrared temp gun to measure that, as ambient air temp can't tell you exact figures.
Basking surface temp area is one of the most important parameters and often overlooked.
That's good, You are on the right track, kudos to you for reading up and asking for advice :) Also, I might suggest getting a lazer thermometer, that way you can get readings from all over the tank, they are quite reasonably priced
What type of uv bulb did you get? Is it a compact coil shaped bulb? or the long tube kind? You want the long tube kind as they spread out the uv all across the tank, and with the shape your dragon is in, hell need it. The coil bulbs concentrate the uv in one small area and are hard on a dragons eyes.
Can you post a pic of the tank you bought? Maybe we can point out some things to make his life better, not that i dont believe you did your research, just some stores will try to push selling things that really arent great for the animal.
A handheld temp gun will make your day a lot easier, just point and shoot to read the temps instantly. You want about 100* F under the basking light, and about 80* on the cool side of the tank.
Temperature has to be around 300F, maybe a touch lower - use a laser thermometer to get it right. I used to use the water drop test, which works, but there's a big range that it works in. Lasers are better, plus they are fun!
Once you get it up to temp and start cooking pancakes, keep an eye on the temp. I usually lower the heat a bit once I start cooking, but only cook 2-4 pancakes total, so if you're doing more you might have to turn it back up a touch.
This is a bit of a drop in the bucket, but one thing I haven't seen yet is that even if an electronic is turned off, it's still pulling a small amount of electricity. What I've done with a few areas of my house is plug everything into a surge protector (this should be done anyways for expensive electronics) and unplug them completely when you're not going to use them for hours at a time. My PC setup is unplugged for about 18 hours of the day then.
Another option is to see if there are "peak" times your electric company charges more since everyone is using the electricity. Try and avoid doing laundry / dishes around these times.
Move to LED bulbs. They're roughly $2.00 / bulb at this point.
When I added insulation to my attic, my utility company reimbursed 75% of the cost of the material. I found out about this from a free energy audit along with other initiatives that they would reimburse.
You could also try spotting your own leaks with: [link]
> I might try and borrow and IR camera to see how hot the bottom of the stove is getting.
You can get one of these fairly inexpensive IR thermometer guns to check that out. They work surprisingly well and are handy to have around. [link]
I have that under tank heater in my Amazon cart, along with <a href="Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Infrared Thermometer, Yellow/Black [link]"> this temp gun</a>.
I don't know their sexes yet, I haven't even got a pic of them yet bc I didn't want to stress them out more.
I seriously can't tell you which bulb to get at this moment. First we need to know current basking stone temp. And for that you will need this temp gun.
Tough to do because minimal space was left between the thermostat and alarm panel. The only thing I can think of is to get an infrared thermometer and shoot it in the gap between the left side of the alarm panel and see what the temp reads.
Thermometers will only really get the ambient temperature, you should make sure the actual rock is not hotter than 105.
I'd recommend getting one of these. Not expensive and work great.
Not sure how you connect that probe to a rock, but the most accurate temperature reading you will get using infrared temp gun like this.
Buy a thermal gun and see if you have any heat leaks or poorly insulated spots. I know it's an apartment and you may not be able to fix much but at least you'll know if you're getting screwed over, so you can leave.
Use this around outer walls, ceilings, it should all be very close to the room temp. Look for cold spots around the edges of windows and doors. If you find a leak, patch it, it'll save you money.
PS: when buying a thermal gun always check the distance ratio. This gun is 12:1 meaning for every 12" of distance, it's measuring a 1" spot, that's pretty good. Avoid bad ratios (like 1:1) like the plague.
You could buy one of those laser thermometers and once the iron is at running temp use the thermo to see what the surface temp of the plates are at different settings.
The brown of the edges on his fins is already significantly reduced. This makes me happy.
I use a IR thermometer with a laser and he actually chased the laser, as best he could anyway. Then I went and stuck my face up close to check out his fins and he ran off to hide under the filter output again.
My heat is currently shut off. I'm able to maintain a comfortable 68 by utilizing the heat from my neighbors to the sides and below me.
EDIT: some helpful advice
Pick up one of these and scan around any exterior facing areas of your home (from inside) to check for cold spots. Add insulation or caulking or tape up your windows.
Or pick up a thermal imaging camera - FLiR just released a new one that works on iPhone/ Android
Funny meeting you here! I do occasionally wander outside of /r/excel . I have used this infrared thermometer to check for cold spots in my house with great success. Doors and windows are the obvious leak areas, but I have noticed while working on some of the plumbing in my house that areas between walls where there are plumbing fixtures tend to have no insulation , as to allow room to work on the pipes. I also had drafts coming in from the base of my house where I have plumbing and gas lines running. I shoved insulation and or foam anywhere where I noticed meaningfully temp differences and resolved most of my issues. Messy work, though. Congrats on the second, kids are a blast.
