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with an average of
I ended up picking up the open box S15s and the SMSL SA50 during the ebay sale. Also, picked up the DAC from Amazon. Just waiting on them to arrive now.
How would I go about hooking up the DAC and the amplifier to the desktop? Know how to do with with just the amplifier, but not sure what additional cables I'll need for the DAC.
Sony is fine to start with at 180. The Onkyo is better at 280. Denon PMA-600 is good at 350 maybe 400. Pass on the AXR35 and get the AXR85 if it is only 50 more.
All of these 2 channel stereo receivers or integrated amps can also connect to a TV for 2 speaker stereo. If the TV has analog outputs then they all have analog inputs. If the TV only has digital optical output and the receiver or amp does not have a digital optional input then you can add a Fiio D3 DAC between them.
For AV receivers I recommend Denon or Yamaha over Sony if you can and also skip the most entry level Denon if you can. The entry level Yamaha is a bit better than the most entry level Denon.
You are getting the Rega 1? UK built Rega is a great value in the UK. Austrian Czech built Pro-ject may be a bit better value in the EU.
The 50% may be a decent rule of thumb. Or 40/25/35 for the 3 components. Or in an entry level setup it may come down to what the lowest cost but good to start with option is. Rega Planar 1 or Pro-ject Debut III then the Sony STR-DH190 receiver then that great deal on the Dali speakers.
If you will not be adding more than 2 speakers and will be getting a stereo receiver or integrated amp that only has analog inputs and your TV only has digital outputs than you can connect an optical digital to analog converter between them. [link]
Well. You need a dac for powered speakers if the powered speakers don't have a dac.
True you don't need a dac for powered speakers if they already have one. But if yours don't you need a dac.
The z490 tomahawk has an optical out so you could even get a dac like the fiio d3.
I have a fiio d3 to go from my desktop via toslink to my amp. Works pretty well for the price and I think it’s available in the UK. Quality wise, it’s limited to 16bit/44.1khz but I don’t know if Xbox/tv is really going to do better than that.
It has a line out (not headphone) so you’d need some sort of volume control or headphone amp.
Ah allora vai di quello che hai linkato tu, così potrai anche riciclarlo per altre cose eventualmente. Dovrai impostare manualmente il volume dei due canali che arrivano dalla console ma in effetti è un non problema.
Il problema, mi viene in mente ora, potrebbe essere il collegamento con la console, che molto probabilmente ha un uscita audio digitale. In quel caso ti serve un DAC tipo questo.
Uh well, if you want to get it to sound better at minimum I would upgrade the speakers from the soundbar, and if you pick anything I linked above you need an amplfiier to drive it. Those would all be a huge upgrade, with or without a subwoofer, so you could just start with the speakers and amp.
I am just realizing the Loxjie amp doesn't have an analog input so that one is out. So you could get the Yamaha amp, any of those speakers, and an optical DAC for the TV and have a really nice setup. Up to you if you have space/want floorstanders, bookshelves, whatever. Same with the subwoofer
One thing you could try is to use the optical output of your normal motherboard's soundcard then use a DAC to go to your speakers (like this one) .
Pair it with some decent speakers and you take the DAC out of the computer, all in all a winning combination. And it's nowhere near $100.
The device you're looking for does exist, and it's called a Digital to Analog Converter (DAC). It will have an optical digital (also called TOSLINK) input and either a 3.5mm TRS jack (same as what you're calling "aux") and/or RCA connects as the output. And it will also have some kind of power supply (maybe USB) to run the circuitry required.
They're pretty cheap and available all kinds of places. The FiiO D3 is a popular model and goes for $19 on Amazon.
Two things to be aware of if you decide to go this route:
For the 100 extra he could get a DAC. If you never had one and don‘t want to spend a ton just for trying get a FiiO Taishan if you are ok with spending more try a different one.
Do the speakers work ok from other audio sources such as your phone?
Do you have the correct input selected on the speakers?
Which model TV? RCA or 3.5mm output? Do you have the TV and Edifier volume both turned up.
For TV use the R1280*DB* add an optical input besides Bluetooth. Or add a FiiO D3 between the TV and speakers via optical output from the TV.
Yep, Sony, Yamaha and Pioneer under $200 don't have optical input.
The Pioneer has the sub out jack, so add a FiiO D3 $35 or get a USB one if needed.
Aight now we can accurately tell you what you need. Since the receiver has no optical input, yes a DAC is required from the hardware you have. Hook your DVD player to the TV. Based on the TV model, you have an optical out and a 3.5mm headphone out. You could do a 3.5mm to RCA and hook to your receiver. Or you do a DAC from the optical out then to the receiver. You don't need anything fancy.
This will do you just fine.
FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC [link]
If it were my system I would probably grab both a cheap DAC and a CCA. Music should sound better after that.
> A really good deal
A really good deal on something that isn't very good still isn't a good deal. Klipsch makes theater subs. They get loud and low, but don't really sound that great.
Here's a DAC
That would be the easiest way to output sound if the 3.5mm is truly broken now. Get a cheap DAC that has a 3.5mm out.
$125 is a good price for the R-15M.
The FiiO D3 (D03K) DAC? Much cheaper and smaller than an AV receiver that has an optical input built in.
Yes, all that is much better than Logitech.
The FiiO D3 DAC has a "headphone" jack. It's the 3.5mm (1/8") "line out" small black hole next to the L and R white and red RCA jacks. The headphone base station has both 3.5mm (1/8") and RCA inputs. You can use either either connection on both the DAC and the base station, it doesn't matter which one, they both work the same.
Looking at the Sennheiser manual, the headphones do have a volume control and should boost the line out signal.
How do you propose using the mini amp for headphones? How would you even connect it?
Great! If you don't already have the D1 DAC, get a FiiO D3 for $20.
I don't know if the TV will power the USB, does the TV manual say anything about USB power? Plug it in and see if it powers up, if not, use a USB cable with a USB power adapter plug.
Ah makes sense. Thinking I'll pick up the FiiO D3 unless you got a better idea.
I know it's bad but I needed a new TV old one was hand-me-down lcd from 2007. And the boom box was $300 new and probably sounds better than most soundbars thanks to having 2x 5.25" subs, 3" mids, and 1" tweeters. Still it's only a interim solution until I get a better one.
Edit: also thanks for the response
Any of those will work. Yeah, there's a couple extra ms added by going through the USB controller, but nothing you can notice.
I use a $20 FiiO DAC:
Note that this model is not a USB DAC. It connects to the optical output on my PC.
