What is Reddit's opinion of Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease, 20g Syringe?

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I used some Teflon grease on the plastic parts under the L&R mouse click buttons that were rubbing. Solved it for me. Was able to do it without disassembling the the mouse.

You are welcome, this stuff is insane for high speeds, high loads. The bearing doesn’t spin free forever anymore but…. I definitely feel a difference in downhill coasting on skateboard and bicycles.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_92H72WR8KS6DM702A7E5

No, please only use either dielectric grease or the more expensive Teflon grease.

This one is a bit pricey but this might work better so you can “inject” it where you want without having to desolder.

I have a PUC and found that using grease similar to what you would use on stabilizers on a mechanical keyboard helped a ton. M1 and M2 have plastic stems underneath that once greased eliminated any weird creaks for me. For reference this is what I bought off Amazon. Link

For lubing stabilizers, I see that dielectric grease is recommended for the wire, and teflon grease for the plastic. My issue is that being in Canada the common recommended teflon runs for about $43 on Amazon. Are there any cheaper alternatives? Can I just use dielectric for both parts or would it be way too thick for the plastic bits?

Just stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=57563159993&dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAn8nuBRCzARIsAJcdIfNPOruNKKQn6_x2lnWydPZhQYU0iGAf611XHL5JNZzrI9QAV-ywZQQaAtgpEALw_wcB&hvadid=274872390383&... sorry I don’t know how to do blue text

Lube makes the board quieter bar none. I used WASD keyboards lube the first time around, but I'm not too happy with it, so I'm going to use another lube next with the board, (this)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1] one, once I get all the way fed up with the performance on the WASD lube. I have hope for it yet. But either way lubed and ringed is the way to go for a topre board, the thocks are the most satisfying thing ever.

I use this PTFE teflon lubricant. It's one of the slipperiest substances on earth, Dupont usually costs 2 - 3 x as much as this stuff I use

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It comes in a handy syringe which makes it really easy to use small quantities. And youi get a lifetime supply.

I usually end up getting a TusqXL nut which is made from a teflon impregnated plastic. But I use this stuff otherwise.

I completely forgot about that. You can get a tube of bike chain grease for cheap and the stuff is amazingly smooth and last awhile. In fact I use that everytime I disassemble to clean. Any other time I just use Rem Oil. It's too much of a pain in the ass to disassemble every time I want to lube. I use fluoro though. A tube will last you forever.

https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472316624&sr=8-1&keywords=fluoro+grease

You could use gun oil for that part. If you don't have anything like that around, use motor oil and see if it starts to cure your problem. If the motor oil works, order something like this https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92 and change it out when it arrives.

Hey, saw you mention your backspace and another key or so (all with stabilizers) are squeaking. You could try putting a little finish line extreme flouro on the stabilizers. Link: Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease, 20g Syringe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_YkghxbJV0AH0C

If you're like me, all this talk about replacing stabs/stabilizers wasn't clear and the wiki is a mess to sort through.

Watch this video on how to remove plate mount stabs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJVsk29IJ5g

Watch this video for direction on clipping (if necessary), lubing, and bandaid modding (I personally think it's not worth doing): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cD5Zj-ZgMLA

You'll need Cherry Plate Mounted (also called PCB Mount) stabilizers for the Ctrl.Specifically need: one 6.25u stabilizer (for the spacebar) and four 2u stabilizers (for the 2 shifts, enter, and backspace keys).

I ordered stabs from Zeal because they are apparently highly regarded: https://zealpc.net/products/authentic-cherry-pcb-plate-mount-gold-plated-stabilizers

You will need lube for the plastic housing: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92

You will need dielectric grease for the stabilizing bars that go into the housing: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000AL2RI2/

Replace with whatever your preferred lubing method is.

Good luck!

Thanks, /u/defaultfieldstate for reminding me! I got distracted...

Specs:

• Case: KBDFANS 5° 60% Case
  
• PCB: CannonKeys Instant60
  
• Plate: KBDFANS Brass 60% plate
  
• Switches: Zeal's Aqua Zilents 67g (currently unlubed)
  
• Keycaps: GMK Analog Dreams by /u/pwade3
  
• Stabilizers: Zeal Transparent Gold Plated PCB Mount Screw-in Stabilizers V2
  
• Cable: Purple Monoprice AtlasFlex Series Durable USB 2.0 Type-C to Type-A
  
• Stab Lube 1: Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease
  
• Stab Lube 2: Super Lube 91003 Silicone High-Dielectric Grease

I'm breaking the switches in right now but I do have Tribosys 3203 for the switches.

It's also worth noting that instead of doing the bandaid mod I went with the 3M Adhesive Non-Slip Silicone Grips and let me tell you something. This. Changes. The. Meta.

I think I've remembered everything... feel free to ask any followup questions.