They're cheap as hell here is the one I have
That's the link without the referral spam attached.
As a motorcycle racer, we pay a lot of attention to track temps b/c we get different tires depending on the heat. I have my IR surface temp thermometer for reading tire and track temperatures
Hot days can mean ridiculously hot surface temps... as in hot enough to blister your feed in a single step or two
Your friend is incredibly irresponsible and should seriously be talked to. You don't dump an animal on someone who 1) isn't expecting it and 2) doesn't even know how to take care of it.
Get rid of the sand, it's not an okay bedding. You want shredded aspen or coconut mulch for a milk snake. You can find either of these options at most pet stores. Make sure you don't get pine bedding meant for rodents. Give him at least several inches of bedding because milks do love to burrow.
You want to give the snake very small, tight places to hide. They like to be squished, it makes them feel secure. So the coconut hide is too big and open to function as a safe space for a baby milk snake. Look at the pet store for small caves and hide boxes that will just barely fit your snake. You'll need at least two, one for the warm side and one for the cool side.
For the heat, a heat lamp is great but only if used correctly. You'll need an infrared temperature gun to check what the surface temperature of the bedding below the lamp is. You can get one from Amazon, this one is great and cheap. You want the temperature of the bedding to be around 85°f directly below the lamp. You'll want to put one of the hiding spots close to the warmest spot so he can choose to warm up while being hidden. As for bulbs, the one you have is likely going to be too hot but it depends how big your tank is. It might be some trial and error with dimmer bulbs. Have the bulb on for ~14 hours a day, really whenever it's naturally daylight where you live.
Milk snakes are easy and room temperature is fine for the rest of the tank during the day. The light will be off for night and as long as your house stays warmer than around 70° it's okay for the snake to have a night time temperature drop.
You might need to add a humid hide if you notice trouble with shed getting stuck. This is as simple as a Tupperware container with a hole cut into it and filled with damp sphagnum moss. It's just to offer a more humid place for the snake to use.
Grab some silk plants and fill the tank. Snakes like to feel invisible so don't worry if the plants take up a lot of space, he'll love crawling through them.
Milksnakes should be fed once a week as babies and once every 10-14 days as adults. You'll want frozen mice the same thickness as the snake or a little smaller. Thaw it in cold water or in the fridge before meal time and then warm it up with warm water right before feeding. You'll need feeding tongs, snakes like to "accidentally" grab fingers when in feeding mode. Don't pick the snake up for at least 48 hours after feeding to allow him to digest in peace. Also, there is a myth that you should feed in a separate container to avoid cage aggression. This is false and outdated information, just feed him in his enclosure.
Snakes don't require handling and would be perfectly fine without any. But they will tolerate it to some extent. Generally, only handle once or twice a week for 5-10 minutes maximum.
Clean up poop/urates as you see them, clean and refill the water dish at least every few days. Eventually you'll want to replace all the bedding. Depending on the snake and size of the tank, this could be every 3 months or every 9 months, just judge when the bedding is getting smelly.
If you want to try and find where they are coming in, or locate the nest by yourself, you can rent one of these from the Tumwater Home Depot for about $50 and look for hotspots:
This is a pdf example of how to use an IR camera to find wasps.
Or Amazon has cheap IR thermometers without cameras that you could do the same with.
But, insects are specifically a landlord duty by Washington State law, so you should read up on that to know your rights, then find legal help at that last link:
You should always use smile.amazon.com! Same price, same everything, except 0.5% of your purchase goes to the charity of your choice!
Here's your link using Amazon Smile
They're actually only about $18 on Amazon.
15 bucks on amazon and will give you instant temperature readings unlike a dial or probe thermometer
I have a t8 set up with almost everything you listed, except I would add that if that's a "luxury" package it should have a Herpstat thermostat rather than a Jumpstart. I have a Herpstat 2 and it is amazing. It regulates both the UTH and RHP with amazing consistency.
This is my enclosure set up. Silk plants are more difficult to clean but it's worth it, in my opinion, especially for cluttering up a cage that big for a baby BP. They poop infrequently and if you don't let it dry for days it will wipe off the leaves just fine. If worse comes to worse and a leaf is really nasty you can just snip that leaf off. It's not a big deal.