Tbh I am fairly limited in my knowledge of DACs. I imagine there IS differences in quality, from DAC to sac, but I would say with a decent one you won't hear a quality loss in the conversion itzsld. but I couldn't really tell you who makes a great one from experience. After a brief googling, This one seems great on a strict budget and it's made by a company I have experience with, who actually makes audio products :) best luck!
> a separate DAC, as some people seem to think that using separate components is generally better for quality.
Whether or not there is a DAC built in does not matter. At some point in time it was difficult to engineer a DAC, same with cell phones being luxury items, 56kbps modems, lightbulbs, and plumbing. If there is no DAC you can add something like this. Prioritizing a Dac is way off base though.
> I just went for bookshelf speakers as I have seen advice that the tower speakers might be too loud for an apartment
Nah it's fine, you have a volume knob. The reason I mentioned towers is for deeper bass extension without it being anything like a subwoofer. If you're sticking to 2-channel and no subwoofer you can get away with a simple stereo receiver or integrated amplifier.
[link] Cheap work around.
Edit: Lol? excuse my cheap dac recommendation. Coworker ran a variant of one of these with a little bear was pretty decent for a cheap set up :) Also if you don't have RCA's out from your computer (which you won't unless you have a soundcard with them) this is a cheap solution. cheers
An external DAC?
Hope this is somehow related or helpful, but I've been using this DAC to connect Klipsch speakers to a TV and it works fantastically ...
If all you want is optical in to feed your amp, something like a FiiO D3 D03K is $20 would do what you need. I use it on my desktop PC to drive my mixer, but primarily to get rid of the ground noise of my PC.
Yeah, I just googled it and it looks pretty legit. You might check if it has an option to use a front-panel jack as well. You might get better luck using the integrated audio rather than the dedicated audio (probably not, but it can't hurt if it'll save you money, right?)
I could try to explain what I'm thinking the issue is, but it's pretty deep into electronics theory. If you know some stuff about electrons, I'll try to ELI5 if you'd like.
One cool thing you've got is the capability to do SPDIF or TOSLINK out of your motherboard. These are digital communication methods for audio. In order to use it, you'll need something like a (Fiio Tashan)[[link]] box. If you don't want to go that route, you can try something like a SMKN X5. They're not great for driving headphones, but you're using them with powered speakers, and they're super-cheap.
This sub is geared toward audio recording, so if you're planning to use a professional microphone, I'd go for a Focusrite Scarlett. The small two-channel ones are about $100, but they're powerful little boxes. I've recorded a ton of VO work, a couple of guitar pieces, and some misc stuff, and it hasn't let me down yet.
Are the receiver inputs analog or digital? You'll need a converter either way. I use this one from Fiio, it's inexpensive ($20) and works great. Just go with any optical cable to that, then that to stereo analog inputs on your receiver.
If your receiver has RCA digital input you can get a different converter for that. I can't recommend any offhand. I recommend, if you're already buying a converter, that you stick to the one above...because with a digital input your receiver may have more processing that you have to fight and configure, because it'll add more lag. That optical to analog adapter above is pretty bulletproof.
It is a DAC with a nice fit and finish and has a good quality D->A chip. Most things cheaper won't sound great and a lot don't have optical in. The cheapest option would be [link] , I've not used it but it is well reviewed.
if you have a optical output on your mobo and don't want to shill out the money for the optical input on the Modi 2 Uber, you can try a cheaper optical converter first to get rid of the USB noise.
Otherwise, go full retard on the UBER stack :)
Assuming your input isn't crap it does pretty well. When you have money to upgrade the first thing I suggest is a cheap DAC. Even a $20 model will offer a better SNR than motherboard audio and beats a lot of cheap sound cards.
After that you get into the world of higher end audio. Things like lossy vs loseless and what power supply you are running the amplifier from start to matter.
I bought the FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter . It works great. I wasn't getting audio though the Samsung apps and tuner, I had to change the audio setting to get them to work
I don't have control over my audio with my remote right now because my lepai receiver is analog and the TV won't control it that way. Will be going to a full digital 5.1 in the near ish future. For right now, just using my amp manually.
If your PC has an optical output you could get a FiiO D3 optical DAC. This way you could ensure that you get the best possible output from your machine (given that it has an optical output).
Otherwise I would suggest you take a look at FiiO's desktop DAC/Amp combo unit.
IF you want to spend a lot more that $300, take a look at the Audio GD NFB 11 or the Schiit Jotunheim.
If you need coaxial I would get this
and feed it into the SMSL amp I mentioned previously. Or you could search for other SMSL dac/amps which have coaxial and more power output :) their catalog is quite big
This one is fairly cheap.
Side note: I don't speak a word of German, so I'm surprised how similar it is to english.
Thank you for your reply!
I guess I am asking for a lot from one device, I can buy an separate dac if that makes things easier, I've heard good things about the FiioD03k. The only downside to the FiioD03k is that I would have to adapt my turntable's rca outputs into coaxial (is that possible? I've never really dealt with coaxial before).
I don't need optical output, I just wanted to mention that I had it available because I thought it might open up more possibilities.
> they do all feature rca analog inputs however, but you would then be using your pc dac as opposed to the dac in this unit
Using analog inputs means you're not using the unit's built-in dac? I'm just trying to make sure I'm understanding correctly.
Thank you again!
Doesn't your telly have RCA line-out? The TRS tends to be headphone out, in which case it's already amplified by the headphone amplifier in your telly - which may already be noisy, and this'll be further compounded by your headphone amp. You could try I guess, if you find this to be a problem, you could get a d/a converter like this one.
So I've decided to get the combo+ Magni 2, do I need anything else to set it up? Would you recommend a cheap DAC like this one per say, or just see how magni fairs?
That clears it up, thanks.
I've been looking around and I can't find an amp with something like you describe without drastically increasing the price, would something like this do the trick?
The only problem I'm seeing is that it has digital out and optical/coaxial in, wouldn't it need to be the opposite seeing as it's going from computer (digital) -> DAC -> amplifier (optical/coaxial). Does this matter?
Won't this mean you'll need to have your telly on to listen to music as well? Why not invest in an airport express or a chromecast audio for when you're listening to music? In any case, what you're looking for is something like this. Whilst watching movies, your TV or your chromecast might have to be set to output a stereo signal, this device will not decode surround.
Yes, there are lots of ways. Unfortunately, it's the same recommendation as everyone else. The cheapest way for PC is to get an external DAC. There are many options. This is the cheapest one I know of though. You might try not keeping your laptop's power plugged in while you listen. As for the phone you could also do the same with a DAC but you would want to go portable and those usually start around $100.
