It looks like they've been re scraped but hard to say for sure. There is rust removing solution:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_020QN53ZBH7X92QXTZ9P
I've read people using vinegar also but haven't tried myself.
For after-range cleaning, Windex is not even needed, I used to use it a decade ago. But now just some warm water (just water or sometimes with some Dawn dish soap) works perfectly well to clean off the corrosive salts after a day of running surplus ammo.
After you've rinsed it off, be sure to dry it off thoroughly and then oil.
Since you already have corroded parts, Hoppes 9 works great - let the part soak in it. Use a nylon of brass brush to help scrape some of the corrosion off. Can also use 0000 steel wool to help, especially on the piston face.
If it's deep corrosion and are planning on repainting the kit before or after reassembly, I recommend EvapoRust. You can get a gallon of it and keep reusing it for a number of projects. Just place the part in a bin with some evaporust overnight, and boom, rust is gone. https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66
Just like the above post strip the paint then use this stuff. If you have a lot of stuff with rust it’s worth picking up. I refurbished a few tools with it Works wonders.
Evapo-Rust The Original Super... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Remove the cassette and put it in this:
Evapo-Rust The Original Super Safe Rust Remover, Water-Based, Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, 1 Gallon,Gray,ER012 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_213RVEQ7T67PKXHZP0DV
You’ll have to re-grease it but the rust will be gone.
You can do it yourself with a wire wheel and some rust neutralizer. Primer with self-etch and then paint with bedliner.
This stuff seemed to work okay without being too aggressive on the steel Evapo-Rust The Original Super Safe Rust Remover, Water-Based, Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, 1 Gallon. After that I used a brass wire wheel to clean it. You can work your way up to a polish if you want to go that crazy with it, although if it’s anything like these you’ll have some minor pitting in the steel that will never come o it fully. Since I use my saws, I just clean mine up enough to be presentable.
For rusted steel, I use Evapo-Rust. Afterwards, you can bring them back to a satin luster with 0000 steel wool. The 4-ought steel wool also works well on aluminum.
Man, that's awful. Sorry to hear about that.
FWIW, I recently refurbed a Landis 3-in-1 shoe machine and this stuff worked wonders for removing the rust. It's non-corrosive, and seemed to pull off almost all of the rust with very little effort.
get an inline fuel filter. most fuel lines are 5mm(3/16"?).
De-rusting a step-thru is a pain in the but. You can buy some toxic acid crap that will do it, but you have to be careful you don't get it on yourself. I let apple cider vinegar sit in it for a week, drain, strain and refill it every other day or so. Then I'll do a day or so of Evapo-rust
Seems to be on sale at the momend on Amazon with free shipping w/ prime. Harbor freight also carries it and with the 20% off coupon that is always available it can be had for about $23ish and it is reusable!
This stuff has been recommended to me for rust removal and is supposed to be quite gentle and paint safe. I have not used it yet (plan to use it on some planes I bought) but it has pretty stellar reviews.
Anyone else know if Evapo-Rust would work for this application?
I just embarked on this journey and I'm having a great time.
With the help of some members of this sub, I purchased 5 planes on eBay -- 2 Stanley #4's (both Type 13), 2 Stanley #5's (Type 9 Record and Type 17), and a Keen Kutter 4. I then asked a bunch of questions here and did a bunch of research on plane hunting and restoration. Special thanks to /u/abnormal_human and /u/Graphus for their comprehensive and helpful answers. Once they are all complete, I plan to use them all a bit and then pick two to keep and resell the rest.
Some sites that helped me a bunch were: http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php (Dating & Typing) http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm (Basic Info -- Numbering and such)
And here are some video's that carried me through the process in a playlist I made: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVQzwcksAUsVg8wbeLRrH2u (pay special attention to WOmadeOD's video. It's 2 hours and the entire process.)
And here's a set just for sharpening: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVbQcKXTppUb8vpS6Eal11h
Some important tools and materials are:
I decided not to refinish the wooden bits on the planes and instead just clean them up because I wanted to keep some of the age look to the planes. I re-painted the beds and sides of the frogs if the plane's original color was black and it was in poor condition.
I had planned to fill in all the albums with descriptions and make a post sometime this week when I am completely done but I might as well share what I have now.
The cleaning, derusting, and painting are done and I've completely finished all the planes. I've started on another set of 10 planes now. I'll group them all and make a post directly to the subreddit once they're all 100% complete.
For some tips on picking a used plane, /u/abnormal_human told me:
> Generally, the most desirable "types" for stanley bench planes are 11-15, but I wouldn't have an issue with a nice 9 or 10.
> Looking at the timeline[1] again, it's type 12-15 that I like. > Type 9 is when the better frog/body interface shows up, which makes it easier to adjust the frog. I'm not interested in anything earlier than this. > Type 12, you get a bigger brass adjustment wheel, which I like. > Type 16 was the beginning of the end--the ogee shaped frog + the kidney shaped hole in the lever cap appears at this point. This is when I tune out. > That's not to say that you have to be this picky. There are lots of usable planes outside of what I'm looking for. > There's just so many moderately priced planes out there that it's easy to pick+choose and get what you want if you pay attention to the details. > ... the dating chart works pretty well for the common bench planes (#3-8).