Your humidity should be 60-80%. People say 50% all the time but that is a bare minimum and usually not adequate. If you're getting the t8 you'll be able to maintain a proper humidity no problem, mine sits at 70%-73% consistently. That being said, remember that humid doesn't mean wet. If you're getting expandable coconut husk (that's what I use) or reptichip or any kind of mulch make sure it is DRY before you put it in the enclosure. Before I got my snake I put the mulch in when it was almost dry and it spiked my humidity up to 90%. Stuff doesn't dry out in a pvc cage so let the substrate air dry or bake it beforehand.
Hot glue is amazing for fixing plants, clutter, lights, thermostat and thermometer probes, ect, in place. It comes off of pvc really nicely with a little effort so nothing is permanent.
I also noticed you don't have a temperature gun on there. There's one on Amazon that is great (and it's really fun to point around the whole house, haha) and can be used to spot check if any surface in the cage is too hot.
And pick up a cute little plate to use for feeding. To reduce the risk of substrate ingestion I give my girl a plate when it's time to eat and she is nice enough to swallow her rat right on it. And you'll need feeding tongs. Get one like this. They're super handy and easy to use, especially the locking ones once you have to feed bigger rats.
Since pvc cages open from the front, you might find that your snake is facing you when you want to take it out. It isn't wise to approach a snake head on so I actually bought the cutest little snake hook from our local reptile store. It's SO handy for moving her a bit so I can pick her up by her mid section. Just another little tool to consider investing in.
I cannot agree and recommend an IR thermometer enough. I believe I purchased this one from Etekcity on Amazon and it works like a charm.
> chill the entire fitting then heat the outside with a torch
Reverse that process. Heat the entire fitting first, then use a freeze spray to drop the temp of the cartridge.
Use a small torch flame on the fitting, mostly on the threaded area around the cartridge; conduction of heat will heat the rest of the fitting to a lesser degree. Have a fire extinguisher handy, of course. Buy or borrow a non-contact IR thermometer to monitor the temp. Walmart has a similar thermometer if you don't want to wait for delivery by Amazon.
Once it's around 250F, use a freeze spray to rapidly cool the cartridge, while applying a bit of torque with a wrench on the cartridge (you might need an assistant to do this safely).
Walmart has a freeze spray that's almost identical, but without the penetrating lubricants. I'd use the non-lubricant spray, as the lubricants hitting a 250F fitting might cause issues or a possible fire.
A branch is fine if he likes to use it. Once he's full grown you'll probably need to make him some sort of platform to lay on since they get up to two feet long. For the basking area, it's the actual surface temperature of whatever he's laying on that you want to check. We use an inexpensive infrared thermometer from Amazon. We have this one and it's only $15.99
The air temperature only needs to be in the 80's, and you want to put the basking area at one end of the tank. That way the basking area is the hottest and the opposite end is cooler, so he can move around and find the spot where he's happiest with the temperature. You want to put the UVB light in the middle so it shines on him no matter what part of the tank he's in.
One way to tell if you have the temperature in the basking area right is if he sits under the light with his mouth open. That means he's at the temperature he's happy with, and since he can't sweat he's using his mouth to cool down just enough to maintain his temperature. If you Google "bearded dragon gaping" there are lots of pictures of them doing it.
>You can't take a actual temp from a forehead and ever less if you pointing at them
yes, you can
It's going to be easier for me to write down what I'm working with than to pick apart whatcha got, so I'll make a little quick itemized list for ya :) you by no means have to get all of this stuff at once and it's definitely okay to just collect these things over time, but you're going to want these things for when he's an adult.
Monsoon misting system : This system isn't timed with a clock, but it does have frequency and duration timers. There are definitely fancier misters out there, but this one works just fine for me.
Fogger : this is probably the best fogger I've owned. I love the thick fog it produces and it's also got frequency and duration timers.
Temp gun : this thing is super handy for measuring temps. Thermometer/hygrometers around the enclosure are pretty essential, but I find having a temp gun helps really ensure my daytime, nighttime, ambient, and basking temps are all dialed in.
T5 Ballast + Proper Bulbs : I normally go to lightyourreptiles.com for all of my lighting needs, but they're unfortunately shut down for the moment, and I don't have any other sources for you. I have a similar fixture to this : T5 dual bulb HO reflective ballast with one 6500k daylight bulb and one 10% (better with a bigger cage, for you I recommend 5/6%) UVB bulb. The daylight bulb will be to provide some good lighting in the enclosure, uvb bulb, obviously, for uvb!