The video sounds dead silent to me.
I would first make sure that it's not your PC that is introducing the noise. Try plugging your phone into the line-in and see if there is noise. If not, it's coming from your monitor. Is your monitor just a small HDMI TV with consoles connected?
If the noise is from the TV headphone out then you'll need to use another output. Does it have optical out? Does your console have optical out? If either is yes, try a $20 Fiio D3 which will convert the optical to RCA which you can plug into the line-in.
Before buying anything else though, try plugging your TV and PC into adjacent power plugs on the same strip and see if it helps.
Sound cards are not worth it. If you are doing music production you should invest in a DAC and/or headphone amplifier.
The FiiO D03K is only $22 and is good quality but because it is a DAC only you might find the output lacking for high impedance headphones.
The FiiO E10K is a combined DAC and amp but costs $85. Worthwhile but out of your budget.
Connect your PS4's optical out into that thing, and then the line out into your PC speakers.
Essentially what you're doing now is using your monitor's built in DAC. The monitor manufacturer wouldn't put too much effort into the quality of their sound, because most of the time people would be using the monitor's built in tinny speakers or using a computer's line-out directly.
You need a DAC to go from optical digital audio to analogue minijack audio. This fiio one is probably the best cheap one, but they can be had for less if you don't care about quality.
FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC [link]
If your Macbook has either S/PDIF (optical) out or Coaxial-out you can use this one for 33 EUR (which I think is MAC compatible)
It's a very good DAC for the price. I've used it before
One of the best improvements you can make in terms of sound quality is buying a decent DAC instead of using the shitty built in DAC found in almost all computers. The DAC already inside most computers are just there so you can get sound. That's it.
If you have Apple devices and can stream from them, the cheapest option would be Airplay to an old Airport Express with a line running out to the monitors from the line out jack in the Airport Express.
If you want to spend just a tick more, you could get an Apple TV, run it into a DAC from the toslink optical out on the Apple TV and into your monitors from the DAC. You can get a Fiio DAC that would work for this for under $30, and the Apple TV is only around $60 now. I have this setup and I am LOVING it... I don't have a modern receiver with Airplay (but it's a Marantz 2270, so I'm not going to complain), so it's great having high quality audio wirelessly streamed to my setup. Definitely worth checking out if you have Apple devices, which a lot of people do.
I would stay away from most bluetooth options, as there are more cons than pros IMO. The stream won't be as high quality, and you have less range, whereas if you went with a wifi option you could go anywhere your wifi coverage is.
One question though... The Rokits are near field monitors, so in order to listen to them optimally, you have to be close to them when listening. If you're listening to them up close, why not just go with a wired option? An RCA cable off Amazon is much cheaper than an entire wireless audio setup. Just wondering.
It sounds like your source is one (a PC), so what you really need are a couple Y splitters, but you could get away with something like this: [link] if you have optical from your computer.
You can use this to connect to the back of your tv or PS4. I use it to connect a pair of speakers and it works pretty good.
It seems like the reason you plug it into their box instead of directly into the controller is for extra volume controls and stuff.
You can use this to convert from the optical audio port on the back of the PS4. I use it to connect my tv to some pc speakers and it works pretty good.
It does require a power outlet or usb port. If your tv happens to have a usb port, then I'd suggest using that.
I will leave a note here for those wondering what a DAC/Amp is and when they are needed.
A DAC is simply a digital to analog converter. A good DAC will minimize the amount of noise that is introduced into the system, noise being hissing, buzzing, ringing, etc. In more technical terms this would be errors made by the DAC when converting a stream of bits coming from your computer to an analog signal.
It doesn't cost much to produce an accurate DAC. Most on-board DACs are good enough that you won't notice any noise. If you do notice noise it's likely because of interference from other components on the motherboard. In that case a cheap external DAC, such as the Fiio D03k, should clean up the signal.
TL;DR: Don't notice any noise, don't buy an external DAC
An amplifier does what the name implies, it amplifies the analog signal going to the headphones. Some headphones are easier to power than others. The SHP9500s are just fine running off your motherboard, which probably has a relatively weak amp, but something like the HifiMan HE-6 requires a lot of power. My recommendation would be to try out the headphones without an amplifier first, then purchase an amp if you aren't reaching the listening volume you would like.
Let's say you need an amplifier, which one do you get? First you should know that there are two major types of amps: solid state and tube. Solid state amplifiers aim to provide clean power to the headphones. Tube amplifiers intentionally introduce distortion to the sound to make it sound more natural. This tends to cut down on harsh treble.
You want to make sure the amp you purchase has enough power for your headphones and will provide clean sound. A great entry level amplifier would be the FX Audio DAC X6 which also happens to have a built in DAC. If you require more power than that the Schiit Magni 3 is exceptional. Anything beyond that, I would recommend heading over to /r/headphones.
TL;DR: Happy with your listening volume? Don't buy a separate amplifier.
Alright, the problem here is your TV has no variable or line level RCA outputs. I'm going to offer a couple of options:
An optical DAC with a remote line level controller and powered monitors. DAC, Remote volume control, Really good sounding powered monitors. Wait til they go down to about $240 for the pair or buy them on massdrop now, you have 9 hours to decide. Totals to $300
Same setup as above, but will switch out the JBLs for something cheaper and totals to about $200. Wait til the Micca PB42X are in stock at amazon. They run $120. If you can swing for the JBLs, do it though.
The best option in my opinion, would be to get a cheap 5.1 receiver with an optical input. You can pair this with any pair of passive speaker you want, you can purchase a used receiver from craigs or ebay, you can add a center channel at a later date, and more importantly, you can add a subwoofer when your budget allows and have proper bass management with high and low pass filters and eq.
$20 at Amazon for one of these [link] - fixes problems with hum/buzzing you may get from using the analog 3.5mm output.
Yep, inexpensive DAC [link]
I cant tell if a Toslink DAC is better than a Scart DAC.
I can recommend this DAC. I use it myself and I like it.
How cheap is cheap? And how much room do you have?
You can get an Optical/Coaxial DAC (digital to analog converter) for about $25 on Amazon -
Then we need to decide where to go from there. Do you want a Remote Control with the speakers. Keeping in mind that the TV Remote Volume Control will not control the Digital Audio Outs (coaxial). That means you either control the volume manually by turning a knob, or you get either Active Speakers or Amp/Speaker combination that has a Remote Volume Control.
The Audioengine A5+ are good 5" speakers with built-in Amp, and a Remote control, but the price is a considerable $400/pr -
For Manual control at a lower price, the Mackie CR5BT are about $220 per pair, they also have Bluetooth Cability so you can send sound to the speakers by Bluetooth, for example, from a Smart Phone or Smart Tablet/Pad. But no remote control.