Nope. This one. https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=finish+line+fluoro+grease&qid=1600125341&sprefix=finish+line+flu&sr=8-3

You need dielectric grease for metal-on-plastic (aka on the wire ends), and This stuff for plastic-on-plastic contact. 👍

It cost almost the triple, https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_V6DHP3RQ2VJHKX6XSSB5 This one could be an option?

That's what I use to lube my stabs, it works well man.

Btw, it's a lot cheaper on amazon! https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92/

Hi. Italian here!

• Recently i bought Finish Line Extreme Fluoro for stabs after a long research, is the fastest that you can get and is not bad.

• CandyKeys has SuperLube! Is also cheap for europe, i did a test, if you get 10 superlubes is 7 euro + 4 euro DHL shipping, 11 euro for Italy is pretty good imho

• Also SwitchTop has SuperLube, shipping is something like 8$ to Italy but if you need something other from the shop, may be worth it, otherwise CandyKeys is better!

• Krytox/Teflon formula from Pexon

From what i saw, Krytox is usually better, not sure what is Pexon formula but the original Krytox is used to be better but is also pretty expensive, especially to Italy, I would say just go for that Finish Line on Amazon or SuperLube from CandyKeys and you will be fine :)

Ciao!

Unfortunately due to the way the Viper Ultimate is designed this is most likely an issue with almost every copy to some degree. There are two plastic alignment pins that presumably reduce wobble on the buttons that are prone to rubbing against their guides (also plastic) that produce the creaking noise and friction. It's especially obvious if you press down on the buttons from the outside of the button instead of near the center.

On the plus side it's pretty easily and cheaply fixable if you're comfortable opening the mouse. If you are open to that you'll really need 3 things to get rid of this issue:

1. Replacement feet (i.e. corepads), unless you're reeeeeaaallly careful
2. Torx 6 screw driver
3. Plastic friendly lube, like this

Basically you just remove the feet, unscrew the screws, then just pop the shell apart. After that you can apply the lube to the two pins in the picture link below. Once you've done that, just put the shell back on and reapply the screws and feet.

http://imgur.com/gallery/jXK6Okg

Obviously this is less than ideal, but in my opinion is entirely worth doing if you plan on keeping the mouse. It makes a night and day difference in both removing the creak and improving the feel of the clicks on the mouse.

The squeak you hear is the right stab stem rubbing against the housing, or the stab wire scraping the wall of the stem. I'm betting on the stab wire would be the problem. To solve that, your best option is to find a fine injection syringe like this: https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92 and use it on the stem where the wire sits. It's not exactly an easy task, but it may be a better option than desoldering everything. Be sure to read the reviews on that link if you go that route.

>Probably teflon grease. Amazon does not sell the kind of lubricant used for switches. That said, Krytox 205g0 isn't all that much more expensive, and can be used for more than just lubing stabilizer housing."

Probably teflon grease. Amazon does not sell the kind of lubricant used for switches. That said, Krytox 205g0 isn't all that much more expensive, and can be used for more than just lubing stabilizer housing.

I use this stuff. Zero complaints. Not good for springs though. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Jn9DCbV9TRYWD

So I'm thinking of building my own keyboard, although it won't really be the whole building experience because I won't be soldering. I want to get an XD75RE because it uses a hotswappable pcb and an ortholinear layout (which I really want to try out). I have a few questions:

Are there any other PCBs that have hotswappable sockets? (That isn't the GK64 because I don't like the non-standard stagger, ortho is fine but a completely new stagger that isn't used on any other keyboard.

Can I buy any 60% keyboard case for the XD75RE? I want to see if I can get a wooden case. The reason why I am asking this is because on the product page it says that it's possible to use any GH60 case with the pcb in using their shim conditions and I don't know what that means.

I want to have the layout that has the longer spacebar keys but this is the only plate that I found: https://kprepublic.com/collections/xd75re/products/stainless-steel-plate-for-xd75re-60-custom-keyboard-mechanical-keyboard-plate-support-xd75re and I'm pretty sure that this is only for the only 1u layout. Is there another plate available that I haven't found yet?

Will this keycap set be fine for the XD75RE? https://novelkeys.xyz/products/blue-grey-xda-keycap-set If not, can you recommend a different keycap set for it?

What kind of cable does the XD75RE need? It doesn't specify it on the product page.

Do I need stabilizers if I find a plate for the longer spacebar layout? If so will a standard cherry stabilizer kit cover it? And is this lube fine for stabilizers? (I will probably buy it anyways for future builds) https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92

Is there anything I'm missing? I already know I need a case, plate, pcb, stabilizers (if necessary), lube for stabilizers, switches (I already have a bunch of loose switches), keycaps, and a cable? Sorry if this was really long, this is my first time buying custom parts and I don't want to mess it up.

I'm not too savvy on the lube types. The one that I have is this one. I read the reviews and quite a few mention lubing KBs or lubing ABS plastic, etc.

Here's an image from geekhack in an old thread showing where to put the lube. The amount of lube you apply to each slider is very minimal, think like an apple seed, I usually just place it on the bottom corner and let the slider lube itself in use.

http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92