Arcadia Jungle Dawn 6500k LED bar : I have a lot of live plants in my enclosure, I recommend you incorporate live plants as you continually upgrade your setup as well! Chameleons like decently bright ambient light (you can overdo it, but it's good to have it a bit bright), and this one is just to brighten up my cage and keep my plants growing healthily.
Basking bulb dome fixture : chameleons like to be tall and like their enclosures to be raised off of the floor. They're used to being high up, being arboreal and all. I have my basking dome hanging from the ceiling and it's going well. Just be cautious with any basking setup you have - chameleons for some reason won't stop basking even if their bulb is way too hot/close...they'll bask themselves into and even despite severe burns. This is why it's so important to gauge temps properly.
Solarmeter 6.5 : this is the pricy one. Plenty, and I mean plenty of people get by just fine on their husbandry by studying and using the Ferguson Zones and don't end up buying this piece of equipment, so I wouldn't say it's absolutely, life or death style essential or necessary, but it's absolutely helpful and honestly a really great tool to have to make sure your chameleon is getting proper UVB. It also pays for itself over time - You could be throwing away perfectly good uvb bulbs using the "six month" rule, when using the Solarmeter, you'll get as much longevity out of the bulbs as you can and in turn won't spend quite as much money replacing them.
Fluker's bend-a-branch : these are my favorite branches. They're smooth and soft and come in three sizes. It's good to have varying sizes of climbing vines. The exoterra vines have a coating that is gritty and can rub off and get into the chameleon's eye.
So that's my two cents. Definitely get live plants, but don't forget to research which plants are chameleon safe so you don't poison your cute little friend! I generally just go into a plant store and look up "plant name, chameleon safe" for plants I'm interested in. Don't be afraid to come to the forums for any questions you have! There are such great communities to turn to for help. Chameleons are challenging, but awesome. Good for you, it sounds like you're doing the right things and are interested in your little dude having a super happy and healthy life! 🦎
Apparently Robocop got the Amazon deal of the day
this one is on sale on Amazon right now!
This is the laser thermometer I grabbed.
cheap as heck and affective.
You basically have to cook them on their basking spot. You definitely need a temp gun [link]
You sure it's accurate? Measure from the inside of the glass and make sure the heat pad is in good contact with the glass.
Something like this is what you want
A little infrared thermometer from Amazon works well.
That's the one I have.
So far this thing is great for $16. I paid 18 for the +-2.5 F one at Menards.
The Oven: It's one of those ovens that comes in 4 parts and you just assemble
About the wood fired Oven: All I know I learned from my tries, 1-2 Hours until the baking stone is around 300°C (572°F) to 350°C (662°F) is a nice spot. A thermometer is ideal to know when its ready so I would recommend that. I don't know what else to add to this, sorry.
I have pretty much the same Oven with gas as teh fuel for it and it takes 20-30 minutes to reach the ideal temperature, plus it doesn't leave the mess that the wood fired one makes. (ideal for when you just want to have 1 or 2 pizzas, but it can handle a whole night of baking just fne)
I don't have a comparison between 2 units, but there is variation across the surface on my 36". As long as I give it plenty of time to heat I'll see 20-30 degree variations, but honestly it's doesn't seem to have much impact on cooking.
I use one of these to check: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00837ZGRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I wrote out a template that you could probably benefit from.
you by no means have to get all of this stuff at once and it's definitely okay to just collect these things over time, but you're going to want these things for when he's an adult.
[Monsoon misting system](system]([link]) : This system isn't timed with a clock, but it does have frequency and duration timers. There are definitely fancier misters out there, but this one works just fine for me.
[Fogger](Fogger : this is probably the best fogger I've owned. I love the thick fog it produces and it's also got frequency and duration timers.
[Temp gun](gun]([link]) : this thing is super handy for measuring temps. [Thermometer/hygrometers](Thermometer/hygrometers around the enclosure are pretty essential, but I find having a temp gun helps really ensure my daytime, nighttime, ambient, and basking temps are all dialed in.
[T5 Ballast + Proper Bulbs](Bulbs]([link]) : I normally go to lightyourreptiles.com for all of my lighting needs, but they're unfortunately shut down for the moment, and I don't have any other sources for you. I have a similar fixture to this : T5 dual bulb HO reflective ballast with one 6500k daylight bulb and one 10% (better with a bigger cage, for you I recommend 5/6%) UVB bulb. The daylight bulb will be to provide some good lighting in the enclosure, uvb bulb, obviously, for uvb!
[Arcadia Jungle Dawn 6500k LED bar](bar]([link]) : I have a lot of live plants in my enclosure, I recommend you incorporate live plants as you continually upgrade your setup as well! Chameleons like decently bright ambient light (you can overdo it, but it's good to have it a bit bright), and this one is just to brighten up my cage and keep my plants growing healthily.