The easiest way to get a Remote Volume Control is to buy a Amp/Receiver, but that combined with speakers is going to be a bit more money. If you are interested in saving some money, here is a B-Stock Discounter.
Yamaha RS202, AM/FM, 100w/ch, Bluetooth - $110 -
Cambridge Audio SX50 (5") - $150/pr-
Depending on you actual budget, there are other options.
It looks like you are connecting, or trying to connect, the INPUT of the TV to the INPUT of the speakers.
If you are on a budget, a simple DAC will allow you to connect the Optical Audio Out of the TV to the DAC (digital to analog converter) and from there via RCA-RCA to the Speakers.
You can spend anywhere from $20 to $2000 on a DAC. Though if you are on a budget, this DAC will do fine -- $20 ...24b/192k -
Between the TV and the DAC you will need an Optical cable, you can find thousands of these on Amazon, or you can buy them at Walmart, Best Buy, Menards, Home Depot, and many other places. Just make sure you get one long enough to reach from the TV OUT to the DAC.
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FiiO-D03K to connect the optical output to your receiver.
Canuckaudiomart.com for used options.
If the receiver or integrated amp does not have a phono input then add an external phono stage preamp and if it does not have an optical input then add a Fiio DAC or get a USB input DAC instead of optical.
New, Sony-STRDH190 with a built in phono stage preamp with adjustable gain plus the Fiio DAC or USB input DAC.
Audio Guides, Speaker Wire, Accessories and Vinyl Care
..is there anything specific you need your DAC to do?
Because else the bar for "good enough" really isn't particularly high. You can just buy something like this:
There really is no point buying a DAC for anything but features you need as long as it passes the bar for "good enough". And $9 dongles pass that bar just fine.
I personally use this DAC:
Paired with BOSE 2.0 Powered PC Speakers. I think it sounds great!
If the TV has optical out, I'd use that method with an inexpensive DAC. You won't be able to use your TV remote to adjust volume, you'll have to use the receiver's, but it should sound better. I use an older apple tv using this method and it sounds really good.
Se le cuffie non hanno l'ingresso digitale (dubito) sì -> Fiio D3
the 3.5 to RCA should be fine.
If you want, go with theFiiO D3. $19, I am sure it works great
All you need is one of these....
If you only have stereo sound, then you should go into your computer's sound setting and choose stereo (mixdown) only. Do not send 5.1 audio out via HDMI if you only have stereo playback capability.
Then just connect the left and right audio out from your TV. If your TV does not have this, then you need one of these:
This will convert the Optical out from your TV to analog for your amp. Then just connect the audio to any input on your amp. Then connect speakers to your amp.
For true 5.1 audio you will need a completely different setup with a HDMI capable receiver to route the HDMI thru.
Your cheap 5.1 computer speakers will not connect to your amp. These need a sound card. Your computer, if it is a PC tower, may already have this, look on the back. Otherwise, no luck there.
These work really well for connecting analog amps to optical output. Sound quality is outstanding.
If you have optical out get one of these. The sound is amazing. You don't need to spend more.
Most reasonably modern TVs have Digital Audio Out, either Optical or Coaxial. To make this work with any analog amp, you simply need a Digital to Analog Converter (DAC), though you can spend considerably money on a DAC, you can also get a 24b/192k Hi-Res DAC for as low as $20 on Amazon -
Though there are many to choose from, the FIIO D3K is probably as good as any -
It's old Dolby Pro Logic
>Dolby Surround/Pro Logic is based on matrix technology. When a Dolby Surround soundtrack is created, four channels of sound are matrix-encoded into an ordinary stereo (two channel) sound track. The centre channel is encoded by placing it equally in the left and right channels; the rear channel is encoded using phase shift techniques, typically an out of phase stereo mixdown.
It may not be worth adding a center speaker since it just combines the the left and right channel.
No modern HDMI or optical digital inputs.
Or consider using the Pioneer in a stereo setup without the TV and get a modern AV receiver setup for around $300 which will have 4K HDMI inputs so you can connect the Xbox and Apple TV to the it for the latest surround sound formats and run a single HDMI cable up to the TV.
Speaker Wire: Pure Copper Oxygen Free 16 Gauge Speaker Wire 50 ft, and cut to size with self adjusting wire strippers or 4 Ways to Strip Wire - wikiHow, then optionally add banana plugs. Or already with banana plugs, Micca 6 or 12ft.
Speaker Stands: Dayton Audio SSMB24, Monoprice Glass or very sturdy Monolith by Monoprice. Also Audio Advisor where most are also available at Amazon. Size to get speaker center or tweeter at ear height from your seated listening position.
Subwoofer on sale: 12" Infinity Reference R12 $199 ~~$499.95~~.
Get an Apple tv to play music from. Run an Hdmi cord from the ATV to your TV and use the optical out from your TV connected to this cheap DAC and be amazed at the quality of the sound.
Sign up for an Apple Music account and you can preview music before purchasing the record.
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I got a nice little DAC off Amazon a year ago for $25 and it’s fantastic.
Might be worth picking up a cheap optical DAC?
Hey man, so I ended up getting the Fii0 Taishan (converter) to hook up to my Fulla and into my PS4 via optical. Long story short, I can't seem to get it to work, even if I have it hooked up to my computer.
The Fii0 came with a usb power cord, so I have that plugged into either my PS4 or computer and it gets power just fine.
And in the last day I have tried two aux cables (one fairly old, the other brand new) connected through the "line out" of the Fii0 and into the back of the Fulla [then into my headphones].li
The problem seems to lie in the aux. Because when I have it in the back of the Fulla and simply connected to my computer, it doesn't produce any sound at all.
Here are the products I bought in question:
- Taishan converter
- a simple aux cable (as well as an optical for the PS4)
- and the Fulla manual that shows what each input/output does
I must be blind to a glaring issue, because even if I have the Fulla amp connected to my computer via a aux cable instead of the usb that comes with it, it doesn't work. Aside from that, it wuold be awesome if I found a simple fix too :p
I'd be willing to part with the Fulla if there was an amp that worked well with my new Taishan dac ( had enough power for the hd58x, was budget friendly etc). So if you had any recommendations there that would help a lot
BIG EDIT: Didn't realize that the Fulla needed to be plugged in with a usb as well :facepalm It works now :0
It only has a coaxial and optical input but any modern motherboard should have an optical audio output.
For stereo music?