It is common for plane restorers to purchase a replacement blade, sharpen and use it, and keep the original in a safe place for collect-ability. For replacement blades as per /u/scewikea: > This is the answer I got when I asked before -- a few people around here swear that the Woodriver blades are really good.
Here is a quick run-down of the restoration steps I took. I plan to embellish and elaborate more on them when everything is 100% complete in a full post to this subreddit:
Now, I have a set of 9 more planes -- a Dunlap #5, another Stanley #4 Type 19, an unbranded #4, and 4 Stanley Block planes (110, 2 x 220, 9 1/2, and an unmarked baby one), and a Sears block plane -- that I'm in the middle of restoring. After they're done, I have a nice Stanley #7 Type 13 Sweet Heart waiting to begin the restore. It's a great facet of this hobby!
I'd be glad to share anything I've learned and answer any questions I can. If you wanna shoot me a PM, we can chat on gchat?
I have never used this but the idea came to me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0TLQ66/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Reading the reviews, people soak stuff to dissolve rust.
Amazon Tractor supply has it and wall mart if your lucky
link without tracker, courtesy of random internet meatsack bot:
This is the way . . . Evapo-Rust ER012 Super Safe Rust Remover – 128 oz., Non Toxic Rust Remover for Auto Parts, Hardware, Antiques | Rust Removers and Chemicals
That’ll make a fun restoration project. I’ve found evaporust to be a very effective rust remover. Birch wood Casey sells a kit for bluing. I would recommend an assortment of steel wool and some extra swabs. Should be everything you need to get the steel looking beautiful.
This stuff really does work well. Soak for a couple of days then a brillo pad.
Thank me later. I've restored tons and tools and old guns with this stuff. Also very friendly and non-toxic
1 - Remove the seat track, soak it in "Evapo-rust", rinse, dry, repaint, relube, and reinstall. https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=sr_1_2?crid=NH7U0ZPT7M05&dchild=1&keywords=evapo-rust+rust+remover&qid=1615524183&sprefix=evapo-rust%2Caps%2C1573&sr=8-2
2 - If you just want to plug off the hole, measure the diameter of the opening and get a push-in plug made for that size. Hardware store calls them "Furniture hole plugs". https://www.amazon.com/ONLYKXY-Diameter-Plastic-Furniture-Protective/dp/B07MMM21XL/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=1+inch+hole+plug&qid=1615524243&sr=8-4
Deal link: Amazon
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Deal link: Amazon
^^Note: ^^Get ^^instantly ^^notified ^^on ^^Telegram ^^when ^^there ^^is ^^a ^^new ^^deal ^^in ^^"Home ^^Improvement ^^and ^^Decor" ^^category. ^^Join ^^our ^(Telegram channel)
You’re welcome
Evapo-Rust The Original Super Safe Rust Remover, Water-Based, Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KSfwFb2Z7QCSR
Get some rust remover and/or inhibitor on it. Something like this
I’ve used both a rust marketed product and white vinegar with bbs. The vinegar is cheaper but might take a bit longer.
Here are some of my Go-To's for restoring old tools and metal parts:
Rust removal: EvapO-Rust *Awesome because when you're finished with it you can dump it into the garden and your plants will love you.
Sanding/Polishing up metal: Dico Nyalox Nylon Brushes *These last significantly longer than their wire counterparts and don't throw metal bristles into your skin. You can easily work up from grey to blue, but I find that often I can just start with the orange brush and it'll move enough metal. The blue gets it extremely shiny.
Polishing metal: 3M Scotchbrite Light Deburring Wheel *For final finishing/polishing, you want the 'Light Deburring' wheel. You'll then just need to buy a drill arbor that matches the hole and go to work. That's easier than buying a grinder and using that. The finish that wheel leaves on metal parts is insane.
yep, the GPR cases http://www.gatorcases.com/support/gpr-drum-case-statement.aspx
I had my home-made kit stored in them for 2 years (keller shells and generic hardware). They weren't phenomenal drums, as I wasn't a drum-building expert at the time (I'm still not), but it broke my heart to find my drums after 2 years in these things. There was also one of the Pearl Masters Symphonic Snares in one of the cases.
Luckily, most all the hardware was powder coated, which saved most of it.
Gator settled with me for the damages. If you settle with them, estimate the value high, because they will try to 'depreciate' the value of the item(s). Pissed me off, because the whole point of the cases was to keep them from depreciating. Also, the cost to replace hardware should have been the number to aim for, not the potential value of the hardware if it had never been rust-fucked by Gator's bullshit Indonesian glue.
Then I used Evapo-Rust to repair some of the hardware as best as I could. After Evapo-Rust I finished with some metal polish to prevent it from quickly rusting again.
All in all, everything works. The hardware isn't nearly as pretty as it used to be, especially the chrome hardware from the Pearl snare, but the rust is all gone, and everything is functional. My hardware wasn't quite as bad as the pic you posted, but the Evapo-Rust might still salvage that.