[Basking bulb dome fixture](fixture]([link]) : chameleons like to be tall and like their enclosures to be raised off of the floor. They're used to being high up, being arboreal and all. I have my basking dome hanging from the ceiling and it's going well. Just be cautious with any basking setup you have - chameleons for some reason won't stop basking even if their bulb is way too hot/close...they'll bask themselves into and even despite severe burns. This is why it's so important to gauge temps properly.
[Solarmeter 6.5](6.5]([link]) : this is the pricy one. Plenty, and I mean plenty of people get by just fine on their husbandry by studying and using the Ferguson Zones and don't end up buying this piece of equipment, so I wouldn't say it's absolutely, life or death style essential or necessary, but it's absolutely helpful and honestly a really great tool to have to make sure your chameleon is getting proper UVB. It also pays for itself over time - You could be throwing away perfectly good uvb bulbs using the "six month" rule, when using the Solarmeter, you'll get as much longevity out of the bulbs as you can and in turn won't spend quite as much money replacing them.
Climbing vines : these are my favorite climbing vines. Some other vines on the market have a gritty coating that can rub off into the chameleon's eye. These are soft and come in three sizes, and it's good to have varying sizes of branch.
I definitely recommend you get some more climbing surfaces in there.🤘
In 24 hours, the keg should be at room temperature. I also use an infrared thermometer gun to show temp instead of an actual thermometer inside the wort to help keep everything sanitary. My gun is similar to this one on Amazon
For enclosure: This is a highly recommend enclosure that will work their entire life
For thermostat: You need one of these hooked up to the heat source to keep it from overheating
For heating: one of these installed in the enclosure or one of these with a guard on it so the snake can't touch it
For heat/humidity gauge: something simple like this would work with a temp gun so you can more directly check things
For bedding: cypress mulch is very good
Set everything up before getting your snake, and make sure that you can achieve a consistent 90 degrees on one side of the enclosure, and 75-80 on the other. Have two to three hides that are small enough that the snake can curl up and still touch three sides of it. Make sure you can keep humidity around 70-80%. Make sure there is a water bowl. Finally, decorate: try for a quite cluttered setup, with lots of things for the snake to climb on and over.
This is the shopping list/setup that I personally consider ideal.
>I have a very good quality double boiler that I think makes the melting part a reliable method.
It's mostly just gentle on the chocolate. Less of a risk of scorching/burning the chocolate. You don't want to get the chocolate hotter than 120F or so. Only let steam touch the top part of the double boiler. Melt half of it in the double boiler then remove it form the heat to melt the rest then stir it until it reaches molding temp (85 - 87F).
> in a pyrex bowl, melt a few tablespoons unrefined palm shortening
Palm shortening is kind of a cocoa butter substitute while cocoa butter is much more ideal.
> and add water and decarbed flower to make canna-oil.
Water is not entirely necessary if you can keep a stable temp. Putting the flower and oil into a double boil would achieve the same. The water will wash some during infusion while vigorous boiling will agitate the flower which pulls more plant matter/impurities into the oil. Avoid excessive stirring agitation to minimize the weedy off taste. Wash after infusion after the flower is strained from the oil/solvent if you must wash it.
> [one could use butter or coconut oil but they are softer than palm shortening]
You can user about 30% coconut oil max. Something like 1 - 5% if you don't want to refrigerate it. It's not very shelf stable at higher concentrations and that's with using dark chocolate that's very hard and waxy. It also doesn't contain much cocoa butter by definition so it has room for the oil you add.
> have a towel on the counter - every time you lift the top part of double boiler, set it on the towel to mop off any condensation - you don’t want any drops if water falling into the molds.
True. Even a few drops can jack up a whole batch.
> pour into molds then put in fridge or freezer.
Stir it until it reaches 95F (monitor with laser thermometer) then add finely chopped and sifted even finer chocolate (seed chocolate) that provides seed crystals for a good temper (good crystal structure) then stir it until it reaches 85 - 87F (molding temp).
THEN you can mold and place it in the fridge. Do not put it into the freezer unless you are aiming for something specific that requires it. Simple fridges are used proffesionally. The old school method was basically just stirring it until it reached molding temp then stirring it as long as possible after that to form good crystals. You pretty much let it thicken up as much as possible without getting too think to mold. That's my basic understanding of tempering without modern stuff. They could have also just used cool cellars to help with that.
your sweet spot is 350-425. buy yourself a cheap IR thermometer . it won't be completely accurate but it should take a lot of the guesswork out.