Or is it for a TV? If you need an optical input for it, add a FiiO D3 $19.
You can always consider getting a DAC similar to this if you find a TV you like that doesn't have a 3.5mm jack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A1UG27DD7KR2HI&psc=1
No analog output from your TV? Then get a FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC [link]
For better streaming over WiFi as well as Bluetooth and Apple Airplay, [link]
i'd go with FiiO, they basically brought DACs to consumer markets.
Plus, it's cheaper :)
Provides 192khz conversion. For reference, a music CD is 44khz... so, 4x the "resolution" as an audio CD.
Digital in (with digital out too) mixers are definitely a thing, but they tend to be pricey and are usually USB, not optical (for pro music usually, not really a 'hifi' thing). If budget's an issue, you're gonna need to mix the audio in analogue regardless.
Lowest cost would probably be a cheap Numark/SubZero mini mixer and two Fiio Taishan d03k's. Cables will be a mess though, if you can't hide it.
You might be better off just buying another soundbar if that's what you're happy with, will cost roughly the same as the mixer and two optical>rca DACs.
Most up to date parts list:
Fiio D03K is what I use.
You could get a cheap optical DAC like the FiiO D3.
You could also use a DAC for your speakers.
> How is the DAC in the CCA?
Okay, but not great. However, it has optical output, so you can skip the dac. Get one like this and an optical cable like this one and you can use an external dac, and have high quality streaming without losing quality from the internal dac.
If you never want surround sound and will never add more than 2 speakers then try the HK. Which model TV? $20 Optical to analog RCA DAC if you need it for the HK.
For surround sound and HDMI:
Recommendations from AverageJoeAudiophile and r/HTBuyingGuide.
Internet Manufacturer Direct can be a good bang for the buck with 30 day in home trials.
HSU speaker and sub packages:
Ascend speaker packages:
Bookshelf speakers on sale: Klipsch RP-160M $330. Infinity Reference R162 $175.
Low budget 12" Dayton SUB-1200 $150, 12" Bic F12 $220, and try a coupon code.
On sale 10": Def Tech ProSub 1000 $300 or 10" MartinLogan Dynamo™ 500 $300.
Better subwoofers to add later:
Speaker wire: Pure Copper Oxygen Free 16 Guage Speaker Wire 50 ft. and self adjusting wire strippers. Also DFWCableConnection or Blue Jeans Cable.
Speaker Stands: Monolith by Monoprice. Audio Advisor, most also available at Amazon.
Home Theater Guides: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • Speaker Placement for Home Theater
Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/Audiophile Getting Started • Beginner's Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides • Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening
Took a quick look in the users manual, and it looks like the tape out jacks will not output audio coming from Digital inputs. Try using one of the RCA inputs on the rear of the unit, I imagine everything will start working correctly. To get proper sound through the EQ for your PS4, you'll need a DAC to convert the PS4 optical to RCA. Fiio makes an excellent unit for the money ($20 bucks), worked like a charm in my setup. Link below:
FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter
As for the turntable, you'll need a phono pre-amp. This will connect between your turntable, and the receiver. As the receiver does not have a phono stage, the pre-amp is required to both boost the signal from the the turntable as well as applying the RIAA EQ (Wiki link if you're interested) required to make it sound correct. The only one I have ever used and can vouch for was an NAD unit, but there are cheaper options available as well.
NAD PP 2e Phono Preamplifier
S/PDIF (Sony/Philips Digital Interface) is a type of digital audio interconnect used in consumer audio equipment to output audio over reasonably short distances. The signal is transmitted over either a coaxial cable with RCA connectors or a fibre optic cable with TOSLINK connectors. S/PDIF interconnects components in home theatres and other digital high-fidelity systems.
Can we assume you are looking for an Optical Cable? Typically labeled on the TV as - Digital Audio Out.
How much money do you have to spend?
You can get an Optical/Coaxial DAC on AMAZON for about $20 (24b/192k).
But if you want to connect the Computer to the same system, you will need to use Analog Connections, or you will need a USB-PC DAC. That can be the same DAC as for the TV, or it can be a separate USB-only DAC.
USB Only DAC -
Optical/Coaxial/USB/Headphone DAC -
What options are available to you will depend on your BUDGET?
No problem! This guy here will do the trick.
Try it and see if you like it. Should be fine for stereo. You say it is temporary. 3.5mm will allow you to control volume from TV. If you don't want that get this.
Try looking used first.
AV Receivers: If using with a TV, for the HDMI inputs, even with just 2 speakers.
Denon AVR-S540BT $150 refurbished 5.2 with optical input DAC and HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0B for 4K video switching.
Denon AVRX1400 $250 refurbished 7.2/5.2.2 adds the excellent Audyssey MultEQ XT room correction / speaker calibration.
Entry level bare bones $90 refurbished YAMAHAR-S202. Add a $20 FiiO D3 DAC if you need and if adding a subwoofer, use speaker wire to a powered subwoofer with speaker level inputs.
Better $200 Onkyo TX-8220. Built in optical input DAC and subwoofer out RCA jack.
SMSL SA50 $65, Dayton Audio DTA-120BT $75, Micca OriGain $80 or $100 with USB input DAC.
Franklin Audio IA150 $130, Dayton Audio rebrand, try the $10 off coupon.
Audio Source AMP100VS $120.
What brand and model surround speakers?
TV Digital Audio Optical output to FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter Optical/Coaxial DAC to RCA or 3.5mm out to speakers.
+ Digital Optical Audio Cable Toslink Cables
PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable
Fiio D3 (D03 K) Digital to Analog Audio Coverter with Extreme Audio Optical TOSlink Cable and RCA to RCA Audio Cable
Apple TV: Optical DAC to RCA. FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter $20.
Airport Express has the option to use the same port as either analog 3.5mm or mini-toslink.
Are you sure the TV has a Headphone Out (3.5mm) or a Analog Audio Out (RCA or 3.5mm) because that is very rare on modern TVs.
However, most TVs do have an Digital Audio Optical Output, and for this you simple need a very basic DAC (digital to analog converter).
You can get these on Amazon for about $20 to $25 -
FIIO D3 24b/192k Optical/Coacial DAC - $20 to $25 -
There are many other DACs on Amazon you could consider.
Then you need an Optical Cable with the appropriate connectors. These you can by at Walmart.
There are two type of Optical Cables -
Square Optical to Square Optical -
Square Optical to 3.5mm Optical -
Get which ever type is appropriate to your needs.
So, for $28 to $33 plus postage, you are up and running.