I use ghee or canola.
My dad has one of those infrared thermometers and it works from 10 inches away, no more, no less. This one is 17 inches on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY. Those people aren't even getting within two feet of the thermometer so I doubt they are getting accurate results.
> termómetros pistola
Obviamente uno bueno y mas preciso debe ser mas caro, pero en Amazon tenes estos genericos a 16 dolares cada uno
I have one similar and it takes about 20-30 seconds to heat.
I'd recommend getting a temp gauge, no matter what banger
Whether that's a $106 terpometer discounted at the710extractionist.com (which measures surface temp) or a $15 IR gun off Amazon (which meaures air temp, isn't 100% accurate but gives you a good idea of your temp... it's close enough... and is much more budget friendly).
otherwise you're left to the hand trick, which is a literal guess until you get used to it
Whether that's a $106 terpometer discounted at the710extractionist.comor a %15 IR gun off Amazon (which is 100% accurate but gives you a good idea of your temp, and is much more budget friendly).
Thermometer or thermal camera
Something like this
I agree with this statement to an extent. I don't use the vpd chart as a do or don't guide by any means, but I would be concerned if I were seriously far off from what it recommends. As for checking the temp of your leaves...
... it's not hard at all to figure out the temperature of literally anything you can point at.
$15US. Not bad.
Get one of these to check if you have heat gain through your home's envelope:
How well is your house insulated? You can add a lot of insulation for under $10k and you can do a lot of basic ones yourself, such as ceiling insulation, air-sealing and hot-water pipe insulation if it doesn't have it already. If you're inclined, you can also do a bit of checking yourself on wall/ceiling insulation with something like this to see although I think most people in general have pretty good idea how well the house is insulated. A cheaper version is something like this that works well too. In general, improving insulation is the first thing that should be considered before adding capacity.
As for adding more heating capacity, if this happens infrequently and you don't mind the higher electric bill, you can also supplement heating with something like this that should be relatively cheap. Since you have ducting already also, I'd think putting in a gas furnace shouldn't be too expensive either.
11.19 Amazon, is cheap for hours of fun I do recommend upgrading for a buck and change and getting a sweet laser site model
Only way to know is to measure.
Get a cheap IR thermometer and observe the temperatures on the hot and cool sides to make sure they're in appropriate ranges.
The cop is holding a thermometer in his other hand. I think you have to give the cop the benefit of the doubt that he knew what he was doing.
I had the same reaction, but the cop has this thermometer in his other hand. Looks like he knew what he was doing.
TL:DR false software readings. Your board doesn't actually have VRM temp sensors.
Use an IR thermometer. I use this one. It's cheap and fairly accurate.
There's one on sale for prime day for $14. Don't know if that works outside the US though.
i prefer this one, it works amazing [link]
For that OC maybe it is worth it. you can get a infrared temp for less than $20
I use a 2L erlenmyer flask for 100g extractions. I use a 1L for the acid bath.
Some other tools you might consider:
I am unsure why his pan is not getting hot enough. Induction or not, low power or not, his stove top should be able to hit 400-500F easily which should be fine for searing.
As other mentioned drying the steak is #1 in importance.
I would also pick a higher temp oil like Avocado Oil or, if that seems too weird or hard to find then peanut oil. Avocado oil has the highest smoke point but peanut/sunflower/palm/refined corn oil is fine (although beware of peanut allergies if you have guests and use peanut oil).
After you dry the steak brush it with the oil. Not a lot. Just a light sheen (some fat from the steak will cook out adding more grease to the pan so not a lot of oil is needed).
When it comes to the pan definitely use cast iron. My guess is you are not letting it heat up enough. Cast iron has poor heat conductivity (compared to other metals). For searing this is actually a good feature. That said it takes the pan longer to heat up so leave it on the burner for a minimum of five minutes on full blast before cooking. Maybe longer...you'll need to experiment a bit (I have seen recommendations of up to 10 minutes but that seems a bit long but then I have not tested it so I cannot say for certain...if your stove top is low power it may well take 10 minutes).
Only once your pan is ripping hot should you add the steak. If you really want to be sure of your pan's temperature buy an infrared thermometer. They cost less than $20 if you really want to know what's going on. Just point it at the pan and it tells you the surface temp.
Again, wait till the pan heats up. It is easy to think with a burner going full tilt a metal pan heats up in moments. It doesn't. Give it some time. Especially with a cast iron pan. (Note: It can get too hot as well...a bit of practice helps figure out the sweet spot.)
I use this one.
Mhm! I use this one from Amazon. It's cheap and works great.