Now, we come to a problem, because the Optical Out is digital, there is no way to control the volume. That is, the Digital Out will not respond to the TV Volume Control.
So, what ever your external Amp happens to be, it must have a Remote Volume Control.
This can be Amp and Speakers, or a Powered Speaker.
If you have the money, this speaker solves all your problems. It has Bluetooth, Optical In, Analog RCA In, and Remote Control -
Edifier R2000DB Active Speaker - $250/pr - Cherry and Black -
You can find reviews and user comments on all these products on YouTube.
As far as separate Amp and Speakers, that come to roughly the same money -
Yamaha RS202 Receiver, Bluetooth, 100w/ch - $150 -
You would need the FIIO D3 DAC because this amp does not have a built in DAC. That would bring the Total to about $175.
Then speakers, how good do you imagine you need?
In a slightly larger speaker, the Yamaha NS-6490 Sealed Bookshelf Speaker with 8" Bass Driver.
Z Reviews on YouTube reviewed this speaker very favorably.
Here is a package deal that includes the Yamaha RS202 and the Yamaha NS-6490 for $279 -
Again, the RS-202 does not have a Digital Input, so you would still need the FIIO D3 DAC.
If your TV actually does have Analog Audio Out, very likely in the Menus, the output can be set to Fixed or Variable. If you can set it to Variable, it will respond to the TV Volume Control, and all you need are some common Self-Powered Computer Speakers.
If the Output is a Headphone Output, that will also drive external Self-Powered Speakers and will respond to the TV Volume Control.
But as I said, Analog Outputs are very rare in a modern TV.
That should give you something to think about.
Okay, as far as DAC/amps go, if I do end up needing one do you think one of these would work, or is there another cheap alternative (preferably under $25)? Also, I'm more worried about needing one for the PS4, not so much as PC/Laptop, because I'd be plugging directly into the Dualshock controller. Who knows, it might sound great, but yeah.
Would this work with an optical audio cable?
Yes, but I think we need to get on the same page here. Your TV has a Toslink digital output - you're wanting to convert that digital to analog with a DAC. That analog signal needs to go somewhere, like powered speakers or a receiver.
In that case TV Digital Out -> DAC -> Stereo or Active Speakers
You also want a USB input for your phone. Is that for charging your phone? Most phones don't integrate via USB, they do wirelessly via Bluetooth or Airplay. If your stereo doesn't support either, you'll need a device that you can connect to via bluetooth, and send that signal to your stereo or active speakers.
In that case Phone's Bluetooth -> Bluetooth Receiver -> Stereo or Active Speakers
Sort of. The TV only has a Optical Digital Audio Out, that means you need a Digital to Analog Convert (DAC). While these can be very expensive, they can also be very cheap -
Connect an Optical Cable from the TV to the DAC, the connect RCA Cables (RCA to RCA or perhaps RCA to 3.5mm Stereo) to the Speakers.
Of you search AMAZON for "Digital to Analog Convert" you will find many to choose from -
Here's a link to the one he's talking about. I used to do the same thing.
Fulla 2 with 40mW @ 300 Ohm load can drive the HD6XX.
However, the impedance spike in the bass region makes it advisable to get a beefier amplifier like the Magni 2 if you can afford it. In case your PC has an optical output you can pair the Magni 2 with something like the FiiO D03K.
Soundbars are typically meant to be used with a TV. Normally you would connect everything to the TV via HDMI or whatever and then just run the audio output (usually optical) into the soundbar.
Because you are using a monitor which does not have the receiver capabilities like a TV does, you are going to have to get creative. It sound like that soundbar only has digital inputs. So you need to always use digital outputs. There's no such thing as a 3.5mm to HDMI cable. 3.5mm is an analog output and HDMI is digital. There's need to be a conversion that happens but usually it happens the other way. Digital > Analog.
I would recommend staying away from soundbars. Unless you are willing to drop about $1000 on one, it's going to sound like above average TV speakers. And like i mentioned about, they are designed to be used with an actual TV.
Get yourself a pair of powered speakers. Even computer speakers would probably work better for you. Anything with multiple inputs. Something like the Audioengine A2+ would work great. Just plug your computer into the USB and get a small DAC like the Fiio D03K to convert the optical on the PS4 to analog so you can connect it directly to the other input.
What country are you in, and do you think you can handle a price tag of $280? If these are not dedicated to a desktop, then there is no point in getting Desktop speakers.
Check this Reddit thread -
FIIO DAC Optical/Coaxial - $20 -
Yamaha RS202, 100w/ch Stereo Receiver with Bluetooth - $129 -
Yamaha NS-6490, 8", 3-way Sealed Speakers - $130/pr -
That is a solid system with great speakers at a stunningly low price. You simply will not do better than that for only $280.
But the speakers are not for Near-Field Desktop listening, they are meant of a lounge/living room where you sit more than 3 feet away. Probably 8ft or more would be better.
What are the Optical Inputs for?
The Yamaha RS700 AM/FM Stereo Receiver, 100w/ch, MM Phono-In, Sub-Out ($499) has Jumpers between the Pre-Amp and Main-In connections. You can remove the jumpers and insert a Graphic Equalizer.
The only thing missing is the Digital Inputs, and that can be bought separately for between $20 and about $150 from Amazon. It depends on how much you want to spend, and what specifically you are doing with the Digital Inputs.
This DAC has Optical/Coaxial/USB-PC -
If you want Network Streaming, Bluetooth, Digital Inputs, but no Pre-Amp Out/Main-In, then the Yamaha RN602 Network Stereo Receiver is worth a look - ($599) -
If you want more focused responses, you have to give us a working BUDGET?
The Mackies are Active Speakers, they have their own amps, that makes it unlikely, though not impossible, that you could use them with an AVR. These are Multimedia/PC speakers. And whether you can use them depends on the AVR you get. If it is one of the better ones that has Pre-Amp outputs, you could use the Mackie with that, but you are wasting the amps since you would be using the Amp in the Mackie.
I would suggest you start with a Stereo System, until such time as you can buy a complete Home Cinema Surround system. Then when you have an AVR and 5.1 Surround Speakers, move the Stereo to your computer, assuming you have room.
But I think you might be trying to do too much with too little. The Mackie would make good computer speakers, but confine them to that purpose. Don't try to cobble them into a Home Theater system, because it will not work well. It might work, just not well.
Depending on the outputs of the TV, you might need to spend an additional $25 for a small Optical/Coaxial DAC to translate the Digital Audio Out of the TV to a signal that the Stereo Amp can use.