From what I understand you want to feed however much she can eat for 10 minutes. When I fed mine crickets I had a spare 10 gallon tank that I kept them in so I would just stick her in the cricket tank to eat to her hearts delight and then put her back once she stopped eating. Worked out way better than chasing down cricket that she didn't eat. You don't want to leave the bugs in overnight because they will nibble on your beardie while she is asleep.
I recently bought this temp gun to keep track of her basking area. I was pretty sure that the temp was right because she opens her mouth when she basks but the gun gives me more comfort to know the exact temp. [link]
I also bought a separate stand and light fixture to set up in my bedroom so she can run around in my room. There aren't any places she could get stuck in my room and after running around a bit she always comes back to the basking spot in my room.
You don't have to buy the reptile bulbs for a heat lamp, you just want the uvb which you will have with the zilla light. The heat light I use now I bought from Wal-Mart and it heats the tank better than the mercury vapor bulb I had before. They have them at Walmart and probably any feed stores because they are often used to keep chicks warm. [link]
Also you can get an inexpensive light fixture from either home depot or lowes. Clamp Lamp
Also if she is a girl you want to make sure you dust her food with calcium powder. The reptile specific ones are pretty expensive so I bought this at amazon a few years ago and I still have a ton of it.
If you want to keep your crickets hydrated instead of buying those cricket water crystals just buy Non-toxic ones My first bag I bought in 2013 and didnt need to buy a new bag until 2015 and that is because I am raising my own Dubias now.
Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Infrared Thermometer, Yellow/Black [link]
Make sure to use a basking spot that reaches at least 105ºF, you should stick the probe directly on the hottest spot of the basking area and it must be physically touching the surface as you want the surface temperature not the air temperature. I strongly recommend investing in an infrared thermometer gun, they can be pretty cheap, if you get one then move the probe underneath the basking spot to get a reading of the warm side. Tempguns pretty much can ONLY measure surface temperatures making them idea for use with reptiles. Link to tempgun: [link]
I wouldn't worry about the humidity too much honestly as long as you're running the AC in the summer.
See my notes down below for more info. The correct distance to the bulb depends entirely on the exact temperature reached and the strength of the UVB source. Weaker UVB need to be way closer, even the best tube bulb (reptisun 10.0 straight tube last I checked) needs to be 6" or less. As for materials, I prefer cork bark, but for this age you could probably use sandblasted grapevines until he gets too big. Stone works well too, but make sure it's not a dark color, neutral brown/grey or lighter.
Ceramic or porcelain tile with a somewhat rough texture is ideal for bearded dragons, especially young ones which are at risk of getting their little sharp claws stuck in cloth/felt, or impaction from eating sand/walnut.
If your temps are low you may be able to solve the issue easily by switching your UVB source to a mercury vapor UVB source, THIS is arguably the best non-commercial UVB source you can buy and quality UVB really is necessary for bearded dragons since they are desert reptiles and their skin blocks out a good amount of UVB. I like to supplement with a daylight LED bulb if the temperature is good with just the mercury vapor bulb, or a daylight incandescent bulb (on a dimmer possibly, do not use halogen on a dimmer) if I need to raise the temps more. One of the benefits of a strong UVB source is that you can drop the basking spot WAY down to about 10-12 inches away from the light.
Here is an album of my temp readings taken with an inexpensive IR gun on top of a ZooMed Medium UTH from the center of the pad @6" : 89F , 5" 89F , 4" 89F , 3" 88F , 2" 85F , 1" 83F
I just use this. Works pretty well.
First off this is a horrible assignment, which is not a reflection on you, but is incredibly irresponsible of your teacher. Mind if I ask if this is a high school project? or is this a college class? What happens to the animal when you're done with the project? Bearded dragons live 10-12 years in captivity, just so you know. Also, beardies do require a complicated initial set up, and it sounds like you just grabbed something like a reptile starter kit at Petco which isn't going to be a good habitat for your bearded dragon. I'll try to walk you through some basics here, but from what you're saying, pretty much everything has been incorrectly set up. Not your fault, the big pet stores don't have a good support and knowledge for reptiles. How long is your beardie, nose to tail tip? What are the dimensions of your aquarium?