Depending on money, and circumstances, don't cheap out on a Home Cinema system. Generally speaking you want an AVR of at least $500. And a full 5.1 set of speakers would tend to run in the $1000 to $1500 range. So, you are looking at a $1500 to $2000 expenditure here. Though it can be done for less, and again I don't know the exact circumstances, but you can have a decent stereo with speakers, for about $280 (with DAC) up to about $360. If you want to add a Subwoofer at a later date, then that is going to run between about $125 and about $500 depending on how far you want to take it.
I suggest you focus on the one thing that you want do to now - Computer speakers OR Stereo OR AVR - and not try to make one system do all those things.
If you have a Laptop Computer rather than a Desktop Computer, and that Laptop has Bluetooth capability, then the Yamaha RS202 and the Cambridge Speaker could serve both your TV/Movie watching and your computer speaker (via Bluetooth).
But again, I think you need to focus on THE ONE THING you want to do now, and leave the rest for later.
And they have good bass for a 5" Computer Speaker. The Stereo Receiver and both the Cambridge SX50 and the Cambridge SX60 have deeper bass than the Mackie.
If you look at the link I provided, the Cambridge SX50 (5.25") are rated at 50Hz - 22 kHz which is typical of a 5.25" speaker. The Cambridge SX60 are 6.5" speaker and rated at 41 - 22kHz which again is typical of a 6.5" speaker.
The Mackie's while certainly good, are what they are, you can check the specs on them at the links I provided.
The SWAN speakers, if you follow the Amazon Link provide, and scroll way down on the page, response from 38hz up to 20hz, with the Sub covering 38hz to 120hz, and the Front speaker covering 120hz up to 20khz.
As I said, 38hz is not Subwoofer territory, that's will in the range of a standard woofer. But it is pretty deep as Stereo Speakers go.
That would be my preferred choice as well. Let me layout a potential system at minimal cost -
Yamaha NS-6490, 8", 3-way Sealed Speakers - $130/pr -
Combination, Yamaha RS202+Yamaha NS-6490 = $259 -
You absolutely will not do better than that for $280.
The Bluetooth aspect allows you to broadcast music from your Smart Devices like Smart Phone, Pads/Tablets, and some Computers to the Stereo system to listen to music.
If you don't care about volume control, and plan to adjust it using another device you already have, I use this on my setup with my computer. It works fine and is cheap.
Your TV should have optical out, connect that to this: [link] and run RCA to the lepai
Looking to buy a DAC for my Behringer Truth B2030A's in hopes of getting rid of all static and other unnecessary noises I get especially while playing games.
Currently the B2030A's are connected to my Soundblaster Z with a 2x XLR to 3.5mm cord. Now the plan is to connect the DAC to the Optical output of the SBZ so the DAC should have an Optical input. I understood that USB could still carry on some inteference so I think Optical is the choice for me.
I've been looking at two different kinds of DACs:
Bigger and better DACs like the Schiit Modi 2 Uber.
Then there are the DACs which basically only convert from Optical / Coaxial to analog RCA like the FiiO TAISHAN-D03K
I'm wondering if the FiiO is just fine for what I'm doing or if it's worth it to spend 150+ for something like the Schiit Modi 2.
Edit: Looking at the D1 Premium 24-Bit DAC for 169€. Seems exactly what I need. It even has a volume knob which most DACs at that price range don't have and it's going to be really useful for me. Probably going to order that today if no one has better suggestions.
Many options, actually
[link] : fiio Taishan
HifimeDiy sabreDAC : [link]
What about that one and using my laptop's optical out?
$200 is going to be very difficult if you want something of even the most marginal quality.
Accessories4Less has some B-Stock Items are nice discounts -
You will have a hard time going less than this Receiver (AM/FM) -
It can also be purchase in A-Stock at $150 -
The New 202 version of this amp, also has BLUETOOTH. If we assume her new phone has Bluetooth capability, then she should be able to Stream directly from her phone (assuming a smart phone) to the Receiver. The range is limited to about 30ft.
As itemized below, it is also possible to use a direct wired connection between the RS202 Receiver and the Phone.
Accessories4Less also has speakers. It is not clear the extent of the job these speakers need to do but these are all probably workable -
The above Yamaha Speakers are 8" so they are a bit larger than the others.
The above Yamaha speakers are 4" and are probably fine for very basic general listening, but they are not going to have much bass.
The above are 6.5" speakers from Boston Acoustics, and in general they are probably fine. Performance somewhere between the 8" and the 4".
From Accessories4Less, the Yamaha RS202 Receiver and the Boston Acoustic Speakers, the total comes to about $250.
To connect the IPhone or any smart phone or MP3 Player or computer, or similar to the system, simply use a cable that converts the headphone connector, typically a 2.5mm or more commonly a 3.5mm Stereo connect that adapts to 2 mono RCA connectors. The cable length according to you needs.
This actually a common cable and your can find variations of it from many source - Radio Shack, Walmart, Home Depot, Menards, and others. Basically 3.5mm Stereo on one end and 2xRCA on the other.
If you think she might want to use the system to watch TV and Movies, then to connect most TVs to a Stereo, you need a basic DAC (digital to analog converter) which can run about $25 on Amazon for a single purpose DAC.
If your budget really is rock bottom, then the Yamaha RS202 Receiver with the Boston Acoustic speakers is about the closest you can come to what you desire. From what I read, the Yamaha RS202 has Bluetooth so it can receive directly from a Bluetooth device, and most modern phones are Bluetooth capable.
If this is a NEW iPhone, then they no longer have a headphone out. In this case, you might still be able to use a hard wired connection but you would need a Apple proprietary cable.
If the new phone is an Android Phone then they will have a headphone out, and the simple cable linked above will work.
But remember both are very very likely to have Bluetooth capability
Bose are OK, but they are considered overpriced. Most people simply go for Bose because it is a name the recognize, and they assume the price must be an indication of quality. But Bose are overpriced, and generally not recommended.
Any thoughts on those suggestions?
yes of course :P
The most recommended "bang for buck option" out there is the FiiO D03K you can get a cable with an inline remote to control the volume.
If you use this set of headphones exclusively for watchign movies I would recommend you take a look at Sennheiser's RF-series of wireless entertainment headphones: Sennheisr RS195
If you just need to switch between PC and Xbox, a DAC with optical and USB inputs like a Modi 2 Uber would work. For a mixer you'll need to run your Xbox optical out into a DAC and then that and the PC line out into a mixer and then into an amp. For open options with good bass Phillips Fidelio X2, Hifiman HE-400i, or Beyerdynamic DT 1990. Open headphones are going to lack the really deep bass so you might want to consider closed or semi-open headphones that are still good for gaming like T50RP mods (ZMF or Cascadia) or Fostex TH600/THX00
You can purchuse a few Fiio D3 DACs to convert SPDIF to RCA. With a little more budget, I would be looking at an integrated amplifier or new receiver.