First off, the bulbs. Beardies need two. One should provide heat and light for a basking spot. The surface temperature of this basking spot should be 100-105 degF. If its not warm enough you can either get a higher watt bulb, or raise her basking spot higher until its warm enough. You can check this temp with an infrared thermometer which you can pick up on amazon for <$20. The second bulb should be a ReptiSun 10.0 UVB fluorescent bulb
It will look like a long tube. Do not get the 5.0, or a coil bulb and do not get the mini-fluorescent one. Bearded dragons must have the UVB bulb in order to metabolize calcium. If you are missing this, they will leech calcium from their bones, the bones will become soft and if not treated, she will die. (search metabolic bone disease for more info) The heat lamp and UVB should be on 12-14 hours a day. I have mine on a timed outlet so they turn on and off automatically. Throw away that purple bulb, its useless.
Next, substrate. Get rid of the sand. They can ingest it and it will literally clog their digestive track. This is called impaction and it can also be fatal. (They can also get impacted if their basking spot isn't warm enough and can't digest their food.) Plain glass is better than sand. I would recommend tile since its easy to clean, but there's also reptile carpet and paper that are acceptable.
Diet: When they're young they don't eat many vegetables. Your staples should be greens that are very nutritious. Mustard greens, turnip greens and collard greens are easy to find and good for beardies. Lettuce is nutritionally useless, and those dry pellets can be used in a pinch, but are not ideal. You can also feed the greens to the crickets before feeding them to her. Put some leaves in with them about 20 mins before feeding to the beardie. Also, try a variety of other fruits and veggies. Bell peppers, squashes, apples, blueberries, and peaches are some favorites of my beardie. The rule of thumb is to slice fruits and veggies up so they are smaller than the gap between her eyes.
If your beardie is in fact a female, she will need a calcium supplement to make up for all the calcium she loses making eggs. Rep-Cal calcium powder with D3 is fine and you can buy a tub for <$10 on amazon. She will also need a dig box when it comes time to lay eggs. I've only had males, so I've never had experience setting these up, try checking the FAQ or posting for help on set-up
For the constipation, try giving her some warm baths. Beardies tend to poop in warm water. If that's still not working, get some slices of apple and coat with a little olive or vegetable oil. That can help loosen things up inside.
Sorry, this is a lot of information and I don't think any of this is your fault. Irresponsible pet ownership is a huge problem when it comes to reptiles. A lot of people don't realize how much care they need and don't do their research. We end up with dead beardies whose owners never realized they were doing something wrong, its very heartbreaking for us and the pet owner. Just watch some videos of beardie rescues on youtube. A lot of them have MBD and crooked limbs due to improper care and nutrition, its very sad to watch :(
Please don't hesitate to ask more questions, I'd love to help you out and make sure your little gal is taken care of.
The kit I bought from Sweet Maria's came with a meat thermometer. This was only measuring the air temperature, not the bean temperature, so I quickly bought an infrared thermometer so I could get a better idea of how hot the beans were getting. I'll usually record my temps every 30 seconds or so just so I can get an idea of how fast the beans are heating up.
There are a couple of cool videos like this one which really helped me out when I was starting.
Definitely check out /r/roasting with any questions you may have. There are some pros, hobbyists, amateurs, etc. there who are always willing to answer questions and help out.
It was this one. Actually loads of fun to play with, but you can't measure people's temperatures with it (didn't stop me, I'm a rule-breaker)
You can get an infrared thermometer for not too much.
You can get a wrist strap to use when working on electronics.
get one of these
The card that is significantly lower in temperature is the card that isn’t working. If you don’t want to do this the best way I know of is to just manually unplug the risers. For instance if you have a 6 card rig you can unplug one by one, you can also split it into groups like 3 and 3 and if you get a set of 2 you know it’s one of the 3. This doesn’t work if the problem goes away when you have less cards plugged in period. For instance this issue happens on every card after the 3 cards are plugged in etc
I, essentially, do this with a coolant temp sensor hooked up to my motherboard, no stand alone system. But anyways, I just set a desired max water temp and adjust the fan curve(s) to follow the temp, accordingly (Asus board so I can assign chassis fan headers to the temp probe).
All I need to do is use something like one of these (I own a different model) on one of the hottest days of the year at the rooms hottest temp to find my max ambient temperature around the PC. Set a tolerable fan speed, audibly, and see what my water temp is compared to ambient. With that info I can make my fan curve while never having to worry about ambient again (or having to use an Aquaero for a delta based adjustment). Also, this way if I ever want to adjust my fan curve at any other point in the year then I need only look at the current ambient in the room and do the math, if need be.
Buy a laser temp gun. They are neat and cheap and can be used around the house for temps and the laser is good to play with animals.
Get one of these, great for tanks and a million other uses like checking the temp of a hot cast iron pan or a BBQ grill grate.
I don't have that exact make and model but plenty of those laser temp guns to choose from. Great to have around the house and for checking tank temps if you need to.
You need one of these laser thermometer guns!