You just need to add a small DAC to the recommended Micca speakers you find in the OP. [link]
Yes, It's plugged in the Phones jack
It's the Fiio D3 Digital to Analog Audio Converter
I wanted to use it to make "Discord" in a diffrent line the[3/4]
I'm planning to start streaming and make youtube videos the mic is the Audio-Technica AT2035
yes, the optical out is going to the converter and the converter goes to line 3/4, the analog out goes to line 5/6 in the mixer
I Bought the mixer and the Fiio D3 Digital to Analog Audio Converter so I can split my voip audio from my microphone audio from my computer audio so I will end with three tracks of audio
> I am looking at the SMSL M3
This DAC amp is not powerful enough for the DT990 250Ohm. From the spec sheet of your link:
The DT990 is 96dB/mW and has a minimum impedance of 250 Ohm.
Target Headphone Loudness 110,0 dB Sound Pressure Level
Can you get the Monoprice Desktop Amplifier in Aussieland?
Combine that one with a FiiO D03K and you are golden.
JBL LSR308s. They're powered so you don't need an amp. Add an optical dac such as this [link] if you have that output.
The cable you posted will not change the issue you have.
The issue is the following:
The Vali is connected to the motherboard output and the speakers are connected to the front panel output of the motherboard. This means both output devices are connected to the same source device (Realtek chipset) and will only show up one in the windows sound manager.
A USB headset is connected and powered by the USB root HUB of your PC and therefore shows up as a separate output device on your PC (it also runs on different drivers etc).
If you want different output devices for your PC you must but a DAC for the Vali. A DAC will take over the duties of decoding the digital bit stream for the amplifier and show up as a separate device in the sound manager. The Schiit Modi 2 would be the logical choice (you'd also need an RCA connector cable from the Modi to the vali.
Does your PC have an optical output?
If the answer is yes and you want a cheaper solution than the Modi2. Go for a FiiO d03K and a set of good but inexpensive Monoprice Interconnects
You need a DAC, something like this should work:
That's way cheaper than here. It's 33,90 eur (US$37) in Germany and 40 eur (US$43,50) in The Netherlands :(
There are two easy ways to handle this.
You can buy a Optical/Coax to Analog converter box, which will output to RCA, for example a Fiio D03K. You can connect your ps4 directly to this box via Optical SPDIF or you can use the Optical out on your television.
You can by a HDMI audio extractor that will also give you RCA.
Portable amp: Fiio E12 is your best bet.
Desktop amp: Magni 2
Desktop dac: Modi 2
Desktop dac cheapo edition: D03k Requires optical or coaxial output, though.
The secret is that the amp is much more important than the dac. In blind tests, I doubt most people could tell you which is the "better" dac (assuming that it's not full of feedback like one right out of a laptop or cheap cell phones). The amp is more important, and most people would pass blind tests of a well amped vs poorly amped HE-400i.
edit: Some changes
> Will I see a big decline in sound quality if I use a cheaper dac?
It's unlikely. You could perhaps consider using this to connect your telly to your speakers.
> I've read much stating that if you just go for the 2 nice monitors at first, they go low enough such that you don't need a sub.
There are a lot of variables at play here. Yes, reasonably high quality studio monitors will hit as low as you practically need for most music, but only if you're listening to them from <10 feet away and aren't expecting THX volume levels.
> I'm not looking to shake the house or anything. I just want a full sound range for music.
Subs don't have to "shake the house", that depends on how you integrate them. To me, they are well integrated when I can't really tell where my speakers end and my subs begin (granted that's different for movies where the shake is part of the effect).
And as for "full sound range", in reality you're missing only the lowest bass octave (20-40hz) without a sub. Those notes aren't even that common in music outside of huge organs and EDM. They are more necessary for action films. But that's not the only benefit of buying one. Low frequencies are the most demanding on your speakers, so if you can ease the workload of your fronts by adding a sub, you can often get more output with lower distortion.
In sum: for $500 I would stick to 2 channel. I think that getting a $250 set of JBL LSR305s + saving for their matching $400 sub makes more sense than buying a more expensive set of monitors. I think many here would agree with me.
It is my impression that you're watching/listening at your desk, so I doubt you'll need a remote. This interface will control volume and select your sources. It is sometimes the case that the built in analog converters of your PC and blu-ray player just aren't very good. If you hear hissing then I suggest you try a cheap external DAC such as this fiio.
That DAC will get one or more of the inputs and you will still use the preamp to control volume.
what about LSR308 are they good too? will I benefit somehow?
I am thinking about getting [link] for my spdif pc
I can't help you with wireless, but the following products will get your headphones working with the TV:
First identify if your TV supports analog out. If so, use that, if not, use the following product to take the optical (digital) out and turn it in to an analog signal:
Now that you have an analog signal, you just amplify it to drive your headphones. There's a million headphone amps on the market, but lots of people like this one:
Really you could get the cheap fio one of you don't need any bells or whistles:
Smsl makes one that has an analog volume control and a headphone jack: [link]
FiiO D03 converts optical to Analog.
Cool man, that's good to hear. What is this thing?
Hello, get yourself a USB D/A converter, ideally something like this - (or this if you're on a budget), and connect them to your computer through it.
I use this and it works pretty good.
If all else fails, get one of these.
You can use any earbud type headphones with this adapter or this one with a pair of these cables.
There is no volume control on these adapters, so your TV has to control the volume (not sure if it does). I know my very old Bravia can't from the optical jack.
Sure can. Get a little fiio d03k and a cable like this and you're set.
An externally powered USB DAC will do just as well. You can power any one externally by using a powered HUB.
My suggestion is the Fiio E10 / E10K (plus an externally powered hub and a 3,5mm->RCA adaptor) if you really need a volume knob or a D03K if you can live without it.
That's the wrong thing, you need this and an optical audio cable.
You can use something like this, which is what I use, and it works quite well.
This is what I use and it works pretty well. It can be powered by usb so I have it plugged into a usb port on my tv.
You could get one of these:
It doesn't have a USB input, and so wouldn't obsolete the Outlaw's DAC.
I like the klipsch 2.1 for desktop use. Enough bass for an enjoyable experience, I found the sound improved significantly when I added a cheap external DAC like this one.
I am admittedly no expert but I had a similar problem a few days ago and installed one of these: [link]. Working great so far, and quality